CN111820490A - Method for making trousers cutting, ironing and pressing - Google Patents
Method for making trousers cutting, ironing and pressing Download PDFInfo
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- CN111820490A CN111820490A CN201910301368.4A CN201910301368A CN111820490A CN 111820490 A CN111820490 A CN 111820490A CN 201910301368 A CN201910301368 A CN 201910301368A CN 111820490 A CN111820490 A CN 111820490A
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- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 89
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 60
- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 47
- 238000003825 pressing Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 68
- 210000003127 knee Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- 230000000903 blocking effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 210000002414 leg Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 239000011241 protective layer Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000005452 bending Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000009964 serging Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000002035 prolonged effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000004364 calculation method Methods 0.000 description 12
- 238000009966 trimming Methods 0.000 description 8
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 6
- 210000003746 feather Anatomy 0.000 description 4
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000037237 body shape Effects 0.000 description 2
- 210000001217 buttock Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920002955 Art silk Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 210000001015 abdomen Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000004075 alteration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000004888 barrier function Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011230 binding agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009957 hemming Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000004417 patella Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
- A41D1/06—Trousers
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a method for making trousers by cutting, ironing and ironing, which comprises the following steps: (1) cutting the front trouser piece, cutting the inner and outer side seams of the trouser legs in a cloth folding mode in a woolen shape, and cutting the trouser legs by opening the small crotch; (2) cutting the rear trousers pieces by a front trousers piece stacking cutting method; (3) the bottom blocking cloth and the knee circumference are cut into silk depending on the front and the rear trousers pieces, and are fixed on the front trousers pieces and the rear trousers pieces by adopting a selvage raising needle method and a binding process to form a protective layer; (4) and (5) ironing the front trouser piece and the rear trouser piece. Wherein, the front trouser pieces are ironed by pulling: the front fly of the trousers and the hip circumference of the side edges are moved in, the knees of the trousers are pulled out from inside to outside, the trend of the iron is S-line, and the front fly and the hip circumference are pressed in and out at the two sides of the line of pressing; pulling and ironing the rear trousers piece: setting the drawing distance of the rear crotch part, folding the front trouser piece and the rear trouser piece along the line of straightening and sewing, and ironing the front trouser piece and the rear trouser piece. The method of the invention improves the drawing and cutting efficiency and also improves the height coincidence of the trousers pieces to the body type.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a method for making trousers, in particular to a method for making trousers by cutting, ironing and pressing.
Background
The traditional industrialized production solves the problem of mass production, but still has the defects in the aspect of conforming to the personalized human body, for example, the fit degree of the crotch, the hip, the waist and other parts is not high, and the clothes purchased by consumers are difficult to completely reach the fit.
In the prior art, some trousers manufacturers process the three-dimensional shape of the trousers through a shaping machine, but the defect is that the difference of individual body types cannot be realized through unified shapes and unified shaping standards.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a method for cutting, ironing and making trousers, which solves the problem of low individual fitness of the existing making process, designs the shape and the size of the trousers according to individuals, adopts folding and stacking cutting methods and implements the folding and stacking cutting methods at the same time, improves the cutting efficiency of advanced customization of the trousers and reduces the cost.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention provides a method for making trousers by cutting, ironing and pressing, which comprises the following steps:
(1) cutting the front trouser piece, cutting the inner and outer side seams of the trouser legs in a cloth folding mode in a woolen shape, and cutting the trouser legs by opening the small crotch;
(2) cutting the rear trousers pieces by a front trousers piece stacking cutting method;
(3) the bottom blocking cloth and the knee circumference are cut into silk depending on the front and the rear trousers pieces, and are fixed on the front trousers pieces and the rear trousers pieces by adopting a selvage raising needle method and a binding process to form a protective layer;
(4) and (5) ironing the front trouser piece and the rear trouser piece.
Wherein, the front trouser pieces are ironed by pulling: the front opening of the trousers and the hip circumference of the side edges are retracted, the knees of the trousers are pulled out from inside to outside, the trend of an iron is S-line, the retraction ironing is carried out on the two sides of the straightening line, the front trousers are folded along the straightening line and the curvature straightening line of the front trousers is ironed; pulling and ironing the rear trousers piece: the stretching amount of 8.0-10 cm of back crotch portion is drawn out to the settlement, and according to the protrusion degree of buttock, 8.0 cm can be selected for the protrusion is little, 10cm can be selected for the protrusion greatly, and the back part flatiron trend is S line and returns to draw and iron in putting out seam line both sides, follows the folding back trousers piece of putting out seam line and presses back trousers piece curvature putting out seam line.
Preferably, in step (1), the front pants pieces are cut, comprising:
(1.1) determining the length of the trousers, the hip circumference, the waist circumference and the size of the opening of the trousers, selecting cloth, wherein the long edge of the cloth is-4.0 +4.0+1.0 of the length of the trousers, the wide edge of the cloth is 4+4.0+2.0cm of the hip circumference, and the wide edge of the folded cloth is doubled to form a double layer;
(1.2) drawing the front crotch part: one end point of a long side of the cloth is used as a crotch length point a, a small crotch point b is set on the long side, ab is hip circumference/4 +1.0+1.0cm, a crotch standing point c and a front opening point d are set on a front piece, cb is perpendicular to the long side and is half hip circumference/10-1.0 cm, cd is parallel to ba and is half hip circumference/10 +2.5cm, bd is connected, a perpendicular line is made from the point c to the point bd to be crossed to the point e, the ce length is trisected, one third point close to the point e on ce is connected with the small crotch point b and the front opening point d by an arc line to form a small crotch radian, cd is prolonged to be crossed with a wide side to the point f, the point f is set as a straight crotch point, the arc line connection point f, one third point of a line segment, d and b form a front arc line;
(1.3) drawing a trouser pipeline: setting the other end point of the long edge of the cloth as a trouser length outer starting point h, setting a trouser length inner starting point g on the wide edge, wherein gh is 1/2-trouser opening/2 cm of the wide edge of the cloth, setting a hem outer point i on the long edge, setting a hem inner point j on the front trouser piece, ji is vertical to the long edge, hi and gj are the folding trouser edges of the front trouser piece and are connected with jb, setting a point k as a crotch point, a point k1 as a tightening trouser pipe point, a point k1 as the midpoint of a line segment jb, setting a point kk1 vertical to the line segment jb, connecting b, k1, j and g to form a trouser pipeline line, cutting double-layer cloth along the line, and cutting a layer of cloth along the front crotch arc line;
(1.4) drawing the front trouser sheet pleat: before unfolding, the trouser sheet draws the pleats at the waist, and the pleats 1 and 2 are set, wherein the width of the pleats 1 is equal to hip circumference/4-waistline/4-2.5 cm, the width of the pleats 2 is equal to hip circumference/4-waistline/4-3.0 cm, the woolen trouser length point w is an endpoint which corresponds to the point a in double folding and is not cut, and the distance between one endpoint of the pocket line and the woolen trouser length point w and the length of the pocket line are set so as to determine the intersection points of the pocket line and the long edge or the trouser leg line.
Preferably, the hi is gj, and the hi and gj are 3.5-4.0 cm in length. Wherein, the thin material can be selected to be 3.5 cm, and the thick material can be selected to be 4.0 cm.
Preferably, in step (2), the back piece is cut, comprising:
(2.1) drawing a back large crotch: by means of front piece bundle cutting, setting a back waist-girth large point n, wn being a back piece waist-girth large point, wn being a waist-girth/4 +4.0cm, setting a back warp point n1, n1n being perpendicular to the wide side, n1n being (hip girth/20-2.0)/2, setting a back hip girth base point m at a third of a line fc adjacent to c, m being a back hip girth base point, mm1 being parallel to the wide side, mm1 being the difference between the back piece hip girth bundle cutting on the front piece, connecting a line segment n1m1 and extending to a point of intersection with the front rail line and continuing to a crotch point l by a distance of (hip girth/20)/2, a line segment lo being drawn upward at the crotch point l, o point being a back crotch high point and being parallel to the wide side, line 5631 cm, setting a line segment o 7 point 1 being connected to the crotch point l, dividing the crotch point into three crotch angles 1, one third of the point close to the crotch point I is a crotch bending tangent point, and a rear large crotch radian is formed by connecting the m1, the crotch bending tangent point and the o point and is used for cutting a rear large crotch;
(2.2) drawing a crotch suture line: setting a rear trouser length outer starting point r, a rear trouser length inner starting point s, a rear folding edge outer point p and a rear folding edge inner point q by means of a front trouser piece, wherein rp and sq are used for widening a rear trouser opening, rp is equal to sq which is the trouser opening/2 + 2.0-a folded wool-like front trouser opening cm, the folded wool-like front trouser opening is equal to 1/2-gh of a wide edge of cloth, pq and rs are used for folding, the length of the front trouser piece folding trouser edge is equal to that of the front trouser piece, a rear crotch point t is positioned at the upper third of a line segment oq and close to an o point, tt1 is a tightening amount, tt1 is equal to half hip circumference/20-0.5, tt1 is vertical to oq, and o, t1 and q points are connected to form a rear trouser piece crotch sewing line for cutting the rear trouser piece;
(2.3) the outer oblique point p1 of the rear trouser opening is the increasing amount of the outer point p of the rear folding edge, and is used for obliquely cutting the rear trouser opening, the waist line of the rear trouser sheet is wn1, and the outer side line of the rear trouser sheet is the same as that of the front trouser sheet;
(2.4) setting a dart at the back waist opening, wherein the dart is positioned at the center of the back waist opening (the central line of the triangle is vertical to the waist opening line), and drawing the dart into a triangle.
Preferably, the mm1 is hip circumference/20-4.5 cm.
Preferably, the dart is 10-2.0cm long and 10-0.2cm wide.
Preferably, the pp1 ═ (hip circumference/20-2.0)/2 cm.
Preferably, in step (3), the bottom barrier and the knee girth are cut into silk depending on the front and rear trousers pieces, comprising:
(3.1) cutting the knee leg surrounding silk, which is shorter than the bottom edge of the front trousers piece by a certain distance;
(3.2) cutting the bottom blocking cloth according to the crotch of the rear trousers piece, setting the distance between the point 1 and the point n1 and the distance between the point o and the point 2, and connecting the point 1 and the point 2 by adopting a curve;
(3.3) the knee leg welt silk is manufactured on the bottom edge, ironed and buckled for a distance, the raised edge is sewn at the position corresponding to the trouser opening, no seam is leaked on the front side of the trousers, the knee leg welt silk is set to be adhered to the front trouser piece, and other three edges except the waist line are overlooked by adopting overlock stitches;
(3.4) buckling and reversing the bottom blocking cloth at the radian for ironing, setting the bottom blocking cloth to be attached to the crotch of the rear trouser piece, sewing by using a raised edge, preventing stitches from leaking on the front side of the trousers, overlocking the rear trouser piece and the bottom blocking cloth, and overlocking the other three edges except the waist line;
(3.5) adopting a binding process for the crotch back camber, setting the binding width, and matching the length with the crotch back length;
(3.6) cutting the bottom blocking cloth and the knee surrounding silk by using the down yarns, wherein the material of the knee surrounding silk is cut by using the weft yarns, the material of the bottom blocking cloth is cut by using the oblique yarns, and the pre-shrinking treatment is carried out before the down yarns are cut.
Preferably, the distance between the point "1" and the point "n 1 is 15 cm, and the distance between the point" o "and the point" 2 "is 15 cm.
Preferably, the ironing process parameters are as follows: the pressure is 30-98 kpa, the temperature is 160 ℃, and the time is 10 s.
The trousers cutting, ironing and pressing manufacturing method solves the problem of low individual fitness of the manufacturing process and has the following advantages:
the invention adopts a trousers cutting, pressing and ironing manufacturing technology, and the method has the characteristics of flexible cutting, simple method, high cutting efficiency, clear ironing skill, suitability for individual body type, strong size and the like;
(1) the method of the invention adopts a cloth folding mode to cut the front trousers pieces, stacks the cut trousers pieces on the basis of the cut front trousers pieces, the cutting structural diagrams are drawn by hairline, the bottom blocking cloth and the knee wrap silk are cut on the cut front trousers pieces and the cut rear trousers pieces in a copying way, and are fixed on the trousers pieces by utilizing a selvage raising needle method and a binding process to form a protective layer, and the front trousers pieces and the rear trousers pieces are manually pulled out and ironed to process the three-dimensional shapes of the trousers pieces, so that the trousers are more in line with the personalized body shape;
(2) the method of the invention can better solve the three-dimensional modeling of the trousers, can meet the wearing requirements of different body types, has lower production cost, and has artistic effect and aesthetic feeling;
(3) the method of the invention adopts a folding method to cut the front trousers pieces quickly, the back trousers pieces are cut by the aid of the front trousers pieces in a stacking manner, drawing and cutting efficiency is greatly improved, and the trousers pieces are ironed by adopting a manual ironing technology to realize three-dimensional drawing and ironing, so that the height of the trousers pieces to the body is improved, and the trousers pieces have the characteristics of easy operation, cutting, ironing treatment, low manufacturing cost and the like.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a rectangular structure of the cloth of the present invention.
Figure 2 is a schematic view of the folding of the inventive fabric.
Fig. 3 is a schematic illustration of a small crotch drawing of the present invention.
FIG. 4 is a drawing of the first side seam and the top seam of the pants of the present invention.
FIG. 5 is a second drawing of the top and side seams of the present invention.
FIG. 6 is a schematic side seam cut of a front panel of the present invention.
FIG. 7 is a schematic view of the present invention cutting a fly.
Fig. 8 is a schematic drawing of a pleat of the present invention.
Figure 9 is a pictorial view of a rear panel of the present invention.
Figure 10 is a schematic view of the present invention for cutting a knee girth.
Fig. 11 is a schematic diagram of the bottom cloth of the present invention.
Fig. 12 is a schematic view of a bottom edge trimming and ironing process of the knee welt silk.
Figure 13 is a schematic view of the bottom edge curling of the knee wrap of the present invention.
FIG. 14 is a schematic view of the hemming process of knee panels and pants pieces of the present invention.
FIG. 15 is a schematic view of the cutting and ironing of the back panel bottom flaps of the present invention.
FIG. 16 is a schematic view of the back panel, bottom gusset overlock and back crotch piping stitching of the present invention.
FIG. 17 is a drawing and ironing schematic diagram of the front pants piece of the present invention.
FIG. 18 is a second drawing and ironing schematic diagram of the front pants piece of the present invention.
FIG. 19 is a drawing and ironing schematic diagram of the rear pants piece of the present invention.
FIG. 20 is a second drawing and ironing schematic diagram of the rear piece of pants of the present invention.
FIG. 21 is a schematic perspective view of front and back panels of the present invention.
FIG. 22 is a schematic view of a rear panel crotch binding process of the present invention.
Reference numbers: a trouser length point a; a small crotch point b; rise point c; a front fly point d; a rise point f; the outer starting point h of the length of the trousers; starting point g in the length of the trousers; folding outer points i; an inner point j of the folded edge; a crotch point k; tightening the trouser leg point k 1; the rear waist circumference midpoint n; back warp point n 1; a posterior hip circumference base point m; posterior hip circumference maximum point m 1; a crotch point l; the back crotch height point o; the outer starting point r of the rear trouser length; starting point s of the back trouser length; the outer point p of the rear folded edge; the inner point q of the rear folded edge; a rear crotch point t; the rear rise pinch point t 1; the outer oblique point p1 of the back trouser opening.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
A method for making trousers by cutting, ironing and pressing comprises the following steps:
(1) cutting the front trouser piece, cutting the inner and outer side seams of the trouser legs in a cloth folding mode in a woolen shape, and cutting the trouser legs by opening the small crotch;
(2) cutting the rear trousers pieces by a front trousers piece stacking cutting method;
(3) the bottom blocking cloth and the knee circumference are cut into silk by depending on the front and the rear trousers pieces;
(4) the trousers piece is pulled out and ironed, the front trousers piece is pulled out and ironed and the back trousers piece is pulled out and ironed respectively, the appearance curve of the trouser legs of the front trousers piece which is pulled out and ironed is smaller than that of the back trousers piece, and the pulling-out amount of the back trousers piece at the back crotch is larger.
The invention adopts a cloth folding mode to cut the front piece of trousers, stacks the cut pieces of trousers on the basis of the cut pieces of trousers, draws the cutting structure chart by the hairline, and uses the bottom blocking cloth and the knee wrap silk to cut on the cut pieces of trousers in a copying way, and fixes the cut pieces of trousers on the basis of the edge raising needle method and the overlocking process to form the protective layer. The three-dimensional shape of the front and rear trousers pieces is processed by manual drawing and ironing, so that the trousers are more in line with the personalized body shape, and the above technologies are implemented in the cutting of the woollen materials. The invention improves the cutting efficiency by folding and stacking cutting methods of the front and the back trouser pieces, and the heat treatment of the trouser pieces by manual drawing ironing is beneficial to the individualized manufacture of high-grade woolen materials.
(1) Front piece cutting process
As shown in FIGS. 1-8, the drawing tailoring process (taking model No. 170/76A as an example) for front pants of the present invention is as follows:
the sizes of all parts of the trousers are set, for example, the size of 170/76A, the length of the trousers is 103 cm, the hip circumference is 100 cm, the waist circumference is 78 cm, the mouth of the trousers is 22 cm, the sizes of different men's trousers are 160/68A, 165/72A, 170/76A, 175/80A and 180/84A, and the size difference of two adjacent sizes of the men's trousers is as follows: the trousers have the length difference of 3 cm, the hip circumference difference of 4.0cm, the waist circumference difference of 4.0cm and the opening difference of 1.0cm, and are used for cutting trousers of different sizes.
The length and width of the cloth are set, as shown in fig. 1, the long side of the cloth is 104 cm (calculation method: long side-4.0 +4.0+1.0 of the trousers length size), the wide side is 31 cm (wide side-4 +4.0+2.0 of the hip circumference), and the cloth is folded, and the wide side of the cloth is folded to form a double layer, with the front side of the cloth inside and the back side outside, as shown in fig. 2.
As shown in fig. 3, a crotch length point a (which is an end point of the long side), a small crotch point b, a crotch point c (cb is perpendicular to the long side), a flap point d (cd is parallel to the long side), a crotch ab (27 cm) (calculation method: hip circumference/4 +1.0+1.0), a small crotch height cb (4.0 cm) (calculation method: half hip circumference/10-1.0), a crotch bending length cd (6.5 cm) (calculation method: half hip circumference/10 +2.5) are set, the crotch is drawn, cb is perpendicular to cd, and bcd forms a right triangle, ce is perpendicular to the hypotenuse bd, the ce length is trisected, and a point on the ce, which is near the e point, is connected with the small crotch point b and the flap point d by an arc line to form a small crotch.
As shown in fig. 4, extending cd, crossing the wide side at point f, setting point f as the rise point, setting the outer starting point h (the other end of the long side), the inner starting point g (on the wide side), the outer folding point i (on the long side), and the inner folding point j (ji perpendicular to the long side); wherein the starting point g of the inner part of the trouser length is used for determining the size of the trouser mouth and is h 4.5cm away from the starting point h of the outer part of the trouser length (the calculation method is 1/2-trouser mouth/2 of the wide edge of the cloth); the outer folding point i and the inner folding point j are used for folding the edge of the trousers, and hi is set to be 4.0cm, and ij is set to be 4.5cm (calculating method of the starting point g in the length of the trousers); setting a point k as a crotch point, a point k1 as a trouser leg tightening point, setting a point k1 at the center of a line segment jb, setting kk1 to be vertical to the line segment jb, setting the value range of kk1 to be 1.0-2.0 cm, using the line to shape different trouser legs, connecting b, k1, j and g by an arc line to form a trouser leg line, and cutting the line, as shown in fig. 5 and 6.
The front crotch portion is cut by cutting an arc line consisting of a point f, a lower third point of the line ce, and d and b into a cloth layer, as shown in fig. 7.
The front pants-piece gather setting, unfolding the front pants-piece gather drawing at the waist, as shown in fig. 8, set the gather 1 and the gather 2, the gather 1 width is 3.0cm (calculation method: hip circumference/4-waist circumference/4-2.5), the gather 2 width is 2.5cm (calculation method: hip circumference/4-waist circumference/4-3.0), the pocket line end point is 4.0cm from the wool pants length point w (i.e., the end point of the long side not cut, corresponding to point a when folding), the length is 22 cm.
(2) Process for cutting back piece of trousers
As shown in fig. 9, the rear piece is formed by cutting the front piece, and a rear waistline large point n, a rear warping point n1, a rear hip circumference base point m, a rear hip circumference large point m1, a crotch point l, a rear crotch high point o, a rear trouser length outer starting point r, a rear trouser length inner starting point s, a rear folding edge outer point p, a rear folding edge inner point q, a rear crotch point t, a rear crotch tightening point t1 and a rear trouser mouth outer oblique point p1 are set for drawing and cutting the rear piece.
Wn is set as the waist circumference of the rear panel is large and 23.5 cm (calculation method: waist circumference/4 +4.0), nn1 is set as the back warp and 1.5 cm (calculation method: hip circumference/20-2.0)/2). Setting a third position (the lower third position of the vertical crotch of the front trousers piece) on the line fc, which is adjacent to the point c, at the m point of the base point of the back hip circumference, wherein the mm1 is 0.5 cm which is the difference of the hip circumference of the back trousers piece piled and cut on the front trousers piece and is used for adjusting the inclination of the line of the back crotch.
The connecting line segment n1m1 is extended to form an intersection with the front crosspiece line, and is extended to the crotch point l by a distance of 2.5cm (calculated as (hip circumference/20)/2). The lo line segment is set to be drawn upward at the crotch point l, and lo is parallel to the wide side, and lo is 10cm (calculation method: hip circumference/10). The point o1 is set to be at the midpoint of the line segment om1 and connected with the crotch point l to form a corner dividing line lo1, the corner dividing line lo1 is divided into three equal parts, one third of the point close to the crotch point l is a crotch bending tangent point, and the connecting point m1, the crotch bending tangent point and the point o form a rear large crotch radian for cutting a rear large crotch.
And setting a rear trouser opening to be drawn and cut depending on the front trouser opening, setting rp and sq to widen the rear trouser opening, wherein the value is rp ═ sq ═ 4.0cm (the calculation method is that the trouser opening/2 + 4.0-folded wool-like front trouser opening and the folded wool-like front trouser opening are 1/2-gh ═ 11cm of the wide edge of the cloth). And setting pq and rs as hem, wherein pq is equal to rs, and rs is equal to 4.0.
The rear crotch point t is positioned at one third of the line segment oq close to the point o, tt1 is the tightening amount, tt1 is perpendicular to oq, the value of tt1 is 2.0cm (the calculation method is that half hip circumference/20-0.5), and the point o, t1 and the point q are connected to form a rear trouser patch lower crotch seam line for cutting the rear trouser patch.
The rear trouser mouth outer oblique point p1 is the increment of the rear folding edge outer point p, and the pp1 is set to be 1.5 cm, and is used for obliquely cutting the rear trouser mouth. The waist line of the back panel is wn1 and the outside line of the back panel is the same as the front panel. A dart road is set at the back waist opening, the dart road is positioned at the center of the back waist opening, the length of the dart road is 8.5 cm, the width of the dart road is 2.0cm, and the dart road is drawn into a triangle.
(3) Cutting process of bottom blocking cloth and knee surrounding silk
As shown in figure 10, the knee girth fabric is cut, and is cut according to the front trouser piece, and is shorter than the bottom edge of the front trouser piece by 15 cm.
As shown in figure 11, the bottom blocking cloth is cut, and compared with the crotch of the back trousers piece, the distance n1 between the point 1 and the point 2 is set to be 15 cm, the distance o between the point 1 and the point 2 is set to be 15 cm, and the point 1 and the point 2 are connected by a curve. Specifically, the bottom 1 point and the bottom 2 point are connected by a line segment, a vertical line of the bottom 1 bottom 2 line segment is made at 1/2 of the bottom 1 bottom 2 line segment, the length of the vertical line is 11cm, and the curvature is drawn by connecting the bottom 1 point and the bottom 2 point by 11 cm.
As shown in figures 12 and 13, the knee cap silk is made at the bottom edge of the trousers, is ironed and buckled for 1.0cm, is hemmed and sewn at the position corresponding to the opening of the trousers, and is preferably free from the stitches on the front side of the trousers. The leg band silk was set to fit the front piece of pants, and as shown in fig. 14, the other three sides except the waist line were welt-stitched by overlock stitching.
As shown in figure 15, the bottom blocking cloth is ironed by being buckled down by 1.0cm at the radian, the bottom blocking cloth is set to be attached to the crotch part of the rear trousers pieces, the raised edges are adopted for sewing, and the front side of the trousers is preferably free from stitches. As shown in figure 16, the back piece and the bottom piece are overlooked, and the other three edges except the waist line are overlooked.
As shown in fig. 22, the crotch back camber is performed by a binding process using a binder to bind, setting the binding width to 3.0cm, folding the binding in half along the length, folding the two sides of the binding back by 0.7 cm, holding the crotch of the back pants, binding the binding with a bias thread cutting down feather material, setting the binding width to 0.8 cm, and matching the length with the crotch back length.
The bottom blocking cloth and the knee surrounding silk are both cut by adopting the feather yarns, the material of the knee surrounding silk is cut by weft yarns, the material of the bottom blocking cloth is cut by oblique yarns, and the feather yarns are preshrinked before being cut. Compared with beautiful silk, the cost of the down-feather is easy to reduce, the down-feather warp is made of artificial silk (filament fiber) thick yarn, the weft is made of cotton fiber thin yarn, the surface of the material is smooth, stiff, smooth and flat, the shrinkage is small, and the fabric is easy to be attached.
(4) Trousers piece ironing process
As shown in fig. 17, the front pants pieces are pulled out and ironed, the front pants pieces are pulled in and the side buttock peripheries are pulled in, the knees of the pants are pulled out from inside to outside, the trend of the iron is S-line, and the front pants pieces are pulled out and ironed on two sides of the seam line. Ironing process parameters are as follows: a pressure of 30-98 kpa (0.3 kgf/cm)2～1kgf/cm2) Temperature 160 deg.C, time 10 s.
As shown in fig. 18 and 21, the front trousers piece is pulled back and forth to enable the inner and outer side seams of the trousers piece to be approximately straight lines, the front trousers piece is folded along the seam line and the front piece curvature seam line is ironed, the front belly part of the curvature seam line after ironing is convex, the knee is concave, and the outer side seam is straight.
As shown in fig. 19 to 21, the rear pants piece is pulled back and back to make the inside and outside seams of the pants piece approximate to a straight line, the pull-out length of the rear crotch part is set to be 10cm, the front pants piece is folded along the holding-out line and the curvature holding-out line of the rear pants piece is ironed, the rear hip part of the ironed curvature holding-out line is convex, the knee is concave, and the outside seams are straight.
As shown in figure 22, in the process of trimming the crotch part of the back trousers, a trimming device is adopted for trimming, the width of a trimming cloth strip is set to be 3.0cm, the trimming cloth strip is folded along the length, two sides of the cloth strip are folded back by 0.7 cm again, the crotch part of the back trousers is clamped for trimming, the trimming cloth strip adopts a feather yarn material for oblique thread cutting, and the length is matched with the length of the back crotch.
While the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the above description should not be taken as limiting the invention. Various modifications and alterations to this invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the foregoing description. Accordingly, the scope of the invention should be determined from the following claims.
Claims (10)
1. A method for making trousers by cutting, ironing and pressing is characterized in that the method comprises the following steps:
(1) cutting the front trouser piece, cutting the inner and outer side seams of the trouser legs in a cloth folding mode in a woolen shape, and cutting the trouser legs by opening the small crotch;
(2) cutting the rear trousers pieces by a front trousers piece stacking cutting method;
(3) the bottom blocking cloth and the knee circumference are cut into silk depending on the front and the rear trousers pieces, and are fixed on the front trousers pieces and the rear trousers pieces by adopting a selvage raising needle method and a binding process to form a protective layer;
(4) the front trouser piece and the back trouser piece are pulled and ironed;
wherein, the front trouser pieces are ironed by pulling: the front opening of the trousers and the hip circumference of the side edges are retracted, the knees of the trousers are pulled out from inside to outside, the trend of an iron is S-line, the retraction ironing is carried out on the two sides of the straightening line, the front trousers are folded along the straightening line and the curvature straightening line of the front trousers is ironed; pulling and ironing the rear trousers piece: the stretching amount of the rear crotch portion which is pulled out by 8.0-10 cm is set, the rear piece iron runs on the S line, the ironing and pressing are carried out on two sides of the seam line, and the rear piece is folded along the seam line and the curved seam line of the rear piece is ironed.
2. The method for making trousers cutting, ironing and pressing according to claim 1, wherein in the step (1), the front trousers piece cutting comprises:
(1.1) determining the length of the trousers, the hip circumference, the waist circumference and the size of the opening of the trousers, selecting cloth, wherein the long edge of the cloth is-4.0 +4.0+1.0 of the length of the trousers, the wide edge of the cloth is 4+4.0+2.0cm of the hip circumference, and the wide edge of the folded cloth is doubled to form a double layer;
(1.2) drawing the front crotch part: one end point of a long side of the cloth is used as a crotch length point a, a small crotch point b is set on the long side, ab is hip circumference/4 +1.0+1.0cm, a crotch standing point c and a front opening point d are set on a front piece, cb is perpendicular to the long side and is half hip circumference/10-1.0 cm, cd is parallel to ba and is half hip circumference/10 +2.5cm, bd is connected, a perpendicular line is made from the point c to the point bd to be crossed to the point e, the ce length is trisected, one third point close to the point e on ce is connected with the small crotch point b and the front opening point d by an arc line to form a small crotch radian, cd is prolonged to be crossed with a wide side to the point f, the point f is set as a straight crotch point, the arc line connection point f, one third point of a line segment, d and b form a front arc line;
(1.3) drawing a trouser pipeline: setting the other end point of the long edge of the cloth as a trouser length outer starting point h, setting a trouser length inner starting point g on the wide edge, wherein gh is 1/2-trouser opening/2 cm of the wide edge of the cloth, setting a hem outer point i on the long edge, setting a hem inner point j on the front trouser piece, ji is vertical to the long edge, hi and gj are the folding trouser edges of the front trouser piece and are connected with jb, setting a point k as a crotch point, a point k1 as a tightening trouser pipe point, a point k1 as the midpoint of a line segment jb, setting a point kk1 vertical to the line segment jb, connecting b, k1, j and g to form a trouser pipeline line, cutting double-layer cloth along the line, and cutting a layer of cloth along the front crotch arc line;
(1.4) drawing the front trouser sheet pleat: before unfolding, the trouser sheet draws the pleats at the waist, and the pleats 1 and 2 are set, wherein the width of the pleats 1 is equal to hip circumference/4-waistline/4-2.5 cm, the width of the pleats 2 is equal to hip circumference/4-waistline/4-3.0 cm, the woolen trouser length point w is an endpoint which corresponds to the point a in double folding and is not cut, and the distance between one endpoint of the pocket line and the woolen trouser length point w and the length of the pocket line are set so as to determine the intersection points of the pocket line and the long edge or the trouser leg line.
3. The method for cutting, ironing and manufacturing trousers according to claim 2, wherein hi-gj is provided, and the lengths of hi and gj are 3.5-4.0.
4. The method for making trousers cutting, ironing and pressing according to claim 1, wherein in the step (2), the back trousers piece cutting comprises:
(2.1) drawing a back large crotch: by means of front piece bundle cutting, setting a back waist-girth large point n, wn being a back piece waist-girth large point, wn being a waist-girth/4 +4.0cm, setting a back warp point n1, n1n being perpendicular to the wide side, n1n being (hip girth/20-2.0)/2, setting a back hip girth base point m at a third of a line fc adjacent to c, m being a back hip girth base point, mm1 being parallel to the wide side, mm1 being the difference between the back piece hip girth bundle cutting on the front piece, connecting a line segment n1m1 and extending to a point of intersection with the front rail line and continuing to a crotch point l by a distance of (hip girth/20)/2, a line segment lo being drawn upward at the crotch point l, o point being a back crotch high point and being parallel to the wide side, line 5631 cm, setting a line segment o 7 point 1 being connected to the crotch point l, dividing the crotch point into three crotch angles 1, one third of the point close to the crotch point I is a crotch bending tangent point, and a rear large crotch radian is formed by connecting the m1, the crotch bending tangent point and the o point and is used for cutting a rear large crotch;
(2.2) drawing a crotch suture line: setting a rear trouser length outer starting point r, a rear trouser length inner starting point s, a rear folding edge outer point p and a rear folding edge inner point q by means of a front trouser piece, wherein rp and sq are used for widening a rear trouser opening, rp is equal to sq which is the trouser opening/2 + 2.0-a folded wool-like front trouser opening cm, the folded wool-like front trouser opening is equal to 1/2-gh of a wide edge of cloth, pq and rs are used for folding, the length of the front trouser piece folding trouser edge is equal to that of the front trouser piece, a rear crotch point t is positioned at the upper third of a line segment oq and close to an o point, tt1 is a tightening amount, tt1 is equal to half hip circumference/20-0.5, tt1 is vertical to oq, and o, t1 and q points are connected to form a rear trouser piece crotch sewing line for cutting the rear trouser piece;
(2.3) the outer oblique point p1 of the rear trouser opening is the increasing amount of the outer point p of the rear folding edge, and is used for obliquely cutting the rear trouser opening, the waist line of the rear trouser sheet is wn1, and the outer side line of the rear trouser sheet is the same as that of the front trouser sheet;
(2.4) setting a dart at the back waist opening, wherein the dart is positioned at the center of the back waist opening and is drawn into a triangle.
5. The method for making trousers cutting, ironing and pressing according to claim 4, wherein said mm1 is hip circumference/20-4.5 cm.
6. The method for making trousers according to claim 4, wherein the dart is 10-2.0cm long and 10-0.2cm wide.
7. The method for making trousers with cutting, ironing and pressing according to claim 4, characterized in that said pp1 ═ hip circumference/20-2.0)/2 cm.
8. The method for cutting, ironing and making trousers according to claim 1, wherein in the step (3), the bottom blocking cloth and the knee circumference are cut into silk depending on the front and rear trousers pieces, comprising:
(3.1) cutting the knee leg surrounding silk, which is shorter than the bottom edge of the front trousers piece by a certain distance;
(3.2) cutting the bottom blocking cloth according to the crotch of the rear trousers piece, setting the distance between the point 1 and the point n1 and the distance between the point o and the point 2, and connecting the point 1 and the point 2 by adopting a curve;
(3.3) the knee leg welt silk is manufactured on the bottom edge, ironed and buckled for a distance, the raised edge is sewn at the position corresponding to the trouser opening, no seam is leaked on the front side of the trousers, the knee leg welt silk is set to be adhered to the front trouser piece, and other three edges except the waist line are overlooked by adopting overlock stitches;
(3.4) buckling and reversing the bottom blocking cloth at the radian for ironing, setting the bottom blocking cloth to be attached to the crotch of the rear trouser piece, sewing by using a raised edge, preventing stitches from leaking on the front side of the trousers, overlocking the rear trouser piece and the bottom blocking cloth, and overlocking the other three edges except the waist line;
(3.5) adopting a binding process for the crotch back camber, setting the binding width, and matching the length with the crotch back length;
(3.6) cutting the bottom blocking cloth and the knee surrounding silk by using the down yarns, wherein the material of the knee surrounding silk is cut by using the weft yarns, the material of the bottom blocking cloth is cut by using the oblique yarns, and the pre-shrinking treatment is carried out before the down yarns are cut.
9. The method for making trousers cutting, ironing and pressing according to claim 8, wherein the distance between the point "n 1" at the bottom 1 point is 15 cm, and the distance between the point "o" at the bottom 2 point is 15 cm.
10. The method for making trousers cutting, ironing and pressing according to claim 1, wherein the ironing process parameters are as follows: the pressure is 30-98 kpa, the temperature is 160 ℃, and the time is 10 s.
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN115919001A (en) * | 2022-10-24 | 2023-04-07 | 江苏红豆实业股份有限公司 | Process for improving waist fit degree of casual pants |
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| CN111820490B (en) | 2023-02-28 |
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Effective date of registration: 20240522 Address after: Room 201, Building 1, No. 767 Tianshan 1st Road, Jimo District, Qingdao City, Shandong Province, 266000 Patentee after: Qingdao Aida Fashion Design Co.,Ltd. Country or region after: China Address before: No.1 Xijing Road, Chang'an District, Xi'an City, Shaanxi Province 710100 Patentee before: XIJING University Country or region before: China |