CN108813775B

CN108813775B - Drawing method for lapel structure of suit

Info

Publication number: CN108813775B
Application number: CN201810679012.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 左洪芬; 宋向前; 隋玉波
Original assignee: Hon Hai Precision Industry Co Ltd
Current assignee: Hon Hai Precision Industry Co Ltd
Priority date: 2018-06-27
Filing date: 2018-06-27
Publication date: 2020-04-28
Anticipated expiration: 2038-06-27
Also published as: CN108813775A

Abstract

The invention discloses a drawing method of lapel structure of suit, after determining a lapel line, drawing a parallel line 1cm away from the lapel line in the direction away from the suit body, using a right-angled triangle drawing template with a lapel arc length as one right-angled side of the right-angled triangle and a collar base height plus a lapel height as the other right-angled side of the right-angled triangle, making the intersection point of the back lapel arc length and the hypotenuse coincide with a front lapel width point, and making the other point of the hypotenuse fall on the straight line with the lapel line parallel distance of 1cm, thus determining the size of lapel lodging quantity and further determining the position of the back lapel structure line. Compared with the prior art, the drawing method is accurate and reasonable, the drawing steps are simple, convenient and easy to learn, the drawing efficiency is high, the comfort and the attractiveness of the collar are improved after the garment is made, the production efficiency of an enterprise can be improved, and the inheritance and the popularization of a plate making technology are facilitated.

Description

Drawing method for lapel structure of suit

Technical Field

The invention relates to clothing design, in particular to a method for drawing a lapel structure of a suit.

Background

In the drawing process of the lapel structure of the suit, the fitting degree of the collar and the neck of the suit and the fitting degree of the outer collar opening and the back coat body are determined by the lapel lodging amount, namely the wearing comfort of the neck and the attractiveness of the collar of the suit are influenced.

At present, when the lapel structure drawing is carried out in most institutes and enterprises, the lodging amount is usually a fixed value, the range is 2-3.5cm, and the specific fixed value is adjusted according to factors such as the height of a lapel position, the height of a back lapel and a collar base, the width of a front lapel of western style clothes, the fabric property and the like. After the template is finished, a sample garment is required to be made to check whether the lapel drawing size is reasonable in design, if the lapel drawing is not suitable, a re-structure drawing is carried out, the sample garment is made again to check, the lapel drawing is qualified until the suit collar has wearing comfort and attractiveness, and the lapel drawing structure is time-consuming and labor-consuming in the process, so that the production efficiency of an enterprise is influenced; in addition, the traditional lapel drawing steps are complex and difficult to remember, can be completed by technicians with many years of plate making experience, and are difficult for beginners to master the drawing steps and rules, so that the application and popularization of knowledge are not facilitated. For enterprises pursuing production benefits and efficiency, it is particularly important to determine an accurate lapel mapping method; for the professional colleges and universities of clothing, a simple and easy-to-learn lapel drawing method is taught, and the application and popularization of the plate making technology are facilitated.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art and discloses a method for drawing a lapel structure of a suit, which comprises the following steps of firstly defining a collar base height as a, a lapel height as b and a back collar arc length as k:

① drawing a right triangle with lengths a + B and k as two right-angle sides, marking the acute vertex with the number B and the length k as the number S and the acute vertex with the length a + B as the number A, and cutting the triangle as a triangle template for standby;

② extending 0.7a to N point from the front neck width point S along the front shoulder line in the structure diagram of the coat body, connecting N with the barge point M to determine a barge line, and drawing a parallel line M 'N' with the distance of 1cm from MN;

③, coinciding the S vertex of the triangular template in the step ① with the S point in the coat structure diagram in the step ②, keeping the B point at the left side of the S point, and rotating the triangular template until the A point on the triangular template falls on the M 'N' line, so that the positions of the two points A, B are determined, namely the position of the middle line of the back collar is determined;

④ according to the style requirements and a and b, reasonably designing the angle and size of the serial line, the width of the lapel, the position D of a collar stitching stop, the size DE of the upper collar mouth and the intersection point C of the serial line and the lower collar mouth;

⑤ connecting collar outer opening AE and collar lower opening BC in a straight line, and connecting AB, DE and CD to obtain the structure chart of the lapel collar surface of the suit.

⑥ A, B, the points are translated inwards to form points A 'and B', so that the distance between the line segment AB/line segment A 'B', the line segment AB ⊥ line segment AA ', the line segment AB ⊥ line segment BB', and the line segment AB and the line segment A 'B' is 0.6cm, the line segment is connected with the collar outer opening A 'E and the collar lower opening B' C in a circle sequence, and the line segment is connected with the line segment A 'B', DE and CD, and the structure diagram of the lapel collar bottom of the suit is obtained.

Compared with the prior art, the drawing method is accurate and reasonable, the drawing steps are simple, convenient and easy to learn, the drawing efficiency is high, the comfort and the attractiveness of the collar are improved after the garment is made, the production efficiency of an enterprise can be improved, and the inheritance and the popularization of a plate making technology are facilitated.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the triangular template of the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a schematic view of the structure of the lapel collar of the suit of the invention.

Fig. 3 is a schematic view of the structure of the lapel collar of the suit.

Detailed Description

Referring to FIGS. 1-3, the drawing scale is 1:1, kraft paper for plate making in cm. Defining the base height of a, the lapel height of b and the arc length of the back collar of k, comprising the following steps:

After up to 100 cases of clothing plate making tests, the type of the suit prepared by the method is deeply loved by consumers.

Claims

1. A method for drawing a lapel structure of a suit, which defines a collar base height as a, a lapel height as b and a back collar arc length as k, is characterized in that: comprises the following steps:

⑤ connecting collar outer opening AE and collar lower opening BC in a straight line, and connecting AB, DE and CD to obtain the structure chart of the lapel collar surface of the suit;