US1635300A - Master template for laying out patterns - Google Patents

Description

. l v y 12 1927 I s. ABRAMS ET AL "ASTER TEMPLATE FOR LAYING OUT PATTERNS Filed April 2. 1924 2 Shoots-Sheet l Jul 12 19 y 27 s. ABRAMS ET AL MASTER TEMPLATE FOR LAYING QUI PATTERNS 2 Sheets-Shoot 2 Filed April 2, 1924 Patented July 12, 1927.

UNITED STATES SAMUEL 'ABRAM-S AND aosnrn nun-F; onen ioeeo, ILLINOIS.

MASTER TEMPLATE FOB LAYING QUT' BATTERNS.

Application: filed April. 2,

This invention relates to improvements in master templates for laying; out patterns from. previously determined measurements and. consists ot the matters hereinafter described and moreparticularly pointed out in the appended claim;

The primary object oi the. invention isto provide a noveland improved means by which perfect. patterns of" difierent' sizes as measuredby a. tailor may bequickly and ac curately. laid out.

This object-of the invention. as well: as the many advantagesthereof will more fully appear as we proceed with our specification.

In the: drawingsa Fig. 1-. is a. plan: view of. template parts, embodying. our invention, tor laying out patterns for coat backs. v

Fig. 2 is a. similar view of template parts for laying out patternsfor coat fronts.

3. is. a view. of the template parts for laying outpatterns for. the. sleevesofa coat.

Fig. 4: shows a. pattern sheet and. themanner ofllaying outa pattern thereon for, coat backs.

Fig... 5 shows a pattern sheet andithe manner of laying out a pattern thereon for coat tronts.

Figs. 6. and. 7 illustratethemanner of using the templateshownin Fig.3 when laying out thetop.v and under sleeve. part'sof a coat.

The, invention. is herein: illustrated. and will be described in connection with: templates used. laying out the patterns. tor anordinarybox coatosff a mans. suit of. cl'othes but the invention is. not intended to. be limited thereto as the same. principles of invention are. embodied in; templates. used for laying out patterns for vests and trousers,v which it. is thought unnecessary to illustrate and. describe in detail here.

Referring, now, in detail. to that embodiment of the invention illustrated; in. the. accompanying drawings and. more particularto Fig... 1,. 10 indicates. the template, for the top part of a. coat. hack. and 11 indicates the template for the bottom part. of a. coat baclh. both of which. are made of a fiairly stiff and strong paper,. as are. other template partsto be described later.

The template. part 10: isofi such form. as to include; the standard ouflihe: of a back. seam 12;. a. collar seanr 1-3,. shoulder seam 144: and arm pit 15- there-being an arbitrary bottom edgeor margin 15/ which is made: onthe plane of a chest or hreast measurementline-as used 1924. Serial No. 703 616;

by tailors in. measuring a person'for a suit of clothes. Said edge as illustrated herein issubstantially straight and horizontal ex.- cept aztthat end. where saidedge meets the arm pit line 15 where it isinclined as at 17. In the margins 12 and. 17 of said templates are a plurality of indicia notches 12 and 17* respectively, which are numbered from. 34 to a l inclusive. These numerals indicate ininches. the usual. sizes of standard" measurements as used in the tailoring trade. In the margin or edge 15' is provided asingle' notch 15 which acts as a guide when inscribing a predetermined mark upon a. pattern sheet. At the junction of the margins 13 and. 14s,. and 14 and 15 respectively, are provided. rows of perforations. 13 and: 14? respectively which like the notches 12 and 17? are numbered from.3 lto:44 inclusive.

In the lower leftand. right hand corners ofithetemplate part 1.0 are printed. or otherwise inscribed theletters A and B re spectively.

The template part 11 has side.- margins 18 and 19- ot standaaid outline corresponding to. the side and. rear seams for a coat back. In the margin. 18 is a notch 18% The top margin. 20 is made on! the breast line measurement before mentioned while the bottom margin 21 is. curved on! the lineof the bottom edge. of the skirt. of the coat. In the upper. left and. right hand corners of. the template, part 11' aresimilar indicia letters A and B as before mentioned.

In Fig. 2. is illustrated the template. pa'rts 22-23 and: 24 for coat. front patterns, The template-part 22. has an armhole margin 25, shoulder seam margin 26, neck or collar margin 27; and lapel fold line 28 all; made on standard outlines. while the bottom margin 29." is made straight on. the chest line. At the junction. or corner of the margins 25 and 26 are provided notches 25 numbered from 3.4 to Ms respectively, and in the margin 25 is a single notch 25*. Notches 28 similar to the notches 25 are provided in. the margin 28 near the margin 21. A row of holes 27 numbered from in tov 447" is provided .at-the junction of. the margins 26 and 27, while: a. single notch 29 is. formed in the breast line 29 and above the same is placed the. letter A31 Between the notches-25 and 29* andspaced-from'the margin 29 is a. perforation. 2.9 which. positionsv the breast pocket ot-v the coat front.. The template part 23 for the bottom part of the coat front includes a lapel extension 30 which has drawn upon it, a line 31 indicating the fold line of the lapel which come sponds to the margin 28 of the template part The margin 32 which is taken on the breast line has two sets of notches 32" and 32 both numbered 34 to 44 inclusive. In the edge 33 of the template which is the button and button hole margin of the template. is a notch 33 arranged on the breast line and in line therewith in the opposite margin 34 is a similar notch 34. In the bottom margin 35 of the template part 23 which corresponds to the hip line in tailors measurements, are notches 35 numbered 34 to 44 respectively. Just above the said bottom margin are holes 35 35 which position the pocket openings and in the margin 33 are spaced holes 33 for positioning the buttons and button holes.

The template 24 has two longer side margins 36 and 37 and in the first margin is formed a notch 36 while in the other margin arc notches 37 and 37 the notch 37 being arranged in a position corresponding to the breast line. The margin 36 corresponds to the gore lines for the taking in at the waist line while the margin 37 corresponds to the bottom part of the back seam.

In Fig. 3 the template parts for laying out the top and under sleeve parts are illustrated. 38 indicates the template part for laying off the top end of both sleeve part patterns and 39 indicates the template part for laying off the seam outline of said sleeve part. The template 38 has a bottom margin 40 which is made on the breast line, and two side margins 41 and 42 respectively. The margin 41 has an outline conforming to the top or shoulder end of the top sleeve portion while the margin 42 has an outline conforming to the arm pit end of the under sleeve portion of the pattern to be laid out. In the n'iargin 41 are formed a plurality of notches 41 numbered 34 to 44 while near the breast line margin is a single notch 41", a perforation 41 being provided in the template a short distance from the notches 41*. In the margin 42 where it meets the margin 41. is a plurality of notches 42 (numbered 34 to 44) while below the same is a single notch 42 The template 39 has side margins 43 and 44, for the front and rear seams of the sleeve and in each of said margins is a notch 43- and 44 respectively arranged on the breast line before mentioned.

Assume that the pattern to be made is a size 36. A pattern sheet 45 (see Fig. 4) is laid upon the work table and a base or ineridian line 46 is drawn thereupon. The template 10 is placed with its base edge 16 on the base line 46 on the pattern sheet. With aid of a pencil, points 47 are inscribed on the pattern sheet by marking through the notches and perforations 36 of the notches and perforations 12 -13 14 and 17 respectively. The template is then shifted about s that the edges 12-1314-15 and 17 may be used as guides to draw the lines 48 as shown in Fig. 4. The template 11 is next used. The edge 20 is brought into position on the base line 46 of the pattern sheet with the upper left hand corner (bearing the letter A) in register with the left hand point 47 on the base line 46 of the pattern sheet. iththe edge 18 as a guide the line 49 is drawn. The template is shifted to the right until its upper right hand corner (bearing the letter B) registers with the point 47 at the right hand end of the base line and a line 50 is drawn on the pattern sheet with the edge 19 as a'guide. Thus a pattern for the back of a coat, size 36 is drawn upon the pattern sheet. The pattern sheet is next out about the pattern line thus drawn, allowance being made for the seams.

In laying out a coat front, a pattern sheet- 51 is laid upon a table and a base line 52 is drawn upon the same; The template 22 is placed upon the sheet with its base line or edge 29 on the base line on the pattern sheet and a point 52 made on said line 52 by marking with a pencil in the notch 29", and a similar mark is made through the number 36 notches and holes of the notches 25 and 28 and 27 after which the template is shifted so as to be used as guides for drawing lines between said points corresponding to the edges 252627 and 28 of the template.

The template 23 is neXt used by placing its top edge 32 along the base line 52, the

36 notch of the notches 32 being brought into register with the point 52 previously made on the base line through the notch 29. This positions the template. Marks are pointed off on the pattern sheet through the 36 notches of the group of notches 32 and 35 and marks are pointed off on the pattern sheet through the holes 33 (for the buttons and. button holes) and through the holes 35"35 for the'pockets) The pattern lines are then drawn about the edges of the template.

After the template is removed from the pattern sheet, the template 24 is positioned on the pattern sheet with the notch 36 in register with the mark made through the 36 notch of the group of notches 35 and with the notch 37 in register with the mark made through the notch 34. This positions said template and lines are drawn about the edges thereof. The template 24 is now turned over with thenotches 36 still in the same position and another line is drawn along said edge to provide the gore lines under the arms as shown in Fig. 5. The

skirt part 55 of the pattern may be made of any desired length.

lit)

A line is drawn down on a pattern sheet 56 and the base line &0 of the template 38 is placed thereon. Marks are made on the pattern sheet through the 36 notches of the groups of notches ll and 42* when a line is drawn along the edge 41 from the base 40 to the 36 notch of the group 41 after which the template is shifted so that the top part of the template may be used in drawing a line 55 connecting the two marks on the pattern sheet made as before described. The template 39 is then placed in position with the notches Lid 14 on the line 55 with the notch 4:3 coinciding with that point formed where the line drawn about the edge 41 of the template intersects the line 55 after which a line 57 is drawn upon the pattern sheet with the edge 43 of the template 39 as a guide. The template is shifted to the right until its upper right hand corner registers with the mark made on the pattern sheet through the 36 notch of the notches 42 with the notches 43-44E still on the base line when a line 58 is drawn about the edge 44 of the template. This produces the pattern for the top sleeve part.

To make the pattern for the under sleeve part, a base line 59 is drawn on a pattern sheet 60 (see Fig. 7 The base line of the template 38 is placed on the line 59 and a mark is inscribed on the pattern sheet through the 36 notch of the group of notches 42 and a line 61 is drawn about the edge 42 stopping at the-base line 59. The upper left hand corner of the template 39 is placed at the meeting of the base line and the line drawn about the edge 42 with the notches 43 on the base line 59 after which the edge 43 is used as a guide for drawing a line 62 which represents the inseam of the under sleeve part. The template 39 is shifted along the line 59 toward the right with the notches 43 l4 still on the base line until the upper right hand corner meets the mark made through the 36 notch of the notches 42 after which a line 63 is drawn using the edge 44 as a guide. This completes the laying out of the pattern upon the pattern sheet which may be cut out to form, allowance being made for the seams as is usual.

It is apparent that with the aid of our im proved template parts, any person may lay out a pattern of any of the standard sizes.

We claim as our invention A master pattern comprising a plurality of template parts consisting of top and bottom parts for a coat back, shoulder, body and back seam parts for a coat front and top end and seam outline parts for a coat sleeve, said top and bottom back parts and shoulder and body front parts being laid out from a common base line adapting them for registration with a line to be drawn on a pattern sheet representing the chest measure, each of the template parts having one or more outline edges of the standard outline of a complete pattern to be made, some of said template parts having corresponding scale marks in the margins thereof graded according to different sizes of waist measure,

said scale marks providing for the conven-e ient marking off of points on the pattern sheet in positions correlated to the base line and corresponding toithe outline of said template parts, and the said edges of the template parts when positioned on the marked ofi' points on the pattern sheet providing a guide for the drawing of pattern lines upon said pattern sheet.

In testimony that we claim the foregoing as our invention, we affix our signatures this 28th day of March, A. D. 1924.

SAMUEL ABRAMS. JOSEPH NEFF.

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