RU2311861C2 - Method for plotting of pattern for man's overall - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: sewing industry.

SUBSTANCE: method involves performing short measuring of figure; selecting structural allowance values; plotting basis grid network from horizontal and vertical lines; plotting back and strip parts integral with rear and front parts of trousers, respectively; for determining waist line level, laying-off from neck point downward the value corresponding to total of dimensional feature "length of back to waist" and allowance value for dynamics; finding ends of shoulder lines of overall figure back and strip as point of intersection of two arcs of circle: first arc of circle being drawn from beginning of shoulder lines and having radius equal to total of dimensional feature "width of shoulder slope" and allowance value, and second arc of circle being drawn from points of intersection of vertical lines of back mid portion and strip with horizontal line of waist and having radius equal to value of dimensional feature "skew height of shoulder" and allowance value; defining level of armhole depth line by laying-off upward from waist line the value equal to total of new dimensional feature "lateral length of waist" and allowance value; plotting armhole lower portion by "radiusography" method; defining level of line of fold under buttocks by laying-off downward from waist line the value equal to total of new dimensional feature "distance from waist line to fold under buttocks" and allowance value; defining knee line level by laying-off from line of fold under buttocks the value equal to total of new dimensional feature "distance from fold under buttocks to knee line" and allowance value; defining lower edge level by laying-off the value of dimensional feature "height of knee" and allowance value.

EFFECT: improved anthropometrical conformance of pattern for man's overall in static state and in dynamics on performing by man of accustomed movements.

2 dwg, 1 tbl

Description

The invention relates to the clothing industry, and in particular to methods for constructing patterns used for cutting out clothing details.

There is a method of constructing a pattern of male overalls [1], which consists in measuring dimensional characteristics: height, third chest circumference, hip circumference, side leg length, sitting height, choosing values of constructive increments to dimensional characteristics, building a basic grid of horizontal lines of the chest, waist, hips, podjagodichnaya folds, knee, bottom and a line passing through the neck point, and vertical lines that limit the width of the back, armholes, shelves of the camp overalls, the fold lines of the front and back of the trousers of the overalls, calculating parameters of the structural sections: the width of the back, armhole and ledge and determining the level of the depth of the armhole using one dimensional feature - “chest circumference third”, finding the level of the waist line, using only the dimensional feature “growth” in the calculation formula, determining the level of the line of the sublingual fold through the value of the dimension sign “seat height” without taking into account the structural gain, determining the level of the knee line through the new dimension sign “step length” equal to the difference between the signs “leg length on the side” and “height visi 'constructing the front and rear trouser suit, one-piece with the shelf and a back coverall mill respectively.

The disadvantage of this method is the low accuracy of the patterns, expressed in the need for their adjustment, taking into account the physique and the nature of the usual movements of a person.

A known method of constructing a pattern of male overalls [2], which consists in measuring dimensional characteristics: the length of the back to the waist, half of the neck, half of the chest third, half of the waist, half of the hips, the length of the legs on the side, the choice of the values of constructive increments to the dimensional characteristics, the construction of the base grid from horizontal lines of the chest, waist, hips, hyoid fold, knee, bottom and a line passing through the cervical point, and vertical lines that limit the width of the back, armholes, shelves of the overalls mill, the front and the bottom of the overalls, calculating the parameters of the structural sections: the width of the back, armholes and shelves using one dimension sign - “third half-circumference”, finding the level of the waist line, using only the dimension sign “back to waist length” in the calculation formula, without taking into account the structural gain , determining the level of the depth of the armhole depth line as 1/3 of the size of the dimension sign “back to waist length”, finding the level of the line of the sublingual fold as 1/2 of the size of the dimension sign “half circumference of the hips”, post oenii front and rear trouser suit, one-piece with the shelf and a back mill coverall respectively.

The disadvantage of this method is that when constructing equality of structural sections: the width of the back and shelves and the determination of the level of the waist line through the dimensional sign "length of the back to the waist" without taking into account the structural gain, which does not contribute to ensuring anthropometric compliance of the product with the size of the human body when performing the usual movements.

As a prototype, we used a method for constructing a male overalls template [3], which consists in measuring dimensional characteristics: length of the back to the waist, back width, third chest circumference, hip circumference, leg length on the side, choosing values of constructive increments to dimensional characteristics, building a basic grid from horizontal lines of the chest, waist, hips, hyoid fold, knee, bottom and a line passing through the cervical point, and vertical lines that limit the width of the back, armhole, shelf of the overalls, bending lines of the front and back th trousers of overalls, calculating the parameters of structural sections: the width of the armhole and shelf, the height of the knee and determining the level line of the depth of the armhole using one dimensional sign - “chest circumference”, the back width - using the dimensional sign “back width”, finding the level of the waist line using in the calculation formula only the dimensional sign “length of the back to the waist” without taking into account the structural gain, determining the level of the line of the hyoid fold through the size of the dimension sign “girth of the hips” taking into account the structural increase, determining the position of the end of the shoulder line of the back constructively, by deferring the specified values of the segments, the same for all sizes and growths, determining the position of the end of the shoulder line of the shelf by drawing a segment through the point of start of the shoulder line of the shelf and the auxiliary point located on the height line of the armhole of the back, the construction of the front and rear parts of the overall overalls with the shelf and back of the overalls mill, respectively, the construction of the line of the armhole of the back and the shelf at two points - the ends of the shoulder lines and the bottom of the armhole.

The disadvantage of this method is the low accuracy of the resulting patterns, since the values of the structural parameters are determined by the calculation-proportional method using a minimum number of dimensional features.

The technical result of the claimed invention is to increase the anthropometric compliance of the pattern of the male overalls in statics and dynamics when a person performs the usual movements.

The specified technical result is achieved by the fact that in the method of constructing a pattern of male overalls, including measuring dimensional features of a figure, selecting values of constructive additions to dimensional characteristics, choosing design formulas, constructing a base mesh from horizontal lines of the chest, waist, hips, subglichal fold, knee, bottom and a line passing through the cervical point, and vertical lines that limit the width of the back, armholes, shelves of the overalls mill, bending lines of the front and back of the overalls, building a joint Incas and shelves, one-piece with the back and front of the trousers, respectively, the construction of the neckline, shoulder lines, armholes, mid back and shelves, side, step, middle and waist lines, according to the invention determine the level of the waist line, laying off from the neck point down equal to the sum of the dimensional sign “back to waist length” and increase in dynamics, find the ends of the shoulder lines of the back and the shelf of the overalls as the intersection point of two arcs: the first is drawn from the beginning of the shoulder lines with a radius equal to the sum dimension sign “width of the shoulder slope” and increase, the second - from the points of intersection of the vertical lines of the middle of the back and the shelf with a horizontal waist line with a radius equal to the size of the dimension sign “shoulder height oblique”, measured in dynamics when the body is tilted forward by an angle of 90 °, s taking into account the increase, determine the level of the depth of the armhole, laying upwards from the waist line the amount equal to the sum of the new dimension sign “waist length to the side”, measured from the waist line to the back corner of the armpit in the sitting position on the stu f with the arms raised up and the palms touching with the backs, and the increase, the lower section of the armhole is constructed by the method of radiography, the level of the line of the sublingual fold is determined, laying down the value equal to the sum of the new dimensional sign “distance from the waistline to the sublingual fold”, measured when the body is tilted forward by 90 °, and increases, the level of the knee line is determined, laying off from the line of the hyoid fold the amount equal to the sum of the new dimensional sign “distance from the hyoid warehouse and to the knee line ”, measured in a person sitting on a chair from the hyoid fold to the knee point, and the increase, the level of the bottom line is determined by deferring the value of the dimensional sign“ knee height ”, measured in the sitting position on the chair when bending the legs in the knee joint at an angle of 90 °, taking into account the increase.

The invention is illustrated by drawings, which show:

- figure 1 - template overalls for men according to the claimed method;

- figure 2 is a comparative analysis of the patterns of overalls for a new method and prototype.

The method is as follows.

Measure the dimensional signs of the figure:

- static: third chest girth, hips, knee girth, length of the back to the waist, width of the shoulder ramp, back width, chest width, anteroposterior arm diameter;

- dynamic: the height of the shoulder is oblique, the height of the knee;

- new dimensional signs: the length of the waist on the side, the distance from the waistline to the hyoid fold, the distance from the hyoid fold to the knee line.

The values of constructive increments to the measured dimensional characteristics are selected.

A vertical line is drawn, the upper end is indicated by point A (Fig. 1), from which the segment AT is laid down, which determines the level of the waist line:

AT = D _tf + P _Dts ,

where D _tf - dimensional sign "the length of the back to the waist";

P _Dts - a constructive increase to the specified dimensional characteristic.

Determine the level of the line of the chest. To do this, from the obtained point T lay up the segment of the TG equal to:

TG = D _t.sb + P _Dt.sb ,

where D _tsb - a new dimensional sign “waist length to the side”, measured from the waist line to the back corner of the armpit in the sitting position on a chair with arms raised up and the palms touching with the back sides;

P _Dt.sb - a constructive increase to a dimensional characteristic.

Find the level of the hips line, laying down the TB segment = 19 cm for all sizes down from point T.

Determine the level of the line of the sublingual fold according to the formula:

THY = P _t.c.c. + P _Rt.c.c. ,

where R _t.s. - a new dimensional sign “the distance from the waistline to the hyoid fold”, measured from the waistline to the level of the hyoid fold when the body is tilted forward by an angle of 90 °;

P _RT.p.s - a constructive increase to a dimensional sign.

Find the level of the knee line by the formula:

YAK = P _P.S.K. + P _R.P.S. ,

where R _p.s. - a new dimensional sign “the distance from the hyoid fold to the knee line”, measured in a sitting position on the chair from the hyoid fold to the knee point;

P _Rp.s.k. - a constructive increase to a dimensional sign.

The level of the bottom line is determined by the formula:

KN = B _to '+ P _Bk ',

where In _to - dimensional sign "knee height", measured by bending the legs in the knee joint at an angle of 90 °;

P _VK - a constructive increase to the dimensional characteristic.

Through the obtained points, horizontals are drawn corresponding to the position of the line passing through the cervical point, the lines of the chest, waist, hips, hyoid folds, knee, bottom.

From the point Г to the right, the following segments are sequentially laid: ГГ ₁ - back width, Г ₁ Г ₂ - armhole width, Г ₂ Г ₃ - shelf width. Through the point G ₃ draw a vertical line. The intersection points with the previously drawn horizontals are respectively a ₁ , T ₃ , B ₃ , Z ₃ , K ₃ , H ₃ (Fig. 1).

Determine the position of the lower point of the armhole G ₄ . To do this, postpone from the point G _{1 the} value of G ₁ G ₄ = 0,62 G ₁ G ₂ . Through points G ₁ and G ₂ up to the intersection with the horizontal drawn through point A, draw vertical lines defining the armhole line from the side of the shelf and back of the overalls mill. From point G ₄ down draw a vertical line corresponding to the position of the lateral line of the trousers of the overalls.

From point A to the right, the segment AA ₁ defining the width of the neck of the back is laid, then upward the segment A ₁ A ₂ corresponding to the height of the neck of the back. They form the neckline of the back of the smooth curve.

The position of the end of the humeral line of the back is determined. To do this, from point A ₂ draw an arc with a radius equal to the sum of the dimensional sign "width of the shoulder ramp", taking into account the structural increase. From point T, a second arc is drawn with a radius equal to the sum of the dimensional sign “oblique shoulder height”, measured in dynamics when the body is tilted forward by an angle of 90 °, and there is a constructive increase. The intersection point of two arcs is indicated by the point P ₂ .

By the method of radiography, the lower section of the armhole of the back is formed. To do this, from point G ₁ draw an arc of radius G ₁ G ₄ to the intersection with the vertical drawn from point G ₁ . The intersection point is denoted by P ₃ . Then from point P ₃ the same radius to the right draw an arc. The same radius up draw an arc from point G ₄ . An arc is drawn from the intersection point of two arcs from point P ₃ to G ₄ , thereby forming the lower section of the armhole of the back. The upper section of the armhole draw a smooth curve from point P ₂ to point P ₃ .

From the point a _{1, the} segment a ₁ A ₄ corresponding to the width of the neck of the shelf is laid to the left. Then, down from the point a _{1, the} segment a ₁ A _{5 is} laid down, which determines the height of the neck of the shelf. Make out the line of the neck of the shelf smooth curve (figure 1).

The position of the end of the shoulder line of the shelf is determined. To do this, from point A ₄ draw an arc with a radius equal to the sum of the dimensional sign "width of the shoulder ramp", taking into account the structural increase. From point T ₃ , a second arc is drawn with a radius equal to the sum of the dimensional sign “oblique shoulder height”, measured in dynamics when the body is tilted forward by an angle of 90 °, and there is a constructive increase. The intersection point of two arcs is indicated by point P ₄ .

Similarly to the construction of the lower section of the armhole of the back, the lower portion of the armhole of the shelf is formed by the method of radiography. The upper section of the armhole shelves draw a smooth curve from point P ₄ to point P ₅ .

From point T ₄ - the point of intersection of the vertical from point G ₄ and the horizontal from point T to the right and left, _draw segments T ₁ T ₄ = T ₄ T ₂ = 1.5 cm.

Determine the slope of the waistline of the back of the trousers of the overalls - the length of the TT '= 0.1C _b - (2 ÷ 3) cm, where C _b is the dimensional sign of “half hips”. Points T and T ₁ connect a straight line. Then parallel to the line T'T ₁ draw new lines of the hips, hyoid folds, knee and bottom (figure ₁ ).

The width of the front and back parts of the trousers of the overalls is determined - the segments I ₂ I ₃ = T ₃ T ₄ and I ₁ I ₄ = TT ₄ . Then, the segments defining the step width of the front and back parts are set aside, respectively: I ₃ I ₃₁ = 1 / 6C _b + 1.5 cm and I ₄ I '= I ₃ I ₃₁ / 0.48. The bend line of the front and back parts of the trousers is determined: I ₂ I ₃₂ = 1/2 I ₂ I ₃₁ and I'I ₁₁ = 1/2 I ₂ I ₃₁ + 2 cm. Through the points I ₃₂ and I ₁₁ draw vertical lines to the intersection with the line waist and bottom.

Determine the width along the knee line: the front part - the segment K ₂ K ₃ = 1/2 (O _k + P _Ok ) - (1 ÷ 2) cm, where O _k is the dimensional sign of “girth of the knee”, P _Ok is a constructive increase to dimensional sign, and the back - the segment K'K ₁ = 1/2 (O _to + P _OK ) + (1 ÷ 2) cm.

Then determine the width along the bottom line: segments Н ₂ Н ₃ = 1 / 2Ш _н - (1 ÷ 2) cm, where Ш _н - the width of the trousers below, and H'H ₁ = 1 / 2Ш _н - (1 ÷ 2) cm .

Make out a smooth curve of the line:

- a side seam of the front of the overalls through the points T ₂ , B ₂ , Z ₂ , K ₂ , H ₂ and the back through the points T ₁ , B ₁ I ₁ , K ₁ , H ₁ ;

- a step seam of the front part through the points I ₃₁ , K ₃ , H ₃ and the rear part through the points I ', K', H ';

- the middle seam of the front part through the points T ₃ , B ₃ , I ₃₁ and the rear part through the points T ', B', I '.

An example of the practical implementation of the method

On a figure of size 176-100-88, of the 2nd full-size group, models of overalls were made according to the prototype and the claimed method.

We evaluated the models of overalls by the indicators of anthropometric correspondence in statics and dynamics on the test subjects — men, who, according to the main dimensional characteristics (height, chest, and waist), specified basic size and height of a conditionally typical figure.

The results are tabulated.

Additionally, the mobility of the subjects was determined in accordance with GOST 12.4.061 - 88 “System of labor safety standards. The method of determining human performance in personal protective equipment "on a 5-point scale:

5 Mobility is not limited four Full movement with little effort 3 Full movement with moderate effort 2 Limited volume movements with pronounced effort one Movements in a given volume are not possible.

The subjects evaluated the mobility in the layout of the overalls for the prototype of 3 points, in the layout of the overalls for the inventive method of 4 points.

Conclusion: overalls made by the present method are characterized by a smooth surface; lack of vertical, horizontal and inclined folds; the verticality of the middle seam of the back and the edge of the side of the shelf, the side and step seams of the front and rear parts of the overalls. Overalls correspond to the anthropometric characteristics of a person both in statics and in dynamics, in contrast to overalls made according to the prototype.

Bibliographic data

1. M. Muller and son. Cutting technique // Atelier RUNDSCHAU. - 2002. - No. 1 - S.30-39.

2. Belyaev, G.I. Men's Clothing / Needlewoman Series. - Rostov n / a: “Phoenix”, 2001. - 448 p.

3. Reich, H.L. Design of outerwear, 1946, S. 19-20.

Claims (1)

A method of constructing a template for male overalls, including measuring the dimensional characteristics of the figure, choosing the values of constructive gains, constructing a basic grid of horizontal lines of the chest, waist, hips, hyoid fold, knee, bottom and a line passing through the cervical point, and vertical lines that limit the width of the back , armholes, shelves of the camp of the overalls, bending lines of the front and back of the trousers of the overalls, the construction of the back and shelves, one-piece with the back and front of the trousers, respectively, the construction of the lines of the throat guilt, shoulder lines, armhole lines, mid back and shelves, side, step, middle and waist lines, characterized in that they determine the level of the waist line, laying down from the neck point down the value equal to the sum of the dimensional sign “back to waist length” and increase on the dynamics, find the ends of the shoulder lines of the back and the shelves of the overalls camp as the intersection point of two arcs: the first is drawn from the beginning of the shoulder lines with a radius equal to the sum of the dimensional sign “width of the shoulder ramp” and the increase, the second from the points of intersection of the vertical the middle of the back and the shelves with a horizontal waist line with a radius equal to the dimension sign “shoulder height oblique”, measured in dynamics when the body is tilted forward by an angle of 90 °, taking into account the increase, the level of the armhole depth line is determined, laying the value upward from the waist line, equal to the sum of the new dimensional sign “waist length on the side”, measured from the waist line to the back corner of the armpit in the sitting position with the arms raised up and the backs of the palms touching, and the increase, build the lower learning the armhole drain by the method of radiography, determine the level of the line of the subclinical folds, laying down the value equal to the sum of the new dimensional sign “distance from the waistline to the subclinical folds”, measured when the body is tilted forward by 90 °, and the increase determines the level of the knee line, putting aside from the line of the subclinical folds the value equal to the sum of the new dimensional sign “distance from the subclinical folds to the knee line”, measured in a person in a sitting position from the hyoid fold to the knees th point, and the gain is determined level of the bottom line, laying dimensional feature value "knee height" measured in a sitting position on a chair leg in flexion of the knee at an angle of 90 °, with the gain.

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