CN103445357A - Manufacturing process of business suit collar - Google Patents

Manufacturing process of business suit collar Download PDF

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Publication number
CN103445357A
CN103445357A CN2013104157820A CN201310415782A CN103445357A CN 103445357 A CN103445357 A CN 103445357A CN 2013104157820 A CN2013104157820 A CN 2013104157820A CN 201310415782 A CN201310415782 A CN 201310415782A CN 103445357 A CN103445357 A CN 103445357A
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China
Prior art keywords
collar
line
underlay
western
neck
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CN2013104157820A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN103445357B (en
Inventor
李春胜
孙蕾君
李娟�
王丽丽
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山东仙霞服装有限公司
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Priority to CN201310415782.0A priority Critical patent/CN103445357B/en
Publication of CN103445357A publication Critical patent/CN103445357A/en
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Abstract

The invention discloses a manufacturing process of a business suit collar. The manufacturing process comprises the following steps: folding and placing a collar underlay and a collar underlay woolen textile; fixing the collar underlay with the collar underlay woolen textile; pulling a collar base line on the collar underlay woolen textile; sewing a collar strip on the collar underlay woolen textile; sewing a collar surface; turning and folding a collar base along the collar base line; sewing a collar with a piece of body cloth, and completing the process of manufacturing the collar. By adopting the technical scheme, the collar underlay and the collar underlay woolen textile don't adopt a one-time high temperature underlay bounding process, but a process of sewing the collar surface and the underlay manually, as a result, the collar can be naturally turned over without high temperature ironing and pressing, the natural state of a texture can be kept, consumption of energy is reduced and production cost is lowered. The collar base line adopts shorn notches in two ends, the folding line of the collar underlay is exerted, and is controlled, stiff and smooth and natural lapel formation is ensured, besides, the lapel is matched with the neck of a human body, the tightness is right, and the shape is smooth.

Description

A kind of manufacture craft of Western-style clothes collar
Technical field
The present invention relates to the Western-style clothes manufacture field, relate to specifically a kind of Western-style clothes collar
Manufacture craft.
Background technology
A set of exquisite fit high-grade Western-style clothes of doing manual work has become the external embodiment of successful personage's taste and quality, and the collar technique of Men's Suits is directly determining the full along the subsides degree of Western-style clothes split head, collar in a whole set of Western-style clothes technique.In traditional handicraft in the past, the general employing carries out to collar the technique that adhesive lining handset bonding, that use is sewed up, this traditional handicraft in use, collar, split head need hot iron just can turn up, and destroy the texture of face liber tissue, easily occur that the neck angle warps, split head plays the problems such as empty.
Summary of the invention
The technical problem to be solved in the present invention is for the deficiencies in the prior art, and a kind of neck that makes is provided
Son is more along pasting, and radian is suitable, and third dimension is strong, guarantees to lead to refute to form well-pressed nature, and coincide with neck, the manufacture craft of the Western-style clothes collar of degree of tightness appropriateness fluent form.
For solving the problems of the technologies described above, the present invention by the following technical solutions: a kind of manufacture craft of Western-style clothes collar comprises the steps:
A, stack bottom collar lining and collar bottom wool fabric;
B, fixedly bottom collar lining and collar bottom wool fabric;
C, draw a neck seat line on collar bottom wool fabric;
D, neck bar are sewed up;
E, Peng stitches top collar;
F, along the collar site line, turn down out the neck seat;
G, collar and bodice are sewed up, and complete the making of collar.
Below further improvement of the present invention:
While stacking in step a, the bottom collar lining is than the reduced circumference 0.3cm of collar bottom wool fabric, and outer neckline needs the seam position that the wide 0.1cm of going out is top collar.
Further improve:
Seize open-wire line fixedly bottom collar lining and collar bottom wool fabric apart from the outer neckline 1.5cm place hook of collar bottom wool fabric in step b, open-wire line cements with flatiron with interior, and outer neckline is open and clear not bonding in order to the plug top collar.
Further improve:
After pulling neck seat line in step c, a seat line scissors eye is led on edge, along the position of a neck line, draws the cotton connection between the cutter eye, by cutter eye position, starts the even 0.4cm in shoulder seam place, at collar site line two ends, beats the 1cm clip.
Further improve:
Along neck seat line, the neck bar is set in steps d, eats into 0.3-0.4cm by cutter eye position high-ranking military officer's bar, on the neck bar, press open-wire line.
Further improve:
When in step e, Peng stitches, top collar is jumped the queue between collar bottom wool fabric and bottom collar lining, the pin location, stitch machine Peng seam with Peng by hand.
Further improve:
Form the bottom collar broken line in step f between neck seat and top collar.
Further improve:
The extended line of the split head broken line while sewing up in step g, the bottom collar broken line formed with bodice and the split head on it overlaps.
The present invention adopts technique scheme: the bottom collar lining does not adopt disposable high temperature adhesives lining technique with collar bottom wool fabric, but the manual suture technique of employing top collar and lining, make collar needn't adopt just upset naturally of hot iron, the nature that can keep fabric, save energy resource consumption to reduce production costs.The collar site line adopts two ends to beat clip, and the bottom collar broken line was both brought into play, again can be controlled, and guarantee to lead to refute to form well-pressed nature, and coincide with neck, degree of tightness appropriateness fluent form.
Below in conjunction with accompanying drawing, technical scheme of the present invention is described further.
The accompanying drawing explanation
the schematic diagram that accompanying drawing 1 coordinates with collar bottom wool fabric for the bottom collar lining;
The schematic diagram that accompanying drawing 2 is sewed up for bottom collar lining and collar bottom wool fabric;
Accompanying drawing 3 is the schematic diagram while leading seat line and cotton connection to arrange;
Schematic diagram when accompanying drawing 4 is made for the neck bar;
Schematic diagram when accompanying drawing 5 is made for top collar;
Accompanying drawing 6 is the schematic diagram while turning over collar;
Schematic diagram when accompanying drawing 7 is collar of the present invention and the stitching of clothing body.
In figure: the 1-collar bottom wool fabric; 2-bottom collar lining; The 3-open-wire line; 4-neck seat line; 5-cotton connection; The 6-clip; 7-cutter eye; 8-leads bar; The 9-top collar; The 10-split head; 11-split head broken line; 12-bottom collar broken line; 13-leads seat; The 14-bodice; The outer neckline of 15-.
The specific embodiment
Embodiment, as shown in Fig. 1-7, a kind of manufacture craft of Western-style clothes collar, comprise the steps:
A, stack bottom collar lining 2 and collar bottom wool fabric 1, while stacking, bottom collar lining 2 is than the reduced circumference 0.3cm of collar bottom wool fabric 1, and outer neckline needs the seam position that the wide 0.1cm of going out is top collar.
B, apart from the outer neckline 1.5cm place of collar bottom wool fabric 1, hook and seize open-wire line 3 fixedly end liner 2 and collar bottom wool fabric 1, open-wire line 3 cements with flatiron with interior, and outer neckline is open and clear not bonding in order to filling in top collar 9.
C, draw a neck seat line 4 on collar bottom wool fabric 1, along neck seat line 4 scissors eyes 7, along the position of neck seat line 4, draw cotton connection 5 between cutter eye 7, by cutter eye 7 positions, start the even 0.4cm in shoulder seam place, at collar site line two ends, beat 1cm clip 6.
D, neck bar are sewed up, and along neck seat line 4, neck bar 8 are set, and by cutter eye 7 position high-ranking military officer's bars 8, eat into 0.3 ~ 0.4cm, on neck bar 8, press open-wire line, without drawing, go back wrinkling.
E, Peng stitch top collar 9, and top collar 9 is jumped the queue between collar bottom wool fabric 1 and bottom collar lining 2, and the pin location, stitch machine Peng seam with Peng by hand.The front edge is uneven of top collar connects and contacts with top collar 9 and make the impression of top collar 9 without crack, and feel is level and smooth.Common Western-style clothes headman skill, after the collar bottom wool fabric adhesive lining, handset direct and that top collar is used is sewed up, and top collar has the impression of margin to seam.
F, turn over moulding, along collar site line 4, turn down out neck seat 13, formation bottom collar broken line 12 between neck seat 13 and top collar 9.
G, collar and bodice 14 are sewed up, the extended line of the split head broken line 11 during stitching, bottom collar broken line 12 formed with bodice 14 and the split head on it 10 overlaps, this structure produces split head broken line 11 and bottom collar broken line 12 to refute the power effect to guarantee collar, the well-pressed nature of split head 10, and coincide with neck, the degree of tightness appropriateness is suitable, fluent form.
Described bottom collar lining 2 adopts TC2133-26B neck core lining, this lining stock is polyester-cotton blend, yarn count 25.6 * 25.6, density 162 * 157, the TC2133-26B lining is different from general adhesive lining, characteristics are that this lining pressing temperature is 100-120 ℃ and does not need to press lining machine high temperature adhesives, and common collar technique, it is bonding that 140-145 ℃ of bottom collar lining pressing temperature will be carried out the high-temperature high-pressure lining, so TC2133-26B neck core lining can effectively reduce collar and press the lining operation, increase operating efficiency, save the energy.
The 1cm clip is beaten at collar site line 4 two ends, and while turning over moulding, bottom collar broken line 12 will produce to refute the power effect and collar is overturn naturally and coordinate mutually with split head broken line 11.

Claims (8)

1. the manufacture craft of a Western-style clothes collar, is characterized in that: comprise the steps:
A, stack bottom collar lining (2) and collar bottom wool fabric (1);
B, fixedly bottom collar lining (2) and collar bottom wool fabric (1);
C, draw a neck seat line (4) on collar bottom wool fabric (1);
D, neck bar (8) are sewed up;
E, Peng stitches top collar (9);
F, along collar site line (4), turn down out neck seat (13);
G, collar and bodice (14) are sewed up, and complete the making of collar.
2. the manufacture craft of a kind of Western-style clothes collar according to claim 1 is characterized in that: while stacking in step a, bottom collar lining (2) is than the reduced circumference 0.3cm of collar bottom wool fabric (1), and outer neckline needs the seam position that the wide 0.1cm of going out is top collar.
3. the manufacture craft of a kind of Western-style clothes collar according to claim 2, it is characterized in that: in step b, apart from the outer neckline 1.5cm place hook of collar bottom wool fabric (1), seize open-wire line (3) fixedly bottom collar lining (2) and collar bottom wool fabric (1), open-wire line (3) cements with flatiron with interior, and outer neckline is open and clear not bonding in order to plug top collar (9).
4. the manufacture craft of a kind of Western-style clothes collar according to claim 3, it is characterized in that: after pulling neck seat line (4) in step c, seat line (4) scissors eye (7) is led on edge, cotton connection (5) is drawn in position along neck seat line (4) between cutter eye (7), start the even 0.4cm in shoulder seam place by cutter eye (7) position, at collar site line two ends, beat 1cm clip (6).
5. the manufacture craft of a kind of Western-style clothes collar according to claim 4, is characterized in that: along neck seat line (4), neck bar (8) is set in steps d, eats into 0.3-0.4cm by cutter eye (7) position high-ranking military officer's bar (8), the upper open-wire line of pressing of neck bar (8).
6. the manufacture craft of a kind of Western-style clothes collar according to claim 5 is characterized in that: in step e, top collar (9) jumped the queue during the Peng seam between collar bottom wool fabric (1) and bottom collar lining (2), and pin location by hand, with Peng seam machine, Peng stitches.
7. the manufacture craft of a kind of Western-style clothes collar according to claim 6, is characterized in that: step f
In between neck seat (13) and top collar (9) formation bottom collar broken line (12).
8. the manufacture craft of a kind of Western-style clothes collar according to claim 7, is characterized in that: while sewing up in step g, bottom collar broken line (12) is overlapped with the extended line of the split head broken line (11) of bodice (14) and the split head on it (10) formation.
CN201310415782.0A 2013-09-13 2013-09-13 A kind of manufacture craft of Western-style clothes collar Active CN103445357B (en)

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Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103653448A (en) * 2013-12-24 2014-03-26 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 Method for making full linen lining collar of high-grade men's suit
CN106723438A (en) * 2017-02-17 2017-05-31 吴国英 Neckline closes the art shapes method of patch neck on customization western-style clothes
CN108244730A (en) * 2017-12-30 2018-07-06 北京亿都川服装集团有限公司 A kind of western-style clothes collar production method
CN108523288A (en) * 2018-02-06 2018-09-14 蓝豹股份有限公司 Bottom collar Nian Jing Cun manufacture crafts
CN108887777A (en) * 2018-08-22 2018-11-27 宁波培罗成股份有限公司 A kind of collar bottom wool fabric method of cutting out with adhesive lining
CN108991637A (en) * 2018-07-06 2018-12-14 烟台南山学院 A kind of zoarium two-piece type turndown collar structure drawing method
CN110115401A (en) * 2019-05-10 2019-08-13 温州庄吉服饰有限公司 A kind of processing method of integral type business suit collar
CN110604346A (en) * 2019-09-30 2019-12-24 西京学院 Method for cutting collar of men's shirt

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Cited By (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103653448A (en) * 2013-12-24 2014-03-26 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 Method for making full linen lining collar of high-grade men's suit
CN103653448B (en) * 2013-12-24 2015-09-09 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 The preparation method of the high-grade men suit collar of a kind of full hemp liner
CN106723438A (en) * 2017-02-17 2017-05-31 吴国英 Neckline closes the art shapes method of patch neck on customization western-style clothes
CN106723438B (en) * 2017-02-17 2018-09-21 吴国英 Customize the art shapes method that neckline on western-style clothes closes patch neck
CN108244730A (en) * 2017-12-30 2018-07-06 北京亿都川服装集团有限公司 A kind of western-style clothes collar production method
CN108523288A (en) * 2018-02-06 2018-09-14 蓝豹股份有限公司 Bottom collar Nian Jing Cun manufacture crafts
CN108991637A (en) * 2018-07-06 2018-12-14 烟台南山学院 A kind of zoarium two-piece type turndown collar structure drawing method
CN108887777A (en) * 2018-08-22 2018-11-27 宁波培罗成股份有限公司 A kind of collar bottom wool fabric method of cutting out with adhesive lining
CN110115401A (en) * 2019-05-10 2019-08-13 温州庄吉服饰有限公司 A kind of processing method of integral type business suit collar
CN110604346A (en) * 2019-09-30 2019-12-24 西京学院 Method for cutting collar of men's shirt
CN110604346B (en) * 2019-09-30 2021-04-09 西京学院 Method for cutting collar of men's shirt

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