US2211410A - Garment pattern - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 13, 1940.

O. A. DU PONT GARMENT PATTERN Filed NOv. 16, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet l 'xvmsJNN o mod Nn 32u15 Av1 -Lunzls Halma:

SKIRT BACK um aaneen ENO ,1.03 -JHEQ sans -rw I nous BBLNS l SLEEVE INSET USE FCR ANY SIZE [STI-reuma mm3 Fou msswsr rom er mnzmm.

CENTE nnen LAY snr-e on v BLOUSE BACK Lo or MATzmAL cEMERAmvLAY Enna oN Fh :ENTER FRoNrwMwizoN Fam oF HATERsAL INVENTOR, Oscar H.' D11/Pont ATTORNEY.

Aug. 13, 1940. o. A. DU PONT 2,211,410

` GARMENT PATTERN Filed Nov. 16, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 COLLAR STRAIGHT 0F CENTER BAC INVENTOR.

Oscar A. Dupon?L A RNEY.

Patented Aug. 13, 1940 U STATES GARMENT PATTERN Oscar A. Du Pont, Berlin, N. H., assigner to Du Pont Pattern Corporation, a corporation of New York Application November 16, 1938, Serial No. 240,652

1 Claim.

rlhis invention relates to patterns for cutting the material in the making of garments and more particularly to the type of pattern in which the several parts constituting the whole pattern for 5 a garment of any type or style are assembled in a single sheet with the parts arranged to lie in the proper direction relative to the length of the material or straight-of-goods to be cut, and to afford the minimum waste of material in the D cutting, and which patterns are mainly intended for individual use and not for the production of stock garments.

Heretofore in the preparation of such single sheet patterns it was the practice to delineate i and assemble the pattern parts on one sheet for a given size garment, and which pattern sheet was designed to be laid and secured in position upon the material either in single or double thickness, and in cutting the user followed the dei lineation lines and cut simultaneously through both the pattern and material. This plan provided certain advantages in that it aided in the cutting of the material with the minimum waste and greater accuracy, but where the garment was i designed to be made up of several different materials, for instance, in a dress having a slirt of one material and a bodice or blouse of different material, or certain parts such as sleeves, or inserts of different material or materials, it was necessary to first cut out the pattern parts from the single sheet and then employ the several pattern parts in the manner of the old type patterns comprising a multiplicity of separate sheets and encounter the difficulties which the single sheet pattern was designed to overcome. Another disadvantage was that no provision was made for variations from the standard size for which the single sheet pattern was designed, particularly where the various garment parts were arranged in the closest possible grouping to entail the least possible Waste of material. In such case it became necessary to cut out the designs for the several parts and arrange them separately on the material to be cut in the manner of the old separate pattern parts and allow for variations from standard size as the cutting proceeded.

The object of this invention is to provide -a single sheet pattern on which is delineated a plurality or sequence of standard garment sizes with the delineations of the several similar parts for the different sizes superposed in size sequence, thus economizing in the cost of production of such pattern sheets, reducing the number of pattern sheets required to be carried in stock by dealers, and permitting the sale to users at a much lower price.

Another object is to provide such multiple pattern sheetsk with a simple method for readily altering the pattern or departing from one of 5 the given garment sizes to afford a composite of the several given sizes before cutting or during the actual cutting of the material for the garment Where the garment is to be made of the same material throughout, or for cutting out the 1o several pattern parts for use as separate pattern parts where the garment parts are to be made of two or more different materials.

The invention is illustrated in ing drawings,in which'- Figure 1 is a plan view of a single sheet pattern having delineated thereon the several pattern parts for a complete garment in three standard sizes, like parts being superposed, and

Figure 2 an enlarged plan View of a section of 20 the pattern sheet of Figure 1 taken on the line 2 2 and shown applied to folded material to be cut. i

Referring to the drawings, A and B indicate two longitudinal halves of the pattern sheet 25 which may be cut on the dotted line C, or line C may represent a lineof perforations for severing the two halvesfor separate application to the material to be cut when the material is folded for cutting' in double thickness. In Figure l is 30 illustrated the pattern parts for a conventional type of garment comprising a skirt, a blouse with f sleeves, collar and belt. The skirt pattern is arranged in four sections comprising the front D, back E, side front F and side back G. The blouse 35 pattern is arranged in six sections comprising front H, back I, sleeve K, collar L, and facing pieces M and N. The pattern sheet also includes the patterns for a belt O and an inset P which may be used if desired. 40

In Figure 1 of the drawings Islllustrated as a sample the arrangement'for superposing like pattern parts for a sequence of standard sizes, which for instance, are-given as 32, 34 and 36. Sincer the material for garments is produced in standard widthsQsingleV sheet patterns are designed and arranged to indicate bythe length of the pattern sheet, the lengthV- of material required to complete the garment. It is also customary to delineate each'patternpart for the garment sections, with certain exceptions, to represent onehalf of such'garment section so that the material from which the garment parts are'to be cut may be folded generally on the longitudinal center and so that when the pattern ,is appliedto the 55 the accompanymaterial and the cutting proceeds, a double thickness of material will be cut to provide the full width for each such section. Thus, in Figure 1, the width of the pattern sheet is comparable to the width of the material, and the length of material required for the garment parts depicted by the pattern will be twice the length of the pattern.

Where seams are permissible or desired to complete certain sections of the garment by joining the two halves of such part, as for instance, the skirt front D, skirt back E, blouse front H and blouse back I, the material may be cut in single thickness by applying the full width of the pattern sheet as seen in Figure 1 to the material, and repeating the application to the remaining material. Where, however, such seams are not permissible or desirable, and the parts indicated are to be cut to the respective full widths, the pattern sheet is severed along the line C, and each half is applied to the material after folding same on the longitudinal center. Thus the material when folded will be equal in width to the pattern sections A or B, and each of these pattern halves is applied to the folded material with the center lines a and b, respectively, aligned on the fold of the material R, Figure 2, so that in cutting the parts D and E or H and I, for instance, such parts will be cut double thickness to provide those parts in the full width.

In the multiple-pattern sheet shown in Figure l, and as it will be printed for use, the superposed pattern sections are outlined by lines of different thickness and indicated by the size numbers 32, 34 and 3,6. To provide for variations from the standard sizes delineated in each pattern sheet, the plurality of similar pattern sections delineated thereon in superposed position are provided with cross-connecting lines.

Thus, on the skirt pattern sections the crossconnecting lines 3 and 4 are indicated in broken lines on skirt parts F and G for changes in waist and hip measurements. In practice these crossconnecting lines will be printed on the pattern sheet in broken lines to distinguish them from the standard size outlines, and according to the type or style garment the cross-connecting lines may be varied from the illustrations herein described.

In the illustration, Figure 1, the user of the pattern if cutting for a 32 size skirt, for instance, will follow the 32 size outline throughout. If the hip measurement is to be increased to a 34 size Without change of waist measure, the cutting from the waist lines at point f and g of parts F-G will follow cross-connecting line 3 to the hip line and then continue along the 34 size line, or if the change at the hip line is to increase to the 36 size, the cutting from points f and g will follow cross-connecting line 4 and then continue on the 36 size line.

For the bodies or blouse pattern sections the cross-connecting lines indicated on parts H and I extend both ways between the points h-h' and i-z", respectively, and both ways at the arm-hole outlines and shoulder slope outlines. That is, for part H from point h on size line 32 a pair of cross-connecting lines 5 extend respectively to point It on the size lines 34 and 36, and from point h on size line 32 a cross-connecting line 6 extends to point h on size line 34. From point h on size line 34 a pair of cross-connecting lines 1 extend respectively to the point h on size line 36 and to a point at or near the dart in size line 36, and from thefpoint h' on size line 34 crossconnecting lines 8 and 9 extend respectively to a point at or near the dart in size line 32 and point h on size line 36. For the part I cross. connecting lines similar to lines 5, 6, '1, 8 and 9 just described in connection wtih part H are provided. These cross-connecting lines for the bodice or blouse pattern parts provide definite guides for variations in waist and bust measurements from the standard given sizes. At the arm-hole outlines of part H, a pair of cross-connecting lines i0, Figure 2, extend from point h2 at the shoulder line of size line 32 respectively to the darts on the size line 34 and 36, From the point h2 on size line 34 a pair of cross-connecting lines Il extend respectively to the darts on the size lines 32 and 36, and from the point h2 on size line 36 extend a pair of cross-connecting lines l2 respectively to the darts on the size lines 32 and 34. For the arm-hole outlines of part I crossconnecting lines similar to pairs I0, il and i2 on part H are provided between the point i2 and the darts. At the shoulder slope outlines cross-connecting lines I3 and I4 respectively extend between the points h2 and h3 on part H and points i2 and i3 part I from size line 32 to size line 36, as shown on part H in Figure 2, to provide for variations in the shoulder slope.

The sleeve pattern outlines indicate the relative lengths and widths for the standard garment sizes 32, 34 and 36 as indicated thereon, and from the point 7c on each size line cross-connecting lines extend upward from the larger to the next smaller size, respectively. From the points lc the cross-connecting lines extend downward the larger to the next smaller size respectively.

In practice the cross-connecting lines for the sleeves will vary in length according to the style sleeve, and may extend in both directions, the lines indicated in this instance on part K, Figure l, being illustrative only.

For the garment parts L, M, N and O variation lines need not be provided, the size and center lines indicated on the pattern being suicient. In addition to the features above described, the

pattern parts are provided with the usual parts indicating matching and gathering points, and other instructions for the user which are usual in garment patterns and therefore need not be referred to specifically.

It will be apparent that changes may be made in the number, direction and connecting points of the cross-connecting lines for the several parts in garment patterns, and that various other changes may be made in the pattern outlines for the several parts of a garment to adapt the pattern to different styles of garments without departing from the scope of this invention, and that the several pattern parts may be arranged in any desired grouping to facilitate cutting of the garment material, and to provide the necessary space for instructions to users and other useful information.

As an illustration of a modification of the pattern parts, the patterns may provide for a gown in which the bodice and skirt are to be made in one piece. In such case modified pattern parts H and I would be combined with modiod skirt parts D, E, F and G, but the cross-connecting lines 3 and 4 of the skirt sections and the various cross-connecting lines of the parts H and I would be retained.

What I claim is:

A garment pattern consisting of a single sheet having thereon a series of outlines for a full complement of garment sections, said sheet having parallel longitudinal marginal lines forming the center line of garment sections laid out along said lines, each pattern section outline of the essential pattern sections for a garment comprising a plurality of similar outlines arranged with their sides parallel and forming a sequence of garment sizes, crossing lines connecting the extremities of the sides of adjacent similar out-lines to provide for siZe variations from the sequence of garment sizes, indices at each of the similar outlines for matching the garment material sections for sewing, and said single sheet having'a central longitudinal guide line for severing the pattern sheet into two parts to be placed end to end upon the garment material.

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