CN104770926A - Neckline pattern-making method for standing-collar clothes - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a neckline pattern-making method for standing-collar clothes. The method comprises the following steps: determining points and lines: a line segment AB is a shoulder line; a point A is a neck point; a point B is a shoulder point; an arc line segment BC is an armhole line; an arc line segment AD is a neckline line, and a line segment DK is a placket front line; performing pattern-making: taking a point A' on the AB line in a way that the distance range of AA' is 0.4 to 0.6 centimeters; taking a point B' on the extension line of AB in a way that BB'=AA', and taking a point D' on a DA arc line in a way that the distance range of DD' is 0.2 to 0.3 centimeters; drawing an arc line A'F intersecting with the neckline AD across a point A'; drawing an arc line B'E intersecting with the armhole line BC across a point B', and drawing an arc line D'H intersecting with the placket front line DK across a point D'. The pattern-making method is easy to operate; one-time molding is realized in a production process; materials are saved, and the working efficiency is high; repeated finish pressing is not required after the completion of sewing, and a large amount of later-stage finishing work is saved.

Description

A kind of method of stand-up collar garment collar nest plate-making

Technical field

The invention belongs to dress designing and production technical field, relate to the method for a kind of stand-up collar garment collar nest plate-making.

Background technology

Stand-up collar clothes are a kind of common clothes fashions, have wide range of applications, relate to industry clothes, military products, Chinese-fashion garments etc., general man's chest is higher than neck root, the above sub-fraction of BL BUST LINE is a convex, from the gradient that breastheight to neck root is an inclination, an angle is had with the vertical line of horizontal plane, in making stand-up collar clothes process, after collar is combined with neck nest, easily there are some folds, when the stand-up collar clothes after dress are covered in human chest in the outside at neck nest position, neck nest part just there will be more than fabric fold, affect the overall appearance of clothes.The method of current head it off is: the first, (1) attach collar the period of the day from 11 p.m. to 1 a.m strengthen before neckline margin to seam process, make its reach strengthen neckline control neck nest place do not produce fold, the disadvantage of the method be change neck nest design model.(2) draw and stretch neck nest margin to seam, make it reach neck nest and be convinced, the disadvantage of the method changes neck nest place yarn, and above two kinds of methods are all by changing manual operation gimmick, causes finished appearance quality instability to increase manufacture difficulty because manual operation is variant.The second, by increasing reinforcement lining near neck nest place, be convinced in neck nest position, the disadvantage of the method is that outward appearance is stiff, wears uncomfortable.Three, take normalized hot heat treatment to finished product neck nest position, be convinced in neck nest position, the disadvantage of the method can not keep appearance for a long time.

Summary of the invention

Technical problem to be solved by this invention is to provide a kind of method simple to operate, the stand-up collar garment collar nest plate-making that neck nest is smooth-going when wearing stand-up collar clothes

The present invention adopts following technical scheme:

The method of stand-up collar garment collar nest plate-making of the present invention, it comprises right anterior plate model and the left front part model of stand-up collar clothes, and described right anterior plate model is identical with the method for platemaking of left front part model, and the method for platemaking of described right anterior plate model adopts following steps:

(1), determine Points And lines: line segment AB is shoulder line, and wherein A point is neck point, B point is shoulder point, and arc BC is armhole line, and arc AD is neck nest line, and line segment DK is front left front line;

(2), make a plate: on AB line, get A ＇ point, make the distance range of A A ＇ be 0.4 ~ 0.6cm, get B ＇ point at the extended line of AB, make BB ＇=AA ＇, DA camber line is got D ＇ point, make the distance range of DD ＇ be 0.2 ~ 0.3cm; Cross the camber line A ＇ F that A ＇ point intersects at neck nest line AD, cross B ＇ point and make the camber line B ＇ E crossing with armhole line BC, cross the camber line D ＇ H that D ＇ point intersects at front left front line DK.

Good effect of the present invention is as follows:

End neck and neck nest, by moving 0.4 ~ 0.6cm at anter neck point A point and anter shoulder point B point to muffs direction, are sewed up when making, are effectively prevented neck nest from producing fold by the present invention naturally; Front left front line DK moves 0.2 ~ 0.3cm to neck nest line DA direction, the front left front line after plate-making is made to be camber line, in order to left front before making ready-made clothes is straight, do in process, the fabric near H point to be pushed to anterior part of chest position and puts together at seam, this part fabric is transferred to chest boss, ensures that neck nest place makes shirtfront more full while being convinced; The inventive method solves when stand-up collar clothes are worn leads nest to produce the problem of fold, reaches smooth-going, the natural dressing effect of stand-up collar garment collar nest.Stand-up collar neck nest method for platemaking of the present invention is simple to operate, and one-shot forming in process of production, saves material and operating efficiency is high, repeatedly need not press arrangement, save a large amount of last phase tidying up work after having sewed up.The present invention can be widely used in stand-up collar garment production and make, and also can be applicable in the production of all stand-up collar clothes such as military uniform, industry clothes, foreign trade product, also can be applicable to the clothes such as special body size clothes, the single sanction of single amount simultaneously.

Accompanying drawing explanation

Accompanying drawing 1 is model structural representation of the present invention.

Detailed description of the invention

Below in conjunction with accompanying drawing, the present invention is described in detail:

As shown in Figure 1, the present invention includes right anterior plate model and the left front part model of stand-up collar clothes, described right anterior plate model is identical with the method for platemaking of left front part model, it is characterized in that the method for platemaking of described right anterior plate adopts following steps:

(1), determine Points And lines: line segment AB is shoulder line, and wherein A point is neck point, B point is shoulder point, and arc BC is armhole line, and arc AD is neck nest line, and line segment DK is front left front line;

(2), make a plate: on AB line, get A ＇ point, make the distance range of A A ＇ be 0.4 ~ 0.6cm, get B ＇ point at the extended line of AB, make BB ＇=AA ＇, DA camber line is got D ＇ point, make the distance range of DD ＇ be 0.2 ~ 0.3cm; Cross the camber line A ＇ F that A ＇ point intersects at neck nest line AD, cross B ＇ point and make the camber line B ＇ E crossing with armhole line BC, mistake D ＇ point intersects at the camber line D ＇ H of front left front line DK, and described camber line A ＇ F, camber line A ＇ F and camber line D ＇ H are the smoother camber line of nature;

According to above step, then arc B ＇ EC attaches most importance to the armhole line after new plate-making, and arc A ＇ FD ＇ attaches most importance to the neck nest line after new plate-making, and line segment D ＇ HK attaches most importance to the front left front line after new plate-making; During crop right anter, along B ＇ EC line clipping armhole, along A ＇ FD ＇ cutting neck nest, left front before D ＇ HK cutting.

End neck and neck nest, by moving 0.4 ~ 0.6cm at anter neck point A point and anter shoulder point B point to muffs direction, are sewed up when making, are effectively prevented neck nest from producing fold by the present invention naturally; Front left front line DK moves 0.2 ~ 0.3cm to neck nest line DA direction, the front left front line after plate-making is made to be camber line, in order to left front before making ready-made clothes is straight, do in process, the fabric near H point to be pushed to anterior part of chest position and puts together at seam, this part fabric is shifted, ensures that neck nest place makes shirtfront more full while being convinced; The inventive method solves when stand-up collar clothes are worn leads nest to produce the problem of fold, reaches smooth-going, the natural dressing effect of stand-up collar garment collar nest.Stand-up collar of the present invention neck nest method for platemaking is simple to operate, in production process one-shot forming, saves material and operating efficiency is high, repeatedly need not press arrangement, save a large amount of last phase tidying up work after having sewed up.The present invention can be widely used in stand-up collar garment production and make, and also can be applicable in the production of all stand-up collar clothes such as military uniform, industry clothes, foreign trade product, also can be applicable to the clothes such as special body size clothes, the single sanction of single amount simultaneously.

Upper embodiment only in order to technical scheme of the present invention to be described, is not intended to limit; Although with reference to previous embodiment to invention has been detailed description, those of ordinary skill in the art is to be understood that: it still can be modified to the technical scheme described in previous embodiment, or carries out equivalent replacement to wherein portion of techniques feature; And these amendments or replacement, do not make the essence of appropriate technical solution depart from the spirit and scope of embodiment of the present invention technical scheme.

Claims (1)

1. a method for stand-up collar garment collar nest plate-making, it comprises right anterior plate model and the left front part model of stand-up collar clothes, and described right anterior plate model is identical with the method for platemaking of left front part model, it is characterized in that the method for platemaking of described right anterior plate model adopts following steps:

(1), determine Points And lines: line segment AB is shoulder line, and wherein A point is neck point, B point is shoulder point, and arc BC is armhole line, and arc AD is neck nest line, and line segment DK is front left front line;

(2), make a plate: on AB line, get A ＇ point, make the distance range of A A ＇ be 0.4 ~ 0.6cm, get B ＇ point at the extended line of AB, make BB ＇=AA ＇, DA camber line is got D ＇ point, make the distance range of DD ＇ be 0.2 ~ 0.3cm; Cross the camber line A ＇ F that A ＇ point intersects at neck nest line AD, cross B ＇ point and make the camber line B ＇ E crossing with armhole line BC, cross the camber line D ＇ H that D ＇ point intersects at front left front line DK.