CN104585942B - The variable that clothing shoulder chest is economized is than former figure tailoring method - Google Patents
The variable that clothing shoulder chest is economized is than former figure tailoring method Download PDFInfo
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- CN104585942B CN104585942B CN201410729721.6A CN201410729721A CN104585942B CN 104585942 B CN104585942 B CN 104585942B CN 201410729721 A CN201410729721 A CN 201410729721A CN 104585942 B CN104585942 B CN 104585942B
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- line
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/08—Patterns on the cloth, e.g. printed
Abstract
The invention discloses the variable of a kind of clothing shoulder chest province than former figure tailoring method, the clothing specification with anthropometric data determination shoulder breadth, chest measurement, waistline, chest breadth and armhole girth is needed according to clothes fashion, determine that chest waist difference is BW, shoulder chest province variable is 10:1 than coefficient, economize point by shoulder chest, open and economize point, shoulder chest province variable than coefficient line BW ', governor's line A, open province line C, obtain the shoulder chest dart become according to the change of clothes fashion type.Efficiently solve prior art to the problems existing for the method for cutting out of the same shoulder chest dart of the clothes of multiple type, there is very high practical value.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the manufacture method of clothes style of bust, especially relate to the variable of a kind of clothing shoulder chest province than former figure tailoring method.
Background technology
Clothes chest is economized for clothes style of bust, very important for human comfort, and prior art adopts a kind of quantitatively than, i.e. a kind of style of bust for different garment type.Most is representational is Japanese New Culture prototype, first draws the prototype cardboard cut out without style name and contrasts, then fixes dart design chest province by rule of thumb, draws the garment piece cut out and have style name.These technology make different garment style type form same style of bust, cause that comfort level is poor, the trial-manufacturing process of clothes is long, cost manpower and materials are larger, be not suitable with the style change demand of market-oriented clothes, greatly limit the development of clothing industry.
Publication date is on March 12nd, 2014, publication number is that the Chinese patent document of CN103622194A discloses and a kind ofly automatically determines the former figure tailoring method of the YVW of clothes armhole depth, the former number of clothes at high position is saved according to anthropometric data and predetermined clothes fashion determination armhole girth, shoulder breadth, chest measurement, clothing length, collar, waist, the upper and lower segmentation datum line length of garment piece armhole is determined according to the former number of armhole girth, by the metamorphosis of the upper and lower part perimeter line that the basic directrix of segmentation determines armhole points outside height automatically, the armhole degree of depth instructs front and back armhole by armhole girth rate.The relative points of this technology does not describe style of bust closely-related with armhole periphery, and it economizes the blank of technology to chest as seen, and the design of dress style of bust is subject to many limitations.
The chest that the armhole method of cutting out of above-mentioned technology deposits armhole and style of bust economizes the indefinite problem of relation, the style of bust of Ms. Wear is changed be subject to many limitations, there is larger uncertainty in the clothes of its cutting, the chest that cannot meet garment piece chest economizes the cutting requirement of change in the comfort level of human body.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is: solve prior art to time-consuming longer, the problem that cannot meet precision rate request that garment market convert dress ornament and comfortable features of clothing difference existing for the method for cutting out of the same chest dart of the clothes of multiple type, provide a kind of cutting quick, precision rate request that garment market converts dress ornament can be met and the variable of the good clothing shoulder chest province of comfortableness than former figure tailoring method.
Above-mentioned technical problem of the present invention is mainly solved by following technical proposals: the variable that a kind of clothing shoulder chest is economized, than former figure tailoring method, comprises the following steps:
A. according to the former number of clothes of anthropometric data determination chest measurement, waistline, shoulder breadth, chest breadth and armhole girth, if chest measurement length is B, waistline length is W, chest waist difference is BW, it is BW ' than coefficient that shoulder chest economizes variable, it is 10:1 that setting chest waist difference and shoulder chest economize variable than the ratio between coefficient, i.e. BW '=BW/10, wherein BW=B-W.Here it is 10:1 that chest waist difference and shoulder chest economize variable than the ratio between coefficient, and referring to economize point is starting point, and be governor's line place of 10 in length, province's Opening length vertical with governor's line is BW ', and that namely takes on chest province V-arrangement opening angle is just cut to BW '/10.Prior art is economized for the chest of not jack per line type and is used a chest dart, a kind of style of bust by rule of thumb, its clothes chest comfort level is had a greatly reduced quality, for this reason, the present invention sets chest waist difference as shoulder chest dart radix, making it take on chest dart to change according to the change of the former number of clothes, is no longer a kind of quantitative ratio, but a kind of quantity relative ratio relationship that can change, chest measurement is greater than to the clothes of waistline, the cut-out method of the present invention's rule is all applicable.
B. after finishing garment piece outline line by clothing specification, determine that the mid point of BL BUST LINE chest breadth section is the BP point that chest protrudes, to take on line near neckline side 1/3 place for shoulder chest is economized a little, shoulder chest is economized and a little takeed on line segment to 2/3 of armhole upper extreme point is outer shoulder line, economized a little to point with the finger or gesticulate to BP by shoulder chest and take on chest province baseline, calculate with baseline/5 and determine to take on the distance that chest economizes point and BP point, determining that shoulder chest economizes point to takeing on the chest baseboard economized a little is governor's line, and the angle of outer shoulder line formation crossing with governor's line is α.First confirm the angle of this angle, be beneficial to and guarantee that shoulder line moves correctly.
C. variable ratio is economized according to shoulder chest, distance shoulder chest is economized sharp 10 centimeters, is equaled the shoulder chest of BW ' province variable perpendicular to governor's line drawing length than coefficient line, by shoulder chest economize point cross shoulder chest economize variable than coefficient line left end draw with governor's line isometric open province's line, determine out that the upper end of province's line is economized a little for opening, open economize a little and take on chest economize a little between distance be and take on chest dart.Economize variable ratio according to shoulder chest, when the former number of different garment, automatically can obtain different shoulder chest darts, naturally form the style of bust that the former number of clothing specification needs, can provide and protrude the corresponding clothes comfort level of degree to female chest.
D. Yi Kai economizes line is benchmark, drawing with outer shoulder line equal length, with the angle opening province's line is that the mobile of α takes on line, determine that the prolongation amount of mobile shoulder line equals to take on 1/2 of chest dart, the right-hand member of mobile shoulder line is extended by prolongation amount, and the right-hand member of mobile shoulder line is economized with shoulder chest a little be connected, complete thus and take on line and be shifted.This step, is equivalent to outer shoulder line and governor's line to economize point for initial point rotate an angle to take on chest, draws and mobilely takes on line, can guarantee the accurate of stitching back porch line position with outer shoulder line equal length, equal angles.
E. from moving and takeing on line left end, with reference to outside the armhole line drawing of anter top, armhole line is moved, the amount of moving down of bottom armhole line is determined by 1/2 of the armhole line length shortage amount caused thus, according to the anter bottom armhole line below the upper and lower armhole cut-point of the downward translation of the amount of moving down, simultaneously according to the amount of moving down downward translation rear panel bottom armhole line, do process in smoothing junction between the upper and lower armhole line of front and rear panel after movement, before and after keeping, the chest breadth of garment piece is constant.
F. according to mobile shoulder line, up and down the armhole line after repainting and original garment piece outline line that all the other do not process, the garment piece of the clothes fashion that seam cutting economizes with shoulder chest is put.For the clothes setting up shoulder chest province, can according to the garment piece outline line of the shoulder line after movement, armhole line and other movements, put the garment piece of the clothes fashion that seam cutting economizes with shoulder chest, the garment piece reduced like this can guarantee that style of bust and human chest are protruded degree and coincide.Garment piece outline line described here is clean stitched seam line, therefore needs to put seam cutting, if do not put seam cutting, the clothing product made will be less than normal.
Open province's line overlap after governor's sewer, mobile or after repainting garment piece outline line all overlaps with former outline line.Can guarantee that front cut pieces and rear garment piece are accurately sewed up like this, and corresponding shoulder chest dart, corresponding style of bust can be provided for BP protrusion person in various degree, provide corresponding clothes comfort level.
Shoulder chest dart of the present invention is relevant to the former number of clothes, for the clothes that chest waist difference is large, corresponding shoulder chest dart is larger, for the clothes that chest waist difference is little, corresponding shoulder chest dart is less, from prior art adopt one fixing quantitative than different, the quantity relative ratio relationship of a change that what the present invention adopted is, can automatically determine suitable shoulder chest dart according to the former number of different garment, make clothing product fit comfortable.
The present invention only relates to the method for cutting out that clothing shoulder chest is economized, the tailoring technology at other position or carries out another item application for a patent for invention, the present invention does not relate to, do not describe the core content of another item invention, and the content that the present invention does not elaborate in addition is prior art.Relevant code name in the present invention just shows a kind of symbol with the difference of other method of cutting out.Cardboard can be drawn and be cut into clothes profiled sheeting by technology of the present invention, model is used for the clothing cutting plate that batch production cut out by picture, also directly can be drawn by cloth and be cut into single-piece tailored costume garment piece.So the present invention does not draw paper cutting board in addition to compared estimate, does not additionally produce waste paper garbage, just can realize picture according to the former number design of clothes and cut out fit garment piece object, be a kind of simple and practical garment cutting method.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows: the invention solves prior art to existing for the method for cutting out of the same shoulder chest dart of the clothes of multiple type, time-consuming longer, the problem that cannot meet precision rate request that garment market converts dress ornament and comfortable features of clothing difference, achieve a kind of cutting quick, precision rate request that garment market convert dress ornament can be met and the variable of the good clothing shoulder chest province of comfortableness than former figure tailoring method.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is a kind of front cut pieces schematic diagram that the present invention takes on that chest economizes cutting-out method;
Fig. 2 is a kind of rear garment piece schematic diagram that the present invention takes on that chest economizes cutting-out method.
In Fig. 1: 1. BL BUST LINE chest breadth section, 2. take on chest and economize a little, 3. take on chest and economize point, 4. take on line outside, 5. anter top armhole line, 6. anter bottom armhole line, 7. rear panel bottom armhole line, 2 '. open and economize a little, 4 '. mobile shoulder line, 5 '. move armhole line outward, BP. chest protruding point, A. governor's line, C. opens province's line, BW '. shoulder chest economizes variable than coefficient line, the upper and lower armhole cut-point of D..
Detailed description of the invention
Below by embodiment, and by reference to the accompanying drawings, technical scheme of the present invention is described in further detail.
Embodiment 1
In embodiment 1 as shown in Figure 1, the variable that a kind of clothing shoulder chest is economized, than former figure tailoring method, comprises the following steps:
A. according to the former number of clothes of anthropometric data determination chest measurement, waistline, shoulder breadth, chest breadth and armhole girth, if chest measurement length is B, waistline length is W, chest waist difference is BW, it is BW ' than coefficient that shoulder chest economizes variable, it is 10:1 that setting chest waist difference and shoulder chest economize variable than the ratio between coefficient, i.e. BW '=BW/10, wherein BW=B-W.
B. after finishing garment piece outline line by clothing specification, determine that the mid point of BL BUST LINE chest breadth section 1 is the BP point that chest protrudes, to take on line near neckline side 1/3 place for shoulder chest economizes a little 2, shoulder chest is economized and a little takeed on line segment to 2/3 of armhole upper extreme point is outer shoulder line 4, economized a little to point with the finger or gesticulate to BP by shoulder chest and take on chest province baseline, calculate with baseline/5 and determine to take on the distance that chest economizes point 3 and BP point, determining that shoulder chest economizes point to takeing on the chest baseboard economized a little is governor's line A, and the angle of outer shoulder line formation crossing with governor's line is α.
C. variable ratio is economized according to shoulder chest, distance shoulder chest is economized sharp 10 centimeters, is equaled the shoulder chest of BW ' province variable perpendicular to governor's line drawing length than coefficient line BW ', by shoulder chest economize point cross shoulder chest economize variable than coefficient line left end draw with governor's line isometric open province line C, determine out that the upper end of province's line economizes a little 2 ' for opening, open economize a little and take on chest economize a little between distance be and take on chest dart.
D. Yi Kai economizes line is benchmark, drawing with outer shoulder line equal length, with the angle opening province's line is that the mobile of α takes on line 4 ', (being equivalent to outer shoulder line and governor's line to economize point for initial point rotate an angle to take on chest), determine that the prolongation amount of mobile shoulder line equals to take on 1/2 of chest dart, the right-hand member of mobile shoulder line is extended by prolongation amount, and the right-hand member of mobile shoulder line is economized with shoulder chest a little be connected, complete thus and take on line and be shifted.
E. from mobile shoulder line left end, to draw with reference to anter top armhole line 5 and move armhole line 5 ' outward, the amount of moving down of bottom armhole line is determined by 1/2 of the armhole line length shortage amount caused thus, according to D point in anter bottom armhole line 6(and Fig. 1 below the downward translation of the amount of moving down upper and lower armhole cut-point D with lower part armhole line), see Fig. 2 according to the amount of moving down downward translation rear panel bottom armhole line 7() simultaneously, do process in smoothing junction between the upper and lower armhole line of front and rear panel after movement, before and after keeping, the chest breadth of garment piece is constant.
F. do not process original garment piece outline line according to mobile shoulder line, up and down the armhole line after repainting and all the other, put the garment piece of the clothes fashion that seam cutting economizes with shoulder chest.
Province's line overlap of opening of the present invention is after governor's sewer, and mobile or after repainting garment piece outline line all overlaps with former outline line.Jiang Kai economizes line overlap after governor's sewer, the line moved or again drew all will set back, guarantee accurately to sew up with rear garment piece, and corresponding dart, corresponding style of bust can be provided for BP protrusion person in various degree, provide corresponding clothes comfort level.
In accompanying drawing of the present invention, the fine line of garment piece figure neighboring is garment piece initial profile line, interior detail solid line is BL BUST LINE chest breadth section, inner dotted line is that garment piece is drawn and cut out boost line, and heavy line is province's line of redefining of design idea according to the present invention or outline line (comprising shoulder line, armhole line and side seam line).
Chest measurement is greater than to the clothes of waistline, the cut-out method of the present invention's rule is all applicable, and not another paper cutting board, to compared estimate, does not additionally produce waste paper garbage, have easy to operate, shoulder chest economize automatically change according to the former number of clothes, the easy feature such as accurately of the determination of style of bust.Solve prior art to existing for the method for cutting out of the same dart of the clothes of multiple type, time-consuming longer, the problem that cannot meet precision rate request that garment market converts dress ornament and comfortable features of clothing difference.Achieve a kind of cutting quick, precision rate request that garment market convert dress ornament can be met and the variable of the good clothing shoulder chest province of comfortableness than former figure tailoring method.
In addition to the implementation; in the scope disclosed in claims of the present invention and description; technical characteristic of the present invention or technical data can carry out reselecting and combining; thus form new embodiment; the embodiment that these the present invention do not describe in detail is that those skilled in the art just can realize easily without the need to creative work, and therefore these embodiments do not described in detail also should be considered as specific embodiments of the invention and within protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (2)
1. the variable of clothing shoulder chest province is than a former figure tailoring method, it is characterized in that comprising the following steps:
A. according to the former number of clothes of anthropometric data determination chest measurement, waistline, shoulder breadth, chest breadth and armhole girth, if chest measurement length is B, waistline length is W, chest waist difference is BW, it is BW ' than coefficient that shoulder chest economizes variable, it is 10:1 that setting chest waist difference and shoulder chest economize variable than the ratio between coefficient, i.e. BW '=BW/10, wherein BW=B-W;
B. after finishing garment piece outline line by clothing specification, determine that the mid point of BL BUST LINE chest breadth section (1) is the BP point that chest protrudes, to take on line near neckline side 1/3 place for shoulder chest economizes point (2), shoulder chest is economized and a little takeed on line segment to 2/3 of armhole upper extreme point is outer shoulder line (4), economized a little to point with the finger or gesticulate to BP by shoulder chest and take on chest province baseline, calculate with baseline/5 and determine to take on the distance that chest economizes point (3) and BP point, determining that shoulder chest economizes point to the shoulder chest baseboard economized a little is governor's line (A), and the angle of outer shoulder line formation crossing with governor's line is α;
C. variable ratio is economized according to shoulder chest, distance shoulder chest economizes sharp 10 centimeters, equal the shoulder chest of BW ' perpendicular to governor's line drawing length economizes variable than coefficient line (BW '), by shoulder chest economize point cross shoulder chest economize variable than coefficient line left end draw with governor's line isometric open province's line (C), determine out that point (2 ') is economized for opening in the upper end of province's line, open economize a little and take on chest economize a little between distance be and take on chest dart;
D. Yi Kai economizes line is benchmark, drawing with outer shoulder line equal length, with the angle opening province's line is that the mobile of α takes on line (4 '), determine that the prolongation amount of mobile shoulder line equals to take on 1/2 of chest dart, the right-hand member of mobile shoulder line is extended by prolongation amount, and the right-hand member of mobile shoulder line is economized with shoulder chest a little be connected, complete thus and take on line and be shifted;
E. from moving shoulder line left end, with reference to anter top armhole line (5) picture is outer, armhole line (5 ') is moved, the amount of moving down of bottom armhole line is determined by 1/2 of the armhole line length shortage amount caused thus, according to anter bottom armhole line (6) of upper and lower armhole cut-point (D) below of the downward translation of the amount of moving down, simultaneously according to the amount of moving down downward translation rear panel bottom armhole line (7), do process in smoothing junction between the upper and lower armhole line of front and rear panel after movement, before and after keeping, the chest breadth of garment piece is constant;
F. according to mobile shoulder line, up and down the armhole line after repainting and original garment piece outline line that all the other do not process, the garment piece of the clothes fashion that seam cutting economizes with shoulder chest is put.
2. the variable of a kind of clothing shoulder chest province according to claim 1 is than former figure tailoring method, it is characterized in that, opens province's line overlap after governor's sewer, and mobile or after repainting garment piece outline line all overlaps with former outline line.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201410729721.6A CN104585942B (en) | 2014-12-04 | 2014-12-04 | The variable that clothing shoulder chest is economized is than former figure tailoring method |
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| CN201410729721.6A CN104585942B (en) | 2014-12-04 | 2014-12-04 | The variable that clothing shoulder chest is economized is than former figure tailoring method |
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| CN104585942A CN104585942A (en) | 2015-05-06 |
| CN104585942B true CN104585942B (en) | 2016-02-10 |
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Families Citing this family (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN107373841B (en) * | 2017-07-11 | 2019-06-21 | 胡亨有 | Garment collar chest saves BNV original number and designs cutting-out method |
| CN108308776B (en) * | 2018-04-11 | 2019-06-18 | 潮汕职业技术学院 | A method of solving clothes oxter motion function |
| CN114568780B (en) * | 2022-03-04 | 2023-09-22 | 江西服装学院 | Sleeve matching method and cutting template for V-shaped armholes of clothing |
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| JP2008144338A (en) * | 2006-11-14 | 2008-06-26 | Hirosuke Nakagawa | Ladies' outerwear with bust cups |
| CN102613761A (en) * | 2012-04-12 | 2012-08-01 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Pattern making method of suit sleeve |
| CN102940333A (en) * | 2012-09-14 | 2013-02-27 | 胡亨有 | Original number tailoring method for clothing armhole |
| CN103284373A (en) * | 2013-05-09 | 2013-09-11 | 宁波大学 | Novel red group axis sleeve matching method |
| CN103622194A (en) * | 2013-05-23 | 2014-03-12 | 胡亨有 | YVW original data cutting method for automatically determining clothes armhole depth |
| JP5569996B1 (en) * | 2013-08-27 | 2014-08-13 | 株式会社 ｉ ｐｌｕｓ | clothing |
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2014
- 2014-12-04 CN CN201410729721.6A patent/CN104585942B/en active Active
Patent Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2008144338A (en) * | 2006-11-14 | 2008-06-26 | Hirosuke Nakagawa | Ladies' outerwear with bust cups |
| CN102613761A (en) * | 2012-04-12 | 2012-08-01 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Pattern making method of suit sleeve |
| CN102940333A (en) * | 2012-09-14 | 2013-02-27 | 胡亨有 | Original number tailoring method for clothing armhole |
| CN103284373A (en) * | 2013-05-09 | 2013-09-11 | 宁波大学 | Novel red group axis sleeve matching method |
| CN103622194A (en) * | 2013-05-23 | 2014-03-12 | 胡亨有 | YVW original data cutting method for automatically determining clothes armhole depth |
| JP5569996B1 (en) * | 2013-08-27 | 2014-08-13 | 株式会社 ｉ ｐｌｕｓ | clothing |
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Address after: No.32, west side of Hubin Road, Xuzhuang street, Gaogang District, Taizhou City, Jiangsu Province Patentee after: Hu Hengyou Address before: Yiwu city A District, Hu Zhailan Fan Town Yiwu city Zhejiang province 322009 Jinhua City Hu division clothing design studio Patentee before: Hu Hengyou |
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Effective date of registration: 20200529 Address after: 215200 No. 1188 west two ring road, Shengze Town, Wujiang District, Suzhou, Jiangsu. Patentee after: Suzhou Shengze science and Technology Pioneer Park Development Co.,Ltd. Address before: No.32, west side of Hubin Road, Xuzhuang street, Gaogang District, Taizhou City, Jiangsu Province Patentee before: Hu Hengyou |