US389377A - follett - Google Patents

Description

3 Sheets-Sheet 1.

(No Model.)

B. P. FOLLETT.

CHART FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

No. 889,377. Patented Sept. 11, 1888.

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E. P. FOLLETT.

CHART FOR DRAFTING GAR MENTS. No. 389,377. Patented Sept. 11, 1888.

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3 Sheets-Sheet 3.

E. P. FOLLETT.

CHART FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

No. 389,377. Patented Sept. 11, 1888.

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'' ATENT EDWARD I FOLLETT, OF ROCHESTER, ASSIGNOR TO DANIEL \V. EDGECOMB, OF \VIIITESTONE, NEIV YORK.

CHART FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 389,377, dated September 11, 1888.

(No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, EDWARD P. FoLLE'rT, a citizen of the United States, residing in Rochester, in the county of Monroe and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Charts for Drafting Garments, of which the following is a specification.

The object of my invention is to provide a IO chart for drafting garmentsprincipally ladies dresses-that shall be simple in construction and reliable in its results, and which can be learned in a shorttime by any one accustomed to fit and prepare garments.

In charts hitherto devised, so far as I am aware, two plates or sections at least have been required, one for laying out the front and one for laying out the back of the dress. In my invention only one plate is used for both front and back, and this simplifies the system, reduces the space it occupies, and makes it easier to learn and use.

In the accompanying drawings, which illustrate my invention, Figure 1 is a chart or tomplet, showing the indicating devices whereby the garment may be drafted to the measures required for any form. Fig. 2 is the piece or attachment for use in connection with the chart for drafting the basque. 3 is a pattern of the front of a dress made by the use of the chart, and Fig. 4 is a pattern of the back of a dress similarly drafted.

In Fig. 1, A is the neck-piece, with indicating-niarks for the different sizes. This is at tached to the upper end of the rule A, sliding upon the pivots a a attached to the edge of the templet T. The rule A is jointed at (6, which adds greatly to the convenience of using and transporting. The rule A is pivoted at 0 a about which it turns. This rule is for the balance or shoulder measure, and is also jointed at at The templetlhas indicating devices for ob taining the proper shape and sizes of the front and back of the garments.

B, O, and D are slotted pieces, preferably of metal, set into the templet, making the chart durable.

The various indicating devices will be ex plained in connection with the measures required for drafting.

Ten measures are required in the use of this system, as follows: N o. l, front-measure, from the middle of back of neck to the middle of waist in front; N0. 2, balance-measure, from center of waist in front over the point of shoulder to center of waist in back, being careful to note the number of inches from center of waist in front to point of shoulder, also from point of shoulder down to center of waist in back; No. 3, bust-measure, around the largest part under the arms; No. 4, chest-measure, from one arm-hole to the other across the chest; N0. 5, under-arm measure, from the arm-hole down to belt or the top of hip; No. 6, neckmeasure, the exact size of neck; No. 7, backmeasure, from middle of back of neck to the middle of back Waist; No. 8, shoulder-measure, along the seam from neck to point of shoulder; No. 9, waist-measure, around the smallest part of waist; No. 10, hip-measure, around the hips five inches below waist.

TO DRAFT THE FRONT.

Front'mccswrc.-T0 set the neck-measure A 7 5 at the proper height, subtract one-eighth of the neck-measure (No. 6) from the front-measure and set the number on the sliding rule, which represents the remainder even with the bottom of the plate.

The reason why the above subtraction is made is because the distance from the upper end of the front piece of the pattern (the point z in Fig. 3) to the middle of the back of the neck is always one-eighth of the neck-measure, and as the front-measure is taken from the middle of the back of the neck this method gives the proper length to the front piece. Now place the plate upon the material and draw a line along the bottom, also a line along the rule on its front edge from the neck to the waist. (See lines 3 and m in Fi 3.)

Note. The capital letters refer to the chart; the small letters and figures to the drafted forms.

)alancemeaswc.Place the front ofthe peuoil in the hole in the revolving rule A indicating the front balance-measure, and draw a section of a circle about where the point of shoulder will come. (Line w in Fig. 3.)

Bust-measura-Make a mark the length of the slots in B, O, and D, indicating the measure. (See lines 1; o t and dots a u in Fig. 3.)

Chest-measure.Mark the number indicating the chest-measure at G. (Dot t in Fig. 3.) Neck-measure.lvlark the circular row of dots in A at the number indicating the neckmeasure. (8 s, Fig. 3.)

ShOttZdGT-THEQSMTG.-'FO1(1 over the rule and I place the shoulder curve at]? at the upper dot of the neck-measure and slide the plate, so that the number indicating the shoulder-measure in the rule N will exactly intersect the circle made by the revolving rule in balance: measure. Then draw aline along the plate from the upper dot of neck-measure to the point where the lines intersect, (line 7-,) remove the plate, and draw a perpendicular line upward from dot made from chest-measure G. (Line q.)

Under-arm measure.-l?laee the under-arm ruleKso that the numberindicatingunder-arm measure will rest at the dot made from the hole in E, and the upper point, L, will rest on the mark from slot in D. Mark the point L and draw a line from L to the dot below, indicating the under-arm measure. Then make a dot at the point indicating the under-arm measure at M. (Line and mark 0.) Slide the point L down to the dot made at M and draw a line across the upper part of the plate, so it will cross the marks made from slots B and G. (Linea) Then remove theplate. Place the arm-curve (a simple curved piece,not illustrated) so that the under edge will rest at the dot made from L and the left-hand edge on the perpendicular line above the dot made from G and the upper edge cross where the two lines intersect at the point of shoulder. Then draw a mark around the curved edge from point of shoulder to under arm. (Line M.)

To get width of dart-Subtract 4 from the bust-measure, and from this number subtract the waist-measure and divide the remainder by 4, which will give the exact width of bottom of each dart in inches. This amount (four inches) is first taken from the bust-measure, because so much of the difference between the bust and waist measures is taken out of the back by the narrowing of the back pieces of the pattern. The templet is arranged for this, as it gives the best results in fit and style, for all ordinary forms.

To draft the darts.Placethe point of dartcurve (a simple curved piece, not shown) at where the line crosses the slot B and the lefthand edges crosses the dot made from hole F, and draw a curved line from point to dot below. Then mark off the width of first dart around the bottom of waist at the right of the dart made from the hole F and draw another curved line from top of dart to the mark below. Then measure off fivc-eighths of an inch and proceed to make the second dart the same as first. (See Fig. 3, lines 70.)

It is customary and aids in the fitting of a garment to curve the front somewhat accord ing to the form. The curved line It in Fig. 3 shows this and is correct for ordinary forms. In drafting the back the amount thus added to the front is allowed for, as will be shown.

TO. DRAFT THE BACK.

First. Add two to the back-measure, and find that number on the sliding rule and place it even with the lower edge of the plate. Two inches are thus added to the length of the backmeasure, because the indicating-holes in the templet for the back are placed one and onehalf inch from the top in the neck-piece and one-half inch above the bottom, thus making the back scale two inches short. This is done in order to get the front and back scales in one templet.

Second. Mark the number indicating the neck-measure in the row of dots at 0. (See dot g in Fig. 4.)

Third. Draw a line along the sliding rule from the neck down to the bottom of waist. (Line f.)

Fourth. Mark the slot indicating the bustmeasure at D as many places to the left as there are one-fourth inches added to the front in the curve. (Line e.) Example: If thebustmeasure is thirty-five and the front curve is one-half inch, mark slot 33 at D. If the curve in front is three-fourths inch wide, mark the slot 32, 850.

Fifth. Mark the dots indicating the waistmeasure at H and I; also mark a dot at the lower edge of plate at the number indicating waist-measure at rule j. (Dots d d and 0.)

Sixth. Find the back balance-measure on the revolving rule and draw a section of a circle about where the point of shoulder will come. (Line 1).) Then fold the rules out of way and draw shoulder-curve the same as in front.

Seventh. Place the number indicating the under-arm measure K at the dot made at the rulej, so that the point L will rest on the mark made from the slot D, and drawa curved line along the edge from point L to the dot made at J, being careful to make a mark at point L. (See line 2.)

Eighth. Then place arm curve (already mentioned) so that the bottom will rest on the mark made at point L, and the upper left-hand edge will cross the point of shoulder and draw a curved line from point of shoulder to under arm. (Line 3.)

Ninth. Makea dot on the mark made from arm-curve a little above the center from point of shoulder to under arm. Then make another dot a little above the center from the dot first made and under arm, (Dots 4, 5.)

Tenth. Place back curve (asimple curved piece, not shown) so the upper left-hand edge will rest at dot in center of arm-curve and lower left-hand edge will cross the dot made from hole at H and draw a curved line along (Line 6.)

the edge,

Eleventh. Draw another curved line from the second dot in arm-curve to dot made through hole in series I. (Line 7 Twelfth. Draw a straight line from dot made through hole in I to the same dot above. (Line 8.)

Thirteenth. Draw a line from dot made through hole in I so it will cross dot at H. (Line 9.)

Fourteenth. Draw a line from dot made through the hole in I to the dot made at bottom plate at J. (Line 10.)

TO DRAFT THE BASQUE.

The basque-i ndieator consists of four pieces, as shown in Fig. 2, the T-square A and the curves 1, 2, and 3, all pivoted together at x. The T-square enables us to adapt the curves of the basque to the front and back portions of the dress. Subtract the waist-n1easure from the hip-measure, and the remainder will be the number to use on the basque-indicator. For convenience we will call this number 20. Slide 2 and 3 up out of the way, and set 1 so the line that number is on will be exactly even with the left-hand edge of the T- square. Place the T-square A so that the lower edge will be exactly on the line of bottom of waist and the left-hand edge even with the front of waist, hold the T-square and Fig. 1 in place, and draw a curved line down the left-hand edge of 1 from waist to bottom of basque. (Line 11.) All the other lines of the basque are made in the same manner, except that you have to reverse for right and left, using the same number throughout on curves 1, 2, and 3. Thus the forms 12, 13, and 11 in Fig. 3 are produced for the front of the basque, and the forms 15, 16, and 1? in Fig. 4. are produced for the back. Forms 12 and 13 on the front are made by the use of the two sides of piece N0. 1. Form 14 is made by the use of the two sides of piece No.2. Form 15 on the back draft is made by using No. 2 on the left and No. 1 011 the right. Form 1.6 is made by using No. 3 on the left and No. 2 on the right. Form 17 is made by using No. 3 on the left and No. 2 on the right. A finely-fitted garment is the result, the seams being sewed on the lines as drawn.

I claim as my invention 1. A garment-cutting chart consisting of the combination of the plate T, having marks, holes, or suitable indicating devices for draft ing the front and back portions of a garment, a graduated rule attached to the front edge of said plate and arranged to slide parallel to said front edge and carrying at its upper end the single piece A, having indicating devices for drafting the shape of the front and back portions of the neck, and a second graduated rule attached to the lower end of the front edge of the plate in such manner as to move about said point as a center.

2. The drcsseutting chart herein described, consisting of the piece A, with its indicating devices, the piece T, with its indicating devices, the graduated hinged rule A, joining said pieces A and T, and the graduated hinged rule A", attached to T and movable about the lower front corner of T as a center.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto subscribed my name this th day of May, A. D. 1886.

EDXVARI) 1. FOLLETT.

\V i t n esses:

CHARLES A. Tnuu'v, CAROLINE E. DAVInsoN.

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