CN1225807A - Positioning reference cutting-out method - Google Patents
Positioning reference cutting-out method Download PDFInfo
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- CN1225807A CN1225807A CN 98100414 CN98100414A CN1225807A CN 1225807 A CN1225807 A CN 1225807A CN 98100414 CN98100414 CN 98100414 CN 98100414 A CN98100414 A CN 98100414A CN 1225807 A CN1225807 A CN 1225807A
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Abstract
The positioning basic-type clothing cutting-out method, specially suitable for cutting special-body dress, is mainly characterized by adopting figure-noted positioning process to draw the shoulder slope lines, chest width lines and back width lines of the front and back patterns by using shoulder width as basis. Said cutting-out method possesses the following advantages: it is easy to master, simple and quick for drawing, the chest width and back width of finished product dress are meet for actual chest width and back width, and said finished product dress is comfortable for wearing.
Description
The present invention relates to a kind of positioning reference cutting-out method, belong to a kind of basic method of cutting out of upper garment.
In the existing cutting drawing, the data of the chest breadth line and the front and back shoulder gradient are all calculated with formula and are determined that for example: in D formula cutting-out method, chest breadth line formula is 0.12D (D=half chest measurement+increment number), and across back line formula is 0.1D; The shoulder gradient of front cut pieces is 0.1D, 0.2D, is begun to do a little on chest breadth line and shoulder breadth line by the dark line of muffs, and this point to last surplus of preceding upper horizontal line is the data of the anter shoulder gradient; Rear garment piece shoulder gradient formula is 0.15D, 0.2D, the same anter of method.In the Japanese Culture formula prototype cutting method, the chest breadth line formula of prototype is 1/6 chest measurement+3cm, and across back line formula is 1/6 chest measurement+4.5cm, and the shoulder gradient is to utilize wide 2/3 the determining of back neck.In the ratio cutting-out method, chest breadth line formula is 1.5/10 chest measurement+3.5cm, and across back line formula is 1.5/10 chest measurement+4cm, and shoulder gradient formula is 1/20 chest measurement.Chest breadth line, across back line in the above-mentioned cutting-out method drawing, the gradient on sheet shoulder slope, front and back, all calculate with formula, not only calculate trouble, drawing is slow, and irregular variation also can take place in the front and back muffs camber line that is produced based on chest breadth line and across back line and the angle of shoulder breadth line, is prone to chest breadth and across back and actual incompatible behind the clothing product.The calculating of above-mentioned drafting method chest breadth and across back is that basic calculation draws with the chest measurement, be difficult to the angle between definite chest breadth and across back and the shoulder breadth line, especially the clothing drafting of special type and special style, also to rely on personal experience's processing or twice drawing just can reach requirement in the prior art, the beginner is difficult to grasp.
The objective of the invention is to overcome the weak point in the background technology and a kind of computing that do not need is provided, quick, easily of drawing, made clothing product chest breadth and across back and the actual positioning reference cutting-out method that conforms to.
The object of the present invention is achieved like this: it is to improve on the basis of existing method of cutting out drawing, it comprises drawing, press the figure cutting, main feature is that the drafting of preceding shoulder width line is that level is drawn the crop position line after upwards measuring 27cm by antemedial line along preceding upper horizontal line, do crop slope anchor point along the crop position line to side's amount 6-7cm fixed point by preceding upper horizontal line, the intersection point line of takeing on sloping anchor point and preceding upper horizontal line and the wide line of preceding neck is preceding shoulder width line; The drafting of chest breadth line is to measure shoulder breadth point before the intersection point of 1/2 shoulder breadth-0.5cm and preceding shoulder width line vertically upward by antemedial line, again by the shoulder breadth point chest breadth position line that draws downward vertically, measure the 1-2cm location number by preceding shoulder breadth point downwards along the chest breadth position line, left the level chest breadth line that draws; The drafting of back shoulder width line is along the dark alignment of the back neck level back porch position line that draws behind the amount 27cm down by postmedial line, measure 3-4cm by the dark line of back neck left along the back porch position line again and do back porch slope anchor point, lead the intersection point of wide line to be linked to be with back upper horizontal line and back the sloping anchor point of back porch and promptly be drawn as back shoulder width line; It is the shoulder breadth point that being plotted as of across back line measured the intersection point that 1/2 shoulder breadth+0.3cm and back shoulder width line produced vertically upward by postmedial line, putting setting-out vertically upward by shoulder breadth is the across back position line, is measured upwards along the across back position line by shoulder breadth point that horizontal setting-out is the across back line behind the 1.5-2.5cm left.If make the clothes of putting shoulder pad, the shoulder slope anchor point of front and back garment piece is respectively by preceding upper horizontal line and measures the point of 6cm left and measure the shoulder slope anchor point that 3cm does by the dark line of back neck left along the back porch position line along the crop position line, measure 7cm, 4cm left by front and back, edge shoulder position line respectively and done a little definite sloping anchor point of takeing on if make before and after the upper garment of not putting shoulder pad the shoulder slope anchor point of garment piece, shoulder width line according to this draws.Make determining to be plotted as and measuring level is drawn behind the 1-1.5cm chest breadth line downwards and upwards measure the across back line that level is drawn behind the 1.5-2cm of the clothes chest breadth line of loose type and across back line by back shoulder breadth point along the chest breadth position line by preceding shoulder breadth point; But widely measure 2cm downwards and upwards measure chest breadth line across back line that 2.5cm draws the respectively body clothes that suit to make by back shoulder breadth point along the chest breadth position line by preceding.
The present invention compared with prior art has following advantage:
1, the drawing simple and fast is easily grasped, and need not utilize formula to calculate, and has reduced the trouble of calculating;
2, since in the drawing of the present invention chest breadth line and across back line be that the basis produces with the shoulder breadth, make the angle between this line and the shoulder breadth more perfect;
3, owing to when drawing pattern, can select locator data according to the style needs, the beginner also easily grasps, thus avoided in the prior art needing because of style and the special body size clothes on fundamental mode figure by rule of thumb the multi-section position adjust and the process of modification;
Description of drawings:
Fig. 1 draws schematic diagram for front cut pieces of the present invention
Fig. 2 draws schematic diagram for rear garment piece of the present invention
Among the figure: stopper line (1), antemedial line (2), Attacking Midfielder's nodel line (3), button bit (4), preceding muffs dark (5), FRONT NECK DROP line (6), preceding upper horizontal line (7), preceding neck camber line (8), preceding neck wide line (9), preceding shoulder breadth point (10), preceding shoulder width line (11), crop position line (12), crop slope anchor point (13), chest breadth position line (14), chest breadth line (15), preceding muffs camber line (16), preceding chest circumference line (17), forward swing suture (18), line (19) warps, preceding folding line (20), back side seam line (21), back chest circumference line (22), back sleeve camber line (23), across back line (24), back porch slope anchor point (25), back porch position line (26), back shoulder width line (27), back shoulder breadth point (28), across back position line (29), back neck dark line (30), back neck wide line (31), back neck camber line (32), back upper horizontal line (33), the dark line of back sleeve (34), postmedial line (35), low back nodel line (36), back folding line (37).
Below in conjunction with drawings and Examples in detail the present invention is described in detail: as shown in Figure 1, the drawing step of front cut pieces is: elder generation's horizontal line of picture is done antemedial line (2), folding line (20) before the vertical picture in the left side of antemedial line (2); By preceding folding line (20) upper horizontal line (7) before long vertical picture of side's clothing of amount; Measure 0.2 chest measurement+4cm or 2cm, 6cm left by preceding upper horizontal line (7), can be selected according to style, the dark line of muffs (5) before vertical the picture; Upwards measure 1/4 chest measurement level by antemedial line (2) and draw preceding chest circumference line (17); Measure 0.19 neck left by preceding upper horizontal line (7) and enclose vertical picture FRONT NECK DROP line (6); Before drawing, preceding upper horizontal line (7) the amount 0.18 neck level of enclosing leads wide line (9) by antemedial line (2); As figure draw before the neck camber line (8); Upwards measure the 27cm level by antemedial line (2) along preceding upper horizontal line (7) and draw crop position line (12); Measure 6-7cm by preceding upper horizontal line (7) left along crop position line (12) and do crop slope anchor point (13), as put shoulder pad and then measure 6cm left, the natural type of not putting shoulder pad is then to side amount 7cm, is preceding shoulder width line (11) with the intersection point line of crop slope anchor point (13) and preceding upper horizontal line (7) and the wide line of preceding neck (9); Shoulder breadth point (10) before measuring intersection point that 1/2 shoulder breadth-0.5cm and preceding shoulder width line (11) produced vertically upward and be by antemedial line (2); Draw chest breadth position line (14) downward vertically by preceding shoulder breadth point (10); Measure behind 1cm or 1.5cm or the 2cm location number left level by preceding shoulder breadth point (10) downwards along chest breadth position line (14) and draw chest breadth line (15), measuring the chest breadth line (15) that 1-1.5cm makees downwards is the loose type clothes, selects the 2cm location number for use but make the body clothes; As the figure foresleeve cage camber line (16) that draws; Measure behind the 1cm to the right and 1/2 place's line of preceding flanging (20) is warp (19) by preceding folding line (20) along preceding chest circumference line (17).The drafting of rear garment piece such as Fig. 2: draw earlier a horizontal line and do postmedial line (35), the line that warps (19) of front cut pieces is extended to postmedial line (35) vertically upward draw back folding line (37); Low back nodel line (36), the dark line of back sleeve (34) are the extension line of Attacking Midfielder's nodel line (3), the dark line of preceding muffs (5), and the extension line of preceding upper horizontal line (7) is a back neck dark line (30), also draws rear garment piece separately by above-mentioned size.Measure 2cm to the right by the back dark line of neck (30) and vertically draw back upper horizontal line (33), it is parallel with the dark line of neck (30); Measure 1/4 chest measurement level downwards by postmedial line (35) and draw back chest circumference line (22); Measure the 0.19 neck level of enclosing downwards by postmedial line (35) and draw back neck wide line (31), back neck camber line (32) as shown in Figure 2 draws; Measure the 27cm level by postmedial line (35) downwards along the back dark line of neck (30) and draw back porch position line (26); After measuring the 3-4cm location number left, back porch position line (26) does back porch slope anchor point (25) by the back dark line of neck (30), put shoulder pad and select 3cm for use, natural type is selected 4cm for use, leads the intersection point of wide line (31) to be wired to back shoulder width line (27) back porch slope anchor point (25) and back upper horizontal line (33) and back; Measure the intersection point that 1/2 shoulder breadth+0.3cm and back shoulder width line (27) produced vertically downward by postmedial line (35) and be back shoulder breadth point (28); Draw across back position line (29) vertically upward by back shoulder breadth point (28), by back shoulder breadth point (28) along across back position line (29) upwards behind 1.5cm or 2cm or the 2.5cm (can select location number) left level draw across back line (24); Draw back sleeve camber line (23) as shown in the figure, after front and back garment piece fundamental mode figure was painted, muffs arc length addition before and after measuring utilized prior art preparation one sleeve or split sleeve by measurement data.After pattern is drawn, carry out cutting by figure, the big I of neck is determined according to style.
Is that example further specifies below in conjunction with accompanying drawing to divide the formula women's dress equally: example is: number 160cm, the long 72cm of clothing, chest measurement 100cm, shoulder breadth 41cm, neck enclose 37cm, sleeve length 54cm
The drawing of front cut pieces positioning reference figure:
Stopper line (1): draw a horizontal line;
Preceding folding line (20): draw vertical line in stopper line (1) left side;
Preceding upper horizontal line (7): measure the long 72cm of clothing to the right by preceding folding line (20) and draw vertical line;
Antemedial line (2) that is take a line: a water gaging horizontal line of taking of upwards measuring 2cm by stopper line (1);
The preceding dark line of muffs (5): measure 0.2 chest measurement+4cm=24cm left by preceding upper horizontal line (7) and draw vertical line;
Attacking Midfielder's nodel line (3); Measure No. 1/4=40cm left by upper horizontal line (7) and draw vertical line;
Preceding chest circumference line (17): upwards measure 1/4 chest measurement=25cm by antemedial line (2) and draw horizontal line;
FRONT NECK DROP line (6): measuring 0.19 neck left by preceding upper horizontal line (7) encloses=and 7.03cm draws vertical line;
Before neck wide line (9): upwards measuring 0.18 neck by antemedial line (2) encloses=6.6cm draws horizontal line;
Preceding neck camber line (8); Press picture;
Preceding shoulder width line (11): upwards measure the 27cm level by antemedial line (2) and draw shoulder breadth position line (12), again by preceding
Upper horizontal line (7) selects back, 7cm location to produce the natural shoulder slope left along shoulder position line (12)
Anchor point (13) will be takeed on sloping anchor point (13) and preceding upper horizontal line (7) and the wide line of preceding neck
(9) intersection point line;
Preceding shoulder breadth point (10): upwards measure 1/2 shoulder breadth-0.5cm=20cm and shoulder width line (11) by antemedial line (2)
Intersection point;
Chest breadth line (15): draw downward vertically by shoulder breadth point (10) and to select behind the chest breadth position line (14) the 1.5cm location (to be
CHEMISE) draws horizontal line left;
Preceding muffs camber line (16): press picture;
Forward swing suture (18): on the basis of chest circumference line (17), receive waist 1.5cm, bottom 1cm line;
Line (19) warps: by preceding folding line (20) along forward swing suture (18) 1cm and preceding folding line (20) left
1/2 place's line;
Button bit: make by oneself
The drawing of rear garment piece positioning reference figure: see Fig. 2
Postmedial line (35): draw a horizontal line;
Back folding line (37): the vertical extension warps line (19) to postmedial line (35), also can be by postmedial line (35)
Vertical line is drawn in the left side;
Low back nodel line (36): Attacking Midfielder's nodel line extends to postmedial line (35);
The dark line of back sleeve (34): the dark line of preceding muffs extends to postmedial line (35);
Back neck dark line (30): preceding upper horizontal line (7) deepening is to postmedial line (35);
Back upper horizontal line (33): the parallel lines of measuring 2cm picture and the back dark line of neck (30) by the back dark line of neck (30) to the right;
Back chest circumference line (22): measure 1/4 chest measurement=25cm horizontal line downwards by postmedial line (35);
Back neck wide line (31): measuring 0.19 neck downwards by postmedial line (35) encloses=and 7.03cm draws horizontal line;
Back neck camber line (32): press picture
Back shoulder width line (27): measure the 27cm level downwards by postmedial line (35) and draw back porch position line (26); Again by
The back dark line of neck (30) is measured 4cm (natural shoulder slope point) left along back porch position line (26)
The sloping anchor point (25) of the back porch that draws is with back porch slope anchor point (25) and back upper horizontal line
(33) and the intersection point line of the wide line of back neck;
Back shoulder breadth point (28): measure 1/2 shoulder breadth+0.3cm=20.8cm and back porch slope downwards by postmedial line (35)
Line (27) joining promptly is
Across back line (24): draw across back position line (29) vertically upward by back shoulder breadth point (28), along the across back position line
(29) upwards measure 2cm (loose type clothes) and draw horizontal line left;
Back sleeve camber line (23): press picture
Back side seam line: on the basis of back chest circumference line (22), receive waist 1.5cm, bottom 1cm line.
Utilize prior art preparation collar, one sleeve or split sleeve, do not give unnecessary details here.After will scheming to draw well, carry out cutting by figure.
Claims (3)
1, a kind of positioning reference cutting-out method comprises drawing, presses the figure cutting, it is characterized in that:
The drafting of a, preceding shoulder width line is that level is drawn the crop position line after upwards measuring 27cm by antemedial line along preceding upper horizontal line, measure the 6-7cm fixed point by preceding upper horizontal line left along the crop position line and do crop slope anchor point, the intersection point line of takeing on sloping anchor point and preceding upper horizontal line and the wide line of preceding neck is preceding shoulder width line;
The drafting of b, chest breadth line is that the intersection point of measuring 1/2 shoulder breadth-0.5cm and preceding shoulder width line vertically upward by antemedial line is preceding shoulder breadth point, again by the shoulder breadth point chest breadth position line that draws downward vertically, measure the 1-2cm location number level chest breadth line that draws left downwards along the chest breadth position line by preceding shoulder breadth point;
The drafting of c, back shoulder width line is along the dark alignment of the back neck level back porch position line that draws behind the amount 27cm down by postmedial line, measure 3-4cm left along the back porch location by the dark line of back neck again and do back porch slope anchor point, lead the intersection point of wide line to be wired to back shoulder width line the sloping anchor point of back porch and back upper horizontal line and back;
The drafting of d, across back line is that to measure the intersection point that 1/2 shoulder breadth+0.3cm and back shoulder width line produced vertically upward by postmedial line be the shoulder breadth point, putting setting-out vertically upward by shoulder breadth is the across back position line, is measured upwards along the across back position line by shoulder breadth point that horizontal setting-out is the across back line behind the 1.5-2.5cm left.
2, according to the described positioning reference cutting-out method of claim, it is characterized in that the shoulder slope anchor point measuring 6cm left and done along the crop position line by preceding upper horizontal line and the shoulder slope anchor point measuring 3cm left and done along the back porch position line by the dark line of back neck for putting the sloping anchor point of the employed shoulder of shoulder pad; The shoulder slope anchor point of being measured 7cm, 4cm left and being done by front and back, edge shoulders position line is that natural type is takeed on sloping anchor point.
3,, it is characterized in that measuring level is drawn behind the 1-1.5cm chest breadth line downwards and upwards measuring level is drawn behind the 1.5-2cm the across back line loose type clothes that suit to make along the chest breadth position line by back shoulder breadth point by preceding shoulder breadth point according to the described positioning reference cutting-out method of claim; But widely measure 2cm downwards and upwards measure chest breadth line, across back line that 2.5cm draws the respectively body clothes that suit to make by back shoulder breadth point along the chest breadth position line by preceding.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 98100414 CN1225807A (en) | 1998-02-13 | 1998-02-13 | Positioning reference cutting-out method |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 98100414 CN1225807A (en) | 1998-02-13 | 1998-02-13 | Positioning reference cutting-out method |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN1225807A true CN1225807A (en) | 1999-08-18 |
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Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 98100414 Pending CN1225807A (en) | 1998-02-13 | 1998-02-13 | Positioning reference cutting-out method |
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| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN1225807A (en) |
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2006000148A1 (en) * | 2004-06-23 | 2006-01-05 | Shiyun Wang | A method of cutting suit-dress |
| CN1703988B (en) * | 2004-05-25 | 2011-01-19 | 江继明 | Paper folding costume fent method |
| CN103720106A (en) * | 2013-09-12 | 2014-04-16 | 王秀芝 | Personalized upper garment tailoring method |
-
1998
- 1998-02-13 CN CN 98100414 patent/CN1225807A/en active Pending
Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1703988B (en) * | 2004-05-25 | 2011-01-19 | 江继明 | Paper folding costume fent method |
| WO2006000148A1 (en) * | 2004-06-23 | 2006-01-05 | Shiyun Wang | A method of cutting suit-dress |
| CN103720106A (en) * | 2013-09-12 | 2014-04-16 | 王秀芝 | Personalized upper garment tailoring method |
| CN103720106B (en) * | 2013-09-12 | 2015-08-05 | 王秀芝 | Personalized jacket method of cutting out |
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| C06 | Publication | ||
| PB01 | Publication | ||
| C01 | Deemed withdrawal of patent application (patent law 1993) | ||
| WD01 | Invention patent application deemed withdrawn after publication |