US266137A - Pattern-draft - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.)

J. LA RUE GROVES.

PATTERN DRAFT. 110.266,13?. Patented Oct. 17, 1882.

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UNT-Tan STATES PATENT Ormea@ JOHN LA RUE GROVES, OF ELIZABETH, NEW JERSEY.

PATTERN-DRAFT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 266,137, dated October 17, 1882.

Application filed March 16, i882. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, JoHN LA RUE GRovns, a citizen ofthe United States, anda resident of Elizabeth, in the county of Union and State ot' New Jersey, haveinvented anew and valuable Improvement in Pattern-Drafts; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description ofthe construction and operation ot' the same, reference being had lo the annexed drawing, making` a part of this specitication, and to the letters and figures oi' reference markedt-hereon.

The figure ot' the drawing isa representation ot' a plan view ot' this invention.

This inventicn has relation to drafted patterns for the use of tailors, mantua-makcrs, and others; and iti-consists in providing printed pattern-drafts ot' garments having outlines varying for the same size and base-lines and scales or graduated lines-thereon, serving as guides l'or producing a pattern for a standard form, a stooping form, or an erect form, as will be hereinafter fully described, and pointed out in the claims.

The object of this invention is to Facilitate the work ot' cutters, and to provide generally for the production ot' drafted patterns ot'exact and perfect character; and to this end it is designed to furnish the cutter with a guide in the shape ot' a printed pattern-draft having the outlines and base-lines and scales duly printed where required, so that heis enabled at once, after making his measurements on the person, to cut the pattern to correspond.

In the accompanying drawing, the invention is illustrated by means ot the printed patterndraft ot a gentlemans sack-coat, and it is designed to provide such printed pattern-drafts for dress-coats, trousers, ladies dresses, and other garments.

In the drawing, the letter A designates the paper or cloth, dark paper being preferred, on which the guidelines, scales, and base-lines are printed. One pattern-draft is printed for each size, the pattern illustrated being, forinstance, designed for a size corresponding to thirty-six inches breast-measure and thirtythree inches waist-measure.

B indicates the front; G, the back; D, the outside sleeve; E, the inside sleeve, and F the collar. In each part the letter a indicates the base-li-nes, run ning verticallyv and horizontally and intersecting each other at the points et measurement. In the front pattern the uppermost horizontal line, a', is the shoulder-line, the next extending under the arm-scye is the breast-line a, below this is the waist-line a'", and below this the seat-line at. The'tirst vertical line is the front line, c, which is intersected at the breast-line b v the front center line, c',

which extends downward beyond the front line. The front scye-line, c, extends vertically from the shoulder-line a downward along the front of the arm-scye.

d indicates the main or standard outline, ruuning tangent to 'the shoulder-line, breast-line, and front scye-line, and intersecting the other base-lines, as indicated in the drawings. Gertain variations in the pattern will be required for each size, depending upon the carriage ot" the person, whether it be a regular or standard carriage, a stooping, or au erect carriage. For the stooping-pattern the outline of the neck is made lower, the front is increased, the shoulder is deepened, and the arm-scye is more acute, intersecting the front scye-linc. Y These variations are indicated by the dotted ordit'- ferently-colored outline c. erect carriage the Variations in the outline are dii'erent. The neck and shoulder being raised, the neck having less depth, the upper portion ot the front is decreased, and the arm-scye angle is more erect, not reaching to the front scye-line. These variations are indicated by the dotted or differently-colored outline g.

In the back-pattern the base-lines are the neck-line, breast-line, waist-line, and seat-line, which are intersected by the vertical back-line h and the oblique back center line, h', which intersects the back-line at the breast-line'. The standard outline ofthe back is indicated at The variation c is the outlinet'or the stoopingpattern, being longer in the shoulder and higher in the neck; and gis the outline for the erect-pattern, being shorter in the shoulder and lower in the neck. These variation guidelines are designed to he printed in dotted lines, or else in colors dil'ering from each other and from the standard outline.

Accurate scales or graduated marks are For an especially IOO printed across the shoulder-lines, as at s, at the upper and lower ends of the back-line, as at z and z', on a prolongation ot' the neck-curve from the front, as at a, across the back-scye, as at t', across the waist-line, as at 1,0, across the breast-line, as at t, and at sueh other places as may be found advisable. Afterthe measurements are taken these scales serve to enable the cutter to nete them at onee on the patternpaper, the use of tape-lines and graduated rules and squares beingdispensed with in draftinzg,r the exact pattern or Cuttingl it from the drafted pattern.

The sleeve-patterns I) and E are also printed with base lines a extending' longitudinally and transversely, as indi'eated in the drawing, and accurate seales are printed along' the elbow portion, as at t' and fr', at the wrist, as at m, and at the shoulder, as at n. The graduations r and 1", printed along' the elbow portion, indicate the lengths from theI shoulder down, the figures increasing' upward, so that the pattern can be lengthened or shortened without altering the style and balance ot' the sleeve; and thefront portions of theouter and inner sleeve patterns are provided at their upper and lower ends with transverse correlative printed measurements or marks I I and I and 1 2 3,whieh are reversed in position on one of the patterns with relation to their position on the other, and serve to enable the cutter to readily supply a deficiency in cloth in one part ot the sleeve by making a correslionding increment in the outline ot' the other part.

Having` deseribed this invention, what I elaim, and desire to secure by Letters Iatent, 1s

l. Printed pattern-drafts ot' garments, having' outlines d, c, and g, varying,r for the same size, and scales or graduated lines thereon, servingr as guides, substantially as specified.

2. Printed pattern-drafts of garments, having` outlines d, e, and y, varying for the saine size, and base-lines a and scales or graduated lines thereon, serving as guides, substantially as specified.

In testimony that I claim the above I have hereunto subscribed my name in the presence ot' two witnesses.

J'. LA BUE GROVES.

Witnesses:

THEO. MUNGEN, J Mins J. SI-IEEUY.

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