CN101278765A - Clothing bias cutting method - Google Patents
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- CN101278765A CN101278765A CNA2007100447354A CN200710044735A CN101278765A CN 101278765 A CN101278765 A CN 101278765A CN A2007100447354 A CNA2007100447354 A CN A2007100447354A CN 200710044735 A CN200710044735 A CN 200710044735A CN 101278765 A CN101278765 A CN 101278765A
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Abstract
The invention relates to a clothing cutting method, in particular to a bias-cutting method for various skirts, one-piece dresses, jackets and trousers, etc. The clothing bias-cutting method is that a clothing paper sample is manufactured by an oblique direction of 45 degrees to draw and plate making and the oblique direction of the paper sample parallels the arrangement of horizontal direction of the fabric and then cutting is carried out. The invention takes the oblique direction of 45-degree of the fabric as the pendelant direction of the clothing, and takes the horizontal direction of the fabric as the oblique separating line, the direction for cutting and arrangement and the joint in sewing. At the same time, the invention fully utilizes the unique feature that the textile fabric can be extended in the oblique direction, thus reflecting the characteristics of the modern textile fabric to a certain extent, even if the fabric without lycra can also be extended. The skirt hemline and the clothes hemline in a geometric drawing design can produce natural and even wavy distribution and the luster of the fabric delicately changes with the change of direction. More particularly, the fluent lines produced by cutting and the combination of oblique asymmetric clothing sheets can produce approximate spiral effect and have endless reverie charm.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of tailoring method for clothes, be specifically related to the bias cutting method of multiple skirt, one-piece dress and upper garment and trousers etc.
Background technology
Clothing bias cutting method is a kind of 45 ° of oblique method of cutting out between plane cutting and three-dimensional cutting.It both can finish the clothing bias cutting of general type by means of plane cutting, also can depend on three-dimensional cutting and finish clothing bias cutting than complicated type.Plane cutting and three-dimensional cutting all are with the warp-wise of the lining draping orientation as clothes basically, mainly are that the warp-wise in view of lining has splendid stability, and this has become convention sanctified by usage in the rag trade.And tapered cut one anti-convention is bold in innovation, and has used the oblique characteristic with stretching of lining dexterously, with 45 ° of oblique draping orientations of lining as clothes, and the splicing seams part with the warp-wise of lining during as oblique cut-off rule, cutting discharge direction and sewing.Select multiple how much lines to carry out structural design simultaneously, according to body shape carry out directly, the intersection cutting of tilted direction.After the moulding of tapered cut clothes, its train of dress or clothing pose can produce the uniform wave of nature and distribute, and the gloss of lining also because of direction changes delicate variation can take place.Have the silk fabrics of sense of well dangling and quality softness, be suitable for preferred material especially as tapered cut.
The blank of clothing bias cutting derives from the various dress models in the plane cutting (the straight sanction), and promptly clothing bias cutting is to be based upon on the various dress model models basis to carry out oblique transfers such as chest measurement, waistline, hip circumference and the bottom, and then carries out oblique shape-designing.With the oblique through 45 ° of angles of tram tuft of lining is draping orientation as clothing bias cutting all the time, in the clothing bias cutting shape-designing through geometric figures such as regular meeting's utilization semicircle, rectangle, triangle, rhombus and arbitrary shapes.And the variation of relevant clothing bias cutting style in the clothing bias cutting method shows that mainly the oblique moulding of cutting apart quantity what and train of dress or clothing pendulum of garment piece selects.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention provides a kind of clothing bias cutting method.
Clothing bias cutting method is characterized in that: with 45 ° of oblique drawing and plate-making, when formal discharge and cutting, the oblique of pattern can oblique again discharge and cutting when pattern tissue is made, but the warp-wise discharge that is parallel to lining carries out cutting then.
45 ° of oblique draping orientations of lining, the warp-wise of lining splicing seams part during as oblique cut-off rule, cutting discharge direction and sewing as clothing bias cutting.
Utilization semicircle, rectangle, triangle or rhombus moulding in the clothing bias cutting shape-designing.Also can select other arbitrary shape geometric figure for use.
Clothes after the moulding of employing clothing bias cutting method are the oblique of lining in vertical vertical direction, then are the warp-wise of lining in oblique direction.Because pattern oblique is the warp-wise on the lining in the clothing bias cutting method, thereby the warp-wise lining can be avoided producing seam and part takes out crape and play disadvantages such as ripples when sewing operation.Clothing bias cutting has adopted the design of 45 ° of positive tilted directions to constitute on Mechanical Builds simultaneously, makes have strong asymmetry cutting apart of oblique lines, has broken in the past mechanically lines to be divided into vertically or the Design Thinking convention of level.Particularly tapered cut has made full use of the oblique tensile special performance of weaving face fabric, has embodied the characteristics of modern textile lining to a certain extent, even lining does not have the Lycra composition can be stretched yet.Clothes fashion after the tapered cut and moulding, no matter at morphosis, wear on effect and the visual experience, can both reach a kind of effect of natural harmony.Especially the smooth lines of tapered cut generation and oblique asymmetric garment piece combination can produce a kind of approximate spiral effect, have infinite reverie glamour.This method, the dress designing of a kind of novelty of having deduced and making theory of carrying out 45 ° of oblique cuttings by means of plane or three-dimensional people's platform.
Description of drawings
Further specify the present invention below in conjunction with the drawings and specific embodiments.
Fig. 1 is skirt prototype structure figure
Fig. 2 is a tapered cut skirt frame diagram
Fig. 3 is tapered cut skirt measurements of the chest, waist and hips transition diagrams
Fig. 4 is tapered cut skirt stern waist difference secondary transferring figure
Fig. 5 is upper garment prototype structure figure
Fig. 6 is a tapered cut upper garment frame diagram
Fig. 7 is a tapered cut upper garment provincial highway transition diagram
Fig. 8 is a tapered cut upper garment provincial highway pie graph
Fig. 9 is tapered cut six panel skirt style figure
Figure 10 is tapered cut six panel skirt frame diagrams
Figure 11 is tapered cut six panel skirt structure charts
Figure 12 is tapered cut two panel skirt style figure
Figure 13 is tapered cut two panel skirt frame diagrams
Figure 14 is tapered cut two panel skirt waist mouth figure
Figure 15 is tapered cut two panel skirt structure charts
Figure 16 is tapered cut one-piece dress style figure
Figure 17 is a tapered cut one-piece dress frame diagram
Figure 18 is a tapered cut one-piece dress structure chart
Figure 19 is a tapered cut one-piece skirt frame diagram
Figure 20 is that tapered cut one-piece skirt waist is economized setting figure
Figure 21 is tapered cut one-piece skirt built-up pattern figure
Figure 22 is that the tapered cut one-piece skirt is cut apart expanded view
Figure 23 is tapered cut one-piece skirt train of dress moulding figure
Figure 24 is tapered cut one-piece skirt clean stitched seam pattern figure
Figure 25 is tapered cut eight panel skirt monolithic pie graphs
Figure 26 is tapered cut eight panel skirt built-up pattern figure
Figure 27 is tapered cut eight panel skirt skirt sheet Pareto diagrams
Figure 28 is that tapered cut eight panel skirt lines are cut apart figure
Figure 29 is that the design of tapered cut eight panel skirts constitutes procedure chart
Figure 30 is tapered cut one-piece dress (four a types) frame diagram
Figure 31 is tapered cut one-piece dress (four types) the provincial highway location drawing
Figure 32 is tapered cut one-piece dress (four a types) provincial highway transition diagram
Figure 33 is tapered cut one-piece dress (four a types) provincial highway pie graph
Figure 34 is tapered cut one-piece dress (four a types) structure chart
Figure 35 is tapered cut one-piece dress (four a types) train of dress inserted sheet pie graph
The specific embodiment
For technological means, creation characteristic that the present invention is realized, reach purpose and effect is easy to understand, below in conjunction with the specific embodiment, further set forth the present invention.
1, tapered cut skirt principle
Referring to Fig. 1,2,3,4.
Set up tapered cut skirt prototype, the basic structure of its skirt prototype the position such as is enclosed by skirt length, waistline, stern long (height), hip circumference, train of dress and is constituted.The skirt prototype can deciliter build and two kinds of loose types, and the difference between them is whether waist has province's pleat, hip circumference whether will add quantity of margin and what.
1.1 skirt prototype structure
Referring to Fig. 1.
(1) the skirt prototype selects for use straight skirt in the plane cutting as the prototype model.
(2) specifications design: number type 160/66A, skirt length 60, waistline 66 (no quantity of margin), hip circumference 90 (no quantity of margin).
(3) constitute main points: the long L of skirt deducts the loose 3cm of waist by the skirt long size; Waistline is to the about 18cm of hipline; Forward and backward waistline computing formula is W/4; When stern waist difference during less than 24cm, forward and backward skirt sheet 2,1 is established four waists and is economized, and when stern waist difference during greater than 24cm, forward and backward skirt sheet 2,1 is established eight waists and economized; This prototype is that four waists are economized, and preceding skirt sheet 2 waists are economized loose about 3cm, long 10cm, and back skirt sheet 1 waist is economized loose about 3cm, long 11cm; Forward and backward hip circumference computing formula is H/4; Forward and backward train of dress encloses size and is equal to forward and backward hip circumference size.
1.2 tapered cut skirt framework
Referring to Fig. 2.
(1) on the basis of finishing skirt prototype pattern, the forward and backward skirt sheet 2,1 of skirt prototype pattern is put (horizontal aligument waistline 3 and hipline 4) side by side by latasuture; The prototype profile and the preceding back waist dart of skirt sheet 2 a slices, back skirt sheet 1 a slice before drawing respectively from right to left on this basis then.
(2) prolong the long line 5 of horizontal waistline 3, hipline 4 and skirt respectively left.
(3) on horizontal waistline 3, choose intersection point with back skirt sheet center line, front and back latasuture line, preceding skirt sheet center line as oblique line datum mark 6, direction is made three 45 ° of oblique lines and prolongs with the long line of skirt to intersect to left down respectively, i.e. left side oblique line 7, center oblique line 8 and right side oblique line 9.
2, the skirt prototype shifts
It is directly to cut out the key point that prototype changes into tapered cut that skirt prototype measurements of the chest, waist and hips shift, and must keep self-consistentency after wherein waistline and hip circumference specification shift, and train of dress can carry out various Geometric Graph Modelling after enclosing transfer.
2.1 the skirt measurements of the chest, waist and hips shift
Referring to Fig. 3.
(1) waistline shifts: it is emphasis during the skirt prototype shifts that waistline shifts, and comprises that stern waist difference shifts 10 and the Yao Kou transfer that warps.
(2) hip circumference shifts 11: tapered cut skirt hip circumference is mainly satisfied in the hip circumference transfer must be the same with hip circumference size in the prototype, and on same horizontal line.
(3) train of dress encloses and shifts 12: train of dress enclose transfer mainly satisfy tapered cut skirt train of dress enclose with prototype in train of dress to enclose size the same, and on same horizontal line.
2.2 skirt stern waist difference secondary transferring
Referring to Fig. 4.
If shift by the stern waist difference value in the straight sanction skirt prototype, will find after the transfer and the tapered cut waist size between tangible error is arranged, the tapered cut waist size after promptly shifting is bigger than normal than the specification before shifting.At this moment just must carry out the stern waist difference transfer second time, by the size of required waistline, adjust once more, the tapered cut waistline specification after guaranteeing to shift is errorless.Skirt stern waist difference secondary transferring has two kinds of methods.
(1) shift on the surplus both sides: will have more the surplus of difference, in flared skirt sheet waist Kou Chu both sides mean allocation, the both sides mean transferred 13,14 then.
(2) the monolateral transfer of surplus: will have more the surplus of difference, in the monolateral distribution in mouth place of flared skirt sheet waist, monolateral then transfer 15.
2, tapered cut upper garment principle
Referring to Fig. 5, Fig. 6.
Set up tapered cut upper garment prototype, the basic structure of its prototype upper garment is made of positions such as chest measurement, waistline, hip circumference, shoulder across and back of the body length.The upper garment prototype can deciliter build and two kinds of loose types, and the difference between them is quantity of margin and what whether the measurements of her breasts, waist and hips will add.
2.1 upper garment prototype structure
Referring to Fig. 5.
(1) the upper garment prototype selects for use common crock in the plane cutting as the prototype model.
(2) specifications design: number type 160/84A, chest measurement 84 (no quantity of margin), waistline 66 (no quantity of margin), hip circumference 90 (no quantity of margin), shoulder across 38, the back of the body long 38
(3) constitute main points: with B/2 and back clothing length as basic framework; Make BL BUST LINE by B/6+7cm downwards by upper horizontal line; Forward and backward chest measurement is got B/4 greatly; Front cross is B/6+1.8cm, and back is wealthy to be B/6+3cm; Before head straight for and get B/20+3.2cm, preceding horizontal open-neck collar is got B/20+2.7cm; After head straight for get the fixed number 2.6cm, the back horizontal open-neck collar get B/20+2.9cm; By making the crop draft angle at 8: 3.2, by making the back porch draft angle at 8: 2.6; Measure the back shoulder breadth by shoulder/2, subtract 0.5cm by the little shoulder in back and make preceding little shoulder breadth.Preceding Armhole dart and forward and backward waist are economized to constitute and are seen (Fig. 5), and all the other outline lines are drawn suitable by figure as line.
2.2 tapered cut upper garment framework
Referring to Fig. 6.
(1) on the basis of finishing crock prototype pattern, the rear garment piece 1 of crock prototype pattern, front cut pieces 2 are put (horizontal aligument BL BUST LINE 3 or hipline 5) side by side by latasuture; Prototype profile of 1 two of rear garment pieces, 2 two of front cut pieces, rear garment piece 1 a slice and the provincial highway on all garment pieces then on this basis from right to left draw respectively.
(2) prolong the long line 6 of horizontal BL BUST LINE 3, waistline 4, hipline 5 and clothing respectively left.
(3) make tapered cut central vertical line 11 at front cut pieces 2 front edge line position places, its length equals or exceeds the long line 6 of clothing.Economize the high point of high point and rear garment piece 1 You Bei province as oblique line datum mark 12,13,14 with front cut pieces 2 right chests, 3 45 ° of oblique lines 8,9,10 are made in the below left, in 1/2 distance of left side oblique line 8, remake 2 provincial highway oblique lines 15,16 respectively with center oblique line 9 and center oblique line 9 and right side oblique line 10.
2.3 provincial highway shifts
The formation difficult point of tapered cut upper garment Mechanical Builds is that provincial highway shifts, and promptly how will directly cut out the provincial highway on the upper garment prototype and the chest waist difference at waist joint place and be transferred on the oblique cut-off rule of tapered cut upper garment.Provincial highway moulding on the tapered cut garment piece and the provincial highway moulding on the upper garment prototype be difference to some extent also, and the big or small length of its height need be decided flexibly on concrete condition.
(1) intersection point that picks up five oblique lines 8,9,10,15,16 and waistline 4 respectively is a datum mark, makes the provincial highway line of transference 15 perpendicular to oblique line.
(2) pick up left side 8 respectively, center 9,10 3 oblique lines in right side are datum mark with the intersection point of hipline, work is perpendicular to the hip circumference line of transference 16 of oblique line.
(3) from right to left, provincial highway size and the chest waist difference that will directly cut out successively in the forward and backward garment piece of crock are transferred on the oblique provincial highway line of transference, and the big a small amount of of tapered cut provincial highway after the transfer must equate with the big a small amount of of provincial highway in shifting preceding prototype garment piece.
(4) the provincial highway length after definite the transfer, the height point of provincial highway is identical with straight sanction provincial highway, and the low spot of provincial highway and hipline intersect.The oblique then olive-type camber line provincial highway that draws.
Tapered cut upper garment provincial highway transition diagram and tapered cut upper garment provincial highway pie graph are seen Fig. 7 and Fig. 8 respectively.
Referring to Fig. 8.Left dorsal in the prototype rear garment piece is economized wide amount A, shifts the low back that becomes on the tapered cut rear garment piece and saves protruding gesture A '.
Right side side seam chest waist difference B in the forward and backward garment piece of prototype shifts the back of the body that becomes on the tapered cut rear garment piece and economizes wide amount B '.
Right side chest in the prototype front cut pieces is economized wide amount C, shifts the Attacking Midfielder who becomes on the tapered cut rear garment piece and saves recessed gesture C '.
Left side chest in the prototype front cut pieces is economized wide amount D, shifts the Attacking Midfielder who becomes on the tapered cut rear garment piece and saves recessed gesture D '.
Left side side seam chest waist difference E in the forward and backward garment piece of prototype shifts the chest that becomes on the tapered cut front cut pieces and economizes wide amount E '.
The right side back of the body in the prototype rear garment piece is economized wide amount F, shifts the low back that becomes on the tapered cut rear garment piece and saves protruding gesture F '.
By the introduction of above-mentioned tapered cut skirt and tapered cut upper garment relative theory and basic skills, technical problem to be solved by this invention provides the clothing bias cutting that series such as a kind of tapered cut skirt, one-piece dress and the upper garment that can make multiple style and trousers change.
In order to realize the foregoing invention purpose, clothing bias cutting example provided by the invention is tapered cut six panel skirts, tapered cut two panel skirts and tapered cut one-piece dress (two types) etc.
Referring to example 1, example 2, example 3, example of the present invention is to be used for tapered cut six panel skirts, tapered cut two panel skirts and tapered cut one-piece dress (two types), and it is made respectively in the following way:
Example 1
Referring to Fig. 9, Figure 10 and Figure 11.Present embodiment is an example with tapered cut six panel skirts, introduces its oblique support method.
1.1 style feature general introduction
Referring to Fig. 9.The skirt sheet is 6; Carry out oblique cutting apart to the lower-left from upper right, skirt loin portion to buttocks wraps up human body, begins to be the loose moulding of nature below the buttocks.The skirt waist is for connecting the waist type, and forward and backward waist mouth does not have pleat and do not have province; Train of dress is that right angle train of dress and formation wave are bigger, the oblique seam part upper end dress CONCEAL ZIPPER cut apart of low back mouth.
1.2 tapered cut six panel skirt frameworks
Referring to Figure 10.At first make 2 vertical lines 1,2, remake the long line 6 of horizontal waistline 3, hipline 4, boost line 5 and skirt, the intersection point of choosing left and right side vertical line 1,2 and horizontal waistline 3 then respectively is an oblique line datum mark 9, and 2 45 ° of oblique lines 7,8 are made in the below left.
1.3 tapered cut six panel skirt structures
Referring to Figure 11.Waist is economized transfer amount: waist is economized transfer amount 18 width numerical value, is equal to waist mouth rising quantity 20 numerical value.Waist mouth perk amount: (H-W)/6+X, X is an adjusted value in the formula, as gets 1.3.
19 is waist mouth tool setting mark among Figure 11, and 12,12 is latasuture tool setting mark.14 is the center of circle when making circular arc.15 is right angle tool setting mark.Left side seam length must equate with upper right section latasuture, right angle latasuture sum.Select circular arc and the long line intersection point of skirt long as skirt, also can select left side oblique line and the long line intersection point of the skirt starting point as circular arc, then tiltedly significant change can take place in skirt length and train of dress effect.Bottom shape and arc size can be selected arbitrarily.Line segment shown in 16 is parallel with the right side oblique line, and Numerical Control is 5～8.17 for shifting out to the right.
Example 2,
Referring to 12,13,14,15.Present embodiment is an example with tapered cut two panel skirts, introduces its bias cutting method.
2.1 style feature general introduction
Referring to Figure 12.The skirt sheet is 2; Carry out oblique cutting apart to the lower-left from upper right, skirt loin portion to buttocks wraps up human body, begins to be the loose moulding of nature below the buttocks.The skirt waist is bent over for connecting the waist type, and forward and backward waist mouth replaces waist with line of dip moulding and economizes; Train of dress is the square moulding in right angle, and forms the wave that just differs; The oblique seam part upper end dress CONCEAL ZIPPER cut apart of low back mouth.
2.2 tapered cut two panel skirt frameworks
Referring to Figure 13.At first make right side vertical line 3, its length equals the long size L of skirt.With the right side vertical line is datum line, makes the long line 7 of horizontal waistline 4, hipline 5, boost line 6 and skirt from top to bottom respectively.Its MHL MIDDLE HIPS LINE 5 is about 17～20cm to waistline 4, and boost line 6 is about 15～18cm to hipline 5, and the long line of skirt is pressed specification.Because this example stern waist difference is 24, therefore must be with this stern waist difference uniform distribution, Qi Yao economizes and sets up with reference to the straight prototype of cutting out, for front, rear, left and right amount to four.Press H/2 hip circumference size from the right side vertical line to left, make left vertical line 1, and then make central vertical line 2 by H/4.The intersection point of choosing right side, center and left vertical line 1,2,3 and horizontal waistline 4 respectively is an oblique line datum mark 11, and direction is made three 45 ° of oblique lines 8,9,10 and prolong with the long line 7 of skirt to intersect to left down, i.e. left side oblique line 8, center oblique line 9 and right side oblique line 10.
2.3 the waist mouth warps and waist is economized
Referring to Figure 14.
(1), upwards makes the waist mouth and warp at the intersection point place of horizontal waistline and right side vertical line.
Waist mouth rising quantity 21 computing formula are: (H-W)/4+x, x is an adjusted value in the formula, the x value reaches W/4 with 1/4 skirt sheet waist mouth place size and is as the criterion.Waist mouth rising quantity in this example is 8.1cm, and wherein (H-W)/4 value is 6cm, and the x adjusted value is 2.1cm.
(2), set waist and economize two according to stern waist difference value.At the intersection point place of waistline 4 and left vertical line 1, level is carried out waist to the right and is economized transfer, and the width numerical value that waist is economized transfer amount 12 is 8.1cm, is equal to waist mouth rising quantity 21 numerical value substantially, and the length that waist is economized transfer amount 12 can not surpass hipline 5.
(3) Jiang Yaokou warp a little with shift after waist economize and be connected, form waist mouth line.
(4) warp point, waist of Jiang Yaokou economized branchpoint and is connected with hipline.
2.4 tapered cut two panel skirt structures
Referring to Figure 15.
(1) on two panel skirt waist mouth straight lines, the concave shaped camber line 18 slightly.
(2) the spirogyrate camber line 20,17 slightly in two panel skirt both sides.
(3) sew in both sides and make tool setting mark 14,15
On the waist mouth, make waist mouth tool setting mark 19.On latasuture, make right angle tool setting mark 16.
A-B-C-D-E among the figure, A '-B '-C '-D '-E ' all are the right angle moulding.Make drop wire under B ', its length equals B ' F.The selection of CD length is determined, also is related to the variation of oblique skirt length.
Example 3
Referring to Figure 16,17,18.Present embodiment is an example with tapered cut one-piece dress (two types), introduces its bias cutting method.
3.1 style feature general introduction
Referring to Figure 16.The one-piece dress garment piece is 2, carries out oblique cutting apart to the lower-left from upper right; No neck formula Jewel neck, sleeve-free type circle are tucked inside the sleeve infirmity; Chest, waist to buttocks wrap up human body, begin to be the loose moulding of nature below the buttocks; Train of dress is the A font and forms rips, retreads to seam part upper end dress CONCEAL ZIPPER of cutting apart.
3.2 tapered cut one-piece dress (two types) framework
Referring to Figure 17.Tapered cut central vertical line 10 is made at the place at front cut pieces front edge line position, and its length equals the long line of skirt.Make the long line 6 of BL BUST LINE 3, waistline 4, hipline 5 and skirt from top to bottom respectively in the horizontal direction.Economize the high point of high point and rear garment piece 1 You Bei province as oblique line datum mark 14 with front cut pieces 2 right chests, 3 45 ° of oblique lines 7,8,9 are made in the below left, in 1/2 distance of left side oblique line 7, remake 2 provincial highway oblique lines 11,12 respectively with center oblique line 8 and center oblique line 8 and right side oblique line 9.
3.3 tapered cut one-piece dress (two types) structure
Referring to Figure 18.Successively that provincial highway size and chest waist in the forward and backward garment piece 2,1 of prototype is poor from right to left, be transferred on the one-piece forward and backward clothing skirt sheet of tapered cut.Tapered cut provincial highway size after the transfer must with shift before provincial highway equal and opposite in direction in the forward and backward garment piece of prototype, tapered cut provincial highway height up and down can not surpass BL BUST LINE and hipline.The moulding of train of dress and size can be selected design as required.15,16,17,18 are the tool setting mark among the figure.19 radially silk tuft symbols when the cutting.Train of dress size 20 can be selected as required.
Referring to Figure 19,20,21,22,23,24, present embodiment is an example with the tapered cut one-piece skirt, introduces bias cutting method.
Referring to Figure 19.Make three vertical lines earlier, promptly left vertical line 5, central vertical line 6, right side vertical line 7 promptly remake horizontal waistline 8, hipline 9, boost line 10, the long line 11 of skirt, remake two and half hip circumference vertical lines 12,13.The intersection point of getting left vertical line 5, central vertical line 6, right side vertical line 7 and horizontal waistline 8 respectively is an oblique line datum mark 14,15, make the three 45 ° oblique lines 16,17,18 that intersect with the long line 11 of skirt downwards, oblique line 17 promptly, center oblique line 18, right side oblique line 19.The intersection point of getting two halves hip circumference vertical line 12,13 and horizontal waistline 8 is respectively made the two 45 ° oblique lines 19,20 that intersect with boost line 10 downwards as the oblique line datum mark.
Referring to Figure 20.Carry out provincial highway and shift, the waist after the transfer is economized length can not surpass hipline.
Waist is economized and set: according to waist stern difference data, set waist and economize four, waist is economized transfer amount 21 width numerical value and is equal to waist mouth rising quantity 22 numerical value.
Waist mouth rising quantity 22:(H-W)/and 4+X, X is an adjusted value in the formula, present embodiment X gets 1.5.
Referring to Figure 21.It is closed that Jiang Yao economizes part, and waistline is partly connected, and forms waist mouth line.
The right angle train of dress: at the right angle cycloid of point 23 works perpendicular to right side oblique line 18, and prolongation is downwards intersected with the long line 11 of skirt.
Oblique line under the hipline is comprised that left side oblique line 16, center oblique line 17, right side oblique line 18, the extended line of oblique line 19, the extended line of oblique line 20, right angle train of dress line cut off, make its expansion.
Referring to Figure 22.With the part combination of hipline more than 9, the left side forms waist mouth line 24.Group's sheet 1,2,3,4 presses waist mouth line and hipline connects arrangement.
Referring to Figure 23.Waist mouth 25 is the spill camber line slightly.Left and right latasuture 26,27 is the spirogyrate camber line slightly.The long point 30 of skirt is connected, and carry out arc modeling.
Referring to Figure 24.On the left of the skirt sheet, sew on and be provided with waist mouth tool setting sign 28, right angle tool setting sign 29.
Referring to Figure 25, Figure 26, Figure 27, Figure 28, Figure 29.Present embodiment constitutes the bias cutting method of procedure declaration clothes with the design of tapered cut eight panel skirts.
Referring to Figure 25.During the monolithic of eight panel skirts constituted, waist was economized transfer amount 12: waist is economized transfer amount 12 width numerical value, is equal to waist mouth rising quantity 13 numerical value.Waist mouth rising quantity 13:(H-W)/and 8+X, X is an adjusted value in the formula, present embodiment X gets 0.6.
Sew in the left side and to be provided with horizontal partition line 16.
Waist is economized transfer amount 14 length numerical value, can not surpass hipline.
Train of dress home position 15 is sewed in the left side.
The length that the long L of skirt represents is that skirt length-waist is loose.
Referring to Figure 26. Skirt sheet 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 waists are economized part (the waist mouth warps line 9 to hipline 10 parts) closure, train of dress part (hipline 10 is to the long line 11 of skirt) is cut off.Between the long line of hipline 10 and skirt train of dress right-angle line 10a.
Referring to Figure 27.With the first skirt sheet, 1 vertical vertical array.Skirt sheet 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 is pressed waist mouth camber line connect arrangement.1, must reserve between 3,5, the 7 skirt sheets and put a seam part space.
Referring to Figure 28.Cut off four of inserted sheets in 17 minutes along the inserted sheet cut-off rule, remaining is four in flakes.Piece together the angle cut-off rule along the waist mouth and cut off two of the waist mouth straight angles in 18 minutes.Horizontal partition line 19 width are about 7.5～8.5, and angle is parallel with waist mouth cut-off rule 20.
Referring to Figure 29
Be four in flakes 20 shown in the figure, 21 4 of inserted sheets, the waist mouth is pieced together angle 22 2 (clean stitched seam), the waist of trousers 23 a slices (clean stitched seam).Four have right angle tool setting mark 24 on 20 in flakes, and left and right connects tool setting mark 25, radial symbol 26.Right angle tool setting sign 21 is arranged, radial symbol 8 on inserted sheet 21.
Referring to Figure 30, Figure 31, Figure 32, Figure 33, Figure 34, Figure 35.The utility model is an example with tapered cut one-piece dress (four types).The pie graph series of tapered cut one-piece dress (four types) has been described, has explained its tapered cut one-piece dress (four types) design formation process.
Referring to Figure 30.On the basis of finishing crock prototype pattern, the rear garment piece 1 of crock prototype pattern, front cut pieces 2 are put (horizontal aligument BL BUST LINE or hipline) side by side by latasuture; Draw respectively from right to left on this basis then 1 two of rear garment pieces, front cut pieces 2 a slices, 2 two of front cut pieces, the prototype profile of rear garment piece 1 a slice.
Prolong horizontal BL BUST LINE 3, waistline 4, hipline 5, the train of dress inserted sheet position line 6 respectively left, the long line 7 of skirt.
Central vertical line 8 before tapered cut is made at front cut pieces 2 front edge line position places, its length equals the long line of skirt.Make tapered cut rear center vertical line 9 in front and back film gate 1 flap stopper line position, its length equals the long line of skirt.Economize the high point of high point and rear garment piece 1 You Bei province as oblique line datum mark 10 with front cut pieces 2 right chests, 6 45 ° of oblique lines 11,12,13,14,15,16 are made in the below left, left side oblique line 11 promptly, preceding center oblique line 12, preceding right side oblique line 13, left side, back oblique line 14, rear center's oblique line 15, back right side oblique line 16.
Referring to Figure 31.Provincial highway line of transference 17 and oblique line 11,12,13,14,15,16 vertical and and waistline 4 intersect, provincial highway line of transference 17 is the six roots of sensation altogether.Hip circumference line of transference 18 and oblique line 11,12,13,14,15,16 vertical and and hipline intersect totally four of hip circumference lines of transference 18.
Referring to Figure 32, Figure 33.Zuo Bei in the prototype rear garment piece economizes wide amount A, shifts the low back that becomes on the tapered cut rear garment piece and saves protruding gesture A '.Right side seam chest waist difference B in the forward and backward garment piece of prototype shifts the back of the body that becomes on the tapered cut rear garment piece and economizes wide amount B '.Right chest in the prototype front cut pieces is economized wide amount C, shifts the Attacking Midfielder who becomes on the tapered cut rear garment piece and saves recessed gesture C '.Left chest in the prototype front cut pieces is economized wide amount D, shifts the Attacking Midfielder who becomes on the tapered cut rear garment piece and saves recessed gesture D '.Left side seam chest waist difference E in the forward and backward garment piece of prototype shifts the chest that becomes on the tapered cut front cut pieces and economizes wide amount E '.You Bei in the prototype rear garment piece economizes wide amount F, shifts the low back that becomes on the tapered cut front cut pieces and saves recessed gesture F '.
Referring to Figure 34.Make upper left mouthful of position 19 of skirt inserted sheet, mouth position, skirt sheet lower-left 21, upper right mouthful of position 20 of skirt inserted sheet, mouth position, skirt inserted sheet bottom right 22.
Referring to Figure 35.The formation of skirt inserted sheet.Make a square, square catercorner length is upper left mouthful to lower-left mouth size more than or equal to the skirt inserted sheet.Skirt inserted sheet width 23 suitable for reading equals skirt sheet inserted sheet width mouth suitable for reading size.Outer camber line 24 length of skirt inserted sheet equate with skirt sheet left side straight length.Camber line 25 length equate with skirt sheet right side straight length in the skirt inserted sheet.Warp 26 rising quantity of skirt inserted sheet is 10.
More than show and described basic principle of the present invention, principal character and advantage of the present invention.The technical staff of the industry should understand; the present invention is not restricted to the described embodiments; that describes in the foregoing description and the specification just illustrates principle of the present invention; the present invention also has various changes and modifications without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention, and these changes and improvements all fall in the claimed scope of the invention.The claimed scope of the present invention is defined by appending claims and equivalent thereof.
Claims (3)
1. clothing bias cutting method is characterized in that: with 45 ° of oblique drawing and plate-making, when formal discharge and cutting, the oblique parallel of pattern carries out cutting then in the warp-wise discharge of lining when pattern tissue is made.
2. clothing bias cutting method according to claim 1 is characterized in that: 45 ° of oblique draping orientations as clothing bias cutting of lining, the warp-wise of lining splicing seams part during as oblique cut-off rule, cutting discharge direction and sewing.
3. clothing bias cutting method according to claim 1 is characterized in that: utilization semicircle, rectangle, triangle or rhombus moulding in the clothing bias cutting shape-designing.
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| CNA2007100447354A CN101278765A (en) | 2007-08-09 | 2007-08-09 | Clothing bias cutting method |
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| CNA2007100447354A CN101278765A (en) | 2007-08-09 | 2007-08-09 | Clothing bias cutting method |
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| CN101278765A true CN101278765A (en) | 2008-10-08 |
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| CNA2007100447354A Pending CN101278765A (en) | 2007-08-09 | 2007-08-09 | Clothing bias cutting method |
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| CN102542390A (en) * | 2010-12-24 | 2012-07-04 | 福建凤竹纺织科技股份有限公司 | Optimized discharging method for clothes production |
| CN102920080A (en) * | 2012-11-26 | 2013-02-13 | 李玉莉 | Tailor processing method of clothing material |
| CN103668731A (en) * | 2012-09-12 | 2014-03-26 | 江苏景盟针织企业有限公司 | Woven patch structure, knitter for knitting woven patches and weaving sewing method |
| CN104905457A (en) * | 2015-05-04 | 2015-09-16 | 深圳市美立方时尚用品有限公司 | 3D motion fine tailoring method for clothing |
| CN105595493A (en) * | 2016-01-28 | 2016-05-25 | 江西服装学院 | Business suit tapered cutting method and business suit cut piece |
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| CN102542390A (en) * | 2010-12-24 | 2012-07-04 | 福建凤竹纺织科技股份有限公司 | Optimized discharging method for clothes production |
| CN103668731A (en) * | 2012-09-12 | 2014-03-26 | 江苏景盟针织企业有限公司 | Woven patch structure, knitter for knitting woven patches and weaving sewing method |
| CN103668731B (en) * | 2012-09-12 | 2016-01-20 | 江苏景盟针织企业有限公司 | A kind of knit chip architecture with braiding this knit the braiding machine of sheet and weave sewing method |
| CN102920080A (en) * | 2012-11-26 | 2013-02-13 | 李玉莉 | Tailor processing method of clothing material |
| WO2014079117A1 (en) * | 2012-11-26 | 2014-05-30 | Li Yuli | Cutting processing method of clothing material |
| CN104905457B (en) * | 2015-05-04 | 2016-10-05 | 深圳市美立方时尚用品有限公司 | A kind of clothing 3D motion essence sanction method |
| CN104905457A (en) * | 2015-05-04 | 2015-09-16 | 深圳市美立方时尚用品有限公司 | 3D motion fine tailoring method for clothing |
| CN105595493A (en) * | 2016-01-28 | 2016-05-25 | 江西服装学院 | Business suit tapered cutting method and business suit cut piece |
| CN108634411A (en) * | 2018-05-21 | 2018-10-12 | 山东舒朗电子商务有限公司 | A kind of Novel trousers and its method for platemaking |
| CN110226792A (en) * | 2019-07-22 | 2019-09-13 | 山东工艺美术学院 | A kind of paper pattern design skirt prototype ruler and its application method of charting |
| CN110226792B (en) * | 2019-07-22 | 2021-04-13 | 山东工艺美术学院 | Skirt prototype ruler for pattern design and drawing use method thereof |
| CN111368352A (en) * | 2019-09-03 | 2020-07-03 | 四川大学 | Method for constructing parameterized bias skirt prototype based on AutoCAD software |
| CN111358099A (en) * | 2019-09-05 | 2020-07-03 | 四川大学 | Method for constructing parameterized inclined-cut circular skirt |
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