US761901A - Pattern-chart. - Google Patents

Description

PATENTED JUNE 7, 1904l M E. NORTHEN. PATTERN CHART. APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 2, 1903.

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No. 761,901. PATENTED JUNE 7,1904'.A M. ENURTEEN. PATTERN CHART. APPLIOATIQN FILED SEPT. 2, 1903. No MODEL. Y a EBEE'.ls-suTEETl 2.

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PAT-BNTBD JUNE 7, 1904.,

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PATTERN CHART.

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UNITED STATES PatentedfJ une 7, 1904.

PATENT OFFICE.

MARY EVA NOETHEN, or BENTON, TExAs.

- PATTERN-CHART.

SPECIFICATIONiforming part of Letters Patent No. 761,901, dated J une *7, 1904.

Application filed September 2, 1903. Serial No. 171,635. (No model.)

To a/Z whom, it may concern.-

Beit known that I, MARY EVA NORTHEN, a

citizen of the United States, residing at Denton, in the county of Denton and State of Texas,

have invented a new and useful Pattern-Chart,

of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to pattern-charts for cutting garments for men, women, and children; and it consists particularly in certain improvements upon the system of pattern-charts patented to me August 25, 1885, by Letters Patent No. 325,216.

- In describing the invention reference will be had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, in which there is exhibited a complete set of pattern-charts constructed in accordance with this invention, the novel features of which will be fully pointed out in the appended claim.

In the drawings, Figure l is a view showing the front-waist rule, which also shows the curves for use in cutting pants.

Fig. 2 shows the back-rule.

Fig. 3 shows the sleeve-rule.

Fig. A shows a'combined dart-rule'and skirt-L rule. Fig. 5 shows the extra-dart rule. Fig. 6 shows the pants-leg rule. Fig. 7 shows the pants-rule and waistband-rule.

The several rules illustrated' are respectively formed and marked with perforations,

lines, and figures, as represented in the draw--V vpermit folding in order to reduce the' charts to smallcompass and which is of suiicient weight to facilitate the ruling of patterns valong the margins thereof The front-waist rule (shown in Fig. l) has the straight front edge c, on which are marked the scales I?, the front R point, and a portion of the R R back-scale, which extends onto the curve f, along which are formed the scales O l and O O. At a slight distance from the straight front edge a is the bust-measure scale A, which is just below the neck-curve.` alinement with the scale A and near the bottom of the rule is a substantiallysimilar scale I. Between the scale A and the R R backscale is the front R scale. (Indicated by dotand-dash lines and perforations.

The scale by which the contour of theneckopening is determined is the scale B, lying adjacent to the scale A and the upper part of the front R scale. l The obliquely-disposed scale C and the more obliquely disposed scale D are used in determining the shoulder-curve, and the scale D is used in connection with the scale E and thel scale F in determining the outline of the armhole. The rear margin of the front waist-piece is determined by means of the scale F, the oblique scale G, and the waist-measure scale T, which is disposed horizontally between scales F and Itwill be noted that scales F and T are double scales, the portions near the rear edge of the front-waist rule being provided for plotting the outline of womens garments, and the portions nearer the forward margin being used in cutting patterns forv childrens garments.

`Point 1H and point 4H are used in connection with scales 2H, 3H, 5H, and 6H in determining the size of the darts in womens garments when two darts are employed in each front waist-piece, the outlines of the darts being determined by the concave side of the combined skirt and dart rule." (Shown in Fig. 4.)

When only a single dart is desired in each front waist piece, as in making coats and loose-tting waists, thel point J is used in connection with the scales J 2 and J 3.

The length of waist is plotted by the scale U, which, together with the scale T, makes up the large perforated area in the lower rear corner of the front-waist rule.

The ordinary form of skirt-dart is marked by the perforations shown at S. The scales indicated by dot-and-dash lines at K, L, M, X, Y, and at Z are used in connection with the outline-curves connecting those scales and the front R and back R R scales for cutting the upper portions of pants-pieces, the lower portions of which are cut by the pants-rule illustrated in Fig. 6.

rlhe back-rule(illustrated in Fig. 2) has the straight edge g, the concavely-curved top 7i, the oblique margin I, the rear armhole-curve the side margin Z, and the straight bottom fm.. Scales A Bf C D E' F Gr/ H I' T U correspond generally in position to scales A, B, C, D, E, F, Gr, H, I, T, and U on the front-waist rule and are similarly used.

The sleeve-rule (illustrated in Fig. 3) has the curved sides n and p, the curved top o, and the straight bottom r. rlhe scales A and A A along the margin n are used plotting the forward edges ofthe sleeve-pieces. The scales B and F are used in determining the length of the rear margin of the sleeve-pieces, the curves of which will be drawn by the margin p. The scale E on the margin o is used in determining the starting-point for forming the upper curve of the outer half of the dress! sleeve, and the scale E E is used in determining the upper curve of the inner half of the dress-sleeve.

The combined skirt and dart rule (shown in Fig. 4) has the point .s and the differentlycurved sides t and t, the former of which is used, as already stated` in ruling the outlines of darts and the latter of which is employed in ruling the convex edge for back and side form. rlhe combined skirt and dart rule is also provided with a plurality of transverse lines at Al and BAL for determining the lengths of collar-pieces, the outline of which may be ruled by either edge of the combined skirt and dart rule. The lengths for the collar-pieces are determined from the bust-measure, and in order to make the collar-pieces of proper length it is only necessary, the bust-measure being known, to mark the length from the line AA1 to that one of the lines at B4 which bears the number corresponding to the bust-measure.

The eXtra-dart rule is formed with the point a and the differently-curved sides o and w, is perforated at C5 D5 E and is provided with the transverse lines A5 B5, for laying off the lengths 4of collars, the bust-measure being known. In laying off collars from the scales shown on the eXtra-dart rule the lines corresponding to the bust-measure in each of the groups A and B5 should be noted, and the inner margin of the collar may be ruled along the edgew. The outside margin may be made of any desired coniguration.

rlhe pants-legs chart (illustrated in Fig. 6) is formed with the slightly-curved margin M', and the more sharply curved margin .N is marked with scales-front L", back L lf', back U, and the scale Vf. The use of the pantsleg chart in connection with the front-waist rule and the dot-and-dash scales and diagrams thereon is indicated in the dot-aml-dash dia,- gram shown at the upper end of the pants-leg chart. It is to be understood that the lines shown in the drawings of this specification as dot-anddash lines will in the practical construction of the charts be shown, preferably, as red lines to avoid any possibility of con fir sion.

The pants-rule and waistband (illustrated in Fig. 6) is graduated throughout its length in inches and is provided along the curve at the upper end with a small scale for use in connection with the R, L, and X scales on the waist-rule.

In order to cut patterns by this chart, the measurements necessary for the waist-pieces, front and back, are the bust-measure, length of waist in center of back, and circumference of waist. For sleeves the length of the inside of the arm and the width around the band at its widest part are required in addition to the bust-measure. For pants the waistband, length of inside seam, and bnstemeasure (used as hip-measure) are required.

The outlines of the charts are se drafted that by means of the measurements above mentioned garments to lit persons of figures approaching the average in symmetry may be cut very successfully by persons of comparatively small skill in cutting, and by measuring the length of waist under the arm and down the center of the front irregular forms may be fitted correctly.

Among the special iulvantages possessed by the improved chart may be mentioned thel single-dart scales and point upon the frontwaist rule; the R R back-scale, which is used in the cutting of pants to correct the length of the outside seam and to secure a proper lit at the back; the E E sleeve-scale, by which the curve of the under seam of the sleeve is perfected; the A A sleeve-scale for shaping the inner sleeve-seam and preventing its twisting onto the top of the arm, and the collar-scales upon the dart-rules, by means of which accurately-fitting collars may be cut when the bust-measure is known.

Having thus described the construction and advantages oi' my invention, what l claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, isH

In a system of pattern-charts, a front-waist rule and a pants-rule having points adapted to register to bring the two rules into position for use at the same time in cutting asingle piece of fabric, said pants-rule being prelOO vided with transverse rulings forming a scale, my own I have hereto axed my signature in and the front-Waist rule being provlded near the presence of two witnesses. the upper forward corner thereof Wlth a scale Jfor use in connection with a scale formed on MARY LVA 'N'ORrlHEN 5 thepants-rule for determining the length of Witnesses: y the outside seam of the pants. Y O. P. POE,

In testimony that I'claim the foregoing as JOE S. GOWBILL.

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