CN112385912B - Male suit with organic cotton half-lining binding and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention provides a method for manufacturing an organic cotton half-lining binding men's suit, which comprises the following steps: plate making on a plane; primarily correcting the plane angle; selecting grey cloth or alternative fabric with corresponding thickness as base cloth for three-dimensional cutting according to different fabric properties, completely drawing a sample on the grey cloth, cutting, fixing by using a needle blank, and placing on a mannequin for further fine adjustment; cloth matching lining cloth and part sample plate; and (5) according to the further corrected plane plate making and part sample plate arranging mark frame, cutting, sewing and ironing the sample clothes. The invention also provides the men's suit with the organic cotton half lining rolled edge, after the cotton slivers of the traditional thick and heavy hard lining shoulder, chest cotton and sleeves of the suit are removed, the problem that the parts of the chest, the front shoulder and the sleeves are deformed and the parts of the sleeves are obliquely lock and the sleeve mountains are too much eaten to form broken creases which are possibly generated is solved through the special improvement of the model, so that the suit is soft, light, comfortable, still has stable contour and is durable.

Description

Male suit with organic cotton half-lining binding and manufacturing method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of garment manufacturing, in particular to an organic cotton half-lining binding men's suit and a manufacturing method thereof.

Background

With the improvement of living standard, people pay more and more attention to wearing details, and particularly for business people who often appear in various formal occasions, a suit is necessary. In the prior art, the raw materials for making men's western-style clothes mainly comprise blended wool, thick and complicated inner structures of chest linings, shoulder pads and sleeves and slivers are used as supports in the making process, and lining cloth and pocket cloth are chemical fiber fabrics which are not environment-friendly enough. But the template is not suitable for the requirements of the light men's suit which takes the organic cotton as lining cloth and eliminates the traditional complex auxiliary materials, and the process adopted by the traditional manufacturing method is not suitable for the cutting of the organic cotton half-lining men's suit.

Through search, patent document CN102440447A discloses a sewing method of a half-lining suit and a half-lining suit, the internal structure of the suit in the prior art does not actually contain lining cloth, but a structure of the complete suit is formed by splicing a fine dried surface widened to an armhole and a large body. This patent provides only an improvement to the sewing process, namely, a special sewing treatment to improve the aesthetic appearance of the exposed seam. The method is only one of the technical improvement schemes, and does not provide a related scheme of the plate type improvement.

Patent document CN10672343B discloses a method for cutting sleeves of a suit and a suit, which includes a process of converting one sleeve into two sleeves, a process of preparing a sleeve plate by using the two sleeves, and a process of cutting sleeves by using the sleeve plate to assist in cutting the sleeves, wherein different warp yarns are set on the large sleeve plate and the small sleeve plate in the sleeve plate, the area of the broken end yarn of the small sleeve plate is larger, and the small sleeve plate is easier to stretch and elongate than the large sleeve plate, and the suit can be made by cutting out symmetrical left and right sleeves according to the above method and splicing the sleeves to the body of the suit. The prior art has the defects that the prior art only adopts a process of converting one sleeve into two sleeves and a process of preparing a sleeve plate by using the two sleeves. The purpose is to make the suit sleeve with the buckling effect, and the buckling effect is the bending of the sleeve below the elbow and towards the inner part of the sleeve. The sleeve is really characterized by the traditional suit sleeve, is not suitable for all fabric styles and process types, is particularly not suitable for light and thin drooping fabrics, and cannot solve the problem that longitudinal oblique locks are easily generated under the condition that lining auxiliary materials with good shaping effect are lacked in the traditional suit sleeve. Patent document CN102551243B discloses a sewing method of a suit for women and a suit for women, which are only suitable for suit for women and cannot solve the problem of the process of the type existing on the suit for men, although the suit is also a suit type without a chest lining and shoulder pads.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention aims to provide an organic cotton half-lining binding men's suit and a manufacturing method thereof. Starting from two aspects of template optimization and process improvement, a method for manufacturing the light men's suit which is suitable for taking organic cotton as lining and eliminates the traditional complex auxiliary materials is sought.

The invention provides a method for manufacturing a men's suit with organic cotton half-lining binding, which comprises the following steps:

step 1: plate making on a plane;

step 2: preliminarily correcting the plane angle;

and step 3: selecting grey cloth or alternative fabric with corresponding thickness as base cloth for three-dimensional cutting according to different fabric properties, completely drawing a sample on the grey cloth, cutting, fixing by using a needle blank, and placing on a mannequin for further fine adjustment;

and 4, step 4: cloth lining and part sample plate;

and 5: and (5) according to the further corrected plane plate making and part sample plate arranging mark frame, cutting, sewing and ironing the sample clothes.

Preferably, the preliminary correction in step 2 includes:

adjusting shoulder inclination: the sum of the included angle of the front shoulder and the included angle of the back shoulder is adjusted to be 37.2-37.5 degrees;

adjusting the front floating allowance: the amount of the anterior superficial is measured by skimming the chest, and the skimming of the chest is adjusted to be between 1.5cm and 2cm.

Preferably, the preliminary correction in step 2 further includes a sleeve forward rake angle correction, which includes a correction of the forward rake angle e and a correction of the forward bend angle f.

Preferably, the correction of the anteversion angle e: the circle center of the forward-leaning included angle e is 1/2 of the high position of the sleeve, the first boundary line is vertical to the ground, the included angle e between the second boundary line and the third boundary line is the forward-leaning amount of the sleeve, the second boundary line and the third boundary line are intersected with the sleeve elbow line, and the distance j between the intersection points of the two boundary lines is adjusted to be 0.6-1.2cm.

Correction of the forward bend included angle f: the circle center of the front-bending included angle f is positioned on the intersection point of the second boundary line of the included angle e and the sleeve elbow line, the middle point position of the lower end of the third boundary line in 1/2 cuff size L is taken as a starting point, and the numerical value k obtained by intersection of the horizontal line and the second boundary line is adjusted to be between 2cm and 3 cm.

Preferably, the preliminary correction in step 2 includes an armhole-draught correction: the sleeve top draft of the fabric with a loose structure is adjusted to be 2.4-3cm, and the sleeve top draft of the fabric with a tight structure is adjusted to be 1.8-2.5cm. The fabric with compact structure is similar to cotton plain weave or worsted wool; the fabric with a looser structure is similar to textile fibers.

Preferably, the sleeve cap eating vigor is adjusted by adjusting the sleeve cap height g, the sleeve fat h and the horizontal width i of the sleeve cap height position of 1/2.

Preferably, in the step 3, the radian of the sleeve top arc is finely adjusted by 0.1-0.3cm in the stereo cutting process.

Preferably, the lining cloth in the step 4 comprises a lining structure and lining cloth made of lining materials, wherein the lining structure adopts a half lining, and the lining material adopts organic cotton lining cloth.

Preferably, the finishing ironing in the step 5 uses 40S or 60S organic cotton which is washed by water as a binding material, wraps and rolls all the exposed seam parts of the shell fabric, and then stitches the seam in the middle) and then separately irons the two pieces of shell fabric after respectively binding and seaming;

the hemming hidden pry is used for the fraying of the lower hem cuff, the organic cotton lining cloth is stretched to the bottom of the front lower hem, the side lower hem and the cuff without a seat, the shell fabric is turned over to iron the seam allowance, and the fraying of the seam allowance is finished by hemming the fraying.

According to the invention, the organic cotton half-lining binding men's suit comprises:

the sum of the included angle of the front shoulder and the included angle of the back shoulder is 37.2-37.5 degrees; the front floating allowance is 1.5-2cm;

the circle center of the forward inclination included angle e is 1/2 of the high position of the sleeve, the first boundary line is vertical to the ground, the included angle e between the second boundary line and the third boundary line is the forward inclination amount of the sleeve, the second boundary line and the third boundary line are intersected with the sleeve elbow line, and the distance j between the intersection points of the three lines is adjusted to be 0.6-1.2cm;

the center of the front-bending included angle f is positioned on the intersection point of the second boundary line of the included angle e and the sleeve elbow line, the position of the lower end of the third boundary line at the middle point of 1/2 cuff size L is taken as a starting point, and the numerical value k obtained by intersection of the horizontal line and the second boundary line is adjusted to be 2-3 cm;

the sleeve ridge eating tendency of the fabric with a loose structure is 2.4-3cm, and the sleeve ridge eating tendency of the fabric with a tight structure is 1.8-2.5cm.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

1. the raw materials adopted by the invention are very environment-friendly, the lining cloth and the binding material are selected from organic cotton lining cloth which is processed by water washing and ensures the removal shrinkage, and the lining cloth is selected from washable woven lining, so that the lining cloth is light, thin, stable and wear-resistant.

2. The invention has full activity, no redundant folds and smooth and beautiful interior under the improvement of the lining layout method and the improvement of the organic cotton edge rolling process.

3. After the traditional thick and heavy hard lining shoulder pads, breast cotton and sleeve cotton slivers are removed, the problem that inclined locks at the chest part, the front shoulder part and the sleeve part are deformed and excessive sleeve mountains are caught and creased is solved through special improvement of the model, so that the suit is soft, light, comfortable, still has stable contour and is durable.

Drawings

Other features, objects and advantages of the invention will become more apparent upon reading of the detailed description of non-limiting embodiments with reference to the following drawings:

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a modification of the large body size according to the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a schematic representation of an important dimensional definition of a sleeve according to the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a modified version of the sleeve of the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of a large-size cloth sample plate marked with seams and ironing parts according to the present invention;

FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of a sample cloth pattern for sleeves with marked seams and ironing portions according to the present invention;

FIG. 6 is a schematic view of a method for preparing a pattern on a large body lining cloth according to the present invention;

FIG. 7 is a schematic view of the present invention illustrating slitting and backstitching;

FIG. 8 is a rear side seam view of the present invention;

FIG. 9 is a schematic view of the cutting of the organic cotton rolled strips in the present invention;

FIG. 10 is a schematic view of a conventional piping cut;

FIG. 11 is a schematic view of a hidden pry for binding a lower hem of a rear panel in the invention;

FIG. 12 is a schematic view of a hidden pry for binding the scattered edges of the cuffs of the front and side panels and the case of using organic cotton as lining cloth according to the present invention.

In the figure:

Detailed Description

The present invention will be described in detail with reference to specific examples. The following examples will assist those skilled in the art in further understanding the invention, but are not intended to limit the invention in any way. It should be noted that variations and modifications can be made by persons skilled in the art without departing from the concept of the invention. All falling within the scope of the present invention.

As shown in fig. 1-9, 11 and 12, the invention provides an organic cotton half-lining binding men's suit and a manufacturing method thereof, which starts with the sample plate optimization and the process improvement and seeks for a manufacturing method of a light men's suit which takes organic cotton as lining cloth and eliminates the traditional complex auxiliary materials. The template optimization is mainly realized by modifying a plane template and selecting grey cloth with the hand feeling close to the actual fabric to perform three-dimensional cutting correction. The process improvement mainly refers to designing an internal process structure which is most suitable for the half lining of the lining cloth with the organic cotton binding, and the lining cloth is matched with the internal process structure which is different from the traditional method.

The invention provides a method for manufacturing an organic cotton half-lining binding men's suit, which comprises the following steps:

step 1: carrying out plane plate making;

step 2: and performing preliminary correction on the plane angle, including: adjusting shoulder inclination: the sum of the included angle of the front shoulder and the included angle of the back shoulder is adjusted to be 37.2-37.5 degrees; adjusting the front floating allowance: the amount of the front floating is measured by skimming the chest, and the skimming of the chest is adjusted to be between 1.5 and 2cm; correcting the front inclination angles of the sleeves, wherein the correction of the front inclination angles of the sleeves comprises correcting a front inclination included angle e and correcting a front bending included angle f.

Further, for the correction of the forward-tilting angle e, the circle center of the forward-tilting angle e is 1/2 of the sleeve top position, the first boundary line 303 is perpendicular to the ground, the angle e between the second boundary line 304 and the third boundary line 305 is the forward-tilting amount of the sleeve, the second boundary line 304 and the third boundary line 305 intersect with the sleeve elbow line 306, and the distance j between the intersection points of the three lines is adjusted to be 0.6-1.2cm.

Aiming at the correction of the front curve included angle f, the circle center of the front curve included angle f is positioned on the intersection point of the second boundary line 304 and the sleeve elbow line 306 of the included angle e, the position of the lower end of the third boundary line 305 at the middle point of 1/2 cuff size L is taken as a starting point, and the numerical value k obtained by the intersection of the horizontal line and the second boundary line 304 is adjusted to be between 2cm and 3 cm.

The sleeve-top eating vigor is adjusted by adjusting the height g of the sleeve-top, the sleeve fertilizer h and the horizontal width i of the height position of 1/2 of the sleeve-top. Aiming at the correction of the sleeve hill draft, the sleeve hill draft of the fabric with a looser structure is adjusted to be between 2.4 and 3cm, and the sleeve hill draft of the fabric with a compact structure is adjusted to be between 1.8 and 2.5cm. The fabric with compact structure is similar to cotton plain weave or worsted wool; a fabric with a looser structure is similar to a textile fiber.

And 3, step 3: selecting grey cloth (thick white blank, thin white blank, 60s organic cotton and 40s organic cotton) with corresponding thickness or substitute fabric as base cloth for three-dimensional cutting according to different fabric properties, drawing a net sample on the grey cloth, placing 1.5-2cm of sewing head, cutting, fixing by using a needle to separate blanks, and placing on a mannequin for further fine adjustment; the main direction of adjustment mainly aims at the stiffness, the extension degree and the deformation degree which can be presented by the fabrics with different thicknesses to carry out artificial correction, and then the fine adjustment numerical values on the plate types of different fabrics are obtained. The radian of the sleeve top arc is finely adjusted by 0.1-0.3cm in the process of stereo cutting.

And 4, step 4: cloth is joined in marriage interior cloth and spare part model, and cloth is joined in marriage interior cloth and is joined in marriage the cloth of cloth including structure and the face in material and join in marriage, and the structure adopts half lining in the face, and the material adopts organic cotton lining cloth in the face.

And 5: according to the further corrected plane plate making and part sample plate arranging mark frame and cutting, sewing and ironing the sample clothes, wherein the ironing uses 40S or 60S organic cotton which is washed as the material of the binding strip, all the exposed surface cloth seams are wrapped and rolled, and two pieces of back middle seams 410 are respectively rolled and seamed and then are separately ironed to two sides; the binding hidden pry is used for binding the scattered openings of the lower hem cuffs, the organic cotton lining cloth is stretched to the bottom of the front lower hem, the side lower hem and the cuffs without a seat, the surface cloth is turned over to be ironed, and then the edges of the seams are polished by scattered opening binding.

Furthermore, the shoulder inclination of the traditional men's suit, i.e. the sum of the front shoulder inclination angle a and the back shoulder inclination angle b, is usually about 38 degrees for the adjustment of the shoulder inclination and the front floating allowance. The greater the included angle, the greater the clearance between the suit first lateral neck points 101 and 102 and the standard human body lateral neck point. In the case of discarding the excess massive auxiliary material with supporting action, the angle needs to be reduced to between about 37.2 and 37.5 degrees. The angle c is the main point of dispersion of the anterior buoyancy margin and can be measured as the chest d in the figure. The front floating allowance is the excessive amount of the front coat body above the chest line after the longitudinal front center line 103, the transverse chest line 104 and the waist line 105 of the coat body are respectively covered with the mannequin. The breast skimming is that the front part is distributed with front floating allowance in a mode of forming an included angle c by local rotation, the front middle line deviates in the rotation process, and an offset value d is formed on the horizontal position of the neckline. The chest cast of the traditional men's business suit is usually 2.5-3cm, and the chest cast of the men's business suit can be reduced by 1/3-1/2 to 1.5-2 cm.

When the sleeves of the traditional men's suit are sleeved, a relatively obvious forward-tilting angle e exists between the sleeves and the vertical direction of the large body, the circle center of the forward-tilting angle e is 1/2 of the position of the high part of the sleeve mountain (the center of the sleeve mountain), the first boundary line 303 is vertical to the ground, and the angle e between the second boundary line 304 and the third boundary line 305 is the forward-tilting amount of the sleeves. The second and third lines 304, 305 intersect the sleeve elbow line 306, and the distance between the intersections is generally around 1.5cm, as indicated by the value j, which is reduced in the present invention to a value of 0.6-1.2cm.

The lower half of the sleeve of the traditional men's suit has a more obvious forward bending tendency, and the forward bending degree depends on the size of the included angle f. The center of the angle f is at the intersection of the second boundary 304 of the angle e and the sleeve elbow line 306. The third boundary 305 is the left boundary of the angle e. The lower end of the third boundary line 305 thereof is at the midpoint of 1/2 cuff size L. The present invention uses the point as the starting point to measure the value k obtained by the intersection of the horizontal line and the second boundary line 304. The throwing value k of the traditional men's suit is usually more than 3cm, and the suit of the invention adjusts the value to be between 2 and 3 cm. The reduction of the two angle values of the sleeve panels e and f can solve the problems that the sleeves cannot be forward inclined according to the expected angle of the template and instead droop to form oblique locks under the conditions of no horsetail lining support, insufficient stiffness and overlarge drapability of the fabric. Therefore, the edition adjustment of the invention is more suitable for the lightweight men's suit which is not supported by complex auxiliary materials and has light, thin and soft fabric.

Furthermore, the armhole eating tendency is the difference between the arc length of the upper half arc of the armhole and the length of the corresponding part of the large armhole 106. The tradition suit of non-wide shoulder style has the sleeve cap with the draught of 3.6-4cm, and the suit of the invention can correspondingly reduce and adjust the numerical value according to the type of the used fabric. Corresponding to the 175/96 size, namely the 48-size, the ideal armhole 106 of the invention has the arc length of 53-55cm, which is reduced by 1-2cm compared with the traditional shoulder-pad men's western-style clothes, and is equivalent to the reduction of twice of the thickness value of one shoulder pad. The ideal size of the sleeve fertilizer h is 38-39.4cm, which is reduced by 0.6-2.2cm compared with the traditional men's suit. The height and width dimension i of the sleeve cap 1/2 of the invention is 19.5-20cm, which is about 0.5cm smaller than the traditional men's suit. The ideal sleeve height of the invention is between 17.2 and 19cm, the change of the ideal sleeve height is mainly increased and decreased along with the increase and decrease of the arc length of the corresponding armhole, and the ideal sleeve height is 0.5 to 1cm smaller than that of the traditional men's business suit and is equivalent to the cancelled shoulder pad thickness. Traditional sleeve silver has been cancelled to this patent men's suit, consequently connects sleeve and the sleeve mountain part of big body not have the auxiliary material that can supply to support, can not too plump form with women's suit's princess's sleeve. In this case, if the men's business suit is eaten in the amount of the conventional men's business suit, there is a problem that the men's business suit is too much to eat, and the men's business suit is not ironed and flattened. It is necessary to reduce the amount of draft by the above-mentioned size adjustment. The draught of the fabric with a looser structure is between 2.4 and 3cm, and the draught of the fabric with a compact structure (similar to cotton plain weave or worsted wool) is further reduced to 1.8 to 2.5cm (note: the draught value here only refers to the sleeve top part) within the range, so that the top shape of the sleeve top of the light men's suit without shoulder pads, ponytail linings and sleeve slivers can be ensured to be natural, smooth and flat, and not to be covered by thick bulges.

Continuing further, the selection of the base fabric for the blank in step 3 is exemplified by: for example, thick white grey cloth can be selected for stiff, thick and solid cotton, hemp and wool, thin white grey cloth can be selected for thin worsted wool and combed cotton cloth, and if the fabric has particularly good drape, organic cotton lining cloth can also be selected. The correction of the model in the step 3 is mainly to trim the most ideal sleeve hill arc line shape after determining the draught amount according to the fabric characteristics in the vertical cutting process. The shape of the armhole arc line is influenced by the shape of the armhole arc line, and fine adjustment of the concave-convex degree of 0.1-0.3cm is usually required to be carried out on the arc degree according to vertical cutting for achieving perfect matching.

The lining cloth layout method in the step 4 is different from a surface lining structure of a traditional all-lining men's suit, the half-lining men's suit only has the inner cloth completely covered on the inner sides of the front piece surface 401, the side piece surface 402 and the big sleeve piece surface 201 of the big body, the surface is spliced with the surface, the seam is split and ironed 601, the inner and the inner are spliced, the inverse seam is ironed 602, the lining cloth is sewn mutually (the back surface of the lining cloth can not be seen after sewing), only the upper half part of the back piece surface 403 of the big body has the lining cloth fixed with the big body (the part of the back piece sleeve hole 406 of the collar circle 405 behind the shoulder seam 404) and is in a semi-open type (the back surface cloth can not be seen), and the exposed seam splicing of the lining cloth such as the back side seam 407, the back middle seam 410, the hem 411 and the cuffs 412 (the lining cloth is selected by organic cotton) are polished by rolling edges.

The lining cloth matching method of the men's suit different from the traditional chemical fiber material as lining cloth is as follows: the cotton lining cloth has stable cloth surface, is firm and resistant to dragging, does not need redundant activity, is basically matched with the surface cloth except for areas with larger activity, such as the back and the bottom of an armhole, and does not need to make any movable pleat or seat to increase the activity of the lining cloth so as to prevent the damage caused by stress and dragging. For example, the side panel surface 402 and the side panel inner surface 503 may be substantially identical in shape. In principle the total area is approximately uniform even if the shapes are not uniform. For example, the front panel 401 is approximately equal to the sum of the front liner 502 and the facing 501. The rear lining 504 layout method takes the right rear lining as an example, the sizes of the right shoulder seam 404 and the rear collar 405 are kept consistent with the shell fabric, and the rear lining activity amount o is rotated to be about 0.6-1.2cm in the rear-middle direction by taking the right neck point 102 and the right shoulder point 506 as the centers. The left shoulder seam width m is about 4cm (not limited to 4 cm) and is close to or as wide as the noodle shoulder seam width p. The width n of the back side seam is about 5cm from the armhole to the bottom, the connecting line of the back side seam and the left shoulder seam is used as a symmetrical line 507, and the symmetrical line 507 is a void part after being folded. The left piece and the right piece of the back lining are symmetrical and are crossed in a splayed shape, and the stay wire loops close to the symmetrical line 507 cross points between the lining cloth are fixed at the back middle sewing head of the surface cloth. The main edge joint seam does not need to be widened additionally, and the seam is kept consistent with the shell fabric. The preferable numerical values of the seams of the fabric are as follows: the seam of the sleeve opening 412 of the lower hem 411 is 4cm wide, the seam of the rear middle seam 410 of the rear side seam 407 with the edge rolling is 1.2cm wide, and the seam of the other parts comprises 1cm of the seam 505 of the fine dried noodles 501 and the front lining 502. The preferred values of the lining seams are as follows: the seam allowance of the lower hem cuff is 0cm, the seam allowance of the side lining 503 is 4071.2cm, the seam allowance of the front lining 502 is 106 cm, and the seam allowance of the arm hole is 1.5cm, wherein 0.5cm is used as the trimming amount during sewing. When silk fabric is selected in the sleeve, the seam allowance of the large sleeve seam 301 and the small sleeve seam 302 is 1.2cm, wherein 0.2cm is the seat potential, and the seam allowance is still kept to be 1cm under the condition of selecting organic cotton. The rest parts are pieced together for 1cm. The above values are only illustrative and not restrictive of the preferred embodiments of the present invention, and especially the seam is placed on the opposite side, and the value can be adjusted according to the characteristics of the fabric, for example, the fabric with a looser structure can prevent the seam from opening, and the seam can be widened to 1.2-1.5 cm. According to different design requirements of the lower hem and the cuffs, the width of the seam allowance can be adjusted to be 2.6-6cm, and the seam allowance is within a reasonable range.

The ironing part comprises a front panel 401 and a chest overlapping layer, an armhole and a lower hem of a side panel 402, a slit of a back panel 403, a collar and collar lining, a fine dried noodle 501, a cuff and sleeve slit, a bag cover surface, a bag insert line and a bag opening position. Wherein the parallel distance between the overlap ironing lining part of the chest part of the front piece and the lapel fold line 408 is 1cm, and a straight silk traction belt 409 with the width of 1cm is added at the position flush with the edge opening and is used for returning the lapel fold line and leaving the corresponding position of the fixed fine dried noodles to be hidden prized. The areas of the lower hem, the cuffs, the hem cuts, the sleeve cuts and the like are covered with 1cm of the turning lines in parallel.

Continuing to explain further, the method has two sewing process characteristics in the fifth step:

the first is to use 40S or 60S organic cotton through washing water as the material of the binding strip, all exposed fabric seams are wrapped and rolled, and the left piece and the right piece of the back center joint 410 are respectively rolled and stitched and then are separately ironed on two sides. The back side seam 407 is patched and ironed separately, wherein the back side seam of the back sheet is the welt 701, the back side seam lining is reversed to the front side and the side sheet surface cloth is hooked, see fig. 8. The binding 801 is a cloth strip for wrapping and rolling the cloth edge of the fabric. The organic cotton with the width q of 2.4-2.8cm is obliquely cut in the direction of 45 degrees at the included angle r between the normal direction 802 and the cloth cover, the number of the organic cotton is adjusted according to the thickness of the fabric, 40S is selected for the conventional thickness and thick material, and 60S is selected for the especially light and thin fabric. And (3) the width of the rolling strip is 2.4cm in the conventional thickness and thin materials, and the width q of the rolling strip is widened to 2.6-2.8cm in the thick materials according to the thickness of the fabric, so that the width s of the finished package is about 0.6 cm. For clarity, the strip 807 of the fabric edge finishing package roll is referred to as the border 701. As shown in fig. 10, the relation between the finish width s and the roll width q in the conventional case is q =4s. The distance t between the fixed battens and the pressing line of the fabric is 0.1cm.

Secondly, a hidden prying process for the opening-scattering border of the lap cuff is shown in fig. 11 and fig. 12. According to the invention, the organic cotton lining cloth is stretched to the bottom without leaving a base at the positions of the front lower hem, the side lower hem and the sleeve openings, the shell fabric is turned over and ironed to be a seam part, and then the fabric edges of the seam part are polished by using the scattered edge rolling. The opening-scattering binding is as shown in fig. 12, namely, the binding at the inner side (the side which can not be seen) of the sewing head does not need to refract light, the binding at the outer side (the side which can be seen) of the sewing head refracts light, the distance t between the pressing line and the edge of one side of the refracting light is 0.1cm, and the pressing line is fixedly penetrated through the binding cloth at the two sides and the cloth binding cloth edge of the surface cloth. The binding 701 and the lining 1101 are fixed at the same level height hidden pry 1001 at the binding and crimping position (within the range u of not more than 0.2cm up and down). The back piece lower hem has no lining cloth, and as shown in fig. 10, the binding 701 is directly fixed with the surface cloth 1002 by hidden prying. The process is the preferred design of the patent, and the edge rolling and opening scattering has the advantages of reducing the thickness and simplifying the manufacturing steps. The hidden pry has the advantages that the stitches can not be seen on the surface, and the appearance is clean and attractive, but the hidden pry is not limited to the hidden pry. According to design requirements, the hidden pry can be replaced by an exposed line, namely the folded and ironed seam part and the large shell fabric lining are fixedly penetrated.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages: the raw materials (especially lining cloth and lining materials) are very environment-friendly, the lining cloth and the binding material are selected from organic cotton lining cloth which is processed by washing and ensures the removal shrinkage, and the lining material is selected from washable woven lining, so that the lining cloth is light, thin, stable and wear-resistant. Under the improvement of the lining cloth layout method and the improvement and application of the organic cotton edge rolling process, the novel organic cotton fabric has sufficient activity and no redundant wrinkles, and is level and beautiful in interior. After the traditional thick and heavy hard lining shoulder, chest cotton and sleeve cotton slivers of the ready-made suit are removed, the problem that inclined locks are deformed at the positions of the chest, the front shoulder and the sleeves and the sleeve mountains are too much eaten to form broken folds which are possibly generated is solved through special improvement of the model, so that the ready-made suit is soft, light and comfortable, still has stable contour and is durable and durable.

In the description of the present application, it is to be understood that the terms "upper", "lower", "front", "rear", "left", "right", "vertical", "horizontal", "top", "bottom", "inner", "outer", and the like indicate orientations or positional relationships based on those shown in the drawings, and are only for convenience in describing the present application and simplifying the description, but do not indicate or imply that the referred device or element must have a specific orientation, be constructed in a specific orientation, and be operated, and thus, should not be construed as limiting the present application.

The foregoing description of specific embodiments of the present invention has been presented. It is to be understood that the present invention is not limited to the specific embodiments described above, and that various changes or modifications may be made by one skilled in the art within the scope of the appended claims without departing from the spirit of the invention. The embodiments and features of the embodiments of the present application may be combined with each other arbitrarily without conflict.

Claims (4)

1. A method for manufacturing men's suits by binding organic cotton half linings is characterized by comprising the following steps:

step 1: carrying out plane plate making;

step 2: primarily correcting the plane angle;

and step 3: selecting grey cloth or alternative fabric with corresponding thickness as base cloth for three-dimensional cutting according to different fabric properties, completely drawing a sample on the grey cloth, cutting, fixing by using a needle blank, and placing on a mannequin for further fine adjustment;

and 4, step 4: cloth matching lining cloth and part sample plate;

and 5: arranging and cutting the mark frame according to the further corrected plane plate making and part sample plate, and sewing and ironing the sample clothes;

the lining cloth in the step 4 comprises a lining structure and lining cloth, wherein the lining structure adopts a half lining structure, and the lining cloth adopts organic cotton lining cloth;

in the step 5, the finishing ironing uses 40S or 60S organic cotton which is washed by water as a binding material, all exposed fabric seams are wrapped and rolled, and two pieces of back centre joints (410) are respectively rolled and seamed and then are separately ironed at two sides;

aiming at the scattered openings of the cuffs of the lower hem, using a binding hidden pry, stretching the organic cotton lining cloth to the bottom of the front lower hem, the side lower hem and the cuffs without leaving a seat, turning the surface cloth to iron the seams, and polishing the edges of the seams by using scattered opening binding;

the preliminary correction in the step 2 comprises the following steps:

adjusting shoulder inclination: the sum of the included angle of the front shoulder and the included angle of the back shoulder is adjusted to be 37.2-37.5 degrees;

adjusting the front floating allowance: measuring the amount of the anterior superficial part by skimming the chest, and adjusting the skimming of the chest to be between 1.5 and 2cm;

the preliminary correction in the step 2 further comprises correction of a sleeve forward inclination angle, wherein the correction of the sleeve forward inclination angle comprises correction of a forward inclination included angle e and correction of a forward bending included angle f;

correcting the forward inclination angle e: the circle center of the forward inclination included angle e is 1/2 of the high position of the sleeve, the first boundary line (303) is vertical to the ground, the included angle e between the second boundary line (304) and the third boundary line (305) is the forward inclination amount of the sleeve, the second boundary line (304) and the third boundary line (305) are intersected with the sleeve elbow line (306), and the distance j between the intersection points of the two lines is adjusted to be 0.6-1.2cm;

and (3) correcting the forward bending included angle f: the circle center of the front-bending included angle f is positioned on the intersection point of the second boundary line (304) of the included angle e and the sleeve elbow line (306), the middle point position of the lower end of the third boundary line (305) in 1/2 cuff size L is taken as a starting point, and the numerical value k obtained by the intersection of the horizontal line and the second boundary line (304) is adjusted to be between 2cm and 3 cm;

the preliminary correction in the step 2 comprises correction of sleeve hill draught: the sleeve top draft of the fabric with a loose structure is adjusted to be 2.4-3cm, and the sleeve top draft of the fabric with a tight structure is adjusted to be 1.8-2.5cm;

the fabric with compact structure is cotton plain weave or worsted wool; the fabric with a looser structure is textile fiber.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the sleeve-top eating condition is adjusted by adjusting the height g of the sleeve-top, the thickness h of the sleeve, and the horizontal width i of the height position of 1/2 of the sleeve-top.

3. The method of claim 1, wherein the step 3 of trimming the arc of the cuff arc is fine-tuned to a depth of 0.1-0.3cm during the stereo-cut process.

4. An organic cotton half-piping men's suit characterized in that the method for manufacturing the organic cotton half-piping men's suit according to any one of claims 1 to 3 is adopted, comprising:

the sum of the included angle of the front shoulder and the included angle of the back shoulder is 37.2-37.5 degrees; the front floating allowance is 1.5-2cm;

the circle center of the forward inclination included angle e is 1/2 of the high position of the sleeve, the first boundary line (303) is vertical to the ground, the included angle e between the second boundary line (304) and the third boundary line (305) is the forward inclination amount of the sleeve, the second boundary line (304) and the third boundary line (305) are intersected with the sleeve elbow line (306), and the distance j between the intersection points of the two is adjusted to be 0.6-1.2cm;

the center of the forward-bent included angle f is positioned on the intersection point of a second boundary line (304) of the included angle e and a sleeve elbow line (306), the position of the lower end of a third boundary line (305) at the middle point of 1/2 cuff size L is taken as a starting point, and the numerical value k obtained by the intersection of the horizontal line and the second boundary line (304) is adjusted to be between 2cm and 3 cm;

the sleeve ridge eating tendency of the fabric with a loose structure is 2.4-3cm, and the sleeve ridge eating tendency of the fabric with a tight structure is 1.8-2.5cm; the fabric with compact structure is cotton plain weave or worsted wool; the fabric with a loose structure is textile fiber;

the cloth lining cloth comprises a lining structure and a lining material, wherein the lining structure adopts a half lining, and the lining material adopts an organic cotton lining cloth.

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