CN112741379B

CN112741379B - Method for manufacturing suit of shoulder peak and chest height area flat suit

Info

Publication number: CN112741379B
Application number: CN202011644947.8A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 黄益品; 金先芝; 池也; 肖友烤; 程昌云; 刘荣清; 罗经刚
Original assignee: Zhejiang Giuseppe Garment Co ltd
Current assignee: Zhejiang Giuseppe Garment Co ltd
Priority date: 2020-12-31
Filing date: 2020-12-31
Publication date: 2022-04-22
Anticipated expiration: 2040-12-31
Also published as: CN112741379A; CN114617314B; CN114617314A

Abstract

The application provides a suit manufacturing method of shoulder peak and chest height area flat clothes, which relates to the technical field of clothing manufacturing and comprises the steps of determining a structure sample plate, wherein the structure sample plate at least comprises a front shoulder line, a modeling division line and a chest height point which are calculated according to style and human body size, and the modeling division line is a connecting line of a modeling tangent point and the chest height point; shortening the length of the modeling dividing line by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm; pulling out 0.2 cm-0.3 cm from the position 4 cm-4.5 cm below the shoulder end point of the front shoulder line, pulling out 0.5 cm-0.6 cm from the position 2 cm-2.5 cm away from the neck shoulder point of the front shoulder line, and unfolding 0.3 cm-0.35 cm from the chest width position of the front sleeve cage. The structure template is combined with the process treatment, the molding parting line is determined according to different shapes, the length of the molding parting line is shortened, the clothes in the chest region are leveled, the clothes in the chest wide range region are smooth and conformable, and the phenomena of sinking and hollowing of the clothes in the chest are improved.

Description

Method for manufacturing suit of shoulder peak and chest height area flat suit

Technical Field

The application relates to the technical field of clothing manufacturing, in particular to a method for manufacturing a suit of a shoulder peak and chest height area flat suit.

Background

Because the shoulders of the human body are in an arc shape, a depression is formed between the shoulder peak and the chest high point area, the area is not attached and is not empty, and the shoulder peak and the chest high point are protruded, so that the shoulder head of the female western-style clothes is tight, the chest is empty, and the integral attractiveness of the clothes is affected.

Disclosure of Invention

The embodiment of the application aims to provide a method for manufacturing a suit with a flat shoulder and chest height area, which can improve the phenomena of empty and unfastened chest of a female suit and improve the attractiveness of the suit.

In one aspect of the embodiment of the application, a method for manufacturing a suit of a shoulder peak and chest height area flat suit is provided, and the method comprises the steps of determining a structure sample plate, wherein the structure sample plate at least comprises a front shoulder line, a modeling division line and a chest height point which are calculated according to style and human body size, and the modeling division line is a connecting line of a modeling tangent point and the chest height point; shortening the length of the modeling dividing line to the chest height point by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm; pulling out the position 4-4.5 cm below the shoulder end point of the front shoulder line by 0.2-0.3cm, pulling out the position 2-2.5 cm away from the neck shoulder point of the front shoulder line by 0.5-0.6 cm, and unfolding the chest width position of the front sleeve cage by 0.3-0.35 cm.

Optionally, the determining a structure template, wherein the structure template at least includes a front shoulder line, a sculpting line and a chest height point calculated according to style and body size, and the sculpting line is a connecting line of a sculpting tangent point and the chest height point includes: making the modeling parting line by taking the front armhole as the modeling tangent point; and (4) performing segmentation at the armhole, wherein the modeling segmentation line passes through the chest height point by 1.5 cm-1.6 cm.

Optionally, shortening the length of the contouring parting line by 0.2cm to 0.3cm toward the chest height point comprises: shortening the extension line of the front back of the knife close to the armhole by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm; sewing the back of the front knife 3.5-3.0 cm away from the position of the armhole, making an auxiliary line, and unfolding the auxiliary line at the position of the armhole by 0.1-0.15 cm; punching an alignment knife eye, punching a knife eye at the distance of 1.0-1.5 cm between the two knife backs of the armhole, and pulling out a front knife gap of 0.2-0.3 cm; according to the structure of a human body, the front shoulder seam is 3.0cm to 3.5cm away from the end point of the shoulder, and the outer arc bulge is 0.3cm to 0.35 cm.

Optionally, pulling out a position 4cm to 4.5cm below the shoulder end point of the front shoulder line by 0.2cm to 0.3cm, pulling out a position 2cm to 2.5cm away from the neck shoulder point of the front shoulder line by 0.5cm to 0.6cm, and unfolding a chest width position of the front sleeve cage by 0.3cm to 0.35cm comprises: through process treatment, the distance between the armhole and the shoulder end point is 4.0-4.5 cm, the armhole is pulled out by 0.2-0.3cm, the armhole stretch is drawn horizontally, the distance between the shoulder seam and the shoulder end point is 2-2.5 cm, the distance between the shoulder seam and the shoulder end point is 0.2-0.25 cm, and the distance between the shoulder seam and the collar shoulder point is 2-2.5 cm, the distance between the shoulder seam and the collar shoulder point is 0.5-0.6 cm.

Optionally, the position 4cm to 4.5cm below the shoulder end point of the front shoulder line is pulled out by 0.2cm to 0.3cm, the position 2cm to 2.5cm away from the neck shoulder point of the front shoulder line is pulled out by 0.5cm to 0.6cm, and the chest width position of the front sleeve cage is unfolded by 0.3cm to 0.35cm, and the method further comprises: the eating vigor of the front sleeve mountain is increased by 0.5 cm-0.6 cm.

Optionally, the determining a structure template, wherein the structure template at least includes a front shoulder line, a sculpting line and a chest height point calculated according to style and body size, and the sculpting line is a connecting line of a sculpting tangent point and the chest height point includes: making the modeling parting line by taking the front shoulder seam as the modeling tangent point; and cutting the part 4.0-4.5 cm away from the shoulder point, wherein the modeling cutting line passes through the chest height point by 1.5-1.6 cm.

Optionally, shortening the length of the contouring parting line by 0.2cm to 0.3cm toward the chest height point comprises: making an auxiliary line 6-6.5 cm away from the shoulder seam, unfolding the armhole at the auxiliary line by 0.2-0.3cm, and folding the armhole at the shoulder seam by 0.2-0.3 cm; aligning a knife eye, keeping the distance between the knife eye and the shoulder seam at 5.0-5.5 cm, and pulling out a small piece of the knife eye through the shoulder at 0.2-0.3 cm; according to the structure of a human body, the front shoulder seam is 3.0 cm-3.5 cm away from the shoulder end point, and the outer arc bulge is 0.3 cm-0.35 cm.

Optionally, pulling out a position 4cm to 4.5cm below the shoulder end point of the front shoulder line by 0.2cm to 0.3cm, pulling out a position 2cm to 2.5cm away from the neck shoulder point of the front shoulder line by 0.5cm to 0.6cm, and unfolding a chest width position of the front sleeve cage by 0.3cm to 0.35cm comprises: the process treatment comprises that the distance between the armhole and the shoulder end point is 4.0-4.5 cm, the armhole is pulled out by 0.2-0.3cm, the armhole stretch is horizontally pulled, the position of the shoulder seam, which is 2-2.5 cm away from the shoulder end point, is pulled in by 0.2-0.25 cm, and the position of the shoulder seam, which is 2-2.5 cm away from the neck shoulder point, is pulled out by 0.5-0.6 cm.

Optionally, the position 4cm to 4.5cm below the shoulder end point of the front shoulder line is pulled out by 0.2cm to 0.3cm, the position 2cm to 2.5cm away from the neck shoulder point of the front shoulder line is pulled out by 0.5cm to 0.6cm, and the chest width position of the front sleeve cage is unfolded by 0.3cm to 0.35cm, and the method further comprises: the eating vigor of the front sleeve mountain is increased by 0.4 cm-0.5 cm.

According to the manufacturing method of the suit for the flat suit in the acromion and chest height areas, provided by the embodiment of the application, by a method of combining a structure sample plate with process treatment, a modeling division line is determined according to different modeling, the length of the modeling division line is shortened to the chest height point by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm, so as to flatten the clothing in the chest front area, the position 4 cm-4.5 cm below the shoulder end point of the front shoulder line is pulled out by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm, the position 2 cm-2.5 cm away from the neck shoulder point of the front shoulder line is pulled out by 0.5 cm-0.6 cm, the chest width position of the front sleeve cage is expanded by 0.3 cm-0.35 cm, so that the clothing in the chest width area is flat and fit, the phenomena of sinking and hollowing of the chest clothing are improved, and the overall attractiveness of the suit is improved.

Drawings

In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present application, the drawings that are required to be used in the embodiments of the present application will be briefly described below, it should be understood that the following drawings only illustrate some embodiments of the present application and therefore should not be considered as limiting the scope, and that those skilled in the art can also obtain other related drawings based on the drawings without inventive efforts.

FIG. 1 is one of the human body structures;

FIG. 2 is a second human body structure diagram;

FIG. 3 is a schematic flow chart of a method for manufacturing a suit for a flat suit in the shoulder and chest height areas according to this embodiment;

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of a sculpted women's western-style clothes with a knife back according to the embodiment;

FIG. 5 is a schematic view illustrating a manufacturing process of a blade-back type suit for women in this embodiment;

FIG. 6 is a schematic view of a princess seam-type suit for women in a form of a suit according to the present embodiment;

FIG. 7 is a schematic view of a princess seam-type suit for women of this embodiment;

FIG. 8 is a second schematic flow chart of the method for making a suit for a flat suit in the shoulder and chest height areas according to this embodiment;

FIG. 9 is a schematic view of the one-piece suit of the present embodiment;

fig. 10 is a schematic view of a structure of a one-piece suit for women according to this embodiment.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present application will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present application.

In the description of the present application, it should be noted that the terms "inside", "outside", and the like indicate orientations or positional relationships based on the orientations or positional relationships shown in the drawings or orientations or positional relationships that the products of the application usually place when using, and are only used for convenience in describing the present application and simplifying the description, but do not indicate or imply that the devices or elements that are referred to must have a specific orientation, be constructed in a specific orientation, and operate, and thus, should not be construed as limiting the present application. Furthermore, the terms "first," "second," and the like are used merely to distinguish one description from another, and are not to be construed as indicating or implying relative importance.

It should also be noted that, unless expressly stated or limited otherwise, the terms "disposed" and "connected" are to be construed broadly, e.g., as meaning fixedly connected, detachably connected, or integrally connected; they may be connected directly or indirectly through intervening media, or they may be interconnected between two elements. The specific meaning of the above terms in the present application can be understood in a specific case by those of ordinary skill in the art.

The phenomenon that the shoulder and the head of the female suit are tight and the chest is empty is often caused by the fact that the chest of a human body is not attached and empty, even the shoulder and the chest are protruded, and the integral attractiveness of the suit is affected. In order to solve the problem that the chest and the shoulder of a woman suit are obliquely tightened and hollowed when the woman suit is worn, the suit is enabled to be more fit with the body of a human body, the attractiveness of the suit and the market competitiveness of the suit are improved, the embodiment of the application provides a manufacturing method of a flat suit with shoulder peaks and chest height areas, the phenomena that the chest of the woman suit is hollowed and not fitted can be improved, and the attractiveness of the suit is improved.

The average data of the human body is acquired in the early stage, and the manufacturing method of the suit suitable for different human bodies is obtained through the human body data with different heights and weights.

Specifically, as shown in fig. 1, human body data are collected, the data of the tested person are recorded, the data of the tested person are compared and analyzed, and the relation between the human body area C, the distance from the shoulder point to the point a and the chest height point is found out. The tested persons are 22-30 years old women, and the measuring tools comprise a flexible rule, a set square and a straight rule. Since the experimental data is used for analyzing the acquisition conditions of the protrusion and the vacancy of the arm bar, the body types of the flat shoulder, the smooth shoulder, the high shoulder, the low shoulder and the impact shoulder are remarked, and only the one with the most obvious characteristic is remarked.

(1) The depressed area is "C", the bone from the acromion to the protuberance of the arm lesser tubercle is "A", and the point of chest height is "B".

(2) As shown in FIG. 2, A, B is used as two end points, and a straight line is drawn through the two end points to measure the amount of C vertically.

The human body data of 7 testees are collected altogether, choose for use the height size all different, except special size, do not do test analysis outside being out of the chest, towards the shoulder, containing the chest, these 7 data include the short fat body, thin body, have normal body etc. possess the just right nature of analysis, almost included the research meaning of all types of experiments. The following is a comparison of the mean of the variances of the measured values in 7 cases.

Unit of cm

Person under measurement	Specification of	Distance from acromion to A	Chest high point	Chest distance	Amount of C
						001	158/88A	4	24.5	17.5	0.9
002	158/80A	4	22.5	15	0.8
						003	158/78A	4	24	16	1.2
004	165/81A	4.5	25	16	0.9
						005	165/88A	4	24.5	18	0.7
006	165/84A	4	24	16.5	0.9
						007	158/86A	4	24	17	0.9

The distance from the shoulder peak of the tested person to the point A of the standard body with different heights and body types is 4.0cm, and the measured value of the C amount has small difference, so that the average value of the C is 0.9 cm.

The common styles of the female western-style clothes comprise a knife back seam style, a princess seam style and a one-piece waist saving structure, and the three styles are very wide and typical in use. In the experimental process, the sample plate, the process, the fabric and the like are found to be inseparable. This can not be solved by using a template process entirely, and a template structure and process combined method is required. Wherein the one-piece waist province structure can only be solved by adopting process treatment. These three typical patterns were selected below for experimental studies.

Specifically, as shown in fig. 3, an embodiment of the present application provides a method for manufacturing a suit that is flat-dressed in a acromion and chest height area, including:

s100: and determining a structure sample plate, wherein the structure sample plate at least comprises a front shoulder line, a modeling division line and a chest height point which are calculated according to the style and the human body size, and the modeling division line is a connecting line of a modeling tangent point and the chest height point.

And calculating the positions of the front shoulder line, the modeling dividing line and the chest height point according to different styles and models and the sizes of human bodies with different heights and weights so as to determine the structural template.

For example, in the case of a knife-back type western-style maiden suit structure, as shown in fig. 4, the shape tangent point is the front armhole, and the shape dividing line is the connecting line between the front armhole and the chest height point, which is the DE line in fig. 4. Then, the armhole is divided, so that the modeling dividing line passes through the chest height point of 1.5 cm-1.6 cm, and the chest height point is the BP point in the figure 5.

Furthermore, the chest omission is changed to the division by the omission. Finally, two tool eyes are arranged at two ends of the position, about 8.5cm away from the BP point, of the knife back seam (the straight line where Q1P1 is located in fig. 5 is the knife back seam, and Q1P1 is the modeling dividing line), and the position of the contraposition draft R is about 0.3 cm.

Wherein Q1H is the upper section of the armhole, the arc line of Q2K1 is the lower end of the armhole, the point H is the shoulder end point H, and the straight line of HFG is the front shoulder line.

For the princess seam type suit structure, the shape tangent point is the front shoulder seam, as shown in fig. 6, the shape dividing line is the connecting line between the front shoulder seam and the chest height point, i.e. the DE line in fig. 6. And (3) making a modeling division line at a position 4.0cm away from the shoulder point, wherein the modeling division line passes through the chest height point by 1.5 cm-1.6 cm, and the chest height point is the BP point in the graph 7.

The thoracic province is transferred to the division by transferring the province. Finally, two knife eyes are arranged at the upper end and the lower end of the knife back seam which is about 8.5cm away from the BP point, and the position of the counterpoint draft R1 is about 0.3 cm.

Wherein, the modeling dividing line is an arc line where L2L3 is located, HF1 is a front shoulder line, and H is a shoulder endpoint H.

The concrete modeling is different, and the modeling parting line is different.

In addition to identifying the aforementioned anterior shoulder line, contour line and chest height point, other conventional dimensions are determined for a particular contour to define a structural template. The conventional dimensions are conventionally set and will not be described in detail herein.

S110: the length of the modeling dividing line is shortened to 0.2 cm-0.3 cm towards the chest height point.

After the modeling dividing line is determined, the length of the modeling dividing line is shortened by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm towards the direction of the chest height point, the modeling dividing line is a connecting line between the chest height point and the modeling tangent point, and when the modeling dividing line is shortened, the situation that after the clothes are worn, the clothes in the chest area are tensioned can be understood, the clothes in the chest are smooth and fit, and the phenomena that the clothes in the chest are sunken and empty are improved.

Specifically, as shown in fig. 5, for the knifeback type suit structure, the shape dividing line is the connecting line between the front sleeve cage and the chest high point, so that after the change, the extension line of the front knifeback line close to the sleeve cage is shortened by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm. Namely, the Q1 point is prolonged to be 0.2 cm-0.3 cm, on one hand, the armhole is lengthened, and on the other hand, the knife back seam (front knife back line) is shortened by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm.

Then the back of the front knife is sewed to be 3.5 cm-3.0 cm away from the position of the armhole, an auxiliary line K1K2 is made, and K1 is unfolded at the position of the armhole at the auxiliary line to be 0.1 cm-0.15 cm.

And drawing the armhole in a smooth manner, and paying attention to an arc line which is concave inwards and cannot be drawn too smoothly after the knife back seam is unfolded.

And (3) punching the contraposition knife eyes, punching a knife eye P1 or Q1 at the distance of 1.0-1.5 cm between the two knife backs and the armhole, and pulling out the front knife seam M by 0.2-0.3 cm. The function of pulling out is that the chest is in a natural concave state, and the armhole is large enough not to be pulled when the human body moves.

According to the structure of a human body, the front shoulder seam is 3.0 cm-3.5 cm away from the shoulder end point H, and the outer arc bulge is 0.3 cm-0.35 cm.

As for the structure of princess seam type suit for women, as shown in figure 7, the parting line is the connecting line between the front shoulder seam and the chest high point, therefore, after the dart is transferred, the distance between the front shoulder seam and the chest high point is 6cm to 6.5cm, an auxiliary line L1L2 is made, the auxiliary line L1 is unfolded at the armhole position of 0.2cm to 0.3cm, and the part L2 below the shoulder seam is folded at the position of 0.2cm to 0.3 cm.

The folding reason is that after turning over and saving, the shoulder seam becomes oblique, and the sewing course is easy to elongate, and the other reason is that the chest can be sunken after being pulled out. It should be noted that it cannot be drawn too smoothly, concave, through an arc.

And (4) punching an alignment knife eye, wherein the distance between the alignment knife eye and the lower part of the shoulder seam is 5.0-5.5 cm, and the distance between the alignment knife eye and the lower part of the shoulder seam is 0.2-0.3 cm. Or the flat walking treatment is carried out in sewing due to the fact that oblique lines are pulled.

S120: pulling out the position 4-4.5 cm below the shoulder end point H of the front shoulder line by 0.2-0.3cm, pulling out the position 2-2.5 cm away from the neck shoulder point H1 of the front shoulder line by 0.5-0.6 cm, and unfolding the chest width position of the front sleeve cage by 0.3-0.35 cm.

For the structure of the knifeback type suit for women, the process treatment is carried out, namely when the subsequent clothes are sewn, the distance between the armhole and the shoulder end point H is 4.0 cm-4.5 cm, the J position is pulled out by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm, the armhole pulling strip at the N position is pulled flat, the F position of the shoulder seam, which is 2 cm-2.5 cm away from the shoulder end point H, is drawn together by 0.2 cm-0.25 cm, and the G position of the shoulder seam, which is 2 cm-2.5 cm away from the neck shoulder point H1, is pulled out by 0.5 cm-0.6 cm.

For the princess seam type suit structure, the sewing process is that the distance between the armholes and the shoulder point H is 4.0 cm-4.5 cm, the J1 is pulled out by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm, the armhole draw bar at the N1 is pulled flat, the F1 position of the shoulder seam, which is 2 cm-2.5 cm away from the right of the shoulder point H, is drawn together by 0.2 cm-0.25 cm, and the G1 position of the shoulder seam, which is 2 cm-2.5 cm away from the right of the neck shoulder point H1, is pulled out by 0.5 cm-0.6 cm.

S130: the eating vigor of the front sleeve mountain is increased by 0.4 cm-0.6 cm.

For the structure of the knifeback type suit for women, armholes of the body are increased by 0.5 cm-0.6 cm in total according to the steps, so that the eating vigor of the front sleeves needs to be increased by 0.5 cm-0.6 cm at the same time when the sleeves are drawn, and the situation that the eating vigor of the sleeves is insufficient is avoided.

For the princess seam type suit structure, the body armholes are increased by 0.4 cm-0.5 cm in total according to the steps, so that the front sleeve mountain eating vigor is increased by 0.4 cm-0.5 cm at the same time when the sleeves are drawn, and the sleeves are prevented from being insufficiently eaten.

The suit manufacturing method of the shoulder peak and chest height area flat suit provided by the embodiment of the application can be suitable for manufacturing knife-back type suit-dress and princess sewing suit-dress, the method of combining the structure sample plate and the process treatment is adopted, the modeling division line is determined according to different modeling, the length of the modeling division line is shortened by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm, so as to flatten the clothing material in the chest area, the position 4 cm-4.5 cm below the shoulder end point H of the front shoulder line is pulled out by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm, the position 2 cm-2.5 cm away from the neck shoulder point H1 of the front shoulder line is pulled out by 0.5 cm-0.6 cm, so that the clothing material in the chest wide area is smooth and fitted, the phenomenon that the clothing material is sunken and empty in the chest is improved, and the integral attractiveness of the suit is improved.

For one-piece structured western-style clothes, the one-piece structure belonging to waist province is a typical representation, and the analysis of the structure of the waist province is that the waist province is shaped under the chest height point, the most concave part of the front waist is processed for the waist province, the side seam province of the front clothes body can be transferred to the waist province, and lines are drawn in the same direction.

Through experimental analysis, no division exists between the chest and the shoulder of the lumbar region structure, the trial graph is divided by a transverse auxiliary line forcibly at the chest width, the intersection point of the transverse auxiliary line and the turning line is a central point, the armhole is unfolded by 0.2cm, the folding of the overlap line is about 0.4cm, and the operation method has the defects of lifting in the middle before the seam allowance is stirred and the turning line is empty. Multiple experiments prove that the chest and shoulder part non-segmentation is structurally difficult to solve and can only be finished through the technical reduction and extraction treatment.

Specifically, as shown in fig. 8, the method for manufacturing a suit of a flat suit in a shoulder peak and chest height area provided in the embodiment of the present application includes:

s200: and (4) calculating and determining the size of the suit according to the style and the size of the human body.

A standard model 160/84A is adopted, the height of the chest is set to be 24.5cm, BP is set to be 9.0cm, and the province is set to be 3.0 cm.

S210: the shoulder seam is drawn up to 0.2 cm-0.25 cm at a distance of 2 cm-2.5 cm from the H point of the shoulder end point, and the shoulder seam is pulled out at a distance of 0.5 cm-0.6 cm from the H1 point at a distance of 2 cm-2.5 cm from the neck shoulder point.

The shoulder point H is the point H, the right 2 cm-2.5 cm of the point H, the point F2 is gathered together by 0.2 cm-0.25 cm, the neck shoulder point H1 is the point H1, and the point G2 which is 2 cm-2.5 cm of the point H1 is pulled out by 0.5 cm-0.6 cm.

S220: the distance between the armhole and the H point of the shoulder end point is 4.0 cm-4.5 cm, the pulling-out is 0.2 cm-0.3 cm at the chest width position, and the armhole stretch is pulled horizontally.

0.2 cm-0.3 cm pulled out at the J2 position, and 0.2 cm-0.3 cm pulled out at the S2 position.

And S230, drawing the sleeves, and increasing the eating vigor of the front sleeves by 0.4-0.5 cm.

When the sleeves are used for drawing, the eating vigor of the front sleeves needs to be increased to the amount of pulling the body so as to avoid the insufficient eating vigor of the sleeves.

The suit manufacturing method of the flat suit in the acromion and chest height area provided by the embodiment of the application can also be processed by a single process, and the suit can be gathered by 0.2 cm-0.25 cm at the position of a shoulder seam which is 2 cm-2.5 cm away from a shoulder end point H2cm, pulled by 0.5 cm-0.6 cm at the position of a shoulder seam which is 2 cm-2.5 cm away from a neck shoulder point H1, pulled by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm at a chest width position, and pulled by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm at a muff which is 4.0 cm-4.5 cm away from a shoulder end point H4.3 cm, and pulled by a stretching bar to improve the phenomena of sinking and hollowing of the chest cloth, so that the cloth in the chest width area is flat and fitted, and the integral attractiveness of the suit is improved.

The method of making is described in detail below by way of three examples of different types of western-style clothes:

a flat clothing processing method of a knife back type suit structure comprises the following steps:

the back of the knife is divided to belong to the model dividing line, the front sleeve cage tangent point is selected and respectively connected with the BP point to form the dividing line, the front garment body transfers the side seam province into the sleeve cage province, and the dividing line is drawn along the back of the knife.

Through experimental analysis, the knife back type structure adopts armholes K2 to unfold by 0.1cm, and the extension Q1 point is 0.2cm, so that on one hand, the armholes are lengthened, and on the other hand, the knife back seam is shortened. Finally, the steel is pulled out by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm at about 4.0cm below the H point by combining the process treatment.

(1) A standard model 160/84A is adopted, the height of the chest is set to be 24.5cm, BP is set to be 9.0cm, and the province is set to be 3.0 cm.

Unit: cm

Style

Fabric

Specification of

Front clothes length

Bra

Shoulder width

Cuff

Length of sleeve

Two-buckle knife back

Western-style clothes material

64/88A

64

88

38.5

15.7

57.5

(2) The armhole is divided, a dividing line passes through a BP point by 1.5cm (the thin material of the western-style clothes is 1.5cm as far as possible, is close to the BP, is restricted to 0.3cm in eating tendency control, and is easy to wrinkle and is not flat when the thin material of the western-style clothes is farther from the BP), and the specific dividing requirements are according to styles. The thoracic province is transferred to the division by transferring the province. Finally, two cutter eyes are arranged at the position 8.5cm away from the BP point on the cutter back seam, and the position of the alignment draft R is about 0.3 cm.

(3) After the rotation, the front back line of the knife is shortened by 0.2cm close to the armhole extension line Q1, so that the arc length of the armhole is lengthened, and the amount of dragging caused by the protrusion of the H bone at the shoulder end point is reduced.

(4) The front knife back seam of the small piece is 3.5cm away from the position below the armhole and 3.0cm below the armhole, an auxiliary line K1K2 is made, the position K1 of the armhole is unfolded by 0.1cm, then the armhole is drawn in order, after the knife back seam is unfolded, the line is concave inwards, and the line is an arc line which is concave and cannot be drawn in order.

(5) And (3) forming an alignment knife eye, forming a knife eye at the distance of 1.0cm between the two knife backs and the armhole, pulling out the front knife seam M by about 0.2cm, wherein the pulling-out is in a state that the chest is naturally concave, and the armhole is large enough not to be pulled when the human body moves.

(6) According to the structure of a human body, the front shoulder seam is 3.0cm away from the H point of the shoulder end point, and the outer arc bulge is 0.3 cm.

(7) The process treatment comprises that the distance between the armhole and the shoulder end point H is 4.0cm, the distance between the J position and the armhole is about 0.2 cm-0.3 cm, the position between the N position and the armhole stretch is horizontally pulled, the distance between the shoulder seam and the shoulder end point H is 2cmF is about 0.2cm, and the distance between the shoulder seam and the neck shoulder point H1 is about 2cm, and the distance between the shoulder seam and the shoulder end point G is about 0.5 cm.

(8) The body armholes are increased by 0.5 cm-0.6 cm in total according to the steps, and the eating vigor of the front sleeves needs to be increased by 0.5 cm-0.6 cm when the sleeves are used for drawing, so that the sleeves are prevented from being insufficiently eaten.

Secondly, a flat clothing processing method of the princess sewing type female suit structure comprises the following steps:

the common main type division belongs to a modeling division line, a front shoulder seam is selected as a tangent point and is respectively connected with a BP point to form a division line, a side seam dart is transferred to a shoulder seam dart by the front clothes body, and the division line is drawn.

Through experimental analysis, the princess structure is folded by 0.2cm from L1 to L2 and L1, is unfolded by 0.2cm from L2, and is pulled out by 0.2cm after the shoulder end point H is dropped by 4.0cm by combining process treatment.

Unit: cm

Style

Fabric

Specification of

Front clothes length

Bra

Shoulder width

Cuff

Length of sleeve

Two-buckle universal shoulder

Western-style clothes material

64/88A

64

88

38.5

15.7

57.5

As shown in figure 9, (2) 4.0cm of division is made at a position which is far away from a shoulder point H, a division line passes through a BP point by 1.5cm (the thin material of the western-style clothes is 1.5cm as far as possible, is close to the BP, the eating tendency is controlled to be 0.3cm, the farther away from the BP, the larger the eating tendency is, the thin material of the western-style clothes is easy to wrinkle and is not flat to wear), and the specific division requirements are according to the style. The thoracic province is transferred to the division by transferring the province. Finally, two cutter eyes are arranged on the cutter back seam at the position 8.5cm away from the BP point, and the position of the counterpoint draft R1 is about 0.3 cm.

(3) After the province is completed, the distance between the shoulder seam and the lower part of the shoulder seam is 6cm, an auxiliary line L1L2 is made, the L1 at the armhole is unfolded by 0.2cm, and the L2 below the shoulder seam is folded by 0.2 cm. The folding reason is that after turning over and saving, the shoulder seam becomes oblique, and the sewing course is easy to elongate, and the other reason is that the chest can be sunken after being pulled out. It should be noted that it cannot be drawn too smoothly, concave, through an arc.

(4) And (3) punching an alignment knife eye, wherein the distance between the alignment knife eye and the shoulder seam is 5.0cm, and the small piece is pulled out by about 0.2cm through the shoulder, or performing horizontal walking treatment in sewing due to the reason of diagonal pulling.

(5) According to the structure of a human body, the front shoulder seam is 3.0cm away from the H point of the shoulder end point, and the outer arc bulge is 0.3 cm.

(6) The process treatment comprises that the distance between the armhole and the shoulder end point H is 4.0cm, the J1 position is pulled out by about 0.2 cm-0.3 cm, the N1 armhole pulling strip is horizontally pulled, the distance between the shoulder seam and the shoulder end point H is 2cmF1 is reduced by about 0.2cm, and the distance between the shoulder seam and the neck shoulder point H1 is 2cm, and the distance between the shoulder seam and the shoulder end point G1 is pulled out by about 0.5 cm.

(7) The body armholes are increased by 0.4-0.5cm in total according to the steps, and the front sleeve mountain eating vigor is increased by 0.4-0.5cm at the same time when the sleeves are drawn, so that the sleeves are prevented from eating insufficiently.

Thirdly, one-piece process treatment:

the one-piece structure belongs to the waist province as a typical representative, and the analysis of the waist province structure is that the waist province modeling is that the side seam province is transferred to the waist province at the chest high point and the most concave part of the front waist is processed to draw lines.

Through experimental analysis, no division exists between the chest and the shoulder of the lumbar region structure, the trial graph is divided by a transverse auxiliary line forcibly at the chest width, the intersection point of the transverse auxiliary line and the turning line is a central point, the armhole is unfolded by 0.2cm, the folding of the overlap line is about 0.4cm, and the operation method has the defects of lifting in the middle before the seam allowance is stirred and the turning line is empty. Multiple experiments prove that the chest and shoulder part non-segmentation is structurally difficult to solve and can only be treated by technical reduction and extraction.

1) A standard model 160/84A is adopted, the height of the chest is set to be 24.5cm, BP is set to be 9.0cm, and the province is set to be 3.0 cm.

Unit: cm

Style

Fabric

Specification of

Front clothes length

Bra

Shoulder width

Cuff

Length of sleeve

Two-buckle waist saver

Western-style clothes material

64/88A

64

88

38.5

15.7

57.5

As shown in fig. 10, (2) the shoulder seam is gathered to be about 0.2cm from the point H2cm of the shoulder end point, and the shoulder seam is pulled out to be about 0.5cm from the point H1 cm of the neck shoulder point.

The shoulder point H is point H, the point H is about 0.2cm close to F2 at the position 2cm to the right, and the point G2 is about 0.5cm open.

(3) The distance between the armhole and the shoulder end point H is 4.0cm, the pulling-out is about 0.2-0.3cm, the chest width is 0.2cm, the armhole pulling strip is flat-pulled, the pulling-out of the front armhole of the body is totally 0.4-0.5cm, when the sleeve is used for drawing, the front sleeve mountain vigor needs to be increased to the pulling-out amount of the body, so that the sleeve vigor is not enough.

The distance between the armhole and the shoulder endpoint H point is 4.0cm, the J2 is pulled out by about 0.2-0.3cm, and the chest width S2 is pulled out by 0.2 cm.

The above embodiments are merely examples of the present application and are not intended to limit the scope of the present application, and various modifications and changes may be made by those skilled in the art. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement and the like made within the spirit and principle of the present application shall be included in the protection scope of the present application.

Claims

1. A method for making a suit for a flat suit in the area of acromion and chest height, the method comprising:

determining a structure sample plate, wherein the structure sample plate at least comprises a front shoulder line, a modeling division line and a chest height point which are calculated according to style and human body size, and the modeling division line is a connecting line of a modeling tangent point and the chest height point;

shortening the length of the modeling dividing line to the chest height point by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm;

pulling out the position 4-4.5 cm below the shoulder end point of the front shoulder line by 0.2-0.3cm, pulling out the position 2-2.5 cm away from the neck shoulder point of the front shoulder line by 0.5-0.6 cm, and unfolding the chest width position of the front sleeve cage by 0.3-0.35 cm.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the step of determining a structural template, the structural template comprising at least a front shoulder line, a sculpting line and a chest height point calculated according to a style and a body size, wherein the sculpting line is a line connecting a sculpting tangent point and the chest height point comprises:

making the modeling parting line by taking the front armhole as the modeling tangent point;

and (4) performing segmentation at the armhole, wherein the modeling segmentation line passes through the chest height point by 1.5 cm-1.6 cm.

3. The method of making a suit according to claim 2 wherein shortening the length of the sculpted line between 0.2cm and 0.3cm to the chest height point comprises:

shortening the extension line of the front back of the knife close to the armhole by 0.2 cm-0.3 cm;

sewing the back of the front knife 3.5-3.0 cm away from the position of the armhole, making an auxiliary line, and unfolding the auxiliary line at the position of the armhole by 0.1-0.15 cm;

punching an alignment knife eye, punching a knife eye at the distance of 1.0-1.5 cm between the two knife backs of the armhole, and pulling out a front knife gap of 0.2-0.3 cm;

according to the structure of a human body, the front shoulder seam is 3.0cm to 3.5cm away from the end point of the shoulder, and the outer arc bulge is 0.3cm to 0.35 cm.

4. The method of manufacturing a suit for a flat suit according to claim 2, wherein pulling out the front shoulder line from 4cm to 4.5cm below the shoulder end point of the front shoulder line by 0.2cm to 0.3cm, pulling out the front shoulder line from 2cm to 2.5cm away from the neck shoulder point of the front shoulder line by 0.5cm to 0.6cm, and pulling out the front sleeve cage from 0.3cm to 0.35cm at the chest width comprises:

through process treatment, the distance between the armhole and the shoulder end point is 4.0-4.5 cm, the armhole is pulled out by 0.2-0.3cm, the armhole stretch is drawn horizontally, the distance between the shoulder seam and the shoulder end point is 2-2.5 cm, the distance between the shoulder seam and the shoulder end point is 0.2-0.25 cm, and the distance between the shoulder seam and the collar shoulder point is 2-2.5 cm, the distance between the shoulder seam and the collar shoulder point is 0.5-0.6 cm.

5. The method for manufacturing a suit for a flat suit according to claim 2, wherein the front shoulder line is pulled out 0.2cm to 0.3cm from a shoulder point 4cm to 4.5cm below the shoulder point, the front shoulder line is pulled out 0.5cm to 0.6cm from a neck shoulder point 2cm to 2.5cm away from the neck shoulder point of the front shoulder line, and the front sleeve cage is pulled out 0.3cm to 0.35cm from the chest width, and the method further comprises:

the eating vigor of the front sleeve mountain is increased by 0.5 cm-0.6 cm.

6. The method of claim 1, wherein the step of determining a structural template, the structural template comprising at least a front shoulder line, a sculpting line and a chest height point calculated according to a style and a body size, wherein the sculpting line is a line connecting a sculpting tangent point and the chest height point comprises:

making the modeling parting line by taking the front shoulder seam as the modeling tangent point;

and cutting the part 4.0-4.5 cm away from the shoulder point, wherein the modeling cutting line passes through the chest height point by 1.5-1.6 cm.

7. The method of making a suit according to claim 6 wherein shortening the length of the sculpted line between 0.2cm and 0.3cm to the chest height point comprises:

making an auxiliary line 6-6.5 cm away from the shoulder seam, unfolding the armhole at the auxiliary line by 0.2-0.3cm, and folding the armhole at the shoulder seam by 0.2-0.3 cm;

aligning a knife eye, keeping the distance between the knife eye and the shoulder seam at 5.0-5.5 cm, and pulling out a small piece of the knife eye through the shoulder at 0.2-0.3 cm;

according to the structure of a human body, the front shoulder seam is 3.0 cm-3.5 cm away from the shoulder end point, and the outer arc bulge is 0.3 cm-0.35 cm.

8. The method for manufacturing a suit of a flat suit according to claim 6, wherein pulling out the front shoulder line from 4cm to 4.5cm below the shoulder end point of the front shoulder line by 0.2cm to 0.3cm, pulling out the front shoulder line from 2cm to 2.5cm away from the neck shoulder point of the front shoulder line by 0.5cm to 0.6cm, and pulling out the front sleeve cage from 0.3cm to 0.35cm at the chest width comprises:

the process treatment comprises that the distance between the armhole and the shoulder end point is 4.0-4.5 cm, the armhole is pulled out by 0.2-0.3cm, the armhole stretch is horizontally pulled, the position of the shoulder seam, which is 2-2.5 cm away from the shoulder end point, is pulled in by 0.2-0.25 cm, and the position of the shoulder seam, which is 2-2.5 cm away from the neck shoulder point, is pulled out by 0.5-0.6 cm.

9. The method for manufacturing a suit of a flat suit according to claim 6, wherein the front shoulder line is pulled out 0.2cm to 0.3cm from a shoulder point 4cm to 4.5cm below the shoulder point, the front shoulder line is pulled out 0.5cm to 0.6cm from a neck shoulder point 2cm to 2.5cm away from the neck shoulder point of the front shoulder line, and the front sleeve cage is stretched out 0.3cm to 0.35cm from the chest width, the method further comprising:

the eating vigor of the front sleeve mountain is increased by 0.4 cm-0.5 cm.