UA150740U - Method of constructing shoulder garment patterns of flat cutout - Google Patents

Abstract

The method of constructing shoulder garment patterns of flat cutout consists in measuring the main and auxiliary parameters that characterize the size of a figure, namely, chest, hip, arm, sleeve length, sleeve width, center-back, center-front, then determining the normalized parameters, for which the measured parameters of chest and hip are plused and divided by 20, and the resulting sizes NCS, NHS are used to build patterns. Additionally, when constructing patterns, the shoulder balance of the figure (the difference between center-front and center-back) is considered, and the adjustments to the construction of patterns for a particular figure are made by increasing the back length to the front level, thereby compensating for the imbalance of lengths formed due to the lack of chest sewing tuck. At the same time, for figures with difference balance of measures of center-front and center-back up to 3 cm, a bigger measure is chosen, and for figures with measure difference more than 3 cm, the back is extended up to 3 cm. The remaining difference is transferred to lengthening of the front central part on a bottom line, and the lengths of the side seams remain constant.

Description

The useful model belongs to light industry, in particular to the technique of building templates, and can be used for cutting flat-cut products, in particular from textiles and knitwear.

Terms and definitions.

Oh - chest girth at the protruding points of the chest.

Circumference is the girth of the hips on all protruding points of the figure - abdomen, hips and waist.

Or - girth of the hand at the widest point of the forearm.

Print - sleeve length according to the model.

Shruk - the width of the sleeve according to the model.

Dst - the length of the back from the point of the base of the neck to the waist line, taking into account the convexity of the shoulder blades.

Dpt - the length of the shelf from the point of the base of the neck through the center of the chest without taking into account its shape to the waist line.

CO - freedom of fit on the chest - according to the model.

Mpg - the norm of building a breast;

MPB - norm of building the thigh;

MPR - sleeve construction norm.

A useful model belongs to the preparation of patterns and improving their accuracy. Flat-cut products (shirts, t-shirts, hoodies, sweatshirts, bomber jackets and other light and outerwear products without a chest seam) made according to traditional cut systems have significant defects: - the shoulder seam "falls back" and is not on the natural shoulder line; - the side seam is not vertical, but goes towards the shelf; - the bottom line of the shelf is raised up.

All these defects are present due to incorrect shoulder balance in flat-cut products. When analyzing and researching well-known domestic and foreign cutting methods such as TsOTSHL,

YMKO REV, RDM, LubAx, Unimex, "Genetics of Cut", Muller and Son, Lin Jacques, Dominique Pellen,

Anne Haggar, Winifred Aldrich, Antonio Donnano and others. a significant omission in the production of flat-section structures was discovered. First of all, it is proposed to obtain the flat cut design in women's clothing from the basic base, by remodelling the breast fold in different areas of the bodice shelf - in the shoulder line, armhole, side seam and bottom line with further adjustment of the lengths of the corresponding sections. At the same time, the ratio of the lengths of the shelf and back from the point of the base of the neck to the waist line remains unchanged, as for products of classic forms of adjacent and semi-adjacent silhouettes.

In shoulder products of a classic silhouette, the reference line is the shoulder line. Fixation of the product on the figure and a stable position of the shoulder seam is ensured by the presence of chest and waist folds, which form the corresponding bulges on a specific figure, provided that the balance measurements are taken correctly. In flat-cut products, there are no folds, and bulges on the body remain and push the surface of the shelf and back up (chest and stomach in front and bulging buttocks in the back), which provokes all associated defects.

The main reason for the defects of flat-cut structures that arise is due to the incorrect initial premise that the shoulder imbalance occurs due to insufficient shelf length. Well-known analogues suggest lengthening the shelf or moving the shoulder seam to the side of the shelf, which actually does not solve the problem, but only exacerbates it.

The problem is partially solved by masking design defects with model lines.

Building a flat-cut design based on a modeled basic bodice shape causes design defects and significant time costs.

In the proposed useful model, a method of building patterns of products using scaled measurements of the figure, based on knowledge of the proportions of the human body, is claimed.

There is a known method of constructing the base of shoulder products, in which the figure is dissected by vertically located planes passing through the main anthropometric points of the figure, and horizontally located planes passing through the main most convex and concave parts of the figure. Next, the distances between the vertical and horizontal secants are determined using formulas, the initial data for which are the dimensional features of the figure. Knowing the distances between vertical and horizontal lines, build a grid on paper or auxiliary fabric. At the intersection of the indicated lines of the grid, the main points of the base are obtained, connecting them with straight and smooth curves, the contour of the base is obtained (EMKO REV

Theoretical foundations. - M.: T. 1. - P. 9-50).

This method is very time-consuming, as it requires removing all the dimensions of the figure and using cumbersome calculation formulas to build the base grid.

There is a known method of manufacturing details of the cut of personalized clothes, which includes the measurement of the main and necessary parameters characterizing the dimensions of the figure, the construction of a complex of personalized patterns, by constructing patterns with the measured values of the main parameters with their subsequent correction in accordance with the measured values of auxiliary parameters, the construction of the decomposition of personalized patterns, unfold according to this layout (patent RF M 2044510, class AMIN 3/00, 1994).

The disadvantages of the known method include insufficient labor productivity and large labor costs involved in the construction of a set of personalized patterns, caused by the laboriousness of the construction of the patterns, insufficient quality of clothes made from the obtained patterns due to the low accuracy and objectivity of the measurement results. In addition, the correction of the patterns built with the measured values of the main parameters, according to the proposed mathematical formulas, does not allow to obtain sufficiently personalized patterns, which must also take into account the properties of the material and the peculiarities of the product manufacturing technology.

The disadvantage of all known methods is due to the fact that when building patterns in flat structures, there is no accounting for the correct shoulder balance.

From the state of the art, no technical solution identical to the proposed one has been found.

The basis of a useful model is the task of creating a method of quickly building patterns of flat-cut shoulder products, which provide the possibility of sewing high-quality clothes from them, taking into account the features of the human figure and the material.

The problem is solved by the fact that in the method of constructing patterns for shoulder products of a flat cut, in which the main and auxiliary parameters characterizing the dimensions of the figure are measured, namely Ог, Об, Ор, Друк, Шрук, Дст, Дпт, СО, then the standardized parameters are determined , for which CO is added to the measured parameters Ог, Об and divided by 20, and the obtained dimensions Мпг, Мпб are used for the construction of patterns, in addition, when constructing patterns, the shoulder balance of the figure (the difference between Dpt and Dst) is taken into account and adjustments are made to the construction of patterns for a specific figure by increasing the length of the back to the level of the shelf, thereby compensating for the imbalance of lengths that is formed due to the lack of a chest fold, while for figures with a balance of the difference between the Dpt and Dst measurements up to C cm, choose a larger measurement, and for

From figures with a difference in measurements of more than 3 cm, the back is lengthened by 3 cm, and the remaining difference is converted into an extension of the central part of the shelf along the bottom line, while the lengths of the side seams remain constant.

The technical result of the proposed useful model consists in the high quality of clothes sewn according to these patterns, due to the increased accuracy of the construction of personalized patterns, as well as the objectivity and accuracy of the results of measuring the parameters characterizing the dimensions of the figure, and based on the use of the construction of the correct shoulder balance for a specific figure in products with a flat cut, by increasing the length of the back to the level of the shelf, thereby compensating for the length imbalance that occurs due to the lack of a chest fold.

This is a fundamentally new approach to solving this problem.

This pattern construction technology can be applied both in individual tailoring and for tailoring on a production scale using CAD.

Example.

Construction of the basic foundation drawing.

Description of the construction process by points.

To build this structure, the following measurements are required:

Oh (chest girth at the protruding points of the chest),

About (hip girth on all protruding points of the figure - stomach, hips and waist),

Or (hand circumference at the widest point of the forearm),

Print (sleeve length according to the model),

Shruk (sleeve width according to the model),

Dst (the length of the back from the point of the base of the neck to the waist line, taking into account the convexity of the shoulder blades),

Dpt (the length of the shelf from the point of the base of the neck through the center of the chest without taking into account its shape to the waist line),

Allowance for freedom of fit on the chest (hereinafter - S.O.) - according to the model.

To build this structure, it is necessary to scale the measurements of girths into standardized parameters. And therefore, a measure of OG with an increase in S.O. is necessary. divide by 20. We will get Mpg (Breast Building Standard). We will also divide the net size of Og by 20 and get Mg. Mpg will be used when setting the widths on the pattern, and Mg - when setting the vertical measurements. Measure Ob with an increase in S.O. similarly, divide by 20 and we will get Mpb (the Norm for the construction of the hip). It should be noted that the increase in these two measures can be both the same and different, depending on the selected silhouette. The increase to the Or measure to obtain the Shruk measure depends on the model, but is easily built in proportion to the given volume of a specific product.

We will also analyze the balance of the figure - compare the measurements of Dpt and Dst. Depending on the difference between these two measurements, an additional adjustment will be applied. If the difference is up to 3 cm, then we choose a larger measure (in female figures, it is more often a Dpt measure, stooped figures may have a negative balance - Dst may be more Dpt). The construction of the shelf and the back is done by overlapping on the same plane.

The drawings show the construction of the basic base of the products.

In Fig. 1 shows the construction of a back and shelf drawing for any figure in normalized parameters.

In Fig. 2 shows the construction of the drawing of the sleeve to the base of the flat cut shown in Fig

Fig. 1, for any figure in normalized parameters.

Back.

We start construction from the back - from the point of the base of the neck 1. 1. From t.1 |) 0.5Mg and --1.5Mg- t.2 (level of the 7th cervical vertebra). Medically combine t.1 and t.2 -

Ladder (line of the neck of the back). 2. From volume 2 | 2.5Mg and - 3.75Mpg - t.3. From t.37 2.5Mg-t.4. Combine with t.1 - Lplecha and lengthen by 0.25 Mpg-t.5. Compare the Dp according to the drawing with the Dp measure for Drukava's clarification. 3. From t.1 |) measure Dts same balance x Zsm - t.b. "" Ltalia. From item 2 perpendicular to Latvia - item 7. 4. From item 4) 25 Shrukawa and --1.25 MPG - item 8. Draw the armhole of the back according to tchk: t.5, t.Z and t.8. In section 5, a right angle to Lplech. 5. From vol. 8 | perpendicular to Latvia - t.9. 6. From t. 1 |) measure of Dvirobu - t. 10 and there is" Lniza back. At the intersection of the horizontal of the bottom and the vertical of the center of the back - item 11. From point 9, continue vertically to Lniz - point 12. 7. Check Shvyrob at the Lniz level and compare with the 5Mpb measure. Adjust as needed.

shelf

The construction of the shelf is carried out on the drawing of the back in a different color. 1.3 t.1 ) 1.5Mg ii -- 1.5Mg - t.13 (jugular fossa). Combine item 1 and item 13 medically -

Shelves of shelves. 2. Rep. 5) 0.25 Mg - item 14, connect with item 1 - Shoulder of shelf. 3. Outline Lproim shelves according to tchk: t. 14, t. 3, t. 8. On the bisector of the corner, make a bend 1-1.5 cm deeper than the lower part of the back armhole. 4. From volume 1 | measure Dtp - t.15 "-Ltalii shelves. Measure the distance between the Ltalia of the back and the shelf (the distance between item 6 and item 15) - the remainder of the balance and set it aside from item 11) - item 16 (Bottom of the shelf) -- - 2.5Mg in a straight line and then connect legally from volume 12 - Bottom of the shelf.

Sleeve construction.

To construct the sleeve, it is necessary to measure with a centimeter tape on the edge of the back and shelf openings D and calculate the radii for the construction of the KI and K2 sleeves: K1-Dpr of the shelf x 0.94;

K2-Dapr back x 0.98. Subtract the model shoulder extension from Drukava's measure.

We start the construction of the sleeve with item 17. 1. From v. 17 -- Shruk - v. 18. 2. With item 17, the radius of KI is an arc up to the right, with item 18, an arc of radius Ka2 is up to the left. The point of intersection of the two arcs is item 19 (control point of the combination of the sleeve with the shoulder seam).

Q. Connect item 17 and item 18 with item 19 and divide the resulting segments into 4 parts. Mark them item 20,

Tt. 21, t. 22 on PP sleeve and t. 23, t. 24, t. 25 on ZP sleeve. 4. From item 20 under I. 1-1.2 cm, from item 22 7 1-1.2 cm, from item 23 7 0.8-1 cm and from item 25 ) 0.8-1 cm. 5. Outline the collar of the sleeve by tchk: t.17, deflection in t.20, t.21, deflection in t.22, t.19, deflection in t.23, t.24, deflection in t.25, etc. 18. 6. From item 19) of Drukava's measure minus the shoulder extension according to the model: item 26, - and - 7" Shruk on Lniz - item 27 and item 28. Combine them, respectively, with item 17 and item 18. Bend the centers of the obtained segments by 0.8-1 cm. In item 27 and item 28 (right angle).

We received a non-stop sleeve for a specific armhole. The depth of the armhole for a specific sleeve in the product is also obtained automatically when building the back. For this design of the shoulder product, you can get a one-piece sleeve, a sleeve by the attachment method, and a sleeve with a slit-like armhole.

This design provides a large space for modeling any flat-cut products.

The use of the proposed useful model will significantly reduce the time for making templates for patterns, improve the quality of clothes made from them, and avoid defects in flat-cut shoulder products. (510)

Claims (1)

USEFUL MODEL FORMULA The method of constructing patterns for shoulder products of a flat cut, in which the main and auxiliary parameters characterizing the dimensions of the figure are measured, namely Ог, Об, Ор, Друк, Шрук, Дст, Дпт, СО, then the standardized parameters are determined, for which to of the measured parameters Ог, Об are added to СО and divided by 20, and the obtained dimensions of Мпг, Мпб are used for the construction of patterns, in addition, when constructing patterns, the shoulder balance of the figure is taken into account (the difference between Dpt and Dst) and adjustments are made to the construction of patterns for a specific figure by increasing the length of the back to the level of the shelf, thereby compensating for the imbalance of lengths that is formed due to the lack of a breast fold, while for figures with a balance of the difference in measurements of Dpt and Dst up to 3 cm, a larger measurement is chosen, and for figures with a difference in measurements of more than 3 cm, the back is lengthened by 3 cm, and the remaining difference is translated into the lengthening of the central part of the shelf along the bottom line, and the lengths of the side seams remain constant. i ra sect They are in ru i, shi Ou and I ve ra : KA MI Ne det E and SHE | / I : ki, ZVrnt : N dya V dya : E Y i : oh they | | y V y y | And! : | c! and And : ! a : and I : | Shchi : E : | NO : и: : | These | y: I ts V g shk N p I - Pe oonvmsen not to her "is chn shchi HU tb Fig. 7 Fig. 2