US187587A - Improvement in pattern-charts for cutting garments - Google Patents

Description

2 Sheets-Sheet 1'. LUCY J. BIXBY. PATTERN-CHARTS FOR CUTTING GARMENTS. I ..Nq.187,-587, Patented Feb. 20, 18.77.

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LUCY J. BIXBY, OF BINGHAM'ION, NEW YORK.

IMPROVEMENT IN PATTERN-CHARTS FOR CUTTING GARMENTS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 587,537, dated February 20, 1877 application filed January 12, 1s77.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, LUCY J. BIXBY, of Binghamton, in the county of Broome, State of New York, have invented a new and usefnl Improvement in the Art of Cutting and Fitting Ladies, Misses, and Childrens Wearing Apparel by the use of certain formed mechanical appliances herein designated, which improvement secures accuracy in fitting and rapidity in execution,.the method of which is set forth in the following specifica tion, reference being had to the accompanying drawings. V

The object of myinvention is to secure accurate and perfect fitting apparel from measurement of persons by the use of patterngnides A, B, G, D, E, and F. The guidepattern A, G, and D, with index-figures thereon, perforated for checking, are used in combination with guide-rule B, guide-dart E, and guide-form F, for determining the size and form required, as follows:

Referring to the drawings, A, Figure 1, represents pattern-chart for obtaining the various sizes; B, Fig. 2, a guide-rule; G and D, Figs. 3 and 4, charts for getting arm sizes; E, Fig. 5, pattern for getting the darts; and F, Fig. 6, for getting the back forms.

Suppose size of person be thirty inches close under the arms over the bust, twenty-one inches tight around the waist, and seven inches from under arm to bottom of waist. I first draw a line one inch from the edge of the cloth, callingit the hem-line. Now 1 place the straight edge of guide-pattern A even with the hem-line, and dot through perforation at index A, and I mark again at index D, again at figure 26, index F, and again at 26, index H. Now I take guide-rule B, place index J to dot A, and draw a line along the curved edge of rule B to dot I, for neck. I now place index J to dot D, draw a line to dot 26 on index F for the shoulder, and now place rule B one inch inside of the shoulder-line and draw a New I take arm guide 0, place 26 on dot 26, index F, keeping curved side of the guide even with dot 26, index H, and draw a line round to 26, index K, on armguide 0. Now I place the blunt end of guiderule B under arm at dot 26, index K, holding it perpendicular, and dot at seven inches for length of waist. I now measure twelve and one-half inches from dot A, down front hemline, and dot for length of waist in front; then draw a line from front waist-line dot to the waist-line under the arm dot, continuing threeinches beyond for size of waist, as first taken; then measure two inches from front waist dot for first dart; again, seven and onehalfinches from dot A down front henrline and dot; now measure one and one-half inch from dot 26, index K, under the arm and dot; now draw aline from dot made on front hem-line to dot made under the arm for top of darts. Now I make a dot three and one-half inches from hem-line, again at seven inches for top of darts; then place the blunt point of guidedart E on dot made for first dart, holding it perpendicular, with left edge even with dot made two inches from waist dot, and draw a line on both sides of guide-dart down to the Waist-line. I now measure one inch on waistline from the first dart, place left edge of guidedart E even with dot, with point on dot made for second dart, and draw a line down both sides, as done for first dart; now measure four inches from the right line of second dart along the waist-line and dot for the size of the waist; now place the sharp point of rule B on dot 26, index K, holding rule so that the inside of curved edge rests on the dot made for the size of the waist, and then draw a line from one dot to the other ior inside seam, allowing one inch outside for the scam.

For the skirt of basque in front, continue the hem-line down eight inches below the waistline, and six inches under the arm-seam below the waist-line, sloping outward three inches. Then I place the points of guide-dart E at the end of both the front line and under arm-seam, and draw a line over either curved edge of guide-dart E, making the bottom of the skirt. I continue with the first and second darts by using the sharp end 2 of the guidedart E, holding the point at the lower line of basque, allowing the guide-dart to rest inside or on the lines made for the darts at waist-line.

For. cutting the back of garments, I draw a line fifteen inches down one and 'one halt' inch from edge of the cloth at the top, and three inches at the bottom for the back-seam then place the straight edge of guide A even with and at the top of the line drawn for backseain; then make a dot at index E; again at figure 26, index G; again at figure 26, index I.

Now I place index J, rule B, to dot E, resting the outer edge of rule on dot 26, index G, and draw a line from dot to dot for the shoulderline; now move the rule evenly down one inch and draw a line for shoulder-seam. place guide G, index 5, at dot 26, index I, touching 26, index G, and draw a line from dot 26, index Gr, around to and one-half inch past figure 5, and dot; now place rule at dot 26, index I, and measure down seven inches and dot for bottom of the waist; now place blunt end 1 of guiderule B at the fifteen-inch dot, keeping it even with the seven-inch dot, draw a line three and one-half inches and dot; now place point of guide-rule B at the arm-dot one-half inch from figure 5, with back of rule touching the three-and-one-half-inch dot on the waist-line, and draw a line from dotto dot, allowing one inch for side-seam.

For basques I proceed the same as in cutting the backs and fronts of other garments to the waist-line, and, in addition thereto, I make use of guide-form F, as follows: Place base or straight edge of guide-form F on the waist-line one and one-half inch from backseam on the waist-line, with its concave edge one inch above figure 26, index I; then dot and draw a line from arm-line to waistline; now take guide-rule B; place the end 1 at the dot 15 at the bottom and back of waist; draw a line nine inches below waistline, sloping one I now' and one-halfinch outward for back-seam ofskirt of the basque. Now place the blunt end 1 of guide-rule Bat the bottom of back skirt-seam and dot at four inches; now place first end of rule B at the one-and-one-half-inch dot on waist-line, touchingthe four'inch dot seven and one-half inches below the waist-line. and draw a line down; now place point of guide-rule B at the nine-inch dot, and draw a line to the seven-and-one half-inch dot, forming the bottom of basque place the first end of rule B again at the one-and-one-half-inch dot, measure down seven and one-half inches, sloping with the back, and dot for side form of basque; now measure to the right four and one-half inches and dot; then place the first end of guiderule B at the dot inside of the waist, resting on four-and-one-half'inch dot, and draw a line six inches; allow one inch for a seam; now place index J, guide-rule B, at six-inch line, drawn for under arm-seam for skirt of basque, and draw line to seven-and-one-half inch dot for bottom of basque.

Having now fully described my invention,

what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

The series of pattern-guides A, B, O, D, E, andF, constructed as described and shown, and provided with the scales and letters thereon, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

' LUCY J. BIXBY. Witnesses:

R. A. COLBY, JENNIE GRIMES.

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