US1612349A - Chart for and method of laying patterns - Google Patents

Description

Dec. 28 1926.

l. H. BERNSTEIN CHART FOR AND METHOD OF LAYING PATTERNS Filed Jan. 2 1925 s Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR Isaac H. BER/brim! ATTORNEYS Dec. 28 192a. 1,612,349 I l. H. BERNSTEIN CHART FOR AND METHOD OE LAYING PATTERNS Filed Jan. 2 1925 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 I I I l I I INVENTOR 5/701: M BERSTEIN ATTORNEYS YWe-d Dec 28, 1926.

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INVENTOR Isa/7c .h. BER/vsTE/N BY M44) ATTORNEYS Patented Dec. 28, 1926.

para STATES ISAAC H. BERNSTEIN, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

CHART FOR AND METHOD OF LAYIIGTG; PATTERNS.

Application filed January This invention relates to improvements in the art of laying patterns, and has particular reference to a method of laying a pattern for suit, over-coats, and other garments, and of a chart to be employed in conjunction with said method.

The laying of patterns for suits and other garments as heretofore presented is a serious problem in the industry and particularly in large establishments where cutters are employed to lay patterns for the simultaneous cutting of a considerable number of suits or the like. Under the present practice, no standard or set method is employed, practically each individual cutter having his own peculiar or characteristic method of procedure in laying apattern in such manner as to reduce to a minimum the waste of material occasioned in the cutting operation.

In making such lays it is usual to start at the left end of the layer of cloth and then work toward the right, first laying the larger pieces of the pattern and thereafter filling in with the smaller pieces. In so doing it is essential that the variousparts of the pattern are laid in the proper direction so that the garments, when completed, will not be made up to shade. Thevfirst lay of the pattern is usually considered only a temporary one as it very often happens that the cutter will find it impossible to lay all the pieces on a given length of material due to the fact that the pieces have been improperly placed. It then becomes necessary for the cutter to revise the lay, or, if this cannot be conveniently done, a certain part or parts of the pattern are left out of the lay and such parts are then cut from the loose ends of the material. In the latter case the use of these loose ends produces what is known as shady garments which must be disposed of by the manufacturer at a considerable loss.

l urthermore, inwhat is known as the special order business it is usually the custom to furnish the cutters with entire bolts of material from which the made to measure garments are cut-singly. This method has the disadvantages that it permits of a too liberal use of the material by the cutters and occasions considerable loss of time in cutting operations should there happen to be a shortage of the particular materials from which the garments are to be made.

The presentmethods of operation take 24, 1925. Serial No. TA-(33.

considerable time even when followed by expert cutters and this, combined with the loss of material and consequent increase in the cost of production, renders such methods unsatisfactory.

An object of the present invention is to overcome the objections above noted by the production of a method and chart to be employed in connection therewith which will greatly facilitate the operation of making a lay and at the sametime accomplish a considerable saving of material and expense.

Another object is to avoid the necessity of repeatedly revising a lay by providing a chart by means of which the position on the material to be cut of each individual piece of a pattern may be definitely ascertained pefore starting the operation of making the The above and other objects will appear more clearly from the following detailed description, when taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, which illustrate a preferred embodiment of the inventive idea.

In the drawings Figures 1 and 1 when placed side by side with Figure 1 at the left of the Figure 1 illustrate a complete 1 made in accordance with the present method and Figure 2 is a plan view of the chart employed in connection with the method.

In carrying out the method of the present invention it will be understood that the same is applicable with equal facility to various systems of cutting material and may be employed when cutting goods for a single garment, or simultaneously cutting the material for a plurality of garments. The material to be cut is given to the cutter, preferably in predetermined lengths which may be varied in accordance with the nature and size of the garment or garments tobe cut. After laying out the material, indicated by the numeral 1 in the drawing, on the cutting table 2, the cutter then proceeds to subdivide the length of material into a plurality of sections or Zones. This is preferably done by employing a plurality of strings or other elements 3 and 4:, the former of which are extended longitudinally of the material and have their ends secured to the cutting table while the latter are laid transversely of the material in intersecting relation to said former elements and also fastened to said table. By so doing the area of the material 1 is sub-divided into a. plurality of rectangular sections and it is desirable that these sections in be of equal size, although this is not absolutely necessary in practice. The number of sections and the outline thereof is also made to correspond to the number and outline of sections illustrated on a chart 5 (Figure which is furnished the cutter with each order for material to be cut.

The chart, which preferably is made from a rectangular base of any suitable material, is provided with a space 6 at its top for containing data utilized to properly identify the pattern, lay, etc. The remainder of the base of the chart is sub-divided into a plurality of rectangular sections, preferably of equal dimensions, by means of coordinates in the form of the horizontal and trans verse lines 7 and 8. In making up the chart, a test la'y is first made which, when completed, has the various pieces constituting a pattern in proper relative position so that the chart may be marked with suitable indicia to indicate the particular position of each individual piece of the pattern. This indicia, which is indicated by the numeral 9 on the chart, preferably is in the form of characters and numerals each enclosed within a circle, but it will of course be understood that other identifying marks may be used with equal facility. In carrying out the system of marking the major pieces of the pattern are designated by letter characters which are, in so far as possible, abbreviations of the particular pieces of the pattern to which they refer while the minor pieces are identified by numerals. Thus the eight letter characters F. (1; B. P.; F. P.; T. 8.; B. 55.; B. (1.; 7.; and X., used in the present illustration for a suit, indicate, respectively, the front of the coat, back of pants, front of pants, top of sleeve, bottom of sleeve, back of coat, vest, and facing of vest, the character X. indicating the last named part, being employed to distinguish from the character F. C. which is applied to the front of the coat. Likewise, the numerals 1 to 9 are used to designate, respectively, top collar of coat, breast welt of coat, lower coat flap, upper vest facing, lower vest facing, bot tom vest facing, waistbaml of trousers, fly of trousers, and pants flap. By reference to Figures 1 and 1" it will be seen that the seventeen pieces constititlting the pattern herein illustrated and used as an example all appear in the lay.

After determining the exact position of each individual piece of the pattern in the test lay. the identifying character or numeral for each piece is marked on the chart and is placed thereon in the same position or relationship that the corresponding piece occupies in the test lay, each character or numeral being preferably positioned to inclicate where the approximate center of the piece of the pattern will come on the lay made prior to the cutting operation.

Further indicia, preferably in the form of arrows 10, is employed in connection with the indicia 9 to indicate the direction in which each piece of the pattern is to be laid and the position of the front edge of said piece relative to one of the edges of the material. Thus in the example shown, each arrow is i'na'de to point in the direction in which the bottom of the piece with which it is associated is to be placed and the position of said arrow with respect to the adjacent indicia 9 indicates where the front edge of said piece is to be arranged near the selvedge edge of the material, or remote therefrom. This system is carried out in each instance, with the exception of the back of the coat, indicated by B. C. on the back of the chart, wherein the arrow is arranged between the circle and the back seam of the piece, the back of the coat not having a front edge.

Thus, in practice, the cutter is furnished with a chart covering a particular order and with the material from which the pattern is to be cut. After the material is properly laid out on the cutting table, the cutter refers to the chart 5 and usually working from the left-hand end of the material knows that the first major piece of the pattern to be laid is the front of the coat indicated by F. (1.. The approximate center of this piece is shown on the chart as falling within the section 11 near the upper longitudinal edge thereof and the direction in which the arrow is pointed and its position between the circle and the selvedge edge marked on the chart indicates that the front edge of the pattern piece should be between the center of the piece and the selvedge edge of the material. The cutter accordingly lays the pattern piece with its bottom ad]acent the left-hand end of the material and the front edge near the selvedge edge of said material. The cutter then proceeds in a like manner to successively lay the various pieces of the pattern in accordance with their indicated positions on the chart until the entire lay is completed. It will he understood, of course, that, with the present method, it is not necessary'tlnit the pieces be laid in any definite order of succession as the laying of the pieces of the pattern may start at any point and each piece placed without following'auy definite order.

In order that the positions of the various parts of the pattern may be easily located in the lay shown in Figures 1 and 1, said parts have been marked with their identifying characters, although in actual practice this would not necessarily have to be done. The number of sections and position and number of the ii'lentifying marks on the chart may be varied at will in accordance with the particular nature of the lay, it being understood that the chart herein shown and described is merely employed for the purpose of illustrating the invention as a whole and not to define the limits thereof, reference being had to the appended claim for this purpose.

What is claimed is:

The method of positioning patterns on material for garments, which consists in sub-dividing a length ofmaterial into a pinrality of sections corresponding in number and outline to designated sections on a chart, there being corresponding distinguishing indicia on the patterns and chart, and then laying on said material the pieces constituting the pattern with their indicia arranged on the sections of material in accordance with the position of the corresponding indicia in the various sections of said chart.

In testimony whereof I have afiixed my signature.

ISAAC I-I. BERNSTEIN.

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