CN108991637A - A kind of zoarium two-piece type turndown collar structure drawing method - Google Patents
A kind of zoarium two-piece type turndown collar structure drawing method Download PDFInfo
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- CN108991637A CN108991637A CN201810735439.7A CN201810735439A CN108991637A CN 108991637 A CN108991637 A CN 108991637A CN 201810735439 A CN201810735439 A CN 201810735439A CN 108991637 A CN108991637 A CN 108991637A
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- collar
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/01—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth using stencils
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- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
The present invention discloses a kind of fit two-piece type turndown collar structure drawing method, on the basis of single piece type turndown collar structure drawing, a parallel lines are drawn to the neck direction Xia Kou along turn-line, single piece type turndown collar is decomposed into two parts, two drawing boards of seat and top collar are respectively led, the bottom collar template and fit two-piece type turndown collar top collar template of fit two-piece type turndown collar are obtained after then being deformed two drawing boards of seat and top collar respectively.Compared with prior art, drafting method of the present invention is accurately reasonable, and mapping step is simple and convenient and easy to study, and drawing efficiency is high, and after making ready-made clothes, neck portion comfort and aesthetics increase, while enterprises production efficiency can be improved, and are conducive to the succession and popularization of plate-making technology.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to dress designing, specifically a kind of zoarium two-piece type turndown collar structure drawing method.
Background technique
In current majority universities and colleges and enterprise when carrying out fit two-piece type turndown collar structure drawing, turns over and refute frequently with single piece type
Collar structure drafting method after cutting neck piece, again returns row of ushering by ironing technology and pulls out processing, paste Western-style clothes as far as possible at collar portion
Neck is closed, with neck comfort after raising dress and at collar portion aesthetics.Although such drafting method mapping step is simple, cut out
Shearing process is simple, but the later period needs the further final finishing of ironing technology teacher, increases production process and station, operates time-consuming
Arduously；For the blocking process of neck, more demanding to the technical level of ironing personnel it is necessary to have the master workers of many years ironing experience
To complete；And return the amount of pulling out there is no fixed dimension parameter as standard, be unfavorable for the application of college teaching and enterprises technology with
It promotes；The fitness of turndown collar can just test after waiting ready-made clothes productions to go out, if blocking process misoperation, fitness
It is difficult to ensure.For the enterprise for pursuing productivity effect and efficiency, determine that a kind of accurately fit turndown collar drafting method is outstanding
It is important；For Clothing Specialty universities and colleges, a kind of fit turndown collar drawing side that is simple and convenient and easy to study, having parameter and standard is taught
Method is conducive to the application and popularization of plate-making technology.
Summary of the invention
Purpose of the present invention overcome the deficiencies in the prior art discloses a kind of fit two-piece type turndown collar structure drawing method,
A kind of zoarium two-piece type turndown collar structure drawing method, it is characterised in that: comprise the following steps:
1. the single piece type turndown collar template ABCDE to be completed using one is motherboard, wherein camber line XY is laple roll line, in AE line
M point is taken in section, N point is taken on BC line segment, so that MX=NY=0.7cm, draws camber line MN, makes MN ∥ XY, it, will be female using MN as shearing line
Plate is divided into two drawing boards, respectively bottom collar template ABNM and top collar template M ' N ' CDE, and wherein AB is neck lower collar thread, MN
To lead top curve, DE is to lead outer mouth line；
2. take the quartering point O, P, Q on neck lower collar thread AB, cross respectively 3 points of O, P, Q as straight line meet at neck MN suitable for reading in O ', P ',
Q ' point keeps OO ', PP ', three line segment of QQ ' vertical with tangent line of the camber line AB at 3 points of O, P or Q respectively；
3. left and right respectively takes 0.15cm on the basis of O ', P ', 3 points of Q ' respectively, 6 sheared edges are mutually got continuously with 3 points of O, P, Q respectively,
It is successively cut off along sheared edge, notices that guaranteeing 3 points of O, P, Q does not cut, and obtains 4 small-shapes, successively rotates small-shape after cutting off, it is right
Mouth AB and neck MN suitable for reading under smoother neck, obtains fit two-piece type turndown collar bottom collar template ABNM after neat sheared edge；
4. take the quartering point R, S, T on leading outer mouth line ED, cross respectively 3 points of R, S, T met at as straight line lead M ' N ' suitable for reading in R ',
S ', T ' point keep RR ', SS ', three line segment of TT ' vertical with tangent line of the curve ED at 3 points of R, S, T respectively；
5. left and right respectively takes 0.2cm on the basis of R ', S ', 3 points of T ' respectively, 6 sheared edges, edge are mutually got continuously with 3 points of R, S, T respectively
Sheared edge is successively cut off, and is noticed that guaranteeing 3 points of R, S, T does not cut, and obtains 4 small-shapes, successively rotates small-shape after cutting off, is aligned
Template M ' N ' CDE is obtained after sheared edge；
6. 3 points of R, S, T are cut off, guarantees that R ', S ', 3 positions T ' are constant, four small prints are rotated outward, make 3 points of RST
Each outside expansion 0.1cm, smoother neck collar extension camber line DE and neck M ' N ' suitable for reading, obtain fit two-piece type turndown collar top collar template M '
N’CDE。
Compared with prior art, single piece type turndown collar is resolved into two-piece type turndown collar by the present invention, before guaranteeing fitness
Put reduce it is subsequent process is pulled out to returning for neck, improve neck portion comfort and aesthetics.Mapping step is simple and convenient and easy to study, parameter designing
Accurate rationally drawing efficiency is high, saves human and material resources, and enterprises production efficiency and benefit can be improved, increase Technique Popularizing and application
Dynamics.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is the structural schematic diagram of a single piece type turndown collar template to complete.
Fig. 2 is the structural schematic diagram of bottom collar template of the present invention.
Fig. 3 is the structural schematic diagram of fit two-piece type turndown collar bottom collar template of the invention.
Fig. 4 is the structural schematic diagram of top collar template of the present invention.
Fig. 5 is the structural schematic diagram of top collar template intermediate state of the present invention.
Fig. 6 is the structural schematic diagram of fit two-piece type turndown collar top collar template of the invention.
Specific embodiment
Drawing scale uses 1:1, brown paper plate-making, unit cm.
Specific mapping step is as follows:
ABCDE is single piece type turndown collar template in Fig. 1, and camber line XY is laple roll line, MX=NY=0.7cm is taken, camber line MN is drawn,
Make MN ∥ XY, using MN as shearing line, a piece of neck is divided into two drawing boards, respectively bottom collar template ABNM and top collar template
M ' N ' CDE, wherein AB is neck lower collar thread, and MN is neck top curve, and DE is to lead outer mouth line.
As shown in Fig. 2, taking the quartering point O, P, Q on neck lower collar thread AB, crosses 3 points of O, P, Q respectively and met on neck as straight line
Mouth MN keeps OO ', PP ', three line segment of QQ ' vertical with tangent line of the camber line AB at 3 points of O, P or Q respectively in O ', P ', Q ' point.
Left and right respectively takes 0.15cm on the basis of O ', P ', 3 points of Q ' respectively, mutually gets 6 shearings continuously with 3 points of O, P, Q respectively
Side is successively cut off along sheared edge, notices that guaranteeing 3 points of O, P, Q does not cut, and obtains 4 small-shapes, successively rotates small-shape after cutting off,
Mouth AB and neck MN suitable for reading under smoother neck, obtains fit two-piece type turndown collar bottom collar template ABNM, such as Fig. 3 institute after alignment sheared edge
Show.
As shown in figure 4, taking the quartering point R, S, T on leading outer mouth line ED, crosses 3 points of R, S, T respectively and met on neck as straight line
Mouth M ' N ' keeps RR ', SS ', three line segment of TT ' vertical with tangent line of the curve ED at 3 points of R, S, T respectively in R ', S ', T ' point.
Left and right respectively takes 0.2cm on the basis of R ', S ', 3 points of T ' respectively, mutually gets 6 sheared edges continuously with 3 points of R, S, T respectively,
It is successively cut off along sheared edge, notices that guaranteeing 3 points of R, S, T does not cut, and obtains 4 small-shapes, successively rotates small-shape after cutting off, it is right
Template M ' N ' CDE is obtained after neat sheared edge, as shown in Figure 5.
3 points of R, S, T are cut off, guarantees that R ', S ', 3 positions T ' are constant, four small prints is rotated outward, RST tri- is made
Point each outside expansion 0.1cm, smoother neck collar extension camber line DE and neck M ' N ' suitable for reading, obtain fit two-piece type turndown collar top collar template
M ' N ' CDE, as shown in Figure 6.
It is examined by up to 300 clothing plate makings, the western clothes prepared by the method for the invention, neck portion comfort and aesthetics
It increases, version type is well received by consumers.
Claims (1)
1. a kind of zoarium two-piece type turndown collar structure drawing method, it is characterised in that: comprise the following steps:
1. the single piece type turndown collar template ABCDE to be completed using one is motherboard, wherein camber line XY is laple roll line, in AE line
M point is taken in section, N point is taken on BC line segment, so that MX=NY=0.7cm, draws camber line MN, makes MN ∥ XY, it, will be female using MN as shearing line
Plate is divided into two drawing boards, respectively bottom collar template ABNM and top collar template M ' N ' CDE, and wherein AB is neck lower collar thread, MN
To lead top curve, DE is to lead outer mouth line；
2. take the quartering point O, P, Q on neck lower collar thread AB, cross respectively 3 points of O, P, Q as straight line meet at neck MN suitable for reading in O ', P ',
Q ' point keeps OO ', PP ', three line segment of QQ ' vertical with tangent line of the camber line AB at 3 points of O, P or Q respectively；
3. left and right respectively takes 0.15cm on the basis of O ', P ', 3 points of Q ' respectively, 6 sheared edges are mutually got continuously with 3 points of O, P, Q respectively,
It is successively cut off along sheared edge, notices that guaranteeing 3 points of O, P, Q does not cut, and obtains 4 small-shapes, successively rotates small-shape after cutting off, it is right
Mouth AB and neck MN suitable for reading under smoother neck, obtains fit two-piece type turndown collar bottom collar template ABNM after neat sheared edge；
4. take the quartering point R, S, T on leading outer mouth line ED, cross respectively 3 points of R, S, T met at as straight line lead M ' N ' suitable for reading in R ',
S ', T ' point keep RR ', SS ', three line segment of TT ' vertical with tangent line of the curve ED at 3 points of R, S, T respectively；
5. left and right respectively takes 0.2cm on the basis of R ', S ', 3 points of T ' respectively, 6 sheared edges, edge are mutually got continuously with 3 points of R, S, T respectively
Sheared edge is successively cut off, and is noticed that guaranteeing 3 points of R, S, T does not cut, and obtains 4 small-shapes, successively rotates small-shape after cutting off, is aligned
Template M ' N ' CDE is obtained after sheared edge；
6. 3 points of R, S, T are cut off, guarantees that R ', S ', 3 positions T ' are constant, four small prints are rotated outward, make 3 points of RST
Each outside expansion 0.1cm, smoother neck collar extension camber line DE and neck M ' N ' suitable for reading, obtain fit two-piece type turndown collar top collar template M '
N’CDE。
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201810735439.7A CN108991637A (en) | 2018-07-06 | 2018-07-06 | A kind of zoarium two-piece type turndown collar structure drawing method |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201810735439.7A CN108991637A (en) | 2018-07-06 | 2018-07-06 | A kind of zoarium two-piece type turndown collar structure drawing method |
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| CN201810735439.7A Pending CN108991637A (en) | 2018-07-06 | 2018-07-06 | A kind of zoarium two-piece type turndown collar structure drawing method |
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Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN110179193A (en) * | 2019-05-31 | 2019-08-30 | 杭州全尚科技股份有限公司 | The method for platemaking of single piece type turndown collar |
| CN112137212A (en) * | 2020-08-25 | 2020-12-29 | 山东科技职业学院 | Collar separating method for two-piece lapel |
Citations (6)
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| GB191027408A (en) * | 1910-11-24 | 1911-04-27 | Nathan Harris | Improvements relating to Garments such as Coats, Overcoats and similar Articles. |
| DE2405945A1 (en) * | 1974-02-08 | 1975-08-21 | Joachim Koglin | Blouse collar with lapels, facing and interfacing - with no hand-stitching and no tendency to ruck |
| CN1435138A (en) * | 2002-10-16 | 2003-08-13 | 上海杨海服装研究所 | Method for matching collar without press-in and unfolding of pattern sheet |
| CN103445357A (en) * | 2013-09-13 | 2013-12-18 | 山东仙霞服装有限公司 | Manufacturing process of business suit collar |
| CN104997218A (en) * | 2015-06-11 | 2015-10-28 | 闽江学院 | Simple shirt collar sewing method easy to operate |
| CN105996265A (en) * | 2016-06-07 | 2016-10-12 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Method for making template for turning down garment collars |
-
2018
- 2018-07-06 CN CN201810735439.7A patent/CN108991637A/en active Pending
Patent Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GB191027408A (en) * | 1910-11-24 | 1911-04-27 | Nathan Harris | Improvements relating to Garments such as Coats, Overcoats and similar Articles. |
| DE2405945A1 (en) * | 1974-02-08 | 1975-08-21 | Joachim Koglin | Blouse collar with lapels, facing and interfacing - with no hand-stitching and no tendency to ruck |
| CN1435138A (en) * | 2002-10-16 | 2003-08-13 | 上海杨海服装研究所 | Method for matching collar without press-in and unfolding of pattern sheet |
| CN103445357A (en) * | 2013-09-13 | 2013-12-18 | 山东仙霞服装有限公司 | Manufacturing process of business suit collar |
| CN104997218A (en) * | 2015-06-11 | 2015-10-28 | 闽江学院 | Simple shirt collar sewing method easy to operate |
| CN105996265A (en) * | 2016-06-07 | 2016-10-12 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Method for making template for turning down garment collars |
Non-Patent Citations (2)
| Title |
|---|
| 吴经熊等: "《最新时装配领技术》", 31 January 2012, 上海：上海科学技术出版社 * |
| 吴经熊等: "《最新服装装配领技术 第2版》", 28 February 2014, 合肥：安徽科学技术出版社 * |
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN110179193A (en) * | 2019-05-31 | 2019-08-30 | 杭州全尚科技股份有限公司 | The method for platemaking of single piece type turndown collar |
| CN112137212A (en) * | 2020-08-25 | 2020-12-29 | 山东科技职业学院 | Collar separating method for two-piece lapel |
| CN112137212B (en) * | 2020-08-25 | 2022-09-23 | 山东科技职业学院 | Collar separating method for two-piece lapel |
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Application publication date: 20181214 |