RU2264142C2 - Method for plotting of pattern for man's trousers - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: sewing industry, in particular, plotting of patterns for cutting of clothing parts.

SUBSTANCE: method involves measuring thigh coverage; plotting basis grid from horizontal and vertical folding lines of front and rear parts; calculating total width of pace from formula: W_p=(C_t+T_ct)-(G_b+T_gb); determining width of pace of trousers front part from formula: W_pp=0.4·W_p, and plotting resultant value to the right along subgluteal fold line from point of intersection thereof with vertical line determining middle line of trousers front part; determining width of pace of trousers rear part from mathematic expression W_prp=0.6-W_p, and plotting resultant value to the right along subgluteal fold line from point of intersection thereof with inclined line determining middle line of trousers rear part; calculating width of rear part along line of lower part from formula: W_rpc=W_rpc-Δ₁.

EFFECT: improved quality of fitting of trousers patters for figures with well developed muscular mass of thigh coverage.

2 dwg, 1 tbl

Description

The invention relates to the clothing industry, and in particular to methods for constructing patterns used for cutting out clothing details.

There is a method of constructing a pattern of men's trousers [1], which consists in measuring the waist half-circumference, hips half-circumference, the length of the back to the waist, the distance from the waist to the side of the floor, the distance from the waist to the knee, the choice of values of structural increments to dimensional features and constructive segments, construction a basic grid of horizontal lines of the hips, the hyoid fold, knee, bottom and vertical lines and folds of the front and back parts, calculating the step width by the formula:

W _sh = 0.35 · C _b + 0.1 · P _b -1,

where C _b - dimensional sign "Half-circumference of the hips, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen",

P _b - an increase to the dimensional sign "Half-circumference of the hips, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen",

the construction of step and side lines from the bottom to the knee line in the form of parallel lines with the distance between them, which is calculated by the formula:

Δ = W _{zh -Sh pch} ,

where Δ is the distance between the side and step lines of the front and back of the trousers along the bottom line and the knee line; Δ = 2.0 cm

W _h - the width of the back of the trousers,

_Nq W - the width of the front of the trousers, and above the knee line model according to the features of the pants.

The disadvantage of this method is the low accuracy of the templates, expressed in the need for their adjustment, taking into account the characteristics of the physique, which are not reflected in the formulas used.

As a prototype, a method for constructing a pattern of men's trousers was taken [2], which consists in measuring the waist half-circumference, thigh half-circumference, the distance from the waist to the side of the floor, the distance from the waist to the knee, the choice of the values of constructive increments to dimensional features and constructive segments, the construction of the base mesh from horizontal lines of the waist, hips, hyoid fold, knee, bottom and vertical lines, bends of the front and back parts, calculating the total step width by the formula:

W _w = 0.35 · (C _b + Ps _b ),

where C _b - dimensional sign "Half-circumference of the hips, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen",

Ps _b - an increase to the dimensional sign "Half-circumference of the hips, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen."

The step width of the front of the trousers is calculated by the formula:

Shh _pts = 0.1 · (C _b + Ps _b )

The step width of the back of the trousers is calculated by the formula:

_{Ww hh} = 0.25 (C _b + Ps _b )

The construction of step and side lines from the bottom to the knee line in the form of parallel lines with the distance between them, which is calculated by the formula:

Δ = W _{zh -Sh pch} ,

where Δ is the distance between the front and back of the trousers along the bottom line and the knee line, and above the knee line according to the model features of the trousers.

The disadvantage of the described method is the low quality of the resulting templates due to the lack of information about the circumference of the thigh, on which the fit of the trousers depends.

The technical result of the invention is to improve the quality of the fit of the trouser templates for figures with developed muscle mass of the thigh circumference.

The specified technical result is achieved by the fact that in the method of constructing trouser templates, including measuring dimensional features of the figure, selecting values of structural additions to dimensional characteristics, selecting design formulas and constructing a basic grid of horizontal waist lines, hips, folds, knee, bottom, and vertical lines and bends of the front and back parts, the construction of step, side, middle and waist lines of the front and back parts, according to the invention measure the circumference of the thigh, and the total width of the step is calculated according to the form ole:

Shh = (O _troubles + By _troubles ) - (C _b + Ps _b ),

where Oh _troubles - dimensional sign of "hip circumference",

By _troubles - an increase to the dimension sign "Hip circumference",

C _b - dimensional sign "Half-circumference of the hips, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen",

Ps _b - an increase to the dimensional sign "Half-circumference of the hips, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen."

The step width of the front of the trousers is calculated by the formula:

Shh _pts = 0.4 · Sh _sh ,

and postpone the resulting value to the right along the line of the sublingual fold from the point of its intersection with the vertical defining the middle line of the front of the trousers.

The step width of the back of the trousers is calculated by the formula:

_{Shh zh} = 0,6 · Sh _sh ,

and postpone the resulting value to the right along the line of the sublingual fold from the point of intersection with the inclined, defining the middle line of the back of the trousers.

The width of the rear part along the bottom line is calculated by the formula:

W _zchn = W _pch -Δ ₁ ,

where W _pch - the width of the front of the bottom line;

Δ ₁ is the difference between the width of the front and rear parts of the trousers along the bottom line in the section from the midline to the step line, Δ ₁ = 1.5 cm, and the obtained value is laid off to the right along the bottom line from the point of intersection with the middle line of the front of the trousers.

The width of the back of the knee line is calculated by the formula:

W _zcc = W _psc -Δ ₂ ,

where W _pchk - the width of the front of the knee;

Δ ₂ is the difference between the front and rear parts of the trousers along the knee line in the section from the midline to the step line, Δ ₂ = 1.5 cm, and the obtained value is laid off to the right along the knee line from the point of intersection with the middle line of the front of the trousers.

The invention is illustrated by drawings, which show:

- figure 1 - pattern of trousers according to the prototype;

- figure 2 is a pattern of trousers according to the claimed method.

The method is as follows.

Dimensional signs of the figure are measured: waist, hip, hip, knee, side to side of the waist line, the distance from the waist to the knee.

The values of constructive increments to the measured dimensional characteristics are selected.

A vertical line is drawn, the upper end of which is indicated by the point T (FIG. 2), from which the segments TN, TY, TK are laid down.

Through the obtained points, horizontals are drawn corresponding to the position of the line of the seat height level, the knee line and the bottom line.

From the point I up, a piece of YB is laid down and a horizontal line is drawn that defines the position of the hips.

From point I to the right along the line of sitting, lay a piece of JA ₁ , which determines the width of the front half of the trousers.

From the point I ₁ to the right along the seat line, lay the segment I ₁ I ₂ = 0.4 · ((On _troubles + On _troubles ) - (C _b + P _b )), which determines the step width of the front half of the trousers.

From point I ₁ upwards, the perpendicular is restored, which intersects with the waist line at point T ₁ , with the line of the hips at point B ₁ .

From the point I to the right along the line of sitting, they lay the segment of JA ₀ , through the resulting point draw a vertical line defining the line of the middle of the front half of the trousers. The intersection points of the vertical with the lines of the waist, hips, knee and bottom indicate T ₀ , B ₀ , K ₀ , H _0, respectively.

From point B ₁ to the right along the line of the hips, lay segment B ₁ B ₀₁ .

Auxiliary point 1 is found on the bisector of the angle B ₁ I ₁ I ₂ .

Draw a line of the middle seam of the front half of the trousers through the points T ₁ B ₀₁ 1Я ₂ .

To the left of the point ₀ lay length of K ₀ K ₁ = O + _count According _count) / 4 + Δ _2/2.

To the right of the point ₀ lay length of K ₀ K ₂ = (G + By _{count number)} / 4 ₂ + Δ / 2.

Segment K ₁ K ₂ defines the width of the front half of the trousers on the knee line.

To the left of the point H ₀ lay off the segment H ₀ H ₁ = W _apk -Δ ₁ = K ₀ K ₁ -Δ ₁ .

To the right of the point N ₀ postpone the segment N ₀ N ₂ = W _apk -Δ ₁ = K ₀ K ₂ -Δ ₁ .

Segment H ₁ H ₂ defines the width of the front half of the trousers on the bottom line.

An auxiliary straight line of the side seam of the front half of the trousers of the UC _{1 is} carried out.

From point T _{1 to the} left along the waist line, the segment T ₁ T _{01 is} laid out, which determines the width of the front half of the trousers along the waist line. From point T ₀₁ , the perpendicular is restored upwards, on which the segment T ₀₁ T _{11 is} laid.

Then draw a line of the upper cut of the trousers, smoothly connecting the points T ₁₁ and T ₁ .

The line of the step seam of the front half of the trousers is carried out by a smooth curve through the points I ₂ K ₂ H ₂ .

The side seam line of the front half of the trousers draws a smooth curve through the points T ₁₁ B I K ₁ and H ₁ .

Then build the back half of the trousers. To the left of point B along the thigh line, a segment of BB _{2 is} laid down, which determines the position of the side seam of the rear half of the trousers on the thigh line.

To the right of point B _{2, the} segment B ₂ B _{3 is} laid aside, which determines the width of the rear half of the trousers along the hips.

From point B ₂ draw an arc of radius equal to the segment B ₂ B ₃ .

Calculate the length of the segment B ₃ B ₄ , which determines the front-rear balance of the trousers.

From point B ₃ draw an arc with a radius equal to the segment B ₃ B ₄ . The upper intersection of two arcs is designated B ₅ .

To the left of the point ₀ lay length of K ₀ K ₀ = K ₃ K ₁ = (G + By _{count number)} / 4 + Δ _2/2.

To the right of the point ₀ lay length of K ₀ K ₀ = K ₄ K ₂ -Δ ₂ = (G + By _{count number)} / 4 _2-Δ / 2.

The segment K ₃ K ₄ determines the width of the rear half of the trousers on the knee line.

To the left of the point N ₀ postpone the segment N ₀ N ₃ = H ₀ H ₁ -Δ ₁ .

To the right of the point N ₀ postpone the segment N ₀ N ₄ = N ₀ N ₂ -Δ ₁ .

The segment H ₃ H ₄ defines the width of the rear half of the trousers on the bottom line.

To the left of the point I _{1 they} postpone the segment I ₁ I ₃ defining the abduction of the point I ₁ .

Points I ₃ and B ₅ connect a straight line, which determines the slope of the middle seam of the rear half of the trousers, and continue it upward beyond the waistline.

Upward along the extension of section I ₃ B ₅ from point B _{5, the} segment B ₅ T _{2 is} laid aside, the end of which defines the top of the middle seam of the rear half of the trousers.

To the right of the point I ₃ lay the segment I ₃ I ₄ = 0.6 · ((O _troubles + By _troubles ) - (C _b + Ps _b )), which determines the step width of the back half of the trousers.

Auxiliary point 2 is found on the bisector of angle B ₅ I ₃ I ₄ .

Draw a line of the middle seam of the rear half of the trousers through the points T ₂ B ₅ 2Я ₄ .

From point T _{2 to the} left an arc is drawn with a radius equal to the segment T ₂ T ₃ .

From point B ₂ upward an arc is drawn with a radius equal to the segment BT ₁₁ . The upper intersection point of the two arcs is designated T ₃ , which defines the top of the side seam of the rear half of the trousers.

A step seam of the rear half of the trousers is carried out from point I ₄ down to point K _{4 of a} smooth curve, then to point H _{4 with a} straight line.

The step seam of the back half of the trousers is adjusted, aligning its length with the length of the step seam by the front half of the trousers from the top of the step seam to the knee line. The difference in lengths is laid down from R ₄ along a step line, thereby obtaining a point R ₄₁ .

The middle seam of the rear half of the trousers is carried out through the points T ₂ B ₅ 2 and I _{41 of a} smooth curve.

The side seam of the rear half of the trousers is drawn in a smooth line through the points T ₃ B ₂ K ₃ H ₃ .

An example of the practical implementation of the method

On a figure of size 185-117-87, mockups of trousers were made according to the prototype and according to the claimed method using the following increases:

prototype: P _b = 2 cm; P _t = 1 cm.

The claimed method: P _b = 2 cm, P _t = 1 cm, By _troubles = 7 cm, By _k = 20 cm.

Then, an assessment of the appearance was made, the results of which are presented in the table.

Table. Way Vertical seams Pleats Ergonomic indicator Side Stepper In front of On the back Prototype There is a displacement of the seam towards the front of the thigh line down There is a shift of the seam towards the front Tense folds are observed along the middle seam in the bow area Tense folds are observed along the middle suture in the area of the sublingual fold Inconvenient when driving. Closely in the girth of the thigh and knee (difficulty lifting the leg) The inventive method Vertical Vertical Not Not Convenient, including when driving

Conclusion: Pants made by the present method are characterized by a smooth surface; lack of vertical, horizontal and inclined creases; verticality of side and step seams; horizontal bottom line. Pants correspond to the anthropometric characteristics of a person both in statics and in dynamics, in contrast to trousers made according to the prototype.

Sources of information

1. Grinspan I.Ya. Designing men's outerwear for individual orders of the population. - M.: Light and food industry, 1982, 208 p.

2. A unified method of designing men's outerwear, manufactured by individual orders of the population. M .: Publishing House "Light Industry", 1981.

Claims (1)

A method of constructing a pattern of men's trousers, including measuring the dimensional characteristics of the figure, choosing the values of structural gains, building a basic grid of horizontal waist lines, hips, folds, knee, bottom and vertical lines, bends of the front and back parts, building step, side, middle and waist lines, characterized in that they measure the circumference of the hip, the total width of the step is calculated by the formula Shh = (O _troubles + By _troubles ) - (C _b + Ps _b ), where About _troubles - a dimensional sign "Hip circumference"; By _troubles - an increase to the dimensional sign "Hip circumference"; C _b - dimensional sign "Half-circumference of the hips, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen"; PS _b - an increase to the dimensional sign "Half-circumference of the hips, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen", the step width of the front of the trousers is calculated by the formula Shh _pts = 0.4 · Sh _sh , and postpone the resulting value to the right along the line of the sublingual fold from the point of its intersection with the vertical defining the middle line of the front of the trousers, the step width of the back of the trousers is calculated by the formula _{Shh zh} = 0,6 · Sh _sh , and set aside the obtained value to the right along the line of the sublingual fold from the point of its intersection with the inclined, defining the middle line of the back of the trousers, the width of the rear along the bottom line is calculated by the formula W _zchn = W _pch -Δ ₁ where W _pch - the width of the front of the bottom line; Δ ₁ is the difference between the width of the front and rear parts of the trousers along the bottom line in the section from the midline to the step line, Δ ₁ = 1.5 cm, and the obtained value is laid off to the right along the bottom line from the point of intersection with the middle line of the front of the trousers, the width of the back along the knee line is calculated by the formula W _zcc = W _psc -Δ ₂ , where W _pchk - the width of the front of the knee; Δ ₂ is the difference between the front and rear parts of the trousers along the knee line in the section from the midline to the step line, Δ ₂ = 1.5 cm, and the obtained value is laid off to the right along the knee line from the point of intersection with the middle line of the front of the trousers.

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