US1607795A

US1607795A - Adjustable chart for drafting garments

Info

Publication number: US1607795A
Application number: US676990A
Authority: US
Inventors: Charles T Mackey
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1923-11-26
Filing date: 1923-11-26
Publication date: 1926-11-23
Anticipated expiration: 1943-11-23

Description

Nov. 23 1926.

, c.'"r. .MACKEY ADJUSTABLE CHART FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS File Nov 26. 192: s Sheets-Sheet 1 (Juries rmack -m,a

NOV. 23 1926.

c. 'r. MACKEY' ADJUSTABLE CHART FOR viufimue GARMENTS I 3 Sheets-Sheet Filed Nov. 2 192:

Cimrles TMackeJz vnf Nov. 23 1926.

c. 'r. MACKEY ADJUSTABLE CHART FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS Filed Nov. 2 1923 3 Sheets-Sheet :5

ewes rMacir 4v Patented Nov. 23, 1926.

UNITED STATES CHARLE$ 'I. MAOKEY,

0F CHICAGO, ILLINOIS,

ADJUSTABLE CHART FOR DRAF'IING GARMENTS.

Application filed November This invention relates to charts or templets for use in drafting coats, vests and trousers and has for its object to provide a chart which can be used for drafting garments of various sizes, and by which the marginal or peripheral outlines of the charts or templets may be altered or adjusted to give clear lines of markings for the different styles and sizes of garments, thereby obviating the necessity of employing perforations through which markings or dots are made for lines giving the major dimensions and outlines of the garments, and greatly facilitating and expediting the designing and cutting of garments, as well as insuring accuracy and a better fit.

It is a further-object of the invention to provide a chart which, in addition to allowing various sizes of garments within a certain range, to be drafted from a single pattern, will also provide for proper co-ordination between, firstly, the pockets of the coatand vest and length of said garment, and, secondly, the height of the knee in relation to the length of the trousers or pants, and which canbe readily adjusted and will remain in an adjusted position for use until readjusted.

The above and other objects and features of novelty of the invention will appear from the detailed description of the invention taken in connection with the accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification.

Referring to the drawings:

Figure lis a plan or face view of a chart for a coat front of the single-breasted, or sack form-fitting type and cut-away front, all of the adjustable parts being retract-ed.

Figure? is a view similar to Fig. 1, with the adjustable parts projected to produce a larger size coat.

Figure 3 is a view similar to Figs. 1 and 2, but showing certain adjustable parts set to produce a single-breasted straight front sack coat.

Figure 4 is a face view showing all of the parts adjust-ed to produce a double-breasted or box front and back in contra-distinct on to the form-fitting back shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3.

Figure 5 is a vertical sectional view taken on the line of Fig. 4.

2s, 192a Serial No. 676,990.

Figure 6 is a face View of a chart for forming the back of a coat and adjusted for a small size garment.

Figure 7 is a view similar to Fig. 6, but showing the parts adjusted for a larger size coat with a loose back in lieu of aformfitting back as shown in Fig. 6.

Figure 8 is an enlarged sectional View taken on the line 88 of Fig. 7 and showing part of an adjustable extension for a doublello reasted .or box coat folded in in dotted ines.

Figure 9 is a view similar to Fig. 8, but showing a further adjustment for producing a still smaller garment.

Figure 10 is a face view of a chart for producing the front of the trousers and from which the chart for producing the back of the trousers may be understood.

Figure 11 is a chart for the vest, and

Figure 1.2 is a face view of a sleeve chart.

Referring to the drawings in detail, in which like reference characters designate corresponding parts throughout the several views, A and B illustrate, respectively, the charts from which the front and back of coats are cut. The normal margin or peripheral outlines of the patterns or charts A and B will give a single-breasted formfitting sack coat of the smallest size produced by the pattern, as, for instance, size 84. At the bottom of pattern A is an adjustable bottom section 7 consisting of an extensible part, corresponding to the out-' line of the bottom of pattern A, and provided with the

graduation lines

34, 35 and 36, parallel to the bottom edge of the pattern A, or section 7 thereof, which gives size 84 or other size for which the pattern is cut. The adjustable bottom section f is provided with a plurality of vertical slots 13, receiving eyelets, rivets or other fasteners 14, which are mounted in the pattern A, to permitvertical extension or adjustment of the section f to any one of the three sizes, such as 34, 35 and 36, for which the present pattern is shown adapted. The eyelets or other fasteners 14, are designed to frictionally hold the adjustable section 7 in adjusted position to extend below the pattern A or to be hidden beneath, the same, as shown in Fig. 1 of the drawings.

(iii

Obviously, a pattern may be out for any number or plurality of sizes other than 34, 35 and 36, such as 21, 22 and 23, so that each pattern serves for a plurality of sizes of garments. The adjustable section 7 is for producing a larger garment having a sack, or cut-away design, corresponding to the normal outline of the pattern A.

lVithin the body of the pattern, is a scale 9, having scale lines for cooperating with the graduation lines of section f, but adapted to indicate the height of a pocket corresponding to the length of the coat, and at spaced intervals of the scale lines 9 are points or perforations g which give the proper height and width of the pocket for any given length of garment. Section F in chart B corresponds to section 7 in chart A, and is similarly mounted and adjustable.

In connection with the adjustable section 7 for garments or coats of a larger size than that given by the normal marginal dimensions or peripheral outline of the pattern or chart A, an adjustable front section h is provided having short horizontal slots 15, receiving the eyelets or fasteners 16, carried by the chart A, so as to be extensible from the front edge of the chart or pattern A, or to be moved inwardly beneath the same. The adjustable front section it bears the

graduation lines

34, 35 and 36, or other graduation lines corresponding to the sec tion 7, to give a correspondingly sized garment or coat, according to the pattern, style and size desired as shown more particularly in Fig. 2, of the drawings which is set to give size 36.

The back of the garment at the edge is designed to produce a form-fitting coat, and when a loose back is desired in connection with a straight front or double breasted coat, an adjustable back section j is employed. This adjustable section y" is pro vided with a plurality of horizontal slots 17 engaged by eyelets or other fasteners 18, so that when the adjustable back section y" is extended, a straight loose back may be produced. For the form-fitting coat, the scale lines j and are also employed, the n'iaterial between the same being cut out. For adjustment of the seat portion of the coat, the scale lines 9 are used, corresponding to the other measurements. The waist line is indicated by the scale lines 9 and the breast by the scale lines 57*. The several scale lines have several perforations through which markings are made upon the pattern or material to be cut, and it should be noted that these scales are located within the hotly of the pattern.

All of the graduations of the various scales described, correspond to the sizes of the garments to be produced by the given chart or pattern. It should be noted that when sections 7 and h are adjusted as shown in Fig. 2. the edges coincide to give the proper outline or design of garment as produced by the peripheral outline of the pattern A as shown on Fig. 1 of the drawings, except that the size is changed or enlarged to give size 36. The back edge of the extension also aligns with the edge j and when. the adj table section. j is extended as shown in I of the drawings, a loose baclz may be can in den of the fornrfitting back.

VVh-en a double breasted form-fitting coat is desired, the pattern line may be employed in conjunction with an adjustable front section /2 which is provided with parallel horizontal slots 19 engaged by eyelets, or other suitable fasteners 20, which also extend through corresponding slots 21 in the intermediate adjustable front section h. The normal length of the adjustable section If is the same as that of pattern A as shown in Fig. 1 of the drawings, as well as in Fig. 3 of the drawings, and, in addition, it includes a foldable section if at the bottom. hinged asindicated at 22 to the section 7L2 along a line corresponding to and extending forwardly from the bottom edge of the chart or pattern A. This permits the section [L3 to be folded upwardly as indicated in dotted lines in Figs. 1, 2 and 5 of the drawings, to give a length corresponding to the length of the pattern A, as well as to dispose of the same out-of-the-way when not in use. Snap or glove fasteners or the like 23 are provided upon the inner or back faces of the adjustable section h and the foldable portion or section 703 thereof, so that when the latter is turned backwardly and upwardly it may be detachably and securely held in this position.

When a single-breasted straight front coat is desired, as distinguished from the cutaway front shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings, the parts are arranged as shown in Fig. 3 of the drawings, according to the size desired, the adjustable front and bottom sections 7i and 7 being extended when the size is enlarged. In each instance, the foldable bottom section [L3 is dropped down as shown in Fig. 3, to continue the section it and scales thereof as well as to build sect-ion 7 out at the front to produce a straight front. YYhen the normal size is desired, such as size 3%- in the present instance, section 72, is brought up to the front ez'lge of the chart A.

The section W, as shown in Fig. 4 of the drawings, bears graduation i'narkings for a singlabreasted straight front coat, and for a double-breasted coat, the graduation lllfllliings 3 3.3 and 36 being those which are 'ilaced in juxtaposition and in parallelism with. the front edge of section if for correspondingly sized single-breasted garments. while the inner three lines of markings designated as 3 1:, *5 and 36 are designed for the respective sizes of double-breasted coats.

Thus, the single-breasted, straight front may be produced by the graduation markings on the section 71. as shown in Fig. 3. Moreover, when the adjustable front section b is projected or extended beyond the line 36 to the

lines

34', 35 and 36, the front coat chart or pattern is arranged to produce a double-breasted or box front coat and a full back when the section y" is extended, as shown in Fig. 4 of the drawings. It is to be understood that the adjustable bottom section f is correspondingly extended according to the size of the garment to be produced. and that the perforations in the body portion of the garment are correspondingly used as heretofore described.

The lapel of the coat is to be formed in the usual way, and the neck portion and arm-holes of the garment are produced and adjusted by means of the lines, and perforations 24: and 25, all as shown in the Figs. 1 to L of the drawings showing the charts from which the front of the coat is out. When the double-breasted form-fitting coat is desired the pattern A is followed at the back, the normal pattern line at the peripheral edge being used instead of the extensible back section j. It will thus be apparent that when a single-breasted form-fitting coat is desired, the normal front edge of the pattern A. is employed for a curved or cutaway front, or the section it adjusted to enlarge the size and that the section [L2 is employed for a straight front while the section it is in or without the same, as previously described. By this means, various sizes may be produced by the pattern and the outlines are followed without the necessity of employing markings produced through perforations in the pattern as heretofore required. This greatly facilitates and expedites the marking and cutting of the goods, and produces a garment of better fit. In form-fitting coats, the material between the points or perforations on the side of the lines j and 7' and 7c and 7c are also cut out from the ends of the line, to take up the width instead of allowing this material to remain in the garment, as where the double-breasted and loose-fitting coats are desired. Variations in the size of the arm-hole are also produced by the points or perforations j*. The foldable and adjustable bottom section 7L3 bears the lines of perforations h to vary the length of the garment in accordance withthe size produced.

lVhile I have shown the adjustable parts slidable and mounted by means of slots and eyelets or other fasteners as described, it is to be understood that any other suitable form of mounting means may be employed and that the section h may be otherwise constructed and arranged to give the desired adjustment at the bottom, so as to vary the length of the garn'ient, and, articularly, so

that it may be moved from and extended to a hidden or inner position behind the normal outline of the pattern, when not in use.

In the pattern B, the peripheral or marginal out-line, as shown in Fig. 6, will give the regular sized coat, which may be provided with a closed back or with in open vent as is common in the art. This pattern or chart B, may also be provided with the usual lines and perforations to give the proper breast, waist and seat measurements, as shown. The pattern B is provided with the adjustable bottom section f corresponding to the section f of the pattern A, and is provided with slots f ,engaged by eyelets, or the like by which .the same is Vertically adjustable. The section f is also provided with graduation lines corresponding to the section and with a hinged section 7 foldable at f to serve as a prolongation or eX- tensible section of an adjustable back or side extension m, having slots 24 engaged by eyelets or the like 25 carried by the main pattern or body B and terminating at the bottom edge, forming the normal marginal or peripheral outline thereof. The adjustable side extension m is provided with lines or markings as is also the hinged section f to give the different sizes, such as 34, 35 and 36. The section 7 may be held in a foldedback position as bymeans of glove fasteners r the like 26 carried by the foldable section and body, respectively. \Vhereas the graduation lines are one-half of an inch apart on the section if, they are one-quarter of an inch apart on section an, and since only onequarter of an inch is allowed on each side, a total of one-half inch is allowed for both back patterns B in making a complete coat with each variation in size from the standard measuren'ients of the pattern taken at its normal outline to an increase in size of one inch, such as from 34 to 85, or from 35 to 36, as specified.

' For box coats, an adjustable side section a is provided behind section m and has slots 27 engaged by eyelets or the like 28 carried by the pattern B, while additional slots 29 are provided in the section m to accommodate the shanks of the eyelets 28 and to permit independent adjustment of. these sections m and a. The foldablesection 7? also co-operates with the section a to produce an extension at'the bottom of the pattern B for box coats with a full loose-fitting back instead of a form-fitting back, for which the normal dimension of the pattern is adapted. In conjunction with the outside side section n, an adjustable inside or central section 0 is provided on the pattern B for use in designmg and cutting double-breasted or box coats with. full backs. The section 0 is provided with slots 29 engaged by eyelets 30 carried by the pattern 13, the section 0 having a straight edge in lieu of the concaved normal edge of the pattern B at the inside of the back, corresponding to the central line or seam at the back of the coat. It should also be noted that the section it terminates at the armhole designated by the shoulder or notch 31 while the section we extends to the top edge of the pattern 13 and is extensible to give the same outline as the adjacent edge of said pattern.

Figures 6 and 7 of the drawings are face views of the back part of coat pattern B and Figs. 8 and 9 are sectional views thereof showing in full or solid lines the section 7 extended to produce size 36. Fig. 8 shows in dotted lines one part of section 7" folded in to give size 35 and Fig. 9 shows in dotted lines, both parts folded in to give size as.

The pattern D shown in Fig. 10 of the drawings is for the front parts of the trousers. The bottom is provided with an adjustable or extensible section p of the same width as the main part of the pattern at the bottom and has slots 32 engaged by eyelets or other frictional connections 33 permitting adjustment of said section and serving to retain the same in an adjusted position. Section 39 bears scales p which indicate the length of the trousers, with perforations to give variations in length, such as 30 inches, 31 inches, or 32 inches, while. the normal length of the pattern is 29 inches, or other measurement desired according to the particular pattern. The length is always measured at the bottom. The scales 7 and 1" indicate the width of the trousers at the bottom and knee and the scales r locate the knees corresponding tothe scale 72. Scales for the seat are also provided in the usual manner and the front pattern of the trousers is of the usual shape, but extensible in a similar manner. A horizontal waist extension 8 is provided at the front or fly and has slots 3'7 engaged by eyelets or the like 38 to permit adjustment thereof uniformly at the top and bottom or at an angle, according to variations in the waist and seat or hip measurements. The slots 37 and 38 may be straight and sufficiently wide or curved to permit the section 8 to be adjusted or be swung at an angle to give waist measurements of 29, 30 or 31 inches or either with either hip measurement of 37, 38 or 39 inches, or other measurements allowed by the particular pattern, and scales and perforations s projecting beyond the notch to permit variation in the waist line measurement. The scales and perforations r and r at the knee and bottom, respectively, serve for the purpose of making markings and drawing lines parallel to the edges of the pattern C at the sides so that variations in the widths of the trousers may be laid out by the same pattern.

The normal measurement of width for the pattern shown may be 16 inches at the bottom and the perforations successively placed inside thereof, will produce a width of inches and 14: inches or any other width desired according to the particular pattern employed. This pattern will also give a waist measurement of 31 inches, inches, and 29 inches, together with corresponding measurements in the seat, and from the seat to the knee. The use of the other markings will be obvious to those skilled in the art.

In Fig. 11 of the drawings, a chart D for the vest pattern is shown. The front edge cl is for a straight out vest and the perforations of the scale line (Z is for a full dress or ouen cut vest. A scale d consisting of a series of horizontal lines, together with perforations (Z indicates the length of cut for the vest at the front to which the edge is extended, and may give any suitable measurement desired, such as 12, 13, 1 1 and 15 inches, or any other measurement according to the pattern used. A button stand (Z is provided at the front, being extended one inch at one side for this purpose. At the back edge (Z an adjustment of one and one-half inches is provided through the medium of a scale of perforations (Z to vary the waist measure, breast measure, and position of the pockets, the form shown being arranged to give the waist measure of 29, 30 and 31 inches, a breast measure of 33, 3-1 and inches and a length of 25, 26 and 27 inches. The latter elfected through the medium of an adjust able bottom section (Z having scale marl:- ings d with perforations corresponding to the scale perforations (Z and is provided with slots 39 engaged by eyelets or the like 4-0 carried by the chart or pattern D, so as to provide for the necessary adjustment and retention of the section (Z in an adjusted position, according to the length of vest desired, as just referred to. The normal dimension is 25 inchesand the section (Z is adjusted to give 26 or 27 inches, in which latter position it is entirely extended. Suit able means may be provided to indicate the height of the pockets and width thereof corresponding to the height, as usual.

In Fig. 12 of the drawings a sleeve pattern or chart E is shown with an adjustable section 6 at the cuff end provided with slots 41 engaged by eyelets carried by the body part to give the necessary adjustment for the length of the sleeve such as 18 inches, 19 inches, or 20 inches from the elbow to the cuff. An extension 6 may be provided to give the usual bell-shaped sleeve. A scale 0 is provided on the pattern E to indicate the length to the elbow and may consist of lines or perforations for making suitable dots or markings, as shown. The top of the pattern is arranged for connection to the front and back of the coat at the arm hole and is provided with an adjustable extension Ell lll5

6, having graduation lines 0' to vary the length and other dimensions thereof, such as 34*, 35 and The section 6 is provided with slots e3 engaged by eyelets H, in order to give the required adjustment. An eyelet 45 also connects the sections and serves as a pivot upon which the section 6 is adjusted, through the medium of the slots 48. This pattern E provides a top or outside of a sleeve and the in'iide is cut to engage the armpit, being provided with a concavely arcuate top end instead of a convex or irregular reverse curve as shown, this being the usual construction for this purpose and known to those skilled in the art.

By means of the above described pattern, garment material can be quickly and accurately cut, according to the size, design and style desired without a high degree of training, and each pattern or chart may be used for garment-.1 of different sizes, according to the range of adjustment provided, and a designer or tailor may have a complete set, with but few patterns. The equipment is such as to eliminate unnecessary expense in cutting garments and proper fit is insured. While I have shown and described patterns which provide three sizes of garments, it is to be understood that I do not desire to be limited to this particular number, as the range of sizes may be varied according to the requirements, or as desired in any particnlar instance. All of the perforations and slots may be reinforced by eyelets or other vise.

Having thus described my invention, What I claim is:

1. A chart or templet for drafting garments including a body portion having side and bottom edges of predetermined peripheral outline, an extensible section carried by the body portion adjacent each side and the bottom edge thereof, there being graduation lines on the extensible sections each positioned to cooperate with the adjacent edge of the body portion, and a foldable section hingedly connected to a side extensible section.

2. A chart or templet for drafting garments including a body portion having side and bottom edges of predetermined peripheral outline, an extenjible section carried by the body portion adjacent each side and the bottom edge thereof, there being graduation lines on the extensible section each positioned to cooperate with the adjacent edge of the body portion, and a foldable section hingedly connected to a side extensible section, the said foldable section being provided with graduation lines and cooperating with the side and bottom sections.

In testimony whereof I afiix my signature.

CHARLES T. MACKEY