CN110623353B - Golden ratio three-open-body women's dress type template, three-open-body women's dress and plate making method - Google Patents
Golden ratio three-open-body women's dress type template, three-open-body women's dress and plate making method Download PDFInfo
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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Abstract
The invention provides a golden ratio three-open-body women's dress template, a three-open-body women's dress and a plate making method, which are characterized in that golden ratio division is introduced into three-open-body women's dress structural design, coefficients in an experience matching formula are removed, the drawing waistline 34 equal division used for the women is taken to replace numerical conversion to set a position saving, an amount saving and a modeling design, the situation that each position saving is calculated and distributed along with the increase and decrease of the chest circumference is avoided, so that the teaching and learning of the clothing design is not changed along with the different specifications and the connection of the positions, the design is attached to the fact that the audience specifications are changed, each clothing piece is always scientific and orderly, no sample is lost, repeated modification is not needed, the sample clothing is repeatedly manufactured, the productivity is improved, and the cost is reduced.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of clothing design, in particular to a golden ratio three-open-body women's clothing template, a three-open-body women's clothing and a plate making method, which are mainly applicable to adult three-open-body women's clothing.
Background
Because of the high randomness, the clothing structural design people imagine that the technology content is not high, and the subjects of the clothing structural design are multiple, and the clothing structural design can also create the difference in milli-centimeter like creation, so that the designer cannot confirm how to calculate the standard from various to various, and the clothing structural design has no scientific definition depending on the natural law so far, thereby breeding a series of subjects.
For the worldwide difficult problem, the science and technology personnel '35274' has long been used for applying higher-order mathematical theory to try various inventions and creations under the assistance of a computer, and the tailoring property of the measuring and tailoring clothes is also contained, even if the tailoring is authorized, the characteristic jump does not exist in the prior art, and the observer only looks at the same time.
The clothing structural design is composed of a net body specification and a loose quantity. The net body specification is a national promulgated clothes size mark, and the structural design after the addition and release of the net body specification is free from the standard which can be followed by the trust of operators. Thus, no matter how many structural designers of the same style create finished ready-made clothes, the marking specifications are the same, but the structural sizes of the internal parts are different, the ratio of molecules to different denominators in an empirical formula is radically generated, the sizes of the parts arranged under the matching of the supplementary coefficients are against a scientific formation system, the number relation of the parts is out of constraint at random, the parts are in unequal ratio, and the connection of the parts of the model is inaccurate along with the different specifications. In this regard, the existence of anisometric is also well understood in the prior art by chinese patent grant publication No. CN 1132537C.
The method is characterized in that the method comprises the steps of firstly, the size concept is adopted, the other industries have the recognized national or industry specification standard, only the clothing exception is made, the country only issues the clean body specification, the added and relaxed amount is that a beginner, a professional edition teacher and a teaching teacher are empirically sized according to the style, and the random is larger, in the prior art, the finished clothing is longer or shorter, even if the clothing is repeatedly modified and repeatedly manufactured, only the unbalanced phenomenon of the fat and thin is corrected, and the shape is changed more and more poorly.
The investigation of authoritative specialists in China indicates that: university students learn the hard part sizing of the formula matched by experience, such as the proportional method, the basic method, the prototype, and the like, destroy the plate making technology of the shape and the structure, and in practice, the students are difficult to trust due to the trouble of repeated modification, and finally can adhere to less than 1% of the plate. (original year 2003 clothing times), so the current problem is still worry today, bringing a lot of inconvenience to study and production.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides a golden ratio three-open female clothing template, which can be directly called by a practitioner, is conveniently and quickly scaled to a reference frame diagram meeting the chest circumference specification by using clothing CAD software, and then completes the design of the wanted detailed structure modeling according to the style without repeated modification, thereby greatly improving the efficiency of the clothing structure design.
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
a three-open female dress template in golden proportion comprises a front template, a rear template and a sleeve template:
the width of the front drawing chest circumference of the front template and the width of the rear drawing chest circumference of the rear template are half of the drawing chest circumference, the short distance plus half of the long distance of the golden section of the width of the front drawing chest circumference is the front chest width, and the double of the short distance of the golden section of the width of the rear drawing chest circumference is the back width;
the length of the back waist section of the back piece template is twice as long as the width of the back, and the long section of the back waist section golden section is positioned on the upper back;
the back upper flat line of the back template is equal to the back drawing chest circumference in width, the back width is divided into back shoulder widths by 1/2 equal parts, the width of the back transverse open collar on the back upper flat line is 5 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the back straight open collar of the back template is 1 and 2/3 equal parts, the small shoulder width on the back upper flat line is 8.5 equal parts, and the equal parts are 1/34 of the drawing waistline width;
the transverse width of the vertical angle of the rear shoulder slope of the rear piece template is 8.5 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is 3 equal parts, and the outer shoulder end of the vertical angle releases 1/2 equal parts of the rear small shoulder solution position;
the front upper flat line of the front template is shifted upwards by 1/2 equal parts than the rear upper flat line, and the width of the front upper flat line is equal to the width of the front drawing chest circumference;
the width of the front transverse open collar on the front upper flat line is 5 and 2/3 equal parts, and the longitudinal height of the front straight open collar of the front piece template is 5.5 equal parts;
the transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclination of the front piece template is equal to 9 and 1/3, and the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is equal to 4;
the chest height point of the front template corresponds to the chest province amount of 2 equal parts upwards from the middle point of the drawing chest circumference;
the upper, middle and lower opposite rear side seams of the side piece are all moved downwards by 1/4 of the equal division height;
the perpendicular bisector of the back armhole arc line of the back piece template is divided into 2 equal parts, and the perpendicular bisector of the front armhole arc line of the front piece template is divided into 1 and 2/3 equal parts;
the waist of the front piece template is provided with a front middle waist and a front side waist, and the waist of the rear piece template is provided with a rear middle waist and a rear side waist, wherein the front side waist is adjacent to the rear side waist;
the distance from the waist pitch line of the front and back sample plates to the lower cycloid of the drawing is the length of the golden section with the length of the back waist pitch.
Further, the sleeve peak height of the sleeve plate template is the long section of the golden section of the connecting line of the end point of the rear upper flat line and the midpoint of the chest circumference of the drawing;
the width of the large sleeve root of the sleeve piece template is 15 equal parts, and the width of the small sleeve root is 9 equal parts; the waist joint line (FW) is downwards prolonged by 18 equal parts to set sleeve lengths, wherein the width of a large cuff is the width of a large sleeve root minus 3.5 equal parts, the front cuff of the large cuff is provided with an upturned distance of 2/3 equal parts, the rear cuff of the large cuff is provided with a falling distance of 2/3 equal parts, and the width of a small cuff of the sleeve piece template is 6 equal parts.
Preferably, the width of the front middle waist section is 1.5 equal parts, the width of the front side waist section is 1 equal part, the width of the rear middle waist section is 1 and 3/4 equal parts, and the width of the rear side waist section is 2.5 equal parts;
the rear center lower hem loss-saving amount is 1.5 equal parts, the rear side lower hem overlapping amount is 1/2 equal parts, the front side lower hem overlapping amount is 1.5 equal parts, the front center lower hem loss-saving amount is 1/3 equal parts, and the front center seam lower hem falls 1/3 equal parts.
Preferably, the total area of the front middle waist province, the front side waist province, the rear middle waist province, the rear side waist province and the residual block is divided by the total area of the front middle waist province, the front side waist province, the rear middle waist province and the residual block to generate beta amount by dividing the drawing chest circumference, and the cycloid under the drawing is shifted upwards by beta amount to obtain the length of the rear middle garment.
The three-open female clothing comprises a front clothing piece and a rear clothing piece which are symmetrically spliced, sleeve pieces are arranged at armholes of the front clothing piece and the rear clothing piece, and the front clothing piece, the rear clothing piece and the sleeve pieces are all made of the golden ratio three-open female clothing type template.
A three-open female board making method comprises the following steps:
1) Drawing a drawing chest circumference, namely a line segment 1, wherein one half of the drawing chest circumference is a front drawing chest circumference, the other half of the drawing chest circumference is a rear drawing chest circumference, the short distance plus one half of the long distance of the golden section of the width of the front drawing chest circumference is a front chest width, and the two times of the short distance of the golden section of the width of the rear drawing chest circumference is a back width;
2) Designing a half of the back waist length of the back template to be the back width, wherein the long section of the back waist length golden section is positioned on the upper back;
3) On the basis of the line segment 1, the distance between the long segment of the back waist section length golden section and the longitudinal height of the back straight open collar is set as a back upper flat line and is marked as a line segment 2;
the width of the line segment 2 is designed to be the width of the back drawing chest circumference, the back shoulder width on the line segment 2 is designed to be the back width plus 1/2 of the equal division, the width of the back transverse open collar on the line segment 2 is designed to be 5 equal divisions, the small shoulder width on the line segment 2 is designed to be 8.5 equal divisions, the longitudinal height of the back straight open collar is designed to be 1/2/3 of the equal division, and the equal division is 1/34 of the drawing waistline width;
4) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the inclined height of the rear shoulder at one end of the line segment 2 is designed to be 8.5 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 3 equal parts, and the solution position of the rear small shoulder at the outer shoulder end of the line segment is released to be 1/2 equal parts;
5) After the right end point of the rear line segment 2 moves upwards by 1/2 equal dividing distance, a front upper flat line with the same length as the front drawing chest circumference is arranged at the front sample plate and is marked as a line segment 3;
6) The width of the front transverse open collar on the line segment 3 is designed to be 5 and 2/3 equal parts, and the longitudinal height of the front straight open collar is designed to be 5.5 equal parts;
7) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclined height at one end of the line segment 3 is designed to be 9 and 1/3 equally divided, and the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 4 equally divided;
8) The perpendicular bisector of the back armhole arc line of the back piece template is divided into 2 equal parts, and the perpendicular bisector 1 of the front armhole arc line of the front piece template is divided into 2/3 equal parts;
9) The chest province corresponding to the chest high point of the front template is equally arranged upwards by 2 points at the midpoint of the chest circumference of the drawing;
10 On the basis of the line segment 1, setting the short distance of the golden section of the waist section length after downward movement as a waist section line, and recording as a line segment 4;
11 On the basis of the line segment 4, the distance of downward movement of the drawing hip height is set as a drawing hypocycloid and is marked as a line segment 5, wherein the height of the drawing hip height is a long segment of the rear waist section length golden section;
12 The upper, middle and lower opposite rear side seams of the side piece are all moved downwards by 1/4 of the equal division height;
13 A front middle waist and a front side waist are arranged at the waist of the front piece template, a rear middle waist and a rear side waist are arranged at the waist of the rear piece template, wherein the front side waist is adjacent to the rear side waist; and dividing half of the total area of the front middle waist province, the front side waist province, the rear middle waist province, the rear side waist province and the loss amount of the rest blocks by the drawing chest circumference to generate beta amount, and shifting the cycloid under the drawing upwards by beta amount to obtain the length of the rear middle garment.
Further, the method for manufacturing the sleeve sheet template comprises the following steps:
designing a long section of the golden section of the connection line between the end point of the rear upper flat line and the midpoint of the chest circumference of the drawing as the sleeve height of the sleeve sheet;
the width of the large sleeve root of the sleeve piece template is 15 equal parts, and the width of the small sleeve root is 9 equal parts; the waist joint line (FW) is downwards prolonged by 18 equal parts to set sleeve lengths, wherein the width of a large cuff is the width of a large sleeve root minus 3.5 equal parts, the front cuff of the large cuff is provided with an upturned distance of 2/3 equal parts, the rear cuff of the large cuff is provided with a falling distance of 2/3 equal parts, and the width of a small cuff of the sleeve piece template is 6 equal parts.
According to the technical scheme, the golden ratio division is firstly and comprehensively introduced into the structural design of the three-open female clothing, coefficients in an experience matching formula are removed, the drawing waistline 34 halving used at the golden ratio division is combined to replace numerical conversion to set the position saving, the quantity saving and the modeling design, the situation that the quantity saving is calculated and distributed every place along with the increase and decrease of chest circumference is avoided, the integral coordination of the equal ratio of the positions and the matching length of the circumferences after the quantity is added is created, and the correspondence of the positions and the circumferences is ensured, so that the teaching and learning of the clothing design is no longer the inaccuracy of the surprise along with the connection of the positions with different specifications, the design is always scientifically ordered without going away, the repeated modification is not needed, the sample clothing is repeatedly manufactured, the productivity is improved, and the cost is reduced.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a three-open female dress frame in accordance with the present invention;
FIG. 2 is an expanded plan view of FIG. 1;
FIG. 3 is an enlarged schematic illustration of the 1/3 aliquot, 1/4 aliquot of the drawings of FIGS. 2 and 5;
FIG. 4 is a block diagram of the area surplus block taken out of FIG. 2;
FIG. 5 is a layout of a garment body in a pattern template of the present invention;
FIG. 6 is a layout of two sleeves in a garment template of the present invention;
FIG. 7 is an enlarged schematic view of the 1/3 aliquot of FIG. 6;
fig. 8 is a full body effect diagram of a three-open female garment embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 9 is a diagram showing a model of a body design structure in the present embodiment;
fig. 10 is a diagram showing a two-piece sleeve design structure according to the present embodiment.
Detailed Description
A preferred embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.
As shown in fig. 2 and 5, the golden ratio three-open female suit style template includes a front panel template 100, a rear panel template 200, and a sleeve panel template 300. The chest of the clothing template is provided with a drawing chest circumference AD, the right side is a front drawing chest circumference, and the left side is a rear drawing chest circumference.
The front piece template comprises a drawing chest circumference front piece, a drawing waistline front piece and a lower hem front piece which extend downwards in sequence from the shoulder, and the rear piece template comprises a drawing chest circumference rear piece, a drawing waistline rear piece and a lower hem rear piece which extend downwards in sequence from the shoulder.
The width DB of the front drawing chest circumference of the front template and the width AB of the rear drawing chest circumference of the rear template are half of the drawing chest circumference AD, the short distance plus half of the long distance of the golden section of the width of the front drawing chest circumference is the front chest width DE, 1/3 equal division E with a narrow splitting door is added, and the width of the front chest width DE can be designed to be 12 equal divisions; the width of the back width AC may be designed to be 13 equal parts, or twice the short distance of the golden section of the width AB of the back chest.
The length of half of the back waist length FG of the back plate is back width AC, and the long section of the back waist length FG golden section is positioned on the upper back AG.
The back upper flat line HK of the back template is equal in width with the back drawing chest circumference, the back width AC is added with 1/2 of the width of the back shoulder width HJ, the width HI of the back transverse open collar on the back upper flat line HK is 5 equal parts, the longitudinal height GH of the back straight open collar of the back template is 1 and 2/3 equal parts, and the small shoulder width IJ on the back upper flat line HK is 8.5 equal parts, and the equal parts are 1/34 of the drawing waistline width.
The transverse width of the vertical angle of the rear shoulder inclined height JL of the rear piece template is 8.5 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is 3 equal parts, the outer shoulder end of the rear piece template is discharged for 1/2 equal parts of the rear small shoulder solution position, and a rear collar arc line is drawn.
The front upper flat line MN of the front piece template is shifted upwards by 1/2 equal part than the rear upper flat line HK, and the width of the front upper flat line MN is equal to the width of the front drawing chest circumference.
The width NO of the front transverse opening collar on the front upper flat line MN is 5 and 2/3 equal parts, and the longitudinal height NP of the front straight opening collar of the front piece template is 5.5 equal parts.
The transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclined height RS of the front piece template is 9 and 1/3 equally divided, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is 4 equally divided, the front small shoulder length is equal to the rear small shoulder length obtained by the side, and the upper arc of the middle part of the small shoulder is 1/6 equally divided T. The vertical angle arc distance of the front collar arc line is equal to 2.5 equal parts of Q.
The chest high point BP of the front template corresponds to the chest saving BU which is equal to 2 upwards from the middle point B of the chest circumference of the drawing.
The upper, middle and lower opposite rear side seams of the side piece are all moved downwards by 1/4 of the equal division height;
the perpendicular bisector of the back armhole arc line of the back piece template is divided into 2 equal parts, and the perpendicular bisector of the front armhole arc line of the front piece template is divided into 1 and 2/3 equal parts.
The distance from the waist pitch line FW of the front and back sample plates to the cycloid XY under the drawing is the length of the golden section of the back waist pitch length FG.
As shown in fig. 2 and 3, the waist of the front panel template is provided with front middle waist regions 28-29 and front side waist regions 26-27, and the waist of the rear panel template is provided with rear middle waist regions F-23 and rear side waist regions 24-25, wherein the front side waist regions are adjacent to the rear side waist regions.
The width of the front middle waist province is 1.5 equal parts, the width of the front side waist province is 1 equal part, the width of the rear middle waist province is 1 and 3/4 equal parts, and the width of the rear side waist province is 2.5 equal parts.
The rear center lower hem loss-saving amount X-32 is 1.5 equal parts, the rear side lower hem overlapping amount 33 is 1/2 equal parts, the front side lower hem overlapping amount 34 is 1.5 equal parts, the front center lower hem loss-saving amount 35 is 1/3 equal parts, and the front center seam falls down by 1/3 equal parts Y.
As shown in fig. 2 and 4, the clothing CAD software is used to remove the remaining pieces of clothing body loss (square centimeter) area, and a, b, c, d, e, f, g (the overlapping amount is subtracted in the later calculation) h, i, j are sequentially from the back.
The golden rectangle is applied to the structural design of the three-open female dress, and half of the total area of the loss-saving quantity of the reference picture is the content in the width, which is referred to as chest circumference; the other half refers to the length, i.e. the (posterior middle) garment length to be determined. Namely, the total area of the front middle waist province, the front side waist province, the rear middle waist province, the rear side waist province and the left block is divided by the drawing chest circumference AD to generate beta quantity, and the cycloid XY under the drawing is shifted upwards by beta quantity to obtain the length GZ of the rear middle garment, so the length of the rear middle garment is the height of the rear waist section, and the length section of the golden section of the height of the rear waist section is subtracted by 2 equal parts.
As shown in fig. 7 and 8, the sleeve height S3 of the sleeve panel template 300 is the length of the golden section of the line KB connecting the end point K of the back upper flat line HK and the midpoint B of the chest circumference.
Width A of large sleeve root of sleeve piece template 1 W 1 15 equal parts, and the width of the small sleeve root is 9 equal parts; the waist joint line (FW) is downwards prolonged by 18 equally-divided sleeve lengths S 1 L 1 Wherein the width C of the big cuff 1 W 2 The width of the large sleeve root is reduced by 3.5 equal parts, and the front sleeve opening of the large sleeve opening is provided with an upturned W with the distance of 2/3 equal parts 2 The rear cuff of the big cuff is provided with a drop C with a distance of 2/3 equal parts 1 The width of the small cuffs of the sleeve panel sample plate is equal to 6 parts.
The large sleeve arc line is arranged according to the equal division of the rear sleeve fertilizer and the front sleeve S4, and the small sleeve arc line passes through 1/3 of the equal division B.
As shown in fig. 1 and 10, the present invention provides a three-open female garment, comprising a front panel 101, a rear panel 201 and side panels 301 which are symmetrically spliced, wherein sleeve panels are arranged at armholes of the front panel and the rear panel, and the sleeve panels comprise a spliced large sleeve panel 401 and a spliced small sleeve panel 402. The front garment piece, the rear garment piece and the sleeve piece are all made of the golden ratio three-open female garment type template.
The invention also provides a method for manufacturing the three-open female garment, which comprises the following steps:
1) Drawing a drawing chest circumference AD (chest circumference 88 cm+8 cm of looseness and 4cm of loss saving), and recording as a line segment 1, wherein one half of the drawing chest circumference is a front drawing chest circumference, the other half is a rear drawing chest circumference, the short distance plus one half of the long distance of the width DB golden section of the front drawing chest circumference is a front chest width DE, and the two times of the short distance of the width AB golden section of the rear drawing chest circumference is a back width AC;
2) The length of half of the back waist pitch length FG of the back piece template is designed to be the back width AC, wherein the long section of the back waist pitch length FG golden section is positioned on the upper back AG;
3) On the basis of the line segment 1, the distance between the long segment of the back waist section length FG golden section and the longitudinal height GH of the back straight open collar is set as a back upper flat line HK and is recorded as a line segment 2;
the width of the line segment 2 is designed to be the width of the back drawing chest circumference, the width HJ of the back shoulder width on the line segment 2 is designed to be the back width AC plus 1/2 equal parts, the width HI of the back transverse open collar on the line segment 2 is designed to be 5 equal parts, the small shoulder width IJ on the line segment 2 is designed to be 8.5 equal parts, the longitudinal height GH of the back straight open collar is designed to be 1/2/3 equal parts, and the equal parts are 1/34 of the drawing waistline width;
4) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the back shoulder inclined height KL at one end of the line segment 2 is designed to be 9 and 1/3 equally divided, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 4 equally divided, and the small shoulder solution position is 1/2 equally divided after the outer shoulder end is released;
5) After the right end point K of the rear line segment 2 moves upwards by 1/2 equal dividing distance, a front upper flat line MN with the same length as the front drawing chest circumference is arranged at the front sample plate and is marked as a line segment 3;
6) The width NO of the front transverse open collar on the line segment 3 is designed to be 5 and 2/3 equal parts, and the longitudinal height NP of the front straight open collar is designed to be 5.5 equal parts;
7) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclined height RS at one end of the line segment 3 is designed to be 9 and 1/3 equally divided, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 4 equally divided, the front small shoulder length is equal to the rear small shoulder length obtained by the side, and the upper arc of the middle part of the small shoulder is 1/6 equally divided T;
8) The perpendicular bisector of the back armhole arc line of the back piece template is divided into 2 equal parts, and the perpendicular bisector of the front armhole arc line of the front piece template is divided into 1 and 2/3 equal parts;
9) 2 chest saving BU corresponding to the chest high point BP of the front template is arranged upwards at the middle point B of the drawing chest circumference in an equal division way;
10 On the basis of the line segment 1, the short distance of the golden section of the waist pitch length FG after downward movement is set as a waist pitch line FW and is marked as a line segment 4;
11 On the basis of the line segment 4, the distance of downward moving drawing hip height FX is set as a cycloid XY under drawing and is marked as a line segment 5, wherein the drawing hip height FX is a long segment of the rear waist pitch length FG golden section;
12 The upper, middle and lower opposite rear side seams of the side piece are all moved downwards by 1/4 of the equal division height;
13 A front middle waist and a front side waist are arranged at the waist of the front piece template, a rear middle waist and a rear side waist are arranged at the waist of the rear piece template, wherein the front side waist is adjacent to the rear side waist; and dividing half of the total area of the front middle waist province, the front side waist province, the rear middle waist province, the rear side waist province and the loss amount of the residual blocks by the drawing chest circumference AD to generate beta amount, and shifting the cycloid XY upwards by beta amount under the drawing to obtain the length GZ of the rear middle garment.
The method for manufacturing the sleeve sheet comprises the following specific steps:
the sleeve piece comprises a spliced large sleeve piece 401 and a spliced small sleeve piece 402;
designing a long section of the golden section of a connecting line KB of an end point K of a rear upper flat line HK and a middle point B of a drawing chest circumference as a sleeve peak height S2 of a sleeve sheet;
width A of large sleeve root of sleeve piece template 1 W 1 15 equal parts, and the width of the small sleeve root is 9 equal parts; the waist joint line (FW) is downwards prolonged by 18 equally-divided sleeve lengths S 1 L 1 Wherein the width C of the big cuff 1 W 2 The width of the large sleeve root is reduced by 3.5 equal parts, and the front sleeve opening of the large sleeve opening is provided with an upturned W with the distance of 2/3 equal parts 2 The rear cuff of the big cuff is provided with a drop C with a distance of 2/3 equal parts 1 The width of the small cuffs of the sleeve panel sample plate is equal to 6 parts.
Above-mentioned woman clothing size type national standard "A" its net chest circumference 88cm + pine 8cm + loss 4cm, net waistline 69 cm + pine 11 cm, shoulder width 39.6cm, back midcoat length 58.5cm, sleeve length 57.2cm, cuff 26.4cm.
Then the model is designed easily and freely depending on the reference diagram, and an ideal new model is changed, and the reference diagram is shown in figures 9-10.
1. No collar exists. The rear transverse open collar is opened by 1 equal part (1.5 cm), and then the straight open collar naturally falls down by 1/3 equal part to keep the straight open collar depth of the reference picture; the front transverse opening collar is 1 equal part (1.5 cm) in width, the front straight opening collar is 1.5 equal part (2.2 cm) in depth, and the front transverse opening collar is drawn along the front and rear collar arcs.
2. Asymmetric right fly and three groups of six buckles. 1 part (1.5 cm) of left side of lower front collar, 6 parts (8.8 cm) of left side of front chest, 4 parts (5.9 cm) of left side of front waist, 2 parts (2.9 cm) of left side of front waist, 1.5 parts (2.2 cm) of left side of front lower hem and three groups of six buttons are arranged in sequence.
3. Bag position and lower bag (cover). Front bag position waist section lower 2 equal parts (2.9 cm), bag cover 4.5 equal parts (6.6 cm) from front central line, bag length 9 equal parts (13.2 cm), width 3.5 equal parts (5.2 cm), double-bag tooth 2/3 equal parts (1 cm), and the bag diagonal line is parallel to the bottom line.
4. Two sleeve vent vents: the length of the vent is 6 equal parts (8.8 cm), the width of the vent is 2 equal parts (2.9 cm), and the left sleeve and the right sleeve are respectively nailed with a button.
5. And (5) sporadic raw auxiliary materials. The dried noodles, the bag strips and the like are arranged conventionally.
The present example effect chart is suitable for the reference chart of the invention, the actual chest circumference is 96cm, the shoulder width is 39.6cm, the length of the back midcoat is 58 cm-1/3 equal (0.5 cm), the sleeve length is 57.2cm, and the cuffs are 26.4cm.
The chest circumference value of the invention realizes the overall isocratic of the structural design, does not memorize the basic data size, and equally designs the novel modeling key points by using the chest circumference value. The female clothing size-type national standard is followed, the data distribution of the provinces and the provinces is changed totally and is troublesome to the utmost because of different specifications, and the provinces are used for equally distributing each province to eliminate the memory data size. How much is the three-open lady garment length for known chest circumference matches? The image-text combination of the invention gives out scientific conclusion.
In order to meet the natural law, namely the golden ratio, and solve the specific technical problems of clothing industry in human production and life, the application patent of the golden ratio is taught to process integrity, scientificity is shown, step contents are greatly increased, related drawings are on A4 paper, the parts of the parts need to be partially enlarged, in practice, the clothing structural design drawing is 1 to 1, and manual or clothing CAD software drawing is adopted, so that the theory of the partially enlarged drawing is avoided. The figure 5 and figure 7 (which are marked by the long section, the short section and the equal division marks of golden section instead of the size of the part and the text description) are directly adjusted to the clinic, the clothing CAD software is conveniently and quickly used for zooming into a reference frame diagram meeting the chest circumference specification, and then the design of the desired detailed structural model is completed according to the style.
People recognize that the European and American persons are high and large in golden ratio, the golden ratio is not limited by factors such as age, ethnicity and region, small and exquisite small and small persons and large persons and medium persons conform to the golden ratio, the people taking care of the shapes and the shapes of the eyes include the majority of children approaching the golden ratio, and the people are provided with multi-grade size codes corresponding. The characteristic of the golden proportion of the human body is given to the nature, and the nature is naturally restricted by a plurality of factors in the life and growth process, so that sporadic specialization appears, and the nature is also designed in a changing way on the basis of the model without symptoms. Industrial mass production is a model which is required to be standard in points, lines and surfaces, and most of the defects of the body are covered by detailed design and setting off of clothing accessories, so that the dressing of most people is satisfied.
The technical scheme of the invention is not only used for normal bodies, but also is applicable to special bodies such as Y type, B type, C type, D type and the like, namely the percentage change data between the pushing-out of the chest circumference, waistline, clothing length and the like of the reference graph, and has infinite scientific application potential. The clothing is cut to measure, fat people are contraindicated to make very fat, thin people are made very thin, so that the constant amount seems to be possible from the technical point of view, and natural (artistic) aesthetic factors are lacked.
The above-described embodiments are merely illustrative of the preferred embodiments of the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, and various modifications and improvements made by those skilled in the art to the technical solution of the present invention should fall within the scope of protection defined by the claims of the present invention without departing from the spirit of the present invention.
Claims (6)
1. A golden ratio three-open female garment template, comprising a front template (100), a back template (200) and a sleeve template (300), characterized in that:
the width (DB) of the front drawing chest circumference of the front template and the width (AB) of the rear drawing chest circumference of the rear template are half of the drawing chest circumference (AD), the short distance plus half of the long distance of the golden section of the width of the front drawing chest circumference is the front chest width (DE), and the double of the short distance of the golden section of the width (AB) of the rear drawing chest circumference is the back width (AC);
the length (FG) of the back waist section of the back plate is twice the width (AC) of the back, and the long section of the golden section of the length (FG) of the back waist section is positioned on the upper back (AG);
the rear upper flat line (HK) of the rear template is equal to the rear drawing chest circumference in width, the rear shoulder width (HJ) is divided into 1/2 equal parts by the rear back width (AC), the width (HI) of the rear transverse open collar on the rear upper flat line (HK) is divided into 5 equal parts, the longitudinal height (GH) of the rear straight open collar of the rear template is 1 and 2/3 equal parts, and the small shoulder width (IJ) on the rear upper flat line (HK) is divided into 8.5 equal parts;
the transverse width of the vertical angle of the rear shoulder inclined height (JL) of the rear piece template is 8.5 equal parts, the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is 3 equal parts, and the outer shoulder end of the vertical angle releases 1/2 equal parts of the rear small shoulder solution position;
the front upper flat line (MN) of the front piece template is shifted upwards by 1/2 equal parts than the rear upper flat line (HK), and the width of the front upper flat line (MN) is equal to the width of the front drawing chest circumference;
the width (NO) of the front transverse opening collar on the front upper flat line (MN) is 5 and 2/3 equal parts, and the longitudinal height (NP) of the front straight opening collar of the front piece template is 5.5 equal parts;
the transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclined height (RS) of the front piece template is equal to 9 and 1/3, and the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is equal to 4;
the chest high point (BP) of the front template corresponds to the chest circumference midpoint (B) of the drawing and is divided into 2 equal chest provinces (BU) upwards;
the perpendicular bisector of the back armhole arc line of the back piece template is divided into 2 equal parts, and the perpendicular bisector of the front armhole arc line of the front piece template is divided into 1 and 2/3 equal parts;
the waist of the front piece template is provided with a front middle waist and a front side waist, and the waist of the rear piece template is provided with a rear middle waist and a rear side waist, wherein the front side waist is adjacent to the rear side waist;
the distance from the waist pitch line (FW) of the front and back sample plates to the hypocycloid (XY) is the length of the golden section of the back waist pitch length (FG);
the aliquots were separated into 1/34 of the drawing waist width.
2. A golden ratio three-open-body female wear style template as claimed in claim 1 wherein:
the sleeve peak height (S3) of the sleeve sheet template is the long section of the golden section of the connecting line (KB) of the endpoint (K) of the rear upper flat line (HK) and the middle point (B) of the chest circumference of the drawing;
the width (A) of the large sleeve root of the sleeve plate sample plate 1 W 1 ) 15 equal parts, and the width of the small sleeve root is 9 equal parts; the waist section line (FW) is extended downwards by 18 equally-divided sleeve lengths (S 1 L 1 ) Wherein the width of the big cuff (C 1 W 2 ) The width of the big cuff is reduced by 3.5 equal parts, and the front cuff of the big cuff is provided with a distance of 2/3Equal part of the upwarp (W 2 ) The rear cuff of the big cuff is provided with a drop (C) of 2/3 of an equal part 1 ) The width of the small cuffs of the sleeve piece template is equal to 6.
3. A golden ratio three-open-body female wear style board according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein:
and dividing half of the total area of the front middle waist province, the front side waist province, the rear middle waist province, the rear side waist province and the loss amount of the residual blocks by the drawing chest circumference (AD) to generate beta amount, and translating the cycloid (XY) under the drawing upwards by beta amount to obtain the rear middle coat length (GZ).
4. A three-open female garment comprising a front garment piece (101) and a rear garment piece (201) which are symmetrically spliced, wherein sleeve pieces are arranged at armholes of the front garment piece and the rear garment piece, and the three-open female garment is characterized in that the front garment piece, the rear garment piece and the sleeve pieces are made of the golden ratio three-open female garment type template according to any one of claims 1-3.
5. The method for manufacturing the three-open female garment board is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
1) Drawing a drawing chest circumference (AD), which is marked as a line segment 1, wherein one half of the drawing chest circumference is the width (DB) of a front drawing chest circumference, the other half is the width (AB) of a rear drawing chest circumference, the short distance plus the half of the long distance of the golden section of the width of the front drawing chest circumference is the front chest width (DE), and the two times of the short distance of the golden section of the width (AB) of the rear drawing chest circumference is the back width (AC);
2) Designing a half of a back waist length (FG) of the back panel to be a back width (AC), wherein a long section of the golden section of the back waist length (FG) is located at the upper back (AG);
3) On the basis of the line segment 1, the distance of the long segment of the back waist length (FG) golden section and the longitudinal height (GH) of the back straight open collar is set as a back upper flat line (HK) and is recorded as a line segment 2;
designing the width of the line segment 2 as the width of the back drawing chest circumference, designing the back shoulder width (HJ) on the line segment 2 as the back width (AC) plus 1/2 equal divisions, designing the width (HI) of the back transverse open collar on the line segment 2 as 5 equal divisions, designing the small shoulder width (IJ) on the line segment 2 as 8.5 equal divisions, and designing the longitudinal height (GH) of the back straight open collar as 1 and 2/3 equal divisions;
4) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the back shoulder inclined height (JL) at one end of the line segment 2 is designed to be 8.5 equal parts, and the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 3 equal parts;
5) After the right end point (K) of the rear line segment 2 moves upwards by 1/2 equal dividing distance, a front upper flat line (MN) with equal length with the front drawing chest circumference is arranged at the front sample plate and is marked as a line segment 3;
6) The width (NO) of the front transverse opening collar on the line segment 3 is designed to be 5 and 2/3 equal parts, and the longitudinal height (NP) of the front straight opening collar is designed to be 5.5 equal parts;
7) The transverse width of the vertical angle of the front shoulder inclined height (RS) at one end of the line segment 3 is designed to be 9 and 1/3 equally divided, and the longitudinal height of the vertical angle is designed to be 4 equally divided;
8) The perpendicular bisector of the back armhole arc line of the back piece template is divided into 2 equal parts, and the perpendicular bisector of the front armhole arc line of the front piece template is divided into 1 and 2/3 equal parts;
9) A chest saving amount (BU) corresponding to a chest high point (BP) of the front template is equally arranged upwards by 2 points at the middle point (B) of the drawing chest circumference;
10 On the basis of the line segment 1, the short distance of the golden section of the waist pitch length (FG) after downward movement is set as a waist pitch line (FW), and is marked as a line segment 4;
11 On the basis of the line segment 4, the distance of downward movement of the drawing hip height (FX) is set as a drawing hypocycloid (XY), denoted as a line segment 5, wherein the height of the drawing hip height (FX) is the long segment of the rear waist pitch length (FG) golden section;
12 A front middle waist and a front side waist are arranged at the waist of the front piece template, a rear middle waist and a rear side waist are arranged at the waist of the rear piece template, wherein the front side waist is adjacent to the rear side waist; dividing half of the total area of the loss-saving amounts of the front middle waist province, the front side waist province, the rear middle waist province, the rear side waist province and the residual blocks by the drawing chest circumference (AD) to generate a beta amount, and upwards translating the cycloid (XY) under the drawing by the beta amount to obtain a rear middle coat length (GZ);
the aliquots were separated into 1/34 of the drawing waist width.
6. A method of manufacturing a three-piece female garment panel as in claim 5, further comprising the step of:
designing a long section of the golden section of a connecting line (KB) of an end point (K) of the rear upper flat line (HK) and a middle point (B) of the drawing chest as a sleeve peak height (S3) of a sleeve sheet;
the width (A) of the large sleeve root of the sleeve plate sample plate 1 W 1 ) 15 equal parts, and the width of the small sleeve root is 9 equal parts; the waist section line (FW) is extended downwards by 18 equally-divided sleeve lengths (S 1 L 1 ) Wherein the width of the big cuff (C 1 W 2 ) The width of the big cuff is reduced by 3.5 equal parts, and the front cuff of the big cuff is provided with an upturned (W) with a distance of 2/3 equal parts 2 ) The rear cuff of the big cuff is provided with a drop (C) of 2/3 of an equal part 1 ) The width of the small cuffs of the sleeve piece template is equal to 6.
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| CN201811327816 | 2018-11-06 | ||
| CN201811327816X | 2018-11-06 |
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| CN201911077330.XA Active CN110623353B (en) | 2018-11-06 | 2019-11-06 | Golden ratio three-open-body women's dress type template, three-open-body women's dress and plate making method |
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| CN211558933U (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2020-09-25 | 许宗保 | Golden ratio three-opening women's dress clothes type sample plate and three-opening women's dress |
| CN113057391B (en) * | 2021-03-31 | 2023-01-24 | 黎明职业大学 | Method for manufacturing Huoding-Po clothing |
| CN113519953A (en) * | 2021-06-21 | 2021-10-22 | 厦门理工学院 | Clothing structure plate making method |
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| CN1312040A (en) * | 2001-03-16 | 2001-09-12 | 王益正 | Coat template making process |
| CN101485500A (en) * | 2009-01-19 | 2009-07-22 | 吴厚林 | Structure design method for suit-dress pattern |
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| CN211558933U (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2020-09-25 | 许宗保 | Golden ratio three-opening women's dress clothes type sample plate and three-opening women's dress |
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2019
- 2019-11-06 CN CN201921903602.2U patent/CN211558933U/en not_active Withdrawn - After Issue
- 2019-11-06 CN CN201911077330.XA patent/CN110623353B/en active Active
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| CN1312040A (en) * | 2001-03-16 | 2001-09-12 | 王益正 | Coat template making process |
| CN101485500A (en) * | 2009-01-19 | 2009-07-22 | 吴厚林 | Structure design method for suit-dress pattern |
| JP5403724B1 (en) * | 2013-08-06 | 2014-01-29 | 渥子 柏原 | Correction method for the prototype for upper garment |
| JP2015120985A (en) * | 2013-12-20 | 2015-07-02 | 株式会社イプシロン・ジャパン | Suit pattern and measuring device for the same |
| CN203801766U (en) * | 2014-04-17 | 2014-09-03 | 北京威克多制衣中心 | Slim-fitting man suit |
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| CN211558933U (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2020-09-25 | 许宗保 | Golden ratio three-opening women's dress clothes type sample plate and three-opening women's dress |
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| CN211558933U (en) | 2020-09-25 |
| CN110623353A (en) | 2019-12-31 |
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