CN110664039B - Four-quarter female dress type template in golden proportion and four-quarter female dress and plate making method - Google Patents
Four-quarter female dress type template in golden proportion and four-quarter female dress and plate making method Download PDFInfo
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/007—Methods of drafting or marking-out patterns using computers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/06—Patterns on paper
Abstract
The invention provides a golden ratio four-bodied women's dress template, four-bodied women's dress and a plate making method, which introduces golden ratio division into four-bodied women's dress structural design, eliminates coefficients in experience matching formulas, combines drawing waistline 34 equal division used in the place to replace numerical conversion to set provinces, provinces and amounts and modeling designs, avoids calculating and distributing each province along with the increase and decrease of chest circumference, thereby avoiding the misworry of the teaching and learning of clothing design along with different specifications and part connection, attaching to the design no matter how the audience specifications change, ensuring that each clothing piece is always scientific and orderly, no-going, needing no repeated modification, repeatedly making the sample clothing, improving productivity and reducing cost.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of clothing design, in particular to a golden ratio four-open women's clothing template, four-open women's clothing and a plate making method, which are mainly applicable to adult four-open women's clothing.
Background
Because of the high randomness, the clothing structural design people imagine that the technology content is not high, and the subjects of the clothing structural design are multiple, and the clothing structural design can also create the difference in milli-centimeter like creation, so that the designer cannot confirm how to calculate the standard from various to various, and the clothing structural design has no scientific definition depending on the natural law so far, thereby breeding a series of subjects.
For the worldwide difficult problem, the science and technology personnel '35274' has long been used for applying higher-order mathematical theory to try various inventions and creations under the assistance of a computer, and the tailoring property of the measuring and tailoring clothes is also contained, even if the tailoring is authorized, the characteristic jump does not exist in the prior art, and the observer only looks at the same time.
The clothing structural design is composed of a net body specification and a loose quantity. The net body specification is a national promulgated clothes size mark, and the structural design after the addition and release of the net body specification is free from the standard which can be followed by the trust of operators. Thus, no matter how many structural designers of the same style create finished ready-made clothes, the marking specifications are the same, but the structural sizes of the internal parts are different, the ratio of molecules to different denominators in an empirical formula is radically generated, the sizes of the parts arranged under the matching of the supplementary coefficients are against a scientific formation system, the number relation of the parts is out of constraint at random, the parts are in unequal ratio, and the connection of the parts of the model is inaccurate along with the different specifications. In this regard, the existence of anisometric is also well understood in the prior art by chinese patent grant publication No. CN 1132537C.
The method is characterized in that the method comprises the steps of firstly, the size concept is adopted, the other industries have the recognized national or industry specification standard, only the clothing exception is made, the country only issues the clean body specification, the added and relaxed amount is that a beginner, a professional edition teacher and a teaching teacher are empirically sized according to the style, and the random is larger, in the prior art, the finished clothing is longer or shorter, even if the clothing is repeatedly modified and repeatedly manufactured, only the unbalanced phenomenon of the fat and thin is corrected, and the shape is changed more and more poorly.
The investigation of authoritative specialists in China indicates that: university students learn the hard part sizing of the formula matched by experience, such as the proportional method, the basic method, the prototype, and the like, destroy the plate making technology of the shape and the structure, and in practice, the students are difficult to trust due to the trouble of repeated modification, and finally can adhere to less than 1% of the plate. (original year 2003 clothing times), so the current problem is still worry today, bringing a lot of inconvenience to study and production.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides a four-body women's clothing template with golden proportion, which can be directly called by practitioners, and can be conveniently and quickly scaled to a reference frame diagram meeting the chest circumference specification by using clothing CAD software, then the design of the wanted detailed structural modeling is completed according to the style, repeated modification is not needed, and the efficiency of the clothing structural design is greatly improved.
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
a four-quarter female dress template in golden proportion comprises a front middle clothes piece, a front side clothes piece, a rear middle clothes piece, a rear side clothes piece and a sleeve piece template positioned between the front side clothes piece and the rear side clothes piece;
the front piece template comprises a drawing chest circumference front piece, a drawing waistline front piece and a lower hem front piece which extend downwards from a shoulder in sequence, one side of the sleeve piece template, facing the drawing chest circumference front piece, is a door front piece, the rear piece template comprises a drawing chest circumference rear piece, a drawing waistline rear piece and a lower hem rear piece which extend downwards from the shoulder in sequence, and one side of the sleeve piece template, facing the drawing chest circumference rear piece, is a door rear piece;
the width of the front piece of the drawing chest circumference and the width of the rear piece of the drawing chest circumference are half of the drawing chest circumference, the short distance of the golden section of the width of the front drawing chest circumference is added by half of the long distance, the width of 1/3 equal parts of the narrow split door is added as the front chest width, and the two times of the short distance of the golden section of the width of the rear drawing chest circumference is the back width;
the length of the back waist section of the back plate is twice as long as the width of the back, and the long section of the back waist section golden section is positioned on the deep line of the chest circumference of the back plate;
the width of the rear upper flat line of the rear template is equal to the width of the rear drawing chest circumference, the rear shoulder width is divided into 1/2 equal parts, the width of the rear transverse open collar on the rear upper flat line is divided into 5 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the rear straight open collar of the rear template is 1 and 2/3 equal parts, the small shoulder width on the rear upper flat line is divided into 8.5 equal parts, and the equal parts are 1/34 of the drawing waistline width;
the transverse width of the vertical angle of the back shoulder inclined height of the back plate is 8.5 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is 3 equal parts, and the outer shoulder end of the vertical angle is discharged to save 1/2 equal parts of the back shoulder;
the front upper flat line of the front template is shifted upwards by 1/2 equal parts than the rear upper flat line, and the width of the front upper flat line is equal to the width of the front drawing chest circumference;
the width of the front transverse open collar on the front upper flat line is 5 and 2/3 equal parts, wherein the width of the split door is 2/3 equal parts, and the longitudinal height of the front straight open collar of the front piece template is 5.5 equal parts;
the transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclined height of the front piece template is equal to 9 and 1/3, and the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is equal to 4;
the chest height point of the front template corresponds to the chest province amount of 2 equal parts upwards from the middle point of the drawing chest circumference;
2 perpendicular bisectors passing through the rear armhole arc of the rear piece template are equally divided, and 1 perpendicular bisector passing through the front armhole arc of the front piece template is equally divided by 2/3;
the distance from the waist pitch line of the front and back sample plates to the lower cycloid of the drawing is the length of the golden section with the length of the back waist pitch.
The utility model provides a quarto body suit, includes symmetrical amalgamation's preceding middle clothes piece, front side clothing piece, back middle clothes piece and back side clothing piece, the armhole department of front side clothing piece, back side clothing piece is provided with the sleeve piece, preceding middle clothes piece, front side clothing piece, back middle clothes piece and back side clothing piece and sleeve piece all use the golden ratio quarto body suit style template of foretell to make.
A four-opening female board making method comprises the following steps:
1) Drawing a drawing chest circumference basic line, and marking as a line segment 1;
2) Designing a half of the back waist length of the back template to be the back width, wherein the long section of the back waist length golden section is positioned on the chest circumference deep line of the back;
3) On the basis of the line segment 1, the distance between the long segment of the back waist section length golden section and the longitudinal height of the back straight open collar is set as a back upper flat line and is marked as a line segment 2;
the width of the line segment 2 is designed to be the width of the back drawing chest circumference, the back shoulder width on the line segment 2 is designed to be the back width plus 1/2 of the equal division, the width of the back transverse open collar on the line segment 2 is designed to be 5 equal divisions, the small shoulder width on the line segment 2 is designed to be 8.5 equal divisions, the longitudinal height of the back straight open collar is designed to be 1/2/3 of the equal division, and the equal division is 1/34 of the drawing waistline width;
4) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the inclined height of the rear shoulder at one end of the line segment 2 is designed to be 8.5 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 3 equal parts, and the outer shoulder end of the vertical angle is discharged to be 1/2 equal parts of the rear shoulder province;
5) Taking the left side of a rectangular area between the line segment 1 and the line segment 2 as a drawing chest circumference back piece, the right side as a drawing chest circumference front piece, half of the drawing chest circumference as the width of the drawing chest circumference front piece, the other half as the width of the drawing chest circumference back piece, the short distance of the golden section of the width of the drawing chest circumference front piece plus half of the long distance, and the width of 1/3 equal divisions of the narrow split gate as the front chest width, and the double of the short distance of the golden section of the width of the drawing chest circumference back piece as the back width;
6) After the right end point of the rear line segment 2 moves upwards by 1/2 equal dividing distance, a front upper flat line with the same length as the front drawing chest circumference is arranged at the front sample plate and is marked as a line segment 3;
7) The width of the front transverse open collar on the line segment 3 is designed to be 5 and 2/3 equal parts, wherein the width of the split door is 2/3 equal parts, and the longitudinal height of the front straight open collar is designed to be 5.5 equal parts;
8) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclined height at one end of the line segment 3 is designed to be 9 and 1/3 equally divided, and the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 4 equally divided;
9) The angle bisector passing through by the back armhole arc line of the back piece template is divided equally by 2, and the angle bisector passing through by the front armhole arc line of the front piece template is divided equally by 1 and 2/3;
102 chest provinces corresponding to the chest high points of the front template are equally arranged upwards at the middle points of the chest circumference of the drawing;
11 On the basis of the line segment 1, setting the short distance of the golden section of the waist section length after downward movement as a waist section line, and recording as a line segment 4;
12 On the basis of the line segment 4, the distance of downward movement of the drawing hip height is set as a drawing hypocycloid and is marked as a line segment 5, wherein the height of the drawing hip height is a long segment of the rear waist section length golden section;
13 1 bisection of the back middle waist, 2 bisection of the front and back side waist, and 1 and 2/3 bisection of the front middle waist;
the width of the loss-saving amount of the back middle lower hem is 1 equal part, the width of the overlapping amount of the back middle lower hem is 1/4 equal part, the width of the overlapping amount of the front and back side lower hem is 1/3 equal part, and the front middle lower hem falls 1/3 equal part;
14 A back middle waist-saving part, a front and back side waist-saving part and a front middle waist-saving part are arranged at the waist part between the back piece template and the front piece template; and dividing half of the total area of the loss-saving amounts of the rear middle seam waist province, the rear middle waist province, the front and rear side seam waist provinces, the front middle waist province and the rest blocks by the drawing chest circumference to generate a beta amount, and shifting the cycloid under the drawing upwards by the beta amount to obtain the length of the rear middle garment.
According to the technical scheme, the golden ratio division is firstly and comprehensively introduced into the structural design of the four-bodied women's clothing, coefficients in an experience matching formula are removed, the drawing waistline 34 halving used for the women's clothing is combined to replace numerical conversion to set the province, the province and the modeling design, the problem that each province is calculated and distributed along with the increase and decrease of chest circumference is avoided, the integral coordination of the equal ratio of the positions and the matching length of the girth after the relaxation is created is avoided, the correspondence of the personnel is ensured, the teaching and the learning of the clothing design are no longer to show inaccurate assuredly along with different specifications and connection of the positions, the design is always scientifically ordered without going away, the repeated modification is not needed, the sample clothing is repeatedly manufactured, the productivity is improved, and the cost is reduced.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a four-bladed female garment frame according to the present invention;
FIG. 2 is an expanded plan view of FIG. 1;
FIG. 3 is an enlarged schematic illustration of the 1/3 aliquot, 1/4 aliquot of the map of FIG. 2;
FIG. 4 is a block diagram of the area surplus block taken out of FIG. 2;
FIG. 5 is a layout of a garment body in a pattern template of the present invention;
FIG. 6 is an enlarged schematic view of 1/3 of the plot of FIG. 5, 1/4 of the plot
FIG. 7 is a layout of a sleeve according to the present invention;
fig. 8 is a full body effect diagram of a four-quarter female garment embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 9 is a diagram of a model of a body design structure in an embodiment of the present invention;
fig. 10 is a diagram of a design structure of a sleeve sheet according to the present embodiment.
Detailed Description
A preferred embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.
As shown in fig. 2 and 5, the golden ratio four-piece women's dress form includes a front panel form 100, a rear panel form 200, and a sleeve panel form 300 positioned between the front and rear panel forms.
The front panel template 100 comprises a drawing chest circumference front panel 110, a drawing waistline front panel 120 and a lower hem front panel 130 which extend downwards from the shoulder in sequence, and the side of the sleeve panel template 300 facing the drawing chest circumference front panel is a door front panel 140.
The back panel template comprises a drawing chest circumference back panel 210, a drawing waistline back panel 220 and a lower hem back panel 230 which extend downwards from the shoulder in sequence, and one side of the sleeve panel template facing the drawing chest circumference back panel is a back panel 240 of a door.
Definition of lower drawing chest circumference front piece, drawing waistline front piece, lower hem front piece, drawing chest circumference back piece, drawing waistline back piece, lower hem back piece and equally divided meanings is needed:
the area formed by the front piece drawing chest girth line corresponding to the front chest width DE and the front upper flat line NM is taken as a drawing chest circumference front piece 110, and the area formed by the rear piece drawing chest girth line corresponding to the rear back width AC and the rear upper flat line HK is taken as a drawing chest circumference rear piece 210.
The area formed by the downward movement of the front panel of the drawing chest circumference is taken as a drawing waistline front panel 120, and the area formed by the downward movement of the rear panel of the drawing chest circumference is taken as a drawing waistline rear panel 220. The area formed by the downward movement of the drawing waistline front sheet is a lower hem front sheet 130, and the area formed by the downward movement of the drawing waistline back sheet is a lower hem back sheet 230.
The bisection is drawn as chest circumference = 1/34 of the drawing waist circumference.
The golden section is defined as dividing the whole into two parts, the ratio of the larger part to the whole being equal to the ratio of the smaller part to the larger part, which is about 0.618. This ratio is recognized as the most aesthetically pleasing ratio and is therefore referred to as the golden section.
The width DB of the front piece of the drawing chest circumference and the width AB of the rear piece of the drawing chest circumference are half of the drawing chest circumference, the short distance of the golden section of the width of the front drawing chest circumference is added with half of the long distance, the width of 1/3 equal parts E which are added with the narrow split door is the front chest width DE, and the double of the short distance of the golden section of the width AB of the rear drawing chest circumference is the back width AC.
The length FG of the back waist section of the back plate is twice the width AC of the back, and the long section of the golden section of the back waist section is positioned on the chest circumference deep line AG of the back plate.
The width of the rear upper flat line HK of the rear piece template is equal to the width of the rear drawing chest circumference, the rear shoulder width HJ is divided into 1/2 equal parts by adding the rear shoulder width AC, the width HI of the rear transverse open collar on the rear upper flat line HK is divided into 5 equal parts, the longitudinal height GH of the rear straight open collar of the rear piece template is divided into 1 and 2/3 equal parts, and the small shoulder width IJ on the rear upper flat line HK is divided into 8.5 equal parts by dividing into 1/34 of the drawing waistline width;
the transverse width of the vertical angle of the rear shoulder inclined height JL of the rear piece template is 8.5 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is 3 equal parts, and the outer shoulder end of the vertical angle is discharged to save 1/2 equal parts of the rear small shoulder;
the front upper flat line MN of the front piece template is shifted upwards by 1/2 equal parts than the rear upper flat line HK, and the width of the front upper flat line MN is equal to the width of the front drawing chest circumference;
the width NO of the front transverse opening collar on the front upper flat line MN is 5 and 2/3 equal parts, wherein the width of the split door is 2/3 equal parts, and the longitudinal height NP of the front straight opening collar of the front piece template is 5.5 equal parts;
the transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclined height RS of the front piece template is equal to 9 and 1/3, and the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is equal to 4;
the chest high point BP of the front template corresponds to the chest saving BU which is equal to 2 upwards from the middle point B of the chest circumference of the drawing;
the rear armhole arc line of the rear piece template passes through the perpendicular bisector 2 equally divided, and the front armhole arc line of the front piece template passes through the perpendicular bisector 1/3 equally divided.
The distance from the waist pitch line FW of the front and back sample plates to the cycloid XY under the drawing is the length of the golden section of the back waist pitch length FG.
The width BE of the front sheet 140 of the door of the hole is the width DB of the front sheet of the chest circumference of the drawing minus the width DE of the front chest, and the arc line of the horizontal and vertical intersection connection of the door of the hole is equally divided by 1 and 2/3 perpendicular angle bisectors thereof;
the width of the back sheet 240 of the door is the width AB of the back sheet of the chest circumference of the drawing minus the width AC of the back, and the arc line of the intersecting connection of the horizontal and vertical sides of the door passes through the end points of 2 equally divided perpendicular angle bisectors.
As shown in fig. 7, the design of the sleeve panel template is as follows:
the sleeve peak height BS1 of the sleeve sheet template is 10 equal parts extended upwards from the middle point B of the chest circumference of the drawing.
Width A of rear sleeve root of sleeve piece template 1 B is 13 equal parts, the width W of the front sleeve root 1 B is 12 equal parts; the waist joint line FW is downwards prolonged by 19 equally-divided sleeve lengths S 1 L 1 Wherein the width C of the cuffs 1 W 2 The front cuff of the cuff was divided into 18 equally divided portions and the width of the front cuff of the cuff was divided into 9 equally divided portions.
In the invention, the waist part between the rear piece template and the front piece template is provided with a rear middle waist section, a front and rear side waist section and a front middle waist section.
The width 1 of the back middle slit waist is divided equally, the width 2 of the front and back side slit waist is divided equally, and the width 1 and 2/3 of the front middle slit waist is divided equally;
the width of the loss-saving amount of the back middle lower hem is 1 equal to X-33, the width of the overlapping amount of the back middle lower hem is 1/4 equal to 34, the width of the overlapping amount of the front and back side lower hem is 1/3 equal to 35, and the front middle lower hem falls 1/3 equal to Y.
As shown in fig. 2 and 4, the clothing CAD software is used to remove the remaining pieces of the clothing body loss saving amount (square centimeter) area, and a, b, c, d, e (the overlapping amount is subtracted in the later calculation), f, g, h, i (the overlapping amount is subtracted in the later calculation), j, k are sequentially from the back.
The golden rectangle is applied to the structural design of four-bodied women's clothing, and half of the total area of the loss-saving quantity of the reference diagram is the content in the width, which is referred to as chest circumference; the other half refers to the length, i.e. the (posterior middle) garment length to be determined. Namely, the total area of the loss-saving amounts of the rear middle seam waist province, the rear middle waist province, the front and rear side seam waist provinces, the front middle waist province and the residual blocks is divided by the drawing chest circumference AD to generate a beta amount, and the lower cycloid XY of the drawing is shifted upwards by the beta amount to obtain the length GZ of the rear middle garment, so the length of the rear middle garment is the height of the rear waist section, and the length section of the golden section of the height of the rear waist section is subtracted by 2 equal parts.
As shown in fig. 1 and 7, the present invention also provides a four-bodied suit comprising a front middle panel 101, a front side panel 102, a rear middle panel 201 and a rear side panel 202 which are symmetrically split, wherein armholes of the front side panel and the rear side panel are provided with armholes. The front middle garment piece, the front side garment piece, the rear middle garment piece and the rear side garment piece and the sleeve piece are all made of the four-body women garment type template with the golden ratio.
The invention also provides a four-opening female board manufacturing method, which comprises the following steps:
1) Drawing a drawing chest circumference (a net chest circumference 84 cm+a loose quantity 8 cm+a loss-saving quantity 4 cm) basic line AD, and marking as a line segment 1;
2) Designing a half of a back waist length FG of the back panel template to be a back width AC, wherein a long section of the back waist length FG golden section is positioned on a back chest circumference deep line AG;
3) On the basis of the line segment 1, the distance between the long segment of the back waist section length FG golden section and the longitudinal height GH of the back straight open collar is set as a back upper flat line HK and is recorded as a line segment 2;
the width of the line segment 2 is designed to be the width of the back drawing chest circumference, the back shoulder width HJ on the line segment 2 is designed to be the back width AC plus 1/2 equal divisions, the width HI of the back transverse open collar on the line segment 2 is designed to be 5 equal divisions, the small shoulder width IJ on the line segment 2 is designed to be 8.5 equal divisions, the longitudinal height GH of the back straight open collar is designed to be 1 and 2/3 equal divisions, and the equal divisions are 1/34 of the drawing waistline width;
4) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the back shoulder inclined height JL at one end of the line segment 2 is designed to be 8.5 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 3 equal parts, and the outer shoulder end of the line segment is discharged to be 1/2 equal parts of the back shoulder province;
5) Taking the left side of a rectangular area between a line segment 1 and a line segment 2 as a drawing chest circumference back piece, the right side as a drawing chest circumference front piece, half of the drawing chest circumference as a width DB of the drawing chest circumference front piece, the other half as a width AB of the drawing chest circumference back piece, wherein the short distance plus half of the long distance of the golden section of the width golden section of the drawing chest circumference front piece, and the width of 1/3 equal divisions E with narrow split doors as a front chest width DE, and the width AB of the drawing chest circumference back piece as twice as a back width AC;
6) After the right end point K of the rear line segment 2 moves upwards by 1/2 equal dividing distance, a front upper flat line MN with the same length as the front drawing chest circumference is arranged at the front sample plate and is marked as a line segment 3;
7) The width NO of the front transverse open collar on the line segment 3 is designed to be 5 and 2/3 equal parts, wherein the width of the split door is 2/3 equal parts, and the longitudinal height NP of the front straight open collar is designed to be 5.5 equal parts;
8) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclined height RS at one end of the line segment 3 is designed to be 9 and 1/3 equally divided, and the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 4 equally divided;
9) The angle bisector passing through by the back armhole arc line of the back piece template is divided equally by 2, and the angle bisector passing through by the front armhole arc line of the front piece template is divided equally by 1 and 2/3;
102 chest provinces BU corresponding to the chest high point BP of the front template are arranged upwards at the middle point B of the chest circumference of the drawing in an equal division way;
11 On the basis of the line segment 1, the short distance of the golden section of the waist pitch length FG after downward movement is set as a waist pitch line FW and is marked as a line segment 4;
12 On the basis of the line segment 4, the distance of downward moving drawing hip height FX is set as a cycloid XY under drawing and is marked as a line segment 5, wherein the height of the drawing hip height FX is a long segment of the rear waist pitch length FG golden section;
13 A width 1 of the back middle waist section is divided into an equal F-24, a width 2 of the back middle waist section is divided into an equal 25-26, a width 2 of the front and back side waist sections is divided into an equal 27-28, and a width 1 of the front middle waist section and a width 2/3 of the front middle waist section is divided into an equal 29-30;
the width of the loss-saving amount of the rear middle lower hem is 1 equal to X-33, the width of the overlapping amount of the rear middle lower hem is 1/4 equal to 34, the width of the overlapping amount of the front and rear side lower hem is 1/3 equal to 35, and the falling of the front middle lower hem is 1/3 equal to Y;
14 A back middle waist-saving part, a front and back side waist-saving part and a front middle waist-saving part are arranged at the waist part between the back piece template and the front piece template; the total area of the loss-saving amounts of the rear middle seam waist province, the rear middle waist province, the front and rear side seam waist provinces, the front middle waist province and the rest blocks is divided by the drawing chest circumference AD to generate a beta amount, and the cycloid XY under the drawing is shifted upwards by the beta amount to obtain the length GZ of the rear middle garment.
The method for manufacturing the sleeve sheet template specifically comprises the following steps:
extending 10 sleeve heights BS1 which are equally designed as sleeve piece templates upwards from the middle point B of the chest circumference of the drawing;
width A of rear sleeve root of sleeve piece template 1 B is 13 equal parts, the width W of the front sleeve root 1 B is 12 equal parts; the waist joint line FW is downwards prolonged by 19 equally-divided sleeve lengths S 1 L 1 Wherein the width C of the cuffs 1 W 2 The front cuff of the cuff was divided into 18 equally divided portions and the width of the front cuff of the cuff was divided into 9 equally divided portions.
Above-mentioned woman's clothing size type national standard "A", its net chest circumference 84 cm + pine 8cm + loss 4 cm, net waistline 66 cm + pine 11 cm, shoulder width 38cm, back midcoat length 56.2, sleeve length 55 cm, cuff 25.4 cm.
Then the model is designed easily and freely depending on the reference diagram, and an ideal new model is changed, see fig. 9-10.
1. And (5) standing a collar. Because the chest circumference of the short shirt is not large, the front and rear total collar length R of the reference diagram is used as a radius to make a circle, two end points of the front collar are connected and extend upwards to round edges to obtain intersection points, the pointing vertical length of the triangle is established to be equal to 4, and the set vertical collar width is approximately equal to 3 (4 cm).
2. The clothes are long. To cater for the example effect graph, the base graph (in the rear) is downscaled upward by 5 equal divisions (7 cm).
3. The front armholes and the rear armholes are broken. The front shoulder province and the back shoulder province are converted into the broken armhole province.
4. Rounded corners of the two sides of the vent. And taking the intersection point of the side seam lower hem as a circle center, and respectively setting circles with radius of 2 equal parts (2.8 cm) and radius of 4 equal parts (4.2 cm).
5. Five rows of decorative buttons on the fly. The right fly has no overlapped fly, and the left fly emits 1-equal overlapped fly as the inner fly.
6. The middle sleeve is externally covered with a loose short sleeve. The long section of the golden section of the reference graph is the attachment length of the middle sleeve, 3 equal divisions are added downwards to achieve the middle sleeve length (38.2 cm) of the graph with the example effect; and then the long section of the middle sleeve long golden section is taken as the attaching length of the externally-lapped loose short sleeve, 3 equal parts are added downwards to achieve the effect of illustration, the externally-lapped loose short sleeve length (25.2 cm) is shown, and the front and rear parts of the cuffs are respectively opened 3 equal parts to form wide loose mouths.
7. And (5) sporadic raw auxiliary materials. The fine dried noodles, the side vent patches and the like are configured according to the conventional method.
The finished new specifications are that the practical chest circumference of the embodiment effect diagram is 92cm, the shoulder width is 38cm, the length of the rear middle coat is 49.2cm, the length of the middle sleeve is 38.2cm, and the cuff is 28.6cm; the length of the loose short sleeve is 25.2 cm, and the cuffs are 43.8 cm.
The chest circumference value of the invention realizes the overall isocratic of the structural design, does not memorize the basic data size, and equally designs the novel modeling key points by using the chest circumference value. The female clothing size-type national standard is followed, the data distribution of the provinces and the provinces is changed totally and is troublesome to the utmost because of different specifications, and the provinces are used for equally distributing each province to eliminate the memory data size. How much does a four-bodied lady garment length match for a known chest circumference? The image-text combination of the invention gives out scientific conclusion.
In order to meet the natural law, namely the golden ratio, and solve the specific technical problems of clothing industry in human production and life, the application patent of the golden ratio is taught to process integrity, scientificity is shown, step contents are greatly increased, related drawings are on A4 paper, the parts of the parts need to be partially enlarged, in practice, the clothing structural design drawing is 1 to 1, and manual or clothing CAD software drawing is adopted, so that the theory of the partially enlarged drawing is avoided. The figure 5 and figure 7 (which are marked by the long section, the short section and the equal division marks instead of the size of the parts and the text description) are directly adjusted into the figure 5 and figure 7 which are combined with each other in clinic, the clothing CAD software is conveniently and quickly used for zooming into a reference frame diagram meeting the chest circumference specification, and then the design of the desired detailed structural modeling is completed according to the style.
People recognize that the European and American persons are high and large in golden ratio, the golden ratio is not limited by factors such as age, ethnicity and region, small and exquisite small and small persons and large persons and medium persons conform to the golden ratio, the people taking care of the shapes and the shapes of the eyes include the majority of children approaching the golden ratio, and the people are provided with multi-grade size codes corresponding. The characteristic of the golden proportion of the human body is given to the nature, and the nature is naturally restricted by a plurality of factors in the life and growth process, so that sporadic specialization appears, and the nature is also designed in a changing way on the basis of the model without symptoms. Industrial mass production is a model which is required to be standard in points, lines and surfaces, and most of the defects of the body are covered by detailed design and setting off of clothing accessories, so that the dressing of most people is satisfied.
The technical scheme of the invention is not only used for normal bodies, but also is applicable to special bodies such as Y type, B type, C type, D type and the like, namely the percentage change data between the pushing-out of the chest circumference, waistline, trouser length and the like of the reference graph, and has infinite scientific application potential. The clothing is cut to measure, fat people are contraindicated to make very fat, thin people are made very thin, so that the constant amount seems to be possible from the technical point of view, and natural (artistic) aesthetic factors are lacked.
The above-described embodiments are merely illustrative of the preferred embodiments of the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, and various modifications and improvements made by those skilled in the art to the technical solution of the present invention should fall within the scope of protection defined by the claims of the present invention without departing from the spirit of the present invention.
Claims (8)
1. A four-piece female dress-type template in golden ratio, which is characterized in that:
a front middle panel (101) and a front side panel (102) comprising a front panel template (100), a rear middle panel (201) and a rear side panel (202) comprising a rear panel template (200), and a sleeve panel template (300) between the front panel template and the rear panel template;
the front piece template (100) comprises a drawing chest circumference front piece (110), a drawing waistline front piece (120) and a lower hem front piece (130) which extend downwards from a shoulder in sequence, one side of the sleeve piece template (300) facing the drawing chest circumference front piece is a door front piece (140), the rear piece template comprises a drawing chest circumference rear piece (210), a drawing waistline rear piece (220) and a lower hem rear piece (230) which extend downwards from the shoulder in sequence, and one side of the sleeve piece template facing the drawing chest circumference rear piece is a door rear piece (240);
the width (DB) of the front piece of the drawing chest circumference and the width (AB) of the rear piece of the drawing chest circumference are half of the basic line of the drawing chest circumference, the short distance of the golden section of the width of the front piece of the drawing chest circumference is half of the long distance, the width of 1/3 equal parts (E) with narrow splitting doors is the front chest width (DE), and the width (AB) of the rear piece of the drawing chest circumference is twice of the short distance of the golden section of the rear width (AC);
the length (FG) of the back waist section of the back plate is twice the back width (AC), and the long section of the golden section of the back waist section length (FG) is positioned on the chest circumference deep line (AG) of the back plate;
the width of a rear upper flat line (HK) of the rear piece template is equal to the width of a drawing chest circumference rear piece, the rear shoulder width (HJ) is divided into 1/2 equal parts by the rear shoulder width (AC), the width (HI) of a rear transverse open collar on the rear upper flat line (HK) is divided into 5 equal parts, the longitudinal height (GH) of a rear straight open collar of the rear piece template is divided into 1 equal part and 2/3 equal parts, and the small shoulder width (IJ) on the rear upper flat line (HK) is divided into 8.5 equal parts by the equal parts, and the equal parts are divided into 1/34 of the drawing waistline width;
the transverse width of the vertical angle of the rear shoulder inclined height (JL) of the rear plate sample plate is 8.5 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is 3 equal parts, and the outer shoulder end of the vertical angle is discharged to save 1/2 equal parts of the rear shoulder;
the front upper flat line (MN) of the front piece template is shifted upwards by 1/2 equal parts than the rear upper flat line (HK), and the width of the front upper flat line (MN) is equal to the width of the drawing chest circumference front piece;
the width (NO) of the front transverse opening collar on the front upper flat line (MN) is 5 and 2/3 equal parts, wherein the width of the split door is 2/3 equal parts, and the longitudinal height (NP) of the front straight opening collar of the front piece template is 5.5 equal parts;
the transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclined height (RS) of the front piece template is equal to 9 and 1/3, and the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is equal to 4;
the chest high point (BP) of the front template corresponds to the chest circumference midpoint (B) of the drawing and is divided into 2 equal chest provinces (BU) upwards;
2 perpendicular bisectors passing through the rear armhole arc of the rear piece template are equally divided, and 1 perpendicular bisector passing through the front armhole arc of the front piece template is equally divided by 2/3;
the distance from the waist pitch line (FW) of the front and back template to the hypocycloid (XY) is the length of the golden section of the back waist pitch length (FG).
2. A golden ratio four-bodice women's dress form according to claim 1, wherein:
the sleeve peak height (BS 1) of the sleeve sheet template is 10 equal parts upwards extended from the middle point (B) of the chest circumference of the drawing;
the width (A) of the rear sleeve root of the sleeve plate sample plate 1 B) Is divided into 13 equal parts, and the width (W 1 B) Is divided into 12 equal parts; the waist section line (FW) is extended downwards by 19 equally divided sleeve lengths (S 1 L 1 ) Wherein the width of the cuff (C 1 W 2 ) The front cuff of the cuff was divided into 18 equally divided portions and the width of the front cuff of the cuff was divided into 9 equally divided portions.
3. A golden ratio four-bodice women's dress form according to claim 1, wherein:
the width (BE) of the front sheet (140) of the door of the said gallery is the width (DB) of the front sheet of the chest girth of the drawing minus the width (DE) of the chest, the arc line that the horizontal and vertical intersection of the door of the gallery connects is divided through its perpendicular angle bisector 1 and 2/3 equally;
the width of the back sheet (240) of the door of the hole is the width (AB) of the back sheet of the chest circumference of the drawing minus the width (AC) of the back, and the arc line which is connected by the transverse and vertical intersection of the door of the hole passes through the end points of 2 equally divided perpendicular bisectors of the perpendicular angle bisectors of the door of the hole.
4. A golden ratio four-bodice suit-style template according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterised in that:
the waist part between the rear piece template and the front piece template is provided with a rear middle waist section, a front and rear side waist section and a front middle waist section;
the width of the back middle seam waist is 1 equal division, the width of the back middle waist is 2 equal division, the width of the front and back side seam waist is 2 equal division, and the width of the front middle waist is 1 and 2/3 equal division.
5. A golden ratio four-bodice women's dress form according to claim 4 wherein:
and dividing half of the total area of the loss-saving amounts of the rear middle seam waist province, the rear middle waist province, the front and rear side seam waist provinces, the front middle waist province and the residual blocks by a drawing chest circumference basic line to generate a beta amount, and translating a drawing lower cycloid (XY) upwards by the beta amount to obtain a rear middle coat length (GZ).
6. The four-opening women's dress comprises a front middle clothes piece, a front side clothes piece, a rear middle clothes piece and a rear side clothes piece which are symmetrically spliced, wherein sleeve holes of the front side clothes piece and the rear side clothes piece are provided with sleeve pieces.
7. The four-opening female board making method is characterized by comprising the following steps:
1) Drawing a drawing chest circumference basic line (AD), and marking as a line segment 1;
2) Designing a half of a back waist pitch length (FG) of the back panel to be a back width (AC), wherein a long section of the golden section of the back waist pitch length (FG) is located at a back chest circumference depth line (AG);
3) On the basis of the line segment 1, the distance of the long segment of the back waist length (FG) golden section and the longitudinal height (GH) of the back straight open collar is set as a back upper flat line (HK) and is recorded as a line segment 2;
the width of the line segment 2 is designed to be the width of a back piece of the drawing chest circumference, the back shoulder width (HJ) on the line segment 2 is designed to be the back width (AC) plus 1/2 of the bisection, the width (HI) of the back transverse open collar on the line segment 2 is designed to be 5 of the bisection, the small shoulder width (IJ) on the line segment 2 is designed to be 8.5 of the bisection, and the longitudinal height (GH) of the back straight open collar is designed to be 1 and 2/3 of the bisection, and the bisection is 1/34 of the drawing waistline width;
4) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the back shoulder inclined height (JL) at one end of the line segment 2 is designed to be 8.5 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 3 equal parts, and the outer shoulder end of the line segment is discharged to be 1/2 equal parts of the back shoulder province;
5) Taking the left side of a rectangular area between a line segment 1 and a line segment 2 as a drawing chest circumference back piece, the right side as a drawing chest circumference front piece, half of a drawing chest circumference basic line as the width (DB) of the drawing chest circumference front piece, the other half as the width (AB) of the drawing chest circumference back piece, the short distance of the golden section of the width of the drawing chest circumference front piece plus half of the long distance, and the width of 1/3 equal parts (E) with narrow split doors as the front chest width (DE), and the width (AB) of the drawing chest circumference back piece as the double of the short distance of the golden section of the back width (AC);
6) After the right end point (K) of the rear line segment 2 moves upwards by 1/2 equal dividing distance, a front upper flat line (MN) with the same length as that of the drawing chest circumference front piece is arranged at the front piece sample plate and is marked as a line segment 3;
7) The width (NO) of the front transverse opening collar on the line segment 3 is designed to be 5 and 2/3 equal parts, wherein the width of the split door is 2/3 equal parts, and the longitudinal height (NP) of the front straight opening collar is designed to be 5.5 equal parts;
8) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclined height (RS) at one end of the line segment 3 is designed to be 9 and 1/3 equally divided, and the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 4 equally divided;
9) The angle bisector passing through by the back armhole arc line of the back piece template is divided equally by 2, and the angle bisector passing through by the front armhole arc line of the front piece template is divided equally by 1 and 2/3;
102 chest provinces (BU) corresponding to the chest high points (BP) of the front template are equally arranged upwards at the middle point (B) of the chest circumference of the drawing;
11 On the basis of the line segment 1, the short distance of the golden section of the waist pitch length (FG) after downward movement is set as a waist pitch line (FW), and is marked as a line segment 4;
12 On the basis of the line segment 4, the distance of downward movement of the drawing hip height (FX) is set as a drawing hypocycloid (XY), denoted as a line segment 5, wherein the height of the drawing hip height (FX) is the long segment of the rear waist pitch length (FG) golden section;
13 A back middle waist-saving part, a front and back side waist-saving part and a front middle waist-saving part are arranged at the waist part between the back piece template and the front piece template; the total area of the loss-saving amounts of the rear middle seam waist province, the rear middle waist province, the front and rear side seam waist provinces, the front middle waist province and the rest blocks is divided by a drawing chest circumference foundation line (AD) to generate a beta amount, and a drawing lower cycloid (XY) is shifted upwards by the beta amount to obtain a rear midcoat length (GZ).
8. A four-bladed female garment board method as in claim 7, further comprising a sleeve panel template making method of:
extending the middle point (B) of the chest circumference of the drawing upwards by 10 pieces to form a sleeve peak height (BS 1) of a sleeve template;
the width (A) of the rear sleeve root of the sleeve plate sample plate 1 B) Is divided into 13 equal parts, and the width (W 1 B) Is divided into 12 equal parts; the waist section line (FW) is extended downwards by 19 equally divided sleeve lengths (S 1 L 1 ) Wherein the width of the cuff (C 1 W 2 ) The front cuff of the cuff was divided into 18 equally divided portions and the width of the front cuff of the cuff was divided into 9 equally divided portions.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN2018113277909 | 2018-11-06 | ||
| CN201811327790 | 2018-11-06 |
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| CN201911078253.XA Active CN110664039B (en) | 2018-11-06 | 2019-11-06 | Four-quarter female dress type template in golden proportion and four-quarter female dress and plate making method |
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| CN211558930U (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2020-09-25 | 许宗保 | Golden proportion four-body women's clothes type sample plate and four-body women's clothes |
| CN112741379B (en) * | 2020-12-31 | 2022-04-22 | 浙江乔治白服饰股份有限公司 | Method for manufacturing suit of shoulder peak and chest height area flat suit |
| CN113057391B (en) * | 2021-03-31 | 2023-01-24 | 黎明职业大学 | Method for manufacturing Huoding-Po clothing |
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| CN110664039A (en) | 2020-01-10 |
| CN211558930U (en) | 2020-09-25 |
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