RU2318417C2 - Method for producing developed views of tight-fitting article - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: sewing industry.

SUBSTANCE: method involves marking basic points on figure or mannequin surface; taking their coordinates; plotting linear carcass on the basis of said coordinates, said linear carcass including horizontal sections at basic anthropometric levels; plotting front and profile projection of mannequin or figure; transferring coordinates of basic points and their increments on planar surface; applying longitudinal articulation lines on front and profile projection, said articulation lines defining shape of article parts; determining points of intersection of longitudinal lines with horizontal planes drawn through basic anthropometric points and transferring intersection points onto horizontal sections of figure or mannequin; plotting development view of article parts on plane relative to development line defined for each individual part by staged plotting from development lines of distances corresponding to length of arcs of horizontal sections measured from point of intersection of development line of part to points corresponding to longitudinal articulation lines.

EFFECT: more complete correspondence of arrangement and shape of construction articulation lines to draft of selected model, increased precision in plotting of development view of individual article parts, reduced labor intensity and simplified plotting process.

8 dwg

Description

The invention relates to the field of sewing production and can be used in the design of corset products and other tight-fitting garments for both standard figures and figures with deviations from a typical physique.

A known method of obtaining a scan of the surface of a mannequin, which consists in the fact that according to two projections (horizontal and profile) using the theorem "On the direct general position" is a scan of the surface of the mannequin of one belt between two horizontal sections / 1 /. For each section of the mannequin enclosed between two horizontal sections, a rectangular triangle is constructed, one leg of which is the distance between the horizontal sections, the second leg is the magnitude of the horizontal projections of the desired segments, the hypotenuse is the natural values of the sought quantities.

The dummy scan is obtained by geometric construction of a series of quadrangles, the sides of which are the above-defined values of legs and hypotenuses of right-angled triangles. Then, the scan of the second belt, etc. is attached to the obtained contour of the sweep of the first horizontal (or vertical) belt, etc.

The disadvantage of this method is the phased construction of the details of the sweep and the time-consuming geometric finding of the true value of the edges and diagonals of the polyhedra of the sweep based on the theorem "On the direct general position".

Due to the incomplete use of figure measurements, accurate sweeps are not always obtained. In this case, defects in the fit of the product on the mannequin arise, which requires additional adjustment of the design drawing.

The closest technical solution is the method of obtaining a scan of the surface of the mannequin / 2 /, consisting in the fact that on the surface of the mannequin outline the location lines of the sagittal and frontal planes, the main horizontal structural levels, and also outline the lines of two radial sections relative to the vertical axis of the mannequin, one of which are passed through one of the highest points of the mammary glands, and the other through the top of the posterior corner of the armpit, located on the opposite side, respectively the existing point of the protruding mammary glands, after which the coordinates of the base points located at the intersection of vertical and horizontal lines are determined, and the coordinates of the base points and their increments are transferred to the plane.

The disadvantages of the method are the difficulty of determining the axis of the center of mass of the dummy, the difficulty of constructing traces of radial sections on the figure or dummy when using measuring instruments that are not based on the polar coordinate system, and also the high complexity of the construction process due to the need to calculate the increment of coordinates for each of the base points when transferring it to a plane.

A common disadvantage of the described methods is the lack of the ability to preliminarily, prior to constructing a scan, see the shape of the product dividing lines, the location of these lines on the figure, and check their compliance with the selected model.

The technical result of the invention is the ability to more fully match the location and shape of the design lines of dividing the sketch of the selected model, increasing the accuracy of building a scan of individual parts of the product, reducing the complexity and simplifying the construction process.

The specified technical result is achieved by the fact that in the method consisting in the fact that base points are drawn on the surface of the figure or dummy, their coordinates are taken, along which they build a linear frame, including horizontal sections at the main anthropometric levels, build a profile projection of the dummy or figure, carry out the transfer to the plane of the coordinates of the base points and their increments, according to the invention, an additional frontal projection of a mannequin or figure is constructed, longitudinal and longitudinal projections are applied to the frontal and profile projections dividing lines that determine the shape of the parts of the product find the intersection points of these longitudinal lines with horizontal planes drawn through the main anthropometric points and transfer the intersection points to the horizontal sections of the figure or dummy; parts, by phasing from the deployment lines the distances corresponding to the lengths of arcs of horizontal sections, measured from Points of intersection of the line of deployment of this part to the points corresponding to the longitudinal division lines.

This method can be used in the design of products with an asymmetric cut or for constructing reamers of products developed into figures with asymmetric posture. In this case, the frontal and profile projections of the mannequin or figure are built separately for the right and left sides. Product division lines are also designed individually for both sides of the figure.

The essence of the invention is illustrated by drawings, on which are shown: figure 1 - installation for measuring the coordinates of points on the surface of the mannequin: a) frontal projection, b) horizontal projection; Fig 2 - a set of linear frames describing the surface shape of the mannequin: a) horizontal sections of the mannequin, b) frontal projection of the mannequin, c) profile projection of the mannequin; figure 3 - the location of the lines of division of grace at the front: a) horizontal projection, b) frontal projection, c) profile projection; figure 4 - the location of the lines of division of grace on the back: a) horizontal projection, b) frontal projection, c) profile projection; 5 is a drawing of a scan of the construction of the grace: a) a scan of the details of the mill of grace, b) a scan of the details of the cup of grace; 6 is a photo of the product manufactured by the received scan: a) front view, b) rear view.

An example of the method

The construction is performed for a typical figure 164-88-96, designed for the construction of corsetry. Previously, the markings of the levels at which horizontal sections will be taken were made on the figure, and the base points necessary for constructing the contours of horizontal sections were also outlined.

Then, three-dimensional coordinates of the base points were determined on a special installation, shown in Fig. 1, and the heights of the levels of the sections were measured.

The installation, designed to measure the coordinates of the points of horizontal sections (figure 1), consists of a cylindrical metal mesh 1, which is movably mounted on the supporting posts 2 and can move in the vertical direction. A mannequin or figure is set in the center of the grid. The position of the figure is fixed in the sternum by special rods 3. The coordinates of the points on the surface of the mannequin or figure are determined by a special measuring device 4. The device is designed to determine the polar coordinates of the points. The resulting coordinates can be used in their original form, and, if necessary, can be converted into a Cartesian coordinate system.

The next step was the construction of linear frameworks of the figure (figure 2). The first linear frame (figure 2, a) is nine horizontal sections of the figure and one inclined, drawn along the base of the neck. Cross sections take place at the following levels (Fig.2, b, c):

I-I - thigh circumference;

II-II - the most prominent point of the abdomen;

III-III - waist circumference;

IV-IV - chest circumference of the fourth;

V-V - protruding points of the mammary glands;

VI-VI - the posterior angle of the armpits;

VII-VII - the protruding points of the shoulder blades in the back and the line of the upper base of the mammary glands in front;

VIII-VIII - shoulder points;

IX-IX - the base line of the neck.

The frontal projection of the figure (figure 2, b) is built on the basis of horizontal sections of the figure and the heights of the levels of these sections. The frontal projection is built for the front and back. On the frontal projection of the back, in addition to the external contours, the line of the spine is drawn from the point of the seventh cervical vertebra to the line of the hips and the point of protrusion of the shoulder blades A, and on the frontal projection of the front, the middle of the front from the jugular depression to the line of the hips and the most prominent points of the mammary glands B. A distinctive feature It is that when designing products on an individual figure or products with an asymmetric cut, the frontal projection can be built for both the right and left sides of the figure.

Profile projection (figure 2, c) consists of three contours, superimposed on one another, which are also built on the basis of horizontal sections and the heights of the levels of these sections. Contour 5 is the sagittal section of the figure, and contours 6 and 7 are the projections of the figure to the left and right. For a typical figure, these contours coincide. On the profile projection, the shoulder point C and the points of the posterior D and front E of the axillary angles are outlined.

After constructing the linear frameworks of the figure, the design of the dividing lines of the future product is carried out (FIGS. 3 and 4). In the example, the design of a corset consisting of three front (one central and two side), three rear (one central and two side) parts and two barrel parts is considered. The corset cup is set-in, oval, consists of two parts. The division of the deployable surface into individual parts is carried out on the front and profile frames. The longitudinal lines of division, which determine the shape of the parts of the front, must pass through the most protruding points of the mammary glands B (line 8 in figure 3). And the longitudinal division lines that determine the shape of the backrest parts for the shoulder product must pass through the most protruding points of the blades A (lines 9 in figure 4). For corsetry, this condition is optional. In shape, the longitudinal lines of articulation can be straight or with a slight bend. These lines are applied to the frontal projection of the front (figure 3, b) and back (figure 4, b), respectively. The lines that determine the shape of the detail of the barrel of the corset mill are applied to the profile projection of the figure (lines 10, 11 in FIG. 3, c). They pass through the points of the posterior D and front E angles of the armpit.

After constructing the longitudinal lines of division, we proceed to the design of the corset cup. The base line of the corset cup is drawn on the frontal projection of the front as an arc passing through the point of the lateral base of the breast G, the point of the lower base of the breast G and the medial point H (line 12 in Fig. 3, b). The upper contour of the cup 13 is limited to the line of the upper base of the mammary gland VII-VII.

After all the lines are plotted, the points of intersection of the longitudinal lines of division with the horizontal planes drawn through the main anthropometric points are determined, the points of intersection are transferred to the horizontal sections of the figure, determining the sections of the sections belonging to one or another part (Fig. 3, a, 4, but).

An individual deployment line is found for each of the parts. This is the line on the expandable surface of the mannequin, defined by the trace of a vertical plane perpendicular to the tangent drawn to a horizontal section at the waist line at a point that is the middle of the section belonging to a particular part. For the central parts of the front and back, such a line will be the trace of the sagittal plane XX and X'-X '(Fig. 3, a, 4, a), and for the side parts of the front and back and for the detail of the corset barrel, these lines will be traces of the planes XI-XI, XII-XII and XIII-XIII, respectively (Fig. 3, a, 4, a). Then find the intersection points of all the above deployment lines with each of the horizontal sections and measure the distance from the original deployment line, which coincides with the sagittal section line on the back of X'-X ', to each of the lines along a horizontal section arc at the level of the thigh circumference.

When constructing a sweep, a basic grid is built (Fig. 5), where the hips line I-I serves as the initial horizontal line and the original X'-X 'deployment line is the vertical line; in addition, the levels of all horizontal sections are laid up from the hips line. The level of each of the horizontal sections is determined taking into account the vertical increments of coordinates, which take into account the displacement of the external contours of adjacent horizontal sections relative to each other at the level of the spinal column. To find the values of the vertical increments of coordinates, use the following formula:

,

,

where B _{i + 1} , B _i - the heights of the levels of two adjacent horizontal sections of the frame of the figure;

To - the distance between the same points of neighboring horizontal sections that determine the position of the spinal column.

A scan of each of the parts of the mill is obtained by measuring the lengths of the arcs of horizontal sections in the areas corresponding to this part, and then postponing these values in the base grid from the vertical deployment line at the level of this section.

A scan of the details of the corset cup (Fig. 5, b) is obtained according to the Unified methodology for the design of women's clothing developed by the Central Research Institute of the Garment Industry / 3 /, using the values of the horizontal and vertical diameters of the breast measured on the horizontal and profile frames of the figure.

A photo of the product manufactured but the received scan is presented in Fig.6. The product corresponds to the original design, sketch and technical drawing obtained on the projections of the figure, the fit of the product is good.

List of sources used

1. Antipova A.I., Boytsova A.M., Rogatyuk T.M. Design of corsetry based on the development of mannequins. M. - “Light Industry”, 1976, 109 pp.

2. A.S. 925302 USSR. A method of obtaining a surface scan of a mannequin / A.M. Boytsova, V.E. Romanov, I.A.Sysoeva, V.I. Novikova. - Publ. 05/07/82. Bull. Number 17.

3. Unified methodology for designing clothes. Women's Clothing, Central Scientific Research Institute of Electronics and Industry, Moscow, 1967.

Claims (1)

A method of obtaining a scan of a tight-fitting product, consisting in the fact that base points are drawn on the surface of a figure or dummy, their coordinates are taken, along which a linear frame is built, including horizontal sections at the main anthropometric levels, a profile projection of the dummy or figure is built, transfer to the coordinate plane base points and their increments, characterized in that they additionally build a frontal projection of a mannequin or figure, longitudinal lines of the line are applied to the frontal and profile projections The variations that determine the shape of the parts of the product find the intersection points of these longitudinal lines with horizontal planes drawn through the main anthropometric points, and transfer the intersection points to the horizontal sections of the figure or dummy, the development of the scan of the parts of the product on the plane is carried out relative to the deployment line defined separately for each of parts, by phasing from the deployment lines the distances corresponding to the lengths of arcs of horizontal sections, measured from the point ne esecheniya line deployment for this part to the points corresponding to the longitudinal division lines.

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