CN110226792A - A kind of paper pattern design skirt prototype ruler and its application method of charting - Google Patents
A kind of paper pattern design skirt prototype ruler and its application method of charting Download PDFInfo
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- CN110226792A CN110226792A CN201910658803.9A CN201910658803A CN110226792A CN 110226792 A CN110226792 A CN 110226792A CN 201910658803 A CN201910658803 A CN 201910658803A CN 110226792 A CN110226792 A CN 110226792A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H1/00—Measuring aids or methods
- A41H1/06—Measuring aids or methods in combination with marking
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/06—Patterns on paper
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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- Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
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Abstract
The present invention relates to dress designing field, especially a kind of paper pattern design skirt prototype ruler and its drawing application method.It includes by D, C, ii, 4 points of O ' composition rear ruler plates with by A, B, i, the preceding ruler plate of 4 points of O compositions, ruler plate is by F after described, the rear hipline that ii ' two o'clock is constituted is divided into rear ruler upper plate and rear ruler lower plate, y ' on rear hipline, m ', x ', j ', hollow hole after being successively arranged one on the rear ruler plate of five points of u ', M ° of province's point of two provincial highway of ruler plate afterwards, J ° of two o'clock correspondence is vertically set on rear hipline m ', above j ' two o'clock, the open setting in two provincial highway positions on ruler plate afterwards, afterwards waistline by ruler plate top part after described DM ', MJ ', three sections of circular arcs of JI ' are constituted.It avoids the human error as caused by when cutting skirt prototype template, guarantees the round and smooth of camber line, can be directly used for skirt paper pattern design, improves design efficiency, solves problems of the prior art.
Description
Technical field:
The present invention relates to dress designing field, especially a kind of paper pattern design skirt prototype ruler and its method for designing and mapping.
Background technique:
Dress designing manufacturing process mainly includes Design modelling, paper pattern design, cuts cloth and sewing tech,
And apparel pattern design is one of the important component of dress designing production, it is particularly critical.If three-dimensional contouring
Clothes, which are dismantled, to be come, and the clothing cutting plate of multiple planes will be resolved into, then the clothing cutting plate of this few plane is exactly the knot of clothes
Structure.Usually after the completion of Design modelling, structure design, also referred to as paper pattern design are just carried out.Pattern teacher is in skirt paper pattern design
A kind of more common method is prototyping, refers to and carries out the paper pattern design of other styles using a skirt prototype template, and draws
Produce required structure chart.
Generally before skirt paper pattern design, first skirt prototype is plotted on paper jam or duroplasts paper, then cuts out skirt prototype
A skirt prototype template is cut into, the paper pattern design of other styles is carried out using this skirt prototype template.By the restriction of material,
It will appear dog-ear, flash or local damage after Reusability with the skirt prototype template of cardboard, access times are limited；Separately
When outside, due to there is no profession to cut tool, pattern teacher paper jam or plastic paper production skirt prototype template, often go out when cutting
Existing some artificial errors, such as camber line cannot be accomplished very round and smooth, seriously affect the precision of skirt prototype template, lead to paper
There is precision reduction in design, drawing in sample teacher, then causes the reduction of finished product skirt quality.
Presence based on the above issues, especially for the new pattern teacher cultivated in factory, or trained in teaching
It is both time-consuming if it just must remake skirt prototype template at regular intervals for new life, and can not accomplish again each
Skirt prototype template possesses higher consistency, influences design efficiency, is unfavorable for the Fast Growth of pattern teacher and proposing for designed capacity
It is high.
Summary of the invention:
The present invention provides a kind of paper pattern design skirt prototype rulers and its method for designing and mapping, its structure is simple, operation side
Just, durable, only the step of making skirt prototype template is not omitted in designer, saves design time, also greatly improves
The precision of design, avoids the human error as caused by when cutting skirt prototype template, guarantees the round and smooth of camber line, can be straight
It connects for skirt paper pattern design, improves design efficiency, solve problems of the prior art.
Used technical solution is the present invention to solve above-mentioned technical problem:
A kind of paper pattern design skirt prototype ruler, ' four point are constituted including by D, C, ii, O rear ruler plate with by 4 points of A, B, i, O
The preceding ruler plate constituted, it is described after ruler plate by F, ii ' the rear hipline that constitutes of two o'clock is divided into rear ruler upper plate and rear ruler lower plate, rear
Hollow hole after being successively arranged one on the rear ruler plate of five points of y ', m ', x ', j ', u ' on hipline, province's point of rear two provincial highway of ruler plate
M °, J ° of two o'clock is corresponding is vertically set on rear hipline m ', above j ' two o'clock, the open setting in two provincial highway positions on rear ruler plate,
Waistline is made of three sections of circular arcs of DM ', MJ ', JI ' at the rear ruler plate top part afterwards, on the rear ruler upper plate of each provincial highway two sides
Several and its top arc rear hollow out curved channel disposed in parallel are respectively equipped with from top to bottom respectively, in rear ruler upper plate point
M’、M1、M2, M and point J ', J1、J2, be respectively equipped with one on the position J after connecting plate, where rear ruler upper plate corresponding points I ', O ', II °
One is equipped in latasuture provincial highway by point I1’、I2’、S1’、S2' constitute rear hollow out channel；The preceding ruler plate is by E, i ' two o'clock constitutes
Ruler upper plate and preceding ruler lower plate before front hip circumference line is divided into, on the preceding ruler plate of five points of t ', h ', r ', g ', q ' on front hip circumference line
H °, G ° two o'clock correspondence of province's point of hollow hole before being successively arranged one, preceding two provincial highway of ruler plate is vertically set on front hip circumference line h ', g ' two o'clock
Top, the open setting in two provincial highway positions on preceding ruler plate, preceding waistline by the preceding ruler plate top part DM ', MJ ', JI ' three
Section circular arc constitute, be respectively equipped with from top to bottom respectively on the preceding ruler upper plate of each provincial highway two sides several it is parallel with its top arc
The preceding hollow out curved channel being arranged, in preceding ruler upper plate point H ', H1、H2, H and point G ', G1、G2, be respectively equipped with one on the position G before connect
Fishplate bar is being equipped with one by point I in latasuture provincial highway where I, O, I ° of preceding ruler upper plate corresponding points1、I2、S1、S2The preceding hollow out constituted is logical
Road；Respectively corresponding line segment DD ', FC, ii ', be equipped with graduation mark on the rear ruler plate of the position ii, respectively correspond line segment AA ',
Graduation mark is equipped on the preceding ruler plate of EB, Bi, i i ' position.
Preferably, respectively correspond line segment yy ', mm ', xx ', jj ', the position uu ' rear ruler plate on be respectively equipped with mark line；
Respectively correspond line segment tt ', hh ', rr ', gg ', the position qq ' preceding ruler plate on be respectively equipped with mark line.
Preferably, after each connecting plate on preceding connecting plate respectively with it where provincial highway save point be uniformly provided with for the center of circle it is several
Bisector, it is that the center of circle is uniformly provided with several bisectors that the rear ruler upper plate on rear hollow out channel, which saves point with its latasuture provincial highway,
It is that the center of circle is uniformly provided with several bisectors that preceding ruler upper plate on preceding hollow out channel, which saves point with its latasuture provincial highway,.
Preferably, the rear ruler upper plate provincial highway saves M ° of cusp and is located at 5 to 6cm right above hipline.
Preferably, the preceding hollow out curved channel is 6, and rear hollow out curved channel is 5.
A kind of drawing application method of design York segmentation long-waisted dress, comprising:
Step 1): newly-designed waistline is 2cm lower than the waistline of skirt prototype, the long skirt length 2cm than skirt prototype of skirt, benefit
The rear centerline KC of skirt is directly drawn out on pattern with rear ruler plate1And II ° of ii of side seam line1, and rump is marked on pattern
Contour F, ii ' two o'clock and rear bottom cycloid C1、ii1Two o'clock；
Step 2): low waistline K after being drawn out on pattern using the rear hollow out curved channel on rear ruler plate1M1, draw out
York cut-off rule LL1、L2L3、L4L5, line segment M is drawn out using provincial highway on rear ruler plate1M°、L5S1'；
Step 3): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate, hipline Fii ', cycloid C in bottom after connection after being connected on pattern1ii1, even
Meet KK1, and by K1M1、LL1、L2L3、L4L5The line at both ends extends outward and the rear centerline nearest with it or provincial highway edge are smooth
Connection is complete, then by provincial highway save M ° of point, J °, II ° along respective provincial highway and K1M1、LL1、L2L3、L4L5The smooth connection of each extended line
Completely；
Step 4): using M ° of point on ruler plate rear in step 2) as the center of circle, M1M ° is radius, and ruler plate after rotation, makes counterclockwise
M on ruler plate afterwards2Point and the M marked on pattern1Point is overlapped, and line segment J is directly drawn on pattern with rear ruler plate1L3, utilize rear ruler
Rear hollow out curved channel on plate draws out rear low waistline M2J1, draw out York cut-off rule L2L3；
Step 5): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate, by M on pattern2J1Between rear low waistline and L2L3The line at both ends to
The smooth connection of outer extension and the provincial highway edge nearest with it is complete；
Step 6): using J ° of point on ruler plate rear in step 4) as the center of circle, J1J ° is radius, and ruler plate after rotation, makes counterclockwise
J on ruler plate afterwards2Point and the J marked on pattern1Point is overlapped, and line segment I is directly drawn on pattern with rear ruler plate1’L5, after utilization
Rear hollow out curved channel on ruler plate draws out rear low waistline J2I1', draw out York cut-off rule L4L5；
Step 7): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate, by J on pattern2I1' between rear low waistline and L4L5The line at both ends
Extend outward and the smooth connection in the provincial highway edge nearest with it is complete, completes the paper pattern design at the York segmentation long-waisted dress back side；
Step 8): the preceding center line ZB of skirt before directly being drawn out on pattern using the preceding ruler plate of skirt prototype ruler1And side
I ° of i of suture1, and front hip circumference line E, i ' two o'clock and preceding bottom cycloid B are marked on pattern1、i1Two o'clock；
Step 9): low waistline ZG is drawn out on pattern using the preceding hollow out curved channel on preceding ruler plate1, draw out about
Gram cut-off rule XX1、X2X3、X4X5, line segment G is drawn out using provincial highway on preceding ruler plate1G°、X5S22；
Step 10): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, front hip circumference line Ei ' is connected on pattern, connects preceding bottom cycloid B1i1, and
By Z1G1、XX1、X2X3、X4X5, both ends line extend outward and the preceding center line nearest with it or provincial highway edge is smooth has connected
It is whole, then by provincial highway save G ° of point, H °, I ° along respective provincial highway and Z1G1、XX1、X2X3、X4X5The smooth connection of each extended line it is complete；
Step 11): using G ° of point on ruler plate preceding in step 9) as the center of circle, G1G ° is radius, and ruler plate, makes before rotating clockwise
G on preceding ruler plate2Point and the G marked on pattern1Point is overlapped, and line segment H is directly drawn on pattern with preceding ruler plate1X3, utilize preceding ruler
Preceding hollow out curved channel on plate draws out preceding low waistline G2H1, draw out York cut-off rule X2X3；
Step 12): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, by G on pattern2H1Between preceding low waistline and X2X3The line at both ends
Extend outward and the smooth connection in the provincial highway edge nearest with it is complete；
Step 13): using H ° of point on ruler plate preceding in step 11) as the center of circle, H1H ° is radius, ruler plate before rotating clockwise,
H before making on ruler plate2Point and the H marked on pattern1Point is overlapped, and line segment I is directly drawn on pattern with preceding ruler plate1X5, before utilization
Preceding hollow out curved channel on ruler plate draws out preceding low waistline H2I1, draw out York cut-off rule X4X5；
Step 14): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, by H on pattern2I1Between rear low waistline and X4X5The line at both ends
Extend outward and the smooth connection in the provincial highway edge nearest with it is complete, completes York and divide the positive paper pattern design of long-waisted dress.
A kind of drawing application method of design wave plaited skirt, comprising:
Step 1): drawing out rear centerline DC, the rear waistline DM ' of skirt using ruler plate after skirt prototype ruler on pattern,
Bottom cycloid Cm afterwards, and M is drawn out using rear ruler plate provincial highway1M °, and with the rear hollow hole on rear ruler plate on pattern mark point
Point F after m ' and label on hipline；
Step 2): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate, F and m ' two o'clock are connected on pattern, draws out rear hipline Fm ', connected
M1And M ' two o'clock；
Step 3): using M ° of point on ruler plate rear in step 1) as the center of circle, ruler plate after rotation, makes the line on rear ruler plate counterclockwise
MM ° is overlapped with line M ' the M ° point marked on pattern, and M ° of m rotation of the line marked on pattern moves to M ° of m of line1, with rear ruler plate in pattern
On directly draw rear waistline M ' J ' and label after hipline m1J ' draws outlet J with the provincial highway on rear ruler plate1J °, and with rear ruler
Rear hollow hole on plate marks m on pattern1' and j ' two o'clock and mark point m1；
Step 4): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate, J °, j two o'clock on pattern, hipline m after connection are connected1' j ', and will
M’J’、J’J1°、m1M ° of each smooth connection of line is complete；
Step 5): using J ° of point on ruler plate rear in step 3) as the center of circle, ruler plate after rotation, makes the line on rear ruler plate counterclockwise
JJ ° is overlapped with line J ' the J ° point marked on pattern, and J ° of j rotation of the line marked on pattern moves to J ° of j of line1, with rear ruler plate in pattern
On directly draw rear waistline JI ', on rear ruler plate provincial highway draw outlet I1’S1', and with the rear hollow hole on rear ruler plate in paper
J is marked on sample1' and ii ' two o'clock and mark point j1；
Step 6): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate, J °, j on pattern are connected1Two o'clock, hipline j after connection1' and ii ' two
Point, and by J ' I1’、S1’II°、j1J °, the smooth connection of each line of II ° of ii it is complete, connect mm1、jj1Make Cii be configured to one it is smoother
Camber line；
Step 7): tie point I ', ii ', C ' draw out side seam line, connect each rear hipline between F and ii ' two o'clock, draw
Hipline auxiliary line Fii ' is produced, the paper pattern design at the wave plaited skirt back side is completed；
Step 8): drawing out preceding center line AB, the rear waistline AG ' of skirt using the preceding ruler plate of skirt prototype ruler on pattern,
Bottom cycloid Bt afterwards, and G is drawn out using preceding ruler plate provincial highway1G °, and with the preceding hollow hole on preceding ruler plate on pattern mark point
Point E after t ' and label on hipline；
Step 9): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, E and t ' two o'clock are connected on pattern, draws out rear hipline Et ', connected
G1And G ' two o'clock；
Step 10): using G ° of point on ruler plate preceding in step 8) as the center of circle, ruler plate before rotating clockwise, before making on ruler plate
GG ° of line is overlapped with line G ' the G ° point marked on pattern, and G ° of t rotation of the line marked on pattern moves to G ° of t of line1, with preceding ruler plate in paper
Waistline G ' H ' and label front hip circumference line m before directly being drawn on sample1J ' draws outlet H with the provincial highway on preceding ruler plate1H °, and before use
Preceding hollow hole on ruler plate marks t on pattern1' and h ' two o'clock and mark point t1；
Step 11): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, H °, h two o'clock on pattern, hipline t after connection are connected1' h ', and
By G ' H ', H ' H1°、t1G ° of each smooth connection of line is complete；
Step 12): using H ° of point on ruler plate preceding in step 10) as the center of circle, ruler plate before rotating clockwise, before making on ruler plate
HH ° of line is overlapped with line H ' the H ° point marked on pattern, and H ° of h rotation of the line marked on pattern moves to H ° of h of line1, with preceding ruler plate in paper
Waistline HO ' before directly drawing on sample draws outlet O with provincial highway on preceding ruler plate1’S1', and existed with the preceding hollow hole on preceding ruler plate
H is marked on pattern1' and i ' two o'clock and mark point h1；
Step 13): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, H °, h on pattern are connected1Two o'clock connects front hip circumference line h1' and i ' two
Point, and by O ' O1’、S1’I°、h1H °, the smooth connection of each line of I ° of i it is complete, connect tt1、hh1Bi is set to be configured to a smoother arc
Line；
Step 14): tie point O ', i ', i1Side seam line is drawn out, each rear hipline between E and i ' two o'clock is connected, draws
Hipline auxiliary line Ei ' out completes the positive paper pattern design of wave plaited skirt.
A kind of drawing application method designing culotte skirt, comprising:
Step 1): rear centerline DC, the rear waistline DM ' of skirt, rear bottom cycloid are drawn out on pattern using rear ruler plate
Cm, and M is drawn out using rear ruler plate provincial highway1M °, and using the rear hollow hole on rear ruler plate on pattern mark point m ' and
Point F after label on hipline connects F and m ' two o'clock on pattern, draws out rear hipline Fm ' using the straight flange of rear ruler plate,
Connect M1And M ' two o'clock, M ° of connection and m two o'clock；
Step 2): moving to right rear ruler plate along rear hipline Fii ' horizontal direction, until the m ' point on rear hipline is moved to m1' point
Position, the m point on rear bottom cycloid is moved to m1The position of point, provincial highway save M ° of cusp and are moved to M1° position, according to rear ruler plate
Rear waistline MJ ', rear bottom cycloid m are drawn out in current position1J draws out line segment M with the provincial highway of rear ruler plate2M1°、J1It J °, uses
The rear hollow hole of ruler plate marks m afterwards1' point and j ' point；
Step 3): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate, by MM2、J1J’、m1M1°、jJ°、m1The smooth connection of ' j ' each line is complete；
Step 4): continue ruler plate after level is moved to the right along step 2) MHL MIDDLE HIPS LINE Fii ', until the j ' point on rear hipline
It is moved to j1' point position, the j point on rear bottom cycloid is moved to j1The position of point, provincial highway save J ° of cusp and are moved to J1° position,
According to the current position of rear ruler plate, rear waistline JI ', rear hipline j are drawn out1Ii draws out line segment with the provincial highway of rear ruler plate
J2J1°、I1’S1', side seam line O ' ii is drawn out, marks j with the rear hollow hole of rear ruler plate1' point；
Step 5): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate, by JJ2、I’I1’、S1’Ⅱ°、J1°j1Each smooth connection of line is complete；
Step 6): continue ruler plate after level is moved to the right along hipline Fii ' rear in step 4), until the ii ' on rear hipline
Point is moved to ii1' point position, the ii point on rear bottom cycloid is moved to ii1It is drawn according to the current position of rear ruler plate the position of point
Produce side seam line O1’ii1, complete the paper pattern design at the culotte skirt back side；
Step 7): preceding center line AB, the preceding waistline AG ' of skirt, preceding bottom cycloid are drawn out on pattern using preceding ruler plate
Bt, and G is drawn out using preceding ruler plate provincial highway1G °, and using the preceding hollow hole on preceding ruler plate on pattern mark point t ' and
The point E on front hip circumference line is marked, using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, E and t ' two o'clock is connected on pattern, draws out front hip circumference line Et ',
Connect G1And G ' two o'clock, G ° of connection and t two o'clock；
Step 8): ruler plate before being moved to left along hipline Ei ' horizontal direction, until the t ' point on front hip circumference line is moved to t1' point
Position, the t point on preceding bottom cycloid are moved to t1The position of point, provincial highway save G ° of cusp and are moved to G1° position, work as according to preceding ruler plate
Preceding position, waistline GH ', preceding bottom cycloid t before drawing out1H draws out line segment G with the provincial highway of preceding ruler plate2G1°、H1H °, before
The rear hollow hole of ruler plate marks t1' point and h ' point；
Step 9): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, by GG2、H1H’、t1G1°、hH°、t1The smooth connection of ' h ' each line is complete；
Step 10): continue the preceding ruler plate of horizontal shifting to the left along front hip circumference line Ei ' in step 8), until the h ' on front hip circumference line
Point is moved to h1' point position, the h point on preceding bottom cycloid is moved to h1The position of point, provincial highway save H ° of cusp and are moved to H1° position
It sets, according to the current position of preceding ruler plate, waistline HO ', front hip circumference line h before drawing out1I ' draws outlet with the provincial highway of preceding ruler plate
Section H2H1°、O1’S1', draw out side seam line O11’i1', h is marked with the preceding hollow hole of preceding ruler plate1' point；
Step 11): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, by HH2、O’O1’、S1’I°、H1°h1Each smooth connection of line is complete；
Step 12): continue the preceding ruler plate of horizontal shifting to the left along front hip circumference line Ei ' in step 10), until the i ' on front hip circumference line
Point is moved to i1' point position, the i point on preceding bottom cycloid is moved to i1It is drawn according to the current position of preceding ruler plate the position of point
Side seam line O out11’ii1, complete the positive paper pattern design of culotte skirt.
The present invention using the above structure, has structure simple, easy to operate, durable, only designer is not omitted
The step of making skirt prototype template saves design time, also greatly increases the precision of design, avoid due to cutting
Human error caused by when skirt prototype template guarantees the round and smooth of camber line, can be directly used for skirt paper pattern design, improves design effect
Rate；Meanwhile the skirt prototype ruler of this programme offer can be used for the design of a variety of skirt types, have stronger versatility.
Detailed description of the invention:
Fig. 1 is the structural schematic diagram of ruler plate after the present invention.
Fig. 2 is the structural schematic diagram of ruler plate before the present invention.
Fig. 3 is the structural schematic diagram for designing York segmentation long-waisted dress rear skirt.
Fig. 4 is the structural schematic diagram after rotating in Fig. 3 after ruler plate.
Fig. 5 is the structural schematic diagram after rotating in Fig. 4 after ruler plate.
Fig. 6 is the York segmentation long-waisted dress rear skirt structural schematic diagram being plotted on pattern.
Fig. 7 is the structural schematic diagram for designing York segmentation long-waisted dress front skirt.
Fig. 8 is the structural schematic diagram before rotating in Fig. 7 after ruler plate.
Fig. 9 is the structural schematic diagram before rotating in Fig. 8 after ruler plate.
Figure 10 is the York segmentation long-waisted dress front skirt structural schematic diagram being plotted on pattern.
Figure 11 is the structural schematic diagram of design wave plaited skirt rear skirt.
Figure 12 is the structural schematic diagram after rotating in Figure 11 after ruler plate.
Figure 13 is the structural schematic diagram after rotating in Figure 12 after ruler plate.
Figure 14 is the wave plaited skirt rear skirt structural schematic diagram being plotted on pattern.
Figure 15 is the structural schematic diagram of design wave plaited skirt front skirt.
Figure 16 is the structural schematic diagram before rotating in Figure 15 after ruler plate.
Figure 17 is the structural schematic diagram before rotating in Figure 16 after ruler plate.
Figure 18 is the wave plaited skirt front skirt structural schematic diagram being plotted on pattern.
Figure 19 is the structural schematic diagram for designing culotte skirt rear skirt.
Figure 20 is to move to left the structural schematic diagram after rear ruler plate in Figure 19.
Figure 21 is to move to left the structural schematic diagram after rear ruler plate in Figure 20.
Figure 22 is the culotte skirt rear skirt structural schematic diagram being plotted on pattern.
Figure 23 is the structural schematic diagram for designing culotte skirt front skirt.
Figure 24 is the structural schematic diagram before moving to right in Figure 23 after ruler plate.
Figure 25 is the structural schematic diagram before moving to right in Figure 24 after ruler plate.
Figure 26 is the culotte skirt front skirt structural schematic diagram being plotted on pattern.
In figure, 1, rear ruler plate；2, preceding ruler plate；3, rear ruler upper plate；4, rear ruler lower plate；5, rear hollow hole；6, rear hollow out arc
Channel；7, rear connecting plate；8, rear hollow out channel；9, preceding ruler upper plate；10, preceding ruler lower plate；11, preceding hollow hole；12, preceding hollow out arc
Channel；13, preceding connecting plate；14, preceding hollow out channel.
Specific embodiment:
In order to clarify the technical characteristics of the invention, below by specific embodiment, and its attached drawing is combined, to this hair
It is bright to be described in detail.
As shown in Fig. 1-2 6, a kind of paper pattern design skirt prototype ruler, the rear ruler plate that ' four point are constituted including by D, C, ii, O
1 with the preceding ruler plate 2 that is constituted by 4 points of A, B, i, O, it is described after ruler plate 2 by F, ii ' the rear hipline that constitutes of two o'clock is divided into rear ruler
Upper plate 3 and rear ruler lower plate 4, are engraved after being successively arranged one on the rear ruler plate 1 of five points of y ', m ', x ', j ', u ' on rear hipline
Emptying aperture 5, M °, J ° two o'clock of province's point of 1 liang of provincial highway of rear ruler plate is corresponding to be vertically set on rear hipline m ', j ' two o'clock top, rear ruler plate 1
The open setting in upper two provincial highway position, rear waistline by 1 top part of ruler plate after described three sections of circular arc structures of DM ', MJ ', JI '
At, be respectively equipped with from top to bottom respectively on the rear ruler upper plate 3 of each provincial highway two sides several it is disposed in parallel with its top arc
Hollow out curved channel 6 afterwards, in rear 3 point M ' of ruler upper plate, M1、M2, M and point J ', J1、J2, be respectively equipped with one on the position J after connecting plate
7, one is being equipped with where rear 3 corresponding points I ' of ruler upper plate, O ', II ° in latasuture provincial highway by point I1’、I2’、S1’、S2' constitute after engrave
Empty channel 8；The preceding ruler plate 2 is by E, i ' the front hip circumference line that constitutes of two o'clock be divided into before ruler upper plate 9 and preceding ruler lower plate 10, in preceding stern
Hollow hole 11 before being successively arranged one on the preceding ruler plate 2 of five points of t ', h ', r ', g ', q ' on contour, the province of preceding 2 liang of provincial highways of ruler plate
Sharp H °, G ° of two o'clock is corresponding is vertically set on front hip circumference line h ', above g ' two o'clock, the opening of two provincial highway positions is set on preceding ruler plate 2
It sets, preceding waistline is made of three sections of circular arcs of DM ', MJ ', JI ' at preceding 2 top part of ruler plate, on the preceding ruler of each provincial highway two sides
Several and its top arc preceding hollow out curved channel 12 disposed in parallel are respectively equipped on plate 9 from top to bottom respectively, in preceding ruler
9 point H ' of upper plate, H1、H2, H and point G ', G1、G2, be respectively equipped with one on the position G before connecting plate 13, preceding 9 corresponding points I of ruler upper plate,
O, one is equipped with where I ° in latasuture provincial highway by point I1、I2、S1、S2The preceding hollow out channel 14 constituted；Respectively correspond line segment DD ',
FC, ii ', be equipped with graduation mark on the rear ruler plate 1 of the position ii, in the preceding ruler plate for respectively corresponding line segment AA ', EB, Bi, i i ' position
Graduation mark is equipped on 2.
Preferably, respectively correspond line segment yy ', mm ', xx ', jj ', the position uu ' rear ruler plate 1 on be respectively equipped with label
Line；Respectively correspond line segment tt ', hh ', rr ', gg ', the position qq ' preceding ruler plate 1 on be respectively equipped with mark line.
Preferably, after each connecting plate 7 on preceding connecting plate 13 respectively with it where provincial highway save and sharp be uniformly provided with for the center of circle
Several bisectors, it is that the center of circle is uniformly provided with several etc. that the rear ruler upper plate 3 on rear hollow out channel 8, which saves point with its latasuture provincial highway,
Separated time, it is that the center of circle is uniformly provided with several bisectors that the preceding ruler upper plate 9 on preceding hollow out channel 14, which saves point with its latasuture provincial highway,.
Preferably, rear 9 provincial highway of ruler upper plate saves M ° of cusp and is located at 5 to 6cm right above hipline.
Preferably, the preceding hollow out curved channel 6 is 6, and rear hollow out curved channel 12 is 5.
Embodiment 1:
A kind of drafting method using skirt prototype ruler design York segmentation long-waisted dress, comprising:
Step 1): newly-designed waistline is 2cm lower than the waistline of skirt prototype, the long skirt length 2cm than skirt prototype of skirt, benefit
The rear centerline KC of skirt is directly drawn out on pattern with rear ruler plate 11And II ° of ii of side seam line1, and after being marked on pattern
Hipline F, ii ' two o'clock and rear bottom cycloid C1、ii1Two o'clock；
Step 2): low waistline K after being drawn out on pattern using the rear hollow out curved channel 6 on rear ruler plate 11M1, draw
York cut-off rule LL out1、L2L3、L4L5, line segment M is drawn out using provincial highway on rear ruler plate 11M°、L5S1'；
Step 3): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate 1, hipline Fii ', cycloid C in bottom after connection after being connected on pattern1ii1, even
Meet KK1, and by K1M1、LL1、L2L3、L4L5The line at both ends extends outward and the rear centerline nearest with it or provincial highway edge are smooth
Connection is complete, then by provincial highway save M ° of point, J °, II ° along respective provincial highway and K1M1、LL1、L2L3、L4L5The smooth connection of each extended line
Completely；
Step 1) is as shown in Figure 3 to step 3).
Step 4): using M ° of point on ruler plate 1 rear in step 2) as the center of circle, M1M ° is radius, counterclockwise ruler plate 1 after rotation,
Make the M on rear ruler plate 12Point and the M marked on pattern1Point is overlapped, and line segment J is directly drawn on pattern with rear ruler plate 11L3, utilize
The rear hollow out curved channel 6 on ruler plate 1 draws out rear low waistline M afterwards2J1, draw out York cut-off rule L2L3；
Step 5): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate 1, by M on pattern2J1Between rear low waistline and L2L3The line at both ends
Extend outward and the smooth connection in the provincial highway edge nearest with it is complete；
Step 4) is as shown in Figure 4 to step 5).
Step 6): using J ° of point on ruler plate 1 rear in step 4) as the center of circle, J1J ° is radius, counterclockwise ruler plate 1 after rotation,
Make the J on rear ruler plate 12Point and the J marked on pattern1Point is overlapped, and line segment I is directly drawn on pattern with rear ruler plate 11’L5, benefit
Rear low waistline J is drawn out with the rear hollow out curved channel 6 on rear ruler plate 12I1', draw out York cut-off rule L4L5；
Step 7): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate 1, by J on pattern2I1' between rear low waistline and L4L5The line at both ends
Extend outward and the smooth connection in the provincial highway edge nearest with it is complete, completes the paper pattern design at the York segmentation long-waisted dress back side；
Step 6) is as shown in Figure 5 to step 7).
Step 8): the preceding center line ZB of skirt before directly being drawn out on pattern using the preceding ruler plate 2 of skirt prototype ruler1And side
I ° of i of suture1, and front hip circumference line E, i ' two o'clock and preceding bottom cycloid B are marked on pattern1、i1Two o'clock；
Step 9): low waistline ZG is drawn out on pattern using the preceding hollow out curved channel 12 on preceding ruler plate 21, draw
York cut-off rule XX out1、X2X3、X4X5, line segment G is drawn out using provincial highway on preceding ruler plate1G°、X5S22；
Step 10): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate 2, front hip circumference line Ei ' is connected on pattern, connects preceding bottom cycloid B1i1, with
And by Z1G1、XX1、X2X3、X4X5, both ends line extend outward and the preceding center line nearest with it or provincial highway edge is smooth has connected
It is whole, then by provincial highway save G ° of point, H °, I ° along respective provincial highway and Z1G1、XX1、X2X3、X4X5The smooth connection of each extended line it is complete；
Step 8) is as shown in Figure 7 to step 10).
Step 11): using G ° of point on ruler plate 2 preceding in step 9) as the center of circle, G1G ° is radius, ruler plate before rotating clockwise,
G before making on ruler plate 22Point and the G marked on pattern1Point is overlapped, and line segment H is directly drawn on pattern with preceding ruler plate 21X3, utilize
Preceding hollow out curved channel 12 on preceding ruler plate 2 draws out preceding low waistline G2H1, draw out York cut-off rule X2X3；
Step 12): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate 2, by G on pattern2H1Between preceding low waistline and X2X3The line at both ends
Extend outward and the smooth connection in the provincial highway edge nearest with it is complete；
Step 11) is as shown in Figure 8 to step 12).
Step 13): using H ° of point on ruler plate 2 preceding in step 11) as the center of circle, H1H ° is radius, ruler plate before rotating clockwise
2, the H before making on ruler plate 22Point and the H marked on pattern1Point is overlapped, and line segment I is directly drawn on pattern with preceding ruler plate 21X5, benefit
Low waistline H before being drawn out with the preceding hollow out curved channel 12 on preceding ruler plate2I1, draw out York cut-off rule X4X5；
Step 14): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate 2, by H on pattern2I1Between rear low waistline and X4X5The line at both ends
Extend outward and the smooth connection in the provincial highway edge nearest with it is complete, completes York and divide the positive paper pattern design of long-waisted dress.
Step 13) is as shown in Figure 9 to step 14).
Embodiment 2:
A kind of drawing application method using skirt prototype ruler design wave plaited skirt, comprising:
Step 1): drawing out rear centerline DC, the rear waistline DM ' of skirt using ruler plate 1 after skirt prototype ruler on pattern,
Bottom cycloid Cm afterwards, and M is drawn out using rear 1 provincial highway of ruler plate1M °, and marked on pattern with the rear hollow hole 5 on rear ruler plate 1
Point F after point m ' and label on hipline；
Step 2): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate 1, F and m ' two o'clock are connected on pattern, draws out rear hipline Fm ', connected
M1And M ' two o'clock；
Step 1) is as shown in figure 11 to step 2).
Step 3): using M ° of point on ruler plate 1 rear in step 1) as the center of circle, ruler plate 1 after rotation, makes on rear ruler plate 1 counterclockwise
MM ° of line be overlapped with line M ' the M ° point marked on pattern, the line marked on pattern M ° of m rotation moves to M ° of m of line1, existed with rear ruler plate 1
Hipline m after directly drawing rear waistline M ' J ' on pattern and marking1J ' draws outlet J with the provincial highway on rear ruler plate 11J °, and
M is marked on pattern with the rear hollow hole 5 on rear ruler plate 11' and j ' two o'clock and mark point m1；
Step 4): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate 1, J °, j two o'clock on pattern, hipline m after connection are connected1' j ', and
By M ' J ', J ' J1°、m1M ° of each smooth connection of line is complete；
Step 3) is as shown in figure 12 to step 4).
Step 5): using J ° of point on ruler plate 1 rear in step 3) as the center of circle, ruler plate 1 after rotation, makes on rear ruler plate 1 counterclockwise
JJ ° of line be overlapped with line J ' the J ° point marked on pattern, the line marked on pattern J ° of j rotation moves to J ° of j of line1, existed with rear ruler plate 1
Rear waistline JI ' is directly drawn on pattern, draws outlet I with provincial highway on rear ruler plate 11’S1', and with the rear hollow hole on rear ruler plate
5 mark j on pattern1' and ii ' two o'clock and mark point j1；
Step 6): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate 1, J °, j on pattern are connected1Two o'clock, hipline j after connection1' and ii ' two
Point, and by J ' I1’、S1’II°、j1J °, the smooth connection of each line of II ° of ii it is complete, connect mm1、jj1Make Cii be configured to one it is smoother
Camber line；
Step 5) is as shown in figure 13 to step 6).
Step 7): tie point I ', ii ', C ' draw out side seam line, connect each rear hipline between F and ii ' two o'clock, draw
Hipline auxiliary line Fii ' is produced, the paper pattern design at the wave plaited skirt back side is completed；
Step 7) is as shown in figure 14.
Step 8): drawing out preceding center line AB, the rear waistline AG ' of skirt using the preceding ruler plate 2 of skirt prototype ruler on pattern,
Bottom cycloid Bt afterwards, and G is drawn out using preceding ruler plate provincial highway1G °, and marked on pattern with the preceding hollow hole 11 on preceding ruler plate 2
Point E after point t ' and label on hipline；
Step 9): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate 2, E and t ' two o'clock are connected on pattern, draws out rear hipline Et ', connected
G1And G ' two o'clock；
Step 8) is as shown in figure 15 to step 9).
Step 10): using G ° of point on ruler plate 2 preceding in step 8) as the center of circle, ruler plate 2 before rotating clockwise, before making on ruler plate 2
GG ° of line be overlapped with line G ' the G ° point marked on pattern, the line marked on pattern G ° of t rotation moves to G ° of t of line1, existed with preceding ruler plate 2
Waistline G ' H ' and label front hip circumference line m before directly being drawn on pattern1J ' draws outlet H with the provincial highway on preceding ruler plate 21H °, and
T is marked on pattern with the preceding hollow hole 11 on preceding ruler plate 21' and h ' two o'clock and mark point t1；
Step 11): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate 2, H °, h two o'clock on pattern, hipline t after connection are connected1' h ', and
By G ' H ', H ' H1°、t1G ° of each smooth connection of line is complete；
Step 10) is as shown in figure 16 to step 11).
Step 12): using H ° of point on ruler plate 2 preceding in step 10) as the center of circle, ruler plate 2 before rotating clockwise, ruler plate 2 before making
On HH ° of line be overlapped with line H ' the H ° point marked on pattern, the line marked on pattern H ° of h rotation moves to H ° of h of line1, with preceding ruler plate 2
Waistline HO ' before directly drawing on pattern draws outlet O with provincial highway on preceding ruler plate 21’S1', and engraved with before on preceding ruler plate 2
Emptying aperture 11 marks h on pattern1' and i ' two o'clock and mark point h1；
Step 13): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate 2, H °, h on pattern are connected1Two o'clock connects front hip circumference line h1' and i ' two
Point, and by O ' O1’、S1’I°、h1H °, the smooth connection of each line of I ° of i it is complete, connect tt1、hh1Bi is set to be configured to a smoother arc
Line；
Step 12) is as shown in figure 17 to step 13).
Step 14): tie point O ', i ', i1Side seam line is drawn out, each rear hipline between E and i ' two o'clock is connected, draws
Hipline auxiliary line Ei ' out completes the positive paper pattern design of wave plaited skirt.
Step 14) is as shown in figure 18.
Embodiment 3:
A kind of drawing application method using skirt prototype ruler design culotte skirt, comprising:
Step 1): rear centerline DC, the rear waistline DM ' of skirt, rear bottom cycloid are drawn out on pattern using rear ruler plate 1
Cm, and M is drawn out using rear 1 provincial highway of ruler plate1M °, and using the rear hollow hole 5 on rear ruler plate 1 on pattern mark point m ' with
And the point F after label on hipline connects F and m ' two o'clock on pattern, draws out rear hipline using the straight flange of rear ruler plate 1
Fm ' connects M1And M ' two o'clock, M ° of connection and m two o'clock；
Step 1) is as shown in figure 19.
Step 2): moving to right rear ruler plate 1 along rear hipline Fii ' horizontal direction, until the m ' point on rear hipline is moved to m1’
The position of point, the m point on rear bottom cycloid are moved to m1The position of point, provincial highway save M ° of cusp and are moved to M1° position, according to rear ruler
Rear waistline MJ ', rear bottom cycloid m are drawn out in the current position of plate 11J draws out line segment M with the provincial highway of rear ruler plate 12M1°、
J1J °, m is marked with the rear hollow hole of rear ruler plate 11' point and j ' point；
Step 3): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate 1, by MM2、J1J’、m1M1°、jJ°、m1The smooth connection of ' j ' each line is complete；
Step 2) is as shown in figure 20 to step 3).
Step 4): continue ruler plate 1 after level is moved to the right along step 2) MHL MIDDLE HIPS LINE Fii ', until the j ' point on rear hipline
It is moved to j1' point position, the j point on rear bottom cycloid is moved to j1The position of point, provincial highway save J ° of cusp and are moved to J1° position,
According to the current position of rear ruler plate 1, rear waistline JI ', rear hipline j are drawn out1Ii draws outlet with the provincial highway of rear ruler plate 1
Section J2J1°、I1’S1', side seam line O ' ii is drawn out, marks j with the rear hollow hole of rear ruler plate1' point；
Step 5): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate 1, by JJ2、I’I1’、S1’Ⅱ°、J1°j1Each smooth connection of line is complete；
Step 4) is as shown in figure 21 to step 5).
Step 6): continue ruler plate 1 after level is moved to the right along hipline Fii ' rear in step 4), until on rear hipline
Ii ' point is moved to ii1' point position, the ii point on rear bottom cycloid is moved to ii1The position of point, according to the current position of rear ruler plate 1
It sets, draws out side seam line O1’ii1, complete the paper pattern design at the culotte skirt back side；
Step 6) is as shown in figure 22.
Step 7): preceding center line AB, the preceding waistline AG ' of skirt, preceding bottom cycloid are drawn out on pattern using preceding ruler plate 2
Bt, and G is drawn out using preceding 2 provincial highway of ruler plate1G °, and using the preceding hollow hole on preceding ruler plate 2 on pattern mark point t ' with
And the point E on label front hip circumference line connects E and t ' two o'clock on pattern, draws out front hip circumference line using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate 2
Et ' connects G1And G ' two o'clock, G ° of connection and t two o'clock；
Step 7) is as shown in figure 23.
Step 8): ruler plate 2 before being moved to left along hipline Ei ' horizontal direction, until the t ' point on front hip circumference line is moved to t1' point
Position, the t point on preceding bottom cycloid are moved to t1The position of point, provincial highway save G ° of cusp and are moved to G1° position, work as according to preceding ruler plate 2
Preceding position, waistline GH ', preceding bottom cycloid t before drawing out1H draws out line segment G with the provincial highway of preceding ruler plate 22G1°、H1It H °, uses
The rear hollow hole 11 of preceding ruler plate 2 marks t1' point and h ' point；
Step 9): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate 2, by GG2、H1H’、t1G1°、hH°、t1The smooth connection of ' h ' each line is complete；
Step 8) is as shown in figure 24 to step 9).
Step 10): continue the preceding ruler plate 2 of horizontal shifting to the left along front hip circumference line Ei ' in step 8), until the h ' on front hip circumference line
Point is moved to h1' point position, the h point on preceding bottom cycloid is moved to h1The position of point, provincial highway save H ° of cusp and are moved to H1° position
It sets, according to the current position of preceding ruler plate 2, waistline HO ', front hip circumference line h before drawing out1I ' is drawn out with the provincial highway of preceding ruler plate 2
Line segment H2H1°、O1’S1', draw out side seam line O11’i1', h is marked with the preceding hollow hole of preceding ruler plate 21' point；
Step 11): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate 2, by HH2、O’O1’、S1’I°、H1°h1Each smooth connection of line is complete；
Step 10) is as shown in figure 25 to step 11).
Step 12): continue the preceding ruler plate 2 of horizontal shifting to the left along front hip circumference line Ei ' in step 10), until on front hip circumference line
I ' point is moved to i1' point position, the i point on preceding bottom cycloid is moved to i1It is drawn according to the current position of preceding ruler plate 2 position of point
Produce side seam line O11’ii1, complete the positive paper pattern design of culotte skirt.
Step 12) is as shown in figure 26.
Based on skirt prototype is all in accordance with the Japanese cultural type skirt prototype of revision in 1999, as basic drawing drawing side
Method.The step of operation of the present invention is convenient, durable, and only production skirt prototype template is not omitted in designer, when saving design
Between, the precision of design is also greatly increased, the human error as caused by when cutting skirt prototype template is avoided, is guaranteed
Camber line it is round and smooth, can be directly used for skirt paper pattern design, improve design efficiency, solve problems of the prior art.
Above-mentioned specific embodiment cannot function as limiting the scope of the invention, for the technology people of the art
For member, any alternate modification or transformation made to embodiment of the present invention are fallen within the scope of protection of the present invention.
Place is not described in detail by the present invention, is the well-known technique of those skilled in the art of the present technique.
Claims (8)
1. a kind of paper pattern design skirt prototype ruler, it is characterised in that: ' four point are constituted including by D, C, ii, O rear ruler plate with by A,
B, the preceding ruler plate of 4 points of i, O compositions, it is described after ruler plate by F, ii ' the rear hipline that constitutes of two o'clock is divided into rear ruler upper plate and rear ruler
Lower plate, hollow hole after being successively arranged one on the rear ruler plate of five points of y ', m ', x ', j ', u ' on rear hipline, rear ruler plate two
M °, J ° two o'clock of province's point of provincial highway is corresponding to be vertically set on rear hipline m ', j ' two o'clock top, two provincial highway positions on rear ruler plate
Open setting, rear waistline is made of three sections of circular arcs of DM ', MJ ', JI ' at the rear ruler plate top part, behind each provincial highway two sides
Several and its top arc rear hollow out curved channel disposed in parallel are respectively equipped on ruler upper plate from top to bottom respectively, in rear ruler
Upper plate point M ', M1、M2, M and point J ', J1、J2, be respectively equipped with one on the position J after connecting plate, rear ruler upper plate corresponding points I ', O ',
One is equipped with where II ° in latasuture provincial highway by point I1’、I2’、S1’、S2' constitute rear hollow out channel；The preceding ruler plate ' two by E, i
The front hip circumference line that point is constituted is divided into preceding ruler upper plate and preceding ruler lower plate, five points of t ', h ', r ', g ', q ' on front hip circumference line
H °, G ° two o'clock correspondence of province's point of hollow hole before being successively arranged one on preceding ruler plate, preceding two provincial highway of ruler plate is vertically set on front hip circumference line
Above h ', g ' two o'clock, the open setting in two provincial highway positions on preceding ruler plate, preceding waistline by the preceding ruler plate top part DM ',
Three sections of MJ ', JI ' circular arcs are constituted, and are respectively equipped with several from top to bottom respectively on the preceding ruler upper plate of each provincial highway two sides and are pushed up with it
Portion's circular arc preceding hollow out curved channel disposed in parallel, in preceding ruler upper plate point H ', H1、H2, H and point G ', G1、G2, on the position G respectively
Equipped with connecting plate before one, one is being equipped with where I, O, I ° of preceding ruler upper plate corresponding points in latasuture provincial highways by point I1、I2、S1、S2It constitutes
Preceding hollow out channel；Respectively corresponding line segment DD ', FC, ii ', be equipped with graduation mark on the rear ruler plate of the position ii, respectively corresponding line
Graduation mark is equipped on the preceding ruler plate of section AA ', EB, Bi, ii ' position.
2. skirt prototype ruler according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: respectively correspond line segment yy ', mm ', xx ', jj ',
Mark line is respectively equipped on the rear ruler plate of the position uu '；Respectively correspond line segment tt ', hh ', rr ', gg ', the position qq ' preceding ruler plate
On be respectively equipped with mark line.
3. skirt prototype ruler according to claim 2, it is characterised in that: respectively with it on each rear connecting plate and preceding connecting plate
It is that the center of circle is uniformly provided with several bisectors that place provincial highway, which saves point, and the rear ruler upper plate on rear hollow out channel is with its latasuture provincial highway province
Point is that the center of circle is uniformly provided with several bisectors, and it is that the center of circle is equal that the preceding ruler upper plate on preceding hollow out channel, which saves point with its latasuture provincial highway,
It is even to be equipped with several bisectors.
4. skirt prototype ruler according to claim 3, it is characterised in that: ruler upper plate provincial highway saves M ° of cusp positioned at hip circumference after described
5 to 6cm right above line.
5. skirt prototype ruler according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the preceding hollow out curved channel is 6, rear hollow out arc
Shape channel is 5.
6. a kind of drawing application method using the ruler of skirt prototype described in claim 1 design York segmentation long-waisted dress, feature
It is, comprising:
Step 1): newly-designed waistline is 2cm lower than the waistline of skirt prototype, the long skirt length 2cm than skirt prototype of skirt, after utilization
Ruler plate directly draws out the rear centerline KC of skirt on pattern1And II ° of ii of side seam line1, and hipline after being marked on pattern
F, ii ' two o'clock and rear bottom cycloid C1、ii1Two o'clock；
Step 2): low waistline K after being drawn out on pattern using the rear hollow out curved channel on rear ruler plate1M1, draw out York
Cut-off rule LL1、L2L3、L4L5, line segment M is drawn out using provincial highway on rear ruler plate1M°、L5 S1'；
Step 3): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate, hipline Fii ', cycloid C in bottom after connection after being connected on pattern1ii1, connection
KK1, and by K1M1、LL1、L2L3、L4L5The line at both ends extends outward and the smooth company of the rear centerline nearest with it or provincial highway edge
Connect it is complete, then by provincial highway save M ° of point, J °, II ° along respective provincial highway and K1M1、LL1、L2L3、L4L5Each extended line smooth connected
It is whole；
Step 4): using M ° of point on ruler plate rear in step 2) as the center of circle, M1M ° is radius, and ruler plate after rotation, makes rear ruler plate counterclockwise
On M2Point and the M marked on pattern1Point is overlapped, and line segment J is directly drawn on pattern with rear ruler plate1L3, using on rear ruler plate
Hollow out curved channel draws out rear low waistline M afterwards2J1, draw out York cut-off rule L2L3；
Step 5): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate, by M on pattern2J1Between rear low waistline and L2L3The line at both ends is to extension
The smooth connection in long and nearest with it provincial highway edge is complete；
Step 6): using J ° of point on ruler plate rear in step 4) as the center of circle, J1J ° is radius, and ruler plate after rotation, makes rear ruler plate counterclockwise
On J2Point and the J marked on pattern1Point is overlapped, and line segment I is directly drawn on pattern with rear ruler plate1’L5, using on rear ruler plate
Rear hollow out curved channel draw out rear low waistline J2I1', draw out York cut-off rule L4L5；
Step 7): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate, by J on pattern2I1' between rear low waistline and L4L5The line at both ends is to extension
The smooth connection in long and nearest with it provincial highway edge is complete, completes the paper pattern design at the York segmentation long-waisted dress back side；
Step 8): the preceding center line ZB of skirt before directly being drawn out on pattern using the preceding ruler plate of skirt prototype ruler1And I ° of side seam line
i1, and front hip circumference line E, i ' two o'clock and preceding bottom cycloid B are marked on pattern1、i1Two o'clock；
Step 9): low waistline ZG is drawn out on pattern using the preceding hollow out curved channel on preceding ruler plate1, draw out York point
Secant XX1、X2X3、X4X5, line segment G is drawn out using provincial highway on preceding ruler plate1G°、X5S22；
Step 10): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, front hip circumference line Ei ' is connected on pattern, connects preceding bottom cycloid B1i1, and will
Z1G1、XX1、X2X3、X4X5, both ends line extend outward and complete with the smooth connection of its nearest preceding center line or provincial highway edge,
Again by provincial highway save G ° of point, H °, I ° along respective provincial highway and Z1G1、XX1、X2X3、X4X5The smooth connection of each extended line it is complete；
Step 11): using G ° of point on ruler plate preceding in step 9) as the center of circle, G1G ° is radius, and ruler plate, makes preceding ruler before rotating clockwise
G on plate2Point and the G marked on pattern1Point is overlapped, and line segment H is directly drawn on pattern with preceding ruler plate1X3, using on preceding ruler plate
Preceding hollow out curved channel draw out before low waistline G2H1, draw out York cut-off rule X2X3；
Step 12): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, by G on pattern2H1Between preceding low waistline and X2X3The line at both ends is to extension
The smooth connection in long and nearest with it provincial highway edge is complete；
Step 13): using H ° of point on ruler plate preceding in step 11) as the center of circle, H1H ° is radius, and ruler plate, makes preceding ruler before rotating clockwise
H on plate2Point and the H marked on pattern1Point is overlapped, and line segment I is directly drawn on pattern with preceding ruler plate1X5, using on preceding ruler plate
Preceding hollow out curved channel draw out before low waistline H2I1, draw out York cut-off rule X4X5；
Step 14): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, by H on pattern2I1Between rear low waistline and X4X5The line at both ends is to extension
The smooth connection in long and nearest with it provincial highway edge is complete, completes York and divides the positive paper pattern design of long-waisted dress.
7. a kind of drawing application method using the ruler design wave plaited skirt of skirt prototype described in claim 1, which is characterized in that packet
It includes:
Step 1): rear centerline DC, the rear waistline DM ' of skirt, rear bottom are drawn out on pattern using ruler plate after skirt prototype ruler
Cycloid Cm, and M is drawn out using rear ruler plate provincial highway1M °, and with the rear hollow hole on rear ruler plate on pattern mark point m ' with
And the point F after label on hipline；
Step 2): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate, F and m ' two o'clock are connected on pattern, draws out rear hipline Fm ', connects M1And M '
Two o'clock；
Step 3): using M ° of point on ruler plate rear in step 1) as the center of circle, ruler plate after rotation, makes MM ° of line on rear ruler plate counterclockwise
It is overlapped with line M ' the M ° point marked on pattern, M ° of m rotation of the line marked on pattern moves to M ° of m of line1, straight on pattern with rear ruler plate
Meet hipline m after drawing rear waistline M ' J ' and label1J ' draws outlet J with the provincial highway on rear ruler plate1J °, and on rear ruler plate
Rear hollow hole m is marked on pattern1' and j ' two o'clock and mark point m1；
Step 4): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate, J °, j two o'clock on pattern, hipline m after connection are connected1' j ', and by M ' J ',
J’J1°、m1M ° of each smooth connection of line is complete；
Step 5): using J ° of point on ruler plate rear in step 3) as the center of circle, ruler plate after rotation, makes JJ ° of line on rear ruler plate counterclockwise
It is overlapped with line J ' the J ° point marked on pattern, J ° of j rotation of the line marked on pattern moves to J ° of j of line1, straight on pattern with rear ruler plate
It connects and draws rear waistline JI ', draw outlet I with provincial highway on rear ruler plate1’S1', and with the rear hollow hole on rear ruler plate on pattern
Mark j1' and ii ' two o'clock and mark point j1；
Step 6): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate, J °, j on pattern are connected1Two o'clock, hipline j after connection1' and ii ' two o'clock, with
And by J ' I1’、S1’II°、j1J °, the smooth connection of each line of II ° of ii it is complete, connect mm1、jj1Cii is set to be configured to a smoother camber line；
Step 7): tie point I ', ii ', C ' draw out side seam line, connect each rear hipline between F and ii ' two o'clock, draw out
Hipline auxiliary line Fii ' completes the paper pattern design at the wave plaited skirt back side；
Step 8): preceding center line AB, the rear waistline AG ' of skirt, rear bottom are drawn out on pattern using the preceding ruler plate of skirt prototype ruler
Cycloid Bt, and G is drawn out using preceding ruler plate provincial highway1G °, and with the preceding hollow hole on preceding ruler plate on pattern mark point t ' with
And the point E after label on hipline；
Step 9): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, E and t ' two o'clock are connected on pattern, draws out rear hipline Et ', connects G1And G '
Two o'clock；
Step 10): using G ° of point on ruler plate preceding in step 8) as the center of circle, ruler plate before rotating clockwise, GG ° of line before making on ruler plate
It is overlapped with line G ' the G ° point marked on pattern, G ° of t rotation of the line marked on pattern moves to G ° of t of line1, straight on pattern with preceding ruler plate
Meet waistline G ' H ' and label front hip circumference line m before drawing1J ' draws outlet H with the provincial highway on preceding ruler plate1H °, and on preceding ruler plate
Preceding hollow hole t is marked on pattern1' and h ' two o'clock and mark point t1；
Step 11): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, H °, h two o'clock on pattern, hipline t after connection are connected1' h ', and by G '
H’、H’H1°、t1G ° of each smooth connection of line is complete；
Step 12): using H ° of point on ruler plate preceding in step 10) as the center of circle, ruler plate before rotating clockwise, the line before making on ruler plate
HH ° is overlapped with line H ' the H ° point marked on pattern, and H ° of h rotation of the line marked on pattern moves to H ° of h of line1, with preceding ruler plate in pattern
On directly draw before waistline HO ', draw outlet O with provincial highway on preceding ruler plate1’S1', and with the preceding hollow hole on preceding ruler plate in paper
H is marked on sample1' and i ' two o'clock and mark point h1；
Step 13): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, H °, h on pattern are connected1Two o'clock connects front hip circumference line h1' and i ' two o'clock, with
And by O ' O1’、S1’I°、h1H °, the smooth connection of each line of I ° of i it is complete, connect tt1、hh1Bi is set to be configured to a smoother camber line；
Step 14): tie point O ', i ', i1Side seam line is drawn out, each rear hipline between E and i ' two o'clock is connected, draws out stern
Contour auxiliary line Ei ' completes the positive paper pattern design of wave plaited skirt.
8. a kind of drawing application method using the ruler of skirt prototype described in claim 1 design culotte skirt, which is characterized in that packet
It includes:
Step 1): drawing out rear centerline DC, the rear waistline DM ' of skirt using rear ruler plate on pattern, rear bottom cycloid Cm, with
And M is drawn out using rear ruler plate provincial highway1M °, and using the rear hollow hole on rear ruler plate on pattern after mark point m ' and label
Point F on hipline connects F and m ' two o'clock using the straight flange of rear ruler plate on pattern, draws out rear hipline Fm ', connects M1
And M ' two o'clock, M ° of connection and m two o'clock；
Step 2): moving to right rear ruler plate along rear hipline Fii ' horizontal direction, until the m ' point on rear hipline is moved to m1' point position
It sets, the m point on rear bottom cycloid is moved to m1The position of point, provincial highway save M ° of cusp and are moved to M1° position, it is current according to rear ruler plate
Position, draw out rear waistline MJ ', rear bottom cycloid m1J draws out line segment M with the provincial highway of rear ruler plate2M1°、J1J °, with rear ruler
The rear hollow hole of plate marks m1' point and j ' point；
Step 3): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate, by MM2、J1J’、m1M1°、jJ°、m1The smooth connection of ' j ' each line is complete；
Step 4): continuing to the right ruler plate after level is moved along step 2) MHL MIDDLE HIPS LINE Fii ', until the j ' on rear hipline puts movement
To j1' point position, the j point on rear bottom cycloid is moved to j1The position of point, provincial highway save J ° of cusp and are moved to J1° position, according to
Rear waistline JI ', rear hipline j are drawn out in the current position of ruler plate afterwards1Ii draws out line segment J with the provincial highway of rear ruler plate2J1°、
I1’S1', side seam line O ' ii is drawn out, marks j with the rear hollow hole of rear ruler plate1' point；
Step 5): using the straight flange of rear ruler plate, by JJ2、I’I1’、S1’Ⅱ°、J1°j1Each smooth connection of line is complete；
Step 6): continue ruler plate after level is moved to the right along hipline Fii ' rear in step 4), until the ii ' on rear hipline puts and moves
Move ii1' point position, the ii point on rear bottom cycloid is moved to ii1It is drawn out according to the current position of rear ruler plate the position of point
Side seam line O1’ii1, complete the paper pattern design at the culotte skirt back side；
Step 7): drawing out preceding center line AB, the preceding waistline AG ' of skirt using preceding ruler plate on pattern, preceding bottom cycloid Bt, with
And G is drawn out using preceding ruler plate provincial highway1G °, and using the preceding hollow hole on preceding ruler plate on pattern before mark point t ' and label
Point E on hipline connects E and t ' two o'clock using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate on pattern, draws out front hip circumference line Et ', connects G1
And G ' two o'clock, G ° of connection and t two o'clock；
Step 8): ruler plate before being moved to left along hipline Ei ' horizontal direction, until the t ' point on front hip circumference line is moved to t1' point position,
T point on preceding bottom cycloid is moved to t1The position of point, provincial highway save G ° of cusp and are moved to G1° position, according to the current position of preceding ruler plate
It sets, waistline GH ', preceding bottom cycloid t before drawing out1H draws out line segment G with the provincial highway of preceding ruler plate2G1°、H1H °, with preceding ruler plate
Hollow hole marks t afterwards1' point and h ' point；
Step 9): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, by GG2、H1H’、t1G1°、hH°、t1The smooth connection of ' h ' each line is complete；
Step 10): continue the preceding ruler plate of horizontal shifting to the left along front hip circumference line Ei ' in step 8), until the h ' on front hip circumference line puts and moves
Move h1' point position, the h point on preceding bottom cycloid is moved to h1The position of point, provincial highway save H ° of cusp and are moved to H1° position, press
According to the current position of preceding ruler plate, waistline HO ', front hip circumference line h before drawing out1I ' draws out line segment with the provincial highway of preceding ruler plate
H2H1°、O1’S1', draw out side seam line O11’i1', h is marked with the preceding hollow hole of preceding ruler plate1' point；
Step 11): using the straight flange of preceding ruler plate, by HH2、O’O1’、S1’I°、H1°h1Each smooth connection of line is complete；
Step 12): continue the preceding ruler plate of horizontal shifting to the left along front hip circumference line Ei ' in step 10), until the i ' on front hip circumference line puts and moves
Move i1' point position, the i point on preceding bottom cycloid is moved to i1Side is drawn out according to the current position of preceding ruler plate in the position of point
Suture O11’ii1, complete the positive paper pattern design of culotte skirt.
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| CN201910658803.9A CN110226792B (en) | 2019-07-22 | 2019-07-22 | Skirt prototype ruler for pattern design and drawing use method thereof |
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| CN201910658803.9A CN110226792B (en) | 2019-07-22 | 2019-07-22 | Skirt prototype ruler for pattern design and drawing use method thereof |
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN114259100A (en) * | 2022-01-07 | 2022-04-01 | 湖南工程学院 | Trousers pattern ruler set |
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| JPS522649A (en) * | 1975-06-24 | 1977-01-10 | Ando Kou | Method for cutting rady*s dress |
| JPS5365145A (en) * | 1976-11-19 | 1978-06-10 | Werber Fred Willi K R | Designal auxiliary aid |
| US4205446A (en) * | 1978-06-08 | 1980-06-03 | Gibson Donald A | Dress pattern |
| CN1067798A (en) * | 1991-07-22 | 1993-01-13 | 王志国 | Direct cutting transformation method and special ruler thereof |
| CN101278765A (en) * | 2007-08-09 | 2008-10-08 | 丁锡强 | Clothing bias cutting method |
| CN107713139A (en) * | 2017-09-27 | 2018-02-23 | 武汉纺织大学 | A kind of drafting method of long-waisted dress basic model |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS522649A (en) * | 1975-06-24 | 1977-01-10 | Ando Kou | Method for cutting rady*s dress |
| JPS5365145A (en) * | 1976-11-19 | 1978-06-10 | Werber Fred Willi K R | Designal auxiliary aid |
| US4205446A (en) * | 1978-06-08 | 1980-06-03 | Gibson Donald A | Dress pattern |
| CN1067798A (en) * | 1991-07-22 | 1993-01-13 | 王志国 | Direct cutting transformation method and special ruler thereof |
| CN101278765A (en) * | 2007-08-09 | 2008-10-08 | 丁锡强 | Clothing bias cutting method |
| CN107713139A (en) * | 2017-09-27 | 2018-02-23 | 武汉纺织大学 | A kind of drafting method of long-waisted dress basic model |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN114259100A (en) * | 2022-01-07 | 2022-04-01 | 湖南工程学院 | Trousers pattern ruler set |
| CN114259100B (en) * | 2022-01-07 | 2023-10-27 | 湖南工程学院 | Trousers edition type ruler set |
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| CN110226792B (en) | 2021-04-13 |
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Application publication date: 20190913 Assignee: Xinji Tianju garment factory Assignor: SHANDONG University OF ART & DESIGN Contract record no.: X2021370000039 Denomination of invention: A skirt prototype ruler for pattern design and its drawing application method Granted publication date: 20210413 License type: Common License Record date: 20211220 |