RU2255636C2 - Method for plotting of strip and back patterns - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: sewing industry, in particular, method of designing patterns for manufacture of sewing articles.

SUBSTANCE: method involves taking figure's anthropometric data; additionally measuring distance from shoulder point to vertical planes tangential to rear and front angles of armpits and from rear to front angles of armpits to horizontal plane extending through shoulder point; plotting basis grid from three vertical lines: average-sagittal line, line passing through neck base point, and line spaced from average-sagittal line by distance making half the full stretch of chest; drawing horizontal lines of basis grid through neck base point, depth of arm-hole on strip and back, waist on strip and back, thighs on strip and back; plotting throat line with common point corresponding to neck base point; calculating angles of inclination of shoulder lines; plotting shoulder lines, arm-hole lines, side lines and lower part lines.

EFFECT: improved quality of patterns for sewing article strips and backs.

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Description

The invention relates to the clothing industry, and in particular to methods for constructing patterns of shelves and backs used for cutting parts of shoulder clothes.

A known method of constructing patterns of shelves and backs of shoulder clothes / 1 /, according to which measure dimensional features of the figure related to overall dimensions and the shoulder girdle (length of the shoulder ramp, anteroposterior diameter of the arm, height of the back angle of the armpit, height of the front corner of the armpit and others ) using standard recommendations and measuring instruments, choose the values of structural additions to dimensional characteristics and lengths of structural segments, calculate the lengths of structural segments and coordination The positions of the points according to well-known formulas, build a basic grid of horizontal and vertical lines with the distances between them, which are calculated according to known formulas using the obtained dimensional signs and the necessary additions to them, build drawings of the back and shelves by sequentially making the neckline, armhole, shoulder , common lateral, half-drift and bottom with the location of the shelves and backs with side lines and armhole lines to each other.

The disadvantage of this method is the low quality of the structures in the region of the shoulder girdle due to the separate and inconsistent measurement of dimensional characteristics characterizing the shoulder girdle of the human figure and the corresponding design parameters, which lead to the appearance of structural errors.

As a prototype, a method for constructing a shelf and back template / 2 / is taken, according to which anthropometric data are measured, including measuring distances from the base point of the neck to the front and rear corners of the axillary hollows on the chest and back for more accurate construction of the supporting surface of the clothes, a base grid is made of horizontal and vertical lines, relative to the horizontal lines of the depth of the armhole, waist, hips, build the lower part of the armhole, the middle line of the back, its shoulder line, the upper part of the armhole of the back, the neckline span of, the shoulder line shelves and the top of the armhole line, whereby the position of the highest points of the backrest and the neck germ shelves are radiusografii method.

The disadvantage of the prototype is the imperfection of the resulting patterns in the shoulder girdle, since the construction of the shelf and back templates is carried out separately relative to the vertical lines of the base grid, which does not allow synchronizing the construction of the neckline, shoulder lines and shoulder points on the shelf and back.

The technical result of the invention is to improve the quality of the resulting patterns of shelves and backs through the use of additional anthropometric data, providing further consistent construction of the patterns of both parts in the shoulder girdle along the vertical lines of the base grid.

This goal is achieved by the fact that in the method of constructing the template of the shelf and back, including the measurement of anthropometric data, the construction of the base grid of vertical and horizontal lines, the construction of drawings of the back and shelf by sequential drawing of the armhole lines, shoulder lines at an angle to the lines of the base grid, neckline , side lines and bottom lines, according to the invention for the back, additionally measure the distance from the shoulder point of the figure to the vertical tangent to the rear corner of the armpit, and from the base angle of the armpit to the horizontal passing through the shoulder point, for the shelf additionally measure the distance from the shoulder point of the figure to the vertical tangent to the front corner of the armpit, and from the front corner of the armpit to the horizontal passing through the shoulder point, build a base grid of three vertical lines: mid-sagittal line, a line passing through the base point of the neck, and a line spaced from the mid-sagittal line at a distance equal to half the half-circumference of the chest of the third, and horizontal of the lines passing through the base of the neck, the depth of the armhole on the flange and back, the waist on the flange and back, the hips on the flange and back and the bottom of the flange and back, the throat lines of the back and flange with a common point corresponding to the base of the neck are built.

The proposed method can be implemented in any industrial CAD clothing. Its advantages are new anthropometric data, with the help of which it is possible to accurately describe the spatial position of the points of the figure, on which the equilibrium position of the clothes on the supporting surface of the upper shoulder girdle depends. The use of new anthropometric data allows accurate construction of the shoulder lines, guarantees a balanced position of clothes on the figure.

The essence of the invention is illustrated by drawings, which show:

figure 1 - diagram of the measurement of the dimensional sign "the angle of the shoulder slope of the figure",

figure 2 is a diagram of the measurement of dimensional signs “Position of the rear corner of the armpit”, “Position of the front corner of the armpit”, “Height of the back corner of the armpit” and “Height of the front corner of the armpit”.

figure 3 is a drawing of the design of the back and shelves in the proposed base grid.

The method is as follows.

Anthropometric data is removed from the figure according to the current measurement standards according to OST 17-325-74. OST 17-326-74, GOST 17916-72, GOST 17917-72 or other documents.

Measure the angle of inclination of the shoulder slope ε of the figure (figure 1).

Measure the position of the posterior angle of the armpit B, equal to the distance measured horizontally from the shoulder point of the figure to the vertical tangent to the posterior corner of the armpit (FIG. 2).

Measure the height of the posterior angle of the armpit D (Fig.2).

Measure the position of the front angle of the armpit A, equal to the distance measured horizontally from the shoulder point of the figure to the vertical tangent to the front corner of the armpit (figure 2).

Measure the height of the rake angle of the armpit C (FIG. 2).

Build a basic grid of vertical and horizontal lines (figure 2). Three vertical lines are drawn: the first - mid-sagittal, the second - passing through the base of the neck, the third - spaced from the mid-sagittal at a distance of half the size sign "Half chest circumference". 9 horizontal lines are drawn: the first - through the point of the base of the neck, the second and third - the depth of the armhole on the shelf and back, the fourth and fifth - the waist on the shelf and back, the sixth and seventh - the hips on the shelf and back, the eighth and ninth - the bottom of the shelf and backs.

Draw the lines of the neck of the shelf and back with a common point corresponding to the point of the base of the neck.

The angle of the shoulder line of the back is calculated by the expression

where βc is the angle of inclination of the shoulder line of the back, deg.,

ε is the angle of inclination of the shoulder slope of the figure, deg.,

In - the position of the posterior angle of the axillary cavity, equal to the distance from the shoulder point of the figure to the vertical tangent to the posterior corner of the axilla, cm,

D is the height of the posterior angle of the axillary cavity to the horizontal drawn through the shoulder point, cm,

in, in ₁ , in ₂ - coefficients characterizing the features of posture and turn of the shoulders of the figure.

The shoulder line of the back is drawn at the calculated angle. The angle of the shoulder line of the shelf is calculated by the formula

where βп - the angle of inclination of the shoulder line of the shelf, deg.,

ε is the angle of inclination of the shoulder slope of the figure, deg.,

And - the position of the front angle of the axillary cavity, equal to the distance from the shoulder point of the figure to the vertical tangent to the front corner of the axilla, cm,

C is the height of the front angle of the axillary cavity to the horizontal drawn through the shoulder point, cm,

a, a ₁ , a ₂ are the coefficients characterizing the features of posture and the turn of the shoulders of the figure.

The shoulder lines of the back and the shelves are drawn at calculated angles from a common point corresponding to the point of the base of the neck.

The position of the shoulder points on the back and the shelf is determined by one of the known methods, for example, radiography. An arc of a circle is drawn from a common point of the neck with a radius equal to the length of the shoulder slope to the intersection with the shoulder lines.

The lines of the armholes of the back and the shelves are built taking into account the values of constructive additions to the dimensional signs “Chest girth third”, “Width of the back”, “Width of the chest” and “Diameter of the anteroposterior arm”.

The lateral lines of the back and the shelves are built taking into account the values of constructive increments to the dimensional signs “Waist circumference” and “Thigh circumference”.

Build the bottom lines of the back and shelves taking into account the length of the designed product.

If necessary, construct tucks and other structural lines.

Sources of information

1. Unified methodology for designing clothes CMEA (EMCO CMEA). Theoretical basis. Volume 1. M.: TSNIITEIlegprom, 1988.

2. Decision dated May 30, 2002 on the grant of a patent for an invention “Method for constructing a shelf and back template” according to application No. 2001119778/12 (020887) dated July 16, 2001.

Claims (1)

A method of constructing a shelf and back template, consisting in measuring anthropometric data, building a baseline mesh of vertical and horizontal lines, drawing drawings of a back and shelf by sequentially drawing armhole lines, shoulder lines at a certain angle to the baseline mesh lines, neck lines, side lines and lines bottom, characterized in that for the back additionally measure the distance from the shoulder point of the figure to the vertical tangent to the rear corner of the armpit, and from the back corner of the axillary hollows to the horizontal passing through the shoulder point, for the shelf additionally measure the distance from the shoulder point of the figure to the vertical tangent to the front corner of the armpit, and from the front corner of the armpit to the horizontal passing through the shoulder point, build a base grid of three vertical lines: the mid-sagittal line, the line passing through the base point of the neck, and the line spaced from the mid-sagittal line at a distance equal to half the half-circumference of the chest of the third, and the horizontal lines passing h Res point neck base armhole depth on the shelf and the back, waist and back on the shelf, the shelf on the thighs and the back and bottom shelves and back build back neck line shelves and the common point corresponding to the point base of the neck.

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