US1385586A - Dress-pattern-drafting templet - Google Patents

Description

M. RICHARDS.

DRESS PATTERN DRAFTING TEMPLET.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. II. I920.

1,385,586. Patented July 26, 1921.

2 SHEETS-SHEET I .v

M. RICHARDS.

DRESS PATTERN DRAFTING TEMPLET.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. H, 1920.

1,385,586. Patented July 26, 1921.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

PTATENT, OFFICE.

MARION RICHARDS, F SYDNEY, NEW SOUTH WALES,'AUSTRALIA.

DRESS-PATTERN-DRAFTING- TEMPLET.

specification of Letters Patent. Patented July 26-, 1921'.

Application filed February 11, 1920. Serial No. 357,946.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, MARION Riormnns, subject of the King of Great Britam and Ireland, residing at Sydney, New South ales, have invented new and useful Improvements in Dress Pattern Drafting Templets, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to templet-s for drafting dress patterns and consists n certain improvements hereinafter part1cularized in such templets of the type in wh1ch a card conforming in general outline to the shape of the dress part so that its edges will form straight and curved rulers, is marked and perforated according to a predetermined system of body measurement to enable the user, by selecting the marks and perforations appropriateto the body measurements, to produce a pattern sheet for garments. v I

A separate templet for each part of the dress is provided, said templets being usable together as a systemto enable the drafting of patternsfor'the several dress partsrequired.

' In the accompanying drawings, Figure '1 is a plan view of the half-back templet; Fig. 2 is. a plan-viewof the half-front templet; Fig; 3 is a plan View of the sleeve templet containing onthe field port on 015 11 a subsidiary system of linesand perforations constituting a templetfor collar and cuff patterns; Fig.4 is a plan view of a skirt templet bearing perforations and markings 'for the back and front sections ofthe skirt pattern; and Fig. 5 is a plan view of a rule and templet for {striking and perforating shapes for ornamentalfinishes, such for instance as fanciful collar and re'vere'shapes.

The half-back templet, Fig. 1, is punched with a series of vertically disposed holes 100 at the top center'back corner 101,another series of holes 102 atthe neck corner 103,

two series of angularly disposed holes 104 and 105 (for narrow and wide shoulder measurements respectively) d1rected inward from the topcorner 106 of the arm'scye; a Y nearly horizontal series of holes 107 from an intermediate point in the arm scye curve 108; another series of horizontally disposed "holes 109 from the top point 110 ofthe under arm curve'111, and in the lower part of the templet, a checker-boardseries of holes 112, .each such'hole belng located on the crossing point of lines drawn from the holes urement taken by tape measure of the per-v son to be fitted. Where the templet is to be used for a blouse or shirt waist, or sports coat, the center back line is the edge line 114 of the templet, but when a tight fitting dress or bodice is required, the line 115 drawn through the series of holes 100 and 113 marks the position of the center back. In

the former case, the pattern sheet is doubled and the fold set in alinement with the-line 114, but obviously a single half-pattern sheet could be used as in the ordinary method and the material doubled on the'line 114'wh'en about to be cut from the pattern'created from the templet.

l/Vith theobject of obtaining maximum simplicity in makinga templet to 'fit a certa n body back, only two measurements are called for; the first is the bust measurement (which forpurpose of explanation is here assumed as 36 inches), and the second is the under arm measurement (assumed here to be 8 inches). The holes on the lines 100, 102,

103, 104 (01 105 in the case of 'a wide shoulder) 107, and 109 are all figured to the bust measurements, while the under arm measurements are figured" on the horizontal course of holes 112,113.

By way of illustration of: the manner of *using thischart, the dotted line 116 through the perforations is shown indicating the shape of the pattern obtained in the case where the bust measurement is taken as 36 inches,

for a wide shoulder and the underarm length at '8 inches, the center back being on the line 114 or on the line 115 according "as a loose back'or a tight fitting back is called for. p

As in the case of the back, so in the case of the front, all the pattern corner positions are determined by the punch marks arranged according to a system of bust and under-arm measurements only,'-with the addition of the waist measurement for tight fitting garments. The front line of holes 120-is angularly positioned in relation to the front edge 121 of the templet, and the'angular portion of the templet contained between the line of holes and the edge 121 serves to shape the revere, the collar fold of the revere being determined by a line drawn optionally from 36 on the line of holes 122, through one of the holes on the line of holes 120, below the figured series of holes A. The line of holes 122 at the neck point is curved. There are two lines of holes 123-124 corresponding respectively with the holes 104 105, Fig. 1, relating to the top corner 106 of the arm scye. The templet also carries an angularly disposed line of'holes 125 at the arm scye and a series of holes 126 at the top of the under arm seam, and at the waist a checker-board system of holes 127 figured for under arm length. The front line of holes 120 is divided below the bust to form two angularly disposed series of holes 128 and 129 nearthe waist line. These holes are respectively figured for under-arm lengths. The points and bases of the darts 130131 are in fixed position on the templet, and the prick marks on the pattern sheet indicating these darts serve as centers, so that the necessary dart widths at the waist line may be determined by measurement in order to leave the waist length of the pattern equal to the measured waist dimensions when the darts are closed. An inner series of center front holes 129 is used in making a pattern for a tight fitting garment while an outer series of holes 128 on the line 120 is used in drafting loose fitting garments.

For the purpose of illustration, an exemplary pattern line 132 (dotted) is drawn corre-' sponding with the exemplary pattern line 116 in Fig. 1, the same body measurements being assumed. It will be seen that all the pattern upper points are determined by the hole positions at the respective points of the templet marked according to bust measurements, while the points at the foot of the pattern are marked through the holes figured according to under-arm'measurement (8) in the same manner as the lower parts of the In Figs. 1 and 2 a' second dotted'line is shown exemplary of the shapeof a pattern cut from the templet for a figure measured 44 inches at the bust, and 9%inches underarm length.

The pattern points having been determined on the pattern sheet by pricking through the marked holes in the templet, the

pattern edge lines joining these points are ruled using the edges of the templet as a guide, the gage arrows 162 and 163 being always located at the point marked on the pattern sheet in the line of holes contiguous to said arrows on the templet.

Similarly, it is to be observed that the arrows 164 and 165 (Fig. 2) areto be located in like manner on the pattern points 122 and 125 for the purpose of procuring the correct curve shape in the pattern in the neighborhood of said points,

V to each measurement.

may be.

Referring to Fig. 3, the body measurements for the sleeve are (1) around the top of the arm, (2) around the hand and (3) the inner length of the sleeve. The curve at the arm top will necessarily vary according Curves for different measurements are indicated by the'lines L, and by the outer edge line 133. There is a line of holes 134at one end of the curve 133 another line of holes 135 at the other end 0 the curve 133, and also an intermediate line of holes 136. Corresponding with the holes 136, arrow marks 137 are placed on the edge 133. In ruling the curves, after pricking through the appropriate holes 135, 136 and 134, the curve 133 is used, and in every case the arrow indicator is placed upon the pricked mark 16, 15, 14, 13 (136) as the case the arm top is thus obtained. At the lower part of the templet, the corresponding line of holes 138, 139, is arranged checker-board fashion and figured according to arm top measurements previously provided. In the vertical order these punchings are figured according to arm length, the scale for which is shown at 140-140. The wrist dart 141 terminates at a fixed hole 142 and ismade of such Width at the foot as will leave the balance of the measurement on the line 143 equal to the round hand'measurement.

The subsidiary templet contained inFig. 3 includes alternative groupings of holes for roll or like collars, for band collars, and for band cuflt's. In all cases 144 is the center fold line, the neck measurement or the wrist measurement, as the case may be,

being taken on the line of'holes 145, and the outer edge shape determined, forcollars by the marked holes 146, 147, or 148, as the case may be. p

Referring to Fig. 4, the skirt front points are located on theinner portion which is marked O in the left hand corners, while the skirt back. points are located on the outer portion which is marked PP l in the left hand corners. The templet carries two lines of holes 150 and 151, figured respectively for high and normal waistmeasurements, and a line of edge markings 152 on the lower curved edge 153. In charting a skirt pattern for a normal waist, the waist measurement'is pricked off on theline of holes 151, and the hip line measurement on the line 153. The left hand edge 154 of the templet and the neighboring line 155, being fixed lines, determine the center of the fold of the material which will lie respectively at the center back andat the center front of the garment. The side seam lines are determined by ruling along the hip curve 156 which constitutes the right side edge of the templet and continuing in a straight line from the termination of the line 156 downward to the required length of the skirt, the

Approximately correct curve for terminations of the straight extension line being positioned accordin to the width of the skirt at the hem. or high waisted skirts, it is necessary to use the upper course of marked holes 150 instead of the lower course of marked holes 151, the pattern being pricked through the hole in either case which corresponds to the waist measurement.

The templet' Fig. 5 is a convenient assembly of curves forming ruling edges, two of which are straight, the long straight edge 160, and one of the curved edges 161 being marked ofl? in 55 inch measurements. This combination curve is used for plotting shapes for collars, revers, and other ornamental dress parts.

What I claim as my invention and desire to secure .by Letters Patent is A templet for laying off waist patterns, comprising a front chart and a back chart, each having a substantially horizontal row of perforations below the arm scye, an angularly disposed row of perforations intermediate the arm scye, a plurality of anguof the chart, all of said rows of perforations being graduated to indicate bust measurements, each of said charts also having a plurality of rows of perforations disposed in approximately parallel relation with the lower edge of the chart and a row of perforations in alinement with the said rows and with the angularly disposed edge row, the perforations of said rows being graduated to indicate arm measurements and said front chart having an additional row of perforations diverging from said angularly disposed edge ro-w below the bust and forming with said edge row two angularly disposed rows of perforations near the waist line.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

' MARION RICHARDS.

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