CN111820490B - A production method of trousers cutting, returning and ironing - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for making trousers by cutting, ironing and ironing, which comprises the following steps: (1) Cutting the front piece of trousers, namely cutting the inner and outer side seams of the trouser legs in a cloth folding mode in a wool mode, and opening the small crotch for cutting; (2) Cutting the rear trousers pieces by a front trousers piece stacking cutting method; (3) The bottom blocking cloth and the knee circumference are cut into silk depending on the front and the rear trousers pieces, and are fixed on the front trousers pieces and the rear trousers pieces by adopting a selvage raising needle method and a binding process to form a protective layer; and (4) ironing the front trouser piece and the rear trouser piece. Wherein, the front trouser pieces are ironed by pulling: the front fly of the trousers and the hip circumference of the side edges are moved in, the knees of the trousers are pulled out from inside to outside, the trend of the iron is S-line, and the front fly and the hip circumference are pressed in and out at the two sides of the line of pressing; pulling and ironing the rear trousers piece: setting the drawing distance of the rear crotch part, folding the front trouser piece and the rear trouser piece along the line of straightening and sewing, and ironing the front trouser piece and the rear trouser piece. The method of the invention improves the drawing and cutting efficiency and also improves the height conformity of the trousers pieces to the body shape.

Description

A production method of trousers cutting, returning and ironing

technical field

The invention relates to a trousers cutting and manufacturing method, in particular to a trousers cutting, returning and ironing manufacturing method.

Background technique

Although the traditional industrial production has solved the problem of mass production, there are still deficiencies in conforming to the personalized human body. For example, the fit degree of the crotch, buttocks, waist and other parts is not high, and it is difficult for the clothes purchased by consumers to fully fit the body. .

In the prior art, some trousers manufacturers process the three-dimensional shape of the trousers through forming and setting machines, but the disadvantage is that the uniform shape and unified shaping standards cannot realize the differences in individual body shapes.

Contents of the invention

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a trousers cutting, return and ironing production method, which solves the problem of low individual fit in the existing production process, and designs the shape and size of trousers according to the individual, adopts folding and stacking The method is implemented together, which improves the cutting efficiency of trousers advanced customization and reduces the cost.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a method for trousers cutting and ironing, the method comprising:

(1) The front trousers are cut, and the inner and outer side seams of the trousers are cut in the way of fabric folding, and the crotch is opened to cut;

(2) Cutting of the back trousers, relying on the method of stacking the front trousers to cut;

(3) The bottom cloth and the knee circumference are cut into silk by relying on the front and rear trousers, and are fixed on the front and back trousers to form a protective layer by warping stitches and over-edge technology;

(4) Iron the front trousers and the back trousers.

Among them, the ironing of the front trousers: the placket and side hips of the trousers should be folded in, and the knees of the trousers should be pulled out from the inside out. Ironing, fold the front trousers along the straight seam and iron the curvature of the front trousers and straighten the seam; iron the back trousers back: set the elongation of the back crotch to 8.0-10 cm, according to the convexity of the buttocks The degree of protrusion can be set, the small protrusion can be selected as 8.0 cm, and the large protrusion can be selected as 10 cm. After ironing, the curvature of the trousers is straightened.

Preferably, in step (1), the cutting of the front trousers includes:

(1.1) Determine the trouser length, hip circumference, waist circumference and trouser opening size, select the fabric, the long side of the fabric = trouser length -4.0+4.0+1.0, the wide side of the fabric = hip circumference/4+4.0+2.0cm, fold the fabric in half The wide sides of the

(1.2) Draw the front crotch: take one end point of the long side of the fabric as the trouser length point a, and set the small crotch point b on the long side, ab=hip circumference/4+1.0+1.0cm, on the front trousers Set crotch point c and placket point d, cb is perpendicular to the long side, and cb=half hip circumference/10-1.0cm, cd is parallel to ba, and cd=half hip circumference/10+2.5cm, connect bd, Make a vertical line from point c to bd and intersect at point e, divide the length of ce into three equal parts, and connect the third point on ce closest to point e with the small crotch point b and the placket point d with an arc to form Small crotch arc, extend cd and wide side at point f, set point f as straight crotch point, arc connection point f, one-third point of line segment ce, d, b constitute the front crotch arc;

(1.3) Draw the trousers line: the other endpoint of the long side of the cloth is set as the outer starting point h of the trousers length, and the inner starting point g of the trousers length is set on the wide side, gh=1/2 of the wide side of the cloth-pants opening/ 2cm, set the outer point i of the hem on the long side, set the inner point j of the hem on the front trousers, ji is perpendicular to the long side, hi and gj are the folded hems of the front trousers, connect jb, and set point k is the middle crotch point, point k1 is the trouser leg tightening point, point k1 is the midpoint of the line segment jb, kk1 is set to be perpendicular to the line segment jb, the arc connects b, k1, j, and g to form the trouser leg line, and the double layer is cut along this line For fabric, cut the front crotch and cut a layer of fabric along the arc of the front crotch;

(1.4) Draw the pleats of the front trousers: draw the pleats on the waist before unfolding the trousers, set pleats 1 and 2, the width of pleats 1 = hips/4-waist/4-2.5cm, pleats 2 Width=hip circumference/4-waist circumference/4-3.0cm, the length w of wool-like trousers is the end point corresponding to point a and uncut when folded in half, and the distance between one end point of the pocket line and the length of wool-like trousers w is set distance and the length of the pocket line to determine where the pocket line intersects with the long edge or leg line.

Preferably, said hi=gj, and the lengths of hi and gj are 3.5-4.0 cm. Among them, the thin material can be 3.5 cm, and the thick material can be 4.0 cm.

Preferably, in step (2), the cutting of the rear trousers includes:

(2.1) Draw the rear crotch: with the help of front pant piece cutting, set the back waist point n, wn is the back piece waist size, wn=waist/4+4.0cm, set the back warp point n1, n1n and the wide side Vertical, n1n=(hip circumference/20-2.0)/2, set the base point m of the rear hip circumference at one third of point c on the line segment fc, m is the base point of the rear hip circumference, mm1 and width The sides are parallel, mm1 is the difference between the hips of the rear trousers and the front trousers, and the connecting line segment n1m1 is extended to produce an intersection with the front rail line, and continues to extend a certain distance to the crotch point l, the distance=( Hip circumference/20)/2, lo line segment is drawn upward on crotch drop point l, o point is the rear crotch height point, and lo is parallel to the wide side, lo=hip circumference/10cm, set o1 point at line segment om1 is connected with the crotch drop point l to form the corner line lo1, which divides the corner line lo1 into thirds, and the third point close to the crotch drop point l is the crotch bend tangent point, which connects m1, crotch bend cut The point and o point form the radian of the rear crotch, which is used for cutting the rear crotch;

(2.2) Draw the crotch seam: with the help of the front trousers, set the outer starting point r of the rear trousers length, the inner starting point s of the rear trousers length, the outer point p of the rear hem, and the inner point q of the rear hem, rp and sq are used for widening Back trouser opening, rp=sq=pants opening/2+2.0-folded wool sample front trouser opening cm, the folded wool sample front trouser opening=1/2-gh of the wide side of cloth, pq and rs are It is used for hemming, which is equal to the length of the folded trousers edge of the front trousers. The rear middle crotch point t is at the upper third of the line segment oq and close to point o. tt1 is the tightening amount, tt1=half hip circumference/20-0.5, tt1 is perpendicular to oq, and connects o, t1, and q points to form the inseam suture of the rear trousers, which is used for cutting the rear trousers;

(2.3) The outer oblique point p1 of the rear trousers is the increase of the outer point p of the rear hem, which is used for the oblique cutting of the rear trousers. The waist line of the rear trousers is wn1, and the outer line of the rear trousers is the same as that of the front trousers;

(2.4) A dart is set at the back waist opening, and the dart is in the center of the back waist opening (the center line of the triangle is perpendicular to the waist opening line), and is drawn into a triangle.

Preferably, the mm1=hip circumference/20-4.5cm.

Preferably, the length of the dart is hip circumference/10-2.0 cm, and the width is (hip circumference-waist circumference)/10-0.2 cm.

Preferably, the pp1=(hip circumference/20-2.0)/2cm.

Preferably, in step (3), the bottom cloth and the knee circumference are silk-tailored by relying on the front and rear trousers, including:

(3.1) The tailoring of knee-wrapped silk is a certain distance shorter than the bottom edge of the front trousers compared with the cutting of the front trousers;

(3.2) The cutting of the bottom cloth is compared with the cutting of the crotch of the rear trousers, and the distance between the bottom 1 point and the bottom 2 points is set, and the distance between the bottom 1 point and the bottom 2 points is connected by a curve;

(3.3) Knee-wrapped silk is made by ironing the buckle at the bottom edge for a distance and seamed on the corresponding position of the trouser opening. The front of the trousers does not leak stitches. Carry out overcoating on the other three sides except the waist line;

(3.4) The bottom lining cloth is folded over a certain distance and ironed at the radian, and the bottom lining cloth is set to be attached to the crotch of the back trousers, and the edge is stitched so that the front of the trousers does not leak stitches. Overlapping, except for the waist line, the other three sides must be overcoated;

(3.5) The camber of the back crotch adopts the hemming process, and the width of the hemming is set, and its length matches the length of the back crotch;

(3.6) Bottom lining cloth and knee-wrapping silk are both cut with feather yarn, knee-wrapping silk is cut by weft yarn, and bottom lining fabric is cut by oblique yarn. Feather yarn needs to be pre-shrunk before cutting.

Preferably, the distance from the bottom 1 point to the n1 point is 15 cm, and the distance from the bottom 2 point to the o point is 15 cm.

Preferably, the parameters of the ironing process are: pressure 30kpa-98kpa, temperature 160 degrees, time 10s.

The trousers cutting, returning and ironing production method of the present invention solves the problem that the individual fit degree of the production process is not high, and has the following advantages:

The invention adopts a trousers cutting and ironing production technology, and the method has the characteristics of flexible cutting, simple method, high cutting efficiency, clear ironing skills, suitable for individualized body shape, and the like;

(1) The method of the present invention adopts the cloth folding mode to cut out the front trousers, stacks the back trousers on the basis of the cut front trousers, the cutting structure diagram is all drawn with the wool seam, and the bottom shelf cloth and the knee-wrapping silk are in cutting The good front and rear trousers are cut in the same way, and are fixed on the trousers by warping stitching and overcoating technology to form a protective layer. Both the front and rear trousers must be ironed by hand to deal with the three-dimensional shape of the trousers, so that the trousers More in line with individual body shape;

(2) The method of the present invention can better solve the three-dimensional shape of trousers, can solve the wearing requirements of different body shapes, and the production cost is also relatively low, and has artistic effect and aesthetic feeling;

(3) The method of the present invention adopts the folding method to quickly cut the front trousers, and the back trousers greatly improves the efficiency of drawing and cutting by means of the stacking of the front trousers. , improve the height conformity of the trousers to the body shape, and have the characteristics of easy operation, cutting, ironing, low production cost and the like.

Description of drawings

Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of the cloth rectangular structure of the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of fabric folding of the present invention.

Fig. 3 is a schematic drawing of the small crotch of the present invention.

Fig. 4 is a drawing schematic diagram 1 of trouser opening and side seam of the present invention.

Fig. 5 is the drawing schematic diagram II of trouser opening and side seam of the present invention.

Fig. 6 is a schematic diagram of cutting the side seam of the front trousers piece of the present invention.

Fig. 7 is a schematic diagram of cutting the fly of the present invention.

Fig. 8 is a schematic drawing of pleats of the present invention.

Figure 9 is a schematic drawing of the rear trousers of the present invention.

Fig. 10 is a schematic diagram of cutting the knee wrapping silk of the present invention.

Fig. 11 is a schematic diagram of cutting the bottom barrier cloth of the present invention.

Fig. 12 is a schematic diagram of the ironing process of the bottom edge of the knee-wrapped silk of the present invention.

Fig. 13 is a schematic diagram of the bottom edge warping of the knee wrap silk of the present invention.

Fig. 14 is a schematic diagram of the process of knee wrapping silk and pant panel overlay of the present invention.

Fig. 15 is a schematic diagram of cutting and ironing of the back trousers bottom lining cloth of the present invention.

Fig. 16 is a schematic diagram of stitching of the rear trousers, the bottom cloth overlay and the back crotch piping of the present invention.

Fig. 17 is a schematic diagram 1 of the ironing of the front trousers part of the present invention.

Fig. 18 is a schematic diagram 2 of the ironing of the front trousers part of the present invention.

Fig. 19 is a schematic diagram 1 of returning and pulling out the back trousers of the present invention.

Fig. 20 is a second schematic diagram of ironing of the back trousers piece of the present invention.

Fig. 21 is a schematic diagram of the three-dimensional shape of the front and rear trousers of the present invention.

Fig. 22 is a schematic diagram of the hemming process of the crotch of the rear pant panel of the present invention.

Labels: trouser length point a; small crotch point b; crotch point c; placket point d; straight crotch point f; trouser length outer starting point h; ; middle crotch point k; trouser leg tightening point k1; rear waistline big point n; rear warp point n1; rear hip circumference base point m; rear hip circumference point m1; The outer starting point of the length is r; the inner starting point of the length of the back trousers is s; the outer point of the rear hem is p; the inner point of the rear hem is q; the point of the rear middle crotch is t;

Detailed ways

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some of the embodiments of the present invention, but not all of them. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by persons of ordinary skill in the art without making creative efforts belong to the protection scope of the present invention.

A production method for trousers cutting, returning and ironing, comprising:

(1) The front trousers are cut, and the inner and outer side seams of the trousers are cut in the way of fabric folding, and the crotch is opened to cut;

(2) Cutting of the back trousers, relying on the method of stacking the front trousers to cut;

(3) Bottom lining cloth and knee circumference rely on the front and rear trousers for silk tailoring;

(4) ironing of the trousers, respectively carrying out the ironing of the front trousers and the ironing of the back trousers. The rear crotch has a large amount of pull-out.

The present invention adopts the fabric folding method to cut the front trousers, and stacks the cut trousers on the basis of the cut front trousers. The cutting structure diagrams are all drawn by seams, and the bottom lining cloth and the knee silk are placed on the cut front and rear trousers. It is imitated cutting, and is fixed on the trousers to form a protective layer by using the raised stitch method and the over-edge process. Both the front and rear trousers are ironed by hand to process the three-dimensional shape of the trousers, so that the trousers are more in line with the individual body shape. The above techniques are all implemented in the tailoring of wool. The invention improves the cutting efficiency through the folding and overlapping cutting method of the front and rear trousers, and the heat treatment of the trousers by manual return and ironing is beneficial to the personalized production of high-grade wool.

(1) Front trousers cutting process

As shown in Figures 1 to 8, it is the drawing and cutting process (with the 170/76A size type as an example) of the front trousers piece trousers of the present invention, and the concrete scheme is:

Set the size of each part of the trousers, take the 170/76A size as an example, the trouser length = 103 cm, the hip circumference = 100 cm, the waist circumference = 78 cm, the trouser opening = 22 cm, and the size range of different men’s trousers is 160/68A . Mouth difference = 1.0 cm, used for cutting trousers of different sizes.

Set the length and width of the fabric, as shown in Figure 1, the long side of the cloth is 104 cm (calculation method: long side = trouser length -4.0+4.0+1.0), and the wide side is 31 cm (wide side = hip circumference/4 +4.0+2.0), and fold the fabric, and fold the wide side of the fabric to make it a double layer, with the front of the fabric inside and the back outside, as shown in Figure 2.

As shown in Figure 3, set the trousers length point a (one end point of the long side), the crotch point b, the crotch point c (cb is perpendicular to the long side), and the placket point d (cd is perpendicular to the long side) at the long side of the fabric. The sides are parallel), set the rise ab=27 centimeters (calculation method: hip circumference/4+1.0+1.0), set the small crotch height cb=4.0 centimeters (calculation method: half hip circumference/10-1.0), set The crotch length cd=6.5cm (calculation method: half hip circumference/10+2.5), draw the crotch, cb is perpendicular to cd, bcd forms a right triangle, ce is perpendicular to the hypotenuse bd, and the length of ce is divided into three equal parts, in ce The last one-third point near the point e is connected with the small crotch point b and the placket point d with an arc to form a small crotch radian.

As shown in Figure 4, extend cd, intersect at point f with the wide side, set point f as the straight crotch point, set the outer starting point h (the other end point of the long side) of the trousers length, and the starting point g in the trousers length (setting On the wide side), the outer point i of the hem (set on the long side), the inner point j of the hem (ji is perpendicular to the long side); among them, the starting point g in the trouser length is used to determine the size of the trouser opening, and the distance from the trouser length The outer starting point h is 4.5 cm (calculation method: 1/2 of the wide side of the fabric-pants opening/2); the outer point i of the hem and the inner point j of the hem are used to fold the hem of the trousers, set hi=4.0 cm, ij= 4.5 cm (same as the calculation method of the starting point g in the trouser length); set k point as the mid-crotch point, k1 point as the trouser leg tightening point, k1 point is in the center of the line segment jb, set kk1 perpendicular to the line segment jb, kk1 The value ranges from 1.0 to 2.0 cm. It is used for trouser legs with different shapes. Connect b, k1, j, and g with arcs to form a trouser leg line and cut the line, as shown in Figures 5 and 6.

The cutting of the front crotch is to cut a layer of fabric from the arc formed by point f, the lower third point of line segment ce, d, and b, as shown in Figure 7.

Set the pleats of the front trousers, draw the pleats on the waist before unfolding the trousers, as shown in Figure 8, set pleats 1 and 2, and the width of pleats 1 is 3.0 cm (calculation method: hip circumference/4 -waist/4-2.5), the width of the pleat 2 is 2.5 cm (calculation method: hip/4-waist/4-3.0), and the distance between the end point of the pocket line and the length point w of the woolen pants (that is, the uncut length The end point of the side, corresponding to point a when folded) is 4.0 cm, and the length is 22 cm.

(2) Cutting process of back trousers

As shown in Figure 9, the back pant is cut with the help of the front pant, set the back waist big point n, rear warp point n1, rear hip base point m, rear hip big point m1, crotch drop point l , rear crotch high point o, rear crotch outer starting point r, rear trouser length inner starting point s, rear hem outer point p, rear hem inner point q, rear middle crotch point t, rear middle crotch tightening point t1, rear Outer point p1 of the trouser opening is used for drawing and cutting the rear trousers.

Set wn to mean that the waist of the back piece is large, which is 23.5 cm (calculation method: waist circumference/4+4.0), and set nn1 to be the back curl, which is 1.5 cm (calculation method: (hip circumference/20-2.0)/2). Set the base point m of the rear hips to be one-third of the point c on the line segment fc (the lower third of the rise of the front trousers), mm1 is the hip circumference of the rear trousers and cut it on the front trousers The difference on the sheet is 0.5 cm, which is used to adjust the inclination of the rear crotch line.

Connect the line segment n1m1 and extend it to an intersection point with the front rung line, and continue to extend a certain distance to the crotch point l, the distance is 2.5 cm (calculation method: (hip circumference/20)/2). It is set that the lo line segment is drawn upwards on the crotch drop point l, and lo is parallel to the broadside, lo=10 centimeters (calculation method: hip circumference/10). Set the midpoint of the line segment om1 at point o1 and connect it with the crotch point l to form the corner line lo1, divide the corner line lo1 into three equal parts, and the third point close to the crotch point l is the crotch bend cut Point, connect m1, crotch bend tangent point, o point to form the radian of the back big crotch, which is used for cutting the back big crotch.

Set the back cuff to draw and cut depending on the front cuff, set rp and sq to widen the rear cuff, the value is rp=sq=4.0cm (calculation method: cuff/2+4.0-folded fur The front trouser opening of the sample, the front trouser opening of the wool sample after folding=1/2-gh=11cm of the wide side of the cloth). Setting pq and rs is used for hemming, which is the same as the folding of the front trousers, and the value is pq=rs=4.0.

The rear middle crotch point t is located at one-third of the line segment oq close to point o, tt1 is the amount of tightening, tt1 is perpendicular to oq, and the value of tt1 is 2.0 cm (calculation method: half hip circumference/20-0.5), connect Points o, t1, and q constitute the inseam suture of the back trousers, which are used for cutting the back trousers.

The outer oblique point p1 of the rear trouser opening is the increase of the outer point p of the rear hem, and pp1=1.5 cm is set, which is used for oblique cutting of the rear trouser opening. The waist line of the rear trousers is connected to wn1, and the outer line of the rear trousers is the same as that of the front trousers. A dart is set at the back waist opening, and the dart is at the center of the back waist opening. The length of the dart is 8.5 centimeters, and the width is 2.0 centimeters, drawn as a triangle.

(3) Tailoring process of bottom rail cloth and knee wrapping silk

As shown in Figure 10, the knee-wrapped silk is tailored, compared with the cutting of the front trousers, which is 15 centimeters shorter than the bottom edge of the front trousers.

As shown in Figure 11, the cut of the bottom shelf cloth is compared with the cut of the crotch of the rear trousers. The distance between the bottom 1 point and the n1 point is set to 15 cm, and the bottom 2 point is 15 cm from the o point. Bottom 1 and bottom 2 are connected by a curve. Specifically, connect the bottom 1 and bottom 2 points with a line segment, make a vertical line of the bottom 1 bottom 2 line segment at 1/2 of the bottom 1 bottom 2 line segment, the length of the vertical line is 11 cm, and connect the 11 cm point, bottom 1, and bottom 2 points to draw the curvature.

As shown in Figures 12 and 13, the knee-wrapping silk is made by ironing the buckle down 1.0 cm at the bottom edge and sewing it at the corresponding position of the trouser opening. Set the knee-wrapping silk to stick to the front trousers, as shown in Figure 14, take the overcoating stitches to remove the other three sides except the waistline for overcoating.

As shown in Figure 15, the bottom lining cloth is turned down 1.0 cm at the arc and ironed, and the bottom lining cloth is set to be attached to the crotch of the back pant, and the seam is stitched with warped edges. As shown in Figure 16, the back trousers piece is overcoated together with the bottom shelf cloth, and all other three sides except the waist line will be overcoated.

As shown in Figure 22, the camber of the back crotch adopts the hemming process. This process uses the hemming device to hem the edge. Set the width of the hemming cloth strip to 3.0 cm, fold it in half along the length, fold the two sides of the cloth strip back to 0.7 cm again, and clamp the back pant crotch Hemming is carried out at the bottom, and the hemming cloth strips are made of feather yarn material for diagonal cutting. The width of the hemming is set to 0.8 cm, and the length matches the length of the back crotch.

Bottom lining cloth and knee wrapping silk are both cut with feather yarn, knee wrapping silk is laid out by weft yarn cutting, bottom shelf fabric is laid out by oblique yarn cutting, and feather yarn needs to be pre-shrunk before cutting. Taking feather yarn is easier to reduce cost than using beautiful silk. Set the feather yarn warp to be made of artificial silk (/filament fiber) thick yarn, and the weft yarn to be made of cotton fiber fine yarn. Easy to fit fabric.

(4) Trousers return and ironing process

As shown in Figure 17, the front trousers should be pulled back and ironed, the placket and side hips of the trousers should be folded in, and the knees of the trousers should be pulled out from the inside to the outside. Perform return ironing. Ironing process parameters: pressure 30kpa ~ 98kpa (0.3kgf/cm ² ~ 1kgf/cm ² ), temperature 160 degrees, time 10s.

As shown in Figures 18 and 21, the front trousers piece is pulled back so that the inner and outer seams of the trousers piece become approximately straight lines, the front trousers piece is folded along the straight seam line and the front piece is ironed to straighten the seam, and the curvature after ironing is very straight. The abdomen is convex before the suture, the knee is concave, and the lateral seam is straight.

As shown in Figures 19-21, pull back the back trousers so that the inner and outer seams of the trousers become approximately straight lines, set the length of the back crotch to 10 cm, fold the front trousers along the seam line and iron the rear trousers High-strength seams, after ironing, the curved straight seams are protruding buttocks, concave knees, and straight outside seams.

As shown in Figure 22, the hemming process of the crotch of the back trousers is done with a hemming device, the width of the hemming cloth is set to 3.0 cm, folded in half along the length, and the two sides of the cloth are folded back to 0.7 cm, and the crotch of the back trousers is clamped For piping, the piping strips are made of feather yarn material for diagonal cutting, and the length matches the length of the back crotch.

Although the content of the present invention has been described in detail through the above preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the above description should not be considered as limiting the present invention. Various modifications and alterations to the present invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the above disclosure. Therefore, the protection scope of the present invention should be defined by the appended claims.

Claims (8)

1. A method for making trousers by cutting, ironing and pressing is characterized in that the method comprises the following steps:

(1) Cutting the front trouser piece, cutting the inner and outer side seams of the trouser legs in a cloth folding mode in a woolen shape, and cutting the trouser legs by opening the small crotch;

(2) Cutting the rear trousers pieces by a front trousers piece stacking cutting method;

(3) The bottom barrier cloth and the knee circumference are cut into silk depending on the front and the back trousers pieces, and are fixed on the front trousers piece and the back trousers piece by adopting a raised edge stitch method and an overlock process to form a protective layer;

(4) The front trouser piece and the back trouser piece are pulled and ironed;

wherein, the front trouser pieces are ironed by pulling: the front opening of the trousers and the hip circumference of the side edges are retracted, the knees of the trousers are pulled out from inside to outside, the trend of an iron is S-line, the retraction ironing is carried out on the two sides of the straightening line, the front trousers are folded along the straightening line and the curvature straightening line of the front trousers is ironed; pulling and ironing the rear trousers piece: setting the elongation of the pulled-out length of the rear crotch part to be 8.0-10 cm, setting the trend of a rear piece iron to be an S line, performing pull-out ironing on two sides of a straightening line, folding the trousers piece along the straightening line and ironing the curvature of the rear trousers piece;

in the step (1), the front trousers piece is cut, and the method comprises the following steps:

(1.1) determining the length of trousers, the hip circumference, the waist circumference and the size of the opening of trousers, selecting cloth, wherein the long edge of the cloth is =4.0 cm +1.0cm from the length of trousers, and the wide edge of the cloth is =4.0 cm +4.0cm from the width of buttocks, and the wide edge of the doubled cloth is doubled;

(1.2) drawing the front crotch part: one end point of a long edge of the cloth is taken as a trouser length point a, a small crotch point b, ab = hip circumference/4 +1.0cm, a crotch standing point c and a front opening point d are set on the long edge, cb is perpendicular to the long edge, cb = half hip circumference/10-1.0cm, cd is parallel to ba, cd = half hip circumference/10 +2.5cm, bd is connected, a perpendicular line is intersected at the point e from the point c to the point bd, the ce length is divided into three equal parts, one third point on the crotch, which is close to the point e, is connected with the small crotch point b and the front opening point d through an arc line to form the small crotch, the radian of cd is prolonged to be intersected at the point f, the point f is taken as a crotch straightening point, and a connecting point f, a point of three third of a line segment, d and b form a front arc line;

(1.3) drawing a trouser pipeline: setting the other end point of the long edge of the cloth as a trouser length outer starting point h, setting a trouser length inner starting point g on the wide edge, wherein gh = 1/2-trouser opening/2 cm of the wide edge of the cloth, setting a hem outer point i on the long edge, setting a hem inner point j on the front trouser piece, wherein ji is vertical to the long edge, hi and gj are the folding trouser edges of the front trouser piece and are connected with jb, setting a k point as a crotch point, a k1 point as a trouser pipe tightening point, a k1 point as the middle point of a line segment jb, setting a kk1 vertical to the line segment jb, connecting b, k1, j and g by an arc line to form a trouser pipeline, cutting double-layer cloth along the line, and cutting a layer of cloth along the front arc line at the crotch part;

(1.4) drawing the front trouser sheet pleat: drawing a pleat on the waist of the trousers piece before unfolding, setting a pleat 1 and a pleat 2, wherein the width of the pleat 1 is = hip circumference/4-waistline/4-2.5 cm, the width of the pleat 2 is = hip circumference/4-waistline/4-3.0 cm, a woolen-like trouser length point w is an end point which corresponds to the point a in the doubling process and is not cut, and setting the distance between one end point of a pocket line and the woolen-like trouser length point w and the length of the pocket line so as to determine the intersection point of the pocket line and the long edge or the trouser leg line;

in the step (2), cutting the rear trousers piece, comprising the following steps:

(2.1) drawing a back large crotch: setting a rear waistline large point n by cutting a front trouser sheet stack, wherein wn is the rear waist large point, wn = waistline/4.0 cm, setting a rear warping point n1, n1n is perpendicular to a wide side, n1n = (hip circumference/20-2.0 cm)/2, setting a point m of a rear hip circumference base point to be one third of a line fc adjacent to a point c, m is the rear hip circumference base point, mm1 is parallel to the wide side, mm1 is the difference number of the rear trouser sheet hip circumference stack cut on the front trouser sheet, setting a connecting line segment n1m1 and extending to generate an intersection point with the front crosspiece line and continuing to extend a certain distance to a crotch point l, the distance = (hip circumference/20)/2, a line segment is led out upwards at the crotch point l, an o point is a rear crotch point, the crotch point is parallel to the wide side, the crotch = hip circumference/10 cm, setting a point o1 to be positioned at the crotch point 1 and connected with the crotch point l, dividing the crotch point lo into three equal parts, and dividing the crotch point into a curved line, the three equal parts, wherein the crotch point l is used for forming a three equal dividing point;

(2.2) drawing a crotch suture line: setting a rear trouser length outer starting point r, a rear trouser length inner starting point s, a rear folding outer point p and a rear folding inner point q, rp and sq for widening a rear trouser opening by means of a front trouser piece, rp = sq = trouser opening/2 +2.0 cm-folded wool-like front trouser opening cm, the folded wool-like front trouser opening = 1/2-gh of the wide edge of the cloth, pq and rs are used for folding edges and are equal to the length of the front trouser piece folding trouser edge, a rear crotch point t is positioned at the upper third of a line segment oq and close to an o point, tt1 is a tightening amount, tt1= half hip circumference/20-0.5 cm, and tt1 is perpendicular to oq, and connecting o, t1 and q points to form a rear trouser piece lower crotch suture line for cutting the rear trouser piece;

(2.3) the outer oblique point p1 of the rear trouser opening is the increasing amount of the outer point p of the rear folded edge, and is used for obliquely cutting the rear trouser opening, the waist line of the rear trouser piece is wn1, and the outer side line of the rear trouser piece is the same as that of the front trouser piece;

(2.4) setting a dart at the back waist opening, wherein the dart is positioned at the center of the back waist opening and is drawn into a triangle.

2. The method for making trousers cutting, ironing and pressing according to claim 1, wherein hi = gj, and hi and gj are 3.5-4.0 cm in length.

3. The pant cutting, ironing and manufacturing method according to claim 1, wherein mm1= hip circumference/20-4.5 cm.

4. The method for making trousers with cutting, ironing and pressing functions as claimed in claim 1, wherein the dart is 10-2.0cm long and 10-0.2cm wide.

5. Trousers cutting, ironing and pressing method according to claim 1, characterized in that pp1= (hip circumference/20-2.0)/2 cm.

6. The trousers cutting, ironing and making method according to claim 1, wherein in the step (3), the bottom barrier cloth and the knee circumference are cut by silk depending on the front and rear trousers pieces, comprising:

(3.1) cutting the knee leg surrounding silk, which is shorter than the bottom edge of the front trousers piece by a certain distance;

(3.2) cutting the bottom blocking cloth according to the crotch of the rear trousers piece, setting the distance between a point 1 and a point n1, and the distance between a point o and a point 2, wherein the point 1 and the point 2 are connected by a curve;

(3.3) knee lining is manufactured at the bottom edge, ironed and buckled for a distance and the raised edge is sewn at the position corresponding to the trouser opening, no seam is leaked at the front side of the trousers, the knee lining is set to be attached to the front trousers piece, and other three edges except the waist line are overlooked by overlocking stitches;

(3.4) buckling and reversing the bottom blocking cloth at the radian for ironing, setting the bottom blocking cloth to be attached to the crotch of the rear trouser piece, sewing by using a raised edge, preventing stitches from leaking on the front side of the trousers, overlocking the rear trouser piece and the bottom blocking cloth, and overlocking the other three edges except the waist line;

(3.5) adopting a binding process for the crotch back camber, setting the binding width, and matching the length with the crotch back length;

(3.6) cutting the bottom blocking cloth and the knee surrounding silk by using the down yarns, wherein the material of the knee surrounding silk is cut by using the weft yarns, the material of the bottom blocking cloth is cut by using the oblique yarns, and the pre-shrinking treatment is carried out before the down yarns are cut.

7. The method for making trousers cutting, ironing and pressing according to claim 6, wherein the distance between the point 1 and the point n1 is 15 cm, and the distance between the point o and the point 2 is 15 cm.

8. The method for making trousers cutting, ironing and pressing according to claim 1, wherein the ironing process parameters are as follows: the pressure is 30-98 kpa, the temperature is 160 ℃, and the time is 10s.

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