CN103390085B - A kind of the automatic of basic style of clothes beats version method - Google Patents
A kind of the automatic of basic style of clothes beats version method Download PDFInfo
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- CN103390085B CN103390085B CN201310312531.XA CN201310312531A CN103390085B CN 103390085 B CN103390085 B CN 103390085B CN 201310312531 A CN201310312531 A CN 201310312531A CN 103390085 B CN103390085 B CN 103390085B
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 23
- 239000003337 fertilizer Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 210000001624 hip Anatomy 0.000 claims 4
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 description 7
- 238000010009 beating Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000001459 lithography Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000004364 calculation method Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000005094 computer simulation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000004422 calculation algorithm Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000000205 computational method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002708 enhancing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000002474 experimental method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000000465 moulding Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003973 paint Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
Automatic the present invention relates to a kind of basic style of clothes beats version method, and process includes：Determine the parameter of the basic style of the clothes；The parameter of the basic style of clothes is inputted to computer master making instrument and represents the empirical value of personal degree；Latticed structure line chart is drawn, further to draw key point；According to the key point and the structure line chart demarcated by hand, the relation between the parameter of each described key point and the basic style of the clothes is found, determines the coordinate of the key point；After the completion of the coordinate of all key points determines, corresponding point is connected with straight line or SPL, completes the drafting of the basic style domain of the clothes；The basic style domain of the drafting is exported as the dxf forms of CAD of Garment software generic by computer master making instrument automatically, for further use.The present invention follows the process and rule of the making domain of plate-making teacher, using the parameter of simple, intuitive, draws out the clothes version type figure for some the basic styles for meeting parameter automatically, reaches the drawing course for reducing plate-making Shi Fanfu, increase productivity.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to technical field of costume design, automatic more particularly to a kind of basic style of clothes beats version method.
Background technology
Clothes beat version and refer to Size calculation result according to key position in clothes automatically, are automatically drawn with computer
Go out the domain of basic clothes style, and the result drawn is consistent with actual hand-drawing result.Clothes is beaten platemaking technology and existed automatically
It is of crucial importance in garment manufacturing industry, because it can greatly reduce beating the version time for plate-making teacher, improve clothing efficiency, enhancing enterprise
The competitiveness of industry.
Clothing plate making technology is broadly divided into two classes：
The first kind：Plane cutting method：Plane cutting refers to the data calculated according to formula, and experience of plate-making teacher etc.,
Apparel construction figure is drawn on the paper of plane, forms pattern tissue, then single-piece is carried out using pattern or batch is cut, make life
Production.Plane cutting is not directly perceived enough, relies on experience, is not suitable for completing the complicated three-dimensional clothes style with pleat.Such as day basis
Type is cut, Chinese proportional cutting, and parent form cuts and belongs to plane cutting；
Second class：Three-dimensional cutting method：Three-dimensional cutting refers to first use fabric (fabric of the low suitable designed concept of cost)
The style molding operation of clothes is come out (fabric fixation on people's platform by pin) on stereo man table, with pen on fabric
Carry out the mark of apparel construction line；Then the structure lines that fabric repaiies suitable garment piece in the plane are removed；Finally the clothes knot of fabric
Structure line, which is copied on paper, forms pattern tissue completion plate-making.Three-dimensional cutting is directly perceived, independent of experience, is adapted to having for completion complexity more
The strong clothes fashion of the third dimension of pleat.
Although three-dimensional cutting method can complete more complicated clothes fashion, this method carries stronger people's industry and traffic
Interoperability is, it is necessary to which cutter's rich experience, the rule unobvious during cutting, special active computer simulate this mistake
When journey, it is difficult to which the isometric Horizon of fabric model is taped against in plane, then mistake will be introduced when cutting the structure lines of garment piece
Difference, cause final domain unavailable.Then for plane cutting method, because it is operated in paper pattern, technical staff
Skill is ripe, and manufacturing process is regular follows, and is especially suitable for computer simulation.
But existing plate-making CAD software merely provides the instrument of plane cutting, it is necessary to which Shi Benshen wirings of making a plate, are formed
Domain, most of ignore play the exploitation of platemaking technology automatically, or are provided with the simple automatic CAD of Garment software for beating version function,
But due to the complexity of its parameter, it is difficult to which beating version automatically goes out a gratifying domain.
The content of the invention
The purpose of the present invention is to follow the process and rule of the making domain of plate-making teacher, using the parameter of simple, intuitive, from
The dynamic clothes version type figure for drawing out some the basic styles for meeting parameter, reaches the drawing course for reducing plate-making Shi Fanfu, improves
Productivity.
Based on the result of calculation of some key position sizes in pattern making, final purpose of the invention is according to these numbers
Value automatically draws out the domain of some basic styles with computer.
Technical scheme mainly includes：Determine the parameter of the basic style of the clothes；To computer master making instrument
Input the parameter of the basic style of the clothes and represent the empirical value of personal degree；Latticed structure line chart is drawn, to enter
One step draws key point；According to the key point and the structure line chart demarcated by hand, each described key point and described is found
Relation between the parameter of the basic style of clothes, determine the coordinate of the key point；When the coordinate of all key points determines to complete
Afterwards, corresponding point is connected with straight line or SPL, completes the drafting of the basic style domain of the clothes；Computer
The basic style domain of the drafting is exported as the dxf forms of CAD of Garment software generic by lithographic tool automatically, for further
Use.
The basic style of clothes includes longuette, overskirt, western-style clothes, shorts, the type of shirt five.
When the basic style of clothes is longuette, the parameter of the basic style of clothes includes：Height, skirt length, bust, waist
Enclose, hip circumference, shoulder breadth and neck it is big.
For the clothes domain of basic money, according to the lithography process of plate-making teacher, and the crucial number on the domain provided
According to, the key point used in its lithography process is analyzed, and the coordinate of the key point on domain is calculated automatically, then according to suitable
Sequence broken line or SPL connection key point, complete the automatic drafting of domain.
Meter based on some key positions in pattern making (such as height, measurements of the chest, waist and hips, shoulder breadth, dropped shoulder, clothing length, founding shelves etc.) size
Calculate result, final purpose of the invention be according to these numerical value automatically draw out some basic styles (such as western-style clothes, longuette, half
The class of skirt, shorts, shirt etc. five) layout file, with reduce make a plate teacher complicated work, improve technological process efficiency.Wherein
The technical problem of solution is to follow plate-making teacher to beat version process, deeply understands its dozen of version principles, analyzes the pass during dozen version
Key point (intersection point for referring mainly to different straight lines), then the layout size known to, calculates the seat of key point in domain automatically
Mark, completes the automatic drafting of domain.
Brief description of the drawings
The techniqueflow chart of Fig. 1 present invention；
Fig. 2 is the substantially planar structure chart for drawing domain；
Fig. 3 is the longuette key point location drawing demarcated by hand；
Fig. 4 is the automatic longuette domain for beating version；
Fig. 5 a-5d are respectively automatic overskirt domain, shorts domain, western-style clothes domain and the shirt domain for beating version.
Embodiment
The present invention is described further below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.
Referring to Fig. 1, clothes of the present invention are beaten an edition method and mainly included the following steps that automatically：The basic layout data of input；Paint
Structure line chart processed；Calculate crucial apex coordinate；Crucial summit is connected, completes layout drawing.
The present invention basic style of interest includes five types such as longuette, overskirt, western-style clothes, shorts, shirt, their pass
Key point be automatically positioned it is identical in algorithm principle, so the present invention only illustrate how to carry out longuette it is automatic beat version, remaining four
To beat version mode similar for kind basic style automatic.In lithography process, the parameter involved by longuette mainly includes：Height, skirt
Long, bust, waistline, hip circumference, shoulder breadth and neck are big, and an also empirical value, is used to indicate that personal degree in addition.Take height
160cm, skirt long 100cm, bust 92cm, waistline 80cm, hip circumference 94cm, shoulder breadth 38cm, leads big 38cm, empirical value 10cm, below
We start progressively to teach how to carry out automatic plate making to longuette according to these parameters
Step 1：
Draw the long line of clothing that length is 100cm；FRONT NECK DROP line is drawn, its height is big 2/10 of neck；Dropped shoulder line before picture, its height
For the 1/20 of bust；BL BUST LINE is drawn, its height is the 2/10+6.5 of net bust；Waistline is drawn, its height is the 1/4 of height；Draw
Hipline, its height are from waistline down 19cm；Breastheight line is drawn, its height is definite value 24.5cm；According to these values, Wo Menke
To draw out a coarse grid, and all making of longuette domain are carried out all on grid, this that is domain
All crucial summits on this grid, this grid drawing is as shown in Figure 2：
Step 2：
According to the key point demarcated by hand, find the relation between each key point and known condition, it is known that bar
Part includes the information such as the parameter of the basic style of clothes, and the key point demarcated by hand is as shown in figure 3, its coordinate is：Piece is (referring to figure afterwards
3 left-hand components) relation between point, rear piece includes point P1-P19.Wherein, point P9Abscissa be the 1/2 of shoulder breadth, ordinate is
Dropped shoulder+1 afterwards；Point P1Coordinate be point P9The point of left oblique upper linearly extends forward 3cm；Point P2Abscissa be point P1
1/3, ordinate is 3.4；Point P3Abscissa be 0；Ordinate and point P2Ordinate it is identical；Point P4Abscissa be 0, indulge
Coordinate is point P3Ordinate+1；Point P5Ordinate be BL BUST LINE height；Point P6Ordinate be waistline height；Point P7's
Ordinate is the height of hipline；Point P8Ordinate be skirt length；Point P10Abscissa be point P9Abscissa -1, ordinate is
Point P9Ordinate+(point P12Ordinate-point P9Ordinate)/2；Point P11Abscissa be point P10Abscissa+2.7*
0.707, ordinate is point P12Ordinate -2.7*0.707；Point P12Abscissa be rear bust fertilizer, ordinate is point P5It is vertical
Coordinate；Calculating point P13Coordinate before, it is necessary to first calculate dart, dart=(rear bust fertilizer+preceding bust fertilizer -2)/6- waistlines/
12, then, point P13Abscissa be point P12Abscissa-dart, ordinate is point P6Ordinate；Similarly, point P14Dart
=hip circumference/4- (rear bust fertilizer+preceding bust fertilizer -2)/2, then point P14Abscissa be point P12Abscissa-dart, ordinate
It is point P7Ordinate；Point P15Abscissa be point P12Abscissa+1.5, ordinate is point P8Ordinate；Point P16Horizontal stroke
Coordinate is point P12Abscissa 1/2, ordinate is point P12Ordinate -2；Point P17Abscissa be point P16Abscissa-point
P13Dart, ordinate is point P6Ordinate；Point P18Abscissa be point P16Abscissa+point P13Dart, ordinate is
Point P6Ordinate；Point P19Abscissa be point P16Abscissa, ordinate is point P6Ordinate+12.The base of above-mentioned computing
Our unit is cm.
Similarly, the drawing principle of anter domain is consistent with rear piece, in the same way, before can drawing out longuette
The crucial summit P of piece1-P23(referring to Fig. 3 right-hand components), its coordinate are specially：Upper right angular vertex is along place straight line to moving to left 3cm
It is point P1Coordinate；Point P2Abscissa be shoulder breadth/2-1+0.7, ordinate is upper dropped shoulder -1；Point P3Abscissa be point P2's
Abscissa -2, ordinate are point P2Ordinate+(chest dart-point P2Ordinate)/2, chest dart be BL BUST LINE height -3.5；
Point P4Abscissa be point P3Abscissa, point P4Ordinate be point P3Ordinate+3；Point P6Abscissa be point P4Horizontal stroke
Coordinate -0.707*2, ordinate are chest dart -0.707*2；Point P7It is circle and the intersection point of chest dart, the round center of circle is breastheight point,
Length is breastheight point-to-point P9Distance；Point P5With point P8It is point P respectively4With point P6An angle, this angle are rotated on breastheight point
Spend for ∠ P9P23P7；Point P9Abscissa be the 1/4 of bust, ordinate be BL BUST LINE height；Point P10Abscissa be point P9Horizontal stroke
Coordinate-dart one, ordinate are the height of waistline；Point P11Abscissa be point P9Abscissa-dart two, ordinate is stern
The height of contour；Point P12Abscissa be point P9Abscissa -1.5, ordinate be clothing length；Point P13It is point P1With point P14Midpoint
Along point P1With point P14Normal direction movement 2；Point P14Abscissa be 0, ordinate is the big 2/10+3 of neck；Point P15Horizontal seat
Mark is point P14Abscissa, ordinate is point P9Ordinate；Point P16Abscissa be point P14Abscissa, ordinate is a little
P10Ordinate；Point P17Abscissa be point P16Abscissa, ordinate is point P11Ordinate；Point P18Abscissa be a little
P14Abscissa, ordinate is point P12Ordinate；Point P19Coordinate=(P18+P12- (1.5,0))/2；Point P20Abscissa
It is point P19Abscissa, ordinate is point P11Ordinate；Point P21Abscissa be point P20Abscissa+dart one, ordinate
It is point P10Ordinate；Point P22Abscissa be point P20Abscissa-dart one, ordinate is point P10Ordinate；Point P23
For breastheight point, its abscissa is the 1/10-0.2 of bust, and ordinate is definite value 24.5；Wherein, dart one=(bust/2-1.3)/
6- waistline/12, two=hip circumference of dart/4- (bust/2-1.3)/2；The base unit of above-mentioned computing is cm.
Step 3：
According to the calculation described in above, after the position on all crucial summits of front and rear panel calculates, straight line is used
Or SPL connects corresponding point the drafting for just completing longuette domain, the result of drafting is as shown in Figure 4.
Particularly, after completing domain, program is derived automatically from the dxf forms of CAD of Garment software generic, for further making
With.
Relative to former pattern making method, the present invention has the following advantages that：
1. the present invention is simple to operate, plate-making teacher only needs to input the numerical value of several key positions, and computer can be counted automatically
Specific layout data is calculated, this domain can use for common clothes modeling software；
2. the computational methods of the present invention are simple, parameter meaning is directly perceived, can also be carried even without any people for beating version experience
For data, beat version and go out satisfied domain result.
Make substantial amounts of experiment under different parameter, different basic moneys, test result indicates that, the present invention can be accurate
The domain with the basic style of manual drawing identical is drawn out on ground automatically, and this domain is when importing 3D fashion store softwares,
The clothes that beaten version goes out can be properly generated, overskirt domain, shorts domain, western-style clothes domain and the shirt domain difference drawn out
As shown in Fig. 5 a-5d.
The purpose of the present invention is using the lithography process of computer simulation plate-making teacher, from its dozen of version principles, analyzes and beats version
During crucial summit, and these crucial summits are made marks, then according to existing data, it is crucial to calculate these automatically
The coordinate position of point.Therefore, it is any to be included in based on remaining extension proposed by the present invention and application within the present invention, such as remaining
The domain automatic modeling of style, and fashion store application etc..
Claims (2)
1. a kind of the automatic of basic style of clothes beats version method, it is characterised in that the described method comprises the following steps：
(1) parameter of the basic style of the clothes is determined；
(2) input the parameter of the basic style of clothes to computer master making instrument and represent the empirical value of personal degree；
(3) latticed structure line chart is drawn, further to draw key point；
(4) according to the key point and the structure line chart demarcated by hand, find each described key point and the clothes are basic
Relation between the parameter of style, determine the coordinate of the key point；
(5) after the completion of the coordinate of all key points determines, corresponding point is connected with straight line or SPL, completed
The drafting of the basic style domain of clothes；
(6) the basic style domain of the drafting is exported as the dxf lattice of CAD of Garment software generic by computer master making instrument automatically
Formula, it is for further use；
When the basic style of clothes is longuette, the parameter of the basic style of clothes includes：Height, skirt length, bust, waistline, stern
Enclose, shoulder breadth and neck it is big；
When the basic style of clothes is longuette, the parameter of the basic style of clothes is：Height is 160cm, a length of 100cm of skirt,
Bust is 92cm, waistline 80cm, hip circumference 94cm, shoulder breadth 38cm, leads greatly 38cm, also, the personal degree of expression
Empirical value be 10cm；
When the basic style of clothes is longuette, described the step of drawing latticed structure line chart, includes：It is 100cm's to draw length
The long line of clothing；FRONT NECK DROP line is drawn, its height is big 2/10 of neck；Dropped shoulder line before picture, its height are the 1/20 of bust；Draw BL BUST LINE,
Its height is the 2/10+6.5cm of net bust；Waistline is drawn, its height is the 1/4 of height；Hipline is drawn, its height is from waistline
Line down 19cm；Breastheight line is drawn, its height is definite value 24.5cm；According to these values, a latticed structure line chart is drawn out；
When the basic style of clothes is longuette, and after structure line chart is drawn, the coordinate of the determination key point is：
Wherein, rear piece includes point P1-P19, and the point P1-P19 of rear piece coordinate is specially：The 1/2 of shoulder breadth is as point P9's
Abscissa, point P9 ordinate is rear dropped shoulder+1；The point of the left oblique uppers of point P9 linearly extends forward 3 seat as point P1
Mark；Point P2 abscissa is the 1/3 of point P1, and ordinate is 3.4；Point P3 abscissa is 0, the ordinate phase of ordinate and point P2
Together；Point P4 abscissa is 0, and ordinate is point P3 ordinate+1；Point P5 abscissa is 0, and ordinate is BL BUST LINE height；
Point P6 abscissa is 0, and ordinate is waistline height；Point P7 abscissa is 0, and ordinate is hipline height；Point P8's
Abscissa is 0, and ordinate is skirt length；Point P10 abscissa is point P9 abscissa -1, and ordinate is point P9 ordinate+(point
P12 ordinate-point P9 ordinate)/2；Point P11 abscissa is point P10 abscissa+2.7*0.707, and ordinate is a little
P12 ordinate -2.7*0.707；Point P12 abscissa is rear bust fertilizer, and ordinate is point P5 ordinate；Calculating point
, it is necessary to first calculate point P13 dart before P13 coordinate, point P13 dart=(rear bust fertilizer+preceding bust fertilizer -2)/6- waists
/ 12 are enclosed, then, point P13 abscissa is point P12 abscissa-point P13 dart, and ordinate is point P6 ordinate；Together
Reason, point P14 dart=hip circumference/4- (rear bust fertilizer+preceding bust fertilizer -2)/2, then point P14 abscissa is point P12 horizontal seat
Mark-point P14 dart, ordinate are point P7 ordinates；Point P15 abscissa is point P12 abscissa+1.5, and ordinate is
Point P8 ordinate；Point P16 abscissa is the 1/2 of point P12 abscissa, and ordinate is point P12 ordinate -2；Point P17
Abscissa be point P16 abscissa-point P13 dart, ordinate is point P6 ordinate；Point P18 abscissa is point P16
Abscissa+point P13 dart, ordinate is point P6 ordinate；Point P19 abscissa is point P16 abscissa, ordinate
It is point P6 ordinate+12；
Anter equally includes point P1-P23, and the point P1-P23 of anter coordinate is specially：Upper right angular vertex is along place straight line
To moving to left 3 coordinates for being point P1；Point P2 abscissa is shoulder breadth/2-1+0.7, and ordinate is upper dropped shoulder -1；Point P3 abscissa
It is point P2 abscissa -2, ordinate is point P2 ordinate+(chest dart-point P2 ordinate)/2, and chest dart is BL BUST LINE
Highly -3.5；Point P4 abscissa is point P3 abscissa, and point P4 ordinate is point P3 ordinate+3；Point P6 abscissa
It is point P4 abscissa -0.707*2, ordinate is chest dart -0.707*2；Point P7 is to justify the intersection point with chest dart, the round center of circle
For breastheight point, length is breastheight point-to-point P9 distance；Point P5 and point P8 is point P4 and point P6 respectively on breastheight point rotation one
Individual angle, this angle are ∠ P9P23P7；Point P9 abscissa is the 1/4 of bust, and ordinate is BL BUST LINE height；Point P10 horizontal stroke
Coordinate is point P9 abscissa-dart one, and ordinate is the height of waistline；Point P11 abscissa is point P9 abscissa-province
Amount two, ordinate is the height of hipline；Point P12 abscissa is point P9 abscissa -1.5, and ordinate is clothing length；Point P13
It is that normal direction of the point P1 and point P14 midpoint along point P1 and point P14 moves 2；Point P14 abscissa is 0, and ordinate is that neck is big
2/10+3；Point P15 abscissa is point P14 abscissa, and ordinate is point P9 ordinate；Point P16 abscissa is a little
P14 abscissa, ordinate are point P10 ordinates；Point P17 abscissa is point P16 abscissa, and ordinate is point P11
Ordinate；Point P18 abscissa is point P14 abscissa, and ordinate is point P12 ordinate；Point P19 coordinate=(P18
+ P12- (1.5,0))/2；Point P20 abscissa is point P19 abscissa, and ordinate is point P11 ordinate；Point P21 horizontal stroke
Coordinate is point P20 abscissa+dart one, and ordinate is point P10 ordinate；Point P22 abscissa is point P20 horizontal seat
Mark-dart one, ordinate are point P10 ordinates；Point P23 is breastheight point, and its abscissa is the 1/10-0.2 of bust, ordinate
It is definite value 24.5；Wherein, dart one=(bust/2-1.3)/6- waistline/12, two=hip circumference of dart/4- (bust/2-1.3)/2；
The base unit of above-mentioned computing is cm.
2. the automatic of the basic style of clothes according to claim 1 beats version method, it is characterised in that：The basic money of clothes
Type includes longuette, overskirt, western-style clothes, shorts, the type of shirt five.
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| CN108829958B (en) * | 2018-06-01 | 2021-07-13 | 东华大学 | Automatic clothing plate making method and system |
| CN110652061B (en) * | 2018-06-29 | 2022-07-19 | 香港理工大学深圳研究院 | Automatic clothes making method and system and terminal equipment |
| CN109349693B (en) * | 2018-11-19 | 2020-11-10 | 布梵依道(北京)文化发展有限公司 | Method for cutting out clothes by using seven-line three-mode |
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| CN112281462A (en) * | 2020-12-15 | 2021-01-29 | 福建七匹狼实业股份有限公司 | Shirt fabric typesetting and cutting method |
| CN113519953A (en) * | 2021-06-21 | 2021-10-22 | 厦门理工学院 | Clothing structure plate making method |
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| 服装CAD的打板模式及其应用分析;陈义华;《中国优秀硕士学位论文全文数据库 工程科技I辑》;20090730(第07期);第22页第1段，第43页第1段，第45-47页第3.3.2节，表1，图26 * |
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