CN109744626B

CN109744626B - High-grade manually-customized jacket conforming to human body vertical face shape setting amount and ironing method on fabric

Info

Publication number: CN109744626B
Application number: CN201811606290.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 吴国英
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2018-12-27
Filing date: 2018-12-27
Publication date: 2020-11-20
Anticipated expiration: 2038-12-27
Also published as: CN109744626A

Abstract

The high-grade manually-customized upper outer garment obtained by the invention conforms to the manufacturing method of the human body facade form, and the position needing special facade modeling is determined by observing the human body form. And the fabric placing amount according to the vertical modeling requirement is designed by considering the fabric form change of the vertical modeling. Meanwhile, a method for specially ironing the vertical face model of each characteristic position of the human body is designed, so that the coat manufactured by the method has a single-coat model vertical face besides a three-dimensional effect of a structural line between the garment pieces, and curves on the coat are further increased by the ironing method, so that the upper back of the coat is particularly fit with the curves of the human body, and the real meaning of high-grade manual customization is realized.

Description

High-grade manually-customized jacket conforming to human body vertical face shape setting amount and ironing method on fabric

Technical Field

The invention relates to a method for making high-grade custom-made clothes, in particular to a method for making a high-grade manually-made jacket according with the shape of a human body facade.

Background

With the progress of the times, the requirements of people on clothes are higher and higher, and the clothes are changed from new clothes to famous brand to customization, but the clothes are further changed into advanced customization on the basis of the customization, and a new method is needed to be invented on the manufacturing technology. The existing customized clothes can be only the size of the user is accurate, and the clothes are not further optimized. The human body is in a three-dimensional shape consisting of various curves, and the clothes obtained completely according to the accurate size often have the effect of single plates for people. This is a disadvantage due to the inability of the garment to fully conform to the body's curves. The fabric is in a movable curved shape, but tends to be in a flat state in a natural state. On the other hand, the dimensional accuracy and the flexible nature of the material also causes large wrinkles when the wearer moves.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to solve the problems, the invention provides a manufacturing method which is suitable for high-grade customization and aims at the high-grade manually customized upper outer garment with the vertical face shape of the human body curve to be in line with the vertical face shape of the human body.

The invention relates to a method for making a high-grade hand-made jacket conforming to the shape of a human body vertical face, which comprises a sample making plate, cutting fabric according to the sample plate to obtain cut pieces, wherein the cut pieces comprise a front piece, a rear piece and a sleeve piece, and the following setting operations are carried out on the cut pieces when the cut pieces are cut:

a) the front piece is shaped in a chest-appearing manner, the left vertical face and the right vertical face are respectively increased by 0.8-1.2cm, the position of a lapel line of a collar is subjected to inward concave change of about 0.5-0.8cm, the lapel collar needs to be outwards expanded to the same size for correction, and simultaneously the difference used by the vertical face needs to be replenished, wherein the method is that the fabric release amount of 2.5cm on a front fly seam allowance line is increased when the front piece fabric is cut, so that the line correction of the front piece after the structural line shape of the front piece is changed after the vertical face is shaped is carried out;

b) after the front piece is subjected to the vertical face modeling of the shape shoulder, the position of a shoulder line and the position of a front sleeve cage line can be changed by 1-1.5cm, the front shoulder line and the front shoulder point armhole line segment can be shortened by 0.8-1cm, and the difference used by the vertical face needs to be replenished again at the same time, wherein the method is that the fabric placing amount of each 2.5cm of the front shoulder line and the front shoulder point armhole line segment is increased when the fabric of the garment piece is cut;

c) after the front piece and the rear piece are subjected to the vertical face modeling of the invisible hip shape of 0.3-0.6cm, the bottom edge line position of the front piece and the rear piece is subjected to the inward concave change of 0.3-0.6cm, the difference used by the vertical face needs to be replenished, and meanwhile, the bottom edge line needs to be replenished by 0.8-1.2cm of the three-dimensional edge closing effect of the clothes converted from the structure line of the plane paper plate, and the method is that the fabric placing amount of the bottom edge line segment of 5cm is increased when the fabric of the cut piece is cut;

d) after the rear piece is subjected to the vertical face modeling of 0.3-0.6cm of invisible scapula type, the position of a rear center seam line generates the concave change of 0.3-0.6cm, and the difference used by the vertical face needs to be replenished again, wherein the method is to increase the fabric discharge amount of the rear center seam line segment of 2.5cm when the fabric of the garment piece is cut;

e) after the upper and lower sleeve sheets are shaped into the vertical surface with the shape-displaying arm shape of 1.2-1.5cm, the positions of the outer side sheet lines of the upper and lower sleeves are subjected to the inward concave change of 0.8-1.0cm, and the difference used by the vertical surface needs to be replenished again, namely the fabric placing amount of the outer side sheet line is increased by 2.5cm when the fabrics of the upper and lower sleeve sheets are cut.

The further scheme is that the garment piece ironing comprises two ironing methods, wherein one ironing method is apparent ironing with the ironing degree reaching the vertical surface effect of more than 1.5cm, and the other ironing method is invisible ironing with the ironing degree between 0.5 cm and 1.5cm, and the garment piece ironing comprises the following steps:

a) ironing the breast shape of the front piece: taking 2cm above the waist-saving point of the front piece as a central point, dividing the left and right halves by the central point, and leaning a half of the fabric 45 degrees against a 20cm high stereoscopic sandbag or sleeper for left and right alternate half-edge ironing; the iron pulling and ironing method is that the iron is stuck and pressed on the back side of the chest fabric, when the iron is pulled and ironed leftwards and rightwards, the iron is moved like a colorful red line-shaped track, steam ironing is needed firstly, then dry ironing is needed, the pulling and ironing time of the left piece and the right piece lasts for 7-9 minutes, and the pulling and ironing degree is obvious ironing;

b) shoulder shape ironing: the fabric at one end of the shoulder is subjected to shoulder ironing by a three-dimensional sand bag, the ironing range is that the front piece is not more than 15cm below the shoulder line, the direction of the iron ironing method is that an iron is stuck and pressed on the back side of the fabric of the shoulder and moves left and right, the gravity point of the iron is in place during ironing, only the iron is moved by the trend of the track of the rotary iron, steam ironing is needed firstly, then dry ironing is needed, the ironing time of the left piece and the right piece lasts for 7-9 minutes, and the ironing degree is apparent ironing;

c) ironing buttocks of front pieces: directly carrying out invisible ironing by rotating an iron left and right on the fabric of the whole front piece between 3cm below the pocket position of the garment piece and 3cm above the bottom edge position to ensure that the hip has an invisible vertical face shape;

d) ironing the scapula at the back: pulling and ironing the back piece 1/2 with the armholes deep down to the back armholes, and pushing the iron from two sides to the back suture position along the pulling and ironing direction;

e) ironing the hip of the rear piece: starting up 10cm below the middle waist section of the back piece, ironing the fabric of the whole back piece 3cm above the bottom edge position by using invisible ironing, and pulling and ironing by using an iron left and right alternately to ensure that the back hip part has an invisible vertical surface shape;

f) ironing sleeve pieces: sewing inner side arcs of sleeves, arranging one piece of the sleeve with a plurality of wrinkles on a planar ironing table, completely unfolding and flattening the other piece of the sleeve on the planar ironing table, and ironing by an iron until the ironing direction conforms to the silky willow of the sleeve piece fabric, wherein the ironing degree is up to the condition that the silky willow of the fabric is completely consistent with the inner side arcs; then, the other side is replaced, the same method is used for ironing, the same ironing degree is achieved, and the radius of the curvature of the arc line is 2-4cm generally;

g) ironing a collar: the method is characterized in that the straight-yarn collar fabric with the fabric width of about 14-16cm and the fabric length of about 40-50cm is pulled and ironed along the edge, the ironing method is that an iron performs repeated ironing along the edge along the arc line in a moon-shaped state back and forth, the ironed edge is unfolded to be similar to the moon-shaped curve, after the radius of the arc reaches 2-4cm, the moon-shaped arc line is arranged to be provided with a plurality of folds and unfolded on a plane table, the other surface is replaced, the same method is used for ironing, and the same effect is achieved.

The high-grade manually-customized upper outer garment obtained by the invention conforms to the manufacturing method of the human body facade form, and the position needing special inner modeling is determined by observing the human body form. And the fabric placing amount according to the vertical modeling requirement is designed by considering the fabric form change of the vertical modeling. Meanwhile, a method for specially ironing the vertical face model of each characteristic position of the human body is designed, so that the coat manufactured by the method has a single-coat model vertical face besides a three-dimensional effect of a structural line between the garment pieces, and curves on the coat are further increased by the ironing method, so that the upper back of the coat is particularly fit with the curves of the human body, and the real meaning of high-grade manual customization is realized.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of example step a.

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of example step b.

FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of embodiment step d.

FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of example step e.

FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of example step f.

FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram of example step g.

FIG. 7 is a schematic diagram of example step h.

FIG. 8 is a schematic diagram of example step i.

FIG. 9 is a diagram illustrating embodiment step j.

FIG. 10 is a schematic diagram of embodiment step k.

FIG. 11 is a schematic diagram of example step l.

Fig. 12 is a schematic view showing a state of the front panel after ironing is completed.

Detailed Description

The technical solution in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the accompanying drawings in the embodiments of the present invention.

Example 1.

As shown in fig. 1-4, the method for making the high-grade hand-made custom-made jacket according to the embodiment comprises a template, cutting the fabric according to the template to obtain the cut pieces, wherein the cut pieces comprise a front piece, a rear piece and a sleeve piece, and the following steps are performed on the cut pieces when the cut pieces are cut:

a) the front piece is shaped in a chest-appearing manner, the left vertical face and the right vertical face are respectively increased by 0.8-1.2cm, the position of a lapel line of a collar is subjected to inward concave change of about 0.5-0.8cm, the lapel collar needs to be outwards expanded to the same size for correction, and simultaneously the difference used by the vertical face needs to be replenished, wherein the method is that the fabric release amount of 2.5cm on a front fly seam allowance line is increased when the front piece fabric is cut, so that the line of the front piece after the structural line shape of the front piece is changed after the vertical face is shaped is corrected, as shown in figure 1;

b) after the front piece is subjected to the vertical face modeling of the shape shoulder, the position of a shoulder line and the position of a front sleeve cage line can be changed by 1-1.5cm, the front shoulder line and the front shoulder point armhole line segment can be shortened by 0.8-1cm, and the difference used by the vertical face needs to be replenished again at the same time, wherein the method is that the fabric placing amount of each 2.5cm of the front shoulder line and the front shoulder point armhole line segment is increased when the fabric of the garment piece is cut, as shown in figure 2;

d) after the rear piece is subjected to the vertical face modeling of 0.3-0.6cm of invisible scapula type, the position of a rear center seam line is subjected to the concave change of 0.3-0.6cm, and the difference used by the vertical face needs to be replenished again at the same time, wherein the method is that the fabric discharge amount of the rear center seam line segment of 2.5cm is increased when the fabric of the garment piece is cut, as shown in figure 3;

e) after the upper and lower sleeve panels are shaped into the vertical surface with the shape-displaying arm of 1.2-1.5cm, the positions of the outer side panels of the upper and lower sleeves are changed from 0.8-1.0cm in the inward concave manner, and the difference used by the vertical surface needs to be supplemented again, namely the fabric placing amount of the outer side panels of 2.5cm is increased when the fabrics of the upper and lower sleeve panels are cut, as shown in fig. 4.

Then ironing the garment pieces, wherein the ironing method comprises two ironing methods, one ironing method is apparent ironing with the ironing degree reaching over 1.5cm of vertical surface effect, the other ironing method is invisible ironing with the ironing degree between 0.5 and 1.5cm, and the garment pieces ironing comprises the following steps:

the front vertical surface of the human body is the most protruded area of the three-dimensional surface of the human body, and the shape area consists of a concave shape of the shoulder, a convex shape of the chest and a plump shape of the buttocks. The chest shape is the most convex surface, and the combined shape of the waist line is needed besides the ironing. The three areas on the front cut piece are shaped in a bending mode to match the shape of the wearer.

f) Ironing the breast shape of the front piece: taking 2cm above the waist-saving point of the front piece as a central point, dividing the left and right halves by the central point, and leaning a half of the fabric 45 degrees against a 20cm high stereoscopic sandbag or sleeper for left and right alternate half-edge ironing; the iron pulling and ironing method is that the iron is stuck and pressed on the back side of the chest fabric, when the iron is pulled and ironed leftwards and rightwards, the iron is moved like a colorful red line-shaped track, steam ironing is needed firstly, then dry ironing is needed, the pulling and ironing time of the left piece and the right piece lasts for 7-9 minutes, and the pulling and ironing degree is apparent ironing, as shown in figure 5;

g) shoulder shape ironing: the fabric at one end of the shoulder is pulled and ironed by a three-dimensional sand bag, the pulling and ironing range is that the front piece is not more than 15cm below the shoulder line, the direction of the iron pulling and ironing method is that an iron is stuck and pressed on the back side of the fabric of the shoulder and moves left and right, the gravity point of the iron is in the original place during pulling and ironing, only the iron is moved by the trend of the track of the rotary iron, steam ironing is needed firstly, then dry ironing is needed, the pulling and ironing time of the left piece and the right piece lasts for 7-9 minutes, and the pulling and ironing degree is apparent ironing, as shown in figure 6;

h) ironing buttocks of front pieces: directly performing invisible ironing by rotating the ironing machine left and right on the fabric of the whole front piece between 3cm below the pocket position of the garment piece and 3cm above the bottom edge position, so that the hip part has an invisible vertical surface shape, as shown in fig. 7;

the whole front piece has 2 shape-showing parts after being ironed, the chest three-dimensional height is about 1.5cm, the shoulder three-dimensional height is about 1cm, and the hip three-dimensional height is about 0.6cm at an invisible part, as shown in figure 12.

The back vertical surface form area of the human body consists of an invisible convex surface form of the scapula and an invisible back hip form. The following ironing processes are therefore required:

i) ironing the scapula at the back: the back armholes of the back sheet 1/2 go deep down to the back armholes, and the ironing is carried out, the ironing direction iron is pushed from two sides to the back suture position, as shown in fig. 8;

j) ironing the hip of the rear piece: starting up 10cm below the middle waist section of the back piece, ironing the fabric of the whole back piece 3cm above the bottom edge position by using an invisible ironing machine, and ironing by rotating an iron left and right to ensure that the back hip part has an invisible vertical surface shape, as shown in fig. 9;

the arms of the human body are in a natural arc shape, and the sleeve sheet is matched with the natural curvature of the arms of the human body only in a visible sickle-like shape, so that the following natural arc ironing treatment is carried out on the sleeve sheet:

k) ironing sleeve pieces: sewing inner side arcs of sleeves, arranging one piece of the sleeve with a plurality of wrinkles on a planar ironing table, completely unfolding and flattening the other piece of the sleeve on the planar ironing table, and ironing by an iron until the ironing direction conforms to the silky willow of the sleeve piece fabric, wherein the ironing degree is up to the condition that the silky willow of the fabric is completely consistent with the inner side arcs; then, the other side is changed, the same method is used for ironing to achieve the same ironing degree, and the radius of the curvature of the arc line is 2-4cm, as shown in figure 10;

the human collar is in a natural arc coil shape, the collar shape can be matched with the neck shape of the human body only by pressing and ironing the shape, so that the following ironing treatment is carried out on the collar:

l) collar ironing: the method is characterized in that the straight-yarn collar fabric with the fabric width of about 14-16cm and the fabric length of about 40-50cm is pulled and ironed along the edge, the ironing method is that an iron performs repeated ironing along the edge along the arc line in a moon-shaped state left and right, the ironed edge is unfolded to be similar to the moon-shaped curve, after the radius of the arc reaches 2-4cm, the moon-shaped arc line is arranged to be provided with a plurality of folds and unfolded on a plane table, the other surface is replaced, the same method is used for ironing, and the same effect is achieved, as shown in figure 11.

The processing method described in the above embodiment needs to perform accurate volume-releasing processing and ironing processing on the front panel, the rear panel, the sleeve panel and the collar panel, so as to complement each other and achieve the modeling effect according with the human body shape.

Claims

1. A method for making high-grade manually-made jacket conforming to the shape of human vertical face includes preparing template, cutting out fabric according to the template to obtain garment pieces, including front and back pieces and sleeve pieces, and features that when cutting out garment pieces, the following steps are performed:

the front piece is shaped in a chest-appearing manner, the left vertical face and the right vertical face are respectively increased by 0.8-1.2cm, the position of a lapel line of a collar is subjected to inward concave change of about 0.5-0.8cm, the lapel collar needs to be outwards expanded to the same size for correction, and simultaneously the difference used by the vertical face needs to be replenished, wherein the method is that the fabric release amount of 2.5cm on a front fly seam allowance line is increased when the front piece fabric is cut, so that the line correction of the front piece after the structural line shape of the front piece is changed after the vertical face is shaped is carried out;

after the front piece is subjected to the vertical face modeling of the shape shoulder, the position of a shoulder line and the position of a front sleeve cage line can be changed by 1-1.5cm, the front shoulder line and the front shoulder point armhole line segment can be shortened by 0.8-1cm, and the difference used by the vertical face needs to be replenished again at the same time, wherein the method is that the fabric placing amount of each 2.5cm of the front shoulder line and the front shoulder point armhole line segment is increased when the fabric of the garment piece is cut;

after the front piece and the rear piece are subjected to the vertical face modeling of the invisible hip shape of 0.3-0.6cm, the bottom edge line position of the front piece and the rear piece is subjected to the inward concave change of 0.3-0.6cm, the difference used by the vertical face needs to be replenished, and meanwhile, the bottom edge line needs to be replenished by 0.8-1.2cm of the three-dimensional edge closing effect of the clothes converted from the structure line of the plane paper plate, and the method is that the fabric placing amount of the bottom edge line segment of 5cm is increased when the fabric of the cut piece is cut;

after the rear piece is subjected to the vertical face modeling of 0.3-0.6cm of invisible scapula type, the position of a rear center seam line generates the concave change of 0.3-0.6cm, and the difference used by the vertical face needs to be replenished again, wherein the method is to increase the fabric discharge amount of the rear center seam line segment of 2.5cm when the fabric of the garment piece is cut;

after the upper and lower sleeve sheets are shaped into the vertical surface with the shape-displaying arm shape of 1.2-1.5cm, the positions of the outer side sheet lines of the upper and lower sleeves are subjected to the inward concave change of 0.8-1.0cm, and the difference used by the vertical surface needs to be replenished again, namely the fabric placing amount of the outer side sheet line is increased by 2.5cm when the fabrics of the upper and lower sleeve sheets are cut.

2. The method for making an advanced hand-made custom-made jacket conforming to the facade morphology of a human body as claimed in claim 1, wherein the ironing method comprises two ironing methods, one is explicit ironing with the ironing degree reaching more than 1.5cm of the facade effect, and the other is invisible ironing with the ironing degree between 0.5 cm and 1.5cm, the ironing of the garment piece comprises the following steps:

ironing the breast shape of the front piece: taking 2cm above the waist-saving point of the front piece as a central point, dividing the left and right halves by the central point, and leaning a half of the fabric 45 degrees against a 20cm high stereoscopic sandbag or sleeper for left and right alternate half-edge ironing; the iron pulling and ironing method is that the iron is stuck and pressed on the back side of the chest fabric, when the iron is pulled and ironed leftwards and rightwards, the iron is moved like a colorful red line-shaped track, steam ironing is needed firstly, then dry ironing is needed, the pulling and ironing time of the left piece and the right piece lasts for 7-9 minutes, and the pulling and ironing degree is obvious ironing;

shoulder shape ironing: the fabric at one end of the shoulder is subjected to shoulder ironing by a three-dimensional sand bag, the ironing range is that the front piece is not more than 15cm below the shoulder line, the direction of the iron ironing method is that an iron is stuck and pressed on the back side of the fabric of the shoulder and moves left and right, the gravity point of the iron is in place during ironing, only the iron is moved by the trend of the track of the rotary iron, steam ironing is needed firstly, then dry ironing is needed, the ironing time of the left piece and the right piece lasts for 7-9 minutes, and the ironing degree is apparent ironing;

ironing buttocks of front pieces: directly carrying out invisible ironing by rotating an iron left and right on the fabric of the whole front piece between 3cm below the pocket position of the garment piece and 3cm above the bottom edge position to ensure that the hip has an invisible vertical face shape;

ironing the scapula at the back: the back armholes of the back piece 1/2 go deep down to the back armholes, and the ironing is carried out in the direction that the iron is pushed from two sides to the back suture position;

ironing the hip of the rear piece: starting up 10cm below the middle waist section of the back piece, ironing the fabric of the whole back piece 3cm above the bottom edge position by using invisible ironing, and pulling and ironing by using an iron left and right alternately to ensure that the back hip part has an invisible vertical surface shape;

ironing sleeve pieces: sewing inner side arcs of sleeves, arranging one piece of the sleeve with a plurality of wrinkles on a planar ironing table, completely unfolding and flattening the other piece of the sleeve on the planar ironing table, and ironing by an iron until the ironing direction conforms to the silky willow of the sleeve piece fabric, wherein the ironing degree is up to the condition that the silky willow of the fabric is completely consistent with the inner side arcs; then, the other side is replaced, the same method is used for ironing, the same ironing degree is achieved, and the radius of the curvature of the arc line is 2-4 cm;

ironing a collar: the method is characterized in that the straight-yarn collar fabric with the fabric width of about 14-16cm and the fabric length of about 40-50cm is pulled and ironed along the edge, the ironing method is that an iron performs repeated ironing along the edge along the arc line in a moon-shaped state back and forth, the ironed edge is unfolded to be similar to the moon-shaped curve, after the radius of the arc reaches 2-4cm, the moon-shaped arc line is arranged to be provided with a plurality of folds and unfolded on a plane table, the other surface is replaced, the same method is used for ironing, and the same effect is achieved.