US1168803A - Tailor's drafting-chart. - Google Patents

Description

6.1. HAVRILLA.

TAILORS DRAFTING CHART.

APPLICATION FILED FB.5,1915.

1,168,803. Patented Jim. 18, 1916.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

GEZA J'. HAVRILLA, OF ERIE, PENNSYLVANIA.

TAILORS .DRAFTING-CHART.

rinasce.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Jan. I8, 1916.

Application led February 5, 1915. Serial N o. 6,296. i

To all whom t may concern.' l y Be it known that I, GEzA J. HAVRILLA, a citizen of the United States, residing at Erie, in the county of Erie and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Tailors Drafting Charts; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of, the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon, forming part of this specification.

My invention relates to making of garment patterns, and the object thereof is to make a' chart, and formulate a system, to be used with saidchart, whereby garment patterns may be laid out according to any desired bust measure, or which may be used to lay out garment patterns according to special measure.

The features of my invention are hereinafter pointed out and explained and are illustrated in the accompanying drawing, in which Y Figure 1, illustrates the right hand part of my improved chart for layingout garment patterns. Fig. 2, illustrates that portion of my improved chart broken ofil at the left hand side of Fig. 1.

I construct this chart as follows, viz: At the right hand edge of a sheet of paper I make a line B, which representsthe center of the back of a garment; the point A, being at the yneck-line and the point B, thelower end of said line, which may be extended to any desired length. For the purpose of laying out the chart I extend the line A-B, somewhat above the point A, and from a.y point on this extension, three quarters ,of an inch above the point A, I draw a line B', at right angles thereto, across the top of the paper. At a point on the line B nine and five-eighths (92) inches from'the line AB, I place a point c, and on the line A-B, between the line B', and the point A, one half) inch kabove the point A, I place a point c', and from the point c, to the point c', I draw a line C. At a point on the line C, oneand one half (1%) inches fromthe line A-B, I locate one yend of a neck-scale C', saidr neck-scale C',

being one and Viive-eighths (leg) inches in length, the same being sub-divided asmay be'desred; but I prefer fourteen sub-di- However, for the purpose of twenty-eight, thirty, thirty-two, `thirty-four,

thirty-six, thirty-eight, forty, forty-two, forty-four, forty-six,`fortyeight, fifty, each of said numbers representing a bust measure of as many inches. I next make a point a', five and one-half inches below the point A, in the back-line A-B, from which I extend a right angle line, (see broken line a2) which indicates the depth of the arm-hole, in the smallest garment for which the pattern is adapted, below the point A. From the line A--B, I measure along the broken line a2, a distance of twelve inches, being one half of the smallest bust measure, to a point a3. I then rule parallel lines below the line a2, one-eighth of an inch apart, one line for each size of bust; said sizes being in inches, from twenty-four to fifty; thelast line representing the fifty inch bust measure, measuring twenty-live inches from the line A-B. From the outer end of the last or fifty-inch bust line, I draw a line D, to the pointl a3, on the broken line a2; the intersections of thel line D, with the line a?, and the parallel broken lines thereunder, indi-v cate the different bust measures from twenty-four inches to fty inches. I next measure forward eight and one-eighth inches on the line c2, from the line rfi-B, and make a point at, thereon, I then measure forward on the lower-most of said parallel lines representing the fty-inch bust measure, a distance of fifteen and threeeights (151g) inches from the line A-B, where I make a point a5, and I draw a line E, from the point c, to the point a5, which crosses the intervening parallel bust measure lines, said intersections forming a scale 1E, by which the front of the arm-hole may be established. I then make a point Z), one and one-quarter (l) inches back en the line a2, from the point a4; and I make a point b', on the lower-most parallel line representing a fty-inch bust measure two and one-quarter (2%) inches back Vfrom the point (L5, and then draw a line F, from-the point b, to thepoint b', the saine crossing the intervening parallel bust measure lines; said intersections being the sub-divisions of said line-F, into a scale -forlocating the lower edge of the arm-hole opening, and also the upper end of the sideseam .ofthe garment.4

I then make a point b2, on'the line a2, four and one half (Il) inches from the pointu', l on the line A-B, and on the lower-most lof said bust measure llines representingafiiftyY inch bust, I make a point b3, eight and threeeighths (8%) inches from" the backline y G, withfthe parallel bust measure lines, are

respectively nmnberedroml twenty-four Vto Vfifty, although the drawing inthis application only, shows every othery size,`becausfe-of the fact that in reducing the chart to Patent Office size, it was necessary to omit every alternate bust measure linef, I next draw a straight line H, from the-point a3, inthe scale D,'to the point twenty-four in the scale C', and I'drawfa straight 4line HQrom the outer or lower end' of the line D',to the point marked `lift-y, on the neck-scale C'. Ithen make a point It, on the line I-Ijfour inches downward from the point twenty-fourin the neck-scaleC'. I then make a pointvb'-, onthe line I'I', seven inches downward from thepoint fty on. the neck-scale C', and draw a line H2, from `thepoint la, to the point 7L', and then ,divide said lineinto a scale, having twenty-seven equally spaced sub-dividingV points including the 4terminal Vpoints L, and h', whichV are numbered Y from twenty-four to fifty inclusive.V Ifthen rplace Va .point d, on the line A-B,oneand three quarters (15;) inchesabovethepoint a", thereon', and draw aline 'IrfromA theV point c, inthe line C, tothepoint d, inthe'line Al-B'; and on the line I, Iplace a point/d' four inches downward thereon from" the point c.V I then place apointdfongth'e line A-B, one and Vone-quarterH (1%) inches above the'point a", on :saidjline` I then draw a-*straight scale 'lineiJ,` from the point A, through the point`c,'th`e ksaine extending beyond'the 4point c, nine-l andoneouarter (Si)l inches, which is sub'diyided" into twentyseven'points, including the point c, whichl are numbered fromvtwent'V-four'to fifty inclusive.` From the terminal point of the-scale J, indicated by'thenumberifty, which is bro-ken off in Fig.v land shown'y in Fig. 2, I draw a line I', to the point d2," in the line A'-B.` Ithen make a point cl3, in the'lineI' seven'rinches 'backward from the pointvmark'ediifty in the scale J, and drawa line J', from the point d', tothe point d3, whichIsub-d-ii'fideintotw'enty seven rpoints vincluding-'the points'ol' and vda,

and numbered from twenty-four to fifty, in- Y elusive. left -o-fa the point c, I commence a bust seam On the line B', two inches to the scale K, which is eleven and three-eighths (1l-g)`v inches long and is equally sub-divided by twenty-seven points numbered from :twentyffo'ur to fifty. Underneaththe point c, onefquarter inch, I place a point k, and

'two and three-quarters (2) inches underneath the point fifty on the scale J, I make a point k', and from the point Z0, to thepoint /,1I draw a line K'. This line K', is. subdivided by lplacing scale points thereongperpendicularly above each of the scale points on `the line 1D, as shown by the line la?. v At a pointon the lineA-B, iive and` one-half (5g) inchesbelow thepoint a', yI placea point R, which indicates the waist line for a twenty-four inch bust v-measuregarment; and -rom the point R, 'I'project a line R', forward at right'angles to the line ATB, a distance `of twelve inches .to a point/i', which' is one-half of thewaist line vfor size twenty-four. Underneath the linev R' and parallel therewith, I place parallel lines r', which' are preferably one-half' inch: apart, which gradually become closer together as they reach v the size fifty at the extremebottom of. the waist line scale. On each of the parallel lines underneath the line R', I

YAf-B I'thenV draw` a Vline throughlthe points R3, Rj-R andR?, lwhich intersects all of the waist measure lines :from twenty-.four to fifty; said intersections ,beingl numbered from` twentyffo'ur to fifty, and formV 'the scale side-line Q', for the side'l seams of the garment.,

At the point B, fiveand 4;'o`ne-half vinches below the 'pointfIL I ldraw'a right angle line I placeV point R3 iisV S, seven-and three-eighthsg(7-) inches to a point @,zwhich is iscale for front `hip measure for 'size twenty-four. Underneath the line S', I :make a series'of parallel lines num'- bered fromtwenty-fou'r to fifty, and each of whichis' -ive and. one-half (5.1i) inches bes', s2 and s3, the intersections of whichA line with the hip measure lines, being numbered from twenty-four to fifty, forms the hip measure scaleS'.. Scale T, is formed by drawing lines T', through the respective scale points in scale F and scale Q, extending same downward to cross each of said hip measure lines below the liney S, and the points of crossing being numbered from twenty-four to fifty, and forms the scale T, for the lower end of side seam over hip.

In making my improved chart I perforate the paper at each scale point numbered from twenty-four to fifty, so that when the chart is used to lay out a pattern, the pattern paper may have small holes punched or otherwise marked therein'through the perforated scale points on the chart.

To make a pattern by bust measure I lay my chart upon the pattern paper; then for making a garment pattern for twenty-four bust measure, for example, I perforate or otherwise mark the pattern paper through the perforated points A, B, the point B, be* ing on the line A-B, in line with the points twenty-four in the scales S and T, marks the lower end of the garment, and the point A, indicates the neck-line at the middle of the back. I then perforate the pattern paper through all of the points numbered twenty-four in the neck-scale C', the scales H2, J, J', D, E, F, G, R2, Q, S and T, thus marking on the pattern paper the points A, B, 0, c2, al', h, at, b, b2, a3, R3, r, and 24, in each of said scales. I then draw a line from A, to B a curved neck line 2, from A,to point o2; a straight shoulder line 3, between points 02, and L; an elliptically curved line 4;, from the point h, in the scale H2, through the point I), of the scale F, and to the point cl', in the scale J to assist in laying out this arm-hole line 4, a line may be drawn from the point b2, on the scale G, to the point h, on the scale H2, and a short line may be squared up from the point at, at the -top scale E, which lines will assist in laying out the armhole line 4. The points b, d and h, indicate the upper and lower extremes of the arm hole. F rom the point cl', to the point c, I draw the front shoulder line 5, which will be of the same length as the rear shoulder line 3. From the point c, to the point 7a2, in the scale K', I draw the front neck-line 6. From the point k2, I draw the front line 7a3, downward through the points a3 and r, to the bottom of the garment pattern, indicated by the line S, drawn through the points numbered twenty-four in the scales S' and T. The result will be a pattern for the smallest size garment for children. Larger size patterns can be laid out by using a larger bust measure, and following the corresponding size in all of the scales.

Having thus shown and described the con- 'ter baclcline the upper end of which indicates the neck-line, a series of points on said baclcllne `from which bust measurement lines are projected at right angles to said backline a distance of one-half of the bust measw urement and terminate in a bust scale, a rear neck scale on line C, commencing at the point c2, thereon, and extending forwardly therefrom; a rear shoulder scale extending from a point in line I-I, to a point in line H; a frontneck scale commencing atthe point c, in line J, and extending forwardly thereon; and a front shoulder scale extending forwardly from a point in line I,to a point in line I', so arranged and positioned with relation to each other that the front and rear shoulder lines of a pattern may be determined therefrom, substantially as set forth.

2. A chart for designing garment patterns having thereon a line representing the center back-line, the upper end of which indicates the back neck-line, a series of hust measure points on said line, from which bust measure lines are projected at right angles to said back-line a distance of one-half of a bust measure and terminate in a bust measure scale, a rear-neck scale commencing at a point c2, on the line C, and extending forwardly thereon; a rear shoulder scale commencing at the point 71 in the line H, and extending forwardly to the point It', in the line H'; a front neck scale commencing at the point c, in the line J, and extending forwardly therefrom; and a front shoulder scale commencing at the point CZ', in the line I, and extending forwardly to the point cl3, in the line I', so arranged and positioned with relation to each other that the front and rear shoulder lines of a pattern may be determined therefrom; waist-line measurement points on said backeline from which waist measurement lines are projected at right angles one-half of a waist-line measurement and terminate in a waist-line scale,

and a front neck scale having points thereon in line with the scale points in the bust and waist scales, substantially as described.

3. A chart for designing garment patterns having a line thereon representing the backline of a pattern, a series of bust measurement points on said line numbered from 24 upward, bust measure lines projected forwardly from each of said points at right angles to said back-line one-half of the bust measure which terminate in a bust scale, front and rear arm-hole scales between said bust scale and said back-line, anda scale between said arm-hole scales for locating the loweredge of the arm-hole7 substantially as set` forth. 1 Y

4i A chart for designing garment` patterns having thereon a back-'line numbered. from l24e upward, waist measurement, Vpoints on saidy line from which, waist measure lines i project atright angles a distance ofk one-half having a backline, a waist line scale on said .I back-line, a hip-.lineseale thereon belowsaid waist scale, the` points in said hipfline scale on` said.` back-line being. equi-distant from each. point in said waist line scale thereon, lines projecting forward from* each point-on said. hip-line scale andI terminating in an irregular front hip scale andl a. side hip-line scale between said front hip-line scale. and said; back-line, substantially as-and for the purpose set forth,

Intestimony whereofI aHiX my signature, in presence of two witnesses.

i GEZA J. HAVRILLA. Witnesses:

S. H. DRoW-N, H. M. SVTURGEON.

Copies of this patent may be obtained forve cents each, by addressing theV Commissioner of Patents,V

v Washington, D. C.

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