US613095A

US613095A - Tailor s square

Info

Publication number: US613095A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1898-10-25
Anticipated expiration: 1915-10-25

Description

y outithe several views.

IINiTnD STATES- PATENT OFFICE.

J OIIN R. VAN DAME, OFGRAND RAPIDS, MICHIGAN.

TAILORS SQUARE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 613,095, dated October 25, 1898.

Application led October 2 8 1 8 9 6 To all whom it may concern.-

Beit known that I, JOHN R. VAN DAME, a citizen of the United States, residing at Grand Rapids, in the county of Kent and State of Michigan, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Tailors Squares, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in squares for use in cutting and fitting dresses and robes for ladies wear; and its objects are, first, to provide a square with which the several curves in a dress pattern may be accurately laid out from actual measure, and, second, to provide a square with which the collars and cuffs of a garment may be readily and accurately laid o-ut without changing any portion of the square. Iattain these objects by the peculiar construction of the square illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure l is a plan of one side of the square. Fig. 2 is a plan of the reverse side; and Figs. 3 and 4 show the curves, respectively, necessary to form the front and back of a Waist.

Similar letters refer to similar parts through-V I construct my square with one edge, as 7i 7d, straight and a right-angled tongue, as 7L h. I divide the straight edge of my square. into nches cc 17:7 u2, 3,59 H4, c: 5,77 4:6, dic-and on one side, as in Fig. l, I subdivide into halves and quarters, and beginning at the iive-inch mark I number it by quarterinches from 20 to 60 for measuring the bust-line after having obtained it by any available means, as a tape-line, dto. Thus, considering F the bust-line, the end h of the square placed at f the distance to f will be indicated by the figures resting at this point in quarter-inches. The body and tongue are divided and numbered in quarter-inches between the lines of two and fourinches, ranging from S to 16 to indicate the neckmeasure. (See the curve extending from 3 to 3 and the words Neck measure.) This curve is laid out from the point a in the corner of the square, and may be varied to be struck upon the radius described by any pair of these numerals to correspond with the variable sizes of various necks.

The neck-curve (indicated at C in Fig. 3)

is laid out by the curve in the angle of theV Serial No. 610,361. (No model.)

point c to a distance toward the end c'" ot the square required by the form to which the dress is being fitted. The same curve on the square, (indicated by G in Fig. 1,) commencing at c2, forms the curve from the bust to the Waist line.

The curve from c'" toward the head of the square is so formed that with it the back sideform curve A, the back-curve N, K, and K' may be laid out therewith; also, the underarm and side-form curves L and L' and the under-arm curve L and the gore-curves I-I and hip forms M, all as indicated by the printed directions upon the square.

J is the base-line from which to lay out the front of a waist pattern, and J and J are the same for laying out the back of a waist pattern.

It will be noticed that the straight edge of the square is in Fig. 2 arranged numerically in eighths and quarters to obtain the waistmeasure in front pattern and bust-measure in back pattern, also waist-measure for underarm measure and for side-form measure, as indicated by the printed directions near the tongue of the square.

D in Fig. 3 represents the shoulder-curve, which may be laid out by the portion of the square on the scale indicated by the numerals l to 7 on the curve edge of Fig. 1, and C is the back of the neck.

)Vith the square pivoted at b and a pencil applied at b the neck-curve may be formed.

'With pencil at d2 the ripple collar may be formed. Tith two pencils,one at b3 and one at b5, the cuff may be formed, and with one at b* and one at b5 the collar will be formed, and a cape may be laid out with one pencil at b5.

The laying out of the darts is indicated on the square by the lines marked 1st dart, top of dart, and 2nd dart, top of dart.

The apertureb6 is simply for convenience in hanging the square up.

Having thus fully described my invention,

IOO

what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States, is-

The combination, in a tailors square, having the outer edges of the tongue and body at right angles; With a graduated scale eX- tending by quarter-inches from 2O to 48, thence a space of two inches and a registered index by quarter-inches from 20 to 60 and a space, the opposite side non-registered for two inches from the point of angle, thence registered by quarter-inches from S to 16, thence a space of one inch, thence a register by quarter-inches from 20 to 60, thence a space indexed but not registered to the end, the inner curve formed so that the neck-curve and front arm-scye curve register from the saine points in the angle of the square, thence on one side dart-curves and curve from neck to bust,on the other side the curve from bust t0 Waist, thence on one side the under-arm, sidehip and dart curve, the other side registered by half-inches from '7 7 t0 0 for shouldercurve and dart-curve, thence on one side a back and side-form curve to the end, the 0pposite side blank, the tongue indexed in eighth and quarter inch spaces for neck-measure, and apertures at intervals through' the body of the square for laying out collars, dac. substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

Signed at Grand Rapids, Michigan, October 7, 1896.

JOHN R. VAN DAME.

In presence of- MABELLE W. JONES, ITHIEL J. CILLEY.