US1663895A - Garment-pattern-drafting square - Google Patents

Description

March 27, 1928.. 1,663,895

C. H. WOLFE ET AL GARMENTA PATTERN DRAFTING SQUARE Filed March 15. 1924 n 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 -SLEEl/E.

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Patented Mar. 27,1928.

UNITED STATES I igasas PATENT oEFlcE.

CHARLES H. WOLFE AND ETHEL E. WOLFE, OF LOS ANGLES, CALIFORNIA.

GARMENT-PATTERN-DRAFTING SQUARE.

Application'filed March 13, 1924. Serial No. 698,970.

Our invention relates to a garment pattern drafting square, and has for itspr1nc1pal objects the provision of a relatively simple and practical implement in the nat-ure of asquare that may be advantageously used for the drafting of patterns used in the production of ladies, childrens, "mens and boys garments; and, further, izo-provide an implement of the character referred to that Will be effective in saving much time and labor onvv the part of the user in drafting patterns for garments and the like. f

lVith the foregoing and other lobject-s in vievv, our invention consists in the features of construction and combination and arrange-v With a portion of the longer leg or armY thereof broken away;

Figure 3 is a top plan view of the rever-se side of the square with a portion offthe longer leg or arm thereof broken away. Fig. 4 is a plan viewof a piece of goods Wit-li our improved pattern drafting` square in position thereon for laying, out the-pat-V tern of a partof a Waist and the'square being shown in positionY so as to obtain certainv known measurements for the front neck, the back neck and the arm hole.A K'

Fig. 5 is a plan' view of a pieceV of goods With the pattern drafting'-squarepositioned thereon for laying out o'rdra'fting the pat tern of a two-,piece sleeve,l

. Fig. 6 isa'plan *View of a piece ofgoods With the pattern draftingsquare positioned. thereon for Athe Vpurpose of-laying Outland drafting thfe ofia skirt.

Referring by numeralsto the'acco'mpanying` drawings, vvhich illustrate a practical embodiment of our invention, 10 designatesy the body `of the implement which mayibe formed of any suitable materiahsuch -as Wood, metal, vCelluloid or heavy cardboard, said body comprising a relatively long legvor arm 11' and a, shorter arm or' leg 12. The

external corner X between the legs of the square -serves as a starting point for. all

measurements or for the readings of all of,

pattern for the; upper portion"V the scales that appear the facesy of the.

scale body except one. lf desired, a small curved brace such as 13 may bearranged across the inner corner of the square.

Appearing on the upper face of the longer leg 11 is a lineallmeasurement scale 14 that is divided so as toprovide inch graduations, the latter beingdivided into halves, quarters and eighths. For all practical purposes, rvWe prefer to make the longerleg 11 twenty-'four inches in length. i

Appearing on the face ofthe shorter leg 12 of the square and extendingfrom a point near the end of the longer leg 11 toward the outer end of said leg 12 is a series of equally spaced marks' thatform a scale 15. and located on the'surface of leg 12 adjacent-to this scale are the words Back neck. and Scale'Nq 1.A The marks of this scale are numbered consecutively and read from left' to right 22 to,52,inclusive, and said scale is used for laying out the back neck portion of a garment pattern.

vportion of the shorter arm 12-of the scalev is a series of equally spaced marks that form a. scale 16 and appe'aring'on the face of theA scale body adjacent thereto are the'vvordsV Front neck and Scale-No. 2. .'Ihegrad-Y nations of this scaleiaremarked With the numerals from 22 to 52, inclusive, the same reading from right to left, and said' scale is for the -purpose yof ascertaining ftheV correctY measurements forlayingI off the front neck portion of agarmentpattern.

Appearing on` the reverse face of the longerV leg 11'of the' implement and near the left hand end thereof A`is a series of graduated marks thatformy a graduated scale 17, and the graduations`l thereof are sequentially numbered from left 'to-.right'34 to 46,"inclu-S 'sive.' Appearingon the face ofthe scale body adjacent'tothis. particular scaleare thel y Words Skirt and trousers'land also Scale No.4, .this'scale beingfor-v the purpose of laying off the proper measurements ofthe hip, line for the'pattern'of a skirt or trousers.

' AppearingA on thereverse face ofthe longer l.leg v11.immediately tothev rightof the-scale 17 :is a series of graduated marksV thatfform a scale 18, said-marks' being se* quentiallfy `numbered from left 4to right from` 28 to 50, inclusive. Appearing on the face ofthe implement adjacent to this last mentioned scalevr are the Words Arm holel and Scale No. 3, and said scale is used in laying 0E the lines and measurement ofthe arm hole of a garment pattern.

Appearing on the reverse face of the leg 11 to the right of scale 18 is a series of graduated marks that form a scale 19, and said marks are sequentially numberedV left to right from 28 to 52, inclusive. Appearing on the surface of the implement adjacent to this scale 19, which is for the purpose of laying off the skirt length of a garment pattern are the words Skirt and Scale No. 5. The last mark of scale 19, or theymark numbered 52, terminates at a point approximately twelve and one-half inches from the corner X, and. the remaining right hand portion ofthe upperlsurface of leg 11y is provided with a lineal measurement scale graduated to inches, halves, quarters and eighths thereof, and numbered from 13 to 24, reading from left to right. Y

Appearing on the reverse surface Vof shorter leg 12 and a short distance to the left of the corner X is a series of graduated marks forming a scale 20, and the marks are numbered from 28 to 50, inclusive, and read from right to left. Appearing on the surface of the square adjacent to this scale 20 are-the words Sleeve and Scale No. 7. This scale is for the purpose of laying off the measurements and outline of the pattern for the under portion of a sleeve.

Appearing on the reverse face of shorter leg 12 to the left of the scale QOis a series of equally spaced marks to form ascale 21,V

said marks being :numbered from 28 to 51, inclusive, and reading from right to left.

This particular scale is used for the purposey of laying olf the measurements and outline of the pattern for the top or upper portions of a garment sleeve, and appearing onV the face ofthe scale adjacent to said scale are the words Sleeve and Scale No. 6.

Our improved pattern drafting square is particularly designed for drafting patterns for ready-made garments, that is, garments which are made in quantities and incertain sizes, as demanded by the trade, and the use of the square and the numbered scales thereon effect the saving of much time and labor inthe' laying oif of patterns, andthe user' of thefsquare is not subjected Ato the necessity of performing any mathematical' computations after ascertaining the size o f the garment or garments for which a pattern isk drafted. For instance,` if a pattern is to be drafted for a garment which is designated in' trade as a 38, the user of the square `after ,drawing base lines on the sheet from which the pattern is to be prepared places the square in proper position relative .to said base lines, with the point X at the starting point, and then marksoif on the upright or vertical base line a point coincident with the line on the back neck scale No. 1 that is marked 38 and the distance from the point X to the mark 38 of the back neckV scale i scale 16, and the distance from the end Z of the short leg 10 to this last mentioned mark defines the front neck length. The square is now turned over and the point XV properly positioned on the pattern sheet and a point 'is laid off directly opposite the line marked 38 on the arm hole scale No. 3,'thus giving the proper point from which the arm hole outlines may be laid oli. Vith the corner Xproperly positioned 'a point is now laid ot directly opposite the mark 38 on scale No. V4c, thus providing a guide- V for outlining the hip line of a'skirt or pair of' trousers. With corner X properly positioned onY the pattern sheet, a point is laid off directly opposite line y38 on scale No. 5, thus giving the'skirt width. In laying off certain patterns, for instance, the yoke of a skirt, the scales a and 5 are used'in conjunction with each other. The position of the square is now, shifted and withV the corner X properly positioned on the pattern sheet a point is laid off directly opposite line 38 in scale 6to give the widthfor the top member of a two-piece sleeve. point is now laid off on the pattern sheetA directly opposite the line 38 on scale No. f7, thereby .giving the width ofthe under member of the two-piece sleeve.

drafting square itis only necessary'to know Y theI size of the garment vfor which the patternis to be drafted and then by properly* placing the'square on the: pattern sheet' and laying'oif points directly opposite the given number appearing'in each scale, the essential anddesirable points arefquickly and accurately laid off to serve as guides in draft-k ing or laying-out lthe outlines of the different portions of the pattern.

- In l `igs.v 4, 5 .and 6, we improved pattern drafting square in position on a pattern sheetingdor piece'ofgoods for the purposeof' drafting the pattern for a waist, a two-piece sleeve and the upper "portion of a skirt.` ObviouslyV wherea pathave vshown our for the side of the neck opening and the beginning of the shoulder seam.

Without changing the position of the square, the necessary points for laying oif the front neck line may be ascertained by means of scale N o. 2, the graduated marks of which bear the proper numbers for giving the front neck measurements.

After the back neck and front neck lines have been laid oft', the square is shifted inwardly on the pattern sheet or goods with the point X in alignment with the rear edge of the outline ofthe 'arm hole and the known measurement for the arm hole opening is noted on scale No. 3, and the point on the pattern sheet or goods adjacent to this mark gives the point to which the depth of the arm hole opening should be made.

To lay off the width of the two portions of a two-part sleeve, the square is positioned as illust-rated in Fig. 5 with the point X adjacent to the point where the two sections' of materials are to be joined by the inner seam and the known measurement for the width of the inner or under part of the sleeve is noted on scale No. 7, thereby providing a guide for laying off the outline of said inner or under part and in like manner thev known measurement for the width of the outer or upper part of the sleeve is noted on scale No. 6, and this point marked on the pattern sheet or pattern to serve as a guide for the cutting of the pattern or sleeve section.

To lay out thepattern of the upper portion of a skirt, the square is positioned as illustrated in Fig. 6, square No. 4 being utilized for obtaining the proper point to lay off the waist linev ror upper edge of the skirt and square No. 5 for obtaining the line of the seam between the two parts of the upper portion of the skirt. v

It will be noted that the graduated marks of all of the scales on both arms or legs of the square terminate at the outer edges of said arms or legs and that all of said graduated scales are vreadable from the outer corner or point X, with the exception of the front neck scale 16 which latter is readable from the end Z of arm 10. By virtue of these arrangements, the scale is very readily manipulated while laying off measurements and the graduated or numbered lines of the various scales are easily and quickly read by reason of the fact that they terminate at the outer edges ofthe arms of the square.

A garment pattern* drafting square of our improved construction is comparatively simple, may be easily and cheaply produced, saves time, labor and calculations on the part of the user and is very effective in performing its intended functions.

The construction of the pattern drafting square as herein shown and described may be varied in minor details without departing from the spirit of our invention, the scope of which is set forth in the appended claim.

lVe claim as our invention:

A garment pattern drafting square comprising a pair of integrally connected straight edge members disposed `at right angles to each other, one of which members is longer than the other, a graduated numbered vback neck scale arranged on the shorter 011e of the straight edge members adjacent to the outer corner formed at'the joint between said members, the numbers of said graduated back neck scale reading from left to right, a numbered graduated front neck scale arranged on the same side of the short straight edge member with said back neck scale and'arranged between the latter and the outer end of the short straight edge member the numbers of said front neck scale reading in progression from right to left, the graduated lines of said back neck and front neck scales terminate at the outer edge of the short straight edge member, the reverse face ofthe short straight edge member being provided with graduated numbered top` t,sleeve scale members.

In testimony whereof we affix our signatures.

CHARLES H. WOLFE. v ETHEL E. WOLFE;

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