CN109349693B - Method for cutting out clothes by using seven-line three-mode - Google Patents

Method for cutting out clothes by using seven-line three-mode Download PDF

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CN109349693B
CN109349693B CN201811378850.XA CN201811378850A CN109349693B CN 109349693 B CN109349693 B CN 109349693B CN 201811378850 A CN201811378850 A CN 201811378850A CN 109349693 B CN109349693 B CN 109349693B
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shoulder
waist
chest
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CN109349693A (en
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刘霞
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Bufunn Beijing Cultural Development Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00Other methods, machines or appliances

Abstract

The application discloses a method for cutting out a garment by utilizing a seven-line three-mode, and relates to the field of garments. The cutting method comprises the following steps: step 100, measuring a body; step 200, spreading cloth; step 300, drawing and making a plate, wherein the whole garment can be evenly divided into four equal parts according to the front-back symmetry and the left-right symmetry of a human body, one part of the whole garment is made by drawing and making a plate, and other three parts are copied, wherein each part of the plate is made to comprise a flush line, a folding line, a garment length line, a shoulder line, a chest line, a waist line and a hip line, and further comprises shoulder points corresponding to the shoulder line, chest points corresponding to the chest line, waist points corresponding to the waist line and/or hip points corresponding to the hip line; step 400 cuts the garment according to the plate making. The method and the device only use seven lines and four key points to finish the printing and manufacturing of the whole clothes, solve the problem that a hospital needs dozens of lines, enable the printing to be simple and easy to learn, improve the printing efficiency, and more completely modify the complete human body segmentation points.

Description

Method for cutting out clothes by using seven-line three-mode
Technical Field
The application relates to the field of clothing, in particular to a method for cutting out clothing by utilizing a seven-line three-mode.
Background
The existing clothes cutting method has the problem of complicated plate making, so that the work period for manufacturing clothes is long, and the process and the plate making are complicated. For example, in the science of clothing cutting, a sleeve chart is often drawn and printed by using 40 lines, which is very complicated and difficult to learn.
Therefore, it is highly desirable to invent a simple and easy-to-learn garment cutting method.
Disclosure of Invention
It is an object of the present application to overcome the above problems or to at least partially solve or mitigate the above problems.
According to one aspect of the application, a method for cutting a garment using a seven-thread three-way cut is provided, operating according to the following steps:
step 100, measuring the body, recording the girth sizes of shoulders, breasts, waists and hips, and the sizes of waist sections, clothes lengths and collar girths, wherein the sizes are measured in inches;
step 200, spreading cloth, folding the cloth edge of a factory, cutting the back piece, and then cutting the front piece;
step 300, drawing and making a plate, wherein the whole garment can be evenly divided into four equal parts according to the front-back symmetry and the left-right symmetry of a human body, one part of the whole garment is made by drawing and making a plate, and other three parts are copied, wherein each part of the plate is made to comprise a flush line, a folding line, a garment length line, a shoulder line, a chest line, a waist line and a hip line, and further comprises shoulder points corresponding to the shoulder line, chest points corresponding to the chest line, waist points corresponding to the waist line and/or hip points corresponding to the hip line;
step 400, tailoring the garment according to the plate making.
Optionally, the garment is a dress, and step 300 comprises:
making a back piece layout on the back piece, which comprises drawing a cloth edge line according to the transverse and longitudinal yarn directions of the cloth, taking the longitudinal yarn direction as the left and right, taking the left as the lower part and taking the right as the upper part,
step 301, a flush line perpendicular to the cloth line is made on the left side,
step 302, making parallel lines corresponding to the cloth edge lines and the flush edge lines inwards one inch respectively on the basis of the cloth edge lines and the flush edge lines, making back lines and folded edge lines,
step 303, measuring a clothes length to the right based on the folding line, making a clothes length line parallel to the folding line,
step 304, making a shoulder line parallel to the clothes length line in the direction of the lower hem based on the clothes length line,
step 305, making a chest line parallel to the shoulder line in the downward swinging direction based on the shoulder line,
step 306, measuring the length of a waist section in the direction of the lap based on the clothing length line to form a waist line parallel to the clothing length line,
step 307, making a hip line parallel to the waist line in a downward swinging direction based on the waist line,
step 308, according to the girth sizes of the shoulders, the chest, the waist and the hips, corresponding shoulder points, chest points, waist points and hip points are found out on corresponding shoulder-falling lines, chest girth lines, waist girth lines and hip girth lines from the back line, all the girth points are marked, the chest points and the waist points are connected by a bent ruler professional typesetting ruler,
step 309, making armhole lines according to the shoulder points, the chest points, the shoulder falling lines and the chest circumference lines,
step 310, according to the shoulder point, the clothes length line and the back line, making a collar line,
repeating the steps 301 to 310, and drawing and making a plate to make the rest three layouts of the whole clothes, so that the plate making of the whole clothes is finished;
and step 400, cutting the back piece along the edge aligning line, the cloth edge line, the back neckline and the back armhole line, cutting the front piece on the remaining pieces of cloth along the cutting line of the front piece on the back, and finishing the cutting of the whole one-piece dress.
Optionally, step 304 is to make a shoulder line parallel to the clothing length line in a 1.5 inch downswing direction based on the clothing length line.
Optionally, step 305 is to make a bust line parallel to the shoulder line at a bust distance of two tenths of a lap based on the shoulder line,
optionally, step 306 is to measure a waist length of a waist section in the hem direction based on the garment length line to make a waist line parallel to the garment length line.
Optionally, in step 307, a hip line parallel to the waist line is made by a distance of seven inches in the hem direction based on the waist line.
Optionally, step 308 is to find out corresponding shoulder points, chest points, waist points and hip points on the corresponding shoulder line, chest line, waist line and hip line according to the girth sizes of the shoulders, chest, waist and hips,
shoulder: one half of the shoulder and 0.3 of the seam,
chest: one fourth of the bra size +0.3, wherein the bra size is net size +1 inch relaxation amount, all measurements are net size,
waist circumference: one fourth of the waist circumference of the wool, 0.3 sewing parts and 0.6 province amount,
hip circumference: one fourth of the hip circumference of the hair and 0.3 of the seam.
Optionally, step 309 comprises: the method comprises the following steps of finding 1 inch from a shoulder point to a cloth edge to serve as an armhole, making a perpendicular line from a point of 1 inch to a chest line, finding a point of one third from the chest line, making a point of a right angle formed by the chest line and the perpendicular line to serve as an angle bisector, finding a point of 0.7 inch from the right angle point on the angle bisector, making an arc from the point of 0.7 inch and the point of one third, making a straight line from the point of one third to cross the shoulder point to serve as a line of an anterior armhole, and making a distance of 0.5 inch on the basis of the anterior armhole to complete the same line armhole of a posterior armhole.
Alternatively, step 310 begins with the back line and the garment length line as the neck width and neck depth,
the formula of the collar width: about two tenths of the neck, 0.4 cun,
front neck depth formula: two tenths of the collar circumference +0.3,
the rectangular auxiliary line is used as a front collar, the long line of the clothes is laid down 0.7 inch to form a rear collar, and the rear collar is connected with a collar wide point and a shoulder point.
Optionally, the garment further comprises four types of half-skirt, shirt, trousers and western-style clothes.
The method for cutting out the clothes by utilizing the seven-line three-mode can finish the printing and manufacturing of the whole clothes only by using seven lines, namely the edge aligning line, the edge folding line, the clothes length line, the shoulder falling line, the chest surrounding line, the waist surrounding line and the hip surrounding line, and four key points, namely the shoulder point, the chest point, the waist point and the hip point, and solves the problem that a hospital needs dozens of lines, so that the printing and manufacturing become simple and easy to learn, people with zero basis can learn, the efficiency of the printing and the complete division of human body can be improved.
The above and other objects, advantages and features of the present application will become more apparent to those skilled in the art from the following detailed description of specific embodiments thereof, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.
Drawings
Some specific embodiments of the present application will be described in detail hereinafter by way of illustration and not limitation with reference to the accompanying drawings. The same reference numbers in the drawings identify the same or similar elements or components. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that the drawings are not necessarily drawn to scale. In the drawings:
FIG. 1 is a schematic manufacturing process diagram of a dress form utilizing the method of seven-line three-style cut garment of one embodiment of the present application;
FIG. 2 is a schematic process diagram of a pant graph made using the method of the present application utilizing a seven-thread three-style cut garment.
Detailed Description
The method for cutting out the clothes by utilizing the seven-line three-way mode is to customize experiences for many years and to summarize the yellow whole positions of the human body where the shoulders, the chest, the waist and the hips of the human body are located by combining the diversified comprehensive concept of modern clothes design, thereby creating perfect figure proportion. In the method for cutting out the clothes by using the seven-line three-way mode, the idea of prototype conversion is carried out from five types of basic pattern making drawings of half-dress, one-piece dress, shirt, trousers and western-style clothes. All styles can be learned to make the plate within seven days, the cutting is very simple, and the sewing is a skilled worker.
FIG. 1 is a schematic process diagram of a dress layout making using the method of the present application utilizing a seven-line three-style cut garment. Referring to fig. 1, a method for cutting a garment using a seven-thread three-way cut, generally operates as follows:
step 100, measuring the body, recording the girth sizes of shoulders, breasts, waists and hips, and the sizes of waist sections, clothes lengths and collar girths, wherein the sizes are measured in inches;
step 200, spreading cloth, folding the cloth edge of a factory, cutting the back piece, and then cutting the front piece;
step 300, drawing and making a plate, wherein the whole garment can be evenly divided into four equal parts according to the front-back symmetry and the left-right symmetry of a human body, one part of the whole garment is made by drawing and making a plate, and other three parts are copied, wherein each part of the plate is made to comprise a flush line, a folding line, a garment length line, a shoulder line, a chest line, a waist line and a hip line, and further comprises shoulder points corresponding to the shoulder line, chest points corresponding to the chest line, waist points corresponding to the waist line and/or hip points corresponding to the hip line;
step 400, tailoring the garment according to the plate making.
The method for cutting out the clothes by utilizing the seven-line three-mode can finish the printing and manufacturing of the whole clothes only by using seven lines, namely the edge aligning line, the edge folding line, the clothes length line, the shoulder falling line, the chest surrounding line, the waist surrounding line and the hip surrounding line, and four key points, namely the shoulder point, the chest point, the waist point and the hip point, and solves the problem that a hospital needs dozens of lines, so that the printing and manufacturing become simple and easy to learn, people with zero basis can learn, the efficiency of the printing and the complete division of human body can be improved.
By using the method for cutting out the clothes by utilizing the seven-line three-way mode, one person can finish the whole cutting out and manufacturing quickly.
The method for cutting out the clothes by utilizing the seven-line three-way mode is applied to the plate making of a factory with dozens of lines, has high flexibility when being used, can be adjusted by using one basic plate according to different human bodies, can achieve the full yellow proportion of each person, and can completely solve the problems of long construction period, complicated process and plate making of the clothes making. Compared with the process of computer plate-making professional software operation and multi-type manufacturing, the method is simple and effective, and the whole process of enlarging the plate of the garment is completed deeply and shallowly.
As shown in fig. 1, a method for cutting a garment with a seven-line three-style dress is described by taking a dress as an example, which is performed according to the following steps:
step 100, measuring body, recording the girth sizes of shoulders, breasts, waists and hips, the waist length, the clothing length and the collar girth in units of cun,
for example, in the case of a dress, a person is shown in table 1.
TABLE 1
Figure BDA0001871420030000051
And step 200, spreading cloth, folding the cloth edge of the factory, opening the back, and cutting the back piece. The whole clothes can be equally divided into four equal parts according to the symmetry of human body. One of the parts is made by drawing and plate making, and the other three parts are copied, so that the whole clothes can be cut.
And step 300, drawing and making a plate, wherein the inch is taken as a unit in the whole cutting and drawing method. The cloth is characterized in that the transverse and longitudinal (warp and weft) yarn directions of the cloth are left and right in the longitudinal yarn direction. Drawing is to draw a cloth edge line with the left as the lower part and the right as the upper part (the left is the lower hem edge and the right is the head direction).
And 301, making a flush line on the left side perpendicular to the selvedge line. And defining the flush line as the first line according to the drawing sequence.
And step 302, respectively drawing a back line and a folding line inwards by 1 inch by a cloth edge line and a trimming line. According to the drawing sequence: defining the broken line as the second line.
Step 303, according to the direction from head to foot of the human body, firstly determining to make a clothes length line from the edge folding line, namely, from the edge folding line to the right, namely, the direction of the head, and measuring a clothes length. According to the drawing sequence: the clothes length line is the third line.
And 304, making a shoulder line from the third line to the 1.5 inch downward direction of the hem, and defining the shoulder line as the fourth line.
Step 305, the fourth line is laid down along the shoulder line and then the chest line is made, and the chest line distance is two tenths of the chest circumference of the formula. Define the bust line as the fifth line.
At step 306, the length of a waist section is measured from the shoulder intersection, i.e., the garment length line, downward to identify the waist line. Define the waist line as the sixth line.
Step 307, from the waist line of the sixth line, downward, the hip line is the 7 th line, the distance is 7 inches, and the 7 inches is the golden ratio (summarized by years of experience), namely the hip line of 7 inches under the waist. It should be noted that the distance between the waist and the hip is generally in the golden ratio of 7 cun. The special body needs to be measured, the waist line and the hip line are improved, and the perfect proportion of different statures is molded.
Step 308, according to the girth sizes of the shoulders, the chest, the waist and the hips, respectively, by using the structure and the deconstruction of the human body, corresponding shoulder points A, chest points B, waist points C and hip points D are found out on the corresponding shoulder line, chest line, waist line and hip line to make a quarter diagram,
shoulder: one-half shoulder +0.3 (seam allowance)
Chest: one fourth of the bust size +0.3 (bust size +1 inch relaxation), all measurements are net size,
waist circumference: one fourth of the waistline +0.3 (seam share) +0.6 (province amount),
hip circumference: one fourth of the hip circumference of the hair and 0.3 (sewing),
the girth points of a shoulder point A, a chest point B, a waist point C and a hip point D are marked on the shoulder line, the chest line, the waist line and the hip line from the back line, and the chest point B and the waist point C are connected by a bent ruler (arc ruler) professional layout ruler.
Step 309, finding 1 inch from the shoulder point A to the cloth edge as an armhole, making a perpendicular line from the point E of 1 inch to the chest circumference line, finding a point F of one third from the chest circumference line, making a point of a right angle formed by the chest circumference line and the perpendicular line as an angular bisector, finding a point G of 0.7 inch from the right angle point on the angular bisector, making an arc from the point G of 0.7 inch and the point F of one third, making a straight line from the point F of one third to cross the shoulder point A as a line of the front armhole, making a distance H of 0.5 inch on the basis of the front armhole, and making the same line of the rear armhole.
And step 310, finally, making a neckline, and respectively using the back line and the clothes length line as the collar width and the collar depth.
The formula of the collar width: about two tenths of the neck, 0.4 cun,
front neck depth formula: two tenths of the collar circumference +0.3,
an arc is made in the rectangular auxiliary line to serve as a front collar, the back collar is made in a way that the long line of the clothes is 0.7 inch in the downward swinging direction to serve as a back collar, and a collar wide point J and a shoulder point A are connected.
And repeating the steps 301 to 310, and drawing and making a plate to make the layout of the rest three parts of the whole clothes, so that the plate making of the whole clothes is completed.
And step 400, cutting the back piece along the edge aligning line, the cloth edge line, the back neckline and the back armhole line, cutting the front piece on the remaining pieces of cloth along the cutting line of the front piece on the back, and finishing the cutting of the whole one-piece dress.
The above is the plate making of the golden ratio realized by taking the dress of the dress and the skirt as an example. Regardless of male and female, the garment related to shoulder, chest, waist and hip, even the upper half body and the lower half body can be decomposed and molded according to the scheme. For example, half skirts: the line between the waist line and the hip line, which is the golden 7 cun line, may represent part of the golden section. The lining type, the suit type and the trousers can be embodied in different modes.
Shirts and suits are similar in the proportion of shoulders, breasts and waists to the shoulders, breasts and waists of the dress and dress.
FIG. 2 is a schematic process diagram of a pant graph made using the method of the present application utilizing a seven-thread three-style cut garment. Trousers: below the waistline, the crotch line is got to 4 th net buttockss or 4 th hair buttockss, and the waist needs to measure everybody's size to the knee, confirms 5 lines, formula, and the measurement is different from half-dress, one-piece dress class, but the trousers classification makes a plate the spirit point, also is out of the moulding of 7 lines.
For example, taking trousers as an example, a certain person's body record is shown in table 2.
TABLE 2
Name (R) Measuring body (inch) Method for measuring body
Trousers length 28 From the waist point, through the knee, and down to the surface of the foot
Waist circumference 21 Mean waist position for one circle
Hip circumference
27 The hip point position is leveled for a circle
Knee circumference 10 One circle of the highest position of knee
Waist and knee 17 From waist point to knee peak pointIs a distance of
The loosening amount of the trousers for women is 2-3 inches, and the loosening amount of the trousers for men is 3-4 inches. The embodiment shown in fig. 2 is exemplified by lady pants, with a 2-inch slack.
It is to be noted that, unless otherwise specified, technical or scientific terms used herein shall have the ordinary meaning as understood by those skilled in the art to which this application belongs.
In the description of the present application, it is to be understood that the terms "central," "longitudinal," "lateral," "length," "width," "thickness," "upper," "lower," "front," "rear," "left," "right," "vertical," "horizontal," "top," "bottom," "inner," "outer," "clockwise," "counterclockwise," "axial," "radial," "circumferential," and the like are used in the orientations and positional relationships indicated in the drawings for convenience in describing the present application and to simplify the description, and are not intended to indicate or imply that the referenced devices or elements must have a particular orientation, be constructed and operated in a particular orientation, and are therefore not to be considered limiting of the present application.
Furthermore, the terms "first", "second", etc. are used for descriptive purposes only and are not to be construed as indicating or implying relative importance or implicitly indicating the number of technical features indicated. In the description of the present application, "a plurality" means two or more unless specifically defined otherwise.
In this application, unless expressly stated or limited otherwise, the terms "mounted," "connected," "secured," and the like are to be construed broadly and can include, for example, fixed connections, removable connections, or integral parts; can be mechanically or electrically connected; either directly or indirectly through intervening media, either internally or in any other relationship. The specific meaning of the above terms in the present application can be understood by those of ordinary skill in the art as appropriate.
In this application, unless expressly stated or limited otherwise, the first feature "on" or "under" the second feature may be directly contacting the first and second features or indirectly contacting the first and second features through intervening media. Also, a first feature "on," "over," and "above" a second feature may be directly or diagonally above the second feature, or may simply indicate that the first feature is at a higher level than the second feature. A first feature being "under," "below," and "beneath" a second feature may be directly under or obliquely under the first feature, or may simply mean that the first feature is at a lesser elevation than the second feature.
The above description is only for the preferred embodiment of the present application, but the scope of the present application is not limited thereto, and any changes or substitutions that can be easily conceived by those skilled in the art within the technical scope of the present application should be covered within the scope of the present application. Therefore, the protection scope of the present application shall be subject to the protection scope of the claims.

Claims (2)

1. A method for cutting out clothes by using a seven-line three-mode method is characterized by comprising the following steps:
step 100, measuring the body, recording the girth sizes of shoulders, breasts, waists and hips, and the sizes of waist sections, clothes lengths and collar girths, wherein the sizes are measured in inches;
step 200, spreading cloth, folding the cloth edge of a factory, cutting the back piece, and then cutting the front piece;
step 300, drawing and plate making, wherein the whole clothes can be evenly divided into four equal parts according to the front-back symmetry and the left-right symmetry of a human body, one part of the whole clothes is drawn and plate made, and other three parts are copied, wherein each part of the whole clothes comprises a flush line, a folding line, a clothes length line, a shoulder line, a chest line, a waist line and a hip line, and further comprises shoulder points corresponding to the shoulder line, chest points corresponding to the chest line, waist points corresponding to the waist line and/or hip points corresponding to the hip line,
the garment is a dress, and step 300 includes:
making a back piece layout on the back piece, which comprises drawing a cloth edge line at the right edge of the back piece cloth according to the transverse and longitudinal yarn directions of the cloth and the longitudinal yarn direction as the left and right, drawing with the left as the lower part and the right as the upper part,
step 301, a flush line perpendicular to the cloth line is made at the edge of the left side of the back piece cloth close to the cloth,
step 302, making parallel lines corresponding to the cloth edge lines and the flush edge lines inwards one inch respectively on the basis of the cloth edge lines and the flush edge lines, making back lines and folded edge lines,
step 303, measuring a clothes length to the right based on the folding line, making a clothes length line parallel to the folding line,
304, making a shoulder line parallel to the clothing length line in the direction of downward swinging based on the clothing length line, 304 making a shoulder line parallel to the clothing length line in the direction of downward swinging based on the clothing length line by 1.5 inches,
step 305, making a chest line parallel to the shoulder line in the direction of the lower hem based on the shoulder line, step 305 making a chest line parallel to the shoulder line in the chest at two chests separated by 10 times from the shoulder line in the direction of the lower hem based on the shoulder line,
step 306, measuring the length of a waist section in the direction of the lap based on the clothing length line to form a waist line parallel to the clothing length line, step 306 measuring the length of a waist section in the direction of the lap based on the clothing length line to form a waist line parallel to the clothing length line,
step 307, making a hip line parallel to the waist line in a downward swinging direction based on the waist line,
step 308, according to the girth sizes of the shoulders, the chest, the waist and the hips, corresponding shoulder points, chest points, waist points and hip points are found out on corresponding shoulder-falling lines, chest girth lines, waist girth lines and hip girth lines from the back line, all the girth points are marked, the chest points and the waist points are connected by a bent ruler professional typesetting ruler,
shoulder points: one half shoulder width +0.3 part by sewing,
chest point: one fourth of the bra and 0.3 of the bra, wherein the bra is net bra and the relaxation amount is 1 inch, and all the measurement sizes are net sizes,
waist circumference: one fourth of the waist circumference of the wool, 0.3 sewing parts and 0.6 province amount,
hip circumference: one fourth of the hip circumference of the hair is sewed with 0.3,
step 309, making an armhole line according to the shoulder point, the chest point, the shoulder line and the chest circumference line, wherein the step 309 comprises: finding 1 inch from the shoulder point to the cloth edge as an armhole, making a perpendicular line from the point of 1 inch to the chest line, finding a point of one third from the chest line, making a point of a right angle formed by the chest line and the perpendicular line as an angular bisector, finding a point of 0.7 inch from the right angle point on the angular bisector, making an arc from the point of 0.7 inch and the point of one third, making a straight line from the point of one third to the shoulder point as a line of the anterior armhole, making a distance of 0.5 inch on the basis of the anterior armhole, and making the same line of the posterior armhole,
step 310, making neckline according to the shoulder point, the clothes length line and the back line, wherein the step 310 respectively takes the back line and the clothes length line as the neck width and the neck depth,
the formula of the collar width: about two tenths of the neck, 0.4 cun,
front neck depth formula: two tenths of collar circumference +0.3 sewing,
making an arc in the rectangular auxiliary line as a front collar, making an arc in the back collar with the garment length line of 0.7 inch in the downward swinging direction as a back collar, connecting a collar width point and a shoulder point,
repeating the steps 301 to 310, and drawing and making a plate to make the rest three layouts of the whole clothes, so that the plate making of the whole clothes is finished; step 400, tailoring the clothes according to the plate making, tailoring the rear piece along the edge aligning line, the cloth edge line, the rear neckline and the rear armhole line, tailoring the front piece on the rest pieces of cloth along the tailoring line of the front piece after comparing the front and the rear, and completing tailoring the whole one-piece dress.
2. The method of utilizing a seven-thread three-style cut garment of claim 1, wherein the garment further comprises four types of dress, shirts, pants, and suits.
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