CN115919001A - Process for improving waist fit degree of casual pants - Google Patents
Process for improving waist fit degree of casual pants Download PDFInfo
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- CN115919001A CN115919001A CN202211300147.3A CN202211300147A CN115919001A CN 115919001 A CN115919001 A CN 115919001A CN 202211300147 A CN202211300147 A CN 202211300147A CN 115919001 A CN115919001 A CN 115919001A
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 33
- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 87
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 39
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 18
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000004696 Poly ether ether ketone Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920002530 polyetherether ketone Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 7
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 10
- 210000003128 head Anatomy 0.000 description 5
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 3
- 206010053615 Thermal burn Diseases 0.000 description 2
- 238000005034 decoration Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000003796 beauty Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000001217 buttock Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000008602 contraction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000002391 femur head Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 210000002758 humerus Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000003780 insertion Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000037431 insertion Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000002414 leg Anatomy 0.000 description 1
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- 239000011087 paperboard Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000011160 research Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000006850 spacer group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
The invention discloses a process for improving waist fit degree of casual pants, which comprises the following steps in sequence: ironing elastic waist lining: ironing the elastic waist lining on the waist cloth, and performing preshrinking and shaping by using a press after ironing; waist combining surface: sewing the elastic waist lining on the waist cloth; ironing waist head: placing the waist surface cloth with the waist lining on an ironing table according to the shape of an arc, and ironing the upper mouth of the waist; after the waistband is ironed, shaping by a press; and (3) waist head mounting: after the trousers pieces are placed flatly, the upper middle waist line in front of the trousers pieces is drawn, the waist is placed on the trousers pieces and then ironed, and then the trousers pieces are shaped by a secondary press; in the step S2, the draught of the whole waist surface is 2cm. According to the invention, through technological means, particularly, the draft of the waist surface is controlled, the ironing amount of the upper opening of the waistband is controlled, the draft of the waist of the trousers piece is controlled, and the fit degree of the waist of the casual trousers is effectively improved at relatively low cost through twice press forming, so that the effects of attractiveness and comfort are achieved.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of casual pants, in particular to a process for improving waist fitness of casual pants.
Background
The business men's leisure pants are indispensable single articles worn by young and middle-aged business men in daily life, and have quite large and stable market space. With the increasing economic level and the increasing consumption level, the demands of consumers on the aesthetic appearance and wearing comfort of casual pants are also increased. The waist is one of the process key parts of the casual pants and has great influence on the wearing effect. The prior art does not have a technical means for solving the problem, and the patent with the publication number of CN 111165981A: a universal method for precisely making plate on clothes includes such steps as using the rotation and deflection angle data of human body to make plate on clothes, using the measuring bench to construct three-dimensional coordinate system to obtain the three-dimensional coordinates of human body's characteristic points, using the humerus head and femur head as rotation axis, the inclination angles of neck and chest, nape, back and waist and hip as deflection angles, using the three-dimensional coordinates and angle data as planar characteristic points, connecting the characteristic points by proper curves, drawing body contour or clothes contour on paperboard, and drawing basic template. The method realizes that the clothes made by men or women with different shapes have good fit degree by a plate making method. In addition, the influence of ironing on the pattern is well known in the art, the industry has a colloquial expression of 'three-slit seven-minute ironing', the prior art also has the influence of ironing on the pattern of the western style pants, see a paper 'influence research on the pattern of the combined western style pants by ironing' published in Gao Yunbing of the triple academy of Anhui on 'garment science' at the 2 nd 4 th 2017 (4 th month): the shaping effect of the fit western style pants is obtained by analyzing the processes of 'returning, pulling and pushing' of a plurality of important parts of the front and rear pants pieces, so that the appearance is more stereoscopic, for example, for dead folds on the western style pants, the dead folds are firstly returned to be hot, then the fold tips are pushed to be flat at the fold tips on the back, and the pants are worn on a human body to be in accordance with the body state through the combination of the 'returning' and 'pulling' processes, so that the stereoscopic impression is obtained, and the curve of the human body is beautiful. And to front and back piece plane cut-parts being sat and enclosing (buttockss enclose) outer piece seam department present evagination arc, through "returning" and "pulling out" the combination of technology, can accord with human body form, can not appear sitting and enclose the department and not have sufficient loose volume (fat vigor), and can appear the swell phenomenon in human both sides, concrete mode is: ironing the radial cloth grain at the convex arc line part of the hip circumference line, reducing the convex arc line into a straight line, pushing the redundant amount (fat state) to the hip circumference direction, and making the cloth grain at the position 3.0-4.0 cm close to the edge of the abutted seam be a straight grain flat shape; because the contraction treatment is not carried out on the inner side of the hip circumference, the yarns are relatively long, and certain loose parts are inevitably formed. However, the existing return ironing adopts a mold with a fixed shape, so that the adaptability is poor, and the return ironing requirement cannot be completely met.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects in the prior art and provide a process for improving the fit degree of the waist of casual pants, which can effectively improve the fit degree of the waist of casual pants at relatively low cost by a process means so as to achieve the effects of beauty and comfort.
In order to achieve the purpose, the technical scheme of the invention is to design a process for improving the waist fit degree of casual pants, which comprises the following steps in sequence:
s1: ironing elastic waist lining: ironing the elastic waist lining on the waist cloth, and performing preshrinking and shaping by using a press after ironing;
s2: waist combining surface: sewing the elastic waist lining on the waist cloth;
s3: ironing waist head: placing the waist surface cloth with the waist lining on an ironing table according to the shape of an arc, and ironing the upper mouth of the waist; after the waistband is ironed, shaping by a press;
s4: and (3) waist head mounting: after the trousers pieces are placed flatly, the upper middle waist line in front of the trousers pieces is drawn, the waist is placed on the trousers pieces and then ironed, and then the trousers pieces are shaped by a secondary press;
in the step S2, the draught of the whole waist surface is 2cm. The fit degree of the waist of the casual pants can be effectively improved at relatively low cost through a technological means, and the effects of attractiveness and comfort are achieved.
The further technical scheme is that the step S1 is as follows: the back side of the waist cloth is upward and placed on an ironing table, and the waist cloth is ironed and leveled by an iron and is back-stitched; the elastic waist lining is opposite to the back side of the waist surface cloth, is arranged in the middle of the waist surface cloth, is straight in silk locks, and is pre-shrunk by an over-pressing machine after being ironed by an iron. The radian of the upper opening of the waist is smooth and natural, and the lining is firm and smooth and does not bubble.
The further technical scheme is that the step S2 is as follows: putting the waist cloth on a machine table with the front side facing upwards, and pressing the elastic waist lining on the waist cloth with the front side facing upwards; the waist lining edge and the waist surface cloth edge are arranged in parallel, the waist lining is 0.3cm away from the waist surface cloth edge, the sewing position is a flat seam of 1.6cm, the elastic waist lining belt is tight, the whole waist surface has 2cm of water, the right waist surface cloth is 9cm away from the front middle point, and the left waist lining is aligned to the front middle point. The waist seam allowance is required to be even in width, the stitch is beautiful and flat, and no wiring or breakage is required.
The further technical scheme is that the step S3 is as follows: putting the waist surface of the folded waist on an ironing table according to the shape of an arc, treading on the air suction, ironing and flattening the two surfaces according to the radian, ironing the upper opening of the whole waist by 3-4 cm, and shaping by a press, wherein the width of the seam allowance of the waist surface is consistent. The radian of the waist opening is required to be smooth, the width of the seam allowance is consistent, and the waist head is required to be smooth.
The further technical scheme is that the step S4 is as follows: the length of the waist of the trousers is adjusted, the length of the waist of the trousers is compared with the cutter eyes, and the front sides of the trousers pieces are placed upwards and leveled; the zipper is pulled, the door inner front is laid flat, the left waist opening and the right waist opening are in the same height, and the middle-upper waist line in front of the trousers piece is drawn;
and (3) waist-up: the front fly is put right, and the zipper is swung flat; the waistband is aligned with the upper waist of the trousers piece and drawn, the front middle point of the waistband is aligned with the inner and outer uniform rabbets of the front fly, the knife eye is aligned with a suture line which is 0.1cm away from the front middle point, the trousers loop is placed according to the knife eye position, and the trousers loop is ironed and shaped by a secondary press. The trousers waist flat clothing has accurate specification, symmetrical left and right trousers loops and consistent waist opening height at two sides.
The further technical scheme is that in the step S3, a return ironing die is adopted during return ironing;
the ironing die is made of polyether-ether-ketone resin materials, the ironing die and the waistband which is placed into an arc shape are arranged in a copying mode, and a cushion block is movably arranged at the position, located at the waistband ironing position, of the ironing die. Through the setting with the cushion that the mould activity of returning to boiling hot set up, can realize the difference of the waistband of similar size shape through the mode of changing different cushions and return to boiling hot processing, improved the adaptability of returning to boiling hot mould in this technology, need not like prior art, change just need change the mould of renewal a little.
The technical scheme is that the cushion block is also made of polyether-ether-ketone resin, the stamping die is provided with a slot for inserting the cushion block, the middle of one surface of the cushion block, which is far away from the stamping die, is provided with a recess, and one surface of the cushion block, which faces the stamping die, is provided with pins matched with the slot. The middle part of the cushion block is provided with the concave part to give the return ironing amount of the return ironing, so that the return ironing requirement is more met.
The pin is in a round table shape, the large-size end of the pin is far away from the ironing die, the slot is in a round groove shape, and the diameter of the slot is matched with that of the large-size end of the pin;
a cone sleeve in the shape of a round table groove is matched with the pin. The taper sleeves with different sizes of tapers can realize different heights of the cushion blocks, so that the adaptability of the return ironing die is improved.
The further technical scheme is that an outer taper sleeve is sleeved with the taper sleeve in a matched mode, and the surface of the outer taper sleeve is fixedly provided with an identification sticker. The outer taper sleeve can be sleeved with the outer taper sleeve with larger size, so that the height of the return ironing position of the return ironing die can be locally adjusted to meet the return ironing requirements in different return ironing amounts. The surface of the outer taper sleeve is fixedly provided with a mark paste to mark the return ironing amount or mark the height of the cushion block after the taper sleeve is threaded.
The inner side wall of the outer taper sleeve is provided with at least two annular grooves with the same shape and size, and the outer surface of the taper sleeve is provided with an annular bulge matched with the annular grooves; the circular ring bulge is made of elastic rubber. After setting up like this, can make earlier to participate in when returning to boiling hot and be located higher height, preliminary return scald back rethread flatiron push down the cushion and make the cushion move down to the protruding card of ring go back to next annular again return scald, can satisfy like this and gradually return the trousers type of scalding.
The invention has the advantages and beneficial effects that: through the setting with the cushion that the mould activity of returning to boiling hot set up, can realize the difference of the waistband of similar size shape through the mode of changing different cushions and return to boiling hot processing, improved the adaptability of returning to boiling hot mould in this technology, need not like prior art, change just need change the mould of renewal a little.
The outer taper sleeve can be sleeved with the outer taper sleeve with larger size, so that the height of the return ironing position of the return ironing die can be locally adjusted to meet the return ironing requirements in different return ironing amounts.
Can make earlier to participate in when returning to boiling hot and be located higher height, preliminary return is scalded back rethread flatiron and is pushed down the cushion and make the cushion move down and block the ring bulge card and return to boiling hot again behind the next annular, can satisfy the trousers type that gradually returns to boiling hot like this.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a first step in the process of improving the fit of the waist of casual pants according to the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the seam position between the waist cloth and the waist lining in the second step of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of the position relationship between the waist cloth and the waist lining in the second step of the present invention;
FIG. 4 is a schematic view of the third process of the present invention after the waistband has been ironed;
FIG. 5 is an expanded view of the waist and the leg pieces of the fourth process of the present invention;
FIG. 6 is a schematic view of the working condition of the ironing machine in the fourth step of the present invention;
FIG. 7 is a top view of the ironing die of the present invention;
FIG. 8 is a schematic view of the spacer of FIG. 7;
FIG. 9 is a bottom view of FIG. 8;
fig. 10 is an exploded view of the plug, the cone sleeve and the outer cone sleeve of fig. 9.
In the figure: 1. waist cloth; 2. a waist lining; 3. trousers pieces; 4. returning to a hot die; 5. cushion blocks; 6. recessing; 7. a pin; 8. a taper sleeve; 9. an outer taper sleeve; 10. a ring groove; 11. the circular ring is convex.
Detailed Description
The following description of the embodiments of the present invention will be made with reference to the accompanying drawings. The following examples are only for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention more clearly, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereby.
The invention relates to a process for improving fit degree of waist of casual pants, which is characterized in that the draft is controlled on the waist surface, the ironing amount is controlled on the upper opening of the waistband, the draft is controlled on the waist opening of a pants piece, and the casual pants piece is shaped by a press twice.
The process can be divided into four procedures, wherein the first procedure is to iron the elastic waist lining: the back side of the waist fabric 1 is upward and placed on an ironing table, and the fabric is ironed and leveled by an iron, and the threads are tied back to the original positions; the elastic waist lining 2 is opposite to the reverse side of the shell fabric, is placed in the middle of the shell fabric, is straightened, is ironed by an iron and then is pre-contracted by an over-pressing machine, and is shown in figure 1. The radian of the upper opening of the waist is required to be smooth and natural, the lining is firm and smooth, and no bubbles are generated.
The second procedure is that the waist is folded: the waist cloth 1 is horizontally placed on a machine table with the front side facing upwards, and the elastic waist lining (namely the waist lining 2) is pressed on the waist cloth 1 with the front side facing upwards; the waist lining is arranged in parallel with the waist surface at a distance of 0.3cm, the sewing position is a flat seam of 1.6cm, the elastic waist lining is tight, the whole waist surface has water of 2cm, the right waist cloth is 9cm away from the front middle point, and the left waist lining is aligned to the front middle point; as shown in fig. 2 and 3. The waist seam allowance is required to be even in width, the stitch is beautiful and flat, and no wiring or breakage is required.
The third procedure is to iron the waistband: putting the waist surface of the folded waist on an ironing table according to the shape of an arc, treading on the air suction, ironing and flattening the two surfaces according to the radian, ironing the upper opening of the whole waist by 3-4 cm, and shaping by a press, wherein the width of the seam allowance of the waist surface is consistent. As shown in fig. 4. The radian of the waist opening is required to be smooth, the width of the seam allowance is consistent, and the waist head is required to be smooth.
The fourth procedure is to go up the waistband: (1) The length of the trouser waist is compared with the length of the knife eye, and the trouser sheet 3 is placed flatly with the front side upward; the zipper is pulled well, the door inner front is laid flat, the left waist opening and the right waist opening are in the same straight height, and the middle-upper waist line in front of the trousers piece is drawn. (2) waisting: the front fly is put right, and the zipper is swung flat; the waistband is aligned with the upper waist of the trousers piece and drawn, the front middle point of the waistband is aligned with the inner and outer uniform rabbets of the front fly, the knife eye is aligned with a suture line which is 0.1cm away from the front middle point, the trousers loop is placed according to the knife eye position, and the trousers loop is ironed and shaped by a secondary press. As shown in fig. 6 and 5. The trousers waist flat clothing has accurate specification, the left and right trousers loops are symmetrical, and the waist openings at two sides have the same height. As shown in fig. 7 to 10 (for convenience of illustration, fig. 7 does not show insertion; fig. 9 does not show the ring grooves and the ring protrusions), in the third step, the ironing die 4 is used for ironing; the ironing die 4 is made of polyether-ether-ketone resin materials, the ironing die 4 and the waistband which is placed in an arc shape are arranged in a copying mode, and a cushion block 5 is movably arranged on the ironing die 4 at the position, located at the waistband ironing position. The cushion block 5 is also made of polyether-ether-ketone resin, a slot for inserting the cushion block 5 is formed in the return ironing die 4, a recess 6 is formed in the middle of one side, far away from the return ironing die 4, of the cushion block 5, and pins 7 matched with the slot are arranged on one side, facing the return ironing die 4, of the cushion block 5. The pin 7 is in a circular truncated cone shape, the large-size end of the pin 7 is far away from the ironing die 4, the slot is in a circular groove shape, and the diameter of the slot is matched with that of the large-size end of the pin 7; a cone sleeve 8 in the shape of a round table groove is matched with the pin 7. An outer taper sleeve 9 is sleeved on the taper sleeve 8 in a matched mode, and a mark sticker is fixedly arranged on the surface of the outer taper sleeve 9. At least two annular grooves 10 with the same shape and size are arranged on the inner side wall of the outer taper sleeve 9, and an annular bulge 11 matched with the annular grooves 10 is arranged on the outer surface of the taper sleeve 8 (as the taper sleeve and the outer taper sleeve are adopted, the size of the annular bulge is basically matched with the diameter of the annular groove above the annular bulge, so that a little force is needed when the conical bulge is pressed down); the circular ring bulge 11 is made of elastic rubber.
The working principle of the return ironing die is as follows:
when the pin is returned to the ironing state, the pin is firstly positioned at a higher height (namely, the pin is firstly inserted into the taper sleeve, then the taper sleeve is inserted into the outer taper sleeve, and the circular ring bulge of the taper sleeve is clamped with the circular groove above the taper sleeve), after the pin is preliminarily returned to the ironing state, the cushion block is pressed downwards by the iron to enable the cushion block to move downwards, so that the circular ring bulge on the taper sleeve is clamped to the next circular groove, and then the pin is returned to the ironing state, so that the requirement for gradually returning to the ironing state can be met; different ironing processing of the waistheads with similar sizes and shapes can be realized by replacing different cushion blocks.
The foregoing is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that, for those skilled in the art, various modifications and decorations can be made without departing from the technical principle of the present invention, and these modifications and decorations should also be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. The process for improving the fit degree of the waist of the casual pants is characterized by comprising the following steps which are carried out in sequence:
s1: ironing elastic waist lining: ironing the elastic waist lining on the waist cloth, and pre-shrinking and shaping by adopting a press after ironing;
s2: waist combining surface: sewing the elastic waist lining on the waist cloth;
s3: ironing waist head: placing the waist surface cloth with the waist lining on an ironing table according to the shape of an arc, and ironing the upper mouth of the waist; after the waistband is ironed, shaping by a press;
s4: and (3) waist head mounting: after the trousers pieces are placed flatly, the middle upper waist line in front of the trousers pieces is drawn, the waist is placed on the trousers pieces and then ironed, and then secondary pressing machine is used for shaping;
in the step S2, the draught of the whole waist surface is 2cm.
2. The process for improving the waist fit degree of casual pants according to claim 1, wherein the step S1 is as follows: the back side of the waist cloth is upward and placed on an ironing table, and the waist cloth is ironed and leveled by an iron and is back-stitched; the elastic waist lining is opposite to the back side of the waist surface cloth, is arranged in the middle of the waist surface cloth, is straight in silk locks, and is pre-shrunk by an over-pressing machine after being ironed by an iron.
3. The process for improving the waist fitness of casual pants according to claim 2, wherein the step S2 is: putting the waist cloth on a machine table with the front side facing upwards, and pressing the elastic waist lining on the waist cloth with the front side facing upwards; the waist lining edge and the waist surface cloth edge are arranged in parallel, the waist lining is 0.3cm away from the waist surface cloth edge, the sewing position is a flat seam of 1.6cm, the elastic waist lining belt is tight, the whole waist surface has 2cm of water, the right waist surface cloth is 9cm away from the front middle point, and the left waist lining is aligned to the front middle point.
4. The process for improving the fit degree of the waist of casual pants according to claim 3, wherein the step S3 is as follows: putting the waist surface of the folded waist on an ironing table according to the shape of an arc, treading on the air suction, ironing and flattening the two surfaces according to the radian, ironing the upper opening of the whole waist by 3-4 cm, and shaping by a press, wherein the width of the seam allowance of the waist surface is consistent.
5. The process for improving the fit degree of the waist of casual pants as claimed in claim 4, wherein the step S4 is: the length of the waist of the trousers is adjusted, the length of the waist of the trousers is compared with the length of the knife eye, and the front side of the trousers piece is placed upwards and leveled; the zipper is pulled, the door inner front is laid flat, the left waist opening and the right waist opening are in the same height, and the middle-upper waist line in front of the trousers piece is drawn;
and (3) waist-up: the front fly is put right, and the zipper is swung flat; the waistband clean line aligns with the upper waist line of the trousers piece, the front middle point of the waistband aligns with the inner and outer uniform rabbets of the front fly, the knife eye aligns with the suture line 0.1cm away from the front middle point, the trousers loops are placed according to the knife eye position, the trousers are ironed, and the trousers are shaped by a secondary press.
6. The process for improving the waist fit degree of casual pants according to claim 1 or 5, wherein in the step S3, a ironing die is adopted during ironing;
the ironing die is made of polyether-ether-ketone resin materials, the ironing die and the waistband which is placed in an arc shape are arranged in a copying mode, and a cushion block is movably arranged at the waistband ironing position on the ironing die.
7. The process for improving the fit degree of the waist of casual pants of claim 6, wherein the cushion block is also made of polyether-ether-ketone resin, the ironing die is provided with slots for inserting the cushion block, the middle part of one surface of the cushion block, which is far away from the ironing die, is provided with a recess, and one surface of the cushion block, which faces the ironing die, is provided with pins matched with the slots.
8. The process for improving the fit degree of the waist of casual pants as claimed in claim 7, wherein the pins are round-truncated-cone-shaped, the large-size ends of the pins are far away from the ironing die, the slots are round-slot-shaped, and the diameters of the slots are matched with the diameters of the large-size ends of the pins;
a cone sleeve in the shape of a round table groove is matched with the pin.
9. The process for improving the fit degree of the waist of casual pants as claimed in claim 8, wherein an outer taper sleeve is sleeved on the taper sleeve in a fitting manner, and a mark sticker is fixedly arranged on the surface of the outer taper sleeve.
10. The process for improving the fit degree of the waist of casual pants as claimed in claim 9, wherein the inner side wall of the outer taper sleeve is provided with at least two annular grooves with the same shape and size, and the outer surface of the taper sleeve is provided with an annular bulge matched with the annular grooves; the circular ring bulge is made of elastic rubber.
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| CN202211300147.3A CN115919001B (en) | 2022-10-24 | 2022-10-24 | Process for improving waist fit degree of casual pants |
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| CN202211300147.3A CN115919001B (en) | 2022-10-24 | 2022-10-24 | Process for improving waist fit degree of casual pants |
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| CN115919001B (en) | 2023-10-27 |
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