CN106256276A - The BN former number design cutting-out method of door skimmed by clothing - Google Patents
The BN former number design cutting-out method of door skimmed by clothing Download PDFInfo
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- CN106256276A CN106256276A CN201610763255.2A CN201610763255A CN106256276A CN 106256276 A CN106256276 A CN 106256276A CN 201610763255 A CN201610763255 A CN 201610763255A CN 106256276 A CN106256276 A CN 106256276A
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- door
- line
- clothing
- collar
- neck
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
Abstract
The present invention relates to a kind of clothing and skim the BN former number design cutting-out method of door, collar, chest measurement, breastheight, clothing length, the former number of clothing specification of folded gate-width is determined according to anthropometric data and predetermined clothes fashion, if collar is N, chest measurement is B, determine that slash door cardinal B N, design are skimmed door line, and obtained skimming gate amount by B, N.Present invention achieves the BN former number design cutting-out method that a kind of cutting is quick, can meet the clothing slash door of the precision rate request that dress ornament is converted by garment market.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to dress designing cutting and manufacture field, especially relate to a kind of clothing and skim the BN former number design cutting of door
Method.
Background technology
Door skimmed by clothing, is the folded door promoting bending the to fold door style key technology that is obedient to human chest centre, right
Human comfort, bending is folded door style dress designing cutting manufacture critically important, prior art is thought for different garment type
Go out same skimming gate amount;The most representational Japan New Culture prototype, first draws and cuts out the prototype cardboard contrast without style name, then with warp
Test fixing a kind of skimming gate amount design, draw sanction bending and fold the garment piece of door style.These technology cannot according to human body breastheight not
Determine corresponding different skimming gate amount with protrusion degree, cause that comfort level is poor, the trial-manufacturing process length of clothing, cost manpower and materials relatively
Greatly, the style type change demand of inadaptable marketization clothing, greatly limit the development of clothing industry.
Publication date is on March 20th, 2016, and the Chinese patent document of Publication No. CN105433488A discloses a kind of clothes
Dress is closed the door the former number design cutting-out method that neck warps without definite value, determines in neck the former numbers of relevant specification such as width according to clothes fashion, passes through
In neck, width determines neck baseline, it is thus achieved that without definite value rising quantity.This cutting-out method design straight folds door, does not has skimming gate amount so that bending is folded
The chest center shape-designing of door configuration item of clothing is subject to many limitations.
The method of cutting out of above-mentioned technology deposits folded door in the indefinite problem of chest center moulding so that bending folds door style
The chest center variation in moulding of clothing is subject to many limitations, and the clothing of its cutting exist bigger the most true in terms of human comfort
Qualitative, it is impossible to meet the cutting requirement that garment piece chest protrudes the change of degree, also cannot meet current garment market to clothes
The precision rate request that variety is changed.
Summary of the invention
It is an object of the invention to: solve the bending of prior art fold existing for the tailoring method for clothes of door style time-consuming relatively
Long, the problems such as the precision rate request that dress ornament convert by current garment market cannot be met, it is provided that a kind of cutting fast, Ke Yiman
The BN former number design cutting-out method of door skimmed by the clothing of the precision rate request that dress ornament is converted by foot garment market.
The above-mentioned technical problem of the present invention is mainly addressed by following technical proposals: the former number of BN of door skimmed by clothing
Design cutting-out method, comprises the following steps:
A. the clothing rule of collar, chest measurement, breastheight, clothing length, folded gate-width are determined according to anthropometric data and predetermined clothes fashion
The former number of lattice, if collar be N, chest measurement be B.Here folded door refers to the part beyond front clothing center line, and the human chest that breastheight takes is
Protruding point to the distance value of front collar-shoulder point, folded gate-width, breastheight be not draw how much can, and must be according to anthropometric data
And clothes fashion predefines.
B. according to clothing center line before the former several pictures of clothing specification, on the right side of front clothing center line, the folded gate-width in interval draws straight folded door line, front
Clothing center line upper end determines the long point of front clothing, is spaced clothing center line after half chest measurement is drawn on the left of front clothing center line, true in rear clothing center line upper end
The long point of clothing after fixed, based on horizontal open-neck collar line after the rear clothing flat picture of long point, collar-shoulder point after rear horizontal open-neck collar line right-hand member determines, long based on front clothing
Point flat picture before horizontal open-neck collar line, before front horizontal open-neck collar line left end determines collar-shoulder point.Here forward and backward horizontal open-neck collar line length presses clothing money
Formula determines, and the length of forward and backward horizontal open-neck collar line is equal.
C. determine that slash door radix is BN, BN=(B-N) * 0.2, originate in the long point of front clothing, skim door radix along front horizontal open-neck collar line drawing
Line BN, is the most vertically drawn slash door baseline by skimming door radix line left end, wherein skims door base length=breastheight.The former number of clothing comprises human body
Metamorphosis amount, is determined slash door baseline by the former number of clothing, it is ensured that skimming gate amount changes with anthropometric data change, it is ensured that clothes
The human comfort of dress.
In step c: (B-N) * 0.2=BN, thus, the slash door design of various style type clothing can apply one public affairs
Formula is unifiedly calculated, it is not necessary to estimate by rule of thumb.
D. according to clothes fashion requirement, rear collar-shoulder point clothing center line after the connection of collar line after drawing, by front neck shoulder strokes and dots front neck
Door baseline is skimmed in contour connection, and front neck contour lower end is collar terminal.This step be to ensure that collar form not by skim door affected and
Destroy.
E. smooth for front neck contour lower end extension being extended front neck contour, its prolongation measures=fold gate-width, by extended line end down
Door line is skimmed in the straight folded door line drawing of connection, and the lower end skimming door line flushes on sustained height with the lower end skimming door baseline, skims door line upper end
And the spatial value between straight folded door line is skimming gate amount, skims door line and constitute curved folded door together with the straight folded door line skimming below door line lower end
Line, puts seam cutting according to curved folded door line, front neck contour, i.e. obtains bending and folds the clothing cutting plate of door style.
As preferably, in step d: before and after N/2=on the basis of collar line overall length, if collar line is with total before and after drawing
Long there is error, moves up and down front neck contour the most accordingly, its amount of movement=margin of error, and collar terminal joins with slash door baseline all the time
Knot, makes amount of movement represent in front collar-shoulder point upper and lower, then is as the criterion by front collar-shoulder point, and it is micro-that correction front neck contour upper end i.e. completes collar
Adjust.By moving up and down front neck contour, collar overall length can be made equal with collar specification consistent with anthropometric data, meet
The comfort level requirement of clothing.
According to anthropometric data and predetermined clothes fashion, the present invention determines that collar, chest measurement, breastheight, clothing are long, breastheight, folded
The former number of clothing of the region of interest such as gate-width, is determined slash door baseline by the former number of clothing, be ensure that skimming gate amount is with human figure change
The design result become, it is ensured that the human comfort demand of clothing.The present invention pertains only to clothing and skims the method for cutting out of door, other position
Tailoring technology or carried out another item application for a patent for invention, the present invention is not related to, the core of another item invention is not described in
Hold.It addition, the content that the present invention does not elaborates is prior art.Relevant code name in the present invention simply indicates that and other
A kind of symbol of the difference of method of cutting out.Cardboard can be drawn and be cut into clothing dieplate, model by the technology of the present invention, cuts out for picture
The clothing cutting plate of batch production, it is also possible to directly cloth is drawn and be cut into single-piece tailored costume garment piece.The present invention the most additionally draws
Paper cutting board, to compared estimate, can be achieved with picture according to the former several designs of clothing and cuts out fit garment piece, be a kind of former number of simple and practical clothing
Cutting-out method.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows: solve the bending of prior art and fold existing for the tailoring method for clothes of door style
Time-consuming longer, the problems such as the precision rate request that dress ornament converts by current garment market cannot be met, it is achieved that a kind of cutting is fast
The former number of BN of prompt, can to meet the precision rate request that dress ornament is converted by garment market clothing slash door designs cutting-out method.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the BN former number design cutting-out method schematic diagram of the clothing slash door of the present invention.
In figure: 1. clothing center line before, 2. straight folded door line, 3. before the long point of clothing, 4. after clothing center line, 5. after the long point of clothing, 6. after horizontal open
Neck line, 7. after collar-shoulder point, 8. before horizontal open-neck collar line, 9. before collar-shoulder point, 10. skim door baseline, collar line after 11., 12. front neck contours,
13. collar line terminals, 14. skim door line, and 15. skimming gate amounts, BN. skims door radix line.
Detailed description of the invention
Below by embodiment, and combine accompanying drawing, technical scheme is described in further detail.
Embodiment 1
In embodiment 1 as shown in Figure 1, the BN former number design cutting-out method of door skimmed by a kind of clothing, it is characterised in that include following
Step:
A. the clothing rule of collar, chest measurement, breastheight, clothing length, folded gate-width are determined according to anthropometric data and predetermined clothes fashion
The former number of lattice, if collar be N, chest measurement be B;
B. according to clothing center line 1 before the former several pictures of clothing specification, on the right side of front clothing center line, the folded gate-width in interval draws straight folded door line 2, at front clothing
Center line upper end determines the long point 3 of front clothing, is spaced clothing center line 4 after half chest measurement is drawn on the left of front clothing center line, true in rear clothing center line upper end
The long point 5 of clothing after fixed, based on horizontal open-neck collar line 6 after the rear clothing flat picture of long point, collar-shoulder point 7 after rear horizontal open-neck collar line right-hand member determines, based on front
Horizontal open-neck collar line 8 before the clothing flat picture of long point, before front horizontal open-neck collar line left end determines collar-shoulder point 9.
C. determine that slash door radix is BN, BN=(B-N) * 0.2, originate in the long point of front clothing, skim door radix along front horizontal open-neck collar line drawing
Line BN, is the most vertically drawn slash door baseline 10 by skimming door radix line left end, wherein skims door base length=breastheight.
D. according to clothes fashion requirement, rear collar-shoulder point clothing center line after collar line 11 connects after drawing, before front neck shoulder strokes and dots
Door baseline is skimmed in collar line 12 connection, and front neck contour lower end is collar terminal 13.
E. smooth for front neck contour lower end extension being extended front neck contour, its prolongation measures=fold gate-width, by extended line end down
Door line 14 is skimmed in the straight folded door line drawing of connection, and the lower end skimming door line flushes on sustained height with the lower end skimming door baseline, skims on door line
Spatial value between end and straight folded door line is skimming gate amount 15, skims door line and constitutes curved together with the straight folded door line skimming below door line lower end
Folded door line, puts seam cutting according to curved folded door line, front neck contour, i.e. obtains bending and folds the clothing cutting plate of door style.
The present invention is in step c: (B-N) * 0.2BN, and thus, the slash door design of various style type clothing can apply one
Road formula unified calculation, does not estimates by rule of thumb.
Embodiment 2
Embodiment 2 is in step d of embodiment 1: before and after N/2=on the basis of collar line overall length, if collar line before and after drawing
With overall length, error occurs, moves up and down front neck contour the most accordingly, its amount of movement=margin of error, collar terminal all the time with skim door base
Line connects, and makes amount of movement represent in front collar-shoulder point upper and lower, then is as the criterion by front collar-shoulder point, revises front neck contour upper end and i.e. completes collar
Fine setting.Remaining is identical with embodiment 1.
It is the most applicable and the most another that the bending of breastheight point difference protrusion degree is folded door dress designing by the method for cutting out of the present invention
Outer picture paper cutting board, to compared estimate, has the features such as easy to operate, slash door is accurate.The bending solving prior art folds door style
Existing for tailoring method for clothes time-consuming longer, the precision rate request etc. that dress ornament converts by current garment market cannot be met ask
Topic, it is achieved that a kind of cutting is quick, can meet the BN of the clothing slash door of the precision rate request that dress ornament is converted by garment market
Former number design cutting-out method.
Claims (2)
1. the BN former number design cutting-out method that door skimmed by clothing, it is characterised in that comprise the following steps:
A. the clothing rule of collar, chest measurement, breastheight, clothing length, folded gate-width are determined according to anthropometric data and predetermined clothes fashion
The former number of lattice, if collar be N, chest measurement be B;
B. according to clothing center line (1) before the former several pictures of clothing specification, on the right side of front clothing center line, the folded gate-width in interval draws straight folded door line (2),
Front clothing center line upper end determines the long point of front clothing (3), is spaced clothing center line (4) after half chest measurement is drawn, on the left of front clothing center line in rear clothing
Line upper end determines the long point of rear clothing (5), based on horizontal open-neck collar line (6) after the rear clothing flat picture of long point, leads after rear horizontal open-neck collar line right-hand member determines
Shoulder point (7), based on horizontal open-neck collar line (8) before the front clothing flat picture of long point, before front horizontal open-neck collar line left end determines collar-shoulder point (9);
C. determine that slash door radix is BN, BN=(B-N) * 0.2, originate in the long point of front clothing, skim door radix line along front horizontal open-neck collar line drawing
BN, is the most vertically drawn slash door baseline (10) by skimming door radix line left end, wherein skims door base length=breastheight;
D. according to clothes fashion requirement, rear collar-shoulder point clothing center line after collar line (11) connection after drawing, by front neck shoulder strokes and dots front neck
Door baseline is skimmed in contour (12) connection, and front neck contour lower end is collar terminal (13);
E. smooth for front neck contour lower end extension being extended front neck contour, its prolongation measures=fold gate-width, extended line end down connect
Door line (14) is skimmed in straight folded door line drawing, and the lower end skimming door line flushes on sustained height with the lower end skimming door baseline, skims door line upper end
And the spatial value between straight folded door line is skimming gate amount (15), skims door line and constitute curved together with the straight folded door line skimming below door line lower end
Folded door line, puts seam cutting according to curved folded door line, front neck contour, i.e. obtains bending and folds the clothing cutting plate of door style.
The BN former number design cutting-out method of door skimmed by clothing the most according to claim 1, it is characterised in that in step d: with N/2
=front and back on the basis of collar line overall length, if error occur in collar line and overall length before and after drawing, move up and down front collar the most accordingly
Line, its amount of movement=margin of error, collar terminal connects with slash door baseline all the time, makes amount of movement represent in front collar-shoulder point upper and lower, then by
Front collar-shoulder point is as the criterion, and revises front neck contour upper end and i.e. completes collar fine setting.
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CN201610763255.2A CN106256276B (en) | 2016-08-29 | 2016-08-29 | Clothes skim the former number design cutting-out methods of BN of door |
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Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN107411207A (en) * | 2017-07-11 | 2017-12-01 | 胡亨有 | Clothes connect collar NG originals number design cutting-out method |
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CN1459260A (en) * | 2002-05-21 | 2003-12-03 | 葛俊康 | Method for determining basic dimension of opening of front part when cutting cloth |
CN1762260A (en) * | 2004-10-20 | 2006-04-26 | 葛俊康 | Method for determining basic chest dart size of men's clothes |
CN102132966A (en) * | 2011-03-21 | 2011-07-27 | 东华大学 | Method for making fit chamfering one-piece sleeve with dynamic and static balance effect prediction |
CN203873069U (en) * | 2014-06-11 | 2014-10-15 | 王凤岐 | Multifunctional dart-value conversion prototype formwork |
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US3883955A (en) * | 1969-06-11 | 1975-05-20 | Roberta F Bush | Pattern fitting tool and method of custom fitting patterns |
SU612678A1 (en) * | 1975-11-10 | 1978-06-30 | Центральный Научно-Исследовательский Институт Швейной Промышленности | Method of drafting men's garment with shoulders |
DE10136074A1 (en) * | 2001-07-25 | 2003-02-20 | Annegret Brinkmann-Stieler | Sizing women's outerwear involves computerised calculation of increased chest measurements |
CN1459260A (en) * | 2002-05-21 | 2003-12-03 | 葛俊康 | Method for determining basic dimension of opening of front part when cutting cloth |
CN1762260A (en) * | 2004-10-20 | 2006-04-26 | 葛俊康 | Method for determining basic chest dart size of men's clothes |
CN102132966A (en) * | 2011-03-21 | 2011-07-27 | 东华大学 | Method for making fit chamfering one-piece sleeve with dynamic and static balance effect prediction |
CN203873069U (en) * | 2014-06-11 | 2014-10-15 | 王凤岐 | Multifunctional dart-value conversion prototype formwork |
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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CN107411207A (en) * | 2017-07-11 | 2017-12-01 | 胡亨有 | Clothes connect collar NG originals number design cutting-out method |
CN107411207B (en) * | 2017-07-11 | 2018-12-18 | 胡亨有 | Clothes connect collar NG original number design cutting-out method |
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