CN115088899A - Method for making comfortable fit western style trousers capable of preventing side pocket from being empty - Google Patents

Method for making comfortable fit western style trousers capable of preventing side pocket from being empty Download PDF

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Publication number
CN115088899A
CN115088899A CN202210876427.2A CN202210876427A CN115088899A CN 115088899 A CN115088899 A CN 115088899A CN 202210876427 A CN202210876427 A CN 202210876427A CN 115088899 A CN115088899 A CN 115088899A
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China
Prior art keywords
line
crotch
taking
width
waist
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
黄益品
肖友烤
张燕
苏立车
周水仙
肖友国
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Zhejiang Giuseppe Garment Co ltd
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Zhejiang Giuseppe Garment Co ltd
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Priority to CN202210876427.2A priority Critical patent/CN115088899A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • A41D1/06Trousers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • A41D1/06Trousers
    • A41D1/10Means for maintaining the crease
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/20Pockets; Making or setting-in pockets
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/24Hems; Seams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H1/00Measuring aids or methods
    • A41H1/02Devices for taking measurements on the human body
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/01Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth using stencils
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H31/00Other aids for tailors
    • A41H31/005Thread-cutting or seam-ripping tools
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00Other methods, machines or appliances
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00Other methods, machines or appliances
    • A41H43/02Handling garment parts or blanks, e.g. feeding, piling, separating or reversing

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for manufacturing comfortable fit western style pants capable of preventing side pockets from being empty, and particularly relates to the technical field of clothes. According to the invention, the vertical crotch length and the proportion of the front and rear trousers pieces are modified when the frame lines are manufactured, and meanwhile, the rear structure lines and the front structure lines are improved and the subsequent improvement treatment of the waist, the side pocket and the like is carried out when the structure lines are manufactured, so that the manufactured western-style trousers are comfortable and fit, the side pocket can be well prevented from being empty, namely when a consumer wears the western-style trousers, the side pocket is attached to the suit, the flatness of the appearance is good, and the texture of the western-style trousers is greatly improved.

Description

Method for making comfortable fit western style trousers capable of preventing side pocket from being empty
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of clothing, in particular to a method for manufacturing comfortable fit western style pants capable of preventing side pockets from being empty.
Background
The western-style suit mainly refers to the trousers worn with the suit jacket, and the trousers are mainly worn in offices and social occasions, so that on the premise of requiring comfort and naturalness, the coordination with the body can be paid attention to in modeling, the loose quantity is moderate during cutting, and the feeling of peaceness and stability is given to people.
The consumer usually inserts the habit of side pocket in the course of wearing the western-style trousers, under the condition that the side pocket of the conventional fit western-style trousers is pulled for a long time, the side pocket is easy to deform and difficult to recover, which causes the wearing defect of the uncomfortable and unattractive wearing, therefore, the structure drawing technology of the comfortable fit western-style trousers for preventing the side pocket from being empty is provided.
Disclosure of Invention
Therefore, the invention provides a method for manufacturing comfortable fit western style pants for preventing side pockets from being empty, which aims to solve the problems in the background art.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention provides the following technical scheme: a comfortable fit western style trousers manufacturing method for preventing side pockets from being empty comprises an original drawing method, wherein the original drawing method comprises original drawing frame lines and original drawing structure lines, the original drawing frame lines comprise original back piece frame lines and front piece frame lines, the original drawing structure lines comprise original back piece structure lines and front piece structure lines, and the method further comprises a new drawing method, and the new drawing method is based on the original drawing method, and is used for making new drawing frame lines, new drawing structure lines and processing the waist and side pocket parts;
the manufacturing steps of the frame wire of the new drawing method are as follows:
s1, on the basis of the original drawing frame line, the rise length is modified to be 0.1 (the number is height) +0.1H (H is hip circumference);
s2, modifying the proportion of the front and the back trousers pieces, and widening the back hip circumference: h/4(H means hip circumference) +2, width of anterior hip circumference: h/4(H refers to hip circumference) -2, and the proportion of the front and the back trousers pieces is modified, the back hip circumference is wide: h/4(H means hip circumference) +2, width of anterior hip circumference: h/4(H means hip circumference) -2.
The manufacturing steps of the structure line of the new drawing method are as follows:
s1, the rear piece structure line manufacturing steps are as follows:
s11, straightening the thread, taking the back transverse crotch width as the middle, making a vertical line, and putting a flat line to the foot margin line;
s12, skimming at the side seam of the back transverse crotch, and taking a point of 1.2cm on the back transverse crotch line;
s13, the back middle gear is wide, KL/2(KL is the middle crotch) +2, taking a point of the back middle crotch width/2 from the two ends respectively by taking a running line as the middle;
s14, the width of the rear foot margin, SB/2(SB means the foot margin) +2, taking the straightening line as the middle, and taking the point of the rear foot margin width/2 from both ends;
s15, back crotch oblique line, taking the hip line as a starting point to make an oblique line with an included angle of 10 degrees with an upper flat line;
s16, taking a point with the length of W/4(W refers to the waist circumference) +1+ the province 4 on the upper flat line perpendicular to the back rail oblique line;
s17, sewing a back and outside line, connecting points of the waist opening, the hip circumference, the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making an arc line of the outside line;
s18, back internal sewing, wherein the transverse crotch is forward 0.6cm, and points connecting the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening are used for making internal sewing arcs;
s19, a posterior vault door line, a 0.8cm intersection point below the parallel transverse crotch line is connected with the back crotch oblique line to form the posterior vault door line.
S2, the manufacturing steps of the front sheet structure line are as follows:
s21, forming a vertical line with the front transverse crotch width as the middle, and putting a flat line to the foot opening line;
s22, skimming at the front transverse crotch side seam, and taking a point of 0.6cm on the front transverse crotch line;
s23, taking a point of front middle crotch width/2 from the middle of a straight line, wherein the front middle crotch width is KL/2(KL means middle crotch) -2;
s24, the width of the front foot opening, SB/2(SB refers to the foot opening) -2, taking the stile line as the middle, and taking the point of the width of the front foot opening/2 from the two ends respectively;
s25, drawing an oblique line with an included angle of 3 degrees to an upper flat line by taking a hip line as a starting point, and then drawing a left-falling line of 0.5 cm;
s26, taking a point of 0.5 in the front fly oblique line as a waist line starting point, and taking W/4(W is waist circumference) -1+ province 3 in the upper horizontal line;
s27, sewing front and outer sides, connecting points of the waist opening, the hip circumference, the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making an arc line of the outer side seam;
s28, sewing front inner stitches with the transverse crotch inward 0.6cm, connecting points of the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making inner stitch arcs;
s29, front vault door line, connecting the cross crotch and the front fly oblique line.
The processing steps of the waist and the side pocket parts are as follows:
s1, taking a rear trouser sample plate, merging the sample plate with 0.6cm at a position 9.0cm below the transverse crotch line, sewing 2.0cm below the waist opening of the rear outer side to 0.2cm of the grazing of the transverse crotch line, pulling 0.6cm from the transverse crotch line to the middle crotch line, and pulling 0.8cm of the inner seam.
S2, enabling the waist to be parallel to the lower part of the waist opening by 4.0cm, enabling the lower waist opening to be less than the upper waist opening by 0.5cm in total, combining the provinces, and enabling the upwarping of the waist to be 1.4cm flat compared with the original upwarping;
s3, transferring the front piece to the straight side bag, adding a door pushing process during sewing, straightening the arc lines of the door and the inner front piece, ironing the oblique straight line of the side bag into an arc line, fitting with the cloth liner of the front bag opening, and making the abdominal circumference loose measure.
Further, the manufacturing steps of the original back sheet frame line are as follows:
s1, drawing a flat line, and taking any horizontal straight line;
s2, drawing a trouser length line which is perpendicular to the upper flat line;
s3, drawing a straight crotch line which is parallel to the upper plain line and is 0.1 (height) and 0.1H (H is hip circumference) -1, and drawing a straight crotch line which is 0.1 and 0.1H-1;
s4, drawing a hip contour line H/4(H is hip circumference) +1 on a parallel straight crotch with the number 0.033 (the number is height) +0.033H (H is hip circumference);
s5, drawing a leg opening line which is perpendicular to the trouser length line to form a leg opening line;
s6, drawing a middle line which is parallel to the line No. 0.2 (height) -1 below the straight crotch line, and making the middle line;
s7, drawing the width of the posterior fornix and the width line parallel to the hip circumference, 0.11H (H is the hip circumference) and drawing the line to the foot mouth.
Further, the manufacturing steps of the front sheet frame line in the original drawing frame line are as follows:
s1, extending the upper flat line, hip line, crotch line, middle line and leg opening line of the back piece, and making the front trouser length line vertical to the upper flat line;
s2, a front hip contour line H/4(H is hip circumference) -1;
s3, anterior vault door line, parallel hip circumference width line, 0.05H (H is hip circumference), and drawing to the foot-mouth line.
Further, the manufacturing steps of the original back piece structure line are as follows:
s1, straightening the thread, taking the back transverse crotch width as the middle, making a vertical line, and putting a flat line to the foot margin line;
s2, skimming at the side seam of the back transverse crotch, and taking a point of 1.4cm on the back transverse crotch line;
s3, the back middle gear is wide, KL/2(KL is the middle crotch) +1, taking a point of the back middle crotch width/2 from the two ends respectively by taking a running line as the middle;
s4, the width of the rear foot margin, SB/2(SB means the foot margin) +1, taking the straightening line as the middle, and taking the point of the rear foot margin width/2 from both ends;
s5, back crotch oblique line, taking the hip line as a starting point to form an oblique line with an included angle of 13 degrees towards the upper flat line;
s6, taking a point with the length W/4(W is the waist circumference) + the province amount 3 on the upper flat line perpendicular to the back rail oblique line;
s7, sewing a back and outside line, connecting points of the waist opening, the hip circumference, the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making an arc line of the outside line;
s8, back internal sewing, wherein the transverse crotch is 0.7cm forward, and points connecting the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening are used for making internal sewing arcs;
and S9, taking 1.5cm from the transverse crotch point as a starting point on the back internal seam line, connecting the back crotch oblique line, and making the back gallery door line.
Further, the manufacturing steps of the front piece structure line in the original drawing structure line are as follows:
s1, forming a vertical line with the front transverse crotch width as the middle, and putting a flat line to the foot margin line;
s2, skimming at the front transverse crotch side seam, and taking a point of 0.7cm on the front transverse crotch line;
s3, the front middle gear is wide, KL/2(KL is the middle crotch) -1, taking a point of the front middle crotch width/2 from the middle of the stile line to two ends;
s4, the width of the front foot opening, SB/2(SB means the foot opening) -1, taking the straightening line as the middle, and taking the point of the width of the front foot opening/2 from both ends;
s5, forming an oblique line with an included angle of 5 degrees on an upper flat line by taking a hip line as a starting point;
s6, taking a point of 0.8 in the front fly oblique line as a waist line starting point, and taking W/4(W is waist circumference) + province amount 2 on the upper flat line;
s7, sewing front and outer sides, connecting points of the waist opening, the hip circumference, the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making an arc line of the outer side seam;
s8, sewing front inner stitches with the transverse crotch inward 0.7cm, connecting points of the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making inner stitch arcs;
s9, front vault door line, connect the crotch and the front fly oblique line.
Furthermore, the front piece and the back piece of the suit pants are made of wool and terylene in a blending ratio of 7: 3.
Furthermore, the side pockets of the western style trousers are made of nano silver ions.
Furthermore, the inner layer of the waist of the western style pants is made of nylon taffeta.
Further, the sizes of the height, the waistline, the hip circumference, the middle rail and the foot opening are measured through the measuring tape.
Furthermore, the western-style trousers are manufactured by the manufacturing method of the western-style trousers.
The invention has the following advantages:
the straight crotch length is modified and the proportion of the front trousers piece and the rear trousers piece is modified when the frame line is manufactured, meanwhile, the rear structure line and the front structure line are improved and the subsequent improvement treatment of the waist, the side bags and other parts is carried out when the structure line is manufactured.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a frame line of an original drawing method provided by the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of a structure line of an original manufacturing method provided by the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic frame line diagram of a novel patterning process provided by the present invention;
FIG. 4 is a schematic structural line diagram of a novel manufacturing method provided by the present invention;
FIG. 5 is a schematic view of a back pant sample provided by the present invention;
FIG. 6 is a schematic view of a waist panel provided by the present invention;
fig. 7 is a schematic diagram of a side pocket template provided by the present invention.
Detailed Description
The present invention is described in terms of particular embodiments, other advantages and features of the invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art from the following disclosure, and it is to be understood that the described embodiments are merely exemplary of the invention and that it is not intended to limit the invention to the particular embodiments disclosed. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Example 1:
as shown in figures 1 and 3, the invention provides a method for making comfortable fit western style pants capable of preventing side pockets from being empty, which comprises an original drawing method, wherein the original drawing method comprises original drawing frame lines, the original drawing frame lines comprise original back sheet frame lines and front sheet frame lines, and the method further comprises a new drawing method, and the new drawing method is based on the original drawing method to make new drawing frame lines;
in the number: 160/70A is an example, the height is 160cm, wherein the length of the trousers is 99cm, the waist length is 70cm, the hip circumference is 95cm, the middle part is 42cm, and the foot opening is 38 cm;
the original rear sheet frame line comprises the following manufacturing steps:
s1, drawing a flat line, and taking any horizontal straight line;
s2, drawing a trouser length line which is perpendicular to the upper flat line and is drawn into a back trouser length line with the length of 100 cm;
s3, drawing a straight crotch line, wherein the straight crotch line is parallel to No. 0.1 (height is used) below the upper plain line and 0.1H (hip circumference is used) to 1, and the length of the straight crotch line is 24.5cm from No. 0.1 + 0.1H-1;
s4, drawing a hip contour line H/4(H means hip circumference) +1 (H means hip circumference) + 24.8cm on a parallel straight crotch with the height of 0.033 (H means hip circumference) +0.033H (H means hip circumference) + 8.5 cm;
s5, drawing a leg opening line which is perpendicular to the trouser length line to form a leg opening line;
s6, drawing a middle line, wherein the middle line is parallel to the line 0.2 (the number is height) -1-31 cm below the straight crotch line and is drawn;
s7, drawing the width of the posterior fornix door, drawing a width line parallel to the hip circumference, drawing a line of the foot mouth with 0.11H (H is the hip circumference) of 10.45 cm.
The manufacturing steps of the front piece frame line in the original drawing frame line are as follows:
s1, extending the upper flat line, hip line, crotch line, middle line and leg opening line of the back piece, and making the front trouser line vertical to the upper flat line;
s2, a front hip surrounding line H/4(H refers to hip circumference) -1 ═ 22.8 cm;
s3, anterior vault door line, parallel hip circumference width line, 0.05H (H means hip circumference) 4.75cm, and drawing to the foot-mouth line.
The manufacturing steps of the frame wire of the new drawing method are as follows:
s1, on the basis of the original drawing frame line, the rise length is changed to be 0.1 (the number is height) +0.1H (H is hip circumference) ═ 25.5cm, and the rise length is to be more in line with the beauty and comfort of modern workplace women, so that the rise blocking condition caused by short rise when a consumer wears western-style trousers is eliminated;
s2, modifying the proportion of the front and the back trousers pieces, and widening the back hip circumference: h/4(H means hip circumference) +2 ═ 25.8cm, anterior hip circumference width: h/4(H means hip circumference) -2 ═ 21.8cm, while the front and back panels were modified in proportion, the back hip circumference was wide: h/4(H means hip circumference) +2 ═ 25.8cm, anterior hip circumference width: h/4(H is hip circumference) -2 is 21.8cm, the proportion of the front trouser piece and the rear trouser piece is redistributed, the front trouser piece is changed into a small one, and the rear trouser piece is increased, so that the beauty of the women in modern workplace is better met, and when a consumer wears the western-style trousers, the visual sense ensures that the activity amount is ensured, and the leg circumference is thin and the leg length is long.
The front piece and the rear piece of the suit pants are made of wool and polyester fibers in a blending mode, the mixing ratio of the wool to the polyester fibers is 7:3, the side pockets of the suit pants are made of nano silver ions, the radiation influence of a mobile phone placed in the side pockets by a user on the suit pants is reduced, the inner layer of the waist of the suit pants is made of nylon taffeta, the inner side of the waist is prevented from being worn and pilling, and the height, the waistline, the hip circumference, the middle gear and the leg opening size of the suit pants are measured through a measuring tape.
The invention also provides western-style trousers which are manufactured by the manufacturing method of the western-style trousers.
Example 2:
as shown in figures 2 and 4, the invention provides a method for manufacturing comfortable fit western style pants capable of preventing side pockets from being empty, which comprises an original drawing method, wherein the original drawing method also comprises original drawing structure lines, the original drawing structure lines comprise original back sheet structure lines and front sheet structure lines, and the method also comprises a new drawing method, and the new drawing method is based on the original drawing method and also formulates new drawing structure lines;
in the number: 160/70A is an example, the height of the body is 160cm, wherein the length of the trousers is 99cm, the waist length is 70cm, the hip circumference is 95cm, the middle gear is 42cm, and the foot opening is 38 cm;
the original back piece structure line comprises the following manufacturing steps:
s1, straightening the thread, taking the back transverse crotch width as the middle, making a vertical line, and putting a flat line to the foot margin line;
s2, skimming at the side seam of the back transverse crotch, and taking a point of 1.4cm on the back transverse crotch line;
s3, middle rear width, KL/2(KL means middle crotch) +1 being 22cm, taking the middle straight line as the middle, and taking the middle rear width/2 being 11cm from the two ends;
s4, the width of the rear foot margin, SB/2(SB means foot margin) +1 being 20cm, taking the straightening line as the middle, and taking the point of the rear foot margin width/2 being 10cm from both ends;
s5, a back crotch oblique line, which is an oblique line with an included angle of 13 degrees towards an upper flat line by taking a hip line as a starting point;
s6, taking a point with the length W/4(W is the waist circumference) + the province amount 3 being 20.5cm on the upper flat line perpendicular to the back rail oblique line;
s7, sewing a back and outside line, connecting points of the waist opening, the hip circumference, the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making an arc line of the outside line;
s8, back internal sewing, wherein the transverse crotch is forward 0.7cm, and points connecting the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening are used for making internal sewing arcs;
s9, taking 1.5cm from the transverse crotch point as the starting point on the back inner seam line, connecting the back crotch oblique line, and making the back gallery door line.
The manufacturing steps of the front piece structure line in the original drawing structure line are as follows:
s1, forming a vertical line with the front transverse crotch width as the middle, and putting a flat line to the foot margin line;
s2, skimming at the front transverse crotch side seam, and taking a point of 0.7cm on the front transverse crotch line;
s3, the front middle gear is wide, KL/2(KL means the crotch) -1 is 20cm, the point that the front middle crotch width/2 is 10cm is taken towards the two ends respectively by taking a straight line as the middle;
s4, the width of the front foot opening, wherein SB/2(SB means the foot opening) -1 is 18cm, and points with the width of the front foot opening/2 being 9cm are respectively taken from the two ends by taking a straightening line as the middle;
s5, forming an oblique line with an included angle of 5 degrees on an upper flat line by taking a hip line as a starting point;
s6, a front waistline, where a point of 0.8 from the oblique line of the front fly downward is a starting point of the front waistline, and a point W/4(W means waist circumference) + the dart 2 is 19.5cm on the upper flat line;
s7, sewing front and outer sides, connecting points of the waist opening, the hip circumference, the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making an arc line of the outer side seam;
s8, sewing front inner stitches with the transverse crotch inward 0.7cm, connecting points of the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making inner stitch arcs;
s9, front vault door line, connect the crotch and the front fly oblique line.
The manufacturing steps of the structure line of the new drawing method are as follows:
s1, the manufacturing steps of the rear piece structure line are as follows:
s11, straightening the thread, taking the back transverse crotch width as the middle, making a vertical line, and putting a flat line to the foot margin line;
s12, skimming at the side seam of the back transverse crotch, and taking a point of 1.2cm on the back transverse crotch line;
s13, middle rear width, KL/2(KL means middle crotch) +2 being 23cm, taking the middle straight line as the middle, and taking the middle rear width/2 being 11.5cm from the two ends;
s14, the width of the rear foot margin, SB/2(SB means foot margin) +2 being 21cm, taking the straightening line as the middle, and taking the point of the rear foot margin width/2 being 10.5cm from the two ends respectively;
s15, a back crotch oblique line, and an oblique line with an included angle of 10 degrees is formed by taking the hip line as a starting point and making an upward flat line;
s16, taking a point with the length W/4(W is the waist circumference) +1+ the province 4 being 22.5cm on the upper flat line perpendicular to the back rail oblique line;
s17, sewing the back and the outer side, connecting the points of the waist opening, the hip circumference, the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making an arc line of the outer side seam;
s18, back internal sewing, wherein the transverse crotch is 0.6cm forward, and points connecting the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening are used for making internal sewing arcs;
and S19, forming a posterior arch line, connecting a 0.8cm intersection point below the parallel transverse crotch line to the internal seam line, and forming the posterior arch line.
S2, the manufacturing steps of the front sheet structure line are as follows:
s21, forming a vertical line with the front transverse crotch width as the middle, and putting a flat line to the foot opening line;
s22, skimming at the front transverse crotch side seam, and taking a point of 0.6cm on the front transverse crotch line;
s23, front middle width, KL/2(KL means middle crotch) -2 is 19cm, taking the middle of the straight line, and taking the point of front middle crotch width/2 is 9.5cm from both ends;
s24, the width of the front foot opening, wherein SB/2(SB means the foot opening) -2 is 17cm, and points with the width of the front foot opening/2 being 8.5cm are respectively taken from the two ends by taking a straightening line as the middle;
s25, drawing an oblique line with an included angle of 3 degrees to an upper flat line by taking a hip line as a starting point, and then drawing a left-falling line of 0.5 cm;
s26, taking a point of 0.5 in the front fly oblique line downward as a waist line starting point, and taking W/4(W refers to waist circumference) -1+ the saving 3 as 19.5cm in the upper flat line;
s27, sewing front and outer sides, connecting points of the waist opening, the hip circumference, the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making an arc line of the outer side seam;
s28, sewing front inner stitches with the transverse crotch inward 0.6cm, connecting points of the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making inner stitch arcs;
s29, front vault door line, connecting the cross crotch and the front fly oblique line.
The front piece and the rear piece of the suit pants are made of wool and polyester fibers in a blending mode, the mixing ratio of the wool to the polyester fibers is 7:3, the side pockets of the suit pants are made of nano silver ions, the radiation influence of a mobile phone placed in the side pockets by a user on the suit pants is reduced, the inner layer of the waist of the suit pants is made of nylon taffeta, the inner side of the waist is prevented from being worn and pilling, and the height, the waistline, the hip circumference, the middle gear and the leg opening size of the suit pants are measured through a measuring tape.
The invention also provides western-style trousers which are manufactured by the manufacturing method of the western-style trousers.
Example 3:
as shown in figures 5-7, the invention provides a method for making comfortable fit western style pants capable of preventing side pockets from being empty, which comprises an original drawing method and a new drawing method, wherein the new drawing method is based on the original drawing method and is used for processing the waist and the side pockets;
in the number: 160/70A is an example, the height of the body is 160cm, wherein the length of the trousers is 99cm, the waist length is 70cm, the hip circumference is 95cm, the middle gear is 42cm, and the foot opening is 38 cm;
the processing steps of the waist and the side pocket parts are as follows:
s1, taking a rear trouser piece sample plate, merging the sample plate at a position 9.0cm below a transverse crotch line by 0.6cm, sewing a rear outer side seam 2.0cm below a waist opening to a crotch line draught by 0.2cm during sewing, pulling the crotch line to a middle crotch line by 0.6cm, pulling an inner seam by 0.8cm, and pulling the inner seam and the outer seam simultaneously to ensure that after a consumer wears the trousers, the trousers are more suitable for forward inclination of legs of a human body and clean legs without allowance during standing, and have no oppressive feeling during walking and leg lifting;
s2, 4.0cm below the parallel waist opening, the lower waist opening province is less than the upper waist opening total amount by 0.5cm, the provinces are combined, the raising of the waist head is changed to be 1.4cm more originally, the stress points are dispersed to the whole waist, the upper waist opening stress is avoided, the technical problem that the waist head of a consumer is uncomfortable when wearing the western-style trousers is alleviated, the whole waist surface rebounds to return to the original position better after the activity, as shown in figure 6: taking the back waist as an example, the front waist is operated in the same way;
s3, transferring the front piece to the straight side bag, adding a door pushing process in the sewing process, straightening the arc lines of the door and the inner front piece, ironing the oblique straight line of the side bag into an arc line, fitting with the cloth liner of the front bag opening, and making the abdominal circumference loose, so that the abdominal part of a consumer does not have the oppression feeling and conforms to the body shape of the human body better after wearing the front piece. The side pockets effectively improve the defects of deformation, arching and unattractive appearance of the side pockets when consumers wear the western style pants, and the satisfaction degree of the consumers is enhanced, as shown in figure 7.
The front piece and the rear piece of the suit pants are made of wool and polyester fibers in a blending mode, the mixing ratio of the wool to the polyester fibers is 7:3, the side pockets of the suit pants are made of nano silver ions, the radiation influence of a mobile phone placed in the side pockets by a user on the suit pants is reduced, the inner layer of the waist of the suit pants is made of nylon taffeta, the inner side of the waist is prevented from being worn and pilling, the texture of the suit pants is prevented from being influenced, and the height, the waistline, the hip circumference, the middle gear and the leg opening size are measured through a measuring tape.
The invention also provides western-style trousers which are manufactured by the manufacturing method of the western-style trousers.
Although the invention has been described in detail above with reference to a general description and specific examples, it will be apparent to one skilled in the art that modifications or improvements may be made thereto based on the invention. Accordingly, such modifications and improvements are intended to be within the scope of the invention as claimed.

Claims (10)

1. The utility model provides a comfortable fit western style trousers preparation method that prevents side pocket from getting empty, includes former drawing method, former drawing method includes former drawing frame line and former drawing structure line, and former drawing frame line includes former back piece frame line and anter frame line, and former drawing structure line includes former back piece structure line and anter structure line, its characterized in that: the novel drawing method is based on the original drawing method, and comprises the steps of preparing a novel drawing frame line, a novel drawing structure line and processing the waist and side pocket parts;
the manufacturing steps of the frame wire of the new drawing method are as follows:
s1, on the basis of the original drawing frame line, the rise length is changed to 0.1 (the number is height) +0.1H (H is hip circumference);
s2, modifying the proportion of the front and the back trousers pieces, and widening the back hip circumference: h/4(H means hip circumference) +2, width of anterior hip circumference: h/4(H refers to hip circumference) -2, and the proportion of the front and the back trousers pieces is modified, the back hip circumference is wide: h/4(H means hip circumference) +2, width of anterior hip circumference: h/4(H means hip circumference) -2.
The manufacturing steps of the structure line of the new drawing method are as follows:
s1, the manufacturing steps of the rear piece structure line are as follows:
s11, straightening the thread, taking the back transverse crotch width as the middle, making a vertical line, and putting a flat line to the foot margin line;
s12, skimming at the side seam of the back transverse crotch, and taking a point of 1.2cm on the back transverse crotch line;
s13, the back middle gear is wide, KL/2(KL is the middle crotch) +2, taking a point of the back middle crotch width/2 from the two ends respectively by taking a running line as the middle;
s14, the width of the rear foot margin, SB/2(SB means the foot margin) +2, taking the straightening line as the middle, and taking the point of the rear foot margin width/2 from both ends;
s15, a back crotch oblique line, and an oblique line with an included angle of 10 degrees is formed by taking the hip line as a starting point and making an upward flat line;
s16, taking a point with the length of W/4(W is the waist circumference) +1+ the province 4 on the upper flat line perpendicular to the back rail oblique line;
s17, sewing a back and outside line, connecting points of the waist opening, the hip circumference, the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making an arc line of the outside line;
s18, back internal sewing, wherein the transverse crotch is 0.6cm forward, and points connecting the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening are used for making internal sewing arcs;
s19, a posterior vault door line, a 0.8cm intersection point below the parallel transverse crotch line is connected with the back crotch oblique line to form the posterior vault door line.
S2, the manufacturing steps of the front sheet structure line are as follows:
s21, forming a vertical line with the front transverse crotch width as the middle, and putting a flat line to the foot opening line;
s22, skimming at the front transverse crotch side seam, and taking a point of 0.6cm on the front transverse crotch line;
s23, taking a point of front middle crotch width/2 from the middle of a straight line, wherein the front middle crotch width is KL/2(KL means middle crotch) -2;
s24, the width of the front foot opening, SB/2(SB refers to the foot opening) -2, taking the straightening line as the middle, and taking the point of the width of the front foot opening/2 from both ends;
s25, drawing an oblique line with an included angle of 3 degrees to an upper flat line by taking a hip line as a starting point, and then drawing a left-falling line of 0.5 cm;
s26, taking a point of 0.5 in the front fly oblique line as a waist line starting point, and taking W/4(W is waist circumference) -1+ province 3 in the upper horizontal line;
s27, sewing front and outer sides, connecting points of the waist opening, the hip circumference, the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making an arc line of the outer side seam;
s28, sewing front inner stitches with the transverse crotch inward 0.6cm, connecting points of the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making inner stitch arcs;
s29, front vault door line, connect the crotch and the front fly oblique line.
The processing steps of the waist and the side pocket parts are as follows:
s1, taking a rear trouser sample plate, merging the sample plate with 0.6cm at a position 9.0cm below the transverse crotch line, sewing 2.0cm below the waist opening of the rear outer side to 0.2cm of the grazing of the transverse crotch line, pulling 0.6cm from the transverse crotch line to the middle crotch line, and pulling 0.8cm of the inner seam.
S2, enabling the waist to be parallel to the lower part of the waist opening by 4.0cm, enabling the lower waist opening to be less than the upper waist opening by 0.5cm in total, combining the provinces, and enabling the upwarping of the waist to be 1.4cm flat compared with the original upwarping;
s3, transferring the front piece to the straight side bag, adding a door pushing process during sewing, straightening the arc lines of the door and the inner front piece, ironing the oblique straight line of the side bag into an arc line, fitting with the cloth liner of the front bag opening, and making the abdominal circumference loose measure.
2. A method of making comfortable fitted western-style trousers for preventing side pocket from being empty according to claim 1, wherein: the original rear sheet frame line comprises the following manufacturing steps:
s1, drawing a flat line, and taking any horizontal straight line;
s2, drawing a trouser length line which is perpendicular to the upper flat line;
s3, drawing a straight crotch line which is parallel to the upper plain line and is 0.1 (height) and 0.1H (H is hip circumference) -1, and drawing a straight crotch line which is 0.1 and 0.1H-1;
s4, drawing a hip contour line H/4(H is hip circumference) +1 on a parallel straight crotch with the number 0.033 (the number is height) +0.033H (H is hip circumference);
s5, drawing a leg opening line which is perpendicular to the trouser length line to form a leg opening line;
s6, drawing a middle line which is parallel to the line 0.2 (height) -1 under the straight crotch line, and drawing the middle line;
s7, drawing the width of the posterior fornix door, the width line parallel to the hip circumference, 0.11H (H is the hip circumference), and drawing to the line of the foot mouth.
3. A method of making comfortable fitted western style pants with side pockets prevented from emptying according to claim 1, wherein: the manufacturing steps of the front piece frame line in the original drawing frame line are as follows:
s1, extending the upper flat line, hip line, crotch line, middle line and leg opening line of the back piece, and making the front trouser length line vertical to the upper flat line;
s2, a front hip contour line H/4(H is hip circumference) -1;
s3, anterior vault door line, parallel hip circumference width line, 0.05H (H is hip circumference), and drawing to the foot-mouth line.
4. A method of making comfortable fitted western style pants with side pockets prevented from emptying according to claim 1, wherein: the original back sheet structure line comprises the following manufacturing steps:
s1, straightening the thread, taking the back transverse crotch width as the middle, making a vertical line, and putting a flat line to the foot margin line;
s2, performing back transverse crotch side seam skimming, and taking a point of 1.4cm on a back transverse crotch line;
s3, the back middle gear is wide, KL/2(KL means the middle crotch) +1, the point of the back middle crotch width/2 is taken towards the two ends respectively by taking a straight line as the middle;
s4, the width of the rear foot margin, SB/2(SB refers to the foot margin) +1, taking a straight line as the middle, and taking the point of the rear foot margin width/2 from the two ends respectively;
s5, a back crotch oblique line, which is an oblique line with an included angle of 13 degrees towards an upper flat line by taking a hip line as a starting point;
s6, taking a point of length W/4(W refers to waist circumference) + province amount 3 on an upper flat line perpendicular to a back rail oblique line on a back waist line;
s7, sewing a back and outside line, connecting points of the waist opening, the hip circumference, the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making an arc line of the outside line;
s8, back internal sewing, wherein the transverse crotch is 0.7cm forward, and points connecting the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening are used for making internal sewing arcs;
s9, taking 1.5cm from the transverse crotch point as the starting point on the back inner seam line, connecting the back crotch oblique line, and making the back gallery door line.
5. A method of making comfortable fitted western style pants with side pockets prevented from emptying according to claim 1, wherein: the manufacturing steps of the front piece structure line in the original drawing structure line are as follows:
s1, forming a vertical line with the front transverse crotch width as the middle, and putting a flat line to the foot margin line;
s2, performing front transverse crotch side seam skimming, and taking a point of 0.7cm on a front transverse crotch line;
s3, taking a point of front middle crotch width/2 from the middle of a straight line, wherein the front middle crotch width is KL/2(KL means middle crotch) -1;
s4, the width of the front foot opening, SB/2(SB means the foot opening) -1, taking the straightening line as the middle, and taking the point of the width of the front foot opening/2 from both ends;
s5, forming an oblique line with an included angle of 5 degrees on an upper flat line by taking a hip line as a starting point;
s6, taking a point of 0.8 in the front fly oblique line as a waist line starting point, and taking W/4(W is waist circumference) + province amount 2 on the upper flat line;
s7, sewing front and outer sides, connecting points of the waist opening, the hip circumference, the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making an arc line of the outer side seam;
s8, sewing front inner stitches with the transverse crotch inward 0.7cm, connecting points of the transverse crotch, the middle crotch and the foot opening, and making inner stitch arcs;
s9, front vault door line, connect the crotch and the front fly oblique line.
6. A method of making comfortable fitted western style pants with side pockets prevented from emptying according to claim 1, wherein: the front piece and the back piece of the suit pants are made of wool and terylene in a blending ratio of 7: 3.
7. A method of making comfortable fitted western style pants with side pockets prevented from emptying according to claim 1, wherein: the side pockets of the western style trousers are made of nano silver ions.
8. A method of making comfortable fitted western-style trousers for preventing side pocket from being empty according to claim 1, wherein: the inner layer of the waist of the western-style trousers is made of nylon taffeta.
9. A method of making comfortable fitted western style pants for preventing side pockets from emptying according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein: the height, waist, hip circumference, middle rail and foot opening sizes are measured by the measuring tape.
10. The utility model provides a prevent comfortable fit western-style trousers of side pocket sky which characterized in that: the western style pants produced using the method of making a western style pants according to any one of claims 1 to 9.
CN202210876427.2A 2022-07-25 2022-07-25 Method for making comfortable fit western style trousers capable of preventing side pocket from being empty Pending CN115088899A (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN115813050A (en) * 2022-10-24 2023-03-21 江苏红豆实业股份有限公司 Process for improving abdomen fit degree of casual pants

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN115813050A (en) * 2022-10-24 2023-03-21 江苏红豆实业股份有限公司 Process for improving abdomen fit degree of casual pants
CN115813050B (en) * 2022-10-24 2023-10-27 江苏红豆实业股份有限公司 Technology for improving abdomen fit degree of casual pants

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