RU2231961C1 - Trousers pattern plotting method - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: sewing industry.

SUBSTANCE: method involves determining position of vertical axial lines of trousers front and rear halves, horizontal lines of waist, hips, height of seating, knee, lower part, side, trousers pace and middle cut, and trousers rear half balance; determining trousers rear half balance by subtracting from value making 0.1 of hips semi-embrace of difference between trousers length at front side, rear side and lateral side; introducing auxiliary line for forming trousers front half middle cut, said auxiliary line extending from waist and vertical axis of trousers front half intersection line to apex of pace cut of trousers front half; shifting axial line on trousers rear half toward lateral cut, with value thereof being determined from formula:

where L is value of shifting of trousers rear half axial line toward lateral cut, cm; m is width of trousers rear half along hips line, cm; n is width of trousers rear half pace, cm; 3 is additional coefficient, cm.

EFFECT: increased precision of pattern plotting and improved appearance of trousers.

1 dwg

Description

The invention relates to the clothing industry, in particular to methods for the manufacture of women's trousers, including large sizes.

A known method of constructing a trouser template, which consists in determining the position of the vertical axial lines of the front and rear halves of the trousers, horizontal lines of the waist, hips, sitting height, knee, bottom, side, step and middle section of the trousers and the balance of the rear half of the trousers (Unified methodology designing clothes CMEA. The basic design of women's clothing. Theoretical foundations. T.1, Central Research Institute TEIlegprom, M., 1988, S. 48-54 and 80-81).

The disadvantage of this method is the occurrence of a subgluteal fold in tight-fitting products, especially made of modern fabrics that are not resistant to wet-heat treatment; as well as the design of the midline requires constant adjustment when cutting in conditions of individual production of trousers, i.e. inconvenience of building a trouser template.

The objective of the invention is to increase the accuracy of the construction of the pattern of trousers in terms of individual tailoring and mass production and to improve the appearance of trousers.

The problem is solved due to the fact that in the method of constructing a pattern of trousers, the positions of the vertical axial lines of the front and rear halves of the trousers, horizontal lines of the waist, hips, sitting height, knee, bottom, side, step and middle sections of the trousers and the balance of the rear half of the trousers are determined , while the balance value of the back half of the trousers is determined by subtracting from the value of 0.1 half-circumference of the hips the difference between the length of the trousers front, back and side, enter the auxiliary line for the design of the middle section of the front half of the trousers, id I squeeze from the intersection of the waist line with the vertical axis of the front half of the trousers to the top of the step cut of the front half of the trousers, and on the rear half of the trousers, the center line is shifted towards the side cut, the value of which is determined by the formula

where L is the displacement of the centerline of the rear half of the trousers towards the side cut, cm;

m is the width of the rear half of the trousers along the hips, cm;

n is the step width of the rear half of the trousers, cm;

3 - additional coefficient, see

For large sizes (from 58 and above), an extension of the mid-cut line from 1 to 3 cm is introduced depending on the circumference of the hips.

The drawing of the trousers is built on the basic basis of the skirt, for this, a drawing of the supporting surface from the waist line to the hips line is enough.

Drawing grid (see drawing):

TB - 18-20 cm the length of the section from the waist line (LT) to the hips line (LB);

TT ₁ = BB ₁ - the width of the product along the hips;

BB ₁ = Sat + Pb.

Connect the points TT ₁ B ₁ B with straight lines.

BB ₂ = 0.5 (Sat + Pb) + 1 = the width of the back panel of the skirt, through point B ₂ the side cut line, at the intersection with the LT get point T ₂ ;

T ₂ T ₂₁ = (1+ 1.5) cm - increase in RT along the side cut: or DBB - DBP.

TT ₂₁ and T ₂₁ T ₁ - auxiliary lines;

ΣB (sum of darts) - (Sat + Pb) - (St-Fri).

ΣB distribution

T ₂₁ T ₄ = T ₂₁ T ₃ = 0.252: B;

T ₃ T ₄ - lateral tuck = 0.5 ΣB

T ₁ T ₁₁ = 1 cm (const) for sizes 42-56 bevels along the middle seam of the front panel; for sizes over 58 bevel 0.5 cm.

Front tuck solution = 0.15 ΣB;

ΣB - 0.5 ΣB - 1 cm - 0.15 ΣB = tuck solution on the back of the skirt;

T ₃ T ₆ = 1 / 3T ₃ T ₁₁ - the location of the front tuck;

Bv = 0.4BB ₂ - the location of the rear tuck (see drawing).

Drawing a trouser (see drawing).

The hips line is drawn to the right and left beyond the width of the skirt.

B ₁ B ₂₁ = 0.1 Sat - the step width of the front half of the trousers;

B ₂ Bp = 0.5 B ₂ B ₂₁ - the middle of the front half of the trousers (through the point Bp - the line of the arrow);

BB ₄ = 0.25 Sat - step width of the rear half of the trousers;

B ₃ 3 = 3 (const) - correction factor to determine the location of the arrow line;

3B ₃ = 0.5 B ₃ B $\genfrac{}{}{0ex}{}{\text{1}}{\text{2}}$ - the fold line of the back half of the trousers.

Through the points Bp and B ₃ draw verticals. At the intersection with the waistline, we get the points Tn and T ₈ .

TnSp = T ₈ C ₃ = Sun. Through point C ₃ and Cn, the horizontal is the seat line of the drug.

Through the points T ₁₁ and B _{1 the} auxiliary line to the intersection with the LS we get the point C ₁ .

Tpnp = T ₈ H ₃ = DB vertically down the length of the trousers, through the points Hp and H _{3 the} horizontal is the bottom line.

TpKp = T ₈ K ₃ = DB / 2 + 5 line of the knee through points K ₃ and Kp.

Width of trousers along the lines of the bottom and knee

HpH ₁ = НпН ₂ = Шн / 2-1 cm, Н ₃ Н ₄ -Н ₃ Н ₅ = Шн: 2 + 1 cm,

H ₂ K ₂ ; K ₂ B ₂₁ auxiliary lines for the design of the line,

H ₄ K ₄ ; K ₄ B ₄ step cut,

H ₁ K ₁ ; K ₁ B ₂ auxiliary lines for the design of the line,

H ₅ K ₅ ; K ₅ E ₂ side cut.

When the auxiliary lines cross the side and step sections of the seat line, we get the points C ₄ C $\genfrac{}{}{0ex}{}{\text{1}}{\text{2}}$ C ₂ C ₂₁ .

We draw the lines of side and step sections with deflections inside the parts, the amount of deflection is indicated on the drawing.

The design of the mid-section line of the front half of the trousers.

Tpc ₂₁ auxiliary line at the intersection with T ₁₁ C $\genfrac{}{}{0ex}{}{\text{1}}{\text{1}}$ we get point B $\genfrac{}{}{0ex}{}{\text{1}}{\text{1}}$ .

From C $\genfrac{}{}{0ex}{}{\text{1}}{\text{1}}$ the bisector to the intersection with the auxiliary line we get the point 0.

Line C $\genfrac{}{}{0ex}{}{\text{1}}{\text{1}}$ 0 divided into 3 parts.

01 = 1/3 C $\genfrac{}{}{0ex}{}{\text{1}}{\text{1}}$ 0. Through the points T ₁₁ B ¹ C _{21 a} smooth line.

Trouser balance

BB ^{1 =} T ₅ T ¹ = 0.1 Sat - (1.5 + 3) cm; 2-2.5, if DBB - DB3 = 1.5 ± 0.3,

1.5 - for steep, protruding buttocks; DBB - DB3 = 0 + 1 cm,

3.0 - for flat buttocks; DBB - DB3> 2 or DB3 = DBP = DBB.

BB ¹ = trouser balance R = B ₂ B through point B ¹ and B ₂ auxiliary straight line - thigh line of the back half of the trousers. Relative to this line, the supporting part of the rear panel of the skirt is rotated (see drawing B ¹ T ¹ T ₄₁ B ₂ ). The middle line of the TB continues until it intersects with the seat line - an auxiliary line for the design of the middle section of the rear half of the trousers.

The design of the mid-cut line of the rear half of the trousers

C ₄ C ₅ - 1.5 CM DOWN ON LINK B ₄ K ₄ .

С ₅ С ₃ - auxiliary line at the intersection of lines С ₅ С ₃ and T $\genfrac{}{}{0ex}{}{\text{1}}{\text{5}}$ B ¹ we get the point C ¹ .

Bisector ∠ С ¹ = 1.5 cm, segment С ¹ 2 1.5-2 cm.

Through points T ¹ B ¹ B 2 С ₅ - a smooth line.

Section C ₅ 2 is drawn up with a deflection of 0.3-0.7 per line C ₅ C ₃ .

Waist line smooth line.

If you need free-form trousers or O> 120 cm, then the midline (arrows) of the rear half is determined by dividing the plot B ₄ B ₂ , get the point B ₃ (see the drawing dashed lines).

And for the design of the step cut line from point B4, vertical down to the drug - point C $\genfrac{}{}{0ex}{}{\text{1}}{\text{4}}$ and further down by 1.5 cm - point C $\genfrac{}{}{0ex}{}{\text{1}}{\text{5}}$ .

FROM $\genfrac{}{}{0ex}{}{\text{1}}{\text{5}}$ To ₄ - a smooth concave line.

Improving the quality of the product depends on the correct location of the vertical center lines of the front and rear halves of the trousers. To do this, on the horizontal line of the hips, the step widths of the front and rear halves of the trousers are laid. The center line of the front half of the trousers is determined in the classical way, as in all existing methods for constructing trouser templates. To build the center line of the back half of the trousers, a coefficient (K = 3 const) is introduced in drawing B ₄ 3 (Fig. 1), and then the remainder 3B _{2 is} divided in half and a vertical line is drawn through point Bz - the center line of the back half of the trousers, which is shifted to the side a lateral cut of 0.1-2.0 cm. The introduction of the coefficient allows you to avoid the subyagodic folds (baggy trousers under the seat line).

The proposed method allows for the tailoring of trousers of modern, tight-fitting forms of modern fabrics that are not amenable to wet-heat treatment.

The method of constructing the template of the front and rear halves of the trousers independently of each other allows cutting directly on the fabric without building paper patterns.

Claims (1)

A method of constructing a trouser template by determining the position of the vertical axial lines of the front and rear halves of the trousers, horizontal lines of the waist, hips, sitting height, knee, bottom, side, step and middle section of the trousers and the balance of the rear half of the trousers, characterized in that the balance value of the rear half of trousers is determined by subtracting from the value of 0.1 half-circumference of the hips the difference between the length of the trousers in the front, back and side, an auxiliary line is introduced to arrange the middle cut of the front half of the trousers, coming from the intersection of the line of the tal and a vertical axis the front halves of trousers to the top front half cut step pants, and the rear half Trouser produce displacement axial line toward the cut side, the value of which is determined by the formula

where L is the displacement of the centerline of the rear half of the trousers towards the side cut, cm; m is the width of the rear half of the trousers along the hips, cm; n is the step width of the rear half of the trousers, cm; 3 - additional coefficient, see