CN115919001B - Process for improving waist fit degree of casual pants - Google Patents
Process for improving waist fit degree of casual pants Download PDFInfo
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- CN115919001B CN115919001B CN202211300147.3A CN202211300147A CN115919001B CN 115919001 B CN115919001 B CN 115919001B CN 202211300147 A CN202211300147 A CN 202211300147A CN 115919001 B CN115919001 B CN 115919001B
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- lining
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 37
- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 94
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 41
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
- 210000003128 head Anatomy 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000004696 Poly ether ether ketone Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920002530 polyetherether ketone Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 8
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000005187 foaming Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000002391 femur head Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 210000002758 humerus Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000000123 paper Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011087 paperboard Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000011160 research Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000006850 spacer group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
Abstract
The invention discloses a process for improving the waist fit of leisure pants, which comprises the following steps of: ironing elastic waist lining: ironing an elastic waist lining on the waist cloth, and pre-shrinking and shaping by a press after ironing; in the waist-combining face: sewing the elastic waist lining on the waist cloth; scalding the waist head: placing the waist cloth with the waist lining on a ironing table according to an arc shape, and ironing the upper waist opening; shaping the lumbar by a press after the lumbar is scalded; upper waistband: drawing a front upper waist line of the trousers after putting the trousers flat, ironing after putting the waist on the trousers, and shaping by a secondary pressing machine; in the step S2, the draft of the whole waist surface is 2cm. The invention controls draft through the technological means, particularly the waist surface, the upper waist opening, the return ironing, the trousers waist opening, the draft, and the twice press shaping, thereby effectively improving the fit degree of the waist of the leisure trousers with relatively low cost and achieving the effects of beautiful appearance and comfort.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of casual pants technology, in particular to a technology for improving the waist fit of casual pants.
Background
The business men's leisure pants are indispensable single articles for daily wearing of business men in the middle-aged and the young, and have quite large and stable market space. As economic and consumer levels increase, consumer demand for aesthetic appeal and comfort in wear of casual pants increases. The waist is one of the important parts of the leisure pants, and has great influence on the wearing effect. The prior art does not see the technical means for solving the problem, and the patent with the publication number of CN 111165981A: a method for precisely making plate of clothes with universality includes such steps as building three-dimensional coordinate system with measuring bench, obtaining three-dimensional coordinates of human body feature points, using humerus head and femur head as rotation axle, using neck-chest inclination angle, neck-back inclination angle, back-waist inclination angle and waist-hip inclination angle as deflection angle, implementing three-dimensional coordinates and angle data as feature points on plane by plate making method, connecting feature points by proper curve, drawing body contour or designed clothes contour on paperboard, and drawing basic template after marking province and saving quantity. The method realizes that men or women with different shapes can produce clothes with good fit degree through a plate making method. In addition, the influence of ironing on the patterns is well known in the art, and has a sentence commonly known as 'three-slit seven-part ironing', and the influence of ironing on the patterns of western trousers is also studied in the prior art, see paper 'ironing on the patterns of western trousers' research on the patterns of the involuted body's patterns' published in the clothing science and technology at 2 nd stage of 4 months of 2017 of Gao Yunbing of Anhui triad school: the shaping effect of the combined western style trousers is obtained by analyzing the processes of returning, pulling and pushing of important parts of the front and rear trousers pieces, so that the appearance is more three-dimensional, for example, dead folds on the western style trousers are firstly returned to ironing, then the fold tips on the back are pushed flat, and the trousers are worn on the human body to conform to the body by combining the processes of returning and pulling, so that the three-dimensional effect is obtained, and the human body curve is beautiful. The front and rear plane cut pieces are in an outward splicing joint of the seat (hip circumference) and are in an outward convex arc shape, the shape of a human body can be met through the combination of the return and pull processes, no enough looseness (fat potential) exists at the seat, and the bulge phenomenon can occur at the two sides of the human body in the concrete mode that: the radial cloth lines at the convex arc line part outside the hip circumference line are subjected to ironing, the convex arc line is contracted into a straight line, the redundant quantity (fat potential) is pushed to the hip circumference direction, and the cloth lines at the position 3.0-4.0 cm close to the edge of the splice are straight lines and smooth; since the inner side of the hip circumference is not subjected to the shrinking treatment, the yarn is relatively long, and a certain loose part is necessarily formed. However, the existing return ironing adopts a die with a fixed shape, so that the adaptability is poor, and the requirements of return ironing cannot be completely met.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects in the prior art and provide a process for improving the waist fitting degree of the leisure pants, which can effectively improve the waist fitting degree of the leisure pants with relatively low cost by a process means, thereby achieving the effects of beautiful appearance and comfort.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the technical scheme of the invention is to design a process for improving the waist fit of leisure pants, which comprises the following steps in sequence:
s1: ironing elastic waist lining: ironing an elastic waist lining on the waist cloth, and pre-shrinking and shaping by a press after ironing;
s2: in the waist-combining face: sewing the elastic waist lining on the waist cloth;
s3: scalding the waist head: placing the waist cloth with the waist lining on a ironing table according to an arc shape, and ironing the upper waist opening; shaping the lumbar by a press after the lumbar is scalded;
s4: upper waistband: drawing a front upper waist line of the trousers after putting the trousers flat, ironing after putting the waist on the trousers, and shaping by a secondary pressing machine;
in the step S2, the draft of the whole waist surface is 2cm. The waist fitting degree of the leisure pants can be effectively improved with relatively low cost through the process means, and the effects of attractive appearance and comfort are achieved.
The further technical scheme is that the step S1 is as follows: the back surface of the waist cloth is upwards placed on the ironing table, and the waist cloth is ironed and flattened by an iron, and the yarn lock returns to the original; the elastic waist lining is opposite to the back surface of the waist surface cloth, the middle of the waist surface cloth is placed, yarn locks are straight, and the waist surface cloth is preshrinked by an overpressure machine after ironing by an iron. The radian of the upper opening of the waist lining is required to be round, natural, firm, smooth and non-foaming.
The further technical scheme is that the step S2 is as follows: the waist cloth is horizontally placed on a machine table with the right side upwards, and the elastic waist lining is vertically pressed on the waist cloth; the edges of the waist lining and the edges of the waist surface cloth are placed in parallel, the distance between the waist lining and the edges of the waist surface cloth is 0.3cm, the seam position is 1.6cm, the flat seam is formed, the elastic waist lining is tightly worn, the whole waist surface is 2cm in draft, the right waist surface cloth is 9cm away from the front middle point, and the left waist lining is aligned in the front middle. The waist surface seam allowance is required to be uniform in width, attractive and flat in stitch, and free of wiring and broken stitch.
The further technical scheme is that the step S3 is as follows: putting the waist surface in the waist on a ironing table according to an arc shape, treading on induced draft, ironing the two surfaces according to radian to be smooth, ironing the whole waist upper opening by 3-4 cm, enabling the width of the waist surface seam allowance to be consistent, and shaping by a press. The radian of the waist opening is required to be round, the width of the seam allowance is required to be consistent, and the waist head is required to be flat.
The further technical scheme is that the step S4 is as follows: the length of the waist of trousers is checked, the cutter eyes are compared, and the right side of the trousers piece is placed upwards and leveled; the zipper is pulled, the fly is laid flat, the left waist opening and the right waist opening are straight and have the same height, and the front middle-upper waist line of the trousers piece is drawn;
upper waist: the front fly is put right, and the zipper is put flat; the waistband line is aligned with the waistband line on the trousers piece, the front middle point of the waistband surface is aligned with the seam of Ji Men front part, the knife eye is aligned with the seam of 0.1cm from the front middle point, the trousers loops are placed according to the knife eye position, the trousers are shaped by a secondary pressing machine. The waist of trousers flat clothing specification is accurate, and left and right trousers loops are symmetrical, and waist opening at two sides is consistent.
In the step S3, a return ironing die is adopted in return ironing;
the return ironing die is made of polyether-ether-ketone resin material, is arranged in a shape similar to the waist heads arranged in an arc shape, and is movably provided with cushion blocks at return ironing positions of the waist heads. Through the setting of the cushion that sets up with putting into boiling hot mould activity, can realize the different processing of putting into boiling hot of the lumbar of similar size shape through the mode of changing different cushion, improved the adaptability of putting into boiling hot mould in this technology, need not just need to change new mould like prior art slightly change.
The cushion block is made of polyether-ether-ketone resin material, a slot for inserting the cushion block is formed in the return ironing die, a concave is formed in the middle of one surface of the cushion block, away from the return ironing die, of the cushion block, and pins matched with the slot are arranged on one surface of the cushion block, facing the return ironing die. The middle part of the cushion block is provided with a dent to give the return ironing quantity, which meets the return ironing requirement better.
The further technical scheme is that the pin is in a round table shape, the large-size end of the pin is far away from the return ironing die, the slot is in a round groove shape, and the diameter of the slot is matched with the diameter of the large-size end of the pin;
a circular table groove-shaped taper sleeve is matched with the pin. The difference of the heights of the cushion blocks can be realized by adopting taper sleeves with different sizes so as to improve the adaptability of the return ironing die.
The further technical scheme is that the outer taper sleeve is arranged in a fit manner with the taper sleeve, and the surface of the outer taper sleeve is fixedly provided with the identification patch. The outer taper sleeve is also sleeved with the outer taper sleeve with larger size, so that the height of the return ironing position of the return ironing die can be locally adjusted to meet the return ironing requirements when different return ironing amounts are achieved. The surface of the outer taper sleeve is fixedly provided with a label for marking the return ironing quantity or the height of the cushion block after the cushion block is worn on the taper sleeve.
The further technical scheme is that the inner side wall of the outer cone sleeve is provided with at least two ring grooves with the same shape and size, and the outer surface of the cone sleeve is provided with a circular ring bulge matched with the ring grooves; the ring bulge is made of elastic rubber material. Through setting up the back like this, can make earlier in the time of returning to scalding and take in higher height, the back rethread flatiron pushes down the pad piece and makes the cushion down move to the protruding card of ring and carries out returning to scalding again after next annular, can satisfy like this and need progressively return to the trousers of scalding.
The invention has the advantages and beneficial effects that: through the setting of the cushion that sets up with putting into boiling hot mould activity, can realize the different processing of putting into boiling hot of the lumbar of similar size shape through the mode of changing different cushion, improved the adaptability of putting into boiling hot mould in this technology, need not just need to change new mould like prior art slightly change.
The outer taper sleeve is also sleeved with the outer taper sleeve with larger size, so that the height of the return ironing position of the return ironing die can be locally adjusted to meet the return ironing requirements when different return ironing amounts are achieved.
The pins can be located at a higher height when the trousers are put into the ironing, and the pad block is pressed down by the iron after the trousers are put into the ironing, so that the pad block moves downwards until the ring bulge is clamped to the next ring groove, and then the trousers are put into the ironing, and therefore the trousers are put into the ironing step by step.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a first process step in a process for improving the fit of the waist of a pair of casual pants according to the invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the seam between the waist cloth and the waist in the second process of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic view showing the positional relationship between the waist cloth and the waist lining in the second process of the present invention;
fig. 4 is a schematic view of a third process step of the present invention after the waist is scalded;
FIG. 5 is a schematic view showing the development of the pants piece and the waist in the fourth process of the present invention;
FIG. 6 is a schematic view of the operation state of the ironing in the fourth process of the present invention;
FIG. 7 is a top view of the return ironing die of the present invention;
FIG. 8 is a schematic view of the spacer of FIG. 7;
FIG. 9 is a bottom view of FIG. 8;
fig. 10 is an exploded view of the plug, cone and outer cone of fig. 9.
In the figure: 1. waist cloth; 2. a waist lining; 3. trousers pieces; 4. ironing a die; 5. a cushion block; 6. a recess; 7. pins; 8. a taper sleeve; 9. an outer cone sleeve; 10. a ring groove; 11. the circular ring is convex.
Detailed Description
The following describes the embodiments of the present invention further with reference to the drawings and examples. The following examples are only for more clearly illustrating the technical aspects of the present invention, and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention.
The invention relates to a process for improving the waist fit degree of leisure pants, which is mainly characterized in that the draft is controlled by the waist surface, the return ironing amount is controlled by the upper waist opening, the draft is controlled by the waist opening of a pants piece, and the shaping is carried out by a twice-press.
The process can be divided into four working procedures, wherein the first working procedure is to heat the elastic waist lining: the back surface of the waist cloth 1 is upwards placed on an ironing table, and the cloth is ironed and flattened by an iron, and the yarn lock is returned to the original; the elastic waist lining 2 is opposite to the back surface of the surface cloth, the middle of the surface cloth is placed, yarn locks are straight, and the yarn locks are preshrinked by an iron ironing and pressing machine, as shown in figure 1. The radian of the upper opening of the waist lining is required to be round, natural, firm, smooth and non-foaming.
The second procedure is to combine the waist surface: the waist cloth 1 is horizontally placed on a machine table with the front face upwards, and the front face of an elastic waist lining (namely a waist lining 2) is pressed on the waist cloth 1 upwards; the waist lining is placed in parallel with 0.3cm from the waist surface, the seam is 1.6cm flat seam, the elastic waist lining is tightly worn, the whole waist surface is 2cm in draft, the right waist surface cloth is 9cm away from the front middle point, and the left waist lining is aligned in the front middle; as shown in fig. 2 and 3. The waist surface seam allowance is required to be uniform in width, attractive and flat in stitch, and free of wiring and broken stitch.
The third procedure is to burn the waist head: putting the waist surface in the waist on a ironing table according to an arc shape, treading on induced draft, ironing the two surfaces according to radian to be smooth, ironing the whole waist upper opening by 3-4 cm, enabling the width of the waist surface seam allowance to be consistent, and shaping by a press. As shown in fig. 4. The radian of the waist opening is required to be round, the width of the seam allowance is required to be consistent, and the waist head is required to be flat.
The fourth procedure is to go up the waistband: (1) The length comparison tool eyes of the waist of trousers are checked, and the front side of the trousers piece 3 is arranged upwards and is flat; the zipper is pulled, the fly is laid flat, the left waist opening and the right waist opening are straight and have the same height, and the front middle-upper waist line of the trousers piece is drawn. (2) waist-up: the front fly is put right, and the zipper is put flat; the waistband line is aligned with the waistband line on the trousers piece, the front middle point of the waistband surface is aligned with the seam of Ji Men front part, the knife eye is aligned with the seam of 0.1cm from the front middle point, the trousers loops are placed according to the knife eye position, the trousers are shaped by a secondary pressing machine. As shown in fig. 6 and 5. The waist of trousers flat clothing specification is accurate, and left and right trousers loops are symmetrical, and waist opening at two sides is consistent. As shown in fig. 7 to 10 (for convenience of illustration, fig. 7 does not show plug-in connection; fig. 9 does not show ring groove and ring protrusion), in the third process, the ironing mold 4 is used for ironing; the return ironing die 4 is made of polyether-ether-ketone resin material, the return ironing die 4 is arranged in a shape similar to the waist head arranged in an arc shape, and a cushion block 5 is movably arranged on the return ironing die 4 at the return ironing position of the waist head. The cushion block 5 is also made of polyether-ether-ketone resin material, the return ironing die 4 is provided with a slot for inserting the cushion block 5, the middle part of one surface of the cushion block 5, which is far away from the return ironing die 4, is provided with a dent 6, and one surface of the cushion block 5, which faces the return ironing die 4, is provided with a pin 7 which is matched with the slot. The pin 7 is in a round table shape, the large-size end of the pin 7 is far away from the return ironing die 4, the slot is in a round slot shape, and the diameter of the slot is matched with the diameter of the large-size end of the pin 7; a circular table groove-shaped taper sleeve 8 is matched with the pin 7. An outer taper sleeve 9 is arranged in a fit manner with the taper sleeve 8, and an identification patch is fixedly arranged on the surface of the outer taper sleeve 9. The inner side wall of the outer taper sleeve 9 is provided with at least two ring grooves 10 with the same shape and size, the outer surface of the taper sleeve 8 is provided with a circular ring bulge 11 matched with the ring grooves 10 (the size of the circular ring bulge is basically matched with the diameter of the ring groove positioned above due to the adoption of the taper sleeve and the outer taper sleeve, so that a little force is needed during pressing down); the circular ring bulge 11 is made of elastic rubber material.
The working principle of the return ironing die is as follows:
when the trousers are put into the ironing mode, the pins are located at a higher height (namely, the pins are firstly inserted into the taper sleeve, the taper sleeve is inserted into the outer taper sleeve, the annular protrusions of the taper sleeve are clamped with the annular grooves above), after the trousers are put into the ironing mode, the cushion block is downwards moved through the iron pressing cushion block, the annular protrusions on the taper sleeve are clamped to the next annular groove, and then the trousers are put into the ironing mode, so that the trousers are put into the ironing mode step by step; different return ironing processes of waist heads with similar sizes and shapes can be realized by changing different cushion blocks.
The foregoing is merely a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that several modifications and variations can be made without departing from the technical principle of the present invention, and these modifications and variations should also be regarded as the scope of the invention.
Claims (7)
1. The process for improving the waist fitness of the leisure pants is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
s1: ironing elastic waist lining: ironing an elastic waist lining on the waist cloth, and pre-shrinking and shaping by a press after ironing;
s2: in the waist-combining face: sewing the elastic waist lining on the waist cloth;
s3: scalding the waist head: placing the waist cloth with the waist lining on a ironing table according to an arc shape, and ironing the upper waist opening; shaping the lumbar by a press after the lumbar is scalded;
s4: upper waistband: drawing a front upper waist line of the trousers after putting the trousers flat, ironing after putting the waist on the trousers, and shaping by a secondary pressing machine;
in the step S2, the draft of the whole waist surface is 2cm; in the step S3, a return ironing die is adopted during return ironing;
the return ironing die is made of polyether-ether-ketone resin material, is arranged in a shape similar to the waist heads arranged in an arc shape, and is movably provided with cushion blocks at the return ironing position of the waist heads; the cushion block is also made of polyether-ether-ketone resin material, the return ironing die is provided with a slot for inserting the cushion block, the middle part of one surface of the cushion block, which is far away from the return ironing die, is provided with a dent, and one surface of the cushion block, which faces the return ironing die, is provided with a pin matched with the slot; the pin is in a round table shape, the large-size end of the pin is far away from the return ironing die, the slot is in a round groove shape, and the diameter of the slot is matched with the diameter of the large-size end of the pin;
a plurality of round table groove-shaped taper sleeves with different taper sizes are matched with the pins.
2. The process for improving the waist fitness of casual pants according to claim 1, wherein the step S1 is: the back surface of the waist cloth is upwards placed on the ironing table, and the waist cloth is ironed and flattened by an iron, and the yarn lock returns to the original; the elastic waist lining is opposite to the back surface of the waist surface cloth, the middle of the waist surface cloth is placed, yarn locks are straight, and the waist surface cloth is preshrinked by an overpressure machine after ironing by an iron.
3. The process for improving the waist fitness of casual pants according to claim 2, wherein the step S2 is: the waist cloth is horizontally placed on a machine table with the right side upwards, and the elastic waist lining is vertically pressed on the waist cloth; the edges of the waist lining and the edges of the waist surface cloth are placed in parallel, the distance between the waist lining and the edges of the waist surface cloth is 0.3cm, the seam position is 1.6cm, the flat seam is formed, the elastic waist lining is tightly worn, the whole waist surface is 2cm in draft, the right waist surface cloth is 9cm away from the front middle point, and the left waist lining is aligned in the front middle.
4. A process for improving the fit of the waist of a pair of casual pants according to claim 3, wherein the step S3 is: putting the waist surface in the combined waist on a ironing table according to an arc shape, treading the air suction, ironing the two surfaces according to radian to be smooth, ironing the whole waist upper opening by 3-4 cm, enabling the width of the waist surface seam allowance to be consistent, and shaping by a press.
5. The process for improving the waist fitness of casual pants according to claim 4, wherein the step S4 is: the length of the waist of trousers is checked, the cutter eyes are compared, and the right side of the trousers piece is placed upwards and leveled; the zipper is pulled, the fly is laid flat, the left waist opening and the right waist opening are straight and have the same height, and the front middle-upper waist line of the trousers piece is drawn;
upper waist: the front fly is put right, and the zipper is put flat; the waistband line is aligned with the waistband line on the trousers piece, the front middle point of the waistband surface is aligned with the seam of Ji Men front part, the knife eye is aligned with the seam of 0.1cm from the front middle point, the trousers loops are placed according to the knife eye position, the trousers are shaped by a secondary pressing machine.
6. The process for improving the waist fitness of the leisure pants according to claim 1, wherein an outer cone sleeve is arranged in a matched mode with the cone sleeve, and a label is fixedly arranged on the surface of the outer cone sleeve.
7. The process for improving the waist fitness of the leisure pants according to claim 6, wherein the inner side wall of the outer taper sleeve is provided with at least two ring grooves with the same shape and size, and the outer surface of the taper sleeve is provided with a circular ring bulge matched with the ring grooves; the ring bulge is made of elastic rubber material.
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|---|---|---|---|
| CN202211300147.3A CN115919001B (en) | 2022-10-24 | 2022-10-24 | Process for improving waist fit degree of casual pants |
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| CN202211300147.3A CN115919001B (en) | 2022-10-24 | 2022-10-24 | Process for improving waist fit degree of casual pants |
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| CN115919001B true CN115919001B (en) | 2023-10-27 |
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| CN207391879U (en) * | 2017-11-02 | 2018-05-22 | 苏州岚山机械科技有限公司 | A kind of five multi-functional ironing-tableses of station L-shaped |
| CN108175141A (en) * | 2018-02-07 | 2018-06-19 | 蓝豹股份有限公司 | Fork technique living is opened in waist normalized hot radian, low back at seam |
| CN208266542U (en) * | 2018-06-07 | 2018-12-21 | 西京学院 | A kind of trousers drawing ironing shaper |
| CN111820490A (en) * | 2019-04-15 | 2020-10-27 | 西京学院 | Method for making trousers cutting, ironing and pressing |
| CN212000304U (en) * | 2020-03-18 | 2020-11-24 | 广州市创兴服装集团有限公司 | Clothes hanger for ironing jeans wear |
| CN111802714A (en) * | 2020-07-20 | 2020-10-23 | 西京学院 | Method for cutting men's suit universal exhibition lining |
| CN216304203U (en) * | 2021-11-04 | 2022-04-15 | 容城县罗萨服饰有限公司 | Trousers waist hem is whole scalds appurtenance |
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