US514063A - Measure foe laying off dress ohaets - Google Patents

Description

I (No Model.)

a Sheets-Sheet 1. L. A. CALL.

S MEASURE FOR LAYING OFF DRESS GHARTS.

No. 514,063. Patented Feb. 6, L894.

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'L. A GALL. MEASURE FOR LAYING OFF DRESS GHARTS.

Patented Feb. 6, 1894.

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MEASURE FOR LAYING OPE DRESS CHARTS.

Patented Feb. 6, 1894.

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'mree STATES LIBBIE ANN CALL, OF OSHKOSH, WISCONSIN.

MEASURE FOR LAYING OFF DRESS-CHARTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Iletters Patent No. 514,063, dated February 6, 1894. Application filed May 19 1893. Serial No. 474,828. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, LIBBIE ANN CALL, acitizen of the United States, residing at Oshkosh, in the county of Winnebago and State of Wisconsin, have invented a new and useful Measure for Laying OE Dress-Charts, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in measures for laying off dress charts, and consistsin a certain novel construction and combination of parts which will appear in the following description, and the novel features thereof being particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawingsF igure 1 is a view of the main dress chart. Fig. 2 is a view of a supplement to the main dress chart. Fig. 3 is a View of a portion of a dress-waist pattern laid off by means of my improved chart.

Similar letters and numerals of reference indicate corresponding parts in all the figures of the drawings.

Referring to Fig. 1, it will be seen that my improved chart is substantially angular in' shape and is provided with a long arm 1 and a-short arm 2, the outer edges of which are disposed at a right angle to each other. The long arm increases in width from a point 3 toward its extremity 4., and from said point 3 the edge is curved to a point 5 which is located at about the center of the short arm. From the point 5 to the point 6 the edge is provided with a concaved curve which forms a continuation of the gradual curve 35, and from the point 6 the edge is convexly curved to the outer end 7 of the short arm, thus forming a lobe 8.

The surface of the chart is provided with graduations and markings indicating various proportionate measurements to be used in a manner hereinafter explained, the numerals which are employed to designate such proportions being arranged in columns parallel with the edges of the arms. For instance, the short arm is provided with six contiguous 7 parallel columns which, for convenience in the after description of the operation of the device, I will term the first, second, third, fourth, 850., columns. This is true also of the longer arm, and arranged contiguous to the inner or sixth column upon each arm 1s an inch rule 10 to be employed in various ways in connection with laying ofi a pattern. side of and adjacent to the said inch rules the surface of the square is provided with various shorter scales, those adjacent to the inner edge of the longer arm being designed for use in laying off the sleeves of garments, as indicated by the markings Elbow for sizes below at 11, 18 length at 12, Childs elbow at 13, Shoulder and sleeve arrow 14:, &c., all

of which are arranged in connection with arrows indicating a particular point upon the inner edge of the arm.. The shorter arm is similarly provided, adjacent to its inner edge, with a series of arrows marked Neck at 15, Line B at 16, Ohilds armseye and necks to sizes 28 at 17; and farther back from the edge a chest scale 18, &c. Upon the curve 35, of the longer arm, is arranged a series of arrows referring to hip measurements or indicating the part of the scale to apply to that part of the pattern and marked Hip spring 2% and 2%, Hip 3 and 4 forms, 2 and 1%, Hip &c.

. Referring to the columns of measurements upon the short arm of the square adjacent to the outer edge, the reference Front/neck 19 is found in the first column to distinguish or identify the contiguous series of measurements in the second column, and at an intermediatepoint of said first column is found One dart at bust 20 in connection with the measurements 4.0, 1%, 36, and 33. On oppo site side of square, are found scales for two darts. In the second column and removed from the front neck measurements above referred to are found the bust measurements ranging from 20 to 50, and in the fourth column is found a series of measurements referring to the neck back and indicated by Neck B 21. In the fifth and sixth columns are found measurements for laying ofi the side body and underarm portions, of a 2 form pattern, and indicated by the markings S. B. 2 F. and U. d. 2 F. as shown at 22.

Upon the long arm of the square in the first column and commencing adjacent to the angle are found dart measurements indicated by the marking 2 darts at waist at 23 and successively, measurements indicated by the markings front at waist 24, Under arm 2 F. at waist 25, Side body 2 F. at waist 26, and Back 2 F. at waist 27. In the second column are found measurements which are designated by the markings Under arm from line A 28, (such letter A referring to a line upon the pattern which will be explained hereinafter.) In the third column are found Front neck 29, 3 F front at 30, First side body 31 measurements, 850.; in the fourth column are found Ohilds shoulder 32, Shoulder and side body 33, and other references; in the fifth column are found Shout der and side body 34 measurements; and in the sixth column are found measurements for placing darts and for laying off t form patterns. The markings upon the sleeve scales which, as above described, are arranged adjaeent to the inner or curved edge of the longer arm of the square, are clearly shown in the drawings and will be understood Without special designation.

The supplementary chart, which I have shown in Fig. 2 of the drawings, is provided with measurements which are mainly identical with those upon the chart shown in Fig. 1, the shape of the same being as follows: 9 is a straight side edge intersected at a right angle by the end edge 10, and 11 is a convexly curved side edge which leaves the end 10 at an obtuse angle and meets the straight side edge 9 at the opposite end of the chart in an acute angle. The supplementary chart is also provided with an inch rule and the various other requisites of a chart of this kind, but it isnot provided with a lobe for laying 01f the neck, armseye, &c., with which the extremity of the short arm of the main chart is provided. This supplementary chart is designed to be used under conditions in which it would be inconvenient to carry the larger chart.

In laying 0d a dress pattern the bust measure controls the other measurements with the exception of the length of waist,the dart and front length, the waist and over shoulder measure, and, therefore, after determining the bust measure it will be found, as hereinafter fully explained, that the neck, side body, and various other measurements are indicated upon the chart, by a numeral corresponding with said bust measure, thus simplifying the use of the chart.

In order that the manner of laying off the dress pat-tern may be fully understood, the various measurements being known, the square is laid on the cloth or lining leaving a margin for hem in front and at top, and a lineA is drawn the length of the short arm of the square. Upon this line is indicated a point corresponding with the given bust measure which is found in the second column upon said short arm, such measurement being in the next scale and being indicated upon the pattern in Fig. 3 by a letter a. Now draw line B the length of the long arm of the square and indicating thereon a neck measurement corresponding with the bust size just laid oif in the third space and also a corresponding number in the fifth space to show the position of the line C. The various other points and lines, from D to N, inclusive, may be found and laid off in a similar manner, but a detail description thereof will not be necessary herein.

It will be understood that an important feature of my invention consists in the rounded lobe with which the short arm of the square is provided, the edge of such lobe being rounded or curved as to enable the neck and armseye to be described with facility.

Having described my invention, what I claim is- 1. The herein described dress chart, having angular-1y disposed arms, one of which is provided with a rounded lobe 8 having the convex curve 5, 6, 7 designed for laying off the neck, armseye, &c., substantially as specified.

2. The herein described dress chart,having angularly disposed arms whose outer edges are at a right angle to each other, and Whose inner edges are curved, as shown at 4, 3, 5, 6, 7, substantially as specified.

3. The herein described chart or form, having angularly disposed arms provided with proportionate scales relative to given bust measurements,such scales being arranged in columns parallel with the edges of the arms,

the inner sides of the arm being provided with a curved edge 4, 3, 5, and a rounded lobe 8, substantially as specified.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my own I have hereto affixed my signature in the presence of two witnesses.

LIBBIE ANN CALL.

Witnesses:

ANNA M WATSON, M. O. PHILLIPS.

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