SU612678A1 - Method of drafting men's garment with shoulders - Google Patents

Description

one

This invention relates to the sewing industry.

Computational and analytical methods are known for constructing a male BepxEiero shoulder product 1 template. According to the computational-analytical methods, product drawings are constructed by geometrical and graphic unfolding of smoothed outlines of a human figure with the necessary additions to free fit and decoration. The basis of the dimensional characteristics of the figure is the tribute of anthropometric measurements of the population of 1960-1964.

The calculation formulas used in the construction are based on relationships established by mathematical analysis of anthropometric data or on the basis of an experiment with subsequent mathematical processing of data.

Known methods, due to incomplete use of measurements, allow only approximate patterns of male shoulder products to be obtained, which leads to the appearance of defects in the fit of products on a human figure. In this case, a prerequisite is to check the design of the manufacture of one or more samples of the product and making the fittings.

A known method of constructing a template for a male upper garment product, preferably a jacket, concludes that a 1kalp line is twisted, ia KOTOpoii mark the starting points and the middle of the sprout, shoulder blade projection, chest and waist, and hips, from the resulting points horizontal lines are laid on which, respectively, the size of the body is laid, the back widths are laid, the royms and li breasts determine the top of the sprout and throat flanks, the humeral shoulder points and the little egg followed by the connected dots

2

However, this method does not take into account all factors, the influence of yupdih on the quality of iosadka products on the figure of a person. Due to the fact that the humeral point in anthropology is defined as the point of the upper outer end of the acromion process of the scapula and its position does not correspond to the position of the humeral point taken in the garment industry, the shoulder seam of the product constructed by this method takes the unnatural position that causes defects in the fit of the product and figure.

In addition, finding the top of the armhole is extremely cumbersome and does not seem to have a clear, definite connection with the posture of the figure and, therefore, the balance of the product and the figure.

, The aim of the invention is to eliminate these drawbacks and improve the fit of products on a human figure by obtaining more accurate patterns.

This goal is achieved due to the fact that the starting point of a sprout is determined by laying on a vertical line from its intersection point with a waistline, which is taken as the starting point for constructing a value corresponding to the length of the back to the waist, taking into account the protrusion of the blades, from the difference in the magnitude of the position of the body and the waist depth first, then the resulting point is connected to the point of projection of the shoulder blades, waist and hips, and the middle line of the back is obtained, the line of germ, chest, waist, hips and bottom of the product perpendicular to the centerline of the backrest, then lay the width of the product along the waist line and determine the half-point of the product, from which the hyperpulum is restored to the waist line and lay on it upwards the value corresponding to the difference between the chest height and waist height, and from the obtained point the horizontal is drawn and the value equal to half the difference of the anteroposterior diameter of the waist taking into account the depth of the waist of the first and anteroposterior diameter of the breast is laid in the direction of the crochet, and the resulting point is connected to the point nolusanos and get a line of half-bodies, to the last they restore the perpendicular p to the intersection with the waist lipid, the value of which corresponds to the distance between the points of the breast points, by selection, and the position of the chest line of the shelf is determined as the difference between the length of the waist in front and the height of the chest, which is laid the half-body lines from the waist line of the shelf are up, then the chest, thigh and bottom of the shelf lines are perpendicular to the half-body line.

In the new dimensional typology, anthropologists provide balance measurements relative to the horizontal section of the waist. Therefore, in the proposed method, all constructions are also made relative to the waistline.

The question of the true position of the waistline on the plane of the contour is always difficult to solve. An analysis of dummies made on a new dimensional typology showed that the waistline is closely related to the position of the half-mounted line of the floor and the middle back seam on the plane, the finding of which is the key to solving this problem.

With the introduction of additional dimensional features to the new dimensional typology (OST 17-325-74), it became possible to build individual units of the product with maximum use of the measurements of the figure without the use of design formulas. This applies primarily to the question of finding the "balance of the product, which, in accordance with the proposed method, is determined by the position

the points of the top of the sprout and the top of the neckline relative to the waist, as well as the position of the shoulder points of the back and the floor.

Suidency of the invention is illustrated in the drawing, which shows the construction of a template for a male upper shoulder article (jacket) according to the proposed method.

The construction of the pattern begins with the construction of the back of the jacket. The initial horizontal and vertical lines are drawn through the T point.

On the vertical, the level of the germ (TA), the shoulder blades (AU) and the position of the hip line (T B) are determined:

, „

. AU O.ZD „,

GB 0,5Ls - 2.5.

Horizontal lines are drawn through the points L, Y, 7, B.

Then the shape osapa is determined by the formula

AA, G, 1 - 0.3.

ps

To the left of point B lay a segment

BB - Au.

Depending on the silhouette, the flatness of the midline of the tit around the waist fluctuates between points 7 and Gy and in the area of the hips - and about.

For products of a straight silhouette, the centerline of the back is guided through points Aa, U, BO, and for products that fit snugly, its silhouette goes through points AO, U, T, and the point oi is located at the intersection of the BBZ line with the straight line from point t parallel.

The length of the product lay in the midline of the back, get the point HI.

Waist, hip and bottom lines are drawn from points Гь -6о1 and Hi perpendicular to the midline of the back.

The sprout is built perpendicularly at the point Lo to the straight LoU.

The width of the germ LOL1 is equal to

 + P,

shr

The height of the germ L1L2 is laid up from the point AI along the perpendicular to the line of the width of the germ:

LL OL2Ssh + I, p.

The sprout line is formed by a smooth curve between the points Lo and Ls.

To find the position of the humeral point I from the apex of the germ Lz, an arc with a radius equal to the dimension I / d is taken. From a point T with a radius equal to the measure (, 5), an arc intersects the first. The point of intersection of the arcs - I - is the humeral point. Point I is connected by a straight line with point AZ, and the line of the shoulder edge is obtained.

The depth of the back of the armhole is determined by the measurement of the height of the armhole in the back. On the middle line of the back from the point of the AO downward they lay off the AouG segment (,:

 h -tnpaThe lines of the depth of the armhole of the back, corresponding to the posterior corner of the submature depression, run along the perpendicular at point Gp to the straight line of the cob. when it is crossed with the line of the LPB, they put a POINT Go. From the point Gsch they put off the pyri from the calculations and put the Gog point. From the point Go2, the line parallel to the Ubo line is down. BEFORE intersection with the waistline at Ha. Down the GoTz line from point Go2, lay the amount of the inlet of the armhole Yapr 02 1 CONFIRMATION of the point D (the right is horizontal - the line of the depth of the armhole for the backrest. To determine the position of the top edge of the side edge, the sheet is 5.5 cm up to the right of this point -1.0 cm. Polucheppa Gro point - the top of the lateral edge of the backrest.

In order to form a bulge, which is necessary for fusing the blades, the product provides for a stitch on the armholes. The size of the slut 0.5-0.7 cm at the level of the blades. In addition, a prick or tuck is projected on the shoulder edge of the back. Get it out by making a template.

The width of the waistline is waist-TtT-. Point H is found by laying a segment from point To to the left.

TT, 1.5 - 2.0 cm.

The width of the back in the hips and the bottom line is

BO, BZ. //, // 3 TTs.

In accordance with the model, the width of the back along the bottom line may be 1.0 cm greater than the width of the back along the waist.

Connect the straight lines of the points G52 and Tt. G, and N. The side edge above the waistline is SHAPED with a smooth concave line.

Then go t to build the flooring. From the TZ point to the right horizontally lay the segment TgGob.

, armhole width + hiirin floors-1 + G8.0-10.0 cm).

8.0-10.0 cm - size, it is necessary in order that the drawing of a back did not find floors on a drawing.

From the Gov point, a second source vertical is drawn. The level of the nipple point is determined by laying off the segment P "Гп from the point Tns upwards ;;

 A 61 -

where is the height of the nipple point; BLT - height of the waist line.

From the point Гг, 1 to the left horizontally lay the segment Гв | Гб2.

„., (+ AI) ROM

 61 62 9

where (pc - anteroposterior diameter of the waist Gt1 - first waist depth; (tnr - anteroposterior diameter of the chest; - lpnp semi-skid without taking into account the protrusion zhvvota.

The perpendicular to the intersection with the horizontal T is restored to the line of the semi-skid. so that its value is equal to the measurement of CT. PL I „

Where GzGG, - waistline on the field.

From the point TS upward along the line of the half-carp they lay a piece, define ush, t1I position of the line of crowns:

T G - 77 - R

 S with - ATP - GOTS POINT TS lay a segment equal to 5 liters; T, T ,, B „36 - + Pi),

where GTTT is the depth of talni the second.

The points Gy and Tros connect the straight line, continuing downwards from the point Tgn, parallel to the semi-skid line without taking into account the protrusion of the reed.

Get a line of half-ban without the projection of the abdomen. Parallel to this line and

to the left of it at a distance equal to the width

floors are direct. Its intersection with the descendant horizontal T is designated as TT.

To build a barrel cutting line, the floors to the left horizontally from the point Tu lay 4.5 cm, marking the Tip point on the horizontal. Through the obtained point, the stomach is held straight parallel to the line of the half-skid without taking into account the protrusion of the stomach -. GroT.

At point Gb to LINT1I, the perpendicular g GrGt is restored to the semi-skid.

g, g, and ,.

Point Гт- center breast. From point G to the left, a straight line parallel to the TinTe waist is drawn to the intersection with the width of the FLOOR at the point Um. Connect the straight line

points r .1 and gv. From point Gt to THIS the straight line is lowered perpendicular, l p - point Hz.

To complete the assignment by, P1tnpP, and tusanos, from the Gu point, they lay up a segment of GvGs, equal to GtGt.

Connect the line point G-; and G. At point G to the straight line GuG, restore the perpendicular p upwards, get a semi-skid line.

To determine the top of the mouth, in the upper part of the semi-mantle, direct, paral, half-anosilanus lines, np pasto npi, equal to the width of the germ AaAi, are carried out. On this line, they make a notch with a radius equal to

Twg7L42.

- e-i - tp1 b (Aci tS1fa ,,)

TO Dgn1 - distance from the point of the base of the neck to the waistline in front;

Dts1 is the distance from the waist line to the back of the neck and the neck;

Dts fak, is the distance from the irendiculum, which is at the T point to the midline and the waist level, to the highest point AZ of the germ in the drawing.

This value is measured by the aralella of the average HLI of the shiki at a distance equal to the width of the germ.

Point - the top of the neck. From the point / /, 2 they are perpendicular to the line of the i-lusanos - the point Ls2.

The depth of the neck is determined by the segment Loo; 2;

LZI., 2 0,45Сш.

Line up the neckline. For this, r, points L /, 2 n R, 2 with a radius equal to L3, L.59, conduct a viravo from the Lzz point of the arc and their points of intersection with the same radius and conduct the throat line L /. ALb.

To determine the nano-index and the lechevus point from the point Lgo, make the notch with radius equal to the measure /// c. The second arc intersecting iervuyu. From the Tgo point with a radius equal to Si, Kri + l, 5 cm, where 5п1ш is the height of the shoulder braid on the front.

The point of intersection of the arcs-point I; -, - is true and iroyma NOLA.

From the point of GB, at a distance of 4 cm, an ir-parallel to the half-body line without the projection of the abdomen is drawn and the point T.i and the waistline are set. The size of the front tuck solution for all sizes is constant and equal to 1.5 cm / Sbn1 7dG9 |, therefore, G479 7 / T 1 0.75 cm. The dart is above the waist 12 cm. Below the waist the sides of the dart are parallel to the liiipolusanos.

The position of the pocket line is determined by the segment T t K:

-I t / -Dts

3.0 cm

Through point K, a straight, parallel waistline is drawn,. The intersection of this line with the right side of the tuck denote / С | - the front end of the pocket, and with the line of removal of the barrel floor - the point K {.

At the point / Csi, the perpendicular to K ,, is restored, which crosses the Taline line at the point Gtg. On the continuation of the given perpendicular from the point Tiz lay a segment

equal, definite depth of the armhole:

 V 1/72 42A2 through the A2, the armhole floors and barrel are horizontally aligned to the intersection with the TvAi line at point A and the barrel cut line and the floor at point 50.

From the point AJ, they lay half the width of the iroyma and put the point А- Up along the perpendicular to the line of the stroma from the point A, they lay the segment G. Pk equal to 5.5 cm.

Through the points / tsi, ya nn And make out an armhole nol.

GuyGa waistline - waistline with tuck closed. When opening, the front of the tuck waistline will change its position. For pahozhdeii it from the point TD and arc arc of a radius equal to the length of the not-average tuck beyond the waist line. Upward from the point of intersection) 1n of this arc, with the extension of the waist line, lay 0.75 cm. The resulting point is connected to the point Go and the lihai of the waist is obtained with an open dart that intersects with the line cut side of the barrel at the Hz point.

When the tuck is open, point 51 shifts to point 52., point / Csi - to point Kg, and point Yae1 - to point 52

I, „/ 7 ,, 51 ,,, / Г, Ao T ,,.

On the continuation of the line / Ce / C lay a segment equal to the solution of chest embroider K.iKo.

In order to obtain a tuck but not a pocket pocket solution from the point Ki, they allow the nerndiculum to cut the barrel floor.

Trim the sides of the tuck pocket line.

AjAj Kt, K, o.

From the point K, they can be irradiated and the cut line of the barrel is defined below the pocket.

From the TSO point down the line of the half-body, they lay a segment (determined by the position of the thigh line at zero:

  B.

The line of the hips on the field goes perpendicular to the line of semi-embosses. Its intersection with the line of cut barrels floors mark the point B ,,.

The position of the bottom line of the half-carcass is determined by the segment.

T, „H, T, H, + 1.5 cm.

After this, they build a barrel. The barrel cut line defines the vertical,

omitted from point 52. Its intersection with the armhole line is marked with point 5, and the horizontal T is marked with a point Te-Down from the point Tf, n lay off the segment Ar.Soi and carry out the horizontal:

7 fi - TK

 60-Ob1

The amount of lead of the barrel at the top but the line of the armhole is determined by the segment G; .250. From point 5 horizontally lay segment A250 to the left and put point 53:

Az - 50 5 - 53.

From the 7b point downwards, a segment equal to TnC is laid, the dot / Csa- dot / Crg is connected to the dot 53 with a straight line - a barrel cut line. At the intersection with the horizontal T put the point T-. The width of the barrel along the line G is equal to:

53A I / pr - L50 - 1.0 cm.

At a point Gb to the mountain horizon, a perpendicular p of 5.5 cm is restored - the AzShirin point of the barrel along the thigh line is determined, based on the increase in free fit on the hip line Yab:

  (Cg + Yab) - (Soils + 8o58,),

where BshchBz - the width of the back along the hips;

80/58 - Shiriya floors to the cut line of the barrel but the line of the hips.

Connect the line with a line of gvz and b &. The point of intersection of this straight line is with the horizontal T-TSI.

In order to obtain the desired waistband of the product and the waistline, the difference between the back width (T, T3), the floor (TtfiTeTso) and the barrel () by the waist and (St + I,), i.e., is determined.

(Г, Гз + ГмППо +, 7 ,.) - (С, + Я,).

The resulting value is distributed to the deflections along the side edge of the barrel and along the cut line of the barrel, receive, respectively, points Т „„ TI :; and .. Equalize the lengths of the segments:

G ,, 52,

G, A, PL.

the barrel is shaped with dots Gg, 1 and 54.

To build a liner blade, level the side edge of the barrel along the side edge of the back:

T, H, ZZ. GZYAZ.

Lipi bottom barrel goes horizontally. At the intersection with the cut line of the barrel put a point He.

The corresponding point on the field is found by equalizing the segments.

 + TlS / G The obtained point Yab1 is connected by a straight line to the point Hg ,. The bottom line of the floor is decorated with a smooth line.

After building the armhole, measure the length of the lens but the drawing, subtract the pad for the prick but on the back of the arm and compare the calculated value with the calculated one calculated by the formula:

Д „р 0,25С, + 1,6Ш„ р + 2Я, „р + 7,0 сm.

The permissible deviation of the actual length of the armhole from the calculated one is ± 0.5 cm. The allowance for nodilechnik in the bodice is added to the back and the field equally, respectively, at the points I and

I52

The drawing of the product according to the proposed method can be used for various technological processing, as it is taken into account

when making templates. Using the proposed method of building men's shoulder products can significantly reduce the time required to perform the necessary calculations and build drawings, eliminate the preliminary testing and refinement of templates for manufacturing samples and improve the fit of products by maximizing the use of typical measurements.

figures, to increase the satisfaction of the population of ready-made clothing.

Form m y. 4 a and 3 o b e te n u

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The way of constructing the male shoulder upper arm, mainly of a jacket, consists in that. that they draw a vertical line, on which they mark the starting points and the middle of the sprout, the protrusion of the shoulder blades, the breast, waist and hip protrusions; horizontal lines are drawn from the obtained points, on which the

shells, widths of spells, armholes and shelves and define the top of the germ and the flange, humeral points of speckle and shelves with the subsequent connection of the points, so that, in order to improve the fit of the product and the figure of a person by obtaining a more accurate template, the initial sprout is determined by laying on a vertical lin from its point of intersection with the waistline, which

at the beginning of the starting point is greatness corresponding to the length of the waist up to the waist, taking into account the projection of the blades, and the midpoint of the sprout is determined from the difference between the size of the body position and the depth of the first, then the resulting point is connected with the protrusion of the blades, the waist and the thighs and get the average the line of the blueka, the lines of the sprout, the breast, the waist, the hips and the bottom of the product, is perpendicular to the centerline of the back, then the shirp is deposited and, waist 1, the point of the appearance of the product is determined, from which the non-endnest is restored l p to the line ta, 1i and lay on it upwards the value corresponding to the difference

the height of the chest and the height of the Talpp line, and from the point of reception a horizontal horizon is made and the bruises of the nyelpshiu rabbi half the difference from the front and rear waist diameter are laid to the side, taking into account the depth of the waist of the first and the front and the back gauge. and the resulting POINT is connected to the half-point and the tanzanos, and the perpendicular is restored to the last point before intersection with the waistline, the size of which is

corresponds to the distance of the ishod of the protruding HJHMH breast points and selection, and the position of the grldi line of the shelf is oired, 1 flow as the difference between the waist length between the shoulders and the height of the chest, which is laid along the half-line from the waist line of the shelf shelves up, then draw the chest lines, hips and bottom of the shelf perpendicular to the line of semi-bodies. Sources of information taken into account in the examination 1. Unified methodology for designing clothes. Men's clothing. M., 1967. 2. Author's certificate of the USSR №101247, cl. A 41H 3/00, 1954,

AO

101

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