WO2006000148A1

WO2006000148A1 - A method of cutting suit-dress

Info

Publication number: WO2006000148A1
Application number: PCT/CN2005/000863
Authority: WO
Inventors: Shiyun Wang
Original assignee: Shiyun Wang
Priority date: 2004-06-23
Filing date: 2005-06-16
Publication date: 2006-01-05
Also published as: CN1593280A

Abstract

This invention provides a method of cutting the suit-dress that can conform to breast contour line. The two reference vertical lines of the front cut parts turn round at the horizontal line of the rounded breasts. The angle of bend is relevant to the width and the height of the breast, thus the suit-dress need no more joint and ironing. Using this method, the dress can fit with the women breast more.

Description

Cutting method for women's clothing

The invention relates to a cutting method, and f temple is a cutting method for a women's clothing.

Background technique

At present, the front chest position of women's clothing is pursued by the shoulder province, the province, and the waist province. However, the breasts are overhead, and the outer sides of the breasts are inevitably wrinkled, and the upper side and the lower side of the breast are not fit. It is not tight when worn, and it can't show the beauty of the female chest.

Summary of the invention

The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to solve the deficiencies of the prior art, and propose a cutting method for a women's clothing that conforms to the chest contour. After wearing the garment, the front chest position is fully consistent with the contours of the female's chest, no wrinkles, no overhead.

The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is achieved by the following technical solution, a cutting method for a women's clothing, which is characterized in that

First measure: measure waist length, chest circumference, waist circumference, chest width, back width, total shoulder, collar length, shoulder length, breast peak distance (distance between two nipples), milk ridge (nip point to The distance of the imaginary breastless breast surface)

Calculate the length of the milk slope = V (milk peak distance ÷ 2) 2 + milk ridge ²

1 Before cutting the middle piece, first make a picture on the cloth, the picture is the net powder, that is, the seam is not added, the drawing method is as follows: The milk peak horizontal line AB two milk peak distance ÷ 2; AB vertical line AC, intercept AC =AB; connect BC and extend to D, make AD breast slope long, connect AD;

1

Confirmation Obtain AE=AB on AD; take E as the vertical line EF of AD, intercept EF II AB _; extend AB to point G, intercept AG two AD, connect GF _; extend AD, cross point F to make AD parallel line FK; Make a parallel line LM between AD and FK, and make the distance between LM and AD = collar width; measure L on LM, make LG shoulder thickness; measure M on LM, make LM collar The height of the fossa; the extension line of the AD perpendicular to M is AD; the extension line of AD perpendicular to L is AD; the extension of JL and FK to K point; the collar thread LN according to the conventional method;

Take AG as the axis of symmetry, do the quadrilateral AEFG symmetrical quadrilateral AHIG; measure 0 point on the extension line of AH, make AO two lumbar lengths a JA; do OP and AO perpendicular, OP is the waist horizontal line; intercept OP=ffl, connect IP (or moderately waist according to the body shape); outside the NAO line, you can add or sew the door width according to the style of the clothing; 'If you design the buttonhole, set one on the BA extension line, and the other buttonholes are evenly distributed. Sometimes 6 buttonholes can be set and cut as shown;

2 Before cutting the side film, first draw the picture on the cloth. The picture is the net powder, that is, the seam is not added. The method of drawing is as follows: Extend AG to A', intercept A'G'-AG; rely on A'G'G'I'Η'A' J ⁷ Κ'F' is symmetrical with GIHAJ F, and makes a straight line P'Ο' and ΡΟ symmetry; fold F' and KF lines together, note that the last cut must be added Make a seam; make the shoulder horizontal line QR, make it parallel with K'J', two line distance = bust ÷ 2; measure Q point, make JQ = total shoulder ÷ 2, connect LQ with slow arc (involving two pieces ); K'S' is measured on K'J' (the width of the front chest is a milky peak) ÷2, ST is parallel with K'F', and the ST is always deep, and the TU is perpendicular to the ST. The intersection of TU and A'J' is V, intercepting VU, making VU II (bust 4) - (milk peak distance 2) - milk slope Long; according to the conventional method of the armhole arc QU, its intersection with A' E ' is W; from I ' Down I' Η ' the vertical line, intersect with the middle waist line, moderately waist to Ρ ', connect I ' Ρ '; From H' down to the vertical line of H' I ', intersect with the middle waist line, moderately waist to 0', connect Η ' 0 ', cut according to the picture;

3 After cutting the side piece and the back piece, first make a picture on the cloth, the picture is the net powder, that is, the seam is not added, the drawing method is as follows: Make the horizontal line V' X the bottom line of the sleeve of the back piece; X is taken from V' U' = VU = (chest circumference ÷ 4) one (milk peak distance ) 2) - milk slope length; and W' VU' is the same as WVU in the front side picture; relying on U' WVX Determine the rear side piece, the method is the same as the conventional method, pay attention to the waist; a vertical piece corresponding to V' U' can also be cut separately without being cut with the back side piece, or cut together with the front side piece, press Picture cropping

Determine the middle film, the method of which is the same as the conventional method, pay attention to the waist,

The part below the waistline of each piece, or the division or continuation, is the same as the conventional method. The remaining pieces such as collars, sleeves, skirts, etc. are cut in the same manner as conventional methods. The technical problem to be solved by the present invention can be further realized by the following technical solutions. In order to adapt to a full breast, the above four segments of FG, GI, F 'G', G' I ' can be drawn into a gently curved line. .

The technical problem to be solved by the present invention can be further realized by the following technical solutions, wherein the GK and the G' K' can be directly connected to a straight line, so that the sewn garment is cut to make the breast slightly overhead.

The technical problem to be solved by the present invention can be further achieved by the following technical solutions, wherein the value of the milk ridge can be appropriately reduced or close to zero, and the angle of the front middle piece is ZJAO. The angle becomes larger, or close to 180 degrees, so that the tailored clothes make the two breasts half recessed and half overhead, taking into account the fit and the concealment.

The technical problem to be solved by the present invention can be further realized by the following technical solution, the width of the front side piece can be changed from the princess line to the vertical line of the underarm, and the outer edge of the front side piece is bent by the vertical line of the reference line. The point can be moved up to the intersection of the baseline vertical line and the armhole curve, or it can be moved sideways to the underarm. The so-called princess line is in the women's clothing, through the vertical seam of the breast tip, and the corresponding seam on the back.

Compared with the prior art, the reference vertical line is bent at the horizontal line of the milk peak, and the degree of bending is related to the width of the breast and the height of the bulge, which can be determined by a geometric method, and a ridge which is anastomosed to the breast is formed after the sewing. Beautiful fit, and without excessive splicing, no special ironing set. The advantages of the present invention are: After the garment is worn, the front chest position is fully conformed to the contour of the female chest, without wrinkles, and without overhead. The circumference of the breast is more fit than the current clothing, especially the two breasts are also consistent with the body undulations, round and fit, no overhead, or retain a certain degree of overhead according to the different preferences of the wearer, thus fully showing the beauty of the female chest. .

DRAWINGS

Figure 1 is a cut-away view of the front middle panel and the front side panel of the present invention.

Figure 2 is a cut-up view of the rear middle panel and the rear side panel of the present invention.

detailed description

The present invention will be further described below by taking the upper garment piece of the dress as an example. The picture shows the net powder (the pieces should be added separately for sewing), and the length is in centimeters.

The assumed specifications are: waist length 42, chest circumference 92, waist circumference 72, front chest width 32, back width 34, total shoulder 40, collar length 38, shoulder distance 26, milk peak distance (distance between the two nipples) 18, milk bulge (the distance from the nipple to the imaginary breastless breast surface) 5,

Calculate the length of the milk slope = V (milk peak distance ÷ 2) ² + milk ridge ²

= 10. 3 cm

Then draw on the fabric as described in Figure 1:

1 Make the front middle picture, the drawing method is as follows: for the milk peak horizontal line AB = milk peak distance = 2 = 9 cm; for AB vertical line AC, intercept AC = AB; connect BC and extend to D, make AD = Milk slope length = 10. 3 cm, connected with AD; intercept AE two AB on AD; pass E point for AD vertical line EF, intercept EF^AB; extend AB to point G, intercept AG= AD, connect GF; AD, the parallel line FK of AD is made by point F; the parallel line LM of the two is made between AD and FK, and the distance between the LM and the AD line is = the collar width = collar length + 5 = 7.6 cm; Determine L on LM, make 1 }=shoulder distance; measure M on LM, make LM=collar height= collar length+5=7.6 cm; pass M to AD vertical line AD extension line to N; Do AD vertical line AD extension line in J; extend JL and FK to point K; according to the conventional method for collar thread LN;

Take AG as the axis of symmetry, do the quadrilateral AEFG symmetrical quadrilateral AHIG; measure the O point on the extension line of AH, make the AO two-waist length one AJ; do OP and AO perpendicular, OP is the waist horizontal line; intercept OP=ffl, connect IP (or moderately waist according to the body shape); outside the NAO line, you can add or loosen the door width according to the style of the clothing; if you design the buttonhole, set one on the extension line of the BA, and other buttonholes are distributed as appropriate. Sometimes 6 buttonholes can be set and cut as shown;

2 Do the front side picture, the method of drawing is as follows: Extend AG to A', intercept A'G' Two AG; rely on A'G' to make G'I'H'A'J'K'F' symmetry with GIHAJKF, and make a straight line P'Ο' and PO symmetry; overlap K'F' and F lines Together, note that the last cut must be done separately; do the shoulder horizontal line QR, make it parallel with K'J', two lines distance = bust + 20 = 4.6 cm; determine Q point, make JQ two total shoulder 2 , connect the LQ with a slow arc (involving two pieces); measure K' S= on K'J' (the width of the front chest is one milky peak) ÷ 2 = 7 cm, and ST is parallel to K'F' , and make 8 □ = total sleeves deep second bust + 6 + 8 = 23.3 cm, do TU and ST vertical, TU and A'J' intersection is V, intercept VU, make VU two (bust ÷ 4) one ( Milky peak distance 2) - milk slope length = 3.7 cm; according to the conventional method, the armhole arc QU, its intersection with A' Ε ' is W; self Γ downward I' Η ' vertical line, with the middle waist Lines intersect, moderately waist to Ρ', connect I' Ρ ⁷ ; from H' down to the vertical line of '1', intersect with the mid-waist line, moderately waist to 0', connect Η '0', according to the map Cutting

Drawing on the fabric as described in Figure 2:

3 Do the rear side and the back middle picture. The method of drawing is as follows: Make the horizontal line V' X the bottom line of the sleeves of the back piece; take V' U' = VU= on the V' X (the bust ÷ 4) - (milk peak distance ) 2) - milk slope length = 3.7 cm; and by this W' VU' is the same as WVU in the front side picture; relying on U' WVX to determine the rear side piece, the method is the same as the conventional method, pay attention to Waist; a vertical piece of clothing corresponding to V' U' can also be cut separately from the back side piece, or cut together with the front side piece.

Crop as shown. In addition, the drawing method of the collar, the sleeve, and the skirt is the same as the conventional method. If you cut garments that are not seamed at the waist, such as: ordinary tops, coats, windbreakers, etc., Next to the waist line.

For example, if you cut the "suit", you can cut the pants under the waistline, and the waistline can be seamed or seamless. A long zip can be placed in the center or side of the "suit".

In the present embodiment, in order to accommodate a person with a small breast, the four segments of FG, GI, F' G', and G' I' should be made into line segments.

In another embodiment of the present invention, in order to accommodate a full breast, as shown by the broken line in Fig. 1, the four segments of FG, GI, F'G', G'I' may be drawn into a gently curved line.

The GK and G' Κ' of the present invention can also be directly connected to a straight line, so that the sewn garments are cut to make the breasts slightly overhead.

In the present invention, the value of the milk ridge can be appropriately reduced or close to zero, and the angle of the angle ZJAO of the front middle piece becomes larger, or close to 180 degrees, so that the sewn clothes are cut so that the two breasts are partially recessed and half overhead. Take care of both fit and implied.

The width of the front side panel of the present invention can be changed from the princess line to the vertical line of the underarm. In this case, the bending point of the outer edge of the front side piece can be moved up to the reference vertical line and the armhole curve. The intersection point can also be moved to the armpit.

The women's clothing according to the present invention, when storing and packaging, the front chest position in the clothes should be placed

Claims

Rights request

A method of cutting a women's garment, characterized in that

First measure the waist length, chest circumference, waist circumference, chest width, back width, total shoulder, collar length, shoulder length, breast peak distance, breast bulge, etc.

Calculate the length of the milk slope 2 (milk peak distance ) ² ) ² + milk ridge ²

1 Before cutting the middle piece, first make a picture on the cloth. The picture is the net powder, that is, the seam is not added. The method of drawing is as follows: Make the milk peak horizontal line AB = milk peak distance ÷ 2; make AB vertical line AC, intercept AC =AB; connect BC and extend to D, make AD milk slope long, connect AD; intercept AE=AB on AD; pass E point as AD vertical line EF, intercept EF=AB; extend AB to point G, intercept AG =AD, connect GF; extend AD, make parallel line FK of AD through point F; do parallel line LM between AD and FK, and make the distance between LM and AD two lines = collar width; Determine L, make LG shoulder-to-shoulder distance; measure M on LM, make LM collar height high; pass M to AD vertical line AD extension line to N; over L do AD vertical line AD extension line in J ; extend JL and FK to point K; use the conventional method as the collar arc LN;

Take AG as the axis of symmetry, do the quadrilateral AEFG symmetrical quadrilateral AHIG; measure 0 point on the extension line of AH, make AO=waist length _JA; do OP and AO perpendicular, OP is waist horizontal line; intercept OP=ffl, connect IP; outside the NAO line, it can be added according to the style of the garment to make the seam or add the width of the door, and cut according to the figure;

2 Before cutting the side piece, first draw the picture on the cloth, the picture is the net powder, that is, the seam is not added. The method of drawing is as follows: Extend AG to A', intercept A'G' = AG _; rely on A'G' Do G'Ι'Η' Α 'J' Κ ' F ' is symmetrical with GIHAJKF, and make a straight line Ρ ' Ο ' and ΡΟ symmetry; after the K' and KF lines are overlapped, the shoulder horizontal line QR, Make it parallel to K'J', two line distance = bust ÷ 20; measure Q point, make JQ = total shoulder 2, connect LQ with slow arc; measure K' S = (previous) on K'J' Chest width and milk peak distance) ÷2, ST is parallel with K' F ', and ST = total armhole depth, TU is perpendicular to ST, TU and A'J' intersection is V, intercept VU, make VU = (chest circumference ÷ 4) one (milk peak distance ) 2) - milk slope length; according to the conventional method of the armhole arc QU, its intersection with A' Ε ' is W; I 'H' from I ' down The vertical line intersects the mid-waist line, moderately waists to P', and connects Γ Ρ'; from H' down to the vertical line of H'I', intersects with the mid-waist line, moderately waists to 0', connecting Η' 0 ', crop as shown;

3 After cutting the side piece and the back piece, first make a picture on the cloth, the picture is the net powder. The method of drawing is as follows: Make the horizontal line V' X the bottom line of the sleeves of the back piece; take the V' U on the V' X ' =VU 2 (bust ÷ 4) - (milk peak distance ) 2) - milk slope length; and by doing W' V' U' is the same as WVU in the front side picture; relying on U' Ψ 'VX The side film is the same as the conventional method, and the waist is attached; the vertical piece corresponding to the V' U' can be cut separately without being cut with the back side piece, or cut together with the front side piece.

Crop as shown.

The method of cutting a women's clothing according to claim 1, wherein the four segments of FG, GI, F'G', and G'1' are drawn into a gently curved line.

3. The method of cropping a women's garment according to claim 1, wherein the GK and G'Κ' are directly connected as a straight line.

The cutting method of a women's clothing according to claim 1, wherein the angle of the milk ridge is appropriately reduced or zero, and the angle of the angle ZJAO of the front middle piece becomes large, or is 180 degrees.

5. The method of cropping a women's garment according to claim 1, wherein the width of the front side panel is from a princess line to a vertical line of the underarm, and the outer edge of the front side sheet is at a bending point of the vertical line. Move to the intersection of the baseline vertical line and the armhole curve, or move it to the underarm.