US179046A - Improvement in methods and apparatus for laying out coat-patterns - Google Patents

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4Sheets-Sheet1.. J'. H. NICHOLS.

METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR LAYINGOUT-COAT PATTERNS.- No.179,4:6. "Patented June 20,1876.

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METHOD AND APPARATUS'FQR LAYING OUT com PATTERNS. No.1'79.046.- Patented June 20,1876.

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J. H. N I CH O L S. METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR. LAYING OUT COAT PATTERNS.

No. 179,046. Patented June 20, 1876.

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J. H. NICHOLS. I I METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR LAYING OUT COAT PATTERNS.

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JAMES NICHOLS, on BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

IMPROVEMENT IN METHODS AND APPARATUS FORLAYING OUT COAT-PATTERNS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 179,046, dated June 20, 1876; application filed March 25, m6.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, JAMES H. NroHoLs, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and valuable Improvement in Tailors Squares and Diagrams; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the construction and operation of the same, reference being had to the annexed drawings, making a part of this specification, and to the letters and figures of reference marked thereon.

Figure 1 of the drawings is a representation of front elevation of my tailors square, and

Fig. 2 is an edge view of the same. Fig. 3 is a transverse vertical section of, my square, and Fig. 4 is detachable strip for the same. Figs. 5, 6, and 7 are diagrams for a frock-coat; and Figs. 8 and 9 are diagrams for a sackcoat. r V

This invention has relation to a new and improved method or system of laying out coats for cutting, whereby thedrafting of the different sizes can be executed with great facility; at the same time greater accuracy is obtained in measurements and fitting, as will be hereinafter explained.

In the annexed drawings, Figs. 1, 2, and 3, I have represented a tailors square having the two limbs a and b at rightangles to each other, marked off in inches and fractions of inches, in the usual wellknown manner, designating a scale-strip, which is removable, and held in place by means of spring-fingers d. I employ a number of these scale-strips, differently graduated, according to the different sizes of coats to be cut, and I prefer to have the scale-strips of one equal length, so that any one of them will extend from the shoulders c to the edge of the limb a of the square, as shown in the drawing, Figs. 1, 2, and

The scale-strips represent, by certain marks on them, different sizes of coats, varying by breast-measure from twenty-six inches to fortyeight inches. For example, the scale-strip shown in Fig. 1 represents the largest breastmeasure, and is numbered 48 on one side, and graduated accordingly. The figure 2 mark on the scale-strip represents one-fourth of the actual breast-measure when coats are out sixths, sevenths, eighths,tenths, and so on l to sixty-fourths.

The figure-marks on the scale-strips which are below the figure 2, indicating breast-measure, represent three sizes or graduations nec essary to obtain the requisite depth and width of the garment. This method of graduating the scale-strip, so far as described, applies to all of the strips alike. For a 48 scale-strip the variations in sizes will be about one inch and an eighth. For a 26 scale the sizes will represent about a half-inch.

It is obvious that these sizes will vary on the different scales according to the size of the coat to be out.

The measure is taken with a tape-line in the usual well-known manner. Having taken the measure, I select a scale-strip corresponding to the breast-measure, which strip is fixed in the square, as I have above described. I then proceed to draft as follows, reference being had to the annexed diagrams, numbered Figs. 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9.

Figs. 5, 6, and 7 are diagrams for a frockcoat for the back. From 1 to 2 is and 3 sizes; from 1 to 3, natural waist; from 1 to 4, full length of waist; from 4 to 5, between 8th and 10th from 3 to 6, between 8th and 10th,

width of back. From 2 to 7 is and 2 to 14 is less of the breast-measure. Place square at 1, line 0, ten inches at 1, 11 inches at P, and get lines A and H; l to 12, between 7th and 8th. 9 to 10 is 5 10.to 11 is 3 9 to 8 is 12 to 13 is of the breast-measure. Cut out back, and reverse lineAand base to draft the fore part. Square base and center line. 3 to 2 is g. 2 to-l is 3 to 10 is -10 to 11 is 10 to 21, less 5 11 to 22 is 3 to 121s and 3 sizes. 12 t0'13 is less g. 13 to 14 is Place line A on reverse side of back on line A of fore part, to form shoulder. 15 to 16'is 17 to 18 is 5- Place square at line B, 4% inches at 16, 6 inches at 2,.and form neck. 3 to 19 is length of back from 2 to 4. 19 to 20 is Place square at 1% inches, andangleby 11, and

back on line K, putting W of Fig. 5 at W,

Fig. 6, and form side body, as represented on draft. 6 t 7 is 8 to 9 is For the sleeve: From 1 to 2 is From 1 to 3 is 1-. From 2 to 5 is From 3 to 7 is], and 3 sizes. From 13 to 14 1s From 8 to9 is From 8 to is and 3 sizes. From 2 to 6 is Place square at 1; inches, at 10 with 8 inches. 12 on line A, and get line B and length of sleeve.

Figs. 8 and 9 are diagrams for a sack-coat. For the back, draw line C. From 11 to 10 is in atwaist. From 1 to 12 is g and 3 sizes. Square base and waist lines by line I), also line 1 to 2; 1 to 2, between 7th and 8th. 2 to 3 is 12 to 6 is half, less Place 10 on square at 1, l1 atG, and get line A.

' More square from 2 to 5 to get line F. 4 to Cut out back and re- 14 is 5 to 4 is verse lines A, base and waist. 10 to 7 is 6 inches. 9 to 8 is 6 inches, for width of back.

For the fore part, draw a line, A, on the cloth; place point of square at 1; carry out with the left hand inches at line H to get base-line.

Fromlto2is%. 2to3is%. 3t05 isand two sizes. 3 to 6 is 6 t0 7 is 3 to 8 is %and 3 sizes. 8 to 9 is less 9 to 10 is 6 to 4. is a, less 7 to 11 is Square line D by base line up and down. Place back on line D, W at W, and form side body. 12 to 13 is 14 to 15 is 1 to 16 is length of back, from base-line to 16. 16 to 17 is Put reverse line A of back on line A of fore part, and form shoulder. 18 to 19 is Put 4% inches on square at 19 and .6 inches at 2, and form neck; mark length of waist on line D. Put 8 on square at L on line D; carry in 1 and 1% inch for spring-skirt. 20 to 21 is What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

, The method herein described of laying out coats for cutting, by. means of a" recessed square provided with interchangeable scalestrips, graduated in the manner as described.

In testimony that I claim the above I have hereunto subscribed my name in the presence of two witnesses.

1 JAMES H. NICHOLS. Witnesses:

JOHN F. AGKER,J1.,

O. '11. MOEWEN.

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