CN108634411A - A kind of Novel trousers and its method for platemaking - Google Patents
A kind of Novel trousers and its method for platemaking Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN108634411A CN108634411A CN201810485970.3A CN201810485970A CN108634411A CN 108634411 A CN108634411 A CN 108634411A CN 201810485970 A CN201810485970 A CN 201810485970A CN 108634411 A CN108634411 A CN 108634411A
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- China
- Prior art keywords
- line
- piece
- anter
- mouth line
- waist
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- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
- A41D1/06—Trousers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/08—Patterns on the cloth, e.g. printed
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of Novel trousers, including anter and rear piece, inside piece and preceding lateral film before the anter is divided into plate-making at the first cutting wires for being parallel to crease line, the whole translational offsets amount X downwards of preceding inside piece, the waist mouth line of anter is formed by side point in the waist mouth line being located in preceding inside piece after translating and the smoother connection of waist mouth line points outside on preceding lateral film, and the foot mouth line of anter is formed by side point in the foot mouth line being located in preceding inside piece after translating and the smoother connection of foot mouth line points outside on preceding lateral film.The beneficial effects of the invention are as follows：Trousers latasuture is twisted caused by solving the problems, such as fabric skew of weft, improves beautiful and comfortable property.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to clothing making technology field, especially a kind of Novel trousers and its method for platemaking.
Background technology
Fabric is dealt with improperly due to production process there are larger internal stress, just will produce skew of weft, fabric is made to turn round
Turn, skew of weft degree is bigger, and the skew of weft change rate after fabric washing is bigger.The clothes worked it out with such fabric is more or less all
It can deform, the unobvious on jacket and shorts.Long clothes is loaded onto under with regard to apparent very much, especially trousers, the trousers made with skew of weft fabric
Son is easy to " inclined leg ", and the latasuture that wears is not run forward or backward directly, and serious meeting " rise and turn round " has seriously affected the moulding of trousers
Aesthetics, snugness of fit.And the certain skew of weft of fabric generally existing at present, being generally 3% or so for garment enterprise can
With receiving.If a kind of Novel trousers can be found, trousers " inclined leg " phenomenon caused by skew of weft is solved, then can be applied
In production, meets the needs of consumer is to fitted pants aesthetics and comfort.
Invention content
It is an object of the invention to overcome the prior art, a kind of Novel trousers and its method for platemaking are provided, with solution
Certainly due to the twisted problem of latasuture caused by fabric skew of weft.
The purpose of the present invention is achieved through the following technical solutions：A kind of Novel trousers, including anter and rear piece, it is described
Inside piece and preceding lateral film before anter is divided into plate-making at the first cutting wires for being parallel to crease line, preceding inside piece are whole
The downward translational offsets amount X of body, the waist mouth line of anter by by side point in the waist mouth line being located in preceding inside piece after translation be located at
The smoother connection of waist mouth line points outside on preceding lateral film is formed, and the foot mouth line of anter is by the foot being located in preceding inside piece after translating
Side point is formed with the smoother connection of foot mouth line points outside on preceding lateral film in mouth line.
Offset X=the SB*V, wherein SB are foot mouth width degree, and V is weft slope.The V=h/H, wherein h are latitude
Gradient, H are fabric breadth.Due to V h/H=X/SB, therefore it can derive the calculation formula of above-mentioned X.
It is further alternative, as the weft slope V of the fabric for making trousers>When 3%, described rear plate-making when
It is parallel at the second cutting wires of crease line and is separated into rear inside piece and rear lateral film, rear inside piece integrally translates up offset
X is measured, the waist mouth line of rear piece is by side point in the waist mouth line being located in rear inside piece after translating and the waist on rear lateral film
The smoother connection of mouth line points outside is formed, and the foot mouth line of rear piece is by side point and position in the foot mouth line being located in rear inside piece after translating
It is formed in the smoother connection of foot mouth line points outside on rear lateral film.
Similarly, the offset X=SB*V, wherein SB are the width of foot mouth, and V is weft slope.
Further, the anter and rear piece yarn are parallel with crease line to line and remain unchanged.
First cutting wires are located at crease line at translation 2-4cm, second cutting wires are located on the inside of anter
Crease line is backward at piece inside translation 2-3cm.
A kind of method for platemaking of Novel trousers, includes the following steps：
S1, establish offset X, foot mouth width degree SB, weft slope V, skew of weft amount h, fabric breadth H mathematical model V=h/H=
X/SB obtains X=SB*V；
S2, offset X is calculated according to fitted pants specification, according to conventional treatment method, rear trouser plate version type structure before drawing
Line：Waist mouth line, inside and outside side seam line, foot mouth line, front and back crotch curved line, provincial highway, crease line, finally obtain fitted pants example edition；
S3, according to skew of weft direction, by version type reversal deformation, anter is using crease line as reference line, to walking 2-4cm on the inside of anter
Its parallel lines is done, and is disconnected with this parallel lines, inside piece and preceding lateral film, integrally downward by preceding inside piece before anter is divided into
Then translational offsets amount X will be located at side point in the waist mouth line in preceding inside piece and be located on preceding lateral film at anter waist mouth line
The smoother connection of waist mouth line points outside, by side point in the foot mouth line in preceding inside piece and outside the foot mouth line on preceding lateral film
The smoother connection of side point；
If piece version type remains unchanged after the version type of piece after S4, V≤3%；If V ＞ 3%, later piece crease line is reference line,
2-3cm is sidled into trousers and does its parallel lines, and is disconnected with this parallel lines, and rear inside piece and rear lateral film are divided by rear,
Rear inside piece is integrally translated up into offset X, then will after at piece waist mouth line in points outside connection, and rear inside piece will be located at
On waist mouth line in side point and the smoother connection of waist mouth line points outside on the rear lateral film, by the foot mouth in rear inside piece
Side point and the smoother connection of foot mouth line points outside on rear lateral film in line；
The yarn of S5, the anter of trousers and rear piece are parallel with crease line to line and remain unchanged.
The present invention has the following advantages：
The present invention by establishing corresponding mathematical model, fitted pants example edition structure is deconstructed, displacement, design, solve
Due to the skew of weft of fabric generally existing cause fitted pants latasuture not straight " inclined leg " the problem of, the present invention enriches Pants Design design side
Method improves the property handsome in appearance and snugness of fit of fitted pants, for the design of enterprise correlation fitted pants and production provide it is a set of directly
Effective application technology.
Description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the structural schematic diagram of anter and rear piece made of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is the manufacturing process schematic diagram of anter of the present invention.
Fig. 3 is the mathematical model of the fabric used in the invention skew of weft and fitted pants version type.
Fig. 4 is the manufacturing process schematic diagram of piece after the present invention.
Specific implementation mode
The present invention will be further described with reference to the accompanying drawings and embodiments：
Embodiment 1：
In conjunction with shown in Fig. 1-Fig. 4, a kind of Novel trousers, including anter 1 and rear piece 2, the anter 1 is in plate-making flat
Inside piece 10 and preceding lateral film 11 before row is divided at the first cutting wires of crease line 5, preceding inside piece 10 are whole flat downwards
Offset X is moved, the waist mouth line 3 of anter 1 is by by side point 30 in the waist mouth line being located in preceding inside piece 10 after translation and before being located at
31 smoother connection of waist mouth line points outside on lateral film 11 is formed, and the foot mouth line 4 of anter 1 after translating by being located at preceding inside piece 10
On foot mouth line in side point 40 and 41 smoother connection of the foot mouth line points outside formation on the preceding lateral film 11.
Offset X=the SB*V, wherein SB are foot mouth width degree, and V is weft slope.The V=h/H, wherein h are latitude
Gradient, H are fabric breadth.Due to Vh/H=X/SB, therefore it can derive the calculation formula of above-mentioned X.
It is further alternative, as the weft slope V of the fabric for making trousers>When 3%, described rear 2 in plate-making
Inside piece 20 and rear lateral film 21 after being separated at the second cutting wires for being parallel to crease line 5, rear inside piece 20 it is whole to
Upper translational offsets amount X, the waist mouth line 3 of rear piece 2 is by side point 30 and position in the waist mouth line being located in rear inside piece 20 after translating
It is formed in the 31 smoother connection of waist mouth line points outside on rear lateral film 21, the foot mouth line 4 of rear piece 2 after translating by being located at rear inside
Side point 40 is formed with the 41 smoother connection of foot mouth line points outside on rear lateral film 21 in foot mouth line on piece 20.Similarly, institute
Offset X=the SB*V stated, wherein SB are the width of foot mouth, and V is weft slope.
Further, the anter 1 and 2 yarn of rear piece are parallel with crease line 5 to line 7 and remain unchanged.
First cutting wires are located at crease line 5 and are translated at 2-4cm to 1 inside of anter, the second cutting wires position
At crease line 5 backward 2 inside translation 2-3cm of piece.
Embodiment 2：
In conjunction with shown in Fig. 1-Fig. 3, a kind of method for platemaking of Novel trousers includes the following steps：
S1, establish offset X, foot mouth width degree SB, weft slope V, skew of weft amount h, fabric breadth H mathematical model V=h/H=
X/SB obtains X=SB*V；
S2, offset X, in the present embodiment, the trousers length L=92cm of the trousers, waistline WL are calculated according to fitted pants specification
=72cm, hip circumference HL=92cm, middle-grade M=25, foot mouth width degree SB=20cm, weft slope V=3% then can obtain X by above-mentioned formula
=0.6mm；
According to conventional treatment method, rear trouser plate version type structure lines before drawing：It is waist mouth line 3, inside and outside side seam line, foot mouth line 4, preceding
Seat curved line, provincial highway, crease line 5, finally obtain fitted pants example edition；
S3, according to skew of weft direction, by version type reversal deformation, anter 1 is reference line with crease line 5, is sidled into anter 1
3cm does its parallel lines 6, and is disconnected with this parallel lines 6, inside piece 10 and preceding lateral film 11 before anter 1 is divided into, by preceding inside
The whole translation 0.6cn downwards of piece 10, then will be located at 1 waist mouth line 3 of anter in the waist mouth line in preceding inside piece 10 side point 30 with
31 smoother connection of waist mouth line points outside on preceding lateral film 11, by side point 40 in the foot mouth line in preceding inside piece 10 with
41 smoother connection of foot mouth line points outside on preceding lateral film 11；
S4, due to V≤3%, therefore 2 editions types of piece remain unchanged after the version type of rear piece 2；
S5, trousers anter 1 yarn it is parallel with crease line 5 to line 7 and remain unchanged.
Embodiment 3：
In conjunction with shown in Fig. 1-Fig. 4, a kind of method for platemaking of Novel trousers includes the following steps：
S1, establish offset X, foot mouth width degree SB, weft slope V, skew of weft amount h, fabric breadth H mathematical model V=h/H=
X/SB obtains X=SB*V；
S2, offset X, in the present embodiment, the trousers length L=92cm of the trousers, waistline WL are calculated according to fitted pants specification
=72cm, hip circumference HL=92cm, middle-grade M=24, foot mouth width degree SB=20cm, weft slope V=4.5%, then can by above-mentioned formula
Obtain X=0.9cm；
According to conventional treatment method, rear trouser plate version type structure lines before drawing：It is waist mouth line 3, inside and outside side seam line, foot mouth line 4, preceding
Seat curved line, provincial highway, crease line 5, finally obtain fitted pants example edition；
S3, according to skew of weft direction, by version type reversal deformation, anter 1 is reference line with crease line 5, is sidled into anter 1
3.5cm does its parallel lines 6, and is disconnected with this parallel lines 6, inside piece 10 and preceding lateral film 11 before anter 1 is divided into, will be preceding interior
The whole translation 0.9cm downwards of lateral plate 10, then will be located at side point 30 in the waist mouth line in preceding inside piece 10 at 1 waist mouth line 3 of anter
With the 31 smoother connection of waist mouth line points outside on preceding lateral film 11, by side point 40 in the foot mouth line in preceding inside piece 10
With the 41 smoother connection of foot mouth line points outside on preceding lateral film 11；
S4, due to V ＞ 3%, therefore piece 2 crease line 5 is reference line later, and 2cm is sidled into trousers and does its parallel lines 6, and
It is disconnected with this parallel lines 6, rear inside piece 20 and rear lateral film 21 is divided by rear 2,20 entirety of rear inside piece is translated up
0.9cm, then will after at 2 waist mouth line 3 of piece in points outside connection, and by side point 30 in the waist mouth line in rear inside piece 20 with
31 smoother connection of waist mouth line points outside on rear lateral film 21, by side point 40 in the foot mouth line in rear inside piece 20 with
41 smoother connection of foot mouth line points outside on rear lateral film 21；
The yarn of S5, the anter 1 of trousers and rear piece 2 are parallel with crease line 5 to line 7 and remain unchanged.
Claims (8)
1. a kind of Novel trousers, it is characterised in that：Including anter and rear piece, the anter is being parallel to crease line in plate-making
The first cutting wires at be divided into before inside piece and preceding lateral film, the whole translational offsets amount X downwards of preceding inside piece, the waist of anter
Mouth line is by side point in the waist mouth line being located in preceding inside piece after translating and the null circle on the outside of the waist mouth line on preceding lateral film
It is formed along connection, the foot mouth line of anter is by side point in the foot mouth line being located in preceding inside piece after translating and on preceding lateral film
The smoother connection of foot mouth line points outside formed.
2. a kind of Novel trousers according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：Offset X=the SB*V, wherein SB are
Foot mouth width degree, V are weft slope.
3. a kind of Novel trousers according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：When the weft slope of the fabric for making trousers
V>When 3%, described rear be separated at the second cutting wires for being parallel to crease line in plate-making after inside piece and rear outer
Lateral plate, rear inside piece integrally translate up offset X, and the waist mouth line of rear piece is by the waist mouth being located in rear inside piece after translating
Side point is formed with the smoother connection of waist mouth line points outside on rear lateral film in line, and the foot mouth line of rear piece is by being located at after translating
Side point is formed with the smoother connection of foot mouth line points outside on rear lateral film in the foot mouth line in inside piece afterwards.
4. a kind of Novel trousers according to claim 3, it is characterised in that：Offset X=the SB*V, wherein SB are
The width of foot mouth, V are weft slope.
5. a kind of Novel trousers according to claim 1 or 3, it is characterised in that：The anter and rear piece yarn to line with
Crease line is parallel and remains unchanged.
6. a kind of Novel trousers according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：First cutting wires be located at crease line to
On the inside of anter at translation 2-4cm.
7. a kind of Novel trousers according to claim 3, it is characterised in that：Second cutting wires be located at crease line to
Afterwards on the inside of piece at translation 2-3cm.
8. a kind of method for platemaking of Novel trousers, it is characterised in that：Include the following steps：
S1, establish offset X, foot mouth width degree SB, weft slope V, skew of weft amount h, fabric breadth H mathematical model V=h/H=X/
SB obtains X=SB*V；
S2, offset X is calculated according to fitted pants specification, according to conventional treatment method, rear trouser plate version type structure lines before drawing：Waist
Mouth line, inside and outside side seam line, foot mouth line, front and back crotch curved line, provincial highway, crease line, finally obtain fitted pants example edition；
S3, according to skew of weft direction, by version type reversal deformation, anter does it using crease line as reference line, to 2-4cm is walked on the inside of anter
Parallel lines, and disconnected with this parallel lines, inside piece and preceding lateral film before anter is divided into, by the whole translation downwards of preceding inside piece
Then offset X will be located at side point and the waist mouth on preceding lateral film in the waist mouth line in preceding inside piece at anter waist mouth line
The smoother connection of line points outside, by side point in the foot mouth line in preceding inside piece and the foot mouth line points outside on preceding lateral film
Smoother connection；
If piece version type remains unchanged after the version type of piece after S4, V≤3%；If V ＞ 3%, later piece crease line is reference line, to trousers
Sidle 2-3cm in son and do its parallel lines, and disconnected with this parallel lines, rear inside piece and rear lateral film are divided by rear, will after
Inside piece integrally translates up offset X, then will after at piece waist mouth line in points outside connection, and will be in rear inside piece
Side point and the smoother connection of waist mouth line points outside on rear lateral film in waist mouth line, will be in the foot mouth line in rear inside piece
Side point and the smoother connection of foot mouth line points outside on rear lateral film；
The yarn of S5, the anter of trousers and rear piece are parallel with crease line to line and remain unchanged.
Priority Applications (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201810485970.3A CN108634411B (en) | 2018-05-21 | 2018-05-21 | Trousers and plate making method thereof |
| PCT/CN2019/096665 WO2019223814A2 (en) | 2018-05-21 | 2019-07-19 | Novel trousers and pattern-making method therefor |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201810485970.3A CN108634411B (en) | 2018-05-21 | 2018-05-21 | Trousers and plate making method thereof |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN108634411A true CN108634411A (en) | 2018-10-12 |
| CN108634411B CN108634411B (en) | 2020-08-11 |
Family
ID=63756989
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201810485970.3A Expired - Fee Related CN108634411B (en) | 2018-05-21 | 2018-05-21 | Trousers and plate making method thereof |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN108634411B (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2019223814A2 (en) |
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN109393586A (en) * | 2018-12-03 | 2019-03-01 | 赵萍 | Chinese style list the front of a garment which button on the right tailoring method for clothes and clothes according to one's conscience |
| WO2019223814A3 (en) * | 2018-05-21 | 2020-01-09 | 山东舒朗电子商务有限公司 | Novel trousers and pattern-making method therefor |
| CN110881718A (en) * | 2019-12-12 | 2020-03-17 | 西京学院 | Folding trousers piece hollowing and cutting method |
Families Citing this family (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| BE1027437B1 (en) * | 2020-09-11 | 2021-11-26 | Shan Dong Show Long E Commerceco Ltd | New pants and pattern making process |
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- 2018-05-21 CN CN201810485970.3A patent/CN108634411B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
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| CN1457716A (en) * | 2002-05-17 | 2003-11-26 | 葛俊康 | Determining method for front and back waist line of trousers |
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Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2019223814A3 (en) * | 2018-05-21 | 2020-01-09 | 山东舒朗电子商务有限公司 | Novel trousers and pattern-making method therefor |
| CN109393586A (en) * | 2018-12-03 | 2019-03-01 | 赵萍 | Chinese style list the front of a garment which button on the right tailoring method for clothes and clothes according to one's conscience |
| CN110881718A (en) * | 2019-12-12 | 2020-03-17 | 西京学院 | Folding trousers piece hollowing and cutting method |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| WO2019223814A2 (en) | 2019-11-28 |
| WO2019223814A3 (en) | 2020-01-09 |
| CN108634411B (en) | 2020-08-11 |
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