CN104770926B - A kind of method of stand-up collar garment collar nest plate-making - Google Patents
A kind of method of stand-up collar garment collar nest plate-making Download PDFInfo
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- CN104770926B CN104770926B CN201510134026.XA CN201510134026A CN104770926B CN 104770926 B CN104770926 B CN 104770926B CN 201510134026 A CN201510134026 A CN 201510134026A CN 104770926 B CN104770926 B CN 104770926B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
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- Textile Engineering (AREA)
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a kind of method of stand-up collar garment collar nest plate-making, using following steps:Determine Points And lines:Line segment AB is shoulder line, and A points are neck point, and B points are shoulder point, and arc BC is armhole line, and arc AD is neck nest line, and line segment DK is preceding left front line;Plate-making:A ' points are taken on AB lines, the distance range for making A A ' is 0.4~0.6cm, takes B ' points in AB extended line, makes BB '=AA ', D ' points are taken on DA camber lines, and the distance range for making DD ' is 0.2~0.3cm;The camber line A ' F that A ' points intersect at neck nest line AD are crossed, cross the camber line B ' E that B ' points are made to intersect with armhole line BC, cross the camber line D ' H of left front line DK before D ' points intersect at;Method for platemaking of the present invention is simple to operate, in production process one-shot forming, saves material and operating efficiency is high, flatiron repeatedly is not had to after the completion of suture and is arranged, save substantial amounts of last phase tidying up work.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to dress designing and production technical field, is related to a kind of method of stand-up collar garment collar nest plate-making.
Background technology
Stand-up collar clothes are a kind of common clothes fashions, are had wide range of applications, and are related to industry clothes, military products, Chinese-fashion garments etc.,
General man's chest be higher than neck root, and BL BUST LINE above sub-fraction is a convex, from breastheight to neck root at be one and tilt
The gradient, have an angle with the vertical line of horizontal plane, during stand-up collar clothes are made, collar with neck nest is combined after, neck nest
Easily there are some folds in the outside at position, when the stand-up collar clothes after dress are covered in human chest, just occurs in neck nest part
The fabric fold being more than, influence the overall appearance of clothes.The method for solving this problem at present is:Firstth,(1)The period of the day from 11 p.m. to 1 a.m that attaches collar increases
Preceding neckline margin to seam is handled, and is reached and is increased neckline and do not produce fold at neck nest to control, the disadvantage of the method is to change
Lead the design model of nest.(2)Neck nest margin to seam is stretched in drawing, is reached neck nest and is convinced, and the disadvantage of the method is to change yarn at neck nest
Line, both the above method are by changing manual operation gimmick, and finished appearance quality is caused because manual operation is variant not
Stable increase manufacture difficulty.Secondth, served as a contrast by increasing reinforcement at neck nest, neck nest position is convinced, the disadvantage of the method is
Outward appearance is stiff, and dress is uncomfortable.3rd, lead nest position to take normalized hot heat treatment finished product, neck nest position is convinced, the method
Disadvantage be that can not keep appearance for a long time.
The content of the invention
The technical problems to be solved by the invention be to provide it is a kind of it is simple to operate, lead the vertical of nest smooth-going when wearing stand-up collar clothes
The method for leading the plate-making of garment collar nest
The present invention adopts the following technical scheme that:
The method of stand-up collar garment collar nest plate-making of the present invention, it includes the right anterior plate model of stand-up collar clothes and left front part model,
The right anterior plate model is identical with the method for platemaking of left front part model, and the method for platemaking of the right anterior plate model is using following step
Suddenly:
(One), determine Points And lines:Line segment AB is shoulder line, and wherein A points are neck point, and B points are shoulder point, and arc BC is armhole
Line, arc AD are neck nest line, and line segment DK is preceding left front line;
(Two), plate-making:A ' points are taken on AB lines, the distance range for making A A ' is 0.4~0.6cm, is taken in AB extended line
B ' points, make BB '=AA ', D ' points are taken on DA camber lines, the distance range for making DD ' is 0.2~0.3cm;Cross A ' points and intersect at neck
Nest line AD camber line A ' F, the camber line B ' E that B ' points are made to intersect with armhole line BC are crossed, cross the arc of left front line DK before D ' points intersect at
Line D ' H.
Good effect of the present invention is as follows:
The present invention will by moving 0.4~0.6cm to muffs direction in anter neck point A points and anter shoulder point B points, during sewing
Bottom is led to be sutured naturally with neck nest, effectively prevents from leading nest to produce fold;Preceding left front line DK to neck nest line DA directions movement 0.2~
0.3cm, it is camber line to make the preceding left front line after plate-making, in order that the preceding left front of ready-made clothes is straight, it is during seam is made that H points is attached
Near fabric is pushed and put together to anterior part of chest position, and this part fabric is transferred into chest boss, ensures what is be convinced at neck nest
Make shirtfront more full simultaneously;The inventive method solves the problems, such as to lead nest to produce fold when stand-up collar clothes are worn, has reached and stood
Lead the smooth-going of garment collar nest, natural dressing effect.Stand-up collar of the present invention neck nest method for platemaking is simple to operate, and in process of production one
Secondary shaping, saves material and operating efficiency is high, and flatiron repeatedly is not had to after the completion of suture and is arranged, saves substantial amounts of last phase tidying up work
Make.The making of stand-up collar garment production is the composite can be widely applied to, it is all vertical to can also be applied to military uniform, industry clothes, foreign trade product etc.
In the production for leading clothes, while it can also be applied to the clothes such as special body size clothes, the single sanction of single amount.
Brief description of the drawings
Accompanying drawing 1 is model structural representation of the present invention.
Embodiment
The present invention is described in detail below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings:
As shown in Figure 1, the present invention includes the right anterior plate model and left front part model of stand-up collar clothes, the right anterior plate model
It is identical with the method for platemaking of left front part model, it is characterised in that the method for platemaking of the right anterior plate uses following steps:
(1), determine Points And lines:Line segment AB is shoulder line, and wherein A points are neck point, and B points are shoulder point, and arc BC is armhole line,
Arc AD is neck nest line, and line segment DK is preceding left front line;
(2), plate-making:A ' points are taken on AB lines, the distance range for making A A ' is 0.4~0.6cm, and B ' are taken in AB extended line
Point, make BB '=AA ', D ' points are taken on DA camber lines, the distance range for making DD ' is 0.2~0.3cm;Cross A ' points and intersect at neck nest
Line AD camber line A ' F, the camber line B ' E that B ' points are made to intersect with armhole line BC are crossed, cross the camber line of left front line DK before D ' points intersect at
D ' H, camber line A ' F, camber line A ' F and camber line D ' H are the smoother camber line of nature;
According to above step, then arc B ' EC attach most importance to the armhole line after new plate-making, and arc A ' FD ' attach most importance to after new plate-making
Neck nest line, line segment D ' HK attach most importance to the preceding left front line after new plate-making;When cutting right anterior plate, along B ' EC line clipping armholes, along A ' FD '
Cut neck nest, left front before being cut along D ' HK.
The present invention will by moving 0.4~0.6cm to muffs direction in anter neck point A points and anter shoulder point B points, during sewing
Bottom is led to be sutured naturally with neck nest, effectively prevents from leading nest to produce fold;Preceding left front line DK to neck nest line DA directions movement 0.2~
0.3cm, it is camber line to make the preceding left front line after plate-making, in order that the preceding left front of ready-made clothes is straight, it is during seam is made that H points is attached
Near fabric pushes and put together to anterior part of chest position, and this part fabric transfer ensures to make shirtfront more while at neck nest being convinced
It is full;The inventive method solve the problems, such as when stand-up collar clothes are worn lead nest produce fold, reached stand-up collar garment collar nest smooth-going,
Natural dressing effect.Stand-up collar of the present invention neck nest method for platemaking is simple to operate, in production process one-shot forming, save material and
Operating efficiency is high, and flatiron repeatedly is not had to after the completion of suture and is arranged, and saves substantial amounts of last phase tidying up work.The present invention can answer extensively
Make, can also be applied in the productions of all stand-up collar clothes such as military uniform, industry clothes, foreign trade product, together for stand-up collar garment production
When can also be applied to the single clothes such as cut out of special body size clothes, single amount.
Upper embodiment is merely illustrative of the technical solution of the present invention, rather than its limitations;It is although right with reference to the foregoing embodiments
The present invention is described in detail, it will be understood by those within the art that:It still can be to previous embodiment institute
The technical scheme of record is modified, or carries out equivalent substitution to which part technical characteristic;And these modifications or replacement,
The essence of appropriate technical solution is not set to depart from the spirit and scope of technical scheme of the embodiment of the present invention.
Claims (1)
1. a kind of method of stand-up collar garment collar nest plate-making, it includes the right anterior plate model of stand-up collar clothes and left front part model, described
Right anterior plate model is identical with the method for platemaking of left front part model, it is characterised in that the method for platemaking of the right anterior plate model is using such as
Lower step:
(One), determine Points And lines:Line segment AB is shoulder line, and wherein A points are neck point, and B points are shoulder point, and arc BC is armhole line, arc
Line segment AD is neck nest line, and line segment DK is preceding left front line;
(Two), plate-making:A ' points are taken on AB lines, the distance range for making A A ' is 0.4~0.6cm, and B ' points are taken in AB extended line,
Make BB '=AA ', D ' points are taken on DA camber lines, the distance range for making DD ' is 0.2~0.3cm;Cross A ' points and intersect at neck nest line AD
Camber line A ' F, cross the camber line B ' E that B ' points are made intersect with armhole line BC, mistake D ' points intersect at preceding left front line DK camber line D ' H.
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CN201510134026.XA CN104770926B (en) | 2015-03-26 | 2015-03-26 | A kind of method of stand-up collar garment collar nest plate-making |
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CN201510134026.XA CN104770926B (en) | 2015-03-26 | 2015-03-26 | A kind of method of stand-up collar garment collar nest plate-making |
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CN104770926A CN104770926A (en) | 2015-07-15 |
CN104770926B true CN104770926B (en) | 2017-12-12 |
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Families Citing this family (4)
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CN108681642A (en) * | 2018-05-18 | 2018-10-19 | 西京学院 | A kind of garment standing collar and preparation method thereof |
CN109744626B (en) * | 2018-12-27 | 2020-11-20 | 吴国英 | High-grade manually-customized jacket conforming to human body vertical face shape setting amount and ironing method on fabric |
WO2022078474A1 (en) * | 2020-10-16 | 2022-04-21 | 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 | Collared coat |
CN114081226A (en) * | 2021-11-23 | 2022-02-25 | 陈观众 | Fixed point track line collage method |
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CN1620954A (en) * | 2004-12-10 | 2005-06-01 | 江帆 | Jacket collar shape sheet making method |
CN203814596U (en) * | 2014-03-19 | 2014-09-10 | 福建柒牌集团有限公司 | Stand collar neckline with improved structure |
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