CN1703988B - Paper folding costume fent method - Google Patents

Paper folding costume fent method Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1703988B
CN1703988B CN 200410024640 CN200410024640A CN1703988B CN 1703988 B CN1703988 B CN 1703988B CN 200410024640 CN200410024640 CN 200410024640 CN 200410024640 A CN200410024640 A CN 200410024640A CN 1703988 B CN1703988 B CN 1703988B
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line
paper
sleeve
draw
centimetre
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CN1703988A (en
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江继明
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江继明
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Abstract

The invention relates to a clothing paper-folded dubbing method. It uses paper-folded method to fold the track of chest breadth, bust breadth and collar at the base of the measured chest around, and then proportionally posits it on dubbing paper according to the said basic size. The depth of arm hole and shoulder slope of the clothing uses paper-folded triangle method to do dead reckoning, it then dose line paper-cutting to obtain the dubbing paper of clothing.

Description

The clothing paper folding method of drawing a design
Technical field
The present invention relates to the technical field of drawing a design in a kind of clothes cutting.
Background technology
Originally it is very loaded down with trivial details, complicated to draw a design, calculate with ratio formula process at each position, add a certain parameter as drawing a design size as the chest measurement dead size, neck encloses, muffs, shoulder slope be again with the dead size ratio calculating of the chest measurement size of drawing a design, so very complicated very, be inconvenient to remember, also be inconvenient to use, particularly a school is released a cover experience computing formula, and the separate equations establishes one's own system, and is ununified, be unfavorable for educating and in actual production, using, also limited them and applied separately.There are a lot of designers to release the new method of cutting out of drawing a design for this reason, as number of patent application is the coat template making process of 01111553.X, it is characterized in that clothing type figure rear panel, anter, the sleeve sheet all is present in the same coordinate grid degree, X equals 1/16 of ready-made clothes chest measurement with the grid length of side, the rear panel practice of clothing type figure is, with orthogonal two straight lines is ground line, from the back ordinate left 4X be the latasuture line, the downward 0.4X of back horizontal line is the dark line of back neck, postmedial line 1.2X left is the wide line of back neck, postmedial line 10X/3 left is half shoulder breadth line, the downward 2X/3 of back upper horizontal line is the back porch oblique line, the back porch end points is X/3 across back line to the right, the downward 10X/3 of back porch end points is a BL BUST LINE, the downward 2.6X of back BL BUST LINE is the waist nodel line, connect then along back neck camber line and armhole curve, finish clothing type rear panel figure, the practice of clothing type figure anter is, it is antemedial line that the back BL BUST LINE is prolonged 4X left, the BL BUST LINE 3X that makes progress is the crop oblique line, crop oblique line up 2X/3 is preceding upper horizontal line, preceding upper horizontal line down 1.2X is the FRONT NECK DROP line, the antemedial line 1.2X that turns right is the wide line of preceding neck, the preceding downward 3X of BL BUST LINE saves horizontal line for the Attacking Midfielder, on this line, get from preceding center line 1.5X place and waist side point line and save oblique line for the Attacking Midfielder, the foreneck root point intersection point line that casts aside 0.2X place and BL BUST LINE and preceding center line of turning right is left-falling stroke chest line, connect then along preceding neck camber line and preceding armhole curve, finish clothing type anter figure, the sleeve sheet is the vertically long 5X that is, its half sleeve mountain height is 2X, foresleeve is wide to be 3X, the wide 10X/3 of back sleeve, connect foresleeve mountain oblique line and sleeve mountain, back oblique line then, connect respectively at last along the front and back cap arc line and be clothing type sleeve sheet figure, its shortcoming is that the empirical rule according to the cutter marks BL BUST LINE respectively on the coordinate ruled paper, the neck triangle, the muffs line, shoulder slope line or the like, so method is simple and efficient inadequately, still need and to calculate or to remember a large amount of adjusting parameters, being not easy to memory uses, the coordinate grid is special employing plurality of specifications grid, need oneself to draw or customization, further cause the inconvenience in the use, need to do further to improve.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention is to be to provide a kind of clothing paper folding method of drawing a design, and it is simple and efficient, and is easy to use, distributes the correct science in location, and the clothes that cutting obtains are next to the shin, and are comfortable and easy to wear.
The present invention solves the problems of the technologies described above the technical scheme that is adopted: a kind of clothing paper folding method of drawing a design, it is characterized in that on proof paper by paper folding trace method, according to the chest measurement of having measured is benchmark, the size that obtains according to the cutting empirical rule on paper is come the paper folding trace, by the paper trace that folds the basic size of chest breadth, across back, open-neck collar is proportionally located in the proof paper previous step, dark and the shoulder slope of the muffs of clothes carries out reckoning positioning with the paper folding triangular methods on proof paper, the paper-cut of ruling has then obtained the pattern of drawing a design of clothes.
Useful is, above-mentioned paper folding trace method is on width is 1/2 proof paper of clothing product bust size paper to be converted into 8 equal portions as the location benchmark, though can adopt other equal portions to carry out paper folding, but, application in practice shows that 8 equal portions are the most rational, the paper folding number of times is few, the most approaching natural human body of each anchor point of template.
What be highly profitable is that the steps in sequence that above-mentioned its clothes prototype of paper folding trace method is drawn a design comprises:
(1) selects paper paper folding; Select width be the clothing product bust size 1/2, length is the long paper of preceding corselet, then paper is converted into 8 equal portions;
(2) the folding muffs is dark; According to width 1/2, paper top is converted into two right angles, position, two right angles is opened shakeout then, draw parallel BL BUST LINE;
(3) folding neck triangle; Equal portions+1 centimetre is got as the length of side 45 ° of right angles of folding downwards in the upper right corner more than BL BUST LINE, and the bottom at this right angle upwards folds 22.5 ° of angles then, the angular position is opened shakeout then, neck camber line before drawing along 22.5 ° of broken lines; Equal portions+0.5~1.5 centimetre is got as the length of side 2~3 centimetres of foldings downwards in the upper left corner more than BL BUST LINE, draws back neck camber line then;
(4) folding shoulder slope; Cut off to BL BUST LINE in paper 1/2 centre position, then before and after garment piece respectively to both sides foldings 45, roll over 1/2 of 45 again, open and shakeout, shoulder slope and back shoulder slope before constituting;
(5) chest province amount, front mid-arnhole and across back are handled; BL BUST LINE upwards 2~3 centimeters draw chest province amount, the size of front mid-arnhole, across back is to do a little according to equal portions+0.6~0.8 line, back porch goes out 2~3 centimetres to the right, crop goes out 1.5~2.5 centimetres left.
What be highly profitable is, above-mentioned its sleeve of paper folding trace method steps in sequence of drawing a design comprises:
(1) wide, the length of biceps general election 6 equal portions is the long paper of sleeve, and doubling 1/2 is the summit with the upper left corner, and big according to muffs then AH/2+0.5~1 centimetre length is drawn oblique line;
(2) paper is shakeout, with the sleeve center line is the boundary, be divided into left sleeve piece and right sleeve sheet, draw S type camber line at right sleeve sheet along oblique line, the camber line height is 1.5~2.5 centimetres, 1~2 centimetre on camber line front end decentre line, draw another camber line at left sleeve piece along oblique line accordingly, the camber line height is 1~2 centimetre, draws S type cuff camber line in the bottom, and the camber line height is 0.5~1.5 centimetre;
(3) last paper-cut has obtained the pattern of drawing a design of sleeve.
What be highly profitable is, above-mentioned its sleeve of paper folding trace method step of drawing a design also comprises successively:
(1) wide, the length of biceps general election 6 equal portions is the long paper of sleeve, and doubling 1/2 is the summit with the upper left corner;
(2) big according to muffs then AH/2+0.5~1 centimetre length is drawn oblique line, draws sleeve end parallel lines simultaneously, and the left side distance between sleeve bottom line parallel lines and the left comer is divided into three equal parts, moves 3.5~4.5 centimetres on the sleeve bottom line parallel lines on the right and makes some A;
(3) be the boundary with sleeve center line 1/2, on the left side is got 1/3 equal portions, then, draws sleeve mountain, back line between sleeve center line and the left 1/3 equal portions place, on the right, draws foresleeve mountain line between sleeve center line and the some A, and the camber line of stroke tucking inside the sleeve between the foresleeve mountain line and the left side comes the angle of five equilibrium between them;
(4) on the line of sleeve mountain, back, draw the back cap arc line respectively, its radian is high 1~2 centimetre, cap arc line before on the line of foresleeve mountain, drawing, its radian is high 2~3 centimetres, advance 0.6~0.8 centimetre from the left end of back cap arc line, draw back sleeve suture, draw sleeve end camber line between the upper end of back sleeve suture and the right-hand member of preceding cap arc line, advance 2~4 centimetres on the right and draw the foresleeve suture;
(5) draw the cuff line in the bottom, draw sleeve rib line then, draw outer sleeve suture and lining sleeve suture between on the left side and the back sleeve suture, draw the sleeve suture respectively, make little sleeve sheet with some shadow device then along the foresleeve suture;
(6) open bilayer at last, cut out the sleeve pattern along line.
Having illustrated that above-mentioned paper folding is drawn a design also can use on the sleeve cutting efficiently and easily.
And for concrete clothes, the cutting size can be carried out concrete necessary the adjustment, make the clothes of its cutting more next to the shin or keep its clothes characteristic, need select the long paper of clothing when it selects paper paper folding for women cheongsam for use as above-mentioned paper folding trace method, upper length is the long and long sum of hip circumference for the Attacking Midfielder saves, back shoulder slope is upwards put 0.6~0.8 centimetre, and front cut pieces and rear garment piece are drawn outline line near the paper centre, and puts 1~2 centimetre of seam in advance; The sleeve garment piece is being drawn the cuff camber line near cuff place 0.5~1 centimeters, and both sides are the oblique line suture, are equipped with collar.And upwards put 0.5~0.9 centimetre on original basis for the back shoulder slope of its rear garment piece of children's garment, chest province amount changes bellied amount into, and in decentre line C grade is divided, back waist dart and front waist dart are arranged, and its province's amount is respectively 0.3~0.8 centimetre, and preceding collar is led oblique line before changing open-neck collar into.Preceding shoulder slope and back shoulder slope for its front and back garment piece of Western-style clothes are put 0.4~0.6 centimetre of radian height respectively up or down, save chest province amount, row-barge head line between one equal portions, 1/3 place, front cut pieces top and the chest measurement parallel lines end.
Very perfectly be, above-mentioned paper can be paper virtual on the computer, realize paper folding, line, cutting process by software program, make enterprise realize the process of drawing a design easily according to rule of the present invention, obtain effects such as quick, convenient, that cutting is scientific and reasonable by the drawing software of computer.
Compared with prior art, the invention has the advantages that: adopt the paper folding method, on paper with chest breadth, across back, the basic size of open-neck collar is a step location proportionally, dark and the shoulder slope folding triangle reckoning of the muffs of clothes, science, convenient, correctly, fast, it is slow to break the computational speed of drawing a design originally, loaded down with trivial details, unscientific shortcoming has obtained simple and efficient, easy to use, distribute the correct science advantage in location, and paper can adopt general blank sheet of paper or brown paper, draws materials extensively, use cost is cheap, also be easy to realize virtual paper folding process, be adapted at using on the actual industrial, especially for garment education by the software program of computer, understand that once saying one say will.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 paper folding one of step schematic diagram (clothes prototype) in the method for drawing a design;
Draw a design two (clothes prototypes) of a step schematic diagram in the method for Fig. 2 paper folding;
Draw a design three (clothes prototypes) of a step schematic diagram in the method for Fig. 3 paper folding;
Draw a design four (clothes prototypes) of a step schematic diagram in the method for Fig. 4 paper folding;
Draw a design five (clothes prototypes) of a step schematic diagram in the method for Fig. 5 paper folding;
Draw a design six (clothes prototypes) of a step schematic diagram in the method for Fig. 6 paper folding;
Draw a design seven (clothes prototypes) of a step schematic diagram in the method for Fig. 7 paper folding;
Draw a design eight (clothes prototypes) of a step schematic diagram in the method for Fig. 8 paper folding;
Draw a design nine (single sleeves) of a step schematic diagram in the method for Fig. 9 paper folding;
Draw a design ten (single sleeves) of a step schematic diagram in the method for Figure 10 paper folding;
Draw a design 11 (single sleeves) of a step schematic diagram in the method for Figure 11 paper folding;
Draw a design 12 (single sleeves) of a step schematic diagram in the method for Figure 12 paper folding;
Draw a design 13 (two sleeves) of a step schematic diagram in the method for Figure 13 paper folding;
Draw a design 14 (two sleeves) of a step schematic diagram in the method for Figure 14 paper folding;
Draw a design 15 (two sleeves) of a step schematic diagram in the method for Figure 15 paper folding;
Draw a design 16 (two sleeves) of a step schematic diagram in the method for Figure 16 paper folding;
Draw a design 17 (two sleeves) of a step schematic diagram in the method for Figure 17 paper folding;
Figure 18 paper folding cheongsam cutting schematic diagram (garment piece part) in the method for drawing a design;
Figure 19 paper folding cheongsam cutting schematic diagram (sleeve part) in the method for drawing a design;
Figure 20 paper folding cheongsam cutting schematic diagram (collar part) in the method for drawing a design;
Figure 21 paper folding children's garment cutting schematic diagram (garment piece part) in the method for drawing a design;
Figure 22 paper folding cheongsam cutting schematic diagram (sleeve part) in the method for drawing a design;
Figure 23 paper folding western-style clothes cutting schematic diagram (garment piece part) in the method for drawing a design;
Figure 24 paper folding in men's style neck prototype cutting schematic diagram (garment piece part) that closes in the method for drawing a design;
Clothes lines title schematic diagram (front and back garment piece) in Figure 25 cutting;
Clothes lines title schematic diagram (sleeve) in Figure 26 cutting.
The specific embodiment
Embodiment describes in further detail the present invention below in conjunction with accompanying drawing.
Before entering the examples of implementation description, the clothes lines title schematic diagram of relevant cutting is seen Figure 25,26 respectively, everybody is had a bit the technical term that may run in drawing a design understand.
The draw a design steps in sequence of the relevant clothes prototype of method of meaning as shown in the figure, clothing paper folding of the present invention is:
(1) selects paper paper folding; Select a blank sheet of paper, brown paper preferably, size will be fit to, preferably according to the size of surveying measured human dimension such as chest measurement in advance, with brown paper be cut into width be the clothing product bust size 1/2, length is that preceding corselet is long, then brown paper is converted into 8 equal portions, sees that Fig. 1 illustrates;
(2) the folding muffs is dark; Brown paper is launched to shakeout,, paper top is converted into two right angles, see that Fig. 2 illustrates, position, two right angles is opened shakeout then, draw parallel BL BUST LINE along two tops of knuckle again, see that Fig. 3 illustrates again according to width 1/2;
(3) folding neck triangle; Equal portions+1 centimetre is got as the length of side 45 ° of right angles of folding downwards in the upper right corner of brown paper more than BL BUST LINE, the bottom at this right angle upwards folds 22.5 ° of angles then, sees that Fig. 4 illustrates, the angular position is opened shakeout then, draw preceding neck camber line along 22.5 ° of broken lines, see that Fig. 5 illustrates; Equal portions+1 centimetre is got as the length of side 2.3 centimetres of foldings downwards in the upper left corner more than BL BUST LINE, draws back neck camber line then, sees that Fig. 5 illustrates;
(4) folding shoulder slope; Cut off to BL BUST LINE with scissors in brown paper 1/2 centre position, then before and after garment piece respectively to both sides foldings 45, roll over 1/2 of 45 again, see that Fig. 6 illustrates, brown paper is opened shakeout again, shoulder slope and back shoulder slope before constituting;
(5) chest province amount, front mid-arnhole and across back are handled; With brown paper BL BUST LINE upwards 3 centimeters draw chest province amount, front mid-arnhole is to do a little according to equal portions+0.7 a centimetre line, on equal portions line basis, be offset 0.7 centimetre to the right exactly, draw the muffs line, and protruding to the right 2 centimetres of shoulder breadth before making, the size of across back also is to do a little according to equal portions+0.7 a centimetre line simultaneously, is offset 0.7 centimetre to the right exactly on equal portions line basis, protruding 2.5 centimetres of back shoulder breadth left; See that Fig. 7 illustrates, can also draw shoulder province amount.
With brown paper paper-cut to the layout line, obtained the pattern of drawing a design of clothes clothes prototype at last, referring to Fig. 8, for the human body of special stature, the cutting master worker can rule of thumb do and adjust design a little, makes clothes do more next to the shinly certainly.
The draw a design steps in sequence of the relevant sleeve of method of clothing paper folding of the present invention is:
(1) selects a brown paper, be cut into that 6 equal portions are wide does that biceps is big, length is that sleeve is long, then to folding up, see Fig. 9-10 signal, with the upper left corner is the summit, and big according to muffs then AH/2+0.5~1 centimetre length is made arc as radius, intersects as another point with one side of paper folding opening, draw oblique line then, see that Figure 10 illustrates;
(2) brown paper is shakeout, with the sleeve center line is the boundary, be divided into left sleeve piece and right sleeve sheet, draw S type camber line at right sleeve sheet along oblique line, the camber line height is 2 centimetres, 1.5 centimetres on camber line front end decentre line, also draw another camber line along oblique line at left sleeve piece then, the camber line height is 1.5 centimetres, draws S type cuff camber line from the bottom of brown paper 1 centimeters at last, the camber line height is 1 centimetre, sees that Figure 11 illustrates;
(3) last paper-cut has obtained the pattern of drawing a design of sleeve, sees that Figure 12 illustrates.
Certainly for the human body of special stature, the cutting master worker can rule of thumb do and adjust design a little, makes sleeve do more next to the shinly.
The draw a design step of the relevant sleeve of method of clothing paper folding of the present invention can also be followed successively by:
(1) selects a brown paper, be cut into that 6 equal portions are wide does that biceps is big, length is that sleeve is long,, see that Figure 13 illustrates then to folding up;
(2) with the upper left corner be the summit, big according to muffs then AH/2+0.5~1 centimetre length is made arc as radius, intersect as another point with one side of paper folding opening, two dot-dash oblique lines, draw sleeve bottom line parallel lines simultaneously, the left side between sleeve bottom line parallel lines and left comer distance is divided into three equal parts equably, moves 4 centimetres on the sleeve bottom line parallel lines on the right and make some A, see that Figure 14 illustrates;
(3) be that the boundary on top does a little with sleeve center line 1/2, on the left side is got 1/3 equal portions and is done a little, then, draw sleeve mountain, back line between the point of sleeve center line and the left 1/3 equal portions place's point, on the right, draw foresleeve mountain line between sleeve centerline and the some A, angular bisector such as draw between the foresleeve mountain line and the left side, see that Figure 15 illustrates as tucking inside the sleeve camber line;
(4) draw the back cap arc line on the line of sleeve mountain, back, its radian is high 1.5 centimetres, i.e. label camber line 1., cap arc line before on the line of foresleeve mountain, drawing, its radian is high 2.3 centimetres, i.e. label camber line 2., advance 0.7 centimetre from the left end of back cap arc line, draw back sleeve suture, promptly label camber line is 4. drawn sleeve end camber line between the upper end of back sleeve suture and the right-hand member of preceding cap arc line, it is label camber line 3., also advance 3 centimetres on the right and draw the foresleeve sutures, i.e. label straight line 5. is referring to illustrated in Figure 16;
(5) draw the cuff line in the bottom, draw sleeve rib line then, draw outer sleeve suture and lining sleeve suture between on the left side and the back sleeve suture, draw the sleeve suture respectively along the foresleeve suture, make their distances between sleeve rib line remain on 2 centimetres, make little sleeve sheet with some shadow device then, as schematically shown in Figure 17;
(6) open bilayer at last, cut out the sleeve pattern along line.
Certainly for the human body of special stature, the cutting master worker can rule of thumb do and adjust design a little, makes sleeve do more next to the shinly.
The present invention not merely can adopt brown paper, can also utilize the picture design function of computer, utilize drawing software, according to paper folding principle of the present invention and design rule, realize paper folding, line, cutting process by computer software programs, thereby realize industrial production requirement.
At several clothes commonly used, the present invention in conjunction with above-mentioned clothing paper folding method for several cuttings example of drawing a design, the clothes of following example for as if basic stature, each cutting master worker can also do a little according to actual conditions and adjust, it is more next to the shin that its cutting is got.
As women cheongsam, specifically draw a design figure referring to Figure 18,19,20, when selecting paper paper folding, it need select the long brown paper of clothing for use, upper length is the long and long sum of hip circumference for the Attacking Midfielder saves, front cut pieces and rear garment piece are drawn outline line near the paper centre, and put 1.5 centimetres of seams in advance, back porch is put 0.7 centimetre obliquely; Chest province amount is 2.5 centimetres; It is 3 centimetres that waist on the waist rib line is economized; And draw end suture in the bottom of garment piece; The sleeve garment piece is being drawn the cuff camber line near cuff place 1 centimeters, both sides are the oblique line suture, be equipped with collar, other paper folding process is decided the basic size of chest breadth, across back, open-neck collar, the paper folding triangle decide shoulder slope, muffs dark etc. with the clothes prototype be similar, wherein the oblique line length of sleeve is controlled at AH/2+0.7 centimetre, and other guide has just no longer in depth been described here.
As children's garment, specifically draw a design figure referring to Figure 21,22, the back shoulder slope of its rear garment piece is upwards put 0.7 centimetre on original basis, chest province amount changes bellied amount into, and in decentre line C grade is divided, back waist dart and front waist dart are arranged, its province's amount is respectively 0.5 centimetre, preceding neck oblique line is the design of open-neck collar formula, and be equipped with sleeve, the oblique line length of sleeve is controlled at the AH/2+1 centimeter length, other paper folding process is decided the basic size of chest breadth, across back, open-neck collar, the paper folding triangle decide shoulder slope, muffs dark etc. with the clothes prototype be similarly, just no longer in depth described here.
As Western-style clothes, specifically draw a design figure referring to Figure 23, preceding shoulder slope of garment piece and back shoulder slope are put 0.5 centimetre of radian height respectively up or down before and after it, save chest province amount, row-barge head line between front cut pieces top and the chest measurement parallel lines end is equipped with sleeve, and other paper folding process is decided the basic size of chest breadth, across back, open-neck collar, the paper folding triangle decide shoulder slope, muffs dark etc. with the clothes prototype be similarly, just no longer in depth described here.
As the man style shirt of marching, the figure that specifically draws a design sees Figure 24, thereafter shoulder slope is upwards put 0.7 centimetre, before the neck camber line do to close the neck design, save chest province amount, split door and replace and do at front cut pieces, be equipped with sleeve, other paper folding process is decided the basic size of chest breadth, across back, open-neck collar, the paper folding triangle decide shoulder slope, muffs dark etc. with the clothes prototype be similarly, just no longer in depth described here.
The example that the present invention is only just best has been done full and accurate explanation; can not be interpreted as restriction to the claim protection domain; the every replacement in the technological means of making new improvement on this basis or being equal to all is within the protection domain of request of the present invention; rule by pen and ruler as paper folding trace method and to replace paper folding trace process; paper is divided into the basic size that 8 equal portions are decided chest breadth, across back, open-neck collar; dark and the shoulder slope of the muffs of clothes carries out reckoning positioning with a stroke triangular methods on proof paper; its principle is similar substantially, also is that the inventor asks for protection scope.

Claims (5)

1. clothing paper folding method of drawing a design, according to the cutting empirical rule, it is characterized in that on proof paper by paper folding trace method, according to the chest measurement of having measured is benchmark, the size that obtains according to described cutting empirical rule on paper is come the paper folding trace, it is to be 1/2 of clothing product bust size at width, length is that the long proof paper of preceding corselet is converted into 8 equal portions as the location benchmark, by the paper trace that folds with chest breadth, across back, the basic size of open-neck collar is proportionally located in the proof paper previous step, dark and the shoulder slope of the muffs of clothes carries out reckoning positioning with the paper folding triangular methods on proof paper, the paper-cut of ruling has then obtained the pattern of drawing a design of clothes;
Concrete steps include:
The clothes prototype steps in sequence of drawing a design comprises:
(1) selects paper paper folding; Select width be the clothing product bust size 1/2, length is the long paper of preceding corselet, then paper is converted into 8 equal portions;
(2) the folding muffs is dark; According to width 1/2, paper top is converted into two right angles, position, two right angles is opened shakeout then, draw parallel BL BUST LINE;
(3) folding neck triangle; Equal portions+1 centimetre is got as the length of side 45 ° of right angles of folding downwards in the upper right corner more than BL BUST LINE, and the bottom at this right angle upwards folds 22.5 ° of angles then, the angular position is opened shakeout then, neck camber line before drawing along 22.5 ° of broken lines; Equal portions+0.5~1.5 centimetre is got as the length of side 2~3 centimetres of foldings downwards in the upper left corner more than BL BUST LINE, draws back neck camber line then;
(4) folding shoulder slope; Cut off to BL BUST LINE in paper 1/2 centre position, then before and after garment piece respectively to both sides foldings 45, roll over 1/2 of 45 again, open and shakeout, shoulder slope and back shoulder slope before constituting;
(5) chest province amount, front mid-arnhole and across back are handled; BL BUST LINE upwards 2~3 centimeters draw chest province amount, the size of front mid-arnhole, across back is to do a little according to equal portions+0.6~0.8 a centimetre line, back porch goes out 2~3 centimetres to the right, crop goes out 1.5~2.5 centimetres left;
The sleeve steps in sequence of drawing a design comprises:
(1) wide, the length of biceps general election 6 equal portions is the long paper of sleeve, and doubling 1/2 is the summit with the upper left corner, and big according to muffs then AH/2+0.5~1 centimetre length is drawn oblique line;
(2) paper is shakeout, with the sleeve center line is the boundary, be divided into left sleeve piece and right sleeve sheet, draw S type camber line at right sleeve sheet along oblique line, the camber line height is 1.5~2.5 centimetres, 1~2 centimetre on camber line front end decentre line, draw another camber line at left sleeve piece along oblique line accordingly, the camber line height is 1~2 centimetre, draws S type cuff camber line in the bottom, and the camber line height is 0.5~1.5 centimetre;
(3) last paper-cut has obtained the pattern of drawing a design of sleeve;
Or,
The sleeve steps in sequence of drawing a design comprises:
(1) wide, the length of biceps general election 6 equal portions is the long paper of sleeve, and doubling 1/2 is the summit with the upper left corner;
(2) big according to muffs then AH/2+0.5~1 centimetre length is drawn oblique line, draws sleeve end parallel lines simultaneously, and the left side distance between sleeve bottom line parallel lines and the left comer is divided into three equal parts, moves 3.5~4.5 centimetres on the sleeve bottom line parallel lines on the right and makes some A;
(3) be the boundary with sleeve center line 1/2, on the left side is got 1/3 equal portions, then, draws sleeve mountain, back line between sleeve center line and the left 1/3 equal portions place, on the right, draws foresleeve mountain line between sleeve center line and the some A, and the camber line of stroke tucking inside the sleeve between the foresleeve mountain line and the left side comes the angle of five equilibrium between them;
(4) on the line of sleeve mountain, back, draw the back cap arc line respectively, its radian is high 1~2 centimetre, cap arc line before on the line of foresleeve mountain, drawing, its radian is high 2~3 centimetres, advance 0.6~0.8 centimetre from the left end of back cap arc line, draw back sleeve suture, draw sleeve end camber line between the upper end of back sleeve suture and the right-hand member of preceding cap arc line, advance 2~4 centimetres on the right and draw the foresleeve suture;
(5) draw the cuff line in the bottom, draw sleeve rib line then, draw outer sleeve suture and lining sleeve suture between on the left side and the back sleeve suture, draw the sleeve suture respectively, make little sleeve sheet with some shadow device then along the foresleeve suture;
(6) open bilayer at last, cut out the sleeve pattern along line;
At last, described paper is paper virtual on the computer, realizes paper folding, line, cutting process by software program.
2. clothing paper folding proofing method according to claim 1, it is characterized in that the paper paper folding of paper described paper folding trace method need select for use clothing to grow when it selects to(for) women cheongsam, upper length is the long and long sum of hip circumference for the Attacking Midfielder saves, back shoulder slope is upwards put 0.6~0.8 centimetre, front cut pieces and rear garment piece are drawn outline line near the paper centre, and put 1~2 centimetre of seam in advance; The sleeve garment piece is being drawn the cuff camber line near cuff place 0.5~1 centimeters, and both sides are the oblique line sewing thread, are equipped with collar.
3. clothing paper folding proofing method according to claim 1, it is characterized in that described paper folding trace method upwards puts 0.5~0.9 centimetre for the back shoulder slope of its rear garment piece of children's garment on original basis, chest province amount changes bellied amount into, and in decentre line C grade is divided, back waist dart and front waist dart are arranged, its province's amount is respectively 0.3~0.8 centimetre, and preceding collar is led oblique line before changing open-neck collar into.
4. clothing paper folding proofing method according to claim 1, it is characterized in that described paper folding trace method puts 0.4~0.6 centimetre of radian height respectively up or down for the preceding shoulder slope and the back shoulder slope of Western-style clothes garment piece before and after it, save chest province amount, row-barge head line between equal portions 1/3 place on front cut pieces top and the chest measurement parallel lines end.
5. clothing paper folding proofing method according to claim 1, it is characterized in that described paper folding trace method is rule by pen and ruler replaces the paper trace, paper is divided into the basic size that equal portions are decided chest breadth, across back, open-neck collar, and the dark and shoulder slope of the muffs of clothes carries out reckoning positioning with a stroke triangular methods on proof paper.
CN 200410024640 2004-05-25 2004-05-25 Paper folding costume fent method Expired - Fee Related CN1703988B (en)

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CN105029810B (en) * 2015-07-14 2017-11-14 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 A kind of method for platemaking of western-style clothes collar
CN105876958A (en) * 2016-04-27 2016-08-24 广州城建职业学院 Pattern making method for asymmetric corselet
CN105852296A (en) * 2016-04-27 2016-08-17 广州城建职业学院 Pattern making method for lace-up one-piece swimwear
CN108618245B (en) * 2017-03-18 2020-04-07 桐乡市志强皮毛染色厂 Positioning, scribing and typesetting method
CN107028257A (en) * 2017-03-31 2017-08-11 南通诺驰服装有限公司 Bubble sleeve SEAM CONSTRUCTION system and preparation method thereof
CN107080300A (en) * 2017-06-12 2017-08-22 苏州凤霓绣叶文化艺术有限公司 A kind of cheongsam preparation method for saving dress material
CN109619737B (en) * 2018-12-19 2021-04-09 西京学院 Drawing and cutting method for standing collar of clothes

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CN1312040A (en) * 2001-03-16 2001-09-12 王益正 Coat template making process
CN2484767Y (en) * 2001-03-23 2002-04-10 李建华 Cutting template of dress
CN1421169A (en) * 2001-11-27 2003-06-04 葛俊康 Girth size distributing method for coat cutting normally separated into six cut pieces

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