CN111358099A - Method for constructing parameterized inclined-cut circular skirt - Google Patents

Method for constructing parameterized inclined-cut circular skirt Download PDF

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CN111358099A
CN111358099A CN201910834403.9A CN201910834403A CN111358099A CN 111358099 A CN111358099 A CN 111358099A CN 201910834403 A CN201910834403 A CN 201910834403A CN 111358099 A CN111358099 A CN 111358099A
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skirt
bias
cut
circular
parameterized
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张皋鹏
华启耀
陈咪
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Sichuan University
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Sichuan University
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/007Methods of drafting or marking-out patterns using computers

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
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Abstract

The invention discloses a method for constructing a parameterized inclined-cut circular skirt. By means of the parameterization function of the AutoCAD 2020 edition, a parameterization bias-cut circular skirt template is constructed, so that the bias-cut angle, the number of bias-cut pieces, the waistline, the hip circumference, the circular skirt control line and other related variables of the bias-cut circular skirt can be quickly and accurately adjusted and modified, and the problems of slow generation and difficult generation of the bias-cut skirt paper pattern in the current clothing market are solved. The parameterized bias-cut circular skirt constructed by the method does not need to be put in order, and can generate an individualized bias-cut circular skirt by adjusting the key size, and the bias-cut angle of the parameterized bias-cut circular skirt can be adjusted randomly between 45 degrees and 90 degrees; the number of the diagonal pieces of the parameterized circular skirt can be adjusted at will according to the specific style and the requirements of customers. The parameterized bias-cut circular pendulum skirt disclosed by the invention not only improves the generation efficiency of the bias-cut skirt paper pattern, but also solves the problem of quickly generating an accurate sample plate of the personalized bias-cut skirt paper pattern, and meets the requirement of the digital development of clothes on the accuracy of the paper pattern design.

Description

Method for constructing parameterized inclined-cut circular skirt
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of garment structures, in particular to a method for constructing a parameterized inclined-cut circular skirt.
Background
The oblique cutting is a cutting method which adopts an included angle between the warp direction of the fabric and the drooping line of the clothes, utilizes the performance change of oblique extensibility and the like of the fabric, and utilizes the included angle of warp and weft yarn locks of the fabric to be oblique as the suspension direction of the clothes, so that the clothes can wrap the body of a person naturally and snugly, a beautiful curve of a female can be reflected, and meanwhile, enough looseness and space are left for the movement of the person. The asymmetric oblique cutting in the oblique cutting technology has dynamic effect, so that the appearance of the clothes is elegant and smooth, and a three-dimensional visual effect similar to a spiral shape is generated.
The clothing bias cutting has the most outstanding advantages that the skirt is uniform in wave distribution and symmetrical in wave trough, and the floating effect of the waves is achieved along with the action of wearing limbs of a human body. The design of the lower hem of the oblique cutting skirt can be freely played according to geometric figures, a fixed mode is not needed, and the size randomness is high. The common skirt pendants have the shapes of circles, semi-circles, squares, collars, triangles and the like. The waist of the front and the rear skirt pieces of the oblique-cutting circular swinging skirt is free from being saved and has no pleat, the part from the waist to the hip of the skirt body wraps the human body, and the lower hem is circular. The oblique cutting round swinging skirt is longer than the common skirt, the waist circumference is tight waist circumference, the hip circumference is tight hip circumference, and the looseness is not required to be added generally.
The existing diagonal cut clothing patterns on the market are mostly drawn in a single piece, because the diagonal cut clothing patterns can not obtain the patterns with different specification and size through stacking like the straight cut clothing patterns. In addition, after the slashing paper pattern is drawn, if the slashing angle and the number of the slashing pieces are required to be adjusted again, the slashing paper pattern needs to be drawn again, so that a great amount of repetitive labor is brought to a platemaker, the repeated utilization of the slashing paper pattern is limited to a certain extent, and the application and the development of the slashing clothes are limited.
AutoCAD software since 2010 edition has provided parameterization tools that include two types of constraints: geometric constraints and dimensional constraints.
Geometric constraints are used to define relationships between objects of a graphic. The user can ensure an accurate positional relationship between the graphic objects through geometric constraints. The constraint types include: coincident, collinear, parallel, perpendicular, concentric, tangential, etc. The labeling constraint is used for constraining the distance, the angle, the radius and the diameter, the labeling constraint can lock the object and keep the fixed size of the object, and the size of the constrained object can be changed by modifying parameters and expressions.
Geometric constraints and size constraints are added between the graphic objects by the parameterization tool of the AutoCAD software. By defining parameters and establishing a functional relation, association constraint is generated between the graphic objects, and a parameterized model is constructed. The user may enforce various designs and modifications using geometric constraints and annotation constraints. And the original graph can be driven to automatically generate a new graph by modifying the parameters and the functional relation.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a method for conveniently and quickly changing the number of inclined cutting pieces, the inclined cutting angle and the relevant dimension specification of an inclined cutting circular skirt, and aims to quickly and accurately generate an individualized skirt paper pattern of an inclined cutting, reduce the repetitive labor of a platemaker and reduce the production cost and the production period of an enterprise.
In order to achieve the aim, the invention discloses a method for constructing a parameterized inclined-cut circular skirt, which is characterized by comprising the following steps of: step1, constructing a digital bias skirt prototype. Taking model 160/68A as an example, the digital oblique-cut circular skirt is drawn by using AutoCAD software (available in CAD of costumes such as Fuyi, Gebo, etc.), and stored in DWG format.
step 2, constructing a parameterized bias-cut circular skirt model. The digital circular skirt drawn by step1 is led into AutoCAD software, the parameterization tool of the digital circular skirt is used for carrying out geometric constraint and marking constraint, and association constraint is generated between lines of the circular skirt cut obliquely by defining parameters and establishing a functional relation.
step3, parameterized adjustment of the oblique cutting circular skirt. The establishment of the parameterized bias-cut circular skirt is completed, and key parameters, bias-cut angles and the number of bias-cut pieces can be adjusted through an AutoCAD parameterized panel, so that the personalized bias-cut circular skirt template meeting the requirements can be generated. And realizing the generation of the parameter fast driving template.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a pattern diagram of a circular skirt which is cut obliquely.
Fig. 2 is a frame diagram of a circular skirt with a bias cut.
Fig. 3 shows a structure of a mitre round skirt.
Fig. 4 shows a parametric bias-cut circular skirt constraint map.
Fig. 5 is a parameterized bias-cut circular pendulum skirt geometric constraint diagram.
FIG. 6 is a comparative graph of the specification sizing.
Fig. 7 is a comparison diagram of the cutting angle adjustment.
Fig. 8 is a virtual fitting effect diagram of the bias cutting angle.
FIG. 9 shows the adjustment of the number of slices in a diagonal direction.
Fig. 10 is a view showing the virtual fitting effect of the number of slantwise cut pieces.
Detailed Description
The invention aims to provide a plate making method for conveniently and quickly generating an individualized inclined-cut circular skirt.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention discloses a parameterized bias-cut circular skirt construction method based on AutoCAD software.
In order to make the present invention more comprehensible, a preferred embodiment is described below with reference to the accompanying drawings.
Step1, constructing a digital oblique-cutting circular skirt.
Drawing is carried out by taking AutoCAD 2020 software as a platform and 160/68A for obliquely cutting 4 circular swinging skirts as an example, and the oblique cutting circular swinging skirts are shown in a style diagram as shown in figure 1.
Parameters related to the circular pendulum skirt are selected from the group consisting of waist length = W =680mm, hip length = H =900mm, skirt length =570mm, number of pieces = n =4, and bias cut angle = α =45 °.
Firstly, drawing a mitre circular skirt frame picture. The AutoCAD 2020 is opened, the drawing environment is set, the skirt length is taken as the length, H/n is taken as the width, the waistline and skirt length are drawn with the "rectangle" command, and the rectangle is decomposed into four straight lines with the "decomposition" command.
And (3) taking the waist line as a datum line, and vertically and downwards shifting the waist line by a distance of 180mm of hip length by using a 'shift' command to draw the hip line.
And (4) taking the hip contour as a reference line, vertically and downwards shifting the hip contour by a distance of 180mm by using a 'shift' command, and drawing an auxiliary line.
The intersection point of the right vertical line and the horizontal waistline is taken as a slash 1 reference point, an α =45 ° slash is made in the left-lower direction, and the slash is extended to the skirt length line.
And taking the intersection point of the left vertical line and the horizontal waistline as a datum point of a slant line 2, drawing a slant line of α =45 degrees in the left-lower direction, and extending the slant line to the skirt length line, finishing drawing the 4-piece circular skirt framework drawing, as shown in fig. 2.
And the waist opening is upwards warped at the intersection point of the horizontal waist line and the right vertical line. The calculation formula of the amount of the waist opening warping is as follows: (H-W)/n.
The waist opening transfer is equal to the value of the waist opening upwarp amount, and the waist-saving transfer amount length cannot exceed the hip line. Referring to fig. 3, the intersection point of the left vertical line and the horizontal waistline is used as a reference point, and a numerical value (H-W)/n is calculated by using a "point" tool to determine a point waist-mouth transfer point. And similarly, the point of waist opening upwarp is determined vertically upwards by taking the intersection point of the right vertical line and the horizontal waist line as a reference point. Ensure that the waist opening transfer is equal to the waist opening warping amount value.
And (3) linking the waist opening warping point and the transferred waist province point by using a 'straight line' tool, and drawing a waist opening line by using a 'spline curve fitting' tool to form an arc line which protrudes outwards by about 3 mm. The left waist opening and the right waist opening are respectively connected with the left hip line and the right hip line.
And drawing a circular cycloid, the size of a circular pendulum control line is related to the size of the skirt pendulum of the circular cutting skirt, the position of a central point is determined through the size of the circular pendulum control line and the length of the hip and the geometric relation between line segments, the central angle =2 α, and the lower hem of the circular pendulum skirt is drawn by using an arc tool to finish the digital circular cutting skirt, as shown in fig. 3.
And storing the drawn digital oblique cutting circular skirt into a DWG format, and naming the file as the oblique cutting circular skirt.
And 2, constructing a parameterized bias-cut circular skirt.
And (4) importing the digital oblique cutting circular skirt drawn in the step (1) and setting a drawing environment.
Because the skirt pieces of the bias-cut skirt are consistent in structure and the invention is clearer and easier to understand, only one paper pattern of the bias-cut circular pendulum skirt is drawn to construct the parameterized paper pattern of the bias-cut circular pendulum skirt.
H is the hip circumference, W is the waist circumference, n is the number of the oblique cutting pieces, α is the oblique cutting angle, O1 is the central angle of the circular arc, the radius size of the drawn circular arc does not need to be calculated when the parameterized oblique cutting circular skirt is constructed, and the circular arc can be constrained only by constraining the geometric relationship among all objects through geometric constraint.
And constraining the bias-cut circular skirt by the constraint marking function in the parameterization toolbar. As "vertical" in the single click linear constraint, the first is designated S12, the second point is S13, and the dimension line position value is designated 180 mm. The labeling constraint on the line segment S1S2 is completed.
The same can restrict the bias-cut skirt prototype to other line segments, and the specific restriction is shown in fig. 4.
And (4) constraining the bias-cut circular skirt by a geometric constraint function in the parameterization toolbar. The parametric bias-cut circular pendulum skirt geometric constraint graph is shown in fig. 5. Completing the construction of a parameterized slashing skirt prototype, wherein the constraint data of the parameterized slashing skirt prototype are shown in the following table 1
Figure 338864DEST_PATH_IMAGE001
The method comprises the steps of constructing a parameterized circular skirt with bias cuts, adjusting key size parameters such as the length of the skirt, the hip circumference, the waist circumference and the like to generate paper patterns of the circular skirt with the bias cuts of different specifications, adjusting the parameter α of the angle of the circular skirt with the bias cuts to adjust the angle of the paper patterns, adjusting the parameter n of the number of the pieces of the circular skirt with the bias cuts to adjust the number of the pieces of the paper patterns, and adjusting the size of the skirt with a control line of the circular skirt with the paper patterns.
And 3, carrying out parametric adjustment on the oblique-cutting circular skirt.
Once the parameterized oblique-cutting circular skirt is established, key parameters can be adjusted so as to generate an individualized oblique-cutting circular skirt template meeting the requirements.
The parameterized adjustment of the bias-cut round skirt is explained by adopting 3 methods, and the specific scheme is as follows.
Scheme 1: keeping the angle of oblique cutting and the number of oblique cutting pieces unchanged, and adjusting the specification and size of waistline, hip circumference, circular pendulum control line and the like in the oblique cutting circular pendulum skirt, thereby quickly generating oblique cutting circular pendulum skirt paper patterns with different specification and size. Parametric adjustment comparison figure is shown in figure 6, parametric adjustment data is shown in table 2 below, scheme 1 has no adjustment to the skirt length parameter, and the default skirt length is 670 mm.
Figure 7743DEST_PATH_IMAGE002
Scheme 2, the specification size and the number of the inclined cutting pieces are kept unchanged, only the inclined cutting angle α (between 45 degrees and 90 degrees) is adjusted, and therefore the inclined cutting round swinging skirt templates with different inclined cutting angles are generated rapidly, the skirt length parameter is not adjusted in scheme 2, the default skirt length is 570mm, the parameterized adjustment data is shown in the following table 3, the parameterized adjustment comparison graph is shown in fig. 7, and the virtual fitting effect graph is shown in fig. 8.
Figure 469948DEST_PATH_IMAGE003
Scheme 3: keeping the specification size and the angle of the inclined cutting unchanged, adjusting the number n of the inclined cutting pieces, and quickly generating inclined cutting circular swinging skirt paper patterns with different numbers of the inclined cutting pieces, wherein n =4 and n =6 are taken as examples to generate four or six inclined cutting circular swinging skirt paper patterns. The parametric adjustment contrast graph is shown in fig. 9, and the virtual fitting effect graph is shown in fig. 10.

Claims (3)

1. The invention discloses a method for constructing a parameterized inclined-cut circular skirt, which reduces the repetitive labor of a platemaker and the production cost and the production period of an enterprise, and is characterized by comprising the following steps of: step1, constructing a digital oblique-cutting round skirt, taking 160/68A oblique-cutting round skirt as an example, drawing the digital oblique-cutting round skirt by using AutoCAD software (available in CAD of clothes such as Fuyi, Gebo and the like), and storing the digital oblique-cutting round skirt in a DWG format.
2. The method as claimed in claim 1, further comprising step 2, constructing a parameterized circular skirt type of the bias cut, introducing the digitalized circular skirt drawn by step1 into AutoCAD software, using a parameterization tool thereof to carry out geometric constraint and labeling constraint, and generating association constraint between lines of the circular skirt type of the bias cut by defining parameters and establishing a functional relation.
3. A method of constructing a prototype of a dress skirt according to claims 1 and 2, further comprising: step3, parameterization adjustment of the circular skirt for oblique cutting, establishment of the circular skirt for oblique cutting is completed, key parameters, oblique cutting angles and oblique cutting number can be adjusted through an AutoCAD parameterization panel, and then the personalized circular skirt for oblique cutting template for oblique cutting meeting the requirements can be generated, and the template generation by parameter quick driving is realized.
CN201910834403.9A 2019-09-05 2019-09-05 Method for constructing parameterized inclined-cut circular skirt Pending CN111358099A (en)

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Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1254538A (en) * 1998-11-25 2000-05-31 刘立杰 Tailoring method for clothes
CN101278765A (en) * 2007-08-09 2008-10-08 丁锡强 Clothing bias cutting method
CN102609565A (en) * 2012-01-12 2012-07-25 东华大学 Parameterized brim-structure design method on basis of clothing CAD (computer-aided design) software
CN109461196A (en) * 2018-11-16 2019-03-12 四川大学 A kind of Garment Parametric method for platemaking based on AutoCAD software

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1254538A (en) * 1998-11-25 2000-05-31 刘立杰 Tailoring method for clothes
CN101278765A (en) * 2007-08-09 2008-10-08 丁锡强 Clothing bias cutting method
CN102609565A (en) * 2012-01-12 2012-07-25 东华大学 Parameterized brim-structure design method on basis of clothing CAD (computer-aided design) software
CN109461196A (en) * 2018-11-16 2019-03-12 四川大学 A kind of Garment Parametric method for platemaking based on AutoCAD software

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Application publication date: 20200703