US2688188A - Apparatus for proportionally balancing garments - Google Patents

Description

Sept. 7, 1954 Original Filed March 10, 1948 H. BOOTH 2,688,188

APPARATUS FOR PROPORTIONALLY BALANCING GARMENTS 6 Sheets-Sheet l SHOULDER INVENTOR. HENRY BoorH Sept. 7, 1954 H. BOOTH APPARATUS FOR PROPORTIONALLY BALANCING GARMENTS Original Filed March 10, 1948 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 SCY REFERENCE PL 9 NE INVENTOR. HEN/Pr BOOTH P WLSW 6 Sheets-Sheet 3 7 T o s g J a g A 3 3m mm @m 023 mm 3w 2 8% *3 w. Y P

EN mw &\m 823 mm s3 ,3 3 2m 53 QR *3 33 km 225G 9 E @G G MN 3 3 2% Q 33 H. BOOTH APPARATUS FOR PROPORTIONALLY BALANCING GARMENTS xQ N 12 v 3Q mv 22x5 wow v m 2% Sept. 7, 1954 Original Filed March 10, 1948 m. nfl l H. BOOTH Sept. 7, 1954 APPARATUS FOR PROPORTIONALLY BALANCING GARMENTS Original Fild March 10, 1948 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 mo M VB W y .9 m H H. BOOTH Sept. 7 1954 APPARATUS FOR PROPORTIONALLY BALANCING GARMENTS Original Filed March 10, 1948 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 IN V EN TOR.

Dll lllll lll HENRY BOOTH m av Qmwim 'IIIIIIIIA'IIIII By FYTTOQVEY Sept. 7, 1954 H. BOOTH 2,683,183

' APPARATUS FOR PROPORTIONALLY BALANCING GARMENTS Original Filed March 10, 1948 i Sheets-Sheet 6 PL ONE INVENTOR. EA/PY BOOTH 7 fiTTOP/VEY Patented Sept. 7, 1954 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE APPARATUS FOR PROPDRTIONALLY BALANCING GARMENTS Henry Booth, Bronxville, N. Y., assignor to The Henry Booth Methods Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of Delaware Claims.

My invention relates to an apparatus for proportionally balancing garments.

This application is a division of my copending application Serial No. 14,134 for Method for Proportionally Balancing Garments, filed March 10, 1948, now Patent No. 2,624,943, dated January 13, 1953.

Garments such as mens suits are now procured in two general manners, usually designated as tailor-made and ready-made. A tailormade garment is one in which cloth is selected by the customer and the suit made to order from measurements taken by a tailor. Usually, the girth of the chest, the girth of the waist, the girth of the seat, the girth of the abdomen, the girth of the thigh, the height of the customer, the outseam of the trouser, the inseam of the trouser, the inseam of the sleeve, a measurement from the middle of the back of the neck across the shoulder to the elbow and then to the end of the sleeve, a measurement from outseam to outseam across the shoulders, a measurement from the middle of the back of the neck around the front and down the front to the vest opening, and then down to the top of the waist are taken. The squareness of the shoulders is checked. All of the measurements taken are not necessarily used. From these measurements, the tailor cuts a pattern from which the cloth is cut and basted into the form of the garment. Ordinarily the basted garment is fitted to the customer and inaccuracies in the pattern are compensated for in order to get a suit of clothes which fits.

With a tailor who has a degree of skill, a fairly good fitting garment is attained in this manner. Unfortunately, however, an individual merchant tailor cannot aiford to employ a stylist who commands a large salary and who has the ability to cut clothes so that they present a smart or stylish appearance. A tailor-made suit, therefore, while well fitting is apt to look old-fashioned and out of style.

Ready-made clothes are designed by a master stylist who since his style will be reproduced many times can be economically employed by an establishment making ready-made clothes. The designer usually cuts a pattern for what is termed a 38 regular. The style is usually given a name. The regular pattern is cut for a man having a 38 chest measurement and regular posture, that is, a man who is not hunchback, round shouldered or hollow chested. It is assumed that he is of average height and has normal shoulders, equal in length and in slope. In addition to the regular size, two other 38 sizes are made,

2 that is a 38 short and a 38 long so that for each chest measurement there will be three general sizes. In addition, the style is usually made in the three types for all chest measurements from thirty-five to fifty-two. Accordingly, it is necessary for a store selling the clothes to carry sixteen sizes of three lengths for each style. Itis not unusual to have as many as five hundred different sizes and lengths in various styles for one pattern of cloth. It will be seen, therefore,

that the choice of styles and fabrics must necessarily be limited in ready-made clothes.

Furthermore, it rarely happens that a stock suit of clothes will exactly fit a customer. Some alterations are usually necessary. Not infrequently, in making the alterations, the style which was expensively achieved may be destroyed or altered to lose its effect.

One object of my invention is to provide apparatus for proportioning garments such that a standard pattern may be altered from the customers measurements in such a manner that the style of the garment will be retained and that the garment will fit the customer precisely without a trial fitting.

Another object of my invention is to provide a device for proportionally balancing garments by transcribing into measurements intelligible to cutters deviations from a standard pattern required to be made to obtain a garment which will fit a given customer and retain the original style.

Another object of my invention is to provide a novel apparatus for proportioning garments from measurements whereby a standard pattern may be altered to provide a garment which will fit the customer and retain the style of the garment.

Other and further objects of my invention will appear from the following description.

In the accompanying drawings which form part of the instant specification and which are to be read in conjunction therewith and in which like reference numerals are used to indicate like parts in the various views:

Figure 1 is a top plan view of a coat showing various adjustments made between front and back panels for various changes from a regular pattern.

Figure 2 is a front elevation of the garment shown in Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a side elevation of the garment shown in Figure 1.

Figure 4 is an elevation of a front panel of a coat showing the various changes made in Figures l, 2 and 3.

Figure 5 is an elevation of a back panel of a coat showing the corresponding changes made.

Figure 6 is a view showing a section of a tape used in the apparatus embodying my invention.

Figure 7 is a front elevation of a device for proportioning garments which may be used in carrying out my method.

Figure 8 is a sectional view taken on the line 8-8 of Figure 7.

Figure 9 is a fragmentary sectional view drawn on an enlarged scale taken on a line Figure 8.

Figure 10 is a fragmentary plan view drawn on an enlarged scale of the portion of the face of the device shown in Figure 7.

Figure 11 is a fragmentary sectional view taken along the line I l| I in Figure 10.

Figure 12 is a fragmentary sectional view taken .along the line I2-l2 of Figure. 10.

Figure 13 is a perspective View of the front of a coat showing the use of the-strap measurement to establish a horizontal reference plane.

Figure 14 is a rear perspective view of a coat showing the use of a scye measurement to establish a horizontal referenceplane.

In carrying out my method, I first establish a horizontal reference plane to which all other measurements are co-related. This reference plane extends horizontally below the armscye of the garment and is determined by measuring around one shoulder. The manner of establishing the reference plane can be understood by reference to Figures 2 and 3. For uniformitys sake, I prefer to establish this reference plane tangent to the bottom of the armscye of the garment. The length of the measurement from reference plane around the shoulder to reference plane is designated as shoulder. The length of the measurement from the middle of the back of the neck around the neck and downwardly to the middle of the front of the garment to the ref erence plane is called strap. Ihe length of the measurement from the middle of the back of the'neck down the middle of the back to the reference plane is called scye. My invention will be described with reference to the coat of a suit, though it is to be understood that it is applicable to vests, robes, capes, overcoats and the like. addition to the strap, the shoulder and the scye measurements, the girth of the chest, the girth of the waist, and the girth of the seat are taken. In the case of a vest, the girth of the chest, the girth of the waist, the position of the bottom button and the length of the back are taken. The measurements described hereinbefore are gener ally made by an experienced fitter with a common tape measure in a manner which will be understood by those skilled in the art.

With the above measurements, a standard pattern can be readily altered in accordance with my method in a proportional manner to retain the original style and at the same time provide a perfectly fitting garment.

If the scye measurement of the customer is too long, a standard garment will flare in the back and there will be diagonal wrinkles in the side running from the front of the coat upwardly toward the back. If the strap measurement of; the customer is too long with respect to the standard garment, the coat will flare in the front and diagonal wrinkles will extend along the sides of the coat from the front downwardly toward the back. If the scye measurement of the customer is too short with respect to the standard garment, there will be horizontal wrinkles in back of the coat below the neck. If the strap measurement of the customer is too short with respect to the standard garment, the coat will dip in the front and flare in the back.

Referring now to Figure 2, the full shoulder line indicated by the reference numeral I4 is a line indicating the normal shoulder to which the standard pattern is cut. The shoulder line Mh comprising a line of alternate long and short dashes represents the shoulder line for a person having high shoulders. The line Ms comprising a line of one long and three short dashes shows the shoulder line of a person having sloping shoulders. The lines I4, I ls and I471 all lie along line I4 in Figure 1 and Figure 3. Whereas in Figure 2, it is assumed that the customer is neither more erect than the pattern model nor more stooped than the pattern model. The adjustment for high shoulders, it will be observed, is made by reducing both the length of the strap and the length of the scye at a point near the neck. Accordingly, a high shoulder correction lessens the length of the dimensions of both the front and back pattern remote from the shoulder. It will be observed, further, that in the case of a sloping shoulder the length of the strap and the length of the scye are both increased, that is, the dimension from the reference plane to the seam Ms, both in front and back, is longer than the standard pattern. The effect of a sloping shoulder correction, therefore, is to increase the dimensions of both the scye and the strap.

Let us assume that the customer stands with his neck slightly forward of the standard position, that is, he has a slight stoop. Referring now to Figure l, the lineof dashes l5 indicates the contour of the neck and the shoulder seam. The seam is is obtained by increasing the measurement from the reference plane from the mid-- die of the back to the middle of the neck, that is, increasing the length of the back as in the case of sloping shoulders and decreasing the length of the measurement from the reference plane along the strap to the shoulder seam, that is, the measurement from the middle of the front of the reference plane to the top of the front panel of the pattern. This correction is one made for high shoulders in the front panel. This can be seen by reference to Figures 4 and 5. The line 14 indicates the standard pattern line forming the shoulder seam M Figures 1 and 3. The dashed line It in Figure 4: formed at an angle with line i l in a manner so as to reduce the length of the front panel adjacent the neck. The dashed line it in Figure 5 is formed at an angle with line M so as to increase the length of the back panel from the reference plane to the neck line. In other words, we have made a correction in the front panel which we would make for high shoulders. We have, however, made a correction in the back panel which we would make for sloping shoulders. The correction made is the equivalent of high shoulders in the front and "sloping shoulders in the back. Let us now consicler that the customer is stooped more than that indicated by the line [6 to a position indicated by the line l8 formed with two dashes and a dot. By reference to Figures 1, 3, 4- and 5 it will be seen that line 58 is parallel to line it. Not only is the strap measurement reduced and the scye measurement increased but the point of juncture of. the seam with the shoulder seam I7 is moved forwardly. A correction of this type, where the new shoulder seam It is parallel to the old shoulder seam M of the standard pattern and displaced in a forwardly direction, is called a correction for stoop. The correction adjacent the neck in this case is one which does not change the slope of the shoulders.

It will be observed that the corrections for stoop may be of two kinds. The angle of the shoulder seam may be changed to allow for the more forward positioning of the neck by a sloping shoulder correction in the back and a high shoulder correction in the front and leaving the seam adjacent the sleeve seam as in the original pattern; or the correction may be made by increasing the length of the scye and decreasing the length of the strap, which results in lengthening the panel in the back adjacent the sleeve seam and shortenin the panel in the front adjacent the sleeve seam. If larger corrections for stoop were made only by shortening the strap and lengthening the scye, the balance of the garment would be destroyed and the style which is attained. at such great effort and expense would be lost. Similarly, if large corrections for stoop were made only by the sloping shoulder correction in back and the high shoulder correction in front, the balance of the garment would be distorted and the style lost. I have determined that only a limited correction for stoop should be made by cutting the pattern to sloping shoulders in back and hi h shoulders in front and that the balance of the correction for stoop must be made by lengthening the scye and reducing the strap adjacent the sleeve seam. It is generally better to balance corrections so that part of the correction in stoop is made by each of the type of corrections described above.

Still referring to Figures 1, 3, 4 and 5, the line drawn with a dash and four dots is obtained when the customer is quite round shouldered. It will be noted that the line 20 is parallel to the line it and the pattern alteration is the result of two corrective increments. The first increment is to apply the correction for sloping shoulders in back and the correction of high shoulders in front as in the case of the corrections applied to obtain line It. The second increment of the correction is to increase the length of the scye and to decrease the length of the strap as may readily be observed by reference to Figure 3. The result of the two increments is to provide a coat which will fit an, extreme case of stoop without destroying the balance of the garment.

The dotted line 22 is obtained when the customer has an erect posture and carries his neck well back. The pattern is altered by applying a sloping shoulders correction in front and a high shoulders correction in back. For an extreme erect position, the line 26, comprising a dash and two dots, is obtained by using two increments of correction. One increment is obtained by applying the correction of high shoulders in back and for sloping shoulders in front, and the other increment is obtained by increasing the strap and reducing the scye, as will be observed by reference to Figure 3.

As in the case of corrections for stoop, corrections for a position more erect than the standard position to which the pattern is drawn must be applied so as not to destroy the balance of the garment and the style of the pattern. This is achieved by dividing the correction between corrections of the two types.

In practice, I have found that a sloping shoulderand a corresponding high shoulder correction alone, without any alteration in the strap or the scye measurements adjacent the sleeve seam, should not be in excess of one inch and that beyond this a correction for the strap and the scye measurements adjacent the sleeve seam should be introduced, which correction I have termed a correction for stoop or a correction for erect. The numerical values of the stoop and erect corrections are twice the actual distance the seam is moved. If, for example, a person to be fitted has a three-quarter inch stoop,

' this may be compensated for by providing a sloping shoulder correction in back of three-eighths of an inch and a high shoulder correction in front of three-eighths of an inch. It may be compensated for, too, by providing a stoop correction of one-half inch and a sloping shoulder correction in back of an eighth of an inch and a high shoulder correction in front of an eighth of an inch. In other words, as long as the sloping shoulder and high shoulder corrections are not in excess of one inch, the balance of the garment will not be destroyed. Usually, even in extreme cases, a correction of two inches in each direction is sufficient to accommodate all but the most deformed of men. Each side is, of course, independently corrected in accordance with the customers measurement.

From the foregoing, it will be clear that my method contemplates the establishment of a reference plane from which measurements are taken and the correction of a standard pattern to provide for sloping shoulder and high shoulder corrections within predetermined limits and the provision of a correction for the balance of the needed change by variations in the strap and scye measurements adjacent the sleeve seam.

In practice, the method may be carried out without any particular apparatus. The reference plane may be marked on the person by means of chalk marks defining a plane just under the arm scye of the coat. It may be established, too, by the shoulder measurement. The corrections for high shoulders or sloping shoulders may be noted. The corrections for the stooped or erect positions may be measured on the person and proper allowances made so that a sloping shoulder or high shoulder correction of not more than one inch may be applied and the balance of the correction obtained by variations of the strap and scye measurements.

I have found that it will be a convenience, however, in practicing my method to employ apparatus, which forms the instant invention, which will facilitate the practice of the method. Referring now to Figure 6, I have shown a segment of an endless tape 31 carrying columns of indicia placed in a predetermined position. The column of figures, indicated generally by the reference numeral Bil, represents the strap measurements, the line 32 running through those of the standard pattern. The column of numerals indicated generally by the reference number 34 indicates the scye measurements, the standard measurements being indicated by the line 36. The column of figures indicated generally by the reference numeral 38 are the standard shoulder measurements which locate the reference plane. The column of figures indicated by the reference numeral M is the chest measurements of the coat. The column of figures indicated by the reference numeral M is the waist measurements of the standard models. The column of figures indicated generally by the reference numeral 44 represents the seat measurementsof: the standard:

models. The column of figures indicated"genenally by the reference numeral 46, indicates the chest measurements for the vest in the standard model. The column of figures indicated generally by the reference numeral 48 indicates the waist measurements for the vest on the standard model. The column of figures indicated generally by the reference numeral 50 indicates the length along the strap to the bottom button of the vest. The column of figures indicated generally by the reference numeral 52 indicates the length of the measurement along the scye to the bottom of the back of the vest.

The column indicated generally by the reference numeral 54 contains the name of the model, that is, its style, the size, and the length of the model-whether it is a regular, a long or a short.

Referring now to Figures 8 and 9, the tape 31 is borne by a plurality of rollers 55, 516, 51, 58, 59, 60,,16I, 62, 63., 6:4 and 65. Each of the rollers com.- prises members 63 covered by rubber members 68. The shafts 66 are journaled in suitable bearings; The shafts of the bottom rollers 60., 6| and 62 are lodged in slots '56 so that the weight of the rollers serves to keep the tape taut. Sprocket wheels 72 are secured to the shafts of the upper rollers 63, 64 and 65. A sprocket chain 74 passes around the edge of the sprocket 12 so that movement of one of the rollers 63, 6.4 or 65 will result in the movement of all three. Secured to the shaft 65 of the roller 63 outboard of the sprocket wheel '52, I provide a second sprocket wheel I6. A shaft 18 is journaled in the housing 86 and carries a sprocket wheel 82. A sprocket chain 84 extends around sprocket wheel '76 and sprocket wheel 82. A sprocket wheel 86 is secured to the shaft 13 for rotation therewith. A horizontal casing 86 is secured to the housing 80. A sprocket wheel 9i provided with a handle 62, for rotating it is journaled in the casing 88. A sprocket chain 94 extends between sprocket wheel 86.

The tape 3| passes adjacent the front wall 96" of. the casing 80 over rollers 51 and 58, thence around rollers 59, 66, 65, 6!, 64, 62, 63, 55 and 56 as can readily be seen by reference to Figure 8. The weight of the roller 66, 6| and 62' will serve to keep the tape taut. The ratio of the diameter of the sprocket wheels is such that sprocket wheel 90 is larger than sprocket wheel 86; Sprocket wheel 82 is larger in diameter than sprocket wheel "I6. In this manner, a speed increase is obtained so that rotation of the crank 92 will move the tape 3! rapidly. The front face 96 of the housing 68 is provided with a plurality of windows 98, I60, I62, I04 and I06, as well a -a large window I68. The position of the windows 68, :06, I62, I64 and I06 is indicated in Figure 6; There is visible through window 98 that portion of the tape showing column 54. There is visible through window I66 that portion of the tape showing columns 38, 40, 42 and 44. Columns 46, 46, 58 and of the tape are viewed through window I62. The strap measurements are seen through window I64, while the scye measurements are seen through window I06. The large window I68 provides a translucent writing surface.

Within the casing 86 I provide illuminating means such as fluorescent tube H and reflector I I2 for illuminating window I08. The tape itself may be transparent or translucent and the win dows 98, I80, I02, I04 and I06 are illuminated by illuminating means such as fluorescent tube .I;.I,4;

sprocket wheel 90 and 8. and reflector IIB. Horizontal casing 88 will be provided with a pair of drawers H8 and I20, the upper surface of the extension being illuminated by lighting means such as fluorescent tube I22 and reflector I24.

Referring now to Figure 10, which is an enlarged view of a section of the front 96 of the housing showing the windows 68, I00, I02, I04 and. I06, together with the tape 3| therebehind, it will be observed that I have provided a sliding member I26 provided with a handle I28 carrying a knob I30. The member I26 is provided with an extension I32 passing through a slot formed in the face 96 of the casing 80. A plate I34 secured to the extension I32 by means of screws I 36 so that the member I26 is free to slide from side to side. The face 96 of the casing is provided with a plurality of reentrant portions I38 in which the end of a spring press pin I40 carried by the pointer I28 is adapted to seat. The pin I40, furthermore, is adapted to limit the righthand motion of the member I26 by contact with a stop member I42. The left-hand motion of the slide I26 is adapted to be limited by a stop member I44 carried by the casing. A series of scribe marks or like indicia is provided on the face 96 of the casing just above the slide in the region of the pointer I28. The marks to the left of the zero point indicate stoop. The marks to the right of the zero point indicate erect. The scale of the scribe marks I46 is drawn one-half the actual scale, that is, in the scale one-half inch equals one inch. The reason for this will become apparent as this description proceeds.

Slidably positioned within the left-hand side of slide I26, I provide a member 148 having a knob I58 by which it may be moved to the right and to the left. The slide I48 carries a pointer I52 normally pointing to a zero scribe mark I54. A stop member I56 prevents the slide I48 from moving any further to the right. Similarly, a stop member I 53 limits the leftward movement of the slide I48, which slide may be made of transparent material. The upper portion I2! of the slide I26 may be made of transparent material so that the numerals on the tape 3| seen through the windows I04 and I06 may be readily visible.

A third slide I 60 is slidably carried on the right-hand side of the slide I26 and is provided with a knob I62 for moving the slide I60 easily, which slide is made of transparent material. The slide I60 carries a pointer I64 which is adapted to cooperate with a stop member I66 carried by the slide I26 for limiting the right-hand movement of the slide I60. A stop member I68 coacts with the pointer I 64 to limit the left-hand movement of the slide I60. The scribe mark I65 indicates zero. It will be observed that the small scale carried by the right-hand side of the slide I26 extends one inch in each direction and that the right-hand side of the scale carries the legend HS which represents high shoulders. That portion of the scale to the left of the zero mark IE5 is designated by the legend SS which stands for sloping shoulders.

The scale cooperating with the slide I48 carried by the left-hand side of the large slide I26 likewise extends one inch in each direction. Its left-most portion is marked with the legend HS" standing for high shoulders, while the right-hand portion of the left subscale is associated with the legend SS standing for sloping shoulders. In the practice of my method and in the use of my apparatus, let us say that a customer enters a merchant tailor, employing my invention and selects the style known as Dunn. He chooses a fabric of which he would like to have the suit from the samples of the fabric which may be displayed in any suitable manner. Let us assume, too, that his chest, measured with a tape measure, has a 42 inch girth and that his height is about feet inches, so that he would take a 42 regular. The tailor then cranks the handle 92 until the legend Dunn 42 Reg. appears in window 98. What is then seen can be viewed in Figures 6 and 10. It will be observed that the reference plane on the standard pattern is established by a shoulder measurement of 19 The girth of the chest of the coat is 55". The girth of the chest of the vest is 43%. In other words, in the standard style, an allowance of 1%" is made for the vest while an allowance of 13" is made for the coat. The waist of the standard model around the coat is 50 The waist for the vest is made at 40 The seat on the standard model is 53%,. The length along the strap to the bottom button is 23 The length of the back of the vest is The length of the strap is 16%". The length of the scye is 10%".

In taking the measurements of the customer, the tailor first locates the reference plane. This is done very simply by measuring 19% around the shoulder or by drawing a horizontal line just below the armscyle. The strap measurement is then taken .and the scye measurement is then taken. By means of a square, it is noted whether the shoulders are normal and equal in height.

The bottom button measurement of the vest is used to determine whether the vest pattern should be lengthened or shortened and to what amount.

Let us assume that the scye measurement actually taken on the customer was 11% and that the strap measurement was 16". The righthand edge of the slide I60 may be brought into alignment with the scye measurement actually taken from the customer. To do this the slide I60 must be moved to the left and will indicate sloping shoulder of an inch. The left-hand slide I48 may be moved to the left to bring its left-hand edge into alignment with the strap measurement on the tape, that is, 16". When this is done, the pointer I42 will read high shoulders of an inch. The cutter may be instructed to change the pattern high shoulders front of an inch and sloping shoulders back of an inch. It will be observed that neither of these measurements differs from the standard pattern more than one inch and that accordingly the pointer I52 is not stopped by the stop I58, nor is the pointer I64 stopped by the stop I68. This degree of measurement may be made without seriously affecting the balance of the garment. If desired, however, since the figure of the customer is somewhat stooped, the handle I30 may be moved to the left to indicate stoop. This carries the right-hand side of the slide I26 to the left to indicate a scye measurement of 11 and a strap measurement of 16 /2, due to the fact that the stoop and erect scale is drawn to the scale of one-half inch equals one inch. Accordingly, the half-inch movement of the pointer I28 will register only one-quarter inch on each of the scye and strap scales. The strap, however, is 16". Accordingly, the small slide I46 must be moved to the left another half an inch, thus indicating high shoulders in. The scye measurement was 11% so that the slide I60 must be moved to the left of an inch, resulting in a reading by pointerv I64 of sloping shoulders in. All alterations to the strap measurements are considered front, while all alterations to the scye measurements are considered back. It will be observed from the foregoing that the garment will fit with substantially the same balance by one type of change in the pattern, or by a change in the pattern comprising two compon ents, one for stoop and one comprising high shoulders in front and sloping shoulders in back.

Let us now assume that a customer who has chosen a Dunn style and whose chest measurement and height require the use of basic pattern of a 42 regular has an extremely erect carriage and is, in fact, slightly sway back. Let us assume further that this customers scye measurement is 9 and that his strap measurement is 18". Starting with the slide I60, this slide is moved to the right in an attempt to align its right-hand edge with 9 /2. After 9 is reached, the slide I60 is arrested by pointer I64, contacting the stop I66. The slide I26 then must be moved toward the right, first one notch, that is, so the spring press pin I40 rests in the reentrant portion I38 with the pointer I28 opposite A; in. erect. The slide I60 cannot yet be moved to the right to reach a scye measurement of 9 due to the fact that the movement to the right of the scale I26 only brings its right-hand edge to 10 The operator then moves the slide I26 another notch to the right to bring it to the reading one inch erect. The right-hand side of the scale I26 will now be in alignment with 10% on the scye scale. The slide I60 may now be moved to the right to bring its right-hand edge in alignment with the scye measurement of the customer, namely 9%". The pointer I64 will then read 7 high shoulders. The movement of the slide I26 to the right to the position of one inch erect will bring the left-hand edge of the scale I26 to 17%;". The slide I46 may then be moved to the right to bring its left-hand edge in alignment with the strap measurement of the customer, namely, 18", so that the pointer I52 will then read sloping shoulders in.

The cutter will be instructed to change the pattern by the directions 1 in. erect, high shoulders back sloping shoulders front.

Let us say that a customer has high shoulders, that is, his shoulders are more square and not as sloping as a standard model. This will be at once apparent from the strap and scye measurements. If the scye measurements, for example, were 10% and the strap measurement was 16%", the

correction would be made by moving the scale I 60 to the right one-half inch and the scale I 48 to the left one-half inch. This degree of change in slope is easily verified from the square measurements taken. The cutter would then be instructed to change the pattern to provide for a correction of high shoulders /2 in.

It will be seen that the device described enables my method to be carried out in a convenient, simple and expeditious manner. The high shoulders and sloping shoulders corrections are not made in excess of one inch in each direction. The movement of the scam in stoop and erect corrections is not made in excess of one inch in each direction. A one inch erect correction, for example, would be distributed evenly, one-half inch to the strap and one-half inch to the scye, due to the fact that the stoop and erect scale changes both the strap and the scye measurement a like amount. The reason for making the stoop and erect scale one-half the actual scale will now be apparent. By moving the scale I26 one-half inch to the right a correction of one inch is obtained distributed evenlyone-halfinch to the strap and one-half inch to the scye.

The system of stops, the stops I42 and I44 for the scale Hit and the stops I66 and IE8 for the scale its and the stops I55 and I58for the scale I48, automatically prevents the application of corrections to such a degree that an unbalanced garment would be made. The pattern is automatically corrected in such a manner as to maintain the style for which the garment was designed.

The other customary measurements of the length of the coat, the actual waist of the customer, the actual seat of the customer, the actual position of the bottom button and the length of the back or" the vest are all taken as in the usual case and the standard pattern altered in accordance with these actual dimensions. These dimensions are not critical and are not such as to disturb the balance of the garment.

By means of my method, I have been enabled to fit customers precisely without a trial fitting. I can provide smartly styled tailored garments made from a standard pattern and can be assured that the suits will fit. In this manner, I am enabled to obtain many of the advantages of ready-made clothing in so far as smart styles are concerned and all of the advantages of tailored clothing in so far as the fitting of the clothes are concerned.

My method and apparatus removes much of the guesswork from tailoring and tends to reduce it from an art to a science whereby accurately fitting clothes are insured.

It will be seen that I have accomplished the objects of my invention.

I have provided a method and apparatus for proportioning garments such that a standard pattern may be altered from the customers measurements in a manner to retain the style and to enable the garment to fit precisely Without the necessity of the trial and error method. I have an improved method of proportioning garments in an accurate, uniform, simple and expeditious manner. I have provided apparatus for proportioning garments from measurements of the customer whereby a standard pattern may be altered to provide a garment which will fit the customer in a manner to retain the style of the original pattern.

Thus far I have described the fixing of a reference plane by a standard shoulder measurement and the alteration of the pattern by strap and scye measurements in order to provide a garment of a style in accordance with a standard and obtain the necessary lit for the particular subject to be fitted with a garment. It is to be understood that the standard reference plane may be established by either the standard scye measurement or the standard strap measurement. If the reference plane is established by the standard scye measurement, the shoulder measurement and the strap measurement of the person will be used to alter the standard pattern. If the reference plane is established by a standard strap measurement, the scye measurement and the shoulder measurement of the person will be used to alter the pattern. Referring now to Figure 13, it will be seen that the horizontal reference plane has been established by the strap measurement indicated in full lines and that the scye and shoulder measurements indicated in dotted lines may be varied. It will be clear that if a sloping shoulder correction is to be made thiscan be done very readily by reducing the shoulder measurement in an amount proper to provide an increased degree of sloping of the shoulder line over the slope of the standard garment. If the subject has high shoulders the shoulder measurement is increased and the scye measurement remains the same. It is to be remembered that when the reference plane is established by the strapmeasurement it never changes. Let us now assume that the subject is stooped and it is desired to give the coat the configuration say of .construction line 26 shown in Figure 3. To accomplish this, the scye measurement is increased by the amount of stoop and the standard shoulder measurement is increased by an amount equal to the increase in the scye measurement, assuming that it is not desired to change the slope of the shoulder. If, on the other hand, it is desired to give the coat a configuration of erect such as indicated by construction line 24 of Figure 3, the scye measurement is decreased and the shoulder measurement is decreased a corresponding amount, assuming that it is desired to maintain the same slope of the shoulders. Thus the balance of the coat is maintained.

Referring now to Figure 14, I have shown the case in which the scye measurement is used to establish the horizontal reference plane. In this, if it is desired to correct for sloping shoulders, the shoulder measurement is decreased. If it is desired to correct for high shoulders the shoulder measurement is increased. If it is desired to correct for stoop and strap measurement is decreased the required amount and the shoulder measurement is decreased a corresponding amount. If it is desired to correct for a more erect posture than the standard garment the strap is increased and the shoulder is increased a corresponding amount.

Thus it is seen that the essence of my method is to establish a horizontal reference plane to which the standard shoulder, strap and scye measurements are read. Thereference plane is then located on 'the subject by one of these standard measurements which may be either the shoulder measurement, the strap measurement orthe scye measurement. The actual length of each of the other two measurements of the subject is then taken to the reference plane which is thus established and each of the actual lengths is then compared with the corresponding measurement to determine the amount and direction of the difference therebetween. The standard pattern may then be readily altered in accordance with the differences thus obtained and'the resulting garment will fit and maintain the proportional balance of the standard garment. In practice, I have found it most suitable toestablish the referenceplane by a standard shoulder measurement.

It will be understood that certain features and subcombinations are of utility and may be employed without reference to other features and subcombinations. This is contemplated by and is within the scope of my claims. It is further obvious that various changes may be made in details within the scope of my claims without departing from the spirit of my invention. It

is, therefore, to be understood that my invention is not to be. limited to :the specific details shown and described.

Having thus described my invention, what .I claim is:

-l. A devicefor proportioning garments including in combination a tape bearing a line of garment sizes of a predetermined style, a corresponding line of standard shoulder measurements adapted to locate a reference plane upon a pattern corresponding to garments of said style and size, a line of scales having their midpoints aligned with the strap measurements of the sizes and a line of scales having their midpoints aligned with the scye measurements of the standard sizes, a casing formed with at least four windows, means for mounting said tape within said casing for view through said windows, said windows being positioned to exhibit a style and size and the corresponding shoulder measurement and strap and scye scales, a first member mounted on said casing for relative movement along the scales in view through said windows, said member having a length extending between the midpoint of the strap scale to the midpoint of the scye scale, a second member carried by said first member and mounted for relative movement thereto adjacent said strap scale and a third member carried by said first member for movement relative thereto along said scye scale.

2. A device as in claim 1 in. which said scye scales have a length of at least four inches.

A device as in claim 1 in which each of said strap scales and scye scales has a length of at least four inches.

4. A device as in claim 1 in which the amplitude of motion of said first member is at least two inches.

5. A device as in claim 1 in which said second member may move at least two inches relative to said first member.

6. A device as in claim 1 in which said third member may move at least two inches relative to said first member.

'7. A device as in claim 1 in which said first member is mounted for movement through an amplitude of at least two inches, said second member is mounted for relative movement to said first member through an amplitude of at least two inches and said third member is mounted for relative movement to said first member through an amplitude of at least two inches.

8. A device as in claim 1 in which said casing is provided with a scale, a pointer carried by said first member normally positioned midway of said scale, the scale to one side of th midpoint adjacent the strap scale indicating stoop,

the scale to the one side of the midpoint adjacent the scye scale indicating erect.

9. A device as in claim 1 in which said casing is provided with a scale, a pointer carried by said first member normally positioned midway of said scale, the scale to one side of the midpoint adjacent the strap scale indicating stoop, the scale to the one side of the midpoint adjacent the scye scale indicating erect, and means for limiting the movement of said first member.

10. A device as in claim 1 in which said first member carries a scale, a pointer carried by said second member midway of said scale, the scale to one side of the pointer indicating "high shoulders and the scale to the other side of the pointer indicating sloping shoulders.

11. A device as in claim 1 in which said first member carries a scale, a pointer carried by said second member midway of said scale, the scale to one side of the pointer indicating high shoulders and the scale to the other side of the pointer indicating sloping shoulders, and means for limiting the movement of said second member.

12. A device as in claim 1 in which said first member is provided with a scale, a pointer adjacent said third member positioned at the midpoint of said scale, the scale to one side of said midpoint indicating sloping scoulders and the scale to the other side of said midpoint indicating high shoulders.

13. A device as in claim 1 in which said first member is provided with a scale, a pointer adjacent said third member positioned at the midpoint of said scale, the scale to one side of said midpoint indicating sloping shoulders and the scale to the other side of said midpoint indicating high shoulders, and means for limiting the movement of said third member relative to said first member.

14. A device as in claim 1 in which said means for mounting said tape comprises a plurality of rolls, means for driving at least one of said rolls frictionally to transport said tape and means for keeping said tape taut.

15. A device as in claim 1 in which said means for mounting said tape comprises a plurality of rolls, means for driving at least one of said rolls frictionally to transport said tape and means for keeping said tape taut, said means including a roll having an axle, slots formed in said casing for preventing lateral movement of said axle and permitting vertical movement thereof whereby the weight of said roll will keep said tape taut.

16. A device as in claim 1 in which said tape is made of translucent material and means within said casing behind said tape adjacent said windows for illuminating said tape.

1'7. A device as in claim 1 in which said tape includes lines of chest measurements, waist measurements and seat measurements corresponding to the standard sizes.

18. A device as in claim 1 in which said portion of said first member extending over said strap and scye scales is made of transparent material.

19. A device as in claim 1 in which said second member is made of transparent material.

20. A device as in claim 1 in which said third member is made of transparent material.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 361,292 Jackson Apr. 19, 1887 514,063 Call Feb. 6, 1894 456,184 Wolfi July 21, 1894 765,407 Wakefield July 19, 1904 855,272 Barnett May 28, 1907 869,264 Ricciardi Oct. 29, 1907 1,321,253 Simons Nov. 11, 1919 1,612,012 Greenberg Dec. 28, 1926 2,512,285 Nippert June 20, 1950

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