WO2019223814A2

WO2019223814A2 - Novel trousers and pattern-making method therefor

Info

Publication number: WO2019223814A2
Application number: PCT/CN2019/096665
Authority: WO
Inventors: 韩彬; 万蕾
Original assignee: 山东舒朗电子商务有限公司
Priority date: 2018-05-21
Filing date: 2019-07-19
Publication date: 2019-11-28
Also published as: CN108634411B; WO2019223814A3; CN108634411A

Abstract

Disclosed are novel trousers, comprising a front piece and a rear piece, the front piece being divided into a front inner side piece and a front outer side piece at a first cutting line parallel to a trouser centre line during pattern-making, the whole front inner side piece being shifted down by an offset X, a waist opening line of the front piece being formed by circularly connecting a waist opening line inner side point located on the front inner side piece to a waist opening line outer side point located on the front outer side piece after the shift, a foot opening line of the front piece being formed by circularly connecting a foot opening line inner side point located on the front inner side piece to a foot opening line outer side point located on the front outer side piece after the shift. The beneficial effects of the present invention are: solving the problem of trouser side seam twisting caused by fabric weft distortion, and improving aesthetics and comfort.

Description

Novel pants and plate making method

Technical field

The invention relates to the technical field of garment making, in particular to a new type of pants and a plate making method thereof.

Background technique

Due to improper handling of the fabric during the production process, there is a large internal stress, which will cause weft skew, which will twist the fabric. The greater the degree of weft skew, the greater the rate of weft slope change after the fabric is washed. Clothes made with such fabrics will be more or less deformed and not obvious in shorts. There are obviously a lot of long clothes and bottoms, especially trousers. Trousers made of weft and diagonal fabrics are easy to "off-legs". When they are worn, the side seams do not run straight forward or backward, and they will "twist" severely. , Which seriously affects the styling beauty and wearing comfort of the pants. At present, fabrics generally have a certain weft slope, which is generally acceptable for apparel companies at about 3%. If a new type of trousers can be found to solve the phenomenon of "leg deflection" of trousers caused by weft slant, then it can be used in production to meet consumers' requirements for the aesthetics and comfort of trousers.

Summary of the Invention

The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art and provide a new type of trousers and a plate making method thereof, so as to solve the problem of side seam distortion caused by the weft of the fabric.

The object of the present invention is achieved by the following technical solution: a new type of pants including a front piece and a back piece, the front piece is divided into a front inner piece and a front portion at a first cutting line parallel to a center line of the pants when making a plate The outer panel and the front medial panel are translated downward by an offset X, and the waistline of the front panel is smoothly connected by the inner point of the waistline on the front medial panel and the outer point of the waistline on the front and outer panel. Formed, the footline of the front sheet is formed by smoothly connecting the inner point of the footline on the front inner sheet and the outer point of the footline on the front outer sheet after translation.

The offset X = SB * V, where SB is the foot width and V is the weft slope. The V = h / H, where h is the weft slope amount and H is the fabric width. Since V h / H = X / SB, the calculation formula of X can be derived.

Further optionally, when the weft slope V of the fabric used to make pants is greater than 3%, the rear panel is divided into a rear medial panel and a rear medial panel at a second cutting line parallel to the central line of the pants during plate making The rear medial panel is translated upward by an offset X, and the waistline of the rear panel is formed by smoothly connecting the medial point of the waistline on the rear medial panel and the outer point of the waistline on the rear lateral panel. The foot mouth line of the film is formed by smoothly connecting the inner point of the foot mouth line on the rear inner sheet and the outer point of the foot line on the rear outer sheet after translation.

Similarly, the offset X = SB * V, where SB is the width of the foot opening and V is the weft slope.

Further, the yarns of the front and back panels are parallel to the centerline of the pants and remain unchanged.

The first cutting line is located at a position of 2-4 cm from the middle of the pant toward the inside of the front piece, and the second cutting line is located at the position of 2-3 cm from the middle of the pan to the back inside.

The method for making a new type of pants includes the following steps:

S1. Establish a mathematical model of offset X, foot width SB, weft slope V, weft slope h, and fabric width H V = h / H = X / SB to obtain X = SB * V;

S2. Calculate the offset X according to the specifications of the pants. Draw the front and back pants structure line according to the conventional processing method: waist line, inner and outer stitches, foot mouth lines, front and back crotch lines, provincial road, middle line of pants. , And finally get the trousers sample;

S3. According to the weft oblique direction, the version is reversely deformed. The front piece uses the center line of the pants as a reference line, and walks 2-4cm inside the front piece to make its parallel line. The parallel line is broken and the front piece is divided into front. For the inner and front sheets, translate the entire front and inner sheet downwards by the offset X, and then circle the inner point of the waist line on the front and inner sheet and the outer point of the waist line on the front and outer sheet. Connect in a smooth manner, and connect the inner point of the footline on the front inner side with the outer point of the footline on the front outer side.

S4. If V ≤ 3%, the shape of the back piece remains unchanged. If V> 3%, the center line of the next piece of pants is the reference line. Walk 2-3 cm to the inside of the pants to make it parallel, and parallel to it. The line is disconnected, the back piece is divided into a back inside piece and a back outside piece, and the whole back piece is translated upward by an offset X, and then the inner and outer points of the waist line of the back piece are connected, and the waist located on the back inside piece is connected. The inner point of the mouth line is smoothly connected to the outer point of the waist line on the posterolateral piece, and the inner point of the footline on the rear inner piece is connected smoothly to the outer point of the footline on the rear outer piece;

S5. The yarn direction line of the front and back of the pants is parallel to the center line of the pants and remains unchanged.

The invention has the following advantages:

By establishing corresponding mathematical models, the present invention deconstructs, displaces, and designs the structure of the trousers' sample pattern, and solves the problem that the side seams of the trousers are not straightly "legged" due to the weft slant that is generally present in the fabric. The present invention enriches the trousers The structural design method of the pants improves the aesthetics and wearing comfort of the pants, and provides a set of direct and effective application technologies for the design and production of pants related to the enterprise.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 is a schematic structural diagram of a front sheet and a rear sheet made by the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of a manufacturing process of a front sheet of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a mathematical model of the weft diagonal and the pants type used in the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of a manufacturing process of a backsheet of the present invention.

Detailed ways

The following further describes the present invention with reference to the drawings and embodiments:

Example 1:

As shown in FIGS. 1-4, a new type of pants includes a front panel 1 and a back panel 2. The front panel 1 is divided into a front inner panel at a first cutting line parallel to the central line 5 of the pant during plate making. 10 and the front and outer panels 11, the front and medial panels 10 are translated downward by an offset X, and the waistline 3 of the front panel 1 is located at the front and outer sides of the waistline 3 on the front and medial panels 10 and the front and outer sides. The outer point 31 of the waistline on the panel 11 is smoothly connected, and the footline 4 of the front panel 1 is formed by the inner point 40 of the footline on the front medial panel 10 and the footport on the front and lateral panel 11 after translation. The outer points 41 of the lines are smoothly connected.

The offset X = SB * V, where SB is the foot width and V is the weft slope. The V = h / H, where h is the weft slope amount and H is the fabric width. Since Vh / H = X / SB, the calculation formula of X can be derived.

Further optionally, when the weft slope V of the fabric used to make pants is greater than 3%, the rear panel 2 is separated into a rear inner panel 20 and a rear inner panel 20 and The rear outer panel 21 and the rear inner panel 20 are translated upward by an offset X, and the waistline 3 of the rear panel 2 is formed by the inner point 30 of the waistline on the rear inner panel 20 and the rear lateral panel 21 The outer point 31 of the waistline is smoothly connected, and the footline 4 of the rear panel 2 is formed by the inner point 40 of the footline on the rear medial panel 20 and the outer point of the footline on the rear lateral panel 21 after translation. 41 round connection formed. Similarly, the offset X = SB * V, where SB is the width of the foot opening and V is the weft slope.

Further, the yarn direction line 7 of the front panel 1 and the back panel 2 is parallel to the middle line 5 of the pants and remains unchanged.

The first cutting line is located at a position of 2-4 cm translated from the middle of the pants 5 to the inside of the front panel 1, and the second cutting line is located at a position of 2-3 cm translated from the middle of the pants 5 to the inside of the rear panel 2.

Example 2:

With reference to Figs. 1-3, a new type of plate making method for pants includes the following steps:

S2. Calculate the offset X according to the specifications of the pants. In this embodiment, the pants length L = 92cm, waist WL = 72cm, hip HL = 92cm, mid-range M = 25, and foot width SB = 20cm. Weft slope V = 3%, then X = 0.6mm can be obtained from the above formula;

According to the conventional processing methods, draw the front and back pants structure line: waistline 3, inside and outside seam, foot mouth line 4, front and back crotch line, provincial road, middle line of pants 5, and finally get the trousers sample;

S3. According to the weft oblique direction, the version is reversely deformed. The front panel 1 uses the center line 5 of the pants as a reference line, and walks 3 cm inside the front panel 1 to make its parallel line 6, and breaks the front panel with this parallel line 6. 1 is divided into a front inner sheet 10 and a front outer sheet 11. The entire front inner sheet 10 is translated downward by 0.6cn, and then the waist line 3 of the front sheet 1 is located at the inner point 30 of the waist line on the front inner sheet 10 and The outer point 31 of the waistline on the front side panel 11 is smoothly connected, and the inner point 40 of the footline on the front side panel 10 and the outer point 41 of the footline on the front side panel 11 are smoothly connected;

S4. Since V≤3%, the layout of the rear panel 2 remains unchanged;

S5. The yarn direction line 7 of the front piece 1 of the pants is parallel to the line 5 of the pants and remains unchanged.

Example 3:

With reference to Figs. 1-4, a method for making a new type of pants includes the following steps:

S2. Calculate the offset X according to the specifications of the pants. In this embodiment, the pants length L = 92cm, waist WL = 72cm, hip HL = 92cm, mid-range M = 24, and foot width SB = 20cm. Weft slope V = 4.5%, then X = 0.9cm can be obtained from the above formula;

S3. According to the weft oblique direction, the version is reversely deformed. The front panel 1 uses the center line 5 of the pants as a reference line, and walks 3.5 cm inside the front panel 1 to make its parallel line 6, and then breaks the parallel line 6 with this. Sheet 1 is divided into a front inner sheet 10 and a front outer sheet 11. The entire front inner sheet 10 is translated downward by 0.9 cm, and then the waist line 3 of the front sheet 1 is located at the inner point 30 of the waist line on the front inner sheet 10 and The outer point 31 of the waistline on the front side panel 11 is smoothly connected, and the inner point 40 of the footline on the front side panel 10 and the outer point 41 of the footline on the front side panel 11 are smoothly connected;

S4. Because V> 3%, the midline 5 of the pants 2 of the back piece is the reference line. Walk 2 cm to the inside of the pants to make the parallel line 6 and cut off the parallel line 6. The back piece 2 is divided into the back inner piece 20 and The posterolateral panel 21 translates the entire posterior medial panel 20 upward by 0.9 cm, and then connects the medial and lateral points at the waistline 3 of the posterior panel 2 and connects the medial point 30 of the waistline on the posterior medial panel 20 to the posterolateral The outer point 31 of the waistline on the sheet 21 is smoothly connected, and the inner point 40 of the footline on the posterior inside sheet 20 and the outer point 41 of the footline on the posterior sheet 21 are smoothly connected;

S5. The yarn direction line 7 of the front panel 1 and the back panel 2 of the pants is parallel to the center line 5 of the pants and remains unchanged.

Claims

A new type of trousers is characterized in that it comprises a front panel and a back panel. The front panel is divided into a front medial panel and a front medial panel at a first cutting line parallel to the central line of the trousers during plate making, and the front medial panel is integral. Offset X is translated downward. The waistline of the front piece is formed by smoothly connecting the inside point of the waistline on the front inside piece with the outside point of the waistline on the front outside piece. The line is formed by smoothly connecting the inner points of the foot mouth line on the front inner sheet and the outer points of the foot mouth line on the front outer sheet after translation.
The new type of trousers according to claim 1, wherein the offset X = SB * V, where SB is the width of the foot opening, and V is the weft slope.
The new type of trousers according to claim 1, characterized in that when the weft slope V of the fabric used to make the trousers is V> 3%, the rear panel is at a second cutting line parallel to the centerline of the trousers when the plate is made. The site is divided into a posterior medial panel and a posterior lateral panel. The posterior medial panel is translated upward by an offset X, and the waistline of the posterior panel is defined by the medial point of the waistline on the posterior medial panel and the posterior lateral panel. The outer points of the waistline are connected smoothly, and the footline of the rear panel is formed by the inner points of the footline on the rear medial panel and the outer points of the footline on the rear lateral panel.
The new type of pants according to claim 3, wherein the offset X = SB * V, where SB is the width of the foot opening and V is the weft slope.
The new type of trousers according to claim 1 or 3, wherein the yarns of the front and back panels are parallel to the centerline of the trousers and remain unchanged.
The new type of trousers according to claim 1, characterized in that: the first cutting line is located at a position of 2-4 cm from the front of the midline of the trousers.
The new type of trousers according to claim 3, wherein the second cutting line is located at a position of 2-3 cm translated from the center line of the trousers to the inner side of the rear panel.
A new type of trousers plate making method is characterized by comprising the following steps: S1. Establishing a mathematical model of offset X, foot width SB, weft slope V, weft slope h, and fabric width H H = H / H = X / SB, get X = SB * V; S2, calculate the offset X according to the specifications of the pants, and draw the front and back pants structure line according to the conventional processing method: waist line, inner and outer stitches, feet Mouth line, front and back crotch line, provincial road, middle line of trousers, and finally get the trousers sample; S3, according to the weft oblique direction, reverse the shape of the pattern, the front of the pants with the midline as the reference line, walk forward 2 -4cm make its parallel line and cut off the parallel line, divide the front piece into the front inside piece and the front outside piece, translate the whole inside piece downward by the offset X, and then place the waist line of the front piece at The inner point of the waistline on the front medial piece is smoothly connected to the outer point of the waistline on the front lateral piece, and the inner point of the footline on the front inner piece and the outer point of the footline on the front lateral piece are connected smoothly; S4. If V≤3%, the shape of the back piece remains unchanged; if V> 3%, the midline of the next piece of pants is the reference Line, go 2-3cm to the inside of the pants to make its parallel line, and cut off the parallel line, divide the back piece into the back inside piece and the back outside piece, translate the whole back inside piece up by the offset X, and then Connect the inner and outer points of the waistline of the film, and connect the inner point of the waistline on the posteromediate and the outer point of the waistline on the posterolaterally. Connect the inner point of the footline on the posteromediate with the The outside points of the foot line on the back outer piece are connected smoothly and roundly; S5, the yarn direction line of the front piece and the back piece of the pants is parallel to the line of the pants and remains unchanged.