US438607A

US438607A - Adjustable pattern for drafting garments

Info

Publication number: US438607A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1890-10-21
Anticipated expiration: 1907-10-21

Description

(No Model.) I 3 SheetsSheet 1. H. A. CURRY. ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS. No. 438,607.

Patented Oct. 21,1890.

W12 WESSE'S THE NORRIS versus co., Puormurhm, wAsmNGYaN, u c,

(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 2. H. A. CURRY. ADJU$TABLE PATTERN FOR DRAPTING GARMENTS.

No. 438,607. Patented Oct. 21, 1890.

W12 IVESSES 3 Sheets-Sheet 3.

(.No Model.)

H. A. CURRY.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOR DRAITING GARMENTS. NOL43'8,607. Patented Oct. 21, 1890.

[I I! III Ill II III III llll ill rJ IIIII WITNESSES Z/VVE'JVIOfl UNTTED STATES PATENT QFETQE.

HARRIET A. CURRY, OF GROTON, (DAKOTA TERRITORY,) SOUTH DAKOTA.

ADJUSTAB LE PATTERN FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent NO. 438,607, dated October 21, 1890.

Application filed May 1, 1889. Serial No. 309,307. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, HARRIET A. CURRY, a

' citizen of the United States, residing at Grosame.

My invention consists of the improved adjustable dress-pattern hereinafter to be more particularly described and claimed.

In the drawings, Figure 1 represents the back piece of the pattern. Fig. 2 represents the front piece. Fig. 3 represents the sleevepattern, and Fig. 4: represents a rule.

In an adjustable dress-pattern it is desirable that the utmost adj ustability and extensibility in all directions should be secured. To accomplish this I have designed the pattern here illustrated and described, in which the three pieces M, L, and S form what is called the center-back of the pattern, and are held together by thumb-screws passing through the slots 20 and w of the slides W and X and through the vertical slots 3 s in the piece S. The pieces M and L are also capable of an independent adjustment one to the other by means of the thumb-screws mounted on the extension-pieces O and P and passing through the slots m and Z and the slot 10' in the bar W. The strips 0 and N form What is called the neXt-to-back piece, and are supported on the bars WV and X by suitable thumb-screws passing through slots 0 o and n n, which give the piece a nearly vertical adjustment. The two strips are also held together and given an independent adjustmentone to the other by means of the thumbscrews passing through the slots 1; and z in the short bars V and Z. In the same way the strips Q and P form what is called the underarm piece. They are given a nearly vertical adjustment by means of the slots (1 q and p p and an independent adjustment with respect to one another by means of the short bars Uand Y, having slots a and y. The adjustable pieces R R R, 850., are held by the thumb-screws which pass through the slotted bar X, and are for the skirt or drapery below the waist.

In Fig. 2, which represents the front pattern, the part E alone or together with the extension N forms the arm-hole. The extension N is controlled by means of the curved slot 6, in which a thumb-screw and pin slide. The piece E is adjustable on the bar K by means of the thumb-screw e, which passes through the slot is. The piece 0 has its upper end D so cut away as to form the neck-opening. It has an extension M, which is capable of vertical adjustment by means of the thumbscrews T T, operating in the slots (Z d. The part B, which is laterally adjustable at top and bottom by means of the horizontal slots and the slotted bar J, forms what is called the swell front or French bias.

The strips 0, G, and H form the dart portions. They are adj ustably connected together by means of the bar J, having the slot Thumb-screws pass through this slot and through the vertical slots 1), c, g, h, and '0' into the extension-piece A A A, &c., which latter determine the shape of the pattern below the waist-line. The parts G and II are adjustably connected together by means of the thumb-screws h, passing through the slot g, and G is adj ustably connected to the piece 0 by means of the vertical slot and thumb-screws g. The piece I is adjustable to the right and left by means of the thumb-screws working in the slotted bars K and J, as shown. The armhole-piece E is independently adj ustable with reference to the piece D by means of the thumb-screws and bar F, having the slot f.

The sleeve-pattern shown in Fig. 3 consists of the four parts B, O, D, and E, connected by suitable thumb-screws and slotted bars, as shown. The bars II and L running crosswise are straight, but the bars F and G running lengthwise are curved and have curved slots, so that the proper curvature of outline of the pattern may be preserved when the same is extended.

X, Fig. 4, is a preferred form of rule to be used with my invention, though any ordinary rule might be used.

The method of operation of my invention will from its construction be evident to those skilled in the art of pattern-cutting. The under-arm and neXt-to-back pieces are moved to the left, Fig. 1, to the proper distance on slides IV and X to allow for fullness in skirt or drapery and to secure perfect fit below waist-line. The slide X is raised or lowered in slots 5' Z W, 850., to correspond to. correct length of waist. The slide S is raised so that the distance from its upper end to slide X shall equal the distance from back of the neck to waist-line. The extensions 0 P are raised so as to correspond one to the other and to the adjustment of S. The 1111- der-arm piece is set so that the distance from the top of piece to the slide X equals the under-arm waist-measure of the person to be fitted. The curved slot on causes the extension 0 to move so that the proper curvature of outline of the armhole is preserved. The slide J, Fig. 2, should be so adjusted that the length of the piece I above it shall be equal to the under-arm waist-measure and the position of the part I should be such that the distances measured from it along the slides K and J to the left-hand edge, Fig. 2', of the pattern shall be equal to a little more than a quarter of the circular bust and waist measures, respectively, of the person to be fitted. The sleeve-pattern, Fig. 3, is set to the dim ensions obtained by measuring from shoulder to wrist and around the arm-at the top, elbow, and wrist. The upper and under part of sleeve are drafted from the same pattern, the width, however, of the under part being only two-fifths of the complete circular measure, while the width of the upper part is taken at three-fifths of said measure. The measure must be taken with care-front bust from arm to arm across chest; back bust from arm to arm corresponding with front bust; circular bust around body one inch below and under arm; from highest point of shoulder (at neck) to line of circular bust measure and at right angles with same; back of neck to waistline; circular waist measure around smallest part of body and from under arm to waistline. Allowance for all seams must be made and usual one-half inch for laps where parts are to be joined together after the garment is completed.

It is understood, of course, that the distance measured on the slide-bar J is one-fourth waist-measure plus the amount taken out by the darts--11 8., the distance from C to G and from G to II along J, Fig. 2.

Having therefore described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to protect by Letters Patent, is

1. In an adjustable dress-pattern, the combination of parts forming the pattern for the back of the dress-waist, composed of the center-back, the neXt-to-back, and the under-arm portions, each laterally and vertically adj ustable on two slotted cross-slides, substantially as described.

2. In an adjustable dress-pattern,the combination of parts forming the pattern for the back of the dress-waist, composed of the center-back, the next-to-back,andthe underarm portions, each laterally and vertically ad j ustable on two slotted slides and each of said portions being composed of two or more subordinate parts, which parts are independently adjustable with respect to each other, substantially as described.

3. In an adjustable dresspattern, the combination of parts forming the pattern for the back of the dress-waist, composed of the center-back, the neXt-to-back, and the under-arm portions, each laterally and vertically adj ustable on two slotted slides and each of said portions being composed of two or more subordinate parts, which parts are independently adjustable with respect to each other, together with a numberof adjustable extension-pieces below the lower cross-slide, substantially as described.

4. In an adjustable dress-pattern, the combination of parts forming the pattern for the back of the dress waist, composed of the center-back, the neXt-to-back, and the underarm portions, each laterally and vertically adjustable on two slotted slides and each of said portions being composed of two or more subordinate parts, which parts are independently adjustable with respect to each other, together with a number of adjustable extension-pieces below the lower cross-slide and the adjustable extensions on the upper end of the center-back portion, substantially as described.

5. In an adjustable dress-pattern, the combination of parts forming the pattern for the front of the dress-waist, composed of the main piece 0, cut away at the top to form the neckopening, the dart-pieces G and II, and the piece I, adjustably attached to O by means of thumb-screws and slotted slides, the armholeforming piece E, independently adjustable with reference to the other parts by means of its circular motion about its point of attachment to said other parts and the lateral adjustability of said point of attachment, and the independently-adjustable strip B, substantially as described.

6. In an adjustable dress-pattern, the combination of parts forming the pattern for the front of the dress-waist, composed of the main piece 0, cut away at the top to form the neckopening, the dart-pieces G and II, and the piece I, adj ustably connected to C by means of th Limb-screws and slotted slides, the armhole-forming piece E, independently adjustable with reference to the other parts by means of its circular motion about its point of attachment to said other parts and the lateral adj ustability of said point of attachment, and the independently-adj ustable strip B,together with the adjustable extension-pieces A A A A A", substantially as described.

7. In an adjustable dress-pattern, the combination of parts forming the pattern for the front of the dress-waist, composed of the main piece 0, cut away at the top to form the neckopening, the dart-pieces G and H, and the piece IIO I, adjustably connected to O by means of thumb-screws and slotted slides, the armholeforming piece E, independently adjustable With reference to the other parts by means of its circular motion about its point of attachment to said other parts and the lateral adj ustability of said point of attachment, and the independently-adjustable strip B, together with the adjustable extension-pieces AA A" A A"", and the adjustable extensions for the [0 pieces forming the armhole and neck-opening, substantially as described.

HARRIET A. CURRY. \Vitnesses:

GEO. H. L. ERWIN, JOHN W. CURRY.